I really appreciate this video. I tried to watch a few others but the over the top personalities and secondhand embarrassing jokes and hard to digest dialog was just too hard to follow. This is straight forward and no bullshit. No bullshit. Thanks a lot.
33 min into Video. Anyone who is going to Rebuild a Steering Gear Box need only to watch this YT. Take a week, watch a little each day. VALUABLE information is contained inside.
I’m a big fan of magnets in the garage. When I did this using your video, I stuck some small square neodymium’s on the housing next to the piston as pulled it out. Any bearings that were loose stuck to it instead of rushing out. Thanks for the help rebuilding my steering box!
Just came to say this is a great video. Started on a different one and it skipped a few critical reassembly steps. Then I found yours- wish I would’ve started here. Thank you for taking the time to do this right.
Excellent detailed video. I followed it today for a rebuild. Everything went smooth until I was ready to put the spool valve and worm gear back into the housing. The step to put the thrust(flat) bearing was missing. I reviewed that point in the video 5X and it was never mentioned, so I backed up to the beginning to see where it was removed from, and this let me know where it went during reassembly. This video is one of the best I've ever used for a complex process. The next one will be easy.
I am your subscriber, sir. Please ask how to modify the Torque Rod in the Pinion Gear? . All this time I have been observing why no one has modified the Pinion Gear. The info is that by modifying the Pinion Gear you can lighten the steering. Thank you very much in advance, I am waiting for your answer and vlog
It is not recommended by most because the gear already has a lot of miles on it. Very rarely can that truly fix an issue. It must be done in small increments or you can cause it to bind up.
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you in advance for your attention , but sorry for your answer , i don't understand what you mean ? Can you explain what you mean further ?
Thanks for the great video. Just used this to rebuild the steering gear in a 97 Astro van. Couple of things are different in the Astro. Apparently it has a reverse steering box, which took me a couple of tries to figure out that you have to add the balls with the piston starting at the outside instead of all the way in. When turning the input shaft counter clockwise on the Astro box it moves the piston in instead of out. After 2 attempts to add balls starting with the piston all the way in (the input shaft only turns clockwise from there once you get a couple of balls in) and dropping the balls into the bottom I finally figured it out. The other thing that was different was that the dust seal on the pitman shaft was on the outside of the snap ring when I took it apart. It is the orginal box (bought the van new in 97) and the service manual also shows it that way. Hope this helps the next guy that uses your awesome video on an Astro van. Thanks again.
Wow you broke that down and rebuilt it like a pro! I work at the plant that made these boxes from 2001-on after the gun plant closed across town, as an electrical engineer. Thankfully we don't have to load the balls by hand, and we cheat a little bit getting those pesky teflon rings into the bores. We make other boxes primarily at this point. Like you said, a lot of the time the housing eggs out where the main bearing in the direction the pitman arm travels, and that's where the play usually is, plus in the linkages. The Rack/Pitman Fan interface is usually not lashy unless someone has really abused the box.
As I'm about to rebuild the steering box on my Winnebago I've watched numerous videos on how to rebuild it. I will just say you set the standard and will be the video I use when I pull mine apart. Excellent narration and the videography was superb. I've always said a good instructor can take a difficult job and make it look easy. I look forward to watching your other Jeep videos since my CJ8 needs some love.
Good luck with that project! The thing I don't like about videos is that they don't show the frustration the teacher encounters, and it does happen. Just be prepared for anything that doesn't go smooth and stick with it without losing your cool! Reinserting the ball bearings can take several attempts to get them all in.
This is great! I tried re-building one years ago before there were good videos on TH-cam and I couldn't comprehend the directions (after all the ball bearings fell out). After watching this video I'm certain I could do it correctly and avoid buying a poorly done reman. I've returned multiple re-manufactured units to the local auto parts stores.
Thanks, very thorough and detailed. Good angles with the camera and all. I have the confidence to try to not mess up mine and hopefully save myself a few hundred dollars.
Terrific Video, thank you for posting this! Just did my Saginaw off of a Humvee, and a couple of lessons learned: 1) I found it easiest to use a magnetic screwdriver to pick up those ball bearings, dropping them int the opening, then pressing them down with my finger while pulling the screwdriver out, so the ball stays in the opening. Also, if you just get the right angle for the piston - you will have no clearance around it, so even if you drop a ball - it will stay against the wall and won't drop down. So you can fish it out easily with a magnetic pick. 2) If you end up running out of space as I did before you had all of those 16 balls in - rotate the gear back, to move the piston back to the original position, while using your magnetic screwdriver to retrieve the balls as they begin to pop up. Then you will have maybe another 1-3 balls left after it stops rotating. Release the adjusting nut and pull the spool valve/gear worm assembly out. You can stick a magnet to it and it may pull the remaining balls out. If it doesn't - don't fret, you will be able to fish them out of there with a magnetic pick. You can also remove the big piston instead, but mine put up a huge fight going back in, so, I found removing the spool valve/worm gear to be easier than the large piston, especially because you won;t have all the balls in, so, it won't get fully pushed out as it would during disassembly. And above all - patience :-) I cursed a lot during my rebuild :-)
Also - if you need to remove and redo the balls without pulling the spool valve and gear work assembly - just rotate the gear worm back to pull the piston in- balls will start coming out of the top hole you can pick them up with your magnetic screwdriver/pick (some might still be easier to pick from the bottom hole). Also - put some electrical tape on your input stub shaft splines - both when you are pulling it through the seal and dust seal, and when you are rotating it with vicegrips on them - st first it protects the seals, and then it protects the splines from getting gouged by vicegrips. The large cover on the piston side is tricky to go in (missing from this video) - some recomment putting the O-ring on the cover but you are risking damaging it while it goes through that groove for the retaining ring. Put it inside the body. Lather with the steering fluid. Then press the cover in - may need to tap it with a rubber mallet to negotiate it in.
And one more thought - when loading the 16 balls in - I pressed them in there with the appropriately sized punch. So, when the groove opens up, you can drop the ball, press it in (don't use excessive force) with the punch and it will slide down the hole but up the worm gear groove below/to the right of it. Then you can press the next one in without even moving the piston. Careful, though, make sure the ball goes down the groove, not up! It allows you to do quite a bit of them before you have to move the piston to free up additional space in the grooves of the worm gear. As long as you are not seeing one ball in the top hole you are OK. The way this works is the balls, essentially, move in circle through the worm gear grooves, and go though that tube on top of the piston, out the top hole and into the bottom, so, basically, those balls need to be packed tightly within that orbit. I ended up packing 16 balls with the piston positioned almost perfectly in the middle when I was done, providing easier access for placement of that overthrow tube, strap and bolts. I feel like perhaps this is how is was intended to be done. This was on my 4th attempt, LOL, all previous times I had my piston travel way too far left and I still have balls left :-)
First off, thank you so much for this video. I used to rebuild the steering box on my 2004 Chevy 2500hd. Everything was exactly the same. For my box, the bearing pitman shaft bearing had a model number of "SLH12501". I was able to find it on the web and replaced it with a new bearing of the same model. My rebuild kit did not include the small O-ring that went on the thing on the inside of the spool. Not a big deal I guess, but something to note. The thrust washers on my box were concave (or convex I guess depending on how you look at it). The high side goes away from the spool or towards the inside of the box. They show a picture of a diagram in the a video on TH-cam titled "Saginaw Integral Rotary Power Steering Gear Rebuild" at 37:02 if you need a visual reference. Again, thank you, the video was fantastic and made the rebuilding job super easy.
