Big Tree Tech SKR Mini E3 V2.0 - Silent Main Board - Install - Chris's Basement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 พ.ค. 2024
- In this video, we look at the newest version of the Big Tree Tech SKR Mini silent mini board from Big Tree Tech. The version 2.0 fixes a lot of issues that were seen on previous boards as well as adds new features while keeping the same price point.
00:00 Intro
01:16 Board Comparison
05:56 Board Installation
11:16 Firmware
22:52 Conclusion
Links to the SKR Mini V2 on Ali Express:
geni.us/1GxFzG
Link to Marlin Firmware:
marlinfw.org/
VS Code video:
• VSCODE - Edit Marlin F...
ABL video:
• BLtouch Bed Leveling S...
2209 Video:
• TMC2209 Stepper Driver...
SKR Marlin Config Video:
• BigTreeTech SKR Mini -...
Firmware.bin file:
drive.google.com/file/d/1bBWb...
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The timing of this video could not have been better. Thank you. You're one of the best channels in this community 👍
Wow, thanks!
I agree, Chris is the man. No nonsense, just plain old knowledge.
Yea, he is the diamond in the rough!
I am glad there are people that take the time to make videos like this to help others learn. I love watching your videos and have learned quite a bit from them. Thank you for doing what you do!!
Thank you! I'm happy to help
This got me sorted from start to finish, thank you!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Great! Thank you
Super job with the video! My new BTT SKR board arrived today and this video included everything I needed to get it running and then add my own settings and adjustments to my customized Ender 3 printer.
Sweet! I'm glad it was helpful
Best tutorial available anywhere. If you're having issues with getting your printer working, just get the hardware that you see in this video and follow along. Chris is going step-by-step which might seems unnecessary but if you're new to 3d printing it's very much appreciated. Keep up the good work Chris!
Thanks!
Once again, this and your BLTouch video was a huge help in setting up my new CR-10s. Thanks!
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
@@ChrisRiley Sooo, got the CR-10s up and running with the BTT SKR mini V2.0 and it won’t read from the SD card. I’m able to load the firmware via the SD, but I can’t load a gcode file to print from - doesn’t show the option on the screen. Any tips of where to look at? I have to use Pronterface to print from.
@@hawker800mech So does the card work at all? Only thing I can think of is try another card or format the card again.
@@ChrisRiley it does - used it in my laptop and loaded through Pronterface. Tried other cards and tried reformatting. Right now I have Octoprint connected so I don’t have to use the usb slot. At least I can load firmware through it, though. Thanks.
Great job on this video. like the comparison at the end to the Ender 3 V2.
Thanks for watching
Chris your explanation is outstanding. I'm waiting for my Ender 5 to arrive & ordered the SKR V2.0 board with it. I am a completely new to 3D printing this will be my first time & gotta say its a bit intimidating having to config things at this level. Watching most videos has left me a bit confused, esp since I have never used Github before & your style of explanation has given me way more confidence - much appreciation, well done!
Thanks! Good luck with your projects!
Thank you for taking the time to explain this stuff. Very well explained. You are awesome. Thank you for taking the time to explain this. Stay healthy brotha!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video, helps take the fear out of upgrading the board. 🙂
For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!
@@ChrisRiley yup! Thanks again! 🙂
this is the best and most comprehensive vid for the installation. appreciate u bossman
Thank you!
Just put my SKR v2 in my Ender 3 Pro, The drivers are CRAZY SILENT with these step motors and it runs SOOOO much smoother and faster. I was super concerned about building a new firmware for my board but this tutorial was perfect and taught me a TON!!!! Such a great upgrade. Gonna put in my BLTouch tomorrow or sometime next week, I also have the FTF70 7" touchscreen to do but wanted to get this installed and the machine speed up so when I print the casing it doesnt take me forever and I get the best quality. For now this get the thing running flawlessly!! Thanks again.
Great to hear, I am glad this was helpful!
Fantastic video. Answering questions that are constantly spammed/asked across many forums. Thank you !
Great to hear! Thank you
as usual a nice video. I use your videos as tutorials for people here whenI want them to learn the basics. Thanks for that.
That's what I'm here for. Spread the knowledge!
Chris Riley thanks for that. Makes the community a better place.
I don’t understand how this channel has only 35k subs....., keep up the good work!
Thanks!
Thanks Chris, this helps a ton with my upcoming printer upgrade. Two thumbs up and keep up the good work!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
I'm 74 years young and brand new to this, Chris has been a lifesaver! He does talk a little fast but I know how to back up and play it over again. My new BTT SKR is working great, now on to his other video on how to add a BL touch. Thank you very much Chris.
