BLtouch Bed Leveling Sensor - Everything Install - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 พ.ค. 2024
- In this one, I try to go over everything I can think of to help you install your BLtouch sensor.
00:00 Intro
01:15 SKR Mini Config
15:19 MKS 1.4 Config
20:40 SKR 1.4 Config
27:18 SKR 1.3 Config
34:46 Setting Z offset
37:50 Conclusion
SKR mini install:
• BLtouch Bed Leveling S...
MKS 1.4 install:
• BLtouch Bed Leveling S...
SKR 1.4 install: https:
// • BLtouch Bed Leveling S...
SKR 1.3 install:
• BLtouch Bed Leveling S...
Sensor mount:
www.thingiverse.com/thing:358...
Link to all the configs in this video:
drive.google.com/open?id=1QzR...
Tom's leveling print:
www.youmagine.com/designs/bed...
BLtouch commands:
M280 P0 S260 ;reset
M280 P0 S120 ;self test
M280 P0 S90 ;stow probe pin
M280 P0 S10 ;deploy probe pin
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Chris -- I have to commend you on the great care you take in your videos to keep our attention on track following your sequence of steps. And at every step you consistently say "now we do X, because reason, and you might also want to know this related thing". An approach that's thorough, clear and empathetic. Well done!
Thanks Graham for the kind words, very much appreceated.
Thank you, Chris another helpful tutorial for those starting in 3D printing and are upgrading. Keep them coming your doing a great job.
Thanks for the kind words Jamie!
Thanks to you, I finally ajdusted the 3D Touch ABL on my ender 3 with SKR mini e3 motherboard. I literally spent tons of videos and documentation to set z offset after ABL installations, yet nothing was up till I found your video +kudos!
Nice, glad it helped you.
Best channel out there by a country mile! Thank you so much for the detailed information you have helped me so much to get up and running! Keep it up!
Wow, thanks! I am glad these are helpful.
Huge thank you for all the valuable info on the channel! Recently upgraded to the Ender 3 Pro and have a SKR mini E3 and BLTouch V3.1 on the way so this video and the channel is a big help.
Great to hear!
I just got my BLTouch yesterday, thanks for making this!
Glad I could help!
OMG after weeks of trying to get a first layer down on my warped bed I got it. Supper thank full Chris, this is amazing truly. I'm not sure if you changed the SKR Mini firmware you had posted but wow I'm can now use more then 25% of my bed. You are an amazing craftsmen and teacher. Thanks you.
Awesome to hear, thanks for the kind words, I am glad it helped you.
You're the man!!! I have a couple BL Touches still waiting to be installed as I am making my own extension cables. Ahhh Dupont cables...so fun! This video comes at the perfect time for me. Thank you.
Glad I could help! Yes, dupont connectors, not my fav. :)
Way to go Chris! I have just flashed my Melzi board for the 1st time ever. I have a 3d Touch sensor but I have been reluctant to install it yet. I have 2 printers- Both Ender 3's - SKR v1.3 and Stock (Melzi) board. I will look at adding the 3d Touch to both. Both have the Bullseye fan mods, so I'll follow their guides for the offsets. Thanks for today's timely video.
Thanks Will! Good luck with your installs.
Just wanted to say thanks for your videos. They have been extremely helpful for me and certainly others. Great channel!
Glad to help!
Thanks Chris for the detailed tutorial, awesome work on all the BLtoucches and the boards.
Thanks for watching!
I just bought this exact mod package. So awesome to see this pop up in my inbox today!
Sweet! Have fun!
I have watched a lot of guys talking about 3d printing, but i can assure you, the you are the best!
LOL, thank you!
Love your tutorials Chris, you always make my head hurt😀
LOL, I do what I can! :)
THANK YOU!!! Yes, i did shout that! this was a massive help. Thanks again for putting the time into explain everything.
Glad it helped you!
OMG so many hours searching for why I couldn't home in marlin 2.0, I got no where and then you said marlin has a noise setting and I about cried. That fixed it and it is working great now.
That's great news!
Outstanding video. I have always been confused about what one to go. But now I need to figure out the settings and stuff for the creality ender 3 silent board 1.1.5
Thanks! You might have to remove some features to get it to fit on the silent board, but it can be done.
Another Info filled Tutorial, Thanks Chris, as always your on point !! keep up the great content !
Thanks Ron!!!
I have to say out of all the TH-cam channels, Teaching tech is good to but your channel is by far my favorite. I recently subscribed to your paetron and would suggest to anyone that gleams any help from these channels to please support this man!! 2 months ago I didn't know a thing!!!I have now updated my board to SKR Mini E3 v1.2 added TFT35 E v3.0, MicroSwiss, Currently about to try the bl touch out, compiled Vscode, etc. All in big part thanks to you!
