I just wanna thank you for the time you put into making these videos! I've worked on many classics but your videos help me on my 69 chevelle I just picked up. Thank you
Hey I want to thank you for taking the time and showing every body how it's done. I had damaged my new steering pump housing, so I swapped it out with the old one. many thanks and god bless.
Many good comments below about your rebuild of your power steering pump, including knowing the common names of the components. I am sure by now someone below has mentioned the item you could not identify is the "pressure relief valve". All sanding and filing of parts should be done and then once again a liquid bath, air dry and wipe down of parts should be performed before reassembly. The smallest of abrasive grit from the sand paper or the filing of the bushing can cause early failure of seals, rotary vanes (the other part you did not know) and or their mating surfaces. I personally would not have supported the reservoir housing on one contact point of the socket as this creates a very localized point of pressure which could have bent the housing. I understand that in the factory they have presses and jigs to prevent this type of damage, but one does as well as one can in a home shop. Other than these few small procedural errors your video was informative.
The part where you said "this is where I think most people throw in the towell" is where I was yesterday. Thanks to your video I think mine will work now. I had to file the new bushing a little because isn't was a little tight. Also I haven't found a single video of anyone working on my exact pump,.. after you take off the big retainer clip to get to the inside, and remove that backing plate that was holding the clip, that's where mine is a little different. Everyone has one big spring in the middle and I have 2 little springs that sit right over the dowel pins.. don't know why mine is different but I would really like to know. And you can tell by the outside because that backing plate on mine is just a dome and every one else's has a circle in the center for their one big center spring to sit in.
Just wanted to give you a pat on the back. This is the most helpful video rebuilding this pump. For those doing this, One thing to pay close attention to is how the pressure regulator goes in. It goes spring then valve. Ask me how I know. 😂
Great video! Plain and simple. Yes, it's less work to buy a rebuilt but this is great to know if you like working on your own classic car. Thanks again
Been many years, at least 20 since I did one of these. Good video to catch up. Mine goes to a 60 Pontiac full size. They are all pretty much the same. I would however recommend removing the pulley key way and not reinstalling it until after the shaft is pushed through the new seal. Much less risk of damage on the seal.
Great video Chris This helped me with reseal and bush replacement on my Saginaw power steering pump. Note: Ensure the arrow on the vane pump housing is correct with shaft rotation. Cheers
This message is mainly for other viewers...Make sure to consider cross contamination of fluids, when pre- lubricating DO NOT use oil this could be catastrophic to Hydroboost brake booster if equipped, use power steering fluid to lubricate, also DO NOT use wheel bearing grease inside or on any seals this can cause a deterioration of the rubber components, a safe product would be a thin coating of dielectric silicone grease, but most often I only reassemble lubricating all parts in power steering fluid and only use dielectric grease when reinstalling the reservoir when it is stubborn going back on to the pump... make sure to use your emery cloth or machine paper in a concentric direction with the part and cross hatching can cause leaks...always remember the more clean and sterile your assembly is the longer the pump will last and the more dependable it will be... Also I do not recommend buying a remanufacturered pump quality control on those units are horrible and more often fail than rebuilding yourself... yes lifetime warranty also now stands for you'll be replacing often 😂 great video otherwise... I loved the fact that your camera was not all over the place 👍
More constructive criticism... Don't put the output shaft seal in until the unit is fully assembled. Yes, you will need a hollow implement that will straddle the shaft while you drive the seal in place-but this is the CORRECT way to do it. Never shove the shaft through the seal from the back side like you are doing in the video. You can easily dislodge the garter spring in the spring, and/or CUT the sealing surface of the seal with those "sharp edges" you talk about. Seal goes in after shaft installation. Also, as you seat the seal onto the shaft-slowly twist the seal as you slide it down onto the shaft to avoid cutting it. Also, you need to polish the shaft to remove all rust, and scale or corrosion before putting it back into service. If there is a groove worn where the old seal was riding check to see if it will catch a fingernail. A visible ring is not a problem. A ring groove cut into the shaft means the shaft is no longer serviceable, and you should probably buy a new pump, or find a good shaft, or buy one of the seals that comes with a sleeve that goes over the shaft first. Like the other guy said-sanding, and then just blowing with compressed air is NOT good enough for cleanliness. After sanding-use brake clean, or other solvent, then blow it dry. Use a white napkin to run across all surfaces to check for clean. If the napkin comes up with crud or dirt on it-you are not done cleaning. Great video other than the minor stuff we discussed.