I've been told I'm a little fast, some videos are better than others. Thanks for watching
Somewhere in the video settings it lets you slow down the video. It might help you not need to rewind the video.
Possibly the best video on the SKR Mini E3 V2. You get right to the point.
Got this board last week and added this and the TFT35 V3 to the ender 5 plus. Got 2 very minor issues related to re configuring a pin for an extra fan and hotend trying to move beyond the the beds x/y bounds.
Think this tackles the re configuration issue. Will give that a try later.
Nice! Hopefully this will be helpful.
@@ChrisRiley This was a huge help in figuring how to edit the configs and compile everything. One thing I did different was in platformio.ini, I had to change default_envs to "STM32F103RC_btt_512K" instead of "STM32F103RE_btt".
Yo man! Great video! I love how you showed how to use PWM for the hot end fan to turn it off below 50c! I love it on my machine! Thanks man, love every videos you've made!
Thank you so much!
Great video, ordered some upgrades for my Ender 3's but those Heatsinks SO CROOKED!
Admiral, Thanks for the great video!
Lol... Thanks, it was a field promotion.
Chris you films are the best man, the detail of description is grate (THANK YOU). I wish I had gone for the v2.0 board instead of the v1.2 board just for the FAN1_PIN control, cant control it on the 1.2 board
Thanks man, yeah, that is a big improvement for sure.
Nice this video came just in time😄, I just ordered one yesterday 👍🏾
Hope you like it! Thanks for watching
Great walkthrough
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thank you, I'm glad you like it!
Question for you.
Thank you!! :)
So I have spent the better part of the last 24hrs trying to troubleshoot my 3Pro to the point ordered a 2nd BLTouch for troubleshooting. I swapped out the Creality 4.2.7 for the Mini E3 with their touchscreen combo I got from Amazon the other day. Z would not home at all, just sit there are deploy/retract the BLTouch needle a few times then timeout. Watched this video combined with your BLTouch one and I obviously was missing something before because now it is working again!
You are going to be my first stop from now on, for troubleshooting. I am so happy right now, you have no idea. THANK YOU !! :)
Awesome, glad it helped you out!
amazing detail, helped a ton!
Glad it helped!
Just ordered the board and touchscreen combo. This was the best video covering Marlin. I've done 1 Marlin config 32bit board before, but I needed a serious refresher. Lol
I'll have to tweak my E steps, turn on Auto PID function because it's so handy, set bed size to 235x235, tweak BLtouch probe offset from nozzle, and that should be about it.
Awesome, thank you!
Hi there Chris!
I found your channel when I ordered this board a couple of weeks ago. Great stuff you got going here. Keep up the good work! Now to my question. How high do you think I can crank up BUFSIZE? I'm running Octoprint and I know there's been a lot of discussions about this. I got a CR-10 Mini with everything stock except for the board now.
BUFSIZE to baudrate and all that, I am not really sure, that would be a question for the Marlin gurus. The Marlin discord folks will be able to answer that.
First of all, thank you for the installation guide, took me a while but got it done. Second, wow. Wow those drivers make the motos illegally quiet, I knew the difference would be big but I didn't think that it would drop the steppers noise below that of the stock fans, guess I need to upgrade those too now.
Lol! If it ain't one thing, it's another! Thanks for watching
This helped me to compile the firmware for my CR10s thank you very much!
That's great!
Chris, the fan pins you used for the hot end are setup for the MB fan, It’s is controlled by firmware but the reason it came on is during any movement by the steppers the MB fan comes on which was always on on the 1.2. My hot end fan is on all the time with the constant power setup...cheers as I got further in the video I saw you figured it..
Thanks, yeah I got it sorted, but that is an interesting feature.
Hello Chris,
I just love your channel, thank you.
I am curious, I have an Anycubic Kossel Plus printer. Can I change the Trigorilla board to a SKR Mini 3e V2.0? I really like the board since I just recently changed the board on my Ender 3.
Thank you for your assistance.
Dusty
Thank you! Yes, that should work just fine. I am thinking about changing mine to a 1.4 board.
Thanks for the detailed explanation. This is super helpful.
If I'm not adjusting the speed of my hotend fan and the rest of my ender3 is stock, are there any changes that I have to make for the v2 board?
No, it should be a direct swap out, no changes needed.
@@ChrisRiley thanks!
I use it on my Ender 5 with TFT3.5! It‘s amazing and after some problem it works perfect!
That's great! Thanks for watching
Thank you for the Video ! Do you know Why the bedleveling is not saving the values? After a succsesfully bedleveling the nozzle during the printing is away up from the bed.