Mike, thanks for much for the kind works and the support, much appreciated.
Yet another great video. I've got a 3D Touch probe that I've been thinking about installing to my Ender 3 with the SKR Mini E3 board, but have held back until now. Thank you. I've just told my mate, who recently bought an Ender 3 to watch and subscribe to your channel, as your my goto guy, as I put it lol.
Awesome Andy, thanks for the referral!
Thanks man! half way through and know all I need to know. Great job!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I have been trying to get my **** Bl touch to work for ages. Thanks to your video finally success! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
I honestly don’t understand how this channel doesn’t have more subscribers. Chris is like the Gamers Nexus of 3D Printers.
Ha! Thanks!
Yeah another great video as always, I'm learning so many things through their 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thank you! Glad to hear it!
Hi Chris hope you are well. Even though I don't have a bl touch seeing you go through the config I am starting to pick up some of the things on coding settings. Thanks for a great video you are the best at teaching this stuff. Be well my friend.
Zimmy, you're the best, man, thanks for all the support, we are doing well here, hope you and yours are doing good.
I love your videos. I do wish you would index them. They are so information dense it can be hard to find the section I remember watching when I go looking later. Thanks for the video!
We just started doing that. It may take a while to get to the older videos. Thanks for watching.
another great informative video Chris - thank you
Thanks Stephen!
Thanks!! Very well explained and it really helps to understand the why things are that way
Glad it was helpful!
really nice. thanks. Still have yet to try the BLtouch. think it will come though. Great run through.
Thanks James as always!
Thanks Chris. Another great, informative video.
You are very welcome!
Thank you for another great video!
That part at the end where you were adjusting the z offset wa super helpful. That is so much easier than the procedure I always went through! So thank you for that 😃
Awesome to hear, glad it helped you.
History dictates that after 1.0, 2.0 and 3.1, we should expect a BL-Touch NT or BL-Touch '95. I'd wait for XP or 7 !
10 is the place to be... ;-)
lol, love it.
Yea it all seems a bit too ... patchwork-y, frankly difficult. It's not mature yet.
Make sure to not use Vista or 8.0
Could also be USB, then we should expect a version 3.1 Gen2 for whatever reason.
Thanks my 3D goeroe . Another great video which is a awesome guide in the 3dprinting world
Glad you enjoyed it!
I have a a BL-Touch 3D on my ender 2, setup using Chris's settings on one of his previous videos. It works really well. They're much better than the magnetic sensors because I can change the build surface without having to change the first layer height. I'm upgrading the board on my ANET A8, when it arrives and will change the sensor on that from magnetic to a BL-Touch 3D. By the way Chris, I've seen plenty of people mention/use polycarbonate as a build surface. I thought I'd try acrylic (I couldn't find anywhere where someone else had tried it) as it's much cheaper and it works REALLY well. Too well in-fact. I had to sand the surface to roughen it up a bit so I can get the prints off! If you leave the surface shinny, you'll be smashing your prints off with a hammer because it works that well ! Sanding acrylic makes it much more hammer-free friendly.
Nice, I have tried acrylic before back when I was hang printing, I had the same results. Works pretty well.
Thanks again for the videos! One more videoof yours that saves the day for me!!! You are awesome!
Thanks, I'm happy to help!
wow great timing, mine arrived this morning!
Nice! Hope it helps.
Great video! WOW, so much detail!
Thanks Brian!
Awesome tutorial easy to understand. Simple, but detailed (hopes it’s easy as it looks 😂)
Only one way to find out! Thank you
Thank you, I haven't touched my old 3D printer for ages with the old BL Touch (think that was version 1), I also got a spare old BL Touch somewhere if I find it and maybe use it on my new printer Tevo Nereus, this does indicate BL Touch required.
Good luck with your projects!
Very useful video, thank you a lot Chris.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice test/review
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Thanks Asger for the continued support.
Wow, nice... thanks! just looking for a new bed leveling sensor
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video as always! Thanks a lot
Glad you liked it!
Bro just in time!! Not even playing man. My bl touch came in YESTERDAY. LOL wtf? I shorted my Orginal Creality board out changing my nozzle like a noob and had to buy an skr mini e3. So this video is PERFECT. That’s the exact mount I printed too. Somehow man, Your on my wavelength or something. I dunno I’m straight trippin rn. Also I followed your tutorial on how to hook up the skr mini e3. So basically you’ve taught me how to set up everything on my printer. Thanks man for real you have no idea. I’d happily donate a little money to you man if you’ll drop a link!
That's great to hear, I'm glad we are all sync'd up! LOL, all my links are in the video descriptions, but it is not necessary, happy to help.
