You didn't say the most important mistake, and that's not turning the screw left until they click into place before screwing them back in. This sets the screw to the original threading and prevents making new threads and damaging the plastic. This can be apparent if you open up your controller a few times and screws will no longer hold tightly, but instead keep spinning since the threads are damaged.
You're less likely to strip the philips screws if you try a larger philips screwdriver bit. I've experiences a lot of that, realizing that it's not because "it fits" that it's necessarily the good size to do it. It has to fit tight.
PSA: You don't actually need the metal bar in the z-button for it to reset it'd position, the tack switch the z-button rests on will reset the position for it, all the metal bar does is add tension to the z-button so you're better off removing it.
its insane how you just cant find a real answer lol, you watch a video to learn how to open a controller and then you have more esoteric comments that "actually..."
A little trick for anyone who is opening one of these up only to replace something from the front(joystick/buttons/etc.), you can just remove the front plate with the board resting in the back shell of the controller. This way you don't have to worry about the cord/rumble motors/or the LR sliders at all. The way to do this is: hold the back of the controller with one hand, and put pressure on the joystick and C stick(this holds the board tightly to the rear shell) while you lift the front shell loose from the board. Once it's loose enough, put the controller sideways before removing the shell so your buttons don't fall out of the front shell. Though if they do fall out it's extremely easy to drop them back in.
It probably isn't that the screws are low quality. It's because they aren't actually Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard screws, which often strip with a standard Phillips screwdriver if you aren't careful. FYI, if you ever find a Phillips screw on the outside, it doesn't necessarily mean someone has been tinkering. I bought a Clear/Indigo controller at-launch and it had one Phillips screw on the bottom even though all the others were triwing. It was still sealed in the package. I had it for well over a decade before selling it in 2015.
I’ve watched all your videos because I’ve recently wanted to get into a more competitive side of smash due to the new Super Smash Bros Ultimate coming out(as of Decemeber 7, 2018) I love gamecube controllers and still play some GC game on my wii, but now I have the knowledge to open all of my controllers repair or mod things👌🏼 you’re a real one bro!
Thank you so much for this vid. Awaiting my triwing screwdriver in the mail, figured I'd see exactly what I needed to do- Your whole channel has so much great helpful content.
Thanks for the info about the tall buttons and original buttons, it explains why one of my controller's buttons feel different. (I really like the feel and "click" of the tall buttons)
7:07 - Yup, I did that once. I've taken apart a few controllers and put them back together successfully, but this video still has some nice notes that I didn't know, as all the controllers I've dealt with seem to be from the same (late) production time.
I would also take extra care with the Rumble pack on the back. In my experience it's not always secured to its plastic housing and could fall off and potentially break because of the thin wires. If it does break off because of the wires it would be a simple fix if you know your way around a soldering iron. Still just something to look out for though.
Zenith! These videos have given me a ton of inspiration to fix up and upgrade my controllers, they work but they are very old and pretty beat up. This being said, I ordered a 5 pack of those replacement buttons you demoed from the cheap Chinese sellers online, and some replacement button pads. I think you should review the button pads! There are ones from ZedLabs and GameTown, I think, all found on Amazon and eBay. The thing about these old button pads is that they make your old mushy buttons feel clicky and responsive! I tried them out and honestly, I could never go back. I definitely think you'd like them, and you should totally make a video about them! Thanks for reading this, I'd be surprised if you even got here.
You probably won’t see this but at 9:15 when you point out the trigger slider getting caught and causing the trigger to get stuck a bit cause he’s getting caught. What do I do to make it normal again. I have a controller tester and it shows that the adaptive part of the controller doesn’t work anymore. Just wondering if you could help.
Yo thank you so much for 8:34 if i hadn't found out that the triggers connected to the sliders like that on the controller I would never have figured it out lol.