That is usually the Z offset that caused that. If will need to be adjusted after the bed level is ran.
Thanks Very informative !
I hope that maybe in the future when you discuss the BL Touch setup you discuss in the configuration you will talk about configuration adv. h with the bl touch setup
Thanks
Will do, I will make a note of that.
@@ChrisRiley please do :)
Great video as always Chris. I wonder how you got a hold of the hemera hotend. I wonder if it is as great as i hope it is. I want to replace all my printers cuz im sock and tored of leaking v6 hotends.
I got mine over at PrintedSolid, they are back in stock. I really like it and it's pretty affordable.
@@ChrisRiley have you had any problems with it leaking? This is a notorious problem on my prusas with v6 hotends. I have done all the tricks on the web but they still leak a bit.
@@EspenShampoo25 I would say about the same as the V6.
Cheers Chris. If I'd actually seen the fan cover mod, I wouldn't even be doing this! The reason I bought the board was because I dropped a couple of nuts in the fan (Didn't realise that's where they'd gone) whilst doing a fan upgrade on the hot end.
Said nuts fell through the fan and shorted the OEM board when I turned it on.
Oh man! I'm glad you got it fixed!
Quick warning. Just did this exactly how Chris did it. Found out that the colors for the hot end thermistor and heated bed were swapped. To avoid any problems, do the following:
1. Once configured, set the heated bed to 50c and feel it for any temp change.
2. If it does not change in temp or it shows the temperature of the nozzle increasing, simply swap the connections and repeat. Don't just assume that the wiring is correct like I did. Made the mistake and my heated bed started increasing in temperature almost immediately. Error was given and had to swap the wires. Fixed the issue. Just wanted everyone to know.
Thanks for posting this info.
Nicely done. Thank you!
Thank you!
As always great video, however why are you using the STM32F103RE_btt when your Chip is the STM32F103RTC6?
Thanks, honestly, I didn't look. Both will work, but yes, you should go with the one closes to the exact chip.
Hi Chris this a little bit off topic but you helped me so much with my ender 3 now I have a question about my cr10 :-)
I am going to change out the main board to a mini e3 v2.0 like I did on my ender 3 but not sure about the marlin 2.0 setup for it,
if i used the setup from the ender 3 what do you suggest i change, for it to be compatible?
I use your setup with bl touch settings and it the ender 3 works great!
Again Thanks
Hey, that will be a super simple change. Those machine are very similar. I would just increase bed size and Z height to match the CR10. You might what to lower the acceleration a bit because of the heavier bed, but the rest should work fine.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for the info, I was not sure about the 3d touch sensor
Who gives Chris these promotions? He's an admiral now! Excellent video
Thanks! My wife refuses to call me Admiral. I guess I lose the title when I come up from the basement. 😉
While I'm waiting for my new board to arrive, watched like 5 times this video. It is so helpful, thanks for that!
Can I ask about your aluminum heated bed? It seems to have a PEI sheet right? No removable. Correct me if I'm wrong. I'm interested in that too!
Thanks again, big fan from Argentina.
Correct, it's just a PEI sheet, not removeable.
Well done, as usual! I don’t need another printer, but almost wish I had one so I could try out Marlin 2.x. If only someone had turned Paulo’s filament box sized printer into a kit or at least a detailed BOM and assembly instructions.
It's a pretty cool little printer!
Quick note Chris on the TFT touch display if the Black cable is inserted on the wrong slot on the screen end it will give Heatbed Temp fluctuations, I did have it on the wrong slot and it happened on my Ender 3, swapped it to the correct position and it went way, awesome little board with many features.
Thanks for the tip!
I do have a question though, what do you consider or what did I say to Max temps are for the hot end in the bed? And then what kind of increase can you get on that by breaking off the MOSFETs?
What did it say* sorry I dictated that and should have checked first lol
So it's really not about max temp as far as the board goes, the hotends, you see 50w heaters, about any mosfet will run it. Now beds, you can really only expect to get around 120c max on DC, and if it's over about 220x220 the load can get really high, above 11amp. That is where you need to look at the loads and consider moving that to an external mosfet. I would have to look up the chip numbers to tell you max load. A lot of us go to AC beds for this reason.
Installed my v2 using this video, thank you.
I do have a problem though, on the menu I have no bed leveling, how do I get this back onto my menu to enable manual bed leveling via mesh and/or corners?
Problem solved, lol
lol, glad you found it!
@@aussiedream69 Care to share how you fixed it??
