I built a smaller version of this for my contractor sized table saw DWE7485 and added some blade protection at the back. Only about 21.5 inches between the fences. I didn't have the large cauls so I had to use my kitchen counter top and lot's of weight on top. That actually worked pretty good. I also don't have a plane so mine might not turn out as straight, but it's just going to have to do. Turns out my piece of plywood was not really flat either, it wasn't twisted, just a little bit of a bow in it. I couldn't tell by looking at it that it wasn't already flat until I put a level on it. The only reason I didn't use MDF for the base was because this was going to be used outside in the elements. I skipped the tacking part of gluing the fence together (don't have a nail gun) and ended up with a crooked edge due to misaligned pieces. No idea how that happened as I thought I checked it real good before leaving alone during drying. Then it had to be cut down a little on the table saw to correct the crooked edge and it came out pretty square. Now here's the weird part. I got to the part where the initial adjustment is made using the square (I used two squares simultaneously) and instead of trying to counter sink from under the board, I just clamped the fence into position and re-check for squareness and flipped it all over and then put the counter sink and pivot screw in. Then flipped it over to re-check everything. It was still perfect, so I put the second screw in using the same method and when I did the test cuts, it came out to .068 which was lager than I expected considering how square it looked. I ended up over correcting on my first attempt to correct it and got it down to .036 in the opposite direction. I believe not having the nail gun or a harder piece of wood to do the registering caused the issue. I switched to screwing a piece of metal to the top of the base as a way to accurately register the position of the fence and got it real close (not dead on). All I can tell you is this is not as easy as it looks when you have limited tools and are just starting out. I'm happy that I have a sled that's cutting way better than anything I was able to achieve before, even on my miter saw. I'll have to make a base and fence for that as well as the stock two piece fence could never be adjusted to work right.
Thank you, probably one of the more through expiations on sled building, and simple is always the best way to my way of thinking, you can build any thing onto or into the sled from that point, well done sir, enjoyed the video.
Always love watching and BOY would I love an American Table Saw with "da slats;" I have two but no slats(but the cheese and wine here is great.)...rr Normandy, France
Tom, I really enjoy your videos and I especially appreciated this one along with the companion 3 cut fine tuning. I made a new sled to replace the old one I cobbled together a couple years ago. Did the 3-cut procedure and my sled is "dead nuts" as you say. I made one important addition -- a "thumb guard" on the back fence. I even painted that piece red! Why? Because I cut off half my thumb using my old one, on which I neglected to put a guard! (Back on after some nifty surgery and I'm beginning to use it.) Thanks for the great work!
You certainly can glue it down, but I have had times in the past when a sled fence that was glued down needed adjustment. I have found that the fence stays in place quite well with just the screws, and it is still easily adjustable if for whatever reason the fence gets out of square or needs replacing. Hope that makes sense, thanks for watching! 👍😎
With your new table saw, I am presuming you had to make a new sled. I am in the same boat. Did you still use MDF? I have heard conflicting info regarding MDF causing SS brake activations.
Thanks Tom! This was new to me, I did not know MDF was a potential problem with false triggering of the Sawstop. (If you happen to be in the Neighborwood, you may have seen me talk about you telling me this discussing it with the viewers on our little livestream “Coffee with Tom” episode this past Friday morning. I did some research and found comments about it in various forums, perhaps some of the same you saw. They said it seemed to be isolated to cheaper grades including 1/2” MDF supplied by the big box stores. I just happened to have picked up a small piece from Home Depot, so now I don’t want to use it on my saw due to the risk of it false firing and ruining a blade and cartridge. But quite a few on the livestream said they have never had a problem with any MDF cutting on the Sawstop. I have found 1/2” MDF to be the best material for the base of a sled so I may just take a chance with this and hopefully it’s not an issue. I can make the sled and the initial cuts in “bypass mode” but I hope it regular use after that it doesn’t trigger the saw. I will try to find out more from my regular plywood supplier. Thanks for letting me know! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking I do want to get over to the Neighborwood at some point. I will have to read up more on "bypass mode". I have cut pressed particle board with no issues with the saw, and am considering that for the sled. I know not as strong as MDF, but is just as flat.
A PARF table is cheaper - 3/4 MDF, safer, more accurate, the track saw has better dust collection than a table saw and when your done you can hang the MDF on the wall.
Don’t wanna criticize.. you know what you’re doing but why didn’t you just use your table saw fence to square up and glue your runners? Just put the fence where you need it add glue and drop in place using the fence to flush it the add weight until dry
You are right in thinking of other ways because there sure are many options. I choose to “establish square” with the first runner using a square and referencing from the back edge where I will be placing my fence…that way I know I will be close. Referencing from the fence can certainly work but it assumes the fence is set accurately parallel to the slot, which is no guarantee as the fence is adjustable. But if you know yours is parallel, by all means that method should work well. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
Tom is such a nice dude. Could watch his videos all day
Thanks Tim, I appreciate that and could listen to comments like that all day! 👍😎
Underrated Woodworker master.
Thank you 👍🙏
I built a smaller version of this for my contractor sized table saw DWE7485 and added some blade protection at the back. Only about 21.5 inches between the fences. I didn't have the large cauls so I had to use my kitchen counter top and lot's of weight on top. That actually worked pretty good. I also don't have a plane so mine might not turn out as straight, but it's just going to have to do. Turns out my piece of plywood was not really flat either, it wasn't twisted, just a little bit of a bow in it. I couldn't tell by looking at it that it wasn't already flat until I put a level on it. The only reason I didn't use MDF for the base was because this was going to be used outside in the elements.