I get the sense he is experienced speaking to groups, like a course instructor. A lot of people use snap ring pliers incorrectly, most snap rings are designed for right angle pliers. The reason is to eliminate losing the ring. The body of the pliers should be positioned over the snap ring, when the ring comes off the pliers underload it bounces between the pliers and the piece of equipment then falls straight down. Just came to mind watching the removal of the pitman shaft snap ring. Great job sir, I have referenced this 3 times, definitely looking for other videos.
Ya man. Your video save my ... I have a 2001 Suburban 6.0L with the Delphi box. According to AcDelco and all GM Parts websites, I can not replace the pitman shaft bearing INA SLH 12501/SKF1250 because I don't have one. Had to order it from SKF and get a major seal kit just for the cap gasket. Thank you again.
Thanks for taking the time and posting such a thorough video. I’m about to do the Durango to TJ swap with hydro-assist. Planning on doing everything myself so I’m sure I’ll be coming back to this video.
Great video. My son's 98 TJ box is leaking, I am going to have him watch this video so he can rebuild his box and save himself some money over buying a reman.
Awesome video! I knew i could probably maybe reseal my leaky box. Saved me $400 vs sending mine in for a "rebuild" took mine apart and everything looked great! Had a leak from the input shaft. They would have just resealed it and sent it back for $400! Im a CAT deisel tech so i figured i can do this myself! Your video is the best! Thanks very much!
Great in depth gear box full rebuild. Nice tricks of the trade reviled. While I had everything apart I used 2000 grit to polish all metal parts for easier fluid flow. Even did the grooves on the worm gear shaft. Man does my steering work flawlessly now. Don't know if my polishing made a difference but I would like to think it did. Took me an entire day to rebuild and polish but in my mind was worth the extra time spent. What made me polish the internals with 2000 grit is because I did the same to power steering pump when I rebuilt it. Maybe a combination of both. Thanks for the video. Subscribed...
Is there any place that selles the Right bearings? None of the kits have the flange on the bearing to seat it correctly. Just wondering for future reference.
Thank you so much for posting this. Glad to see the part with the hose clamps and the zip tie... Made it a lot easier. Mine was a bit older (67 Chevelle) but it was close enough to make it work.
Great video, noticed the order of the seals on the output shaft. Shaft seal, washer, dust seal then the snap ring. The dust seal was on the outside of the snap ring when I pulled mine apart. From what I’ve seen that’s how it comes with the dust seal on the outside of the snap ring. That being said it makes sense for all of the seals to be held in with the snap ring. I tried it both ways and noticed if you don’t put the dust seal under the snap ring and bottom out the seal and washer against the bearing there will be a gap between the washer and the snap ring. So ultimately I put the dust seal under the snap ring holding everything in.
@ given it’s a dust seal I don’t think it matters what side of the snap ring you put the dust seal on. Just something I noticed I ended up putting everything like you did under the snap ring. Without the dust seal under the snap ring there’s a gap between the washer and the snap ring. Which happens to be the exact thickenss of the dust seal.
GREAT vid...most clearly done! i have been to bmw school an porsche factory training schools, never anything as good as this! !!! gonna start mine tomoro
When your putting the U shaped bearing holder at 1:05:30 What direction do the light colored bearings go in. Does the light color face the large opening or the black bearings face the large opening. Because there seems to be 2 ways it can sit in the two holes.
You want to alternate the black bearings with the chrome bearings. When you install the U channel, use the opposite color bearing that it will be butting up against.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you so much for the help. Without you I couldn’t learn this info in very many places. I don’t have anyone in my life to coach me along the way to fixing things myself. Thank you
Just as a suggestion, to protect the teflon seals and also to install them, but some shim stock. It is available from industrial supply houses like McMaster-Carr in any thickness, sheet size, rolls, and material. For this job a .004" stainless shim stock would be about right. Wrap the teflon seals and then use the worm clamps as you did. To install the teflon seals it helps to heat them slightly in warm power steering fluid and then wrap the stainless shim stock around the part and slide the reals all the way down without any trouble hitting the grooves. The worm gear and nut with the balls in between with a return tube is called a 'ball screw' in industrial parlance. They must be taken apart and cleaned for inspection using methods very similar to what you used. However, your use of a tiny zip tie to hold the return tube together in tight quarters was pure genius.
It is interesting you have found as I have the rebuilds are sloppy, not leak but still have uncontrolled play in sector assembly that cannot be tolerated cause they steer badly. ASE certified for 51 years, even hard to find good used...be sure to check loosness in the intermediate shaft to steering wheel. This guy is good
A tip that mint help you...... as a trany guy we deal with Teflon seals, some you can buy the stretchers & shrinking cones but I have cut soda can & wrap it over the spool valve groves... then slide your seals on. Each grove covered except the one your putting on... in order. Your tin snips will roll the edge slightly so have it overlap so it faces the can & wont damage the seal. You can do the same for shrinking with that lip away from the seal again overlapping the aluminum can b4 using your hose clamp. We align out pump half's using a clamp b4 tightening the bolts.
Thank you for an excellent quality and informative video in this steering box and i feel i can not refer my jeeps' bot with out fear, will be subscribing to watch more of your work.
I finally got mine back together after many tries and two steering boxes. I have over 360000 on my suburban and found the inside of the housing was actually grooved. The hardest part for me was the ball bearings. I couldn't get them in there right for the life of me. Finally got it though after I understood all those bearings are meant to be "trapped" between those two holes. Obvious to most people I'd guess but not me.
Sir...I don't know if you teach mechanics for a living...but you ought to do so. ....I have 2 college degrees, and I have never seen a better teacher. I thank ya sincerely for teaching me this procedure sir
Thanks again for the great instructions! Question(s): 43:29 where does one obtain a new bearing for replacement? (Everyone I've found online wants to sell you the whole steering box, not internal parts) 45:16 how does one get that piece back in without destroying the O-ring? I've destroyed two o-rings (so far…) :( Thanks!
The bearing number is listed in the description. Do a search online to see who has one. Add far as the O ring, be sure to have plenty of power steering fluid in it when you're trying to insert that part. Take your time and don't force it.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the reply, sir. The bearing listed in the description is for the sector shaft; the bearing I was looking for is the one that goes inside the spool valve and supports the steering input shaft. The sleeve-looking item is the part I was having difficulties with the o-ring. The unit I have is a Delphi, though the instructions you provided mostly worked for it. Was thinking I might have to go to a GM dealer (with fingers crossed) and see if their parts manuals list it. but thought I'd ask in case you had that part number handy. BTW, do you know of any sites that might have access to GM's parts manuals? Thanks again!
Exactly what I needed to learn - first time to rebuild- pretty much anything. Of course I had to watch the video a half dozen times. However; I had confidence the whole way through the rebuild. Thanks Ron Staggs
Thanks for this video. Following it to a tee. I'm at the part where piston goes back in and it won't go back in for nothing. I let it wrapped with that clamp for a few hours, then overnight, and now overnight again. This time I really tightened that that clamp down. One observation. I had to buy two rebuild kits because I nicked up one of the seals. The Duralast kit I bought did not appear to have that little o ring for the spool valve. The Edelman kit did.