Thanks for the help with the noise issue
Happy to help!
Very spiffy. The BL mount you selected even fits on my EnoMaker direct drive conversion. Guess it's time to order the BL.
Nice, hope it helps you.
really really thank you finally I fixed my bltouch sir 1.4 tmc2209 UART problem! Really thank you . You gain my subscription ! thank you :D
Glad I could help!
Chris when you are describing the #define BL TOUCH in the code. You say to comment out the line, when
you really mean un-comment. Simple mistake, but from watching your videos, I know you are one for
technical accuracy. Especially with code, one simple token somewhere that is incorrect making syntax invalid, is frustrating, as it is a mostly book-keeping, not reflecting on ones coding skills, and hard to find.
For experienced techs, no problem, they will pick up on it, I am just trying to look out for the novice.
With all that, thanks so much for making these videos and sharing your knowledge. You are a smart guy for such a young man. I have upgraded my Ender 3 Pro, using your videos, making the upgrades successful and complete and thorough.
I would hope that if I would make a simple mistake like this and you picked it up you would surely tell me, having my back. Say you know if we worked together on say some DOD mission critical stuff for say Northrup or Boeing, being both EEs or some other type of engineer. From listening to you it sounds like maybe you have worked in this field and are a natural egg head like me, and loving every minute.
Thanks Chris,
Rob
Thanks for the heads up. :)
I followed Teaching Tech's BLTouch guide for my Ender 3 v2 but I've never been able to get my probing grid right. It's always skewed to the left (-x). I'm going to download your configs and look to see what might be different in mine. Thanks for the super informative, in depth content!
Glad I could help!
I have an Ender 3 Pro (converted Direct Drive) BLtouch , 8 months old , if you want it you can have ... Great Video !!!
Hey Dan, thanks for the offer, not sure what I would do with another one. LOL
@@ChrisRiley it would make a great give away, built another bear , no room for it
@@dansteffee9759 I would take it 😜
Thank you, it was very helpful.
Glad to hear that! Thanks for watching!
Thorough work as always, sir. 👍V3 doesn't seem so bad, but I'm glad I got a v2 just the same.
Mine returned a 0.003520 deviation from 15 probes w/ my v2.1 BLTouch.
25:00 I had this happen after canceling a print very early. With Klipper you have to enable an option to move the axis w/o homing, I hadn't. I also hadn't set up a cancelation macro to raise the nozzle 15mm instead of just using M112. 🤦♂️ M112 left it too close to the bed so the self test failed after I restarted the firmware.
Not the focus of this video, but it'd be a good idea to bump the port speed to 250000. Doesn't hurt and might save some people having surface blobs later on.
Thanks man, good call on the baud rate.
Awesome job man !
Thank you!
Chris another awesome video!! your videos have gotten me this far!
Quick question, will the bl touch mount work with the MicroSwiss?
Yes, it should, it's almost the same size as stock.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, I actually found this remix for the MicroSwiss(Ender3); thing:4327179, Lets see what happens!
Great tutorial! Now all I need is to get it set up on my chitu board lol.
lol, I have never even seen one of those.
I would've loved a table with summary in the end. Too many numbers for a newbie like me to understand what will be the best bang for the buck for my ender 3 pro..
Noted, I think the new mini turbo board with the 3.1 BLtouch and using it as you Z min endstop is the way to go on that prniter.
I know for some of the clones some people recommend running in "software mode". I've never fully understood what SW Mode does. I had issues with the triangle labs clone in the past. But there are some settings you can enable in Marlin configuration_adv to "define BLTOUCH_LCD_VOLTAGE_MENU" where you can program "5v mode" via the LCD and it seems to write something to the probe via software. You only run it once and it seems to stick. That solved all of my Triangle labs probe double deploy and missed points weirdness that happened from time to time in the past.
Hey Eric, that is interesting, I was trying to understand what SW mode was.
You can use M420 to load the stored bed mesh info, instead of having to do a ABL at the start of every print.
Yes, you can also enable the G28 feature where it doesn't wipe the G29 map if you want to go that route.
Chris you seem knowledgeable man. Your videos are fantastic and much appreciated. Do you have time for a question sir? I just upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with BTT skr mini e3 v2, BTT tft35 touchscreen, x and y belt tensioners, direct drive, bl touch, dual z motor kit, 3d printed leadscrew bearing supports, creality glass bed. I replaced the crap EZABL with the bl touch that I like much better. I already had solid bed mounts from TH3D but I'm questioning the use of those and wanted to see what your opinion is on those. I bought a set of red aluminum wheels and better springs that everyone seems to love in case I decide to switch to those. The bed mounts measure within .001 inches of each other. My X gantry is within 1 mm of the bottom frame so it's level and the x gentry to the bed is within 1mm. The thick glass bed is nice to get a solid flat surface. When I'm printing the lead screw barely moves to compensate for the bed. When I was printing on lowes mirror tile it was thin and I think it bowed with the heat bed. Not sure if I should stick with the solid mounts or put the better wheels and springs on. What do you prefer and why? Thanks man!