I have a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 and my power steering is leaking pretty bad. We think we traced the leak to that big 1'' nut that goes in the back of the pump housing. I'm glad we didn't try and tighten it more or we could have made it worse. Someone else maybe put it on too tight or else the o rings inside might be squashed. I guess I'll just get another whole unit and be done with it.
Do you know if a 2005 GMC Yukon power steering pump is rebuildable? It is not leaking, it simply stopped working good at low RPMs (below 800rpms, like at stop lights. It works fine while driving at rpms above idle/800rpm. Thanks!
My pump looks exactly the same as that one but it has two steel lines out the back. Mines is on a '76 c30 454. Will that rebuild kit work for it also ?
Does it hurt anything if the shaft moves in and out just a tiny bit, small play in and out, or should the shaft not budge? Or is it normal to have a small amount of in an out play? Thanks......
I learned much from this video, thank you, but gawdam it was tough to watch... not knowing what parts do or are called. Read up on them before doing a video... please!
Great video Chris! This helped me rebuild the PSP on my Jimmy. What plastic tray are you using in the video? It looks durable, like a Rubbermaid, and I like the sides that can catch fluids. Where did you get it? It would have been helpful with my rebuild and would be great for carbs, too, but I can't find a similar one anywhere.
If that pump lasts as long as a factory rebuild I would be surprised. There should never been any sand blasting media on the parts prior to assembly. Blowing it out with compressed air is not going to do it.
Pretty sure those parts were made in sand castings so there's a good chance they were subjected to the same consistency as blasting media ;) The danger is with leaving sand inside "after" assembly. Clearly he cleaned it out, no harm no foul.
Thanks man I am going to do that on my 1980 z28. the thing is leaking and i feel like rebuilding it. you think leaving it over night in gasoline will clean up or is that going to damage rubber stuff in it? Thanks for the help and awsome video.
Good Video with tips that will help anyone brave enough to do this job. The rebuilder shows great skills and I think his work will last given his attention to details. Please view my video about MerCruiser 3.7 that has Saginaw pump with a housing that rusts out and MerCruiser wants $500 for marine type. I used automotive pump with good result. I would love to know where to buy replacement parts to rebuild the MerCruiser 3.7 power steering system that I think must be standard GM parts, but I don't know where to buy the bits and pieces to rebuild. Please view my videos and share any tips you might have where to buy the parts used for rebuilding. The 3.7 pump has low pressure side tube that exits with a 90 degree and goes toward the port side of the boat. Thanks for taking the time and effort to create and post this video!
I really liked your video, but how in the FUCK did you get that bushing out? Wish you would have showed removal. My bushing has a diagonal space that looks like it makes the bushing expand when you hammer it from either direction.
I just wanna thank you for the time you put into making these videos! I've worked on many classics but your videos help me on my 69 chevelle I just picked up. Thank you
Hey I want to thank you for taking the time and showing every body how it's done. I had damaged my new steering pump housing, so I swapped it out with the old one. many thanks and god bless.
I do this yesterday after watching this Video! Thank you Chris, it was a big help for me!
Alot of tedious work intense labor but you are also a master at it.
Good video. I’d recommend removing the woodruff key before pushing the shaft through the new seal.
Many good comments below about your rebuild of your power steering pump, including knowing the common names of the components. I am sure by now someone below has mentioned the item you could not identify is the "pressure relief valve". All sanding and filing of parts should be done and then once again a liquid bath, air dry and wipe down of parts should be performed before reassembly. The smallest of abrasive grit from the sand paper or the filing of the bushing can cause early failure of seals, rotary vanes (the other part you did not know) and or their mating surfaces. I personally would not have supported the reservoir housing on one contact point of the socket as this creates a very localized point of pressure which could have bent the housing. I understand that in the factory they have presses and jigs to prevent this type of damage, but one does as well as one can in a home shop.
Other than these few small procedural errors your video was informative.
it’s just a mechanical pump ... chill out
Thanks for sharing! Put the bushing in the freezer first, and it drops right in...