Good video. Great instructional value. Lots of the right kind of detail. One minor critique. Your guestimation is just a bit off on the number of turns. From my POV, it was 3 1/3 turns, therefore half of that would be 1 1/2, plus another 1/6 (or 1/3 of 1/2 turn). Other than that minor issue, again, good video. Thank you.
Awesome Video! You really do set the standard for Instructional videos. Question - You explained the differences in the OE bearing vs After market and it sounded like you favored the after market bearing. Then it looked like you used the shouldered OE bearing in your steering box. Did I misunderstand? Which bearing do you prefer and could you include part numbers and/or where you got yours - Please?
Excellent tutorial. Question: I have 1977 box with flare fittings for where hoses connect to box. My return line seeps where the return fitting threads into box. Is there a way to either clean up (or better to replace) the brass colored piece inside the box that mates with the flare fitting? Trying to improve the seal at this point.
@The BFH Garage at 1:03:50 you can clearly see the end cap is back on (while inserting the bearings) but at 1:08:22 you put your socket on the service cap to rotate to correct orientation. Did you Install it then remove it and then install it again?
@@TheBFHGarage So leave it off until you get it oriented? Cool. I've got a super leaky Saginaw on my '77 Cadillac Coupe. I went ahead and ordered the bearing. Now something that was already mentioned in a question but I didn't see a reply: You said the original bearing has a lip that keeps it from going in too far and the KOYO BH-2020 does not?
I apologize if you mentioned this in the video, I admit that I skipped through just to get the gist: does this help eliminate any center play or is this strictly to address leaks? If not, is it possible to renew the worm gear and/or recirculating balls on these in order to tighten up the slop?
This addresses the leaks for the most part. Worn parts are worn parts no matter how you look at it. The one thing that can help is a new sector shaft bearing. I have it listed in the description.
So why are you against adjusting the lash? What is worn that adjusting the lash solves? What parts am I meshing together to eliminate a sloppy steering wheel?@@TheBFHGarage
@@tim1299 It's not that I'm against it, it's just that adjusting it will rarely solve the problem. A steering gear with 300K miles will be worn and no amount of adjustment will fix that. Adjusting it tends to make it feel notchy and will lead to quick failure as the parts aren't meshing smoothly. Word of caution if you do decide to mess with your lash. First, make SMALL adjustments and test drive. Second, be ready for a plan B (different box).
Awesome video; best I’ve seen yet. Forgive me if you mentioned this, but did you orient the ball hoop to make sure the colors are still alternating? It seems like you could get the same colors next to one another if you weren’t careful.
I compared your video to the service manual. The service manual says that the pitman seal assembly should go in this order from inside to outside: Oil seal, Washer, Snap Ring, Dust Seal, Pitman Shaft Boot. Perhaps you don't have to hammer in the dust seal if the snap ring is already in? Did you intentionally reverse their order?
Great video. Do you have any advice on how to identify the seal kit required? I have a saginaw 800 box on my '51 Willys I'm going to rebuild but do not know what vehicle it originally came from. There seem to be an infinite number of seal kits available.
Can you point me towards a span er wrench I can tighten the seal on the car. It's leaking from passenger Ford freestar and common on Taurus. A few inches deep pegs needed on recesses
What seal kit did you use? When I look for them, there are many options and I can't pinpoint which one I need exactly. My steering box is just like the one you show in the video. Also, the bearing that I do see in the kits do not have the flange.
@@DavidSuzieNardozzi That's one of the reasons I don't like adding part numbers to these videos because they constantly change. I would go with what they have listed for your specific application.
amazing video, very well explained. would this be essentially the same process for a GM 2008 Sierra 2500 gear box? it is a 4 bolt top and looks nearly Identical to this box. But before I rip it out and tear into it I wanted to make sure. thanks
@@dcsann I can't speak to every gear box as they can have differences. Generally speaking, the process is usually the same. They might have a different number of bearings so pay close attention to the number that comes out. Also be sure to take photos and videos so you can see exactly how things come apart and go back together.
Great video, if I had only seen this one before I faught with mine The trick of shrinking down the teflon would have been nice to know. If the cap with the spanner nut is not marked is there a torque spec to start with? Also what about the lash adjuster?
The FSM will have a torque spec depending on the box. I've found that wheel the mark you set lines up is just when it starts to get tight. As far as the lash adjustment, I recommend that people leave that alone except under last resort situations. A box that had 200k miles on it can't be fixed by simply adjusting lash. Wear is wear and you can't get around that. People who adjust that lash need to understand that the box probably won't last much longer.
Great instructions and easy to follow job. For a 78 K5 Blazer, I intend to change the sector for a 2WD so I can retrofit a cross-over steering. Are those sectors interchangable for saginaw pumps? I mean similar year from a C10 vehicle.
Great video, very informative and thorough. How do you properly "clock" the input shaft so the gear box goes back in the jeep in the correct position for the steering shaft? Thanks again.
Before you take it out, make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position. When you're done rebuilding the box, turn the input shaft all the way to one side. Count the number of turns and divide by two. Turn that much should put it really close.
Thanks for the quick reply. However, that is after the gear box is assembled, I was referring to how to clock it when putting it back together, so the flat spot on the input shaft is at the 12 o'clock position relative to the gear box being in the "installed" position. I am thinking it gets clocked correctly when you start loading the ball bearings with the piston all the way forward, and load the balls from the back hole using counter clockwise rotation of the input shaft? @@TheBFHGarage
Also, here is another "trick" that I tried. Instead of packing the return rail, I put a bearing onto the worm shaft, rotate in counter clockwise a bit, then put a dowel behind the ball and rotate the shaft a bit clockwise. This pushes the ball down into the worm. If you keep doing that you can get all 24 balls into the worm without putting any in the return rail. Adding a bit of power steering fluid with an eye dropper, after a few ball, helps too.
I think that is because you have positioned the piston at the closest position towards the input shaft. Then the grooves in the worm gear are positioning the input shaft at the proper location for the steering wheel to be in the same position as when it was removed. The way I came about this revelation, was starting with the piston in the middle of the worm gear. Fortunately, I realized the issue before attempting to install it. Hope I am explaining knowledgeably. @@TheBFHGarage
I stretch my teflon rings to apply & then clamp them afterwards. They will shrink back some by themselves but clamping using my aluminum strips. Check out the tools we use on say the 700R4 input shaft seals.
Where do you get your seal kits? Torrington bearing? Not in kits i see. Also there is a flat ring deep inside housing,is that a wear ring for spool valve?
@@TheBFHGarage when you take end cap off,look way down inside bore,there is a flat,low tension ring snapped in a groove. Thinking it like a wear ring or spacer. My box says delphi out of 2004 chevy 4x4 2500
As for the surface of the housing - How would you go about making it totally smooth? Let's say you wanted to get it real smooth so paint looked really good on it. How would you do it?
@@TheBFHGarage Yes this would be for an old classic show truck that gets driven maybe 5k miles per year. I wanted to rebuild the box but I figured why not make it look nicer while I had it out.