Hey Mark, the larger springs seem to stay put pretty well, the stock ones not so much. For PLA where you bed is mostly at 60c either one works pretty well. If you just around to ABS or PETG, I would go standoffs. The heat change really seems to impact the springs. Either way I personally prefer the setup with ABL and standoffs. It just seems more consistent to do it this way.
Thank you all your videos and taking the time to answer our comments.
Quick question, why is your z offset value on the BLTouch coordinates set to 0, I can see why -40 and -12, but leaving it at 0 would mean that your probe tip is exactly at the same height of your nozzle tip isn’t it?
Thanx in advance!
Yes, that is correct, I set it later when doing ABL. I have an ABL video where I do this. I like to use babystepping to set it.
Chris Riley thank you for answering, I’ll look up for that video right now!
I think you have restored my sanity. I had been trying to get the BLTouch to work as both z-endstop and ABL probe on an E3 DIP, by using the Probe socket. Your set-up where you still used the microswitch on the E3 1.2 made me realise I had been trying something that just wouldn't work... or at least I couldn't make it work like that. I re-installed the micro-switch and away it went.
I then redid the wiring for the probe plug and put it into the z-min Endstop, changed the firmware and now just use the z-Min endstop socket for the BLTouch (homing & ABL). I guess the probe socket is really only good for levelling.... and is not meant to be used if you want the BLTouch for homing as well. Unless there is some Marlin setting that works for that?
I can't see any difference to the operation of the board, except that Z-homing now occurs in the middle of the bed (Z_Safe_Homing) instead of X0 & Y0.
Yeah, you could switch it in the pins file to use that probe port, but you would end up with the same thing.
Thanks for an awesome coverage of all the probes and common boards! Out of curiosity, and because you've got lots of probes, any simple way to get two probes going so that there's one on the left and one on the right of the nozzle? This way, there would be a true coverage of the entire print bed.
Not really.
But you could use a force sensitive sensor on the nozzle so that it uses the nozzle to home
Yeah, not sure if there is any code that could compare the 2.
The hero that 3d printers neeeeeeeed rn :D
And definitely the one they deserve..... Muuuhwahhhaaaa!
LOL, thanks!
Easy to follow lovely
Thanks so much 😊
Very detailed explanation thanks! Do you have a video on differences between, axis limits, bed area and probing area and how it affects the probing margins? I have a dual x carriage config and max movement of each axis does not necessarily use the entire bed size.
I don't, but I go over some of the settings in this video, th-cam.com/video/iwhbeD2AduA/w-d-xo.html
Chris Riley Thanks I found that because the travel of my x axis was not symmetrical I had to change PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT in configuration.adv Marlin2.0 bugfix. This replaces the the old variable _edge something. Difference is that this is a relative value. I believe the old variable had a coordinate for x,y.
Hey Chris, thanks for the extensive video for the BLTouch. Would you do an updated video for UBL on Marlin 2.0, too? I'm having trouble with UBL setup (also commented on your old video if you want to know what trouble :) ) and as your videos usually alleviate my firmware troubles I'd really appreciate it :)
Yeah, I can take another run at UBL.
@@ChrisRiley That would be very cool!! Bilinear works ok but UBL would really improve my first layer 😁
Wait.. i subscribed, have the bell activated, didnt get a notification..
I habe an original 3.1 i hope the knockoff is just as good👍🏻
My Geeetech knock off is not very good at all.
Hi Chris. Excellent video as always. I wanted to ask a question that I cannot seem to find information on as it doesn't seem to be discussed very much in any of the YT videos and it is about what to do AFTER ABL of any sort has been added to your printer. I cannot seem to understand why after adding abl, that people don't just hard mount the bed thus removing the springs. Wouldn't that eliminate the need to ever re-level the bed? I see most people still keeping there springs and wheels as per original after adding abl. I don't get it. To me keeping the springs and wheels WILL mean that one needs to periodically re-level the bed in order to keep the abl within measuring tolerances. Any help with this subject is greatly appreciated.
Thank you! Yes, after ABL the adjustment should no longer be needed or prefered. I am not sure why a lot of people leave them, just easier I guess. I left mine because I didn't intened to keep the BLtouch on that printer. If I do go with ABL and keep it I always make the be stationary.