I skipped the tacking part of gluing the fence together (don't have a nail gun) and ended up with a crooked edge due to misaligned pieces. No idea how that happened as I thought I checked it real good before leaving alone during drying. Then it had to be cut down a little on the table saw to correct the crooked edge and it came out pretty square. Now here's the weird part. I got to the part where the initial adjustment is made using the square (I used two squares simultaneously) and instead of trying to counter sink from under the board, I just clamped the fence into position and re-check for squareness and flipped it all over and then put the counter sink and pivot screw in. Then flipped it over to re-check everything. It was still perfect, so I put the second screw in using the same method and when I did the test cuts, it came out to .068 which was lager than I expected considering how square it looked. I ended up over correcting on my first attempt to correct it and got it down to .036 in the opposite direction. I believe not having the nail gun or a harder piece of wood to do the registering caused the issue. I switched to screwing a piece of metal to the top of the base as a way to accurately register the position of the fence and got it real close (not dead on). All I can tell you is this is not as easy as it looks when you have limited tools and are just starting out. I'm happy that I have a sled that's cutting way better than anything I was able to achieve before, even on my miter saw. I'll have to make a base and fence for that as well as the stock two piece fence could never be adjusted to work right.
That bandsaw cut belongs in a museum. I hope one day I can follow a line that well!
😂 Wow, I didn’t even think of that, nice of you to say, thanks! 👍😎
Thank you, probably one of the more through expiations on sled building, and simple is always the best way to my way of thinking, you can build any thing onto or into the sled from that point, well done sir, enjoyed the video.
Thanks Terry, glad you enjoyed it and found it was helpful! 👍
Great presentation from someone who clearly knows his subect !
Always love watching and BOY would I love an American Table Saw with "da slats;" I have two but no slats(but the cheese and wine here is great.)...rr Normandy, France
Haha, thanks Richard…the wine and cheese sounds delicious! 😎👍
Tom, I really enjoy your videos and I especially appreciated this one along with the companion 3 cut fine tuning. I made a new sled to replace the old one I cobbled together a couple years ago. Did the 3-cut procedure and my sled is "dead nuts" as you say. I made one important addition -- a "thumb guard" on the back fence. I even painted that piece red! Why? Because I cut off half my thumb using my old one, on which I neglected to put a guard! (Back on after some nifty surgery and I'm beginning to use it.) Thanks for the great work!
A master at work, thanks for the entertainment!
An excellent design and method for building for a cross-cut sled. It will last, and work accurately, for years.
Thanks for the video! 👍👍
Thanks Jerry! 👍
Thank you Tom
My pleasure Carl! 👍
I have to remake my crosscut sled. My new saw has different, smaller slots. Thanks for this.
youre a good teacher even i could understand thanx
Great video. well paced. very precise. Although I do now have workshop envy...
Great job, you make it so easy
Thanks Vern, glad you enjoyed it! 👍
nice video
Thank you 👍
Can you explain why you don’t glue the fence down? Thank you
You certainly can glue it down, but I have had times in the past when a sled fence that was glued down needed adjustment. I have found that the fence stays in place quite well with just the screws, and it is still easily adjustable if for whatever reason the fence gets out of square or needs replacing. Hope that makes sense, thanks for watching! 👍😎
With your new table saw, I am presuming you had to make a new sled. I am in the same boat. Did you still use MDF? I have heard conflicting info regarding MDF causing SS brake activations.
Thanks Tom! This was new to me, I did not know MDF was a potential problem with false triggering of the Sawstop. (If you happen to be in the Neighborwood, you may have seen me talk about you telling me this discussing it with the viewers on our little livestream “Coffee with Tom” episode this past Friday morning.
I did some research and found comments about it in various forums, perhaps some of the same you saw. They said it seemed to be isolated to cheaper grades including 1/2” MDF supplied by the big box stores. I just happened to have picked up a small piece from Home Depot, so now I don’t want to use it on my saw due to the risk of it false firing and ruining a blade and cartridge. But quite a few on the livestream said they have never had a problem with any MDF cutting on the Sawstop.
I have found 1/2” MDF to be the best material for the base of a sled so I may just take a chance with this and hopefully it’s not an issue. I can make the sled and the initial cuts in “bypass mode” but I hope it regular use after that it doesn’t trigger the saw.
I will try to find out more from my regular plywood supplier.
Thanks for letting me know! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking I do want to get over to the Neighborwood at some point. I will have to read up more on "bypass mode". I have cut pressed particle board with no issues with the saw, and am considering that for the sled. I know not as strong as MDF, but is just as flat.
please keep using the standard system :). We are still Americans
Haha, I didn’t realize I went into metric during this video. No worries there, I’m American too, and old habits aren’t going to be broken now! 😎
What's with the camera man. I'm getting motion sickness.
Most times it’s not an issue, but sorry about that 👀
A PARF table is cheaper - 3/4 MDF, safer, more accurate, the track saw has better dust collection than a table saw and when your done you can hang the MDF on the wall.
And works really well for finger jointing & dadoing LOL.
Sounds like you have something that works great for you! I’ll grant you it’s cheaper, but more accurate?…to each his own guess 😎
@@EpicWoodworking This my answer your accuracy question. 4 cut test. th-cam.com/video/2i8-CJO9EsE/w-d-xo.html
Don’t wanna criticize.. you know what you’re doing but why didn’t you just use your table saw fence to square up and glue your runners? Just put the fence where you need it add glue and drop in place using the fence to flush it the add weight until dry
You are right in thinking of other ways because there sure are many options. I choose to “establish square” with the first runner using a square and referencing from the back edge where I will be placing my fence…that way I know I will be close. Referencing from the fence can certainly work but it assumes the fence is set accurately parallel to the slot, which is no guarantee as the fence is adjustable. But if you know yours is parallel, by all means that method should work well. Thanks for watching! 👍😎