Thank you for the detailed instructions in this video. I’ve got a box from a 98 Durango that I want to rebuild and tap for hydro-assist and install on my 97 TJ. I can find seal kits all day long but I can’t find any bearing information. I’d like to have all my parts before I start tearing it down. Do you have any information that would help me out with that? Thanks
Great video, and I am almost finished but my Spool Valve does not come apart as it did in your video. The adjusting Nut had a snap ring, which I removed but that nut plus the next piece does not just slide off. Something feels like it is holding it in place. Did I miss something? Thanks
Depends on what your steering gear came off of. This video is specific to a Jeep Wrangler 97-02 although most other early boxes are similar. See if you can locate a factory service manual for your vehicle. If this is about a Wrangler, it can take some wiggling and manipulation to get it to come out.
I really appreciate the video. However, the ball bearings from my unit are very hard to discern the black from the silver. The color must've worn off over the years. Can you find out which is which by size?
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the quick reply. I think I will just purchase new ones. OEM part is only $35 for them. I have the service manual and it also says to alternate as you showed. I'd rather do it right once. My calipers were not consistently finding a difference either.
@@TheBFHGarage For your or anybody else's reference, I measured all the balls twice with a micrometer. Half measured 279-279.5 thousandths; the other half measured 278-278.5 thousandths. The smaller pile does seem to look every so slightly darker, which complies with the service manual.
Once again excellent video. I took a deep look on how you doing it, because I have an issue on a similar steering gear box that I worked on. Everything I did was exactly the same as the video. But, when I put it on the test bench, after a full stoke, the pressure in the casing was so high that the 4 bolts from the cover just poped out of their holes... striped. The bench was ajusted to 1000 psi. The client's problem was a leakage from this cover. I use to work on hydraulic systems, motors, pumps, body valves etc. This was my first steering gear box. I don't know what is the problem at this point. Maybe the piston goes toofar and is open through the housing?
Great and helpful video. Appreciate the thorough information. I was wondering though you mentioned the koyo 2020 bearing not having a lip or edge and that you would cover how to put it in, but it seems like you used the same type of bearing with the recess or edge when re installing. Is it the same process with the koyo bearing? Thanks again
The process is the same, just be sure to tap the bearing from the backside to make sure it's snug against the other parts when everything is installed.
So the kit that I have had two oil seals in the sector shaft housing area. Two different thicknesses, I cannot remember if their order in which they came out. Maybe some models had a oil seal on both sides of the sector shaft bearing?
In regards to my previous questions; So the two seals one thicker and one thinner, otherwise no difference. I put the thicker seal in first (bottom) then a washer (supplied with kit) then the thinner seal with the open end facing up (my assumption on this one is to keep outside contaminants from entering into the steering gear) then the other supplied washer, then the snap ring. Flipped the steering gear over and snuggled everything up to the snap ring washer.
@brotherjesus4246 my guess is there is only one oil seal. Did they both have a spring in them? One is probably just a dust seal with no spring. When installing the seal, the spring side of the seal goes toward the bearing/box.
What is the flat thing in the end of the input side stub shaft called? I didn't see it even mentioned in the rebuild. My gearbox is leaking through the hollow shaft and out of this part which looks slightly different than yours but similar. I'd post a pic but not sure how on here.
So sur, In the event that your dterribg comes out of center in the cab...from ur dteer eherls hitying a curb and throwing ur sterring slignment off, fors the worm gear jump a tooth??? Ty, much appreciated.( all ny ither sterring parts and jounts are good) ty.
Hands down the best Saginaw rebuild video on YT.
Haven't seen any others, but definitely better than most general instructional videos I have seen. 👍
I really appreciate this video. I tried to watch a few others but the over the top personalities and secondhand embarrassing jokes and hard to digest dialog was just too hard to follow. This is straight forward and no bullshit. No bullshit. Thanks a lot.
33 min into Video. Anyone who is going to Rebuild a Steering Gear Box need only to watch this YT. Take a week, watch a little each day. VALUABLE information is contained inside.
Already did and mine is now done
I’m a big fan of magnets in the garage. When I did this using your video, I stuck some small square neodymium’s on the housing next to the piston as pulled it out. Any bearings that were loose stuck to it instead of rushing out. Thanks for the help rebuilding my steering box!
Just came to say this is a great video. Started on a different one and it skipped a few critical reassembly steps. Then I found yours- wish I would’ve started here. Thank you for taking the time to do this right.
Excellent detailed video. I followed it today for a rebuild. Everything went smooth until I was ready to put the spool valve and worm gear back into the housing. The step to put the thrust(flat) bearing was missing. I reviewed that point in the video 5X and it was never mentioned, so I backed up to the beginning to see where it was removed from, and this let me know where it went during reassembly. This video is one of the best I've ever used for a complex process. The next one will be easy.
Wow, I can't believe I didn't show that. I'll have to go back and look. But good idea going back to the beginning.
I am your subscriber, sir. Please ask how to modify the Torque Rod in the Pinion Gear? . All this time I have been observing why no one has modified the Pinion Gear. The info is that by modifying the Pinion Gear you can lighten the steering. Thank you very much in advance, I am waiting for your answer and vlog
It is not recommended by most because the gear already has a lot of miles on it. Very rarely can that truly fix an issue. It must be done in small increments or you can cause it to bind up.
@@TheBFHGarage Thank you in advance for your attention , but sorry for your answer , i don't understand what you mean ? Can you explain what you mean further ?
Thanks for the great video. Just used this to rebuild the steering gear in a 97 Astro van. Couple of things are different in the Astro. Apparently it has a reverse steering box, which took me a couple of tries to figure out that you have to add the balls with the piston starting at the outside instead of all the way in. When turning the input shaft counter clockwise on the Astro box it moves the piston in instead of out. After 2 attempts to add balls starting with the piston all the way in (the input shaft only turns clockwise from there once you get a couple of balls in) and dropping the balls into the bottom I finally figured it out. The other thing that was different was that the dust seal on the pitman shaft was on the outside of the snap ring when I took it apart. It is the orginal box (bought the van new in 97) and the service manual also shows it that way. Hope this helps the next guy that uses your awesome video on an Astro van. Thanks again.
Yeah there's a bunch that are different like you described, but your input here is really appreciated and hope it helps the next one. Thanks!
About to rebuild mine on my ‘96 safari. Thanks for the tips!
Wow you broke that down and rebuilt it like a pro!
I work at the plant that made these boxes from 2001-on after the gun plant closed across town, as an electrical engineer. Thankfully we don't have to load the balls by hand, and we cheat a little bit getting those pesky teflon rings into the bores.
We make other boxes primarily at this point. Like you said, a lot of the time the housing eggs out where the main bearing in the direction the pitman arm travels, and that's where the play usually is, plus in the linkages. The Rack/Pitman Fan interface is usually not lashy unless someone has really abused the box.
I really appreciate the kind words! I also appreciate the additional information about it👍
so if your box has looseness, this rebuild wont fix it
As I'm about to rebuild the steering box on my Winnebago I've watched numerous videos on how to rebuild it. I will just say you set the standard and will be the video I use when I pull mine apart. Excellent narration and the videography was superb. I've always said a good instructor can take a difficult job and make it look easy. I look forward to watching your other Jeep videos since my CJ8 needs some love.
