At this point in my life, I now know it's the attention to the smallest details that define success. With respect to that, you, sir are a complete success. I wish I could be more like you.
Hey Rob, just wanted to tell you, I watch a ton of videos on woodworking online and yours are by far my favorite. Good tips and tricks and I always learn something. I think the biggest thing for me personally is that it feels very authentic. I never feel like you're trying to sell me something like so many other channels. I know you do sell items and I plan on buying some, but its not at all the primary focus of your videos and that is refreshing. I also appreciate what you do for charity work. This channel is probably the most genuine in terms of passion and love for the craft and helping others as craftsmen and as fellow humans and I think thats what I appreciate most about it. Working with wood improves me more than I do the rough stock and I think you understand that. I appreciate what you do, I know it can probably be easy to get wrapped up in stresses of a business, pushing out videos, juggling everything, but just know that the fact that you've stuck with the teaching strategy and remaining genuine and it doesnt go unnoticed. Also when you arent trying to sell steak knives on a woodworking channel etc, when/if you DO recommend something, I as a consumer take a closer look, other channels push so much garbage its like you get fatigued or desensitized to it and I click through. I know that there are several revenue stream options, but when I need/want something I'm checking your store not only because I like the products, I want to support what you are doing in the little way Im able. Wishing you and the rest of our northern neighbors all the best.
Wow. Thank you so much. It's so nice that folks appreciate our strategy of customer service. Just the other day I had a customer write us with several woodworking questions which I answered and then hi last question was that he could buy a Shapton sharpening Stone on Amazon for $15 cheaper than on our site. My answer was go ask Amazon for answers to your woodworking questions! Thank you for your support.
Wonderful small TS Crosscut sled. Smple and works well. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Interesting that you made your runners slightly proud of the table, everyone else makes them a tad shallower. I like this method as only the runners contact the table which means less friction.
Thanks Rob I’m only New woodworking I like that you still use planers I have one I think it’s a Jointer planer I’m still learning how to use it properly ❤😊
I definitely need to make two of these. A 90 degree and a 45 degree. I have a large sled, but it would be really nice to have small ones for doing little parts and frames.
Look at that hair! Great video on a simple yet effective (and indispensable) jig that should accompany any table saw. I bought myself a Bosch jobsite saw last year and built a sled for it in much the same way. I use it all the time.
Love the size of this crosscut sled! I work out of a micro-sized shop (San Francisco sized 1-car garage) and have the new Sawstop CTS which I can carry out to the driveway to use it. Every sq inch of my shop gets scrutinized for how much & often the Thing that Fills It will add value to a woodworking project. This smaller sled will be perfect to use with the compact saw. Thanks!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking For what it is (very small TS) I like the CTS a lot. It is light, and makes very clean and accurate cuts. Blade alignment & adjustments are easy, the miter slots are surprisingly straight and true for an aluminum top. The fence is extremely accurate on cuts from 0 to 16" or so, as the fence is moved to its extreme limit of 26" from there it progressively gets less stable and reliable. That and not being able to use dado blades on it are its only real limitation, but for me its an easy thing to make up those shortcomings to gain the safety the saw offers. I use the Incra miter fence and with that can cut perfect 45s for miter joints...although all my cuts end up on your awesome shooting board for a final clean-up anyway.
Hi Rob the way you ensured the fence is square with the base is genius. Cutting that rabbit like you said guarantees that it will be square. Easiest way I have seen to square it up. Best video on TH-cam on how to make a crosscut sled for a table saw. Thank you for sharing you excellent ideas with all of us. Take care. 👍🏻👊👍🏻
Building a cross-cut sled is my current project yet to be started. I was going to build the big one, but now I'm going to do the little one first. Usually I modify instructions, but I think I'll build mine just like this. Thanks Rob & team for the instruction.
Rob. This build looks straight forward. It makes sense. You’re th only one I’ve seen attach the rear guide that way. In theory it should work. Problem is that I can’t mine to end up at 90 degrees to the blade. I just don’t get it. Many years ago. I made a sled in the same manner at a local community college and it was perfect.
Chances are, Rob's sled is not as accurate as you would like, nor as he would like. He only checked it with a 2" square and said "perfect". Possible, but not likely. Watch "5 cuts to a perfect cross-cut sled" -William Ng. At least you will have an option.