Great content!!!!
Thank you!
brilliant video as usual chris but i have a question witch one out of all the 4 leveling modes is the most accurate i.e biliner ect
UBL is the more accurate, but not easy to setup. Biliner does a pretty good job if your printer isn't too far out of spec.
35:00
For those of us running good bed springs but highly warped beds, G29 will be set closer to 9 pts than 3 which will take a while to complete. I suggest manually sending G29 followed by M500 to store the mesh. Then add M420 S1, instead of G29, right after G28 to speed things along. I'm running a 9x9 😨 grid, but it doesn't change enough to matter between prints so G29 in start gcode would take forever and add wear to the probe.
This is essentially mesh bed leveling but instead of doing it manually, you are using the BL Touch to get the numbers But what happens if one of the wheels does move? You would still want to run the G29 from time to time just in case things change. Would agree though wouldn't be necessary for every print.
Yeah, for sure, I wouldn't want to run a 9x9 everytime.
I timed this on my Ender-3 as I was curious how long a 9x9 grid would take. I've got multiple probing turned on as I find it helps with accuracy so does add a bit of time there. But still, would not want to be running a 9x9 grid before every print :) So I think your idea of doing the 9x9 grid once and then just loading the mesh data with M420 S1 before each print is a good idea. Then you could run G29 periodically to see if there are any changes over time. Have you tried replacing the springs entirely with something like silicone solid bed mounts? Just wondering if this would extend the time between having to periodically redo G29.
Firmware Settings:
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2
Z_PROBE_SPEED_FAST / 2 (this is default)
5x5 Grid: 4:35 (275 seconds) / Time Per Probe: 11 seconds
9x9 Grid: 14:18 (858 seconds) / Time Per Probe: 10.6 seconds
@@mikeneron Thanks for the numbers!
Hi Chris love your content as always. I am waiting on my BLT to arrive and my setup is E3PRO with SKR_MINI_REV1.2. I would like to keep my limit switch for homing Z-AXIS and have edited Marlin 2.0.7.2 for my BLT and it compiles OK. My confusion lies in how i should setup my Z offset for the probe should i just leave it at zero or am i missing something. Also how do i enable probing to start automatically before each print . Hope i have explained things correctly.
In your start Gcode you will need to put a G29 after your G28 to get it to level before each print. When you home with your endstop, that will assume you are at Z 0. Then you will run a G29 level, there will be an offset from there, so the offset will be the difference from where you probe triggers to where your nozzle touches.
@@ChrisRiley Thank you Chris for reply appreciate it still waiting for BLT in post cant wait to get it setup.
Chris - thanks for video, however, when you setup the probe NOT to replace the Z-axis end stop micro-switch, I was unclear as to now the location I have to have the z_min set to with the microswitch. It seems to me that I would have to have nozzle to be able to go closer to the bed than my microswitch would allow, as you were setting the Z-offset into a negative number. but my microswitch stops at the 0, which my nozzle is my piece of paper thickness away from the bed. What am I missing here?
Not sure if I understand fully, but your offset doesn't come into play if you are using a Z switch. Your Z switch still intends your nozzle to be at 0 when you are at home. The Z probe offset is just intend to set the difference between the probe and nozzle height. When you use the switch that sets you to 0 then you G29, the probe maps the bed, it might find low or high spots. Then it will instruct the printer to go positive or negative Z to compensate from the 0 position set by the switch.
Thanks for the video, I'm getting into the bltouch and this was super helpful to understand. I have a problem though, I have used your firmware for the SKR mini. When I go to level bed with the bltouch it only probes the first out of the 9 points and stops. I've put G29 into my printer gcode and when it goes to print, it does the first probe and then an error occurs canceling the print. I don't know what i need to fix in order for it work properly. Some guidance would be greatly appreciated!
Hey Rob, bump your Z probe offset up, set it to like -1.5 and see if this problem goes away.
According to Reprap wiki, the proper fix for noise isn't software, it's a 100k ohm resistor (in parallel with crappy switch). Most boards that come with cheapo printers with switches without these resistors do actually have that resistor on the board, for custom boards like SKR it might make sense to solder it on the pins of the switch, or buy one of those switches that come on a tiny board - that has a 100 k ohm resistor on it.
Edit: Bigtreetech's Aliexpress store has these switches with a board for less than a dollar. So if you're ordering an SKR board - might make sense to get that. Or go sensorless on X and Y, using BLtouch instead of the Z min switch. I think this is a good idea in general, because the repeatability of that mouse button switch is actually worse than that of a BLtouch, so all it's doing is interfering with bed level, you can do Z safe homing near a corner too if that's how you like it.
Interesting that they have those boards available. Good to know.