The "phillips" screws inside the controller might actually be japanese industry standard (or jis), which are slightly different from phillips screws and might be easier to unscrew with a jis screwdriver.
i have one lmao. they are very nice looking. i have my controller with the emerald blue top shell and a black bottom shell and it's a pretty good color scheme
Just found this video. Apparently some stick modules have their boxes made out of plastic and others are metal. Replacing the metal ones need desoldering and halfway removing the black plastic part of the innards
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I didn't realize had that back mounting thing mixed up with another controller, easy fix and both fix perfectly now! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
If you have taken apart other controllers then the rumble moter being in that hump will throw you off because normal controllers (the ones with clickable thumb sticks and 4 sholder buttons) have the rumble motors placed in the grips also gamecube only has 1 rumble motor
I bought a used GAMECUBE controller from a retro gaming store. It's a little dirty and the left analog stick isn't tight. It's weird to explain, but the distance you can wiggle the stick back and forth without actually triggering any movment is way bigger than it should be. Any advice for cleaning it or tightening the stick? I'm probably going to use a little water and a paper towel to get the grime off, and a toothpick for the small space where the shells meet.
One main thing I've seen time and time again, is people screwing the shell on unevenly and either too tight or too loose (sometimes in certain screws not allowing other screws to go all the way in, or making the shell offset from the faceplate, even locking triggers or z buttons because of it).
Really helpful, the part of the z button I was very afraid of screw it up(I didnt know if it can be removed), and also how to close the controller again, thanks man
Hey I think you should do a similar video but with the hori pad controller. Since it's also a pretty common GameCube controller to use in the smash community. I personally would not know what to expect when opening up one of those.
the Hori pad is super weird but really its about the same in things to look out for! just all the button pads are separated and you have to worry about 2x the z-buttons lol
My controller wont close i have been trying for 4 hours now and its just not closing i can like close one part at a time but the problem seems to be comming from the area under tha start button between the dpad and c stick sinc that part i cant close ko matter what
I recently just took apart my game cube controller taking it apart and putting it back together was pretty simple however I noticed after I put it back together the left deepad arrow became very stiff when pressing it I don't know what happened and it never did that before but I can't seem to fix this problem I try to disassemble my controller multiple times however I couldn't get the deep pad to work originally how it used to, can someone please tell me what I did wrong or what the issue is? Feedback is much appreciated thank you
hello! i want to take apart my controller to repair it. it's a knockoff, so it's had this issue from the beginning where the joystick is off center in the hole and i think the thing inside, is twisted? are there any resources for repairing the joystick?
Idk why I’m watching this video but btw pro tip: when you open up your GameCube controller you can remove the thumb stick then use some compressed air on your stick boxes if your sticks are starting to be less responsive. It really helps
Do you have any advice on repairing/replacing/straight-up REMOVING a C-stick that erroneously returns input in one direction? Like, as if you were constantly holding the stick to the right, for example?
that has something to do with the board from thew sound of it. my friend ShinG is a modder and know all about that kind of stuff, I would suggest hitting him up on Twitter!
Ik this is late but i recently bought a replacement shell with new triggers due to my L trigger not working, however now with the new shell the triggers don't even register.
Hey, I know this was made a while ago, but my control analogue stick broke. How do I remove the analogue stick from the controller to replace it. I don’t mean the plastic stick, but instead the actual joystick on the inside of the controller
Is a gamecube wireless wavebird the same way? Is there anything different about disassembling it that I'd need to be aware of? I'm simply changing the sticks out.
i opened mine and now im unable to put it back together -.- its broken anyway so i tried to take some dust out since my controller would not work as well. but im at the last part where i have to put the 2 big parts together before screwing but it wont fit.. dunno why
One question: when I opened up my controller I just simply interchanged the sticks, and when I was done with the controller I went to test it out and for some reason whenever I use the stick my L trigger button gets actioned so idk what to do, could you help me ?
My left analog stick doesn’t fully work. For example when I play super smash I can run right but when I go left I can only walk and same thing with charged A attacks I can’t do them left. Is there any easy way to fix this?
zenith SSBM I stopped using the controller but it happened a few months ago when I was playing smash bros melee, I do a lot of shield dodge rolls then I noticed I didn’t always run when I moved left. If I’m running right and then I want to run left it usually makes them walk unless I try again pushing the stick harder to the left.
there some version varietions you missed. (c stick part there a board with one that can detatch from the main board and re attach fine. Also solder joystick vs the ones with screws in the back.