If you check out “Making a Crosscut Sled” by Epic Woodworking, Tom Mcloughlan gets a bit more into making everything perfectly square. He uses the three cut method which is actually simpler and equally accurate to the five cut method. It’s the best video I’ve seen on crosscut sleds. th-cam.com/video/uccUgHAQB28/w-d-xo.html
5-cuts is the only ‘feasible’ way to get ‘near’ perfect accuracy. However, an adjustable ‘main’ (back) fence is a must, to ensure one can make micro adjustments after the ‘five-cut’ exercise!! Rob may argue that this level of accuracy is not necessary, but knowing Rob, he would only be satisfied at optimum perfection!! Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
Nicely done! I’ve always thought the 5-cut method for squaring your fence is a lot of trouble for the benefit. Cutting the rabbet for the fence on the table saw is a genius-level WSNH move! (Work Smarter Not Harder 👍)
I could not agree more on the robertson (square) head screws. They never cam out. I only buy the combo head ones... in a pinch they can take a phillips driver as well.
My small sled is about the same size and design. Probably the most useful table saw accessory that I own, after push blocks. I estimate I use it 20X more than my large sled.
Hey Rob, It was good to watch this video, and very nice to see you reach for the hand plane so often to make a board true. The problem here is that you did not take time to orient the grain on your bubinga mitre slot guides. This can cause binding later on. If you oriented the guide such that the annual rings are left to right, the runner will expand (ever so slightly) vertically, which will never be a problem. It would only raise the sled perhaps 2 thou. If on the other hand, you "stack" the rings vertically, seasonally these will expand across the grain and your sled will bind in the mitre slot. So you did that wrong. It's okay though, you can cut dovetails very well ! My concern is for your students. "5 cuts to a perfect cross-cut sled" by William Ng is the one to watch. I know you and your students will have problems with this jig if they follow your instructions. Just sayin'
THANK YOU so much for this video. I am working with a jobsite saw and all the crosscut sleds are for larger table saws. I have been wondering if a sled with a 1/2" base would be sturdy enough for regular use.
Definitely is sufficient. Especially if you're running a less than 10inch blade, you'll appreciate the extra cutting height. Just choose your 1/2 inch material appropriately
I have a Delta table saw job saw and and I Built-in sledge for a lot and I use it quite often just make sure the back piece or you're gonna stick the wood Just make sure that it is square and put a little block behind it cause there's a couple times where I was in a hurry and I've caught the tip of my finger
I've been making crosscut sleds by rebating the fence for YEARS and this is the first time I've seen anyone else do it this way to get perfect 90 degrees. I usually use the "known good" factory corners as well. This way, you can avoid adjusting the fence and needing to use the "five cut" method to tune the thing and it stays truer longer.
Just that I have never found it necessary but I do have to check it before use and make sure there is no sawdust in there. Absolutely you could add a little chamfer for a dust groove if you wanted
So just a little recap for anyone wanting to buid this and remembering things like "five cut method" and so on: The way you made sure that the back is square to the blade was in the very beginning, when you cut that rabet on the table saw, correct? That was before you set your fence to "absolutely parallel", so the slight angle you had before would transfer to the sled. I'm not saying that angle is going to matter, it's just something to keep in mind for people who may not have such a reliable tablesaw (like myself, for example), or plan to cut that rabet with a router.
The rabbet on the wood is to ensure the fence is parallel with the long edge of the board. Because I cut the base perfectly square, then ensured my fence was perfectly parallel to the miter slot, when I attached the base to the miter tracks and held it against the saw fence it ensured the long edge of my base was perpendicular to my saw blade. The one thing I failed to show is that I set up my table saw blade so it is also parallel to the miter slot. But you are correct, if you table saw is not set up well or you do not know ho set up and align your table saw then this build method wont work
At about 11 minutes he marks the back fence at 3 inches since his blade cuts that high and made the fence well above that mark. He didn’t like how tall it was and so took off about 3/8ths. I hope this helps.
perfect... but I don't trust myself at keeping my hands clear if the blade comes through at the end of the cut....I'll add an extra blade guard/coverup on the closer side...
Rob, I noticed you using the zero-clearance PVC tape on the top of your table insert. When applying it, do you lower the insert to make the tape flush with the top? I've found that I can't lower my insert quite enough, so I still have a small lip on the leading edge that boards catch on. I've tried sanding the front edge of the PVC down a bit, and that works for a little while then eventually a small sliver of wood gets under it and starts peeling it up. Advice?