Thanks for the walk through. I got to building Marlin in PlatformIO and it complained that STM32F103RE_btt was not compatible, recommended using STM32F103RC_btt which built successfully. Not sure what the difference is ...
Really the only difference is the RC is forcing it to use 512k, not sure how that all works, but I always use RC now.
Chris thanks for your help. :)
That's why I'm here. Thanks for watching!
hi Chris watched a lot of your videos and you inspired me to build my own printer with the e3v2 but i dont know which board to select in platformio could you help me please
Hey, sure, you can use a couple of the chip and it will work the same, I use this one. STM32F103RC_btt_USB
Hello, does this board need the DCDC 5V if i want to use filament runout sensor with BL/3D Touch? Or only neopixels?
The seller wrote that voltage parameter for Touch is 5V
You should only need the DCDC for neo pixels.
Great video. But I have an Ender 3 Max. Following the part about compiling the firmware, and using the Ender 3 Max folder in the Examples folder (rather than the Ender 3) I am not seeing a folder for the SKR Mini E2 v2.0. I am just seeing 4 files...2 configs and 2 screen files. How can I create firmware for my Max if the folder isn't there?
Thanks! I would just use the Ender3 and make the quick updates for the max sizes.
OK Chris, fan question, fans are, case fan, hot end fan and part fan- on my OEM Ender 3 board i have stripped wires that go on teh screw terminal beside the main board power and my other 2 clipped on the board. i follower your video to set the fan in the code (FAN1_PIN) with the set value of 50 like you.. but can I still do that with putting my wires back in the screw terminal ( which you didn't ) as you have another setup, or should I splice the board connector to go on the hotend fan and then constant the case fan to the constant power... ugh
So the fans got sorted?
Would it be beneficial to go dual z with this board on an Ender 3? Possibly make a guide on it since it looks like a simple upgrade to do with this board?
There would be some benefit to it, but maybe not worth the money. The X axis is short enough it's not as much of a problem.
I'm not exactly doing a simple swap of the creality control board from the ender 3, I'm planning on using this board to control a 3d printer of my own design. If the board has 2 stepper motor ports for the Z axis connected to only one driver, then would the board still provide enough current for it to drive 2 nema 17 stepper motors for the x or y axis as well, using a parallel duel Z module? And could I edit the firmware to run the machine in accordance with my own machine's dimensions?
Yes it should and yes you can, jut edit the pins file. "pins_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_common.h"
@@ChrisRileyI've also read that the current should be adjusted from the firmware when different motors than the stock motors are used. In that case, should I still increase the current for the y axis if I use 2 motors since the x and y axis typically move a lot more than the a axis?
@@chriscramer3706 Only increase the current if needed. If you start to skip, then increase it.
Hi chris, can I use PC13 (default defined as PS_ON_PIN) for the controller fan? I tried configuring it this way and wired it up with red wire on 24V and black wire on PC13 and it wouldnt work. Is there a restriction on the pins you can use for the controller fan?
PC13 will be a high pin when used and it 5v. You could use it, but you would need a relay or something like that to be able to run a 24v fan. You MIGHT be able to run a 5v fan if it has very low draw.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks! Might give it a try when I get time
I have a problem with the connection of skr E3 mini v2.0 and cura. Connecting to a computer freezes the printer. Only connecting to another program allows you to control the ender as a repiter host.
Interesting, maybe there is a plugin for Cura for a STM serial?
Very interested in this, I have A CR-10S with the stock mainboard. Would this simply screw back in where the original came form? Many thanks
Yes, I am pretty sure the mini boards will replace the stock CR10 boards.
You say Fan0 (PC6) in controlled by default?.... that is where the the original (creality) blue/yellow wires go, correct? I have no control over the part cooling fan when connected there. It stays on permanent and no control from the console either. With the v1.2 board it does control the part cool fan without any issues. It seems like I'm finding a lot out there with the same issue.
Yes, fan 0 should be your controllable part fan, you have it correct. I guess it's a board issue. That is sad to hear.
Hey Chris, What is the solution for Nozzel Heat overshoot.
for example, I set temp to 200 it will go up and pass 230 then start going down again.
I tried to do the PID tuning But failed due to the problem I mentioned above, can you please help with this matter.
using BTT SKR Mini E3 V2.0 I check all the wiring and for sure has nothing to do with that.
totally new to this and thanks to you I'm learning so much. appreciate your help.
So PID is really all you can do here. Silicon socks can help as well. Try to set you PID auto tune to 210 and reset those numbers in eeprom. Preheat to 210 also before you start the autotune. I would check your PSU voltage too, make sure it's not too high.