Great deep dive videos Chris. How do you find proximity style sensors vs BLTouch for accuracy or repeatability?
Thanks! I just ran a test on the SKGO, moving super fast on Z 10000mm/m doing just one probe I can hit 0.005477 so not to bad for 3 bucks.
Question about using a probe and a Z endstop. Did you just use it here to demonstrate or do you use it for working printers?
Mainly how to make sure that the endstop is on the same level as bed? If your endstop is too low, the nozzle will crash, if it's too high the Z0 will be too high as you can't move the bed lower because the endstop will stop the gantry from moving lower.
I would like to move to that configuration as my printer destroyed it's bed 3 times I rewired everything to be sure that it's not wire problem. It probed the bed, failed to detect the bed and then still goes with the gcode, so it just makes trenches with hot nozzle in the bed. 1 time with hot nozzle it again fail to detect the bed and just halted the printer with hot nozzle dug into the bed making a hole in it... (why is there no option in marlin to move the nozzle up x mm after g28 fail...
Mostly for demonstration. I just use the Z probe for Z homing. This really only works with the endstop if your nozzle homes off the bed or Z doesn't home at 0.
Chris - great video again. I read through as many as I could but couldn't find if you already answered. Have you figured out a way to get the BLtouch to work with the SKR1.4 without using an additional endstop? I got my bltouch working using the probe connection for bed levelling, but cannot get it to work for the z-probe endstop. Any thoughts?
It should work in that config, if it doesn't it's probably a pin conflict of some kind, Z endstop uses pin 1_27, that is also the Z diag pin. If you clip the Z diag pin on the Z driver it should work.
@@ChrisRiley I do have the diag pin clipped - still cant get 'er to chooch.
@@bobbyshoe8621 Hmmm, the only other thing I can think of is the white and black wire are flipped. I will have to take a look on one of my boards.
Chris Riley That would be awesome Chris. Let me know if you figure anything out. Seems to be a popular problem from the googling I have done. Thanks!
Ehy Chris, really nice videos! I'm waiting for the skr mini 1.4 and then I'll go for the BLTouch for my Ender 3 Pro!! Can you tell me the name of the feeder(extruder) that you have mounted on? I want to change the stock one, but I still don't know which I should choose.
This is the one I use. www.seemecnc.com/products/ezrstruder
I ordered mine a month ago, been sitting in customs in LA for 2 weeks now.
I have heard that alot lately.
Your BLtouch is quarantined
Update, it wasn't stuck in customs, it's just Amazon's tracking that's not updating. Amazon says no updates since may 6th but its 1 state away as of 2 days ago. I still don't have it though which is disappointing
Hi Chris, do you have a video for using the bltouch for bed levelling and Z probe on the skr 1.4 Turbo because this is the one that is confusing people as using the dedicated Bltouch probe pins dosen't seem to work
I might not, but maybe we need a video for that.
Good video. I am using it to set up my 3d touch, e3, skr mini v1.2. One problem is that on bilinear set to 3, the nozzle is off the bed on the right hand side of the bed. I am using 20 instead if 10 on the edge parameter to avoid the rather large clips holding down my glass bed. Probe is left and front if the nozzle (-40, -10) in my case. Bed size is correct 235x235. Any idea what I am missing? Video says as long as bed is set up correctly, probe points should calc automatically.
So, where is your nozzle when you home? Is it off the bed? If it is, you will need to set those values as a negative in you min home values. Also, make sure your offsets are in affect, clear out eeprom. M502 then M500
Doh...stupid me! Just realized the probe is sampling near the right edge of the bed and of course the nozzle is off the bed since it is roughly 40mm to the right of the probe. Thanks though for answering even the stupid questions!
Hi Chris, thanks for the excellent work, your videos have helped me a lot. I was hoping you might help me with one final issue? I've installed skr mini e3 1.2 with a BLtouch 3.1. bed leveling seems to work (probes nine points on the bed) but when I print a test, it doesn't seem to compensate for the different levels of the bed (one corner prints too high and another prints too close to the bed). Any ideas how to fix this?
Hello, what does your map look like? Most of the time when you see this it's because the x gantry skew is too great. You might have to level it out a bit to get a better map.
need to make a custom 5 pin wiring hatness for my BL Touch using Dupont connectors on one end and JST-PH 2.0 on the other end. Should I go with 24 gauge wire which is the max for the JST-PH 2.0 connector or somewhere in the middle for both connector types. Or can i just use a Antclabs BL Touch extension cable and swap out connectors. Thanks for your help in advanced.
I usually go with something in the middle because it's easier to work with, like 26. The antclabs wire would be fine as well.