Oooook, I have a question: My A button membrane broke in my new model Smash GC controller. It was a tall button membrane, so I was gonna switch it for the membrane on an old controller I have until I saw this and realized they're different. However, both controllers have equally sized buttons. I'm just wondering what that means. Are they tall buttons and that's why my membrane was breaking?
anyone know a good place to buy replacement parts? namely thumbsticks? the one place i found doesn't have particularly great review scores on the quality and fit of their sticks.
hey, so this is a more intense mod. But ive tried it a few times and failed. I'm trying to make a paracord cable for the controller, I tried cutting the cord, sliding the paracord on, and soldering it all back together, but the gamecube doesn't like that, it only sometimes recognizes the controller. The only other way I can think is desolder the cable from the board, but my controller has a plug like object that all the wires go into, and i can't fit the paracord over that. Long story short, would you be able to make a video on how to put on paracord over the cable?
I have a GameCube controller that has a bad cord the only way to use it is if I put it in a good position. I’m trying to change the cord as well I tried desoldering it but they did a good job with it. Might as well get a new one some are like 12 dollars.
I opened My controller and the plastic that lets you screw the to shells back together broke off, i can still screw in All the other screws but the one behind the c stick can. Any way to fix this issue?
I still can't figure out the difference between the two button pads; I ordered battle beaver buttons and I ordered them tall y looking at their recommendations for choosing since I have an OG Gamecube controller, but I've never seen tall buttons in a controller so I legit don't know if I ordered the wrong ones or not.
How would you recommend removing a stripped screw from the trigger guard? I bought a controller recently and was going to swap the metal bars from it into my main controller, but one of the screws is pretty badly stripped.
The way a machinist would do it is drill it with a left hand drill bit (one that cuts in the opposite direction of normal) Of course, that's not something I would expect normal people to do, but another option is to cut a slit into the head of the screw to turn it into a slot, to try and take it out with a flathead screwdriver.
You mentioned those back shells with the phillips screws. I have an original Nintendo-brand controller I got it in 2005 and it doesn't have the back shells or the metal brace. When I opened it I could literally see the trigger and spring. Why is this? I love your content by the way.
@Zenithssbm I accidentally dropped my gc controller and it moves on it’s on and the week after but now for every 50-70 steps it moves. How can I fix it but this one is the jp blue. And not my old gray us one
Zenith thanks! Im super late but I have a few issues. One is that I've swapped out my control stick for another and it feels sooooo sluggish. Like I cant go across a character select screen and move up or down without it being sluggish on my swapped stick but the original stick still works. Do I gotta sand something down? On another control I've swapped our the start button and I've got the padding there. It's weird... but that mug isn't working lol. If I swap back to the original it works though. Any ideas? Also thanks again for the videos. These have helped me a TON. I've had successful button swaps and they're working great - but some of these custom buttons just aren't working for me
Hey man love your videos about gc controllers but I was wondering just like last year if you were going to shine this year because it would be cool to meet you
whenever i put in the plastic shield that covers the L and R buttons, it seems that the buttons dont spring back up and pushing down on them, help please.
Thanks to this video, I too decided to mod my GC remotes, but I came across something confusing. on battle beaver site, it shows the old controllers having "Tall" rubber pads and new controllers having short ones. but this video claims the opposite. obviously both of you can't be right... so which is it?
So question. I have an indigo controller that I was attempting to replace the buttons and sticks since the originals were really worn. And as I was putting it back together and making sure that the sliders were up, the R and L triggers don't respond. They go up and down just fine, but it's not registering the input. Is this at all fixable?
my controller doesn't have the little back shells for the shoulder buttons, and my controller board doesn't have the back shells built into it. Do you know anyone who sells those parts? Because my shoulder buttons don't feel right and I would like to see if the plastic shield piece will change anything.
did you buy your controller used? and as far as I know right now, no. but then again I have not ever looked for specific parts like that.What i did do and can recommend is going to ebay and buying broken gamecube controllers for super cheap and using the parts off of that!
Can someone link a video on how to clean the board if it's old? I've seen people use a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol but I don't want to mess anything up
i shell swaped my ultimate controller with my original black one because the ultimate controller is mad stiff and triggers springs are too long but i like the design so i swaped them.
kinda funny i discovered that very recently and had no clue and sitting there wondering how i managed to do plenty of controllers before without an issue
To open mine I just slam it on the floor
AbandonedProgram Okey leffen lol
That's me after loosing in smash bros melee because my controller did not work a shit
#commonmistake
That works to :)
Saul Estrada no johns
the dislike was from a third-party gamecube controller company
You didn't say the most important mistake, and that's not turning the screw left until they click into place before screwing them back in. This sets the screw to the original threading and prevents making new threads and damaging the plastic. This can be apparent if you open up your controller a few times and screws will no longer hold tightly, but instead keep spinning since the threads are damaged.