Good luck with that project! The thing I don't like about videos is that they don't show the frustration the teacher encounters, and it does happen. Just be prepared for anything that doesn't go smooth and stick with it without losing your cool! Reinserting the ball bearings can take several attempts to get them all in.
This is great! I tried re-building one years ago before there were good videos on TH-cam and I couldn't comprehend the directions (after all the ball bearings fell out). After watching this video I'm certain I could do it correctly and avoid buying a poorly done reman. I've returned multiple re-manufactured units to the local auto parts stores.
Thanks, very thorough and detailed.
Good angles with the camera and all. I have the confidence to try to not mess up mine and hopefully save myself a few hundred dollars.
Appreciate you taking the time to show the amount of struggle to get those Teflon seals on. 1993 Toyota Land cruiser box is similar.
Terrific Video, thank you for posting this! Just did my Saginaw off of a Humvee, and a couple of lessons learned: 1) I found it easiest to use a magnetic screwdriver to pick up those ball bearings, dropping them int the opening, then pressing them down with my finger while pulling the screwdriver out, so the ball stays in the opening. Also, if you just get the right angle for the piston - you will have no clearance around it, so even if you drop a ball - it will stay against the wall and won't drop down. So you can fish it out easily with a magnetic pick. 2) If you end up running out of space as I did before you had all of those 16 balls in - rotate the gear back, to move the piston back to the original position, while using your magnetic screwdriver to retrieve the balls as they begin to pop up. Then you will have maybe another 1-3 balls left after it stops rotating. Release the adjusting nut and pull the spool valve/gear worm assembly out. You can stick a magnet to it and it may pull the remaining balls out. If it doesn't - don't fret, you will be able to fish them out of there with a magnetic pick. You can also remove the big piston instead, but mine put up a huge fight going back in, so, I found removing the spool valve/worm gear to be easier than the large piston, especially because you won;t have all the balls in, so, it won't get fully pushed out as it would during disassembly. And above all - patience :-) I cursed a lot during my rebuild :-)
Also - if you need to remove and redo the balls without pulling the spool valve and gear work assembly - just rotate the gear worm back to pull the piston in- balls will start coming out of the top hole you can pick them up with your magnetic screwdriver/pick (some might still be easier to pick from the bottom hole). Also - put some electrical tape on your input stub shaft splines - both when you are pulling it through the seal and dust seal, and when you are rotating it with vicegrips on them - st first it protects the seals, and then it protects the splines from getting gouged by vicegrips. The large cover on the piston side is tricky to go in (missing from this video) - some recomment putting the O-ring on the cover but you are risking damaging it while it goes through that groove for the retaining ring. Put it inside the body. Lather with the steering fluid. Then press the cover in - may need to tap it with a rubber mallet to negotiate it in.
And one more thought - when loading the 16 balls in - I pressed them in there with the appropriately sized punch. So, when the groove opens up, you can drop the ball, press it in (don't use excessive force) with the punch and it will slide down the hole but up the worm gear groove below/to the right of it. Then you can press the next one in without even moving the piston. Careful, though, make sure the ball goes down the groove, not up! It allows you to do quite a bit of them before you have to move the piston to free up additional space in the grooves of the worm gear. As long as you are not seeing one ball in the top hole you are OK. The way this works is the balls, essentially, move in circle through the worm gear grooves, and go though that tube on top of the piston, out the top hole and into the bottom, so, basically, those balls need to be packed tightly within that orbit. I ended up packing 16 balls with the piston positioned almost perfectly in the middle when I was done, providing easier access for placement of that overthrow tube, strap and bolts. I feel like perhaps this is how is was intended to be done. This was on my 4th attempt, LOL, all previous times I had my piston travel way too far left and I still have balls left :-)
First off, thank you so much for this video. I used to rebuild the steering box on my 2004 Chevy 2500hd. Everything was exactly the same.
For my box, the bearing pitman shaft bearing had a model number of "SLH12501". I was able to find it on the web and replaced it with a new bearing of the same model.
My rebuild kit did not include the small O-ring that went on the thing on the inside of the spool. Not a big deal I guess, but something to note.
The thrust washers on my box were concave (or convex I guess depending on how you look at it). The high side goes away from the spool or towards the inside of the box. They show a picture of a diagram in the a video on TH-cam titled "Saginaw Integral Rotary Power Steering Gear Rebuild" at 37:02 if you need a visual reference.
Again, thank you, the video was fantastic and made the rebuilding job super easy.
Where did you buy your rebuild parts?
@Kyle-ev4fk in the description
@Jason-je1of I am looking for the same shaft bearing model, can you tell me where did you get it?
I get the sense he is experienced speaking to groups, like a course instructor. A lot of people use snap ring pliers incorrectly, most snap rings are designed for right angle pliers. The reason is to eliminate losing the ring. The body of the pliers should be positioned over the snap ring, when the ring comes off the pliers underload it bounces between the pliers and the piece of equipment then falls straight down. Just came to mind watching the removal of the pitman shaft snap ring. Great job sir, I have referenced this 3 times, definitely looking for other videos.
Thanks for the comments but to be honest, I'd do whatever it takes to get those damn snap rings out of there 😂
Ya man. Your video save my ... I have a 2001 Suburban 6.0L with the Delphi box. According to AcDelco and all GM Parts websites, I can not replace the pitman shaft bearing INA SLH 12501/SKF1250 because I don't have one. Had to order it from SKF and get a major seal kit just for the cap gasket. Thank you again.
Thanks for taking the time and posting such a thorough video. I’m about to do the Durango to TJ swap with hydro-assist. Planning on doing everything myself so I’m sure I’ll be coming back to this video.
Update: thanks to this video and another one, I got mine fully rebuilt. So thank you!
Great to hear!
Great video. My son's 98 TJ box is leaking, I am going to have him watch this video so he can rebuild his box and save himself some money over buying a reman.
Personally By far the best steering box video ever 🎉🎉🎉
Detailed and well explained with very useful tips and tricks
Well done mate 👏
Very good video, easy to follow, and stuck to the subject matter w/o any rambling. Very much appreciated. Thank You!!
Awesome video! I knew i could probably maybe reseal my leaky box. Saved me $400 vs sending mine in for a "rebuild" took mine apart and everything looked great! Had a leak from the input shaft. They would have just resealed it and sent it back for $400! Im a CAT deisel tech so i figured i can do this myself! Your video is the best! Thanks very much!
@@trevormertz6205 I love hearing success stories like this! Glad it helped!
So detailed and at a great speed to follow along. Great camera angles to allow full visual of which step is which
Just got the rebuild kit from Midwest military. Gonna tackle this when I get it
Great in depth gear box full rebuild. Nice tricks of the trade reviled.
While I had everything apart I used 2000 grit to polish all metal parts for easier fluid flow. Even did the grooves on the worm gear shaft. Man does my steering work flawlessly now. Don't know if my polishing made a difference but I would like to think it did. Took me an entire day to rebuild and polish but in my mind was worth the extra time spent. What made me polish the internals with 2000 grit is because I did the same to power steering pump when I rebuilt it. Maybe a combination of both.
Thanks for the video.
Subscribed...
Is there any place that selles the Right bearings? None of the kits have the flange on the bearing to seat it correctly. Just wondering for future reference.
Very informative and the comment for thrust bearing is good to remember from the beginning.