@@ChrisRiley Thank, I'm going to give it a try, appreciate your help.
Dumb question, isn't the board plug&play? I have a ender 3 pro stock, no bltouch. I don't understand the part with visual studio.
I'm italian, I understand some english but in 20 minutes of video, I probably miss something.
I received the board yesterday and I plan to replace with the stock one this weekend, but I thought it was plug&play.
Is it really necessary all the visual studio part? Can't I just update the firmware, or the board comes "empty" with no firmware in it?
Many thanks in advance!
It is plug N play for your printer, you shouldn't have to alter anything in the firmware to make it work.
@@ChrisRiley Fantastic, thank you!
Would you know if this board will work with the Anycubic Mega Zero 2 ? I also have the TFT35 E3 V3.0 Touch Screen Smart Graphic Display . Will that display work as well? Thank you..
I am not sure on the Mega Zero, don't know that machine, but the TFT should work fine.
@@ChrisRiley As far as I can tell the Mega Zero 2 I'd pretty much the same machine as the Ender 3. They just reversed the location on the Z-Axis drive and power supply. Other than that they are pretty much the same machine. Same screen, same size main board and same print dimensions. I have my Zero 2 which I absolutely love with a passion. It has been such a wonderful printer and the output quality is crazy nice. But the main board is dying on me. I already have the BigTreeTech SKR V1.4 Turbo and the TFT 35 **** LCD and 2209 drivers. I want to use the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my Ender 5+ and continue using the original TFT the 5+ came with. It works great. Then I want to use the new TFT 35*** and the BigTreeTech mini board in my Zero 2. And the really sweet thing is looking at the mini board it appears I won't need to cut on the original Mega Zero 2 housing to make the Micro SD and USB ports to match up with the original boards. "It seems" to be a direct perfect fit from the videos I've watched. But I won't know for sure until I actually buy the board. Well, I guess I'll just go ahead and order it and see what happens. You gotta love Amazon, if it don't fit, it don't cost you a thing to return it and full refund. Great place that Amazon place.
thanks again for a great "how to" video
You are welcome! Thanks for watching
I am working an making an infinity printer with this board. For convince I'm trying to switch the Y-Stepper port with the Z-Stepper ports in the v2 marlin firmware so I can utilize the 2 ports the Z has. I can't find any way to switch them, so I was wondering if you know if this is possible or not? Thanks!
Yes, just switch them in the Pins file. "pins_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3_common.h"
#define Y_ENABLE_PIN PB11
#define Y_STEP_PIN PB10
#define Y_DIR_PIN PB2
#define Z_ENABLE_PIN PB1
#define Z_STEP_PIN PB0
#define Z_DIR_PIN PC5
Hi thx for the great video can you do a neopixel tutorial for this board , I'm struggling for weeks now to get it work.
Sure, that is one I had on the list.
Hi Chris i was just wonder is there any way to link a tablet directly to and skr board and use it to control and upload gcodes direct
Not that I know of, I am not really sure how the serial would work on a tablet.
Chris, I was looking on Amazon US at this board as someone told me it was cheaper to import a board from the US to the UK than it is to buy from the UK and I saw the seller says " 2)Because the fan on the SKR Mini E3 V2.0 control board is a CNC fan, you need to set the wind speed before using it. (Note: V2.0 version of the fan is not ready to use after power on);" I can't find anything about this on the web, what is your take on this?
Not sure what they mean by that. FAN0 is controlled by gcode, so it shouldn't be an issue.
Hi Chris I want to buy the Two trees sp-3 and I want to upgrade the main board to a different one to run marlin do you know one that is compatible with this printer thank you
Just about any board should work, but you will lose your touch screen.
Thank you
Dude , to install wifi module is via tft35 screen interface?
For a mini board, yes.
Hello Chris, i have a question. I've installed this board on a CR10-Mini. It was running an SKR 1.4 Turbo before (temporarily since i didn't want to cut up the control box for SD and USB), and it was fine, nothing weird going on.
However i had a bunch of issues with the Mini E3. The steppers were receiving the wrong commands. For example X was behaving like Z both in terms of Hybrid Threshold and steps/mm, Z was behaving like either X or Y (couldn't quite tell) and Y seemed to behave like the extruder and got hot AF, even though they were all wired correctly. I didn't want to start from the Ender 3 config and change it for my machine, rather i started from the stock Creality config and changed it for this board. After a day of troubleshooting i found some settings in Marlin that would allow me to get them running proprely (X_SLAVE_ADDRESS 0, Y_SLAVE_ADDRESS 2, Z_SLAVE_ADDRESS 1, E0_SLAVE_ADDRESS 3) and the "best part" is i couldn't find anything regarding the issue on the internet.