Question I like to change nozzles and layer heights, for example my 0.4 nozzle I'll manually tram the bed to 0.2mm using a feeler gauge then do the manual bed leveling to 0.2mm as well for all 9 points,. And when I use a size 1mm nozzle I'll tram and bed level to 0.5mm using feeler guages.
If I get bltouch will I be able to tell it the different heights to level too? Or is it stuck to only one height?
You would have to adjust the Z offset to make the change. You can do that with a gcode command in your slicer if that would help automate the process.
Hi chris, my bltouch 3 is running ok on skr1.3, I´ve calibrated z offset with m851 and first print after g29 run ok. But on second print, after g29 on gcode the print starts above the bed level, it´s like it´s adding the z offset over the g29 mesh. If I force and run the z offset with m851 a m500 again, it works ok again. Is ther ea way after g29 to respect the z ofsset on marlin and the g29 levelling for every print? thanks!
It should always respect the offset after the G29 and not wipe it out. So if you run a g28 then g29 what does your eeprom look like after?
A question I am unable to find an answer for. I am using a Antclabs V3.1 BL-touch in a Hiprecy Leo printer. This printer has a bunch of strong magnets glued in the alu-hotbed. My first layers are irregular in the middle in over the whole Y axis and also at the left and right side albeit less, and I notice the printer is making correcions in Z while printing in these areas. It also happens to be the magnets are glued in the hotbed at these locations; these are glued in a |+| pattern in the bed. Are the magnets affecting the BL-touch measuring results?
I never really thought of that, but they could indeed. Some firmware, like Prusa, compensate for inductive probes caused by this issue, but I have never seen someone do it for a BLtouch.
Thank you for your answer Chris. I am currently probing the bed in a 6x6 grid. I will test probing the bed with a 3x3 grid; just probing the "magnet areas" and see what happens....
I'm trying to set up a BLTOUCH and a BIGTREE TFT24-V1.1 with touch screen on a BTT SKR E3 V1.2. I gather that the touchscreen uses a serial port and so does the printer (an ANET A8). Do I need to setup Serial port 2 as well as serial port 1? And what do I set them to (I saw you suggest -1 for serial port 1, but what for serial port 2)? Thanks Chris.
For using the TFT, set serial to 0 and serial 2 to -1.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris! Got it working now.
Does sensorless homing in marlin 2.0 work with corexy settings? (Both motors are moving to home either x or y)...and can two hard stops be used with sensorless homing on corexy machines with marlin 2.0 on the z axis when two independent steppers are used to raise the bed.I've been suffering from one z motor stalling and the other carrying on resulting in a big manual bed level exervise..can i at least reduce the effort required when this happens by fitting two hard z stops....also can i use this withe the dual z output on the BTT skr 1.4 controller?
Thanks JH
And
Yes, sensorless homing works on corexy, I use it all the time. You can do two endstops on Z, it's easy to enable in configuration_adv.h
Crack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Me salvaste!!! thanks a lot for share
Welcome 👍
about the issue of the endstop (ground) noise (26:19) had the problem with my ender 5+ and the skr 1.4 turbo.
after i detached the endstop wires from the steppermotor wires (flat ribbon of 6 wires) the problem was solved.
Nice find, I run into that a lot it seems. I have thought about making some PCBs to plugin to add a pull down easily.
Hey, Chris thanks for the tutorial! I'm using the mini E3 Probe self-test, deploy and stow all work. When I try g28 home then g29 auto bed level probe moves to first position probes moves up then the printer HALTS M112 .
Have any clues? The only thing I have found is a suggestion not to use the probe but use the z-home connector.
Try to increase your Z offset. Try M851 Z-2.0
initialize EEprom and all works now.
Hi Chris Love the channel. I need some help I have a ender 5 and I upgraded it to a skr1.4turbo and 2209 stepper drivers and a added bltouch. The problem is that the bltouch keeps blinking and the probe keeps going in and out. Is there anyway you could fetup the firmware for me I do not think I have it right.
If it is cycling like that, it might not be the firmware. I would try adjusting the set screw on top of the sensor first.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks alot. They may be my problem. I took that out. I did not know that was supposed to be in there. Thank you.
What's up Chris! I'm a new subscriber of yours and just want to sincerely thank you for your additions to the TH-cam 3DPrinting Community. I think the way you present the information is among the most thorough and helpful. Despite my best efforts, I cannot get my SKR Mini E3 V1.2 and BLTouch configured and working. The part that's crazy is that all seems great until going to level the bed. It performs the test at the first lower left corner and then quits. I have verified all is wired correctly and tried following these directions several times over. I have no idea what to do now...so discouraging. Any help you could provide would be awesome. Thank you!