Excellent video one of the best I've ever seen. Covered everything descriptive and thorough thanks
Thanks for another thorough and great video! It's timely for me. Ordered my seal kit and bearing today.
Thank you so much for posting this. Glad to see the part with the hose clamps and the zip tie... Made it a lot easier. Mine was a bit older (67 Chevelle) but it was close enough to make it work.
Great video, noticed the order of the seals on the output shaft. Shaft seal, washer, dust seal then the snap ring. The dust seal was on the outside of the snap ring when I pulled mine apart. From what I’ve seen that’s how it comes with the dust seal on the outside of the snap ring. That being said it makes sense for all of the seals to be held in with the snap ring.
I tried it both ways and noticed if you don’t put the dust seal under the snap ring and bottom out the seal and washer against the bearing there will be a gap between the washer and the snap ring. So ultimately I put the dust seal under the snap ring holding everything in.
Some have the outer dust shield and some don't.
@ given it’s a dust seal I don’t think it matters what side of the snap ring you put the dust seal on. Just something I noticed I ended up putting everything like you did under the snap ring. Without the dust seal under the snap ring there’s a gap between the washer and the snap ring. Which happens to be the exact thickenss of the dust seal.
GREAT vid...most clearly done! i have been to bmw school an porsche factory training schools, never anything as good as this! !!! gonna start mine tomoro
all i can say is a proffessional job and knowing how to deal with all marks and dry seals to prevent any damage in it 🤠👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🌹
I get to start rebuilding mine today, and this video looks very detailed!
When your putting the U shaped bearing holder at 1:05:30 What direction do the light colored bearings go in. Does the light color face the large opening or the black bearings face the large opening. Because there seems to be 2 ways it can sit in the two holes.
You want to alternate the black bearings with the chrome bearings. When you install the U channel, use the opposite color bearing that it will be butting up against.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you so much for the help. Without you I couldn’t learn this info in very many places. I don’t have anyone in my life to coach me along the way to fixing things myself. Thank you
Just as a suggestion, to protect the teflon seals and also to install them, but some shim stock.
It is available from industrial supply houses like McMaster-Carr in any thickness, sheet size, rolls, and material.
For this job a .004" stainless shim stock would be about right.
Wrap the teflon seals and then use the worm clamps as you did.
To install the teflon seals it helps to heat them slightly in warm power steering fluid and then wrap the stainless shim stock around the part and slide the reals all the way down without any trouble hitting the grooves.
The worm gear and nut with the balls in between with a return tube is called a 'ball screw' in industrial parlance. They must be taken apart and cleaned for inspection using methods very similar to what you used.
However, your use of a tiny zip tie to hold the return tube together in tight quarters was pure genius.
It is interesting you have found as I have the rebuilds are sloppy, not leak but still have uncontrolled play in sector assembly that cannot be tolerated cause they steer badly. ASE certified for 51 years, even hard to find good used...be sure to check loosness in the intermediate shaft to steering wheel. This guy is good
Thanks for the great video. You saved me a lot of aggravation and time.
great video, can a hair dryer be used to shrink the Teflon seals instead of the worm gear clamp method.
You could certainly give it a try. 🤷 The things we learn together!
A tip that mint help you...... as a trany guy we deal with Teflon seals, some you can buy the stretchers & shrinking cones but I have cut soda can & wrap it over the spool valve groves... then slide your seals on. Each grove covered except the one your putting on... in order. Your tin snips will roll the edge slightly so have it overlap so it faces the can & wont damage the seal. You can do the same for shrinking with that lip away from the seal again overlapping the aluminum can b4 using your hose clamp. We align out pump half's using a clamp b4 tightening the bolts.
@@darrinstone49 Nice! I love hearing feedback from others 👍
Thank you for an excellent quality and informative video in this steering box and i feel i can not refer my jeeps' bot with out fear, will be subscribing to watch more of your work.
This has been so helpful, thank you for the info, details and quality.
I finally got mine back together after many tries and two steering boxes. I have over 360000 on my suburban and found the inside of the housing was actually grooved. The hardest part for me was the ball bearings. I couldn't get them in there right for the life of me. Finally got it though after I understood all those bearings are meant to be "trapped" between those two holes. Obvious to most people I'd guess but not me.
Sir...I don't know if you teach mechanics for a living...but you ought to do so.
....I have 2 college degrees, and I have never seen a better teacher. I thank ya sincerely for teaching me this procedure sir
Thanks for the kind words👍
Thank you very much for making this video. Beats the pants off a black and white chilton manual anyday!
Awesome how to video, you make it look so easy. Thanks.
Thanks again for the great instructions!
Question(s):
43:29 where does one obtain a new bearing for replacement? (Everyone I've found online wants to sell you the whole steering box, not internal parts)
45:16 how does one get that piece back in without destroying the O-ring? I've destroyed two o-rings (so far…) :(
Thanks!
The bearing number is listed in the description. Do a search online to see who has one. Add far as the O ring, be sure to have plenty of power steering fluid in it when you're trying to insert that part. Take your time and don't force it.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the reply, sir.
The bearing listed in the description is for the sector shaft; the bearing I was looking for is the one that goes inside the spool valve and supports the steering input shaft. The sleeve-looking item is the part I was having difficulties with the o-ring. The unit I have is a Delphi, though the instructions you provided mostly worked for it.
Was thinking I might have to go to a GM dealer (with fingers crossed) and see if their parts manuals list it. but thought I'd ask in case you had that part number handy.
BTW, do you know of any sites that might have access to GM's parts manuals?
Thanks again!
@@jbak6892 oh gotcha, sorry about that. Yeah that might be your best bet. I do not know where you could find one or a parts manual.
Great video and instructions , this will help me immensely.
Exceptionally well done video. Thank you!
Exactly what I needed to learn - first time to rebuild- pretty much anything. Of course I had to watch the video a half dozen times. However; I had confidence the whole way through the rebuild. Thanks Ron Staggs
I think this may be over my head but its a great video.
It's over your head until you watch the video and learn how to do it yourself 👍 that's why I make them. I had to learn too.
Thanks for this video. Following it to a tee. I'm at the part where piston goes back in and it won't go back in for nothing. I let it wrapped with that clamp for a few hours, then overnight, and now overnight again. This time I really tightened that that clamp down.
One observation. I had to buy two rebuild kits because I nicked up one of the seals. The Duralast kit I bought did not appear to have that little o ring for the spool valve. The Edelman kit did.
@@mattg5962 when you go to put in the Piston, have a ratchet with a socket on it on the end and twist as you're pushing it in, that helps
@@TheBFHGarage I got it in today, thank you.
Thanks, very thorough and detailed.
Good video. Great instructional value. Lots of the right kind of detail. One minor critique. Your guestimation is just a bit off on the number of turns. From my POV, it was 3 1/3 turns, therefore half of that would be 1 1/2, plus another 1/6 (or 1/3 of 1/2 turn).
Other than that minor issue, again, good video. Thank you.
Thank god man
Big help.
The steering is pulling to the right side .hopefully it’s gonna solve the issue .
This won't solve a pulling issue.
Awesome Video! You really do set the standard for Instructional videos. Question - You explained the differences in the OE bearing vs After market and it sounded like you favored the after market bearing. Then it looked like you used the shouldered OE bearing in your steering box. Did I misunderstand? Which bearing do you prefer and could you include part numbers and/or where you got yours - Please?