Without even watching this yet I can already tell you I've probably made most of these mistakes
we all have at some point lol
I dont even own a gamecube controller but I love these videos. Really informative and relaxing to watch.
I second this. I end up rewatching these a lot just to relax
Yeah a lot
I completely agree
You're less likely to strip the philips screws if you try a larger philips screwdriver bit. I've experiences a lot of that, realizing that it's not because "it fits" that it's necessarily the good size to do it. It has to fit tight.
Xnerdz yeah my dad was telling me that
PSA: You don't actually need the metal bar in the z-button for it to reset it'd position, the tack switch the z-button rests on will reset the position for it, all the metal bar does is add tension to the z-button so you're better off removing it.
its insane how you just cant find a real answer lol, you watch a video to learn how to open a controller and then you have more esoteric comments that "actually..."
I used your advice and used a Yugioh Tin as a case for my first tounament. worked super well thanks!
Thanks for uploading!
4:37 this was especially useful knowledge, I didn't know that buttons/button pads are offered in different sizes beforehand.
A little trick for anyone who is opening one of these up only to replace something from the front(joystick/buttons/etc.), you can just remove the front plate with the board resting in the back shell of the controller. This way you don't have to worry about the cord/rumble motors/or the LR sliders at all.
The way to do this is: hold the back of the controller with one hand, and put pressure on the joystick and C stick(this holds the board tightly to the rear shell) while you lift the front shell loose from the board.
Once it's loose enough, put the controller sideways before removing the shell so your buttons don't fall out of the front shell. Though if they do fall out it's extremely easy to drop them back in.
It probably isn't that the screws are low quality. It's because they aren't actually Phillips screws. They are Japanese Industrial Standard screws, which often strip with a standard Phillips screwdriver if you aren't careful.
FYI, if you ever find a Phillips screw on the outside, it doesn't necessarily mean someone has been tinkering. I bought a Clear/Indigo controller at-launch and it had one Phillips screw on the bottom even though all the others were triwing. It was still sealed in the package. I had it for well over a decade before selling it in 2015.
Already knew this stuff but I know people it would help. Great video
I’ve watched all your videos because I’ve recently wanted to get into a more competitive side of smash due to the new Super Smash Bros Ultimate coming out(as of Decemeber 7, 2018)
I love gamecube controllers and still play some GC game on my wii, but now I have the knowledge to open all of my controllers repair or mod things👌🏼 you’re a real one bro!
Thank you, was having the weird trigger issue and didn't know about the trigger sliders. Fixed it! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for this vid. Awaiting my triwing screwdriver in the mail, figured I'd see exactly what I needed to do- Your whole channel has so much great helpful content.
Thanks for the info about the tall buttons and original buttons, it explains why one of my controller's buttons feel different. (I really like the feel and "click" of the tall buttons)
This is such a good video for people that had not opened a gamecube controller! Man I remember how I messed up mine 😂😂
🥱
7:07 - Yup, I did that once.
I've taken apart a few controllers and put them back together successfully, but this video still has some nice notes that I didn't know, as all the controllers I've dealt with seem to be from the same (late) production time.
I would also take extra care with the Rumble pack on the back. In my experience it's not always secured to its plastic housing and could fall off and potentially break because of the thin wires. If it does break off because of the wires it would be a simple fix if you know your way around a soldering iron. Still just something to look out for though.
yup! just super annoying how easily it breaks to begin with
Zenith! These videos have given me a ton of inspiration to fix up and upgrade my controllers, they work but they are very old and pretty beat up. This being said, I ordered a 5 pack of those replacement buttons you demoed from the cheap Chinese sellers online, and some replacement button pads. I think you should review the button pads! There are ones from ZedLabs and GameTown, I think, all found on Amazon and eBay. The thing about these old button pads is that they make your old mushy buttons feel clicky and responsive! I tried them out and honestly, I could never go back. I definitely think you'd like them, and you should totally make a video about them! Thanks for reading this, I'd be surprised if you even got here.
I will look into the button pads! thanks for the heads up :)
Just started getting into competitive smash and I wanted to replace the control stick on my GC controller, thanks for the help!