Hi Rob , Jim at Stumpy Nubs pointed me to your site. Can I use ply wood for the base rather than MDF. Not a huge fan of the stuff as we have a damp climate and unless sealed it has a tendency to absorb moisture in a similar fashion to C Y glue. Its expensive enough here in Ireland for what it is,relative to ply. But it is strong enough to use as a jig on my small table saw. I'd never use it for furniture .
By veering the end of the fence away ever so slightly, I do about 1/32, this releives a bit of pressure from between the blade/riving knife and the fence in the event there is any wood bowing or flexing during the cut do to release of pressure in the wood. It helps to reduce the chance of kick back but doesn't affect the squareness of the cut.
Wish I'd known that method of squaring the fence when I built my sleds. As an aside, I add a "block" of wood behind the fence where the blade goes through it so the blade is buried in it and can't reach my fingers.
I like your work and your presentation. Very nice. However I doubt the 90 deg. accuracy of this sled. More care is need to get it accurate, and the Internet is loaded with ways to do that. Ned
If the saw is set up correctly then it will be accurate. If your saw is NOT set up correctly then you need to fix that first. And squaring a fence to a blade is not rocket science, no matter what you hear on “the internet.” Do you really think Rob Cosman needs Google to tell him how to make a crosscut sled or “more care” to find a 90 degree angle? 🙄
With this build there was no "5 cut method" or square against the blade or anything. What part in the video set your back fence square to the blade? Please don't think I am trying to be confrontational. I just don't understand. Thanks. Some of the comments below regarding buying stuff from you, I would really like a Wood River plane but you can't sell to the U.S. I know I can get them here in the U.S. but I wanted to get it from you.
My fence is parallel to the miter slots, my blade is parallel to the miter slots. I cut the MDF base and checked the diagonals to verify square. Follow the video and nothing else needs to be done.
You are correct about the fence not squared to the blade. He squared it to the tablesaw fence, and his diagonals measurement of the MDF was his check. It's not reliable though. It's "okay" though, I guess. At the end, crosscutting a 5" board and checking it with a 2" square is misleading.
Ok, I must have missed a crucial part of this build. Everyone, and I mean everyone, else, seems to have to move the front support rail of the sled at least once to achieve the near perfect square cut. But you cut the base,the miter rails, and then attached the back support rail with glue and screws. No checking for square or 5 cut method or anything ... how? Is it the rabbit that insures the squareness?
He made sure the fence was a square reference then he made sure the sled was square. Then he used the fence to square the sled to the blade. The support rail he made sure was flat and did a rabbit on to ensure it followed the back of the sled and was 90 degrees up. Most 5 cut sleds don't calibrate the fence to the mitre slot before (and he's got a good fence), and I assume he had his blade calibrated to the mitre slot. Finally, at this size a few thou over such a short cross cut capacity is going to be irrelevant. If you have a larger sled that's where the accuracy is more important because it will compound.
You mean a block on the side of the fence toward the user where the blade comes through? I think those are anti-safety blocks because they wouldn't stop the blade from cutting through it and provide a false sense of security. Or did you mean something else?
who the heck normally has such a place to build something like that? Can someone not show how to make one for if i am a normal person with no extra money and no big carpentry skills?
Amy….I assume you have a table saw otherwise there is no need to build this jig. This build requires a table saw and a hand plane. I used a band saw to cut the angles on the fences but any saw will do, and you don’t have to cut the angles. For this build to work you need a flat fence. I choose to use sold wood and to plane it flat, however if you do not have a hand plane or do not know how to plane just use a piece of quality flat plywood instead, and you can eliminate the planing. As for the Shoulder plane you can do the same job with a chisel although it will take longer and require lots of test fits. Good luck
You can build that mate! You can build a simple one, in a simple work room. Don't use bubinga, use that white plastic mitre slot material. It comes pre sized to fit. (if you need to tighten up some slop, "pucker" the edge of the plastic by tapping it with a nail set and hammer. This will tighten it up. Also, use a square to align your fence to the blade. Make that fence adjustable until your test cuts make it PERFECT. Once it is perfect clamp it, and add more screws (and maybe glue). Remember, you can't turn back from glue. Chose the straightest wood available. You can do it mate. Your shop will get better without all that fancy stuff. 🌅😀
Check out Rob's Table Saw Jigs playlist here: th-cam.com/play/PLqUOljnY0d9c2GJwX8O7rvJXC4PpdgVqw.html
At this point in my life, I now know it's the attention to the smallest details that define success. With respect to that, you, sir are a complete success. I wish I could be more like you.