I still have one nagging issue though. My part cooling fans (i have 2 5015 in parallel and a Noctua 40x20 for the hotend heatsink on a Hero Me Gen5) are buzzing. Sounds like PWM noise, but it's really annoying and loud. Sounds almost like a small speaker. They seem to only buzz below 75%, or maybe it's just the fan noise that masks it at 75% and above, but it didn't seem like it, i tried listening carefully. I don't know about the heatsink fan since i always run that at 100% and it's basically dead silent.
I had tried enabling FAST_PWM_FAN in Marlin (Configuration.h) since the description seemed to suggest i might fix my issue, however it doesn't seem to be supported for that chip yet.
My question is, do you think this is a "bug" with the board, maybe related to the fact it's running 12v and not 24v (even though it can run in both and they also state it supports the CR10 Mini and original CR10 which are both 12v) or a config issue or a hardware issue on my side (fans or wiring) ? Have you installed it alongside a 12v PSU or encountered this issue with any of your machines ? Curious if maybe you know of a solution for this. Needless to say, neither of these issues presented themselves on the SKR 1.4 Turbo...
I think it might be a bug on the board, I haven't tried these on 12v yet, but I can almost guess that it has something to do with the new regulator on the board they are using. Not sure what the fix would be.
I've had the exact same issues... I just fixed the steppers by comparing the configuration_adv.h with the official marlin branch with the broken one from BTT (the current BTT branch doesn't compile) and from there change stuff to copy the BTT branch.
As for the PWM noise. I feel like it's hardware related and seeing that the only major change from V1.2 is the 5V regulator it would seem like a logical source... I run on 12V but it really shouldn't make a difference from running on 24V, if anything the datasheet says the regulator is more efficient at 12V.
I think i'll check it out with an oscilloscope next friday and try to figure out were the noise is coming from.
@@crookedtooth6445 Thanks for the the update, I would be interested to see what you find.
@@crookedtooth6445 I'd also be very interested in your findings. I have long since fixed my steppers, infact they were already fixed when i had posted this. As for the fans, i used SOFT_PWM in Marlin and they're definetly quieter. No longer do i have the annoying electrical whining, however now i've got clicking noise when it pulses at low frequencies (i.e. when you're running the fan slowly)... Could probably tune it by messing with the scale, but it eats into the range of PWM that you can use from what i understood. Anyway, haven't touched the printer in a week or so since i've been very busy with work and other things as of late.
so this has 2 z plugs, but only one tmc chip between them? so not a great upgrade from a 1.2, but with a splitter cable - i'm assuming you cant control them independantly?
The are connected in parallel on this board. You cannot control them separately.
@@ChrisRiley cheers Chris.
What is the difference with the re/rc and USB board definitions? Also does anyone know how you can flash this over usb with stm32flash ?
Rc states is have 256 memory, re says 512, although it seems you can use 512 on the RC. I am not sure how to do a flash via serial on a STM32 chip, I think you need a writer of some kind.
i have CR-10 mini, can i use this board? CR-10 mini is same as CR-10 with smaller Y and Z axis. What firmware settings do i need for CR-10 mini (it is 12 v instead of 24 v)
Yes, you can use this board. There is an example config for the mini on the Marlin site.
Any head way on the NeoPixels? Im finding it very hard to find any information about setting them up. Any help would be appreciated!
Actually figured it out last night!
Alright!
will the firmware for the ender 5 work for the cr-10 ir is there a specific firmware for the cr-10 skr mini combo
THese firmwares are very close. I would start with the Ender 3 config and just change the size.
@@ChrisRiley ok thank you very much
Hi!
I need help installing this board on Anet A8 Plus, I do not know what to do, I can't find anything for this printer with this board. Can anyone help?
I don't know much about the plus, but I would just start with the ender 3 config and tweak it as needed.
I have all my settings set how I’d like in my firmware for the V1.2 board. However I decided to buy the V2.0. Can I just throw my old firmware for the V1.2? or do I need to do it all over again with the version of marlin that preconfigured for the skr mini e3 v2.0?
Also I don’t want to use my z stop. I took it off and i don’t know where it went. I want to use my bl touch as z min end stop. How would I hook up the bl Touch on the board?
So just use the same firmware but update the board name to 2_0. Bltouch, just leave the red,orange,brown wires on the probe pins and move the black and white wire to the Z min endstop. Make sure white is on S and black is on G.
Is there any cons to putting this board into a CR-10S. I don't hear many people talking about replacing the CR-10 with it...