Appreciate the video. I have an old japanese smash bros controller, all white that's dirty as hell. Dove in to clean it and now playing flawlessly.
You probably won’t see this but at 9:15 when you point out the trigger slider getting caught and causing the trigger to get stuck a bit cause he’s getting caught. What do I do to make it normal again. I have a controller tester and it shows that the adaptive part of the controller doesn’t work anymore. Just wondering if you could help.
Yo thank you so much for 8:34 if i hadn't found out that the triggers connected to the sliders like that on the controller I would never have figured it out lol.
The "phillips" screws inside the controller might actually be japanese industry standard (or jis), which are slightly different from phillips screws and might be easier to unscrew with a jis screwdriver.
Thank you so much. I had so much trouble closing my controller because my rumble was backwards. You saved my controller! :D
I accidentally stripped two of the Philip screws what can I do most ways to remove one don’t work in a really small space update got it out
This really helped with a custom gamecube controller im making, thanks for the awesome video!
glad it helped! :)
I need to get me a emerald gamecube controller.
i have one lmao. they are very nice looking. i have my controller with the emerald blue top shell and a black bottom shell and it's a pretty good color scheme
Numair Salmalin they're pretty expensive huh?
oooo im gonna do Emerald Blue top, Clear back, and Clear Pink buttons. emerald and black sounds cool too
best color imo
Update: I got one!!!!
Just found this video. Apparently some stick modules have their boxes made out of plastic and others are metal. Replacing the metal ones need desoldering and halfway removing the black plastic part of the innards
THANK YOU SO MUCH! I didn't realize had that back mounting thing mixed up with another controller, easy fix and both fix perfectly now! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
LMAO THANK YOU!!! 8:20 I felt like such a dumbass wondering why it wouldnt close and didn't even think of turning the rumble around 😂
If you have taken apart other controllers then the rumble moter being in that hump will throw you off because normal controllers (the ones with clickable thumb sticks and 4 sholder buttons) have the rumble motors placed in the grips also gamecube only has 1 rumble motor
gc motor is best ever.
I bought a used GAMECUBE controller from a retro gaming store. It's a little dirty and the left analog stick isn't tight. It's weird to explain, but the distance you can wiggle the stick back and forth without actually triggering any movment is way bigger than it should be. Any advice for cleaning it or tightening the stick? I'm probably going to use a little water and a paper towel to get the grime off, and a toothpick for the small space where the shells meet.
at 8:12 the inside with the rumble is black in colour i have seen some with purple instead of black any difference??
No I don’t think so
Saved my life. Couldn’t close my controller for like an hour before seeing this and realizing the motor was backwards 🙃
One main thing I've seen time and time again, is people screwing the shell on unevenly and either too tight or too loose (sometimes in certain screws not allowing other screws to go all the way in, or making the shell offset from the faceplate, even locking triggers or z buttons because of it).
Oh wow, convenient timing, I was planning on opening my gamecube controller up sometime soon.
Good luck!
Gonna fix up my controllers today, this helps a lot, thank you.
Really helpful, the part of the z button I was very afraid of screw it up(I didnt know if it can be removed), and also how to close the controller again, thanks man
Hey I think you should do a similar video but with the hori pad controller. Since it's also a pretty common GameCube controller to use in the smash community. I personally would not know what to expect when opening up one of those.
the Hori pad is super weird but really its about the same in things to look out for! just all the button pads are separated and you have to worry about 2x the z-buttons lol
are the trigger guards actually important? i always wondered about them. currently not using them but i still have them in a ziplock bag.
My controller wont close i have been trying for 4 hours now and its just not closing i can like close one part at a time but the problem seems to be comming from the area under tha start button between the dpad and c stick sinc that part i cant close ko matter what
I recently just took apart my game cube controller taking it apart and putting it back together was pretty simple however I noticed after I put it back together the left deepad arrow became very stiff when pressing it I don't know what happened and it never did that before but I can't seem to fix this problem I try to disassemble my controller multiple times however I couldn't get the deep pad to work originally how it used to, can someone please tell me what I did wrong or what the issue is? Feedback is much appreciated thank you
I realize this comment is very old but did you try pulling off and replacing the button pad under the D pad? I wonder if it’s not placed correctly
hello! i want to take apart my controller to repair it. it's a knockoff, so it's had this issue from the beginning where the joystick is off center in the hole and i think the thing inside, is twisted? are there any resources for repairing the joystick?