I use KOYO bearing BH - 2020. You can source them from anywhere. I'll put the part in the description.
A made in Ga, USA bearing that will outlast the box!
I caught that too. I noticed the spacing between each bearing.
Thank you! Fantastic tutorial. 👍
Excellent tutorial. Question: I have 1977 box with flare fittings for where hoses connect to box. My return line seeps where the return fitting threads into box. Is there a way to either clean up (or better to replace) the brass colored piece inside the box that mates with the flare fitting? Trying to improve the seal at this point.
@The BFH Garage at 1:03:50 you can clearly see the end cap is back on (while inserting the bearings) but at 1:08:22 you put your socket on the service cap to rotate to correct orientation. Did you Install it then remove it and then install it again?
Yes, I got ahead of myself and had to back up👍
@@TheBFHGarage So leave it off until you get it oriented? Cool. I've got a super leaky Saginaw on my '77 Cadillac Coupe. I went ahead and ordered the bearing. Now something that was already mentioned in a question but I didn't see a reply: You said the original bearing has a lip that keeps it from going in too far and the KOYO BH-2020 does not?
@@michaelvincent1 correct
@@TheBFHGarage Is there a way/trick to keep it from going in too far? Your video is great BTW!
@@michaelvincent1 drive it in to flush, install seal, dust shield, etc., and then tap from the back side until it's pressing on the other parts
Great video man! Helped out tremendously.
Excellent video! I’m fixing to have to rebuild one myself.
Excellent video, five stars
this guide helped me. i however found ONE ball bearing on my bench after reinstall >.> so far the box works but i have one less ball in that thing.
@@beardedgaming1337 better get that thing back in there
@@TheBFHGarage what kind of effect do you think missing one will heave? bunch of other stuff to fix so this is not high on my list atm
@beardedgaming1337 binding or locking up. I wouldn't just run it like that
Thank you for making the video!
I apologize if you mentioned this in the video, I admit that I skipped through just to get the gist: does this help eliminate any center play or is this strictly to address leaks? If not, is it possible to renew the worm gear and/or recirculating balls on these in order to tighten up the slop?
This addresses the leaks for the most part. Worn parts are worn parts no matter how you look at it. The one thing that can help is a new sector shaft bearing. I have it listed in the description.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the quick reply. So does no one supply new worm gears? Or slightly oversize balls?
@@birdrs not that I'm aware of
So why are you against adjusting the lash? What is worn that adjusting the lash solves? What parts am I meshing together to eliminate a sloppy steering wheel?@@TheBFHGarage
@@tim1299 It's not that I'm against it, it's just that adjusting it will rarely solve the problem. A steering gear with 300K miles will be worn and no amount of adjustment will fix that. Adjusting it tends to make it feel notchy and will lead to quick failure as the parts aren't meshing smoothly. Word of caution if you do decide to mess with your lash. First, make SMALL adjustments and test drive. Second, be ready for a plan B (different box).
Awesome video; best I’ve seen yet. Forgive me if you mentioned this, but did you orient the ball hoop to make sure the colors are still alternating? It seems like you could get the same colors next to one another if you weren’t careful.
Yes I did 👍
U took the time 2 give great inside. Gracias
De nada!
Excellent video!
22:20 what the name of the Tool that's used to release the bearing ? Can we buy it at Online Store ?
It's just a seal and bearing driver set. You can get them from harbor freight or Amazon
Very good video
Any tips on getting that end cap back on? Does it have to be pressed?
@@BrettJohnson-n1f no, not pressed. Get it going straight and use a rubber mallet. You can use a dead blow hammer too but be gentle.
I compared your video to the service manual. The service manual says that the pitman seal assembly should go in this order from inside to outside: Oil seal, Washer, Snap Ring, Dust Seal, Pitman Shaft Boot. Perhaps you don't have to hammer in the dust seal if the snap ring is already in? Did you intentionally reverse their order?
Great video. Do you have any advice on how to identify the seal kit required? I have a saginaw 800 box on my '51 Willys I'm going to rebuild but do not know what vehicle it originally came from. There seem to be an infinite number of seal kits available.
My suggestion is to call and talk to the people at power steering seals . com. They are very helpful and will help you get what you need👍
Excellent video, thank you.
Can you point me towards a span er wrench I can tighten the seal on the car. It's leaking from passenger Ford freestar and common on Taurus. A few inches deep pegs needed on recesses
If I find myself needing a tool like this I usually just make it. I focus solely on Jeep Wranglers so I'm sorry I can't be of much help here.
Excellent info, thank you!
It's necessary to loose the spool valve lug nut to install the piston and ball bearings???
That shouldn't be necessary for just that.
@@TheBFHGarage thank you
when putting the sector bearing do i have to lube the housing or keep it dry
I always lather everything in power steering fluid. Don't put anything in dry or you will damage the seals on parts that have them.
What are your thoughts on Red Head?
I think they have a great reputation. I've never run one but I wouldn't hesitate to. Everything I've read shows them as a solid product👍.
What seal kit did you use? When I look for them, there are many options and I can't pinpoint which one I need exactly. My steering box is just like the one you show in the video. Also, the bearing that I do see in the kits do not have the flange.
I haven't seen an aftermarket bearing that has a flange. The seal kit is listed in the video description box.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the quick reply. When I search that part number on their site, I get no results.
@@DavidSuzieNardozzi That's one of the reasons I don't like adding part numbers to these videos because they constantly change. I would go with what they have listed for your specific application.
excellent video ,Thank you !
Thanks awesome video. My steering gear box is shot I'm trying this rebuild kit..
amazing video, very well explained. would this be essentially the same process for a GM 2008 Sierra 2500 gear box? it is a 4 bolt top and looks nearly Identical to this box. But before I rip it out and tear into it I wanted to make sure. thanks
@@dcsann I can't speak to every gear box as they can have differences. Generally speaking, the process is usually the same. They might have a different number of bearings so pay close attention to the number that comes out. Also be sure to take photos and videos so you can see exactly how things come apart and go back together.
Great video, if I had only seen this one before I faught with mine The trick of shrinking down the teflon would have been nice to know. If the cap with the spanner nut is not marked is there a torque spec to start with? Also what about the lash adjuster?
The FSM will have a torque spec depending on the box. I've found that wheel the mark you set lines up is just when it starts to get tight. As far as the lash adjustment, I recommend that people leave that alone except under last resort situations. A box that had 200k miles on it can't be fixed by simply adjusting lash. Wear is wear and you can't get around that. People who adjust that lash need to understand that the box probably won't last much longer.
Great instructions and easy to follow job. For a 78 K5 Blazer, I intend to change the sector for a 2WD so I can retrofit a cross-over steering. Are those sectors interchangable for saginaw pumps? I mean similar year from a C10 vehicle.
I can't answer that question 🤷
Great video, very informative and thorough. How do you properly "clock" the input shaft so the gear box goes back in the jeep in the correct position for the steering shaft? Thanks again.
Before you take it out, make sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position. When you're done rebuilding the box, turn the input shaft all the way to one side. Count the number of turns and divide by two. Turn that much should put it really close.