I don't think so, you would have to look on the BTT github, but I think they will fit that case.
so what do you do if your printer isnt in the list or its a custom printer do you choose the nearet build type ..then change each item ..
Yes, I just start with one that is close and go from there.
@@ChrisRiley cheers mate so i can swop out the crummy Anet a3 board and put in a skr mini e3 and follow your videos
compile marlin for your printer
i dont know if anyone mentioned but check the polarity when instaling and before powering on because they did change the polarity in 2 places right after the fan and two yellow wires on the CR10 . it use to be negative positive and now its backwards i ran my printer for 12 hours like that before i saw it. Lucky it didnt do any damage but im sure it isnt good for it
Good looking out, thank you.
Newbie here I have a Ender3 V2 and tried to do a firmware update but my screen stays orange and after rebooting it still has the same version and I'm trying to upgrade with the TH3d unified firmware and everyone is saying that the screens SD slot is bad so why not just get a touch screen I'm thing but don't know where to start, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Honestly I can't speck to TH3D firmware and how they handle this. I don't know much about this board so I can't really say what screens might work with it.
can i ask - why you choose to build for STM32F103RE_btt not STM32F103RC_btt? v2 got STM32F103RCT6 - STM32F103RC family controller
The RC only has a 256 memory limit, the RE has 512. You can force and RC chip to 512 with RE. They both seem to work fine.
4:58 At first I laughed about sensorless homing on E, but then I started to wonder if it would be possible to go full mad scientist in Marlin and use it as a stop for automatic filament loading. Unfortunately I suspect the sensitivity tuning might kill the (stupid) idea.
It's a great idea, not sure how well it will detect with that gear, but it could be fun to try.
i got my board and the lcd output is keyed torwards the outside instead of the inside like in the video. the lcd wont turn on either. im so new to switching parts that i cant tell if i did something wrong or if my board is bad
It's very common to have to flip that plug over to get it to work. You can probably just slide the LCD plastic shroud off and turn it 180.
I tried that and the screen works like its supposed to now. Thanks for the help!
Hi I am now in building a printer looks like Anycubic how do i put Endstops on it the most of the Endstopswitches have 3 Cable so it is not possible to stick it in the Mini E3 2.0 because there are just two connect pins please explain how its done keep your good work in futere
You could swap them with the regular microswitches, or you use another 5v source to power them. I am not sure if they will work without power.
Chris, would this board mount well in the Ender 5, would sd cards line up with the case. I currently have the V1.1.4 board in it?
It's designed to line up with the ender 3 case, but I am guessing the ender 5 is the same. Check the github drawing. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0.1/Hardware
@@ChrisRiley Thanks, for your answer and the link. Good video.
I’ve installed two of these on my Creality Ender 3 V2... the first one I thought was a dud so I returned it and they sent me a new one, but even after installing this one, I still have the same black screen and long constant beeping. I’ve followed your steps and I’ve even gone ahead and unplugged everything and replugged it all back in just in case I missed something. Any advice?
That screen isn't directly compatible. I don't know a lot about that screen and how it is pined out. Marlin supports it, but not sure the board will.
I figured it out thankfully... with a little help from another source of course. Yea it’s weird how this isn’t mentioned when searching for this over google or TH-cam directly. But the whole reason for the BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 was to run the BTT TFT70... so I needed to use the TFT70 and loose the stock Ender 3 V2 screen. Thanks for the reply!
Hi Chris, which board do you prefer between the SKR Mini and the Panucatt kinetica G2C?
The G2C is a nicer board, but takes some getting used to, RRF and all. Not as easy of an install.
Thank you for the reply. I didn't see, but were you able to get the motors to run quieter with the G2C?
@@AnthonyWilliams-mq8gj Yes, I had to turn off hybrid mode. It's in the G2C video.
Chris Riley thank you..
I'm having trouble with the Extruder fan turning on at 50degrees, Extruder fan plugged into FAN1 and part fan into FAN0.
I tried writing the code like the video to #define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN FAN1_PIN, I also tried #define E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN PC7 and can't get it to turn on.
I made sure to disable //#define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN
when I go to heat PLA, the board says fan @100% but its not turning on either? I know the fans work but am having a hell of a time figuring this out.
if i turn the part fan on manually through the temp settings it turns on and runs.
I believe i figured it out. i am running marlin 2.0.7.2.. I had issues with this before where i would add .bin after the firmware name (firmware.bin)
I removed the .bin and then installed it into the printer and it worked right away. not sure if they have changed it so you don't need the .bin.. it actually doesn't save as a firmware.bin file, at least for me. so adding .bin made it unreadable.