Hey Rob, just wanted to tell you, I watch a ton of videos on woodworking online and yours are by far my favorite. Good tips and tricks and I always learn something. I think the biggest thing for me personally is that it feels very authentic. I never feel like you're trying to sell me something like so many other channels. I know you do sell items and I plan on buying some, but its not at all the primary focus of your videos and that is refreshing. I also appreciate what you do for charity work. This channel is probably the most genuine in terms of passion and love for the craft and helping others as craftsmen and as fellow humans and I think thats what I appreciate most about it. Working with wood improves me more than I do the rough stock and I think you understand that. I appreciate what you do, I know it can probably be easy to get wrapped up in stresses of a business, pushing out videos, juggling everything, but just know that the fact that you've stuck with the teaching strategy and remaining genuine and it doesnt go unnoticed. Also when you arent trying to sell steak knives on a woodworking channel etc, when/if you DO recommend something, I as a consumer take a closer look, other channels push so much garbage its like you get fatigued or desensitized to it and I click through. I know that there are several revenue stream options, but when I need/want something I'm checking your store not only because I like the products, I want to support what you are doing in the little way Im able. Wishing you and the rest of our northern neighbors all the best.
Wow. Thank you so much. It's so nice that folks appreciate our strategy of customer service. Just the other day I had a customer write us with several woodworking questions which I answered and then hi last question was that he could buy a Shapton sharpening Stone on Amazon for $15 cheaper than on our site. My answer was go ask Amazon for answers to your woodworking questions! Thank you for your support.
You couldn't have said it better!
I would have to wonder about anyone that did not agree with you!
well done..thanks for the lesson!
Awesome, makes it look easier than any others
Wonderful small TS Crosscut sled. Smple and works well. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
I had been thinking about a design for a small Crosscut sled and yours is almost exactly what I had in mind. I enjoy your work, thanks.
Exactly what I need for smalls. Thanks Rob~!
You bet
I have just purchased a small entry level table saw that fits my budget. This sled will be perfect for, thank you.
Wishing you good health Rob. You and yours.
Thanks for all there videos.
Thanks . It comments like that which keeps me motivated
Interesting that you made your runners slightly proud of the table, everyone else makes them a tad shallower. I like this method as only the runners contact the table which means less friction.
Thank you Rob. Just what I need before starting some small personal boxes for Christmas. Have a Merry Christmas! 🎁
Boxes sre great christmas presents
Well executed sir!
Thank you kindly!
Thanks Rob I’m only New woodworking I like that you still use planers I have one I think it’s a Jointer planer I’m still learning how to use it properly ❤😊
I definitely need to make two of these. A 90 degree and a 45 degree. I have a large sled, but it would be really nice to have small ones for doing little parts and frames.
Look at that hair! Great video on a simple yet effective (and indispensable) jig that should accompany any table saw. I bought myself a Bosch jobsite saw last year and built a sled for it in much the same way. I use it all the time.
A sled turns any table saw into a very useful tool
awesome
nice to see somebody demonstrating fine tuning
never see anybody with a tv show explain it
Nice small crosscut sled.
Thanks 👍
thanks
You're welcome!
Love the size of this crosscut sled! I work out of a micro-sized shop (San Francisco sized 1-car garage) and have the new Sawstop CTS which I can carry out to the driveway to use it. Every sq inch of my shop gets scrutinized for how much & often the Thing that Fills It will add value to a woodworking project. This smaller sled will be perfect to use with the compact saw. Thanks!
So how do you like the new sized sawstop? I have not touched one yet? How accurate is the fence
@@RobCosmanWoodworking For what it is (very small TS) I like the CTS a lot. It is light, and makes very clean and accurate cuts. Blade alignment & adjustments are easy, the miter slots are surprisingly straight and true for an aluminum top. The fence is extremely accurate on cuts from 0 to 16" or so, as the fence is moved to its extreme limit of 26" from there it progressively gets less stable and reliable. That and not being able to use dado blades on it are its only real limitation, but for me its an easy thing to make up those shortcomings to gain the safety the saw offers. I use the Incra miter fence and with that can cut perfect 45s for miter joints...although all my cuts end up on your awesome shooting board for a final clean-up anyway.