Thanks for the quick reply. However, that is after the gear box is assembled, I was referring to how to clock it when putting it back together, so the flat spot on the input shaft is at the 12 o'clock position relative to the gear box being in the "installed" position. I am thinking it gets clocked correctly when you start loading the ball bearings with the piston all the way forward, and load the balls from the back hole using counter clockwise rotation of the input shaft? @@TheBFHGarage
@@jefreyjohnson4294 there is no need to clock it a certain way. When you start installing the ball bearings it can only go where it needs to be.
Also, here is another "trick" that I tried. Instead of packing the return rail, I put a bearing onto the worm shaft, rotate in counter clockwise a bit, then put a dowel behind the ball and rotate the shaft a bit clockwise. This pushes the ball down into the worm. If you keep doing that you can get all 24 balls into the worm without putting any in the return rail. Adding a bit of power steering fluid with an eye dropper, after a few ball, helps too.
I think that is because you have positioned the piston at the closest position towards the input shaft. Then the grooves in the worm gear are positioning the input shaft at the proper location for the steering wheel to be in the same position as when it was removed. The way I came about this revelation, was starting with the piston in the middle of the worm gear. Fortunately, I realized the issue before attempting to install it. Hope I am explaining knowledgeably. @@TheBFHGarage
Do you have a video to rebuild a Hydroboost unit that used on these steering units? Thank you
I don't
I stretch my teflon rings to apply & then clamp them afterwards. They will shrink back some by themselves but clamping using my aluminum strips. Check out the tools we use on say the 700R4 input shaft seals.
Awesome video! Thank you it helped me to rebuild the box on my 02 Nissan frontier. I have to ask though, how did you lose your fingertip?
😂.... Kick back on a tablesaw.
Where do you get your seal kits? Torrington bearing? Not in kits i see. Also there is a flat ring deep inside housing,is that a wear ring for spool valve?
Seal kit is in the video description. As far as the ring, are you talking about the flat bearing?
@@TheBFHGarage when you take end cap off,look way down inside bore,there is a flat,low tension ring snapped in a groove. Thinking it like a wear ring or spacer. My box says delphi out of 2004 chevy 4x4 2500
@@chrisdespain6949 I'd have to look at a factory service manual. I work mainly on Jeep Wranglers. This video was a 97-02
@@TheBFHGarage thanks for info. Still cant get def.answer from anyone on sector shaft bearing. Try n punch it out and see if i can get number off it.
@@chrisdespain6949 just reach out to powersteeringseals.com and I'm sure they'll help you find what you need.
As for the surface of the housing - How would you go about making it totally smooth? Let's say you wanted to get it real smooth so paint looked really good on it. How would you do it?
I would never waste time doing that. Stock boxes are cast and will be rough. If you want smooth but an aftermarket box.
@@TheBFHGarage Yes this would be for an old classic show truck that gets driven maybe 5k miles per year. I wanted to rebuild the box but I figured why not make it look nicer while I had it out.
Thank you for the detailed instructions in this video. I’ve got a box from a 98 Durango that I want to rebuild and tap for hydro-assist and install on my 97 TJ. I can find seal kits all day long but I can’t find any bearing information. I’d like to have all my parts before I start tearing it down. Do you have any information that would help me out with that? Thanks
I don't have numbers for the Durango. If suggest trying to call the place or cross reference a parts list.
Great video, and I am almost finished but my Spool Valve does not come apart as it did in your video. The adjusting Nut had a snap ring, which I removed but that nut plus the next piece does not just slide off. Something feels like it is holding it in place. Did I miss something? Thanks
Depends on what your steering gear came off of. This video is specific to a Jeep Wrangler 97-02 although most other early boxes are similar. See if you can locate a factory service manual for your vehicle.
If this is about a Wrangler, it can take some wiggling and manipulation to get it to come out.
I really appreciate the video. However, the ball bearings from my unit are very hard to discern the black from the silver. The color must've worn off over the years. Can you find out which is which by size?
Yeah some are just that way. You can try to measure with calipers. I've seen others just throw them in without concern.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for the quick reply. I think I will just purchase new ones. OEM part is only $35 for them. I have the service manual and it also says to alternate as you showed. I'd rather do it right once.
My calipers were not consistently finding a difference either.
@@TheBFHGarage For your or anybody else's reference, I measured all the balls twice with a micrometer. Half measured 279-279.5 thousandths; the other half measured 278-278.5 thousandths. The smaller pile does seem to look every so slightly darker, which complies with the service manual.
Once again excellent video. I took a deep look on how you doing it, because I have an issue on a similar steering gear box that I worked on. Everything I did was exactly the same as the video. But, when I put it on the test bench, after a full stoke, the pressure in the casing was so high that the 4 bolts from the cover just poped out of their holes... striped. The bench was ajusted to 1000 psi. The client's problem was a leakage from this cover. I use to work on hydraulic systems, motors, pumps, body valves etc. This was my first steering gear box. I don't know what is the problem at this point. Maybe the piston goes toofar and is open through the housing?
Wow!!! I have no idea, I've never experienced that before.
Great and helpful video. Appreciate the thorough information. I was wondering though you mentioned the koyo 2020 bearing not having a lip or edge and that you would cover how to put it in, but it seems like you used the same type of bearing with the recess or edge when re installing. Is it the same process with the koyo bearing?
Thanks again
The process is the same, just be sure to tap the bearing from the backside to make sure it's snug against the other parts when everything is installed.
Can I replace just the seals on the top input shaft by removing locking ring, adjustment nut, and piston?
@@malcolmbennett7231 you can but it might be difficult to get someone under the plastic spacer to pull it out.
So the kit that I have had two oil seals in the sector shaft housing area. Two different thicknesses, I cannot remember if their order in which they came out. Maybe some models had a oil seal on both sides of the sector shaft bearing?
@@brotherjesus4246 what is the box out of?
@@TheBFHGarage 1981 Ramcharger
Not sure about that one. That's why it's important to document with video and photos during the process!
In regards to my previous questions;
So the two seals one thicker and one thinner, otherwise no difference. I put the thicker seal in first (bottom) then a washer (supplied with kit) then the thinner seal with the open end facing up (my assumption on this one is to keep outside contaminants from entering into the steering gear) then the other supplied washer, then the snap ring. Flipped the steering gear over and snuggled everything up to the snap ring washer.
@brotherjesus4246 my guess is there is only one oil seal. Did they both have a spring in them? One is probably just a dust seal with no spring. When installing the seal, the spring side of the seal goes toward the bearing/box.
Nice barrel on the wall
What is the flat thing in the end of the input side stub shaft called? I didn't see it even mentioned in the rebuild. My gearbox is leaking through the hollow shaft and out of this part which looks slightly different than yours but similar. I'd post a pic but not sure how on here.
Tell me what time in the video to look at what you are talking about...
So sur,
In the event that your dterribg comes out of center in the cab...from ur dteer eherls hitying a curb and throwing ur sterring slignment off, fors the worm gear jump a tooth???
Ty, much appreciated.( all ny ither sterring parts and jounts are good) ty.
Vert der ferk? 😂
The sector shaft teeth are very large. I didn't see how it could jump a tooth. The steering gear would fail in a probable spectacular fashion.
So ehat exactky causes yhe sterring wheel inside the cab to change positioning...ty.
Do you know of a source for hard parts for these boxes?
I don't but I have spare parts laying around. What do you need?
Amazing job