Hey Will , thank you and welcome to the channel. With the BLtouch or any sensor Marlin has a very narrow range it will work in to keep the printer safe. Make sure your mount meets the BLtouch specs. 5020dafe-17d8-4c4c-bf3b-914a8fdd5140.filesusr.com/ugd/f5a1c8_d40d077cf5c24918bd25b6524f649f11.pdf Also, there is ABL debug, you might try to uncomment that and see what it is trying to tell you. //#define DEBUG_LEVELING_FEATURE
Chris Riley Thank you. I’m nearly certain my mount meets the criteria. I checked it once before, but I will check again very slowly this time...could certainly have missed something. I really hope that’s the case and that I find the issue. This is all quite frustrating. Haha!
I'm had the same problem, even tried BigTree's compiled firmware. Everything works, but it only probes one spot, then quits. I'm using Creality's Ender mount HERE'S THE ANSWER: Your Z-Offset has to set in the 2.00- 3.00 range. I took out my calipers and measured the distance from the probe, to the nozzle. I set my initial Z-offset to -2.5. It's now working!
Thank you guys. I checked it all and I was in the BLTouch range...verified approximately 3.4mm up from bottom of nozzle. However, the initial Z offset WAS the answer. I set mine to -3.4 and its probing all 9 points. Thank you both for your help!
Now, on to bigger problems...I can't compile anything anymore. For whatever reason, I'm falling victim to this "include errors detected" problem. I have no idea what to do. Programming is NOT my strength. Quite the opposite.
@@willlandreth7762 What is it complaining about?
Hey Chris! awesome video and explanation as always!! I think I have to enable the noise threshold but I dunno how can that be diagnosed. When I enter M119 in pronterface, the status of my bltouch says "TRIGGERED" even if it is not triggered. Is that a diagnosis for the noise threshold? or that's cause I connected the signal pin (white cable) in a wrong slot? I can say that I connected the servo cables correctly cause the probe moves fine (the initial movements when you tun the printer on work with no problem) so, is that the "noise" thing? or do you think is something else?
Sorry if this is like a huge comment and very specific question, but undoubtedly you are, like, THE PESON for this kind of things xD
you rock man
On the BLtouch, it's probably the white and black wires, make sure the white one is on the signal pin.
@@ChrisRiley yep, they where swapped 🤦🏽♂️ thanks a lot man! 🙌🏽
Hi Chris :) thnx for your vids man :) have you made a video om how to use a endstop switch as a bed level sensor?
Greets From Norway
Hey, I haven't, I always kicked that around, but never got to it.
Any videos coming on the new SKR e3 turbo board? I'm currently trying to set up my cr-10 mini with a microswiss direct drive, dual Z, and bltouch. Not a lot of info on the new board so any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Not yet, I am still trying to get a hold of one.
Right on! Good videos. Subscribed!
Also, I ordered a the regular skr e3 mini from Amazon and received this new board. I had no idea what it was. Soo if you are trying to get one you could go that route. It was skr e3 mini "Amazon's choice" prime. I'm not the only one that got it by mistake either.
@@chadclark3147 Interesting, i'll take a look.
do you have any data regarding the minimal range of the bl touch from the extruder ? (i heard it should be at least 12 mm)
All I have is what the doc says. 5020dafe-17d8-4c4c-bf3b-914a8fdd5140.filesusr.com/ugd/f5a1c8_d40d077cf5c24918bd25b6524f649f11.pdf
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge here! I am having the same issue as another person below using the 1.2 mini board and 3.1 Touch, I built firmware without touching any files from SKR_mini folder in the zip file. When executing "M48 x110 y110 L3 P10 V4" the extruder goes to the middle of the board extends the BL Touch and then goes down, touches the probe, retracts and shows the M112 error.
When I try to print, the probe is off to the side and the head runs into the bed and I get the same M112 error. It's as if the offset is not working and I checked it "X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -40" and "#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -12"
Any ideas?
Basically them same
@@mikemcloughlin7844 you are having the same issue?
I think you are running into a probe fail because of the distance it take to get the probe to the bed. It is probably impacted by the probe mount being used and the fact the 3.1 has a longer pin. Try changing this #define Z_PROBE_LOW_POINT -2 to -5 see if that allows the probe to be successful.
I had this same problem as well. To fix it I had to set the probe offset for Z to something closer than 0 to get started. Try setting it around -2 to -3 mm to start. That should get it close enough to start working and you can set it from there later.
Not sure if you know this chris but ion Marlin 2.0 you can set your probe offset now with M854 X -40 Y-10 just like when you do your Z offset. No more recompiling marlin if you change probes. and is also saved to eprom :)
Thanks Jim, know I have seen that, but never thought about it. Thanks for the tip.