So there isnt any need for the installation tool from harbor freight?
@@77cuti Don't need it.
Hey, thank you for making this video. I’m just now doing mine and am using your videos to do it.
The part where you said "this is where I think most people throw in the towell" is where I was yesterday. Thanks to your video I think mine will work now. I had to file the new bushing a little because isn't was a little tight. Also I haven't found a single video of anyone working on my exact pump,.. after you take off the big retainer clip to get to the inside, and remove that backing plate that was holding the clip, that's where mine is a little different. Everyone has one big spring in the middle and I have 2 little springs that sit right over the dowel pins.. don't know why mine is different but I would really like to know. And you can tell by the outside because that backing plate on mine is just a dome and every one else's has a circle in the center for their one big center spring to sit in.
That little part that fell out at 5:16 is called a rotor vane. They only go in one way. The radius edge goes towards the cam surface or outwards.
Just wanted to give you a pat on the back. This is the most helpful video rebuilding this pump.
For those doing this, One thing to pay close attention to is how the pressure regulator goes in. It goes spring then valve. Ask me how I know. 😂
Great video! Plain and simple. Yes, it's less work to buy a rebuilt but this is great to know if you like working on your own classic car. Thanks again
Been many years, at least 20 since I did one of these. Good video to catch up. Mine goes to a 60 Pontiac full size. They are all pretty much the same. I would however recommend removing the pulley key way and not reinstalling it until after the shaft is pushed through the new seal. Much less risk of damage on the seal.
Great video Chris
This helped me with reseal and bush replacement on my Saginaw power steering pump.
Note: Ensure the arrow on the vane pump housing is correct with shaft rotation.
Cheers
Love the Sigor Ros in the background.
Awesome. Following these videos to work on my 72 Chevelle exclusively. Keep em comin' man
This message is mainly for other viewers...Make sure to consider cross contamination of fluids, when pre- lubricating DO NOT use oil this could be catastrophic to Hydroboost brake booster if equipped, use power steering fluid to lubricate, also DO NOT use wheel bearing grease inside or on any seals this can cause a deterioration of the rubber components, a safe product would be a thin coating of dielectric silicone grease, but most often I only reassemble lubricating all parts in power steering fluid and only use dielectric grease when reinstalling the reservoir when it is stubborn going back on to the pump... make sure to use your emery cloth or machine paper in a concentric direction with the part and cross hatching can cause leaks...always remember the more clean and sterile your assembly is the longer the pump will last and the more dependable it will be...
Also I do not recommend buying a remanufacturered pump quality control on those units are horrible and more often fail than rebuilding yourself... yes lifetime warranty also now stands for you'll be replacing often 😂
great video otherwise... I loved the fact that your camera was not all over the place 👍
This video help me rebuild my 69 Charger power steering pump. They are almost the exact same. Thanks for the video
it's a good idea to put a rubber band around the vanes before taking it out so the y stay put and not falling apart
More constructive criticism... Don't put the output shaft seal in until the unit is fully assembled. Yes, you will need a hollow implement that will straddle the shaft while you drive the seal in place-but this is the CORRECT way to do it. Never shove the shaft through the seal from the back side like you are doing in the video. You can easily dislodge the garter spring in the spring, and/or CUT the sealing surface of the seal with those "sharp edges" you talk about. Seal goes in after shaft installation. Also, as you seat the seal onto the shaft-slowly twist the seal as you slide it down onto the shaft to avoid cutting it. Also, you need to polish the shaft to remove all rust, and scale or corrosion before putting it back into service. If there is a groove worn where the old seal was riding check to see if it will catch a fingernail. A visible ring is not a problem. A ring groove cut into the shaft means the shaft is no longer serviceable, and you should probably buy a new pump, or find a good shaft, or buy one of the seals that comes with a sleeve that goes over the shaft first. Like the other guy said-sanding, and then just blowing with compressed air is NOT good enough for cleanliness. After sanding-use brake clean, or other solvent, then blow it dry. Use a white napkin to run across all surfaces to check for clean. If the napkin comes up with crud or dirt on it-you are not done cleaning. Great video other than the minor stuff we discussed.
meant to say garter spring in the seal...