Hi Rob the way you ensured the fence is square with the base is genius. Cutting that rabbit like you said guarantees that it will be square. Easiest way I have seen to square it up.
Best video on TH-cam on how to make a crosscut sled for a table saw. Thank you for sharing you excellent ideas with all of us. Take care. 👍🏻👊👍🏻
Work smarter not harder
5 cuts to a perfect cross-cut sled -William Ng is the best.
Check it
@@johnburns2940you keep posting this yet as seen here it's not needed. If you don't use the rabbit edge then yes it makes sense.
Keep it up Rob! BTW this method only works if your miter slots are perfectly parallel to the blade
On any decent saw that is adjustable and necessary for the proper function of your saw.
Building a cross-cut sled is my current project yet to be started. I was going to build the big one, but now I'm going to do the little one first. Usually I modify instructions, but I think I'll build mine just like this.
Thanks Rob & team for the instruction.
I agree go with a little one first
Watch William Ng "5 cuts to a perfect cross-cut sled"
DO NOT follow Rob's instruction.
Seems like a nice guy, but that jig is iffy.
th-cam.com/video/uccUgHAQB28/w-d-xo.html
@@johnburns2940
@@johnburns2940🙄 Just stop.
Great video!...I'v wanted to make small sled for a while now....Do you sell the Resanaunce wax? Dont care how expensive it is. It works.
Rob. This build looks straight forward. It makes sense. You’re th only one I’ve seen attach the rear guide that way. In theory it should work. Problem is that I can’t mine to end up at 90 degrees to the blade. I just don’t get it. Many years ago. I made a sled in the same manner at a local community college and it was perfect.
Chances are, Rob's sled is not as accurate as you would like, nor as he would like.
He only checked it with a 2" square and said "perfect". Possible, but not likely.
Watch "5 cuts to a perfect cross-cut sled" -William Ng.
At least you will have an option.
If you check out “Making a Crosscut Sled” by Epic Woodworking, Tom Mcloughlan gets a bit more into making everything perfectly square. He uses the three cut method which is actually simpler and equally accurate to the five cut method. It’s the best video I’ve seen on crosscut sleds. th-cam.com/video/uccUgHAQB28/w-d-xo.html
5-cuts is the only ‘feasible’ way to get ‘near’ perfect accuracy. However, an adjustable ‘main’ (back) fence is a must, to ensure one can make micro adjustments after the ‘five-cut’ exercise!! Rob may argue that this level of accuracy is not necessary, but knowing Rob, he would only be satisfied at optimum perfection!! Len (Devon 🇬🇧)
Nicely done! I’ve always thought the 5-cut method for squaring your fence is a lot of trouble for the benefit. Cutting the rabbet for the fence on the table saw is a genius-level WSNH move! (Work Smarter Not Harder 👍)
Give it a try. I think you will like it
5 cut method is a lot of effort for sure, but, if you are cross cutting wider sheet board, the effort is well worth the trouble.
I really enjoy the chanal. And.....one off the flags on the backwall..... is it the danish ? If so, Fun to see... greetings from Copenhagen...
Yes it is Denmark. We had a PHP scholarship student from Denmark
I could not agree more on the robertson (square) head screws. They never cam out. I only buy the combo head ones... in a pinch they can take a phillips driver as well.
I agree with you
My small sled is about the same size and design. Probably the most useful table saw accessory that I own, after push blocks. I estimate I use it 20X more than my large sled.
I agree
Hey Rob, It was good to watch this video, and very nice to see you reach for the hand plane so often to make a board true.
The problem here is that you did not take time to orient the grain on your bubinga mitre slot guides. This can cause binding later on.
If you oriented the guide such that the annual rings are left to right, the runner will expand (ever so slightly) vertically, which will never be a problem. It would only raise the sled perhaps 2 thou. If on the other hand, you "stack" the rings vertically, seasonally these will expand across the grain and your sled will bind in the mitre slot.
So you did that wrong.
It's okay though, you can cut dovetails very well ! My concern is for your students.
"5 cuts to a perfect cross-cut sled" by William Ng is the one to watch.
I know you and your students will have problems with this jig if they follow your instructions.
Just sayin'
I will only use Robinson screws if i dont have torx screws in the size i need.