Glad you found it, sometimes Windows will put and extra .bin on it for you, pretty annoying.
Getting pretty frustrated trying to build my bin file as each time I try I just get FileNotFoundError: [WinError 3] The system cannot find the path specified - Any tips on getting past this?
Make sure you have the folder that contains the Marlin folder added to your project. You should be able to see the .pio folder.
wont the new board having the drivers already installed? or do i have to install the new drivers after i finish installing it?
The mini boards come with the drivers, so nothing to do after install.
@@ChrisRiley good to know! ty for responding :D so don't have to do any software related stuff then just simply swap out the physical part?
No minsize/maxsize from bed are needed?
That is all set but the min max bed size settings.
I’m stuck on 1.2 board can get to build so I can get my bondtech extruder run right way
Let me know what errors you have, I can help.
what are those crimps used on the end of your power cables?
Those are ferrules you use them under terminals. www.amazon.com/Ferrule-Crimping-Tool-Kit-0-08-10mm%C2%B2/dp/B07K17VDF2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=ferrules&qid=1600891909&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFROExSNzNLWVpGRTgmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAyMDk0NTkyWllPQjROWklLME5RJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5MDcxMDAxMUE3SVNQS05UMVNQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
@@ChrisRiley Thank you.
Hi Chris, which board would you prefer? The SKR Mini 2.0 or the Creality V4.2.7
I like the SKR boards a little better.
@@ChrisRiley Ordered, Thanks Chris.
Does the board have more than 256K?
When I compile in Platformio with STM32F103RC_btt I get the error message "not enough memory".
Does it work with version STM32F103RC_btt_512k
According to the data sheet, the RC only has 256K
I like your tutorials very much. Keep it up.
@@herr_rossi69 I am not sure what''s up with that. I think it's the chip maker safe guarding themselves with that memory limit. It will in fact let you use 512, I have had not problems with it.
@@ChrisRiley You get more than you pay for, even rarely
If the board works well I'll buy the 35 touch display.
Do I have to change anything in the firmware?
I cannot use the BTT firmware because I have a Titan extruder and have to change the direction of rotation.
@@herr_rossi69 All you have to do is update the serials make the first one 2 and the second one -1.
Chris, this works great for me, but how can I export the firmware file to the server card, tried a direct connection but VNC studio rejects it, how do I export the firmware file so I can upload it via sd card?
On the STM32 there is no way to do it from the serial I am afraid, you have to hand truck it with the SD card. The STM chip takes some sort of interpetur to flash it.
My board has a fried chip, I don’t suppose you’d know how to reflash a new chip for soldering?
I don't, that's above my skill level I am afraid.
Can I use Bigtreetech skr mini E3 V2 in the 3D printer I made myself?
Sure you can, there are lots of firmware example out there to help you configure it.
do yo happen to know how you can connect a TFT 35 V3.0 (NOT THE E3! ) to it? marlin says " CR10_STOCKDISPLAY, ZONESTAR_LCD, ENDER2_STOCKDISPLAY, MKS_MINI_12864, and TFTGLCD_PANEL_(SPI|I2C) are currently supported on the BIGTREE_SKR_MINI_E3, but if i try a firmware that came with the card, the display works, but if i CR10 ,stock display or mini, it won't work.
i've tried using the baud rate, (115200) but it still didn't do much
I think it should work. I have always used the CR10_Stockdisplay option and mine work. Not sure what the difference is with there firmware.
@@ChrisRiley thanks, managed to get mine working, shame they still don't have the sd card running from usb.
btw i've noticed marlin has a new feature ...tramming assistance
@@emaayan Interesting, I haven't seen that one yet.
love watching your videos, you talk so I can understand... wish you did the ender 3 pro with SKR-mini V2 and a BLTouch.. i get scared when I have to jump videos to get things installed lol WELL I take that back, you did one ! lol thanks Chris! well printer teardown starts after a coffee.. hope this time I don't fry my stepper motors like last time :-(
Coffee first, then printers! Thanks for watching
@@ChrisRiley watching your BLTouvh video now.. setting things up.. so far good..
@@ChrisRiley well test compile and was all good, makes changes complied good, do the bltouch part and fails
question, i did the fan conversation and perfect, now the bltouch, the connectors that they send I had to switch 2 wires, but the white and black, humm where the crap do they go? if keeping the z stop.. or do we remove the z stop ?
@@WayneRigley So if you want to keep the Z switch use the probe pins. Starting from the pin closes to the edge of the board. It goes Brown, Red, Orange, Black, White.