That bushing has a gap that needs to be line up with the oil hole
are you sure they all have that? i didnt notice that.. it still works perfect to this day.. thanks
@@chriscraft77022 How often do you drive?
@@rogermur1505 ive built a few of these and drove them for many years.. like 130mph on the freeway every chance i had...
very good vid nicely illustrated
Thank you! I could not figure out how to get the spring out. I learned there is a compression hole... Problem solved.
I have a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 and my power steering is leaking pretty bad. We think we traced the leak to that big 1'' nut that goes in the back of the pump housing. I'm glad we didn't try and tighten it more or we could have made it worse. Someone else maybe put it on too tight or else the o rings inside might be squashed. I guess I'll just get another whole unit and be done with it.
Do you know if a 2005 GMC Yukon power steering pump is rebuildable? It is not leaking, it simply stopped working good at low RPMs (below 800rpms, like at stop lights. It works fine while driving at rpms above idle/800rpm.
Thanks!
My pump looks exactly the same as that one but it has two steel lines out the back. Mines is on a '76 c30 454. Will that rebuild kit work for it also ?
go to auto parts and order kit for your pump
Does it hurt anything if the shaft moves in and out just a tiny bit, small play in and out, or should the shaft not budge? Or is it normal to have a small amount of in an out play? Thanks......
that’s normal
Thanks for posting. Great quality too!
I have the same pump I didnt catch did you say where to get parts for them?
great video....This was a big help to me..Thanks!
I learned much from this video, thank you, but gawdam it was tough to watch... not knowing what parts do or are called. Read up on them before doing a video... please!
old video, sorry
You mentioned a couple of tools with which you tapped in the bushing. What are they and where did you get them?
literally a bushing installer from harbor freight.. it was $30
Great video Chris! This helped me rebuild the PSP on my Jimmy. What plastic tray are you using in the video? It looks durable, like a Rubbermaid, and I like the sides that can catch fluids. Where did you get it? It would have been helpful with my rebuild and would be great for carbs, too, but I can't find a similar one anywhere.
That tray also caught my attention. I need one or two.
Yo video is the truth proshade
Excellence video A+
Why not put the pump body in a vise so it's stable towork on?
why does that even matter.. i didnt have a tripod to film at the vice at the time
At 3:30, that song playing in the background was in a movie... does anyone remember wtf movie it was?
its sigur ros.. only song ive ever heard of them in a movie was "untitled 4 " in vanilla sky..
I just figured it out, The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou
If that pump lasts as long as a factory rebuild I would be surprised. There should never been any sand blasting media on the parts prior to assembly. Blowing it out with compressed air is not going to do it.
+Sheila MacLachlan the pump is going on a restored car and i didnt sand blast the inside of the pump ya big dummy
Pretty sure those parts were made in sand castings so there's a good chance they were subjected to the same consistency as blasting media ;)
The danger is with leaving sand inside "after" assembly. Clearly he cleaned it out, no harm no foul.
@@chriscraft77022 Yeah ! Ya Big Dummy ! you tell her Chris great video btw
Thanks man I am going to do that on my 1980 z28. the thing is leaking and i feel like rebuilding it. you think leaving it over night in gasoline will clean up or is that going to damage rubber stuff in it? Thanks for the help and awsome video.
An “o” ring goes on that check valve doesn’t it?
Good Video with tips that will help anyone brave enough to do this job. The rebuilder shows great skills and I think his work will last given his attention to details. Please view my video about MerCruiser 3.7 that has Saginaw pump with a housing that rusts out and MerCruiser wants $500 for marine type. I used automotive pump with good result. I would love to know where to buy replacement parts to rebuild the MerCruiser 3.7 power steering system that I think must be standard GM parts, but I don't know where to buy the bits and pieces to rebuild. Please view my videos and share any tips you might have where to buy the parts used for rebuilding. The 3.7 pump has low pressure side tube that exits with a 90 degree and goes toward the port side of the boat. Thanks for taking the time and effort to create and post this video!
Decent video, but shut the darn radio off.
When u buy a new or rebuilt its life time warranty for 55 bucks
I really liked your video, but how in the FUCK did you get that bushing out? Wish you would have showed removal. My bushing has a diagonal space that looks like it makes the bushing expand when you hammer it from either direction.