THANK YOU so much for this video. I am working with a jobsite saw and all the crosscut sleds are for larger table saws. I have been wondering if a sled with a 1/2" base would be sturdy enough for regular use.
Definitely is sufficient. Especially if you're running a less than 10inch blade, you'll appreciate the extra cutting height. Just choose your 1/2 inch material appropriately
I have a Delta table saw job saw and and I Built-in sledge for a lot and I use it quite often just make sure the back piece or you're gonna stick the wood Just make sure that it is square and put a little block behind it cause there's a couple times where I was in a hurry and I've caught the tip of my finger
Glad I could help!
What kind of blade are you using in your table saw?
I've been making crosscut sleds by rebating the fence for YEARS and this is the first time I've seen anyone else do it this way to get perfect 90 degrees. I usually use the "known good" factory corners as well. This way, you can avoid adjusting the fence and needing to use the "five cut" method to tune the thing and it stays truer longer.
Thats why I do it
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I can’t get mine to come out square at 90 degrees. I do exactly what you do. What do you think I’m doing wrong?
@@alfredobanuelos4730 not using the 5-cut method is what you're doing wrong th-cam.com/video/UbG-n--LFgQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi Rob, was there a reason you didn’t make a sawdust relief at the intersection of handhold and base?
Just that I have never found it necessary but I do have to check it before use and make sure there is no sawdust in there. Absolutely you could add a little chamfer for a dust groove if you wanted
So just a little recap for anyone wanting to buid this and remembering things like "five cut method" and so on: The way you made sure that the back is square to the blade was in the very beginning, when you cut that rabet on the table saw, correct? That was before you set your fence to "absolutely parallel", so the slight angle you had before would transfer to the sled. I'm not saying that angle is going to matter, it's just something to keep in mind for people who may not have such a reliable tablesaw (like myself, for example), or plan to cut that rabet with a router.
The rabbet on the wood is to ensure the fence is parallel with the long edge of the board. Because I cut the base perfectly square, then ensured my fence was perfectly parallel to the miter slot, when I attached the base to the miter tracks and held it against the saw fence it ensured the long edge of my base was perpendicular to my saw blade. The one thing I failed to show is that I set up my table saw blade so it is also parallel to the miter slot.
But you are correct, if you table saw is not set up well or you do not know ho set up and align your table saw then this build method wont work
Suddenly my little Bosch tablesaw seems woefully inadequate! Love that sawstop unit. Sigh,,,, budget.
How much is your finger worth? A sawstop is cheap compared to the loss of a digit
how high would you say are the two fences back and front)? something like 3"?
At about 11 minutes he marks the back fence at 3 inches since his blade cuts that high and made the fence well above that mark. He didn’t like how tall it was and so took off about 3/8ths. I hope this helps.
perfect... but I don't trust myself at keeping my hands clear if the blade comes through at the end of the cut....I'll add an extra blade guard/coverup on the closer side...
A great safety idea
'There is little as inspired as watching a woodworker innovate.'
Thanks
Rob, I noticed you using the zero-clearance PVC tape on the top of your table insert. When applying it, do you lower the insert to make the tape flush with the top? I've found that I can't lower my insert quite enough, so I still have a small lip on the leading edge that boards catch on. I've tried sanding the front edge of the PVC down a bit, and that works for a little while then eventually a small sliver of wood gets under it and starts peeling it up. Advice?
That's not PVC tape. That's a wood insert on a zero clearance throat for a sawstop Jake purchased.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ahh I see. I appreciate the clarification
Hi Rob , Jim at Stumpy Nubs pointed me to your site. Can I use ply wood for the base rather than MDF. Not a huge fan of the stuff as we have a damp climate and unless sealed it has a tendency to absorb moisture in a similar fashion to C Y glue. Its expensive enough here in Ireland for what it is,relative to ply. But it is strong enough to use as a jig on my small table saw. I'd never use it for furniture .
Ply is fine but MDF tends to be flatter.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Gotcha, I'll give it that ,its as smooth as .......
Hey are the barber's on strike in Canada?!
Yes. Its horrible!
Why do you have your table saw fence veering away? TIA
By veering the end of the fence away ever so slightly, I do about 1/32, this releives a bit of pressure from between the blade/riving knife and the fence in the event there is any wood bowing or flexing during the cut do to release of pressure in the wood. It helps to reduce the chance of kick back but doesn't affect the squareness of the cut.
j_b_93 answered perfectly
why do you turn your saw fence slightly away?
It ensures that the cut piece doesn’t become a wedge between the fence and the blade and cause a kickback.
Wish I'd known that method of squaring the fence when I built my sleds. As an aside, I add a "block" of wood behind the fence where the blade goes through it so the blade is buried in it and can't reach my fingers.
Thats a very good safety practice
I like your work and your presentation. Very nice. However I doubt the 90 deg. accuracy of this sled. More care is need to get it accurate, and the Internet is loaded with ways to do that. Ned
If the saw is set up correctly then it will be accurate. If your saw is NOT set up correctly then you need to fix that first. And squaring a fence to a blade is not rocket science, no matter what you hear on “the internet.” Do you really think Rob Cosman needs Google to tell him how to make a crosscut sled or “more care” to find a 90 degree angle? 🙄
were you in the boy scouts.?
@rob. Did you have a fight with your barber?
Gday
Back at you
With this build there was no "5 cut method" or square against the blade or anything. What part in the video set your back fence square to the blade? Please don't think I am trying to be confrontational. I just don't understand. Thanks. Some of the comments below regarding buying stuff from you, I would really like a Wood River plane but you can't sell to the U.S. I know I can get them here in the U.S. but I wanted to get it from you.
My fence is parallel to the miter slots, my blade is parallel to the miter slots. I cut the MDF base and checked the diagonals to verify square. Follow the video and nothing else needs to be done.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking thanks for the reply.
You are correct about the fence not squared to the blade. He squared it to the tablesaw fence, and his diagonals measurement of the MDF was his check. It's not reliable though. It's "okay" though, I guess. At the end, crosscutting a 5" board and checking it with a 2" square is misleading.
eup, not bad, not bad a'tall
The holes on the side of Rob's 5 1/2 are increasing each time you release a new video :)
Jake! Worse than a mouse!
Ok, I must have missed a crucial part of this build. Everyone, and I mean everyone, else, seems to have to move the front support rail of the sled at least once to achieve the near perfect square cut. But you cut the base,the miter rails, and then attached the back support rail with glue and screws. No checking for square or 5 cut method or anything ... how? Is it the rabbit that insures the squareness?
He made sure the fence was a square reference then he made sure the sled was square. Then he used the fence to square the sled to the blade. The support rail he made sure was flat and did a rabbit on to ensure it followed the back of the sled and was 90 degrees up.
Most 5 cut sleds don't calibrate the fence to the mitre slot before (and he's got a good fence), and I assume he had his blade calibrated to the mitre slot.
Finally, at this size a few thou over such a short cross cut capacity is going to be irrelevant. If you have a larger sled that's where the accuracy is more important because it will compound.
@@StuartGeers Thanks, that all makes good sense.
Yep.
Guess I cant do this cuz I don't have a rabbet plane.
You could watch the video and see that he demonstrates cutting the rabbet on the table saw. Sheesh.
Why no safety block?
The cut did not call for it
You mean a block on the side of the fence toward the user where the blade comes through? I think those are anti-safety blocks because they wouldn't stop the blade from cutting through it and provide a false sense of security.
Or did you mean something else?
who the heck normally has such a place to build something like that? Can someone not show how to make one for if i am a normal person with no extra money and no big carpentry skills?
Amy….I assume you have a table saw otherwise there is no need to build this jig. This build requires a table saw and a hand plane. I used a band saw to cut the angles on the fences but any saw will do, and you don’t have to cut the angles. For this build to work you need a flat fence. I choose to use sold wood and to plane it flat, however if you do not have a hand plane or do not know how to plane just use a piece of quality flat plywood instead, and you can eliminate the planing. As for the Shoulder plane you can do the same job with a chisel although it will take longer and require lots of test fits. Good luck
You can build that mate! You can build a simple one, in a simple work room. Don't use bubinga, use that white plastic mitre slot material. It comes pre sized to fit. (if you need to tighten up some slop, "pucker" the edge of the plastic by tapping it with a nail set and hammer. This will tighten it up.
Also, use a square to align your fence to the blade. Make that fence adjustable until your test cuts make it PERFECT. Once it is perfect clamp it, and add more screws (and maybe glue). Remember, you can't turn back from glue. Chose the straightest wood available.
You can do it mate. Your shop will get better without all that fancy stuff. 🌅😀