I stripped one of the phillips head screws today ): my left trigger is registering an input when im not pressing down on it
Idk why I’m watching this video but btw pro tip: when you open up your GameCube controller you can remove the thumb stick then use some compressed air on your stick boxes if your sticks are starting to be less responsive. It really helps
4:24 this right here, was wondering why my two controllers buttons felt different
Do you have any advice on repairing/replacing/straight-up REMOVING a C-stick that erroneously returns input in one direction? Like, as if you were constantly holding the stick to the right, for example?
that has something to do with the board from thew sound of it. my friend ShinG is a modder and know all about that kind of stuff, I would suggest hitting him up on Twitter!
Good to know. Planning on refurbing a wavebird I way overpaid for. So I'm gonna pimp it out with some new buttons to make it feel worth it.
Ik this is late but i recently bought a replacement shell with new triggers due to my L trigger not working, however now with the new shell the triggers don't even register.
Hey, I know this was made a while ago, but my control analogue stick broke. How do I remove the analogue stick from the controller to replace it. I don’t mean the plastic stick, but instead the actual joystick on the inside of the controller
Is a gamecube wireless wavebird the same way? Is there anything different about disassembling it that I'd need to be aware of? I'm simply changing the sticks out.
How did he get custom gamecube shells in battle beavers custom there are only original colors to choose in a controller
i opened mine and now im unable to put it back together -.- its broken anyway so i tried to take some dust out since my controller would not work as well. but im at the last part where i have to put the 2 big parts together before screwing but it wont fit.. dunno why
keep up the good work audio was just fine to me
One question: when I opened up my controller I just simply interchanged the sticks, and when I was done with the controller I went to test it out and for some reason whenever I use the stick my L trigger button gets actioned so idk what to do, could you help me ?
Whenever you close the controller the trigger pegs always have to be all the way up
@@mesoandy8053 thanks bro
My analog sticks rubs off the shell my left analog like if it is stuck in but it’s new?
My left analog stick doesn’t fully work. For example when I play super smash I can run right but when I go left I can only walk and same thing with charged A attacks I can’t do them left. Is there any easy way to fix this?
could be plain broken, when did it start doing that?
zenith SSBM I stopped using the controller but it happened a few months ago when I was playing smash bros melee, I do a lot of shield dodge rolls then I noticed I didn’t always run when I moved left.
If I’m running right and then I want to run left it usually makes them walk unless I try again pushing the stick harder to the left.
Then you probably need to change stickboxes. That requires solder. If you don't know how change maybe is time get new controller.
there some version varietions you missed. (c stick part there a board with one that can detatch from the main board and re attach fine. Also solder joystick vs the ones with screws in the back.
Oooook, I have a question: My A button membrane broke in my new model Smash GC controller. It was a tall button membrane, so I was gonna switch it for the membrane on an old controller I have until I saw this and realized they're different. However, both controllers have equally sized buttons. I'm just wondering what that means. Are they tall buttons and that's why my membrane was breaking?
very informative, about to open my first gc controller and wanted to know stuff like this, thank you
I lost a screw to the outer shell of the controller. Anyone know where I can buy replacements???
Does anyone know why my the left trigger of my controller is stuck. It’s like I have trigger drift and it’s holding it when I’m not pressing on it
Which controller type (older/newer model) is generally preferred
anyone know a good place to buy replacement parts? namely thumbsticks? the one place i found doesn't have particularly great review scores on the quality and fit of their sticks.
hey, so this is a more intense mod. But ive tried it a few times and failed. I'm trying to make a paracord cable for the controller, I tried cutting the cord, sliding the paracord on, and soldering it all back together, but the gamecube doesn't like that, it only sometimes recognizes the controller. The only other way I can think is desolder the cable from the board, but my controller has a plug like object that all the wires go into, and i can't fit the paracord over that.
Long story short, would you be able to make a video on how to put on paracord over the cable?
I have a GameCube controller that has a bad cord the only way to use it is if I put it in a good position. I’m trying to change the cord as well I tried desoldering it but they did a good job with it. Might as well get a new one some are like 12 dollars.
the shoulder sliders got me
my board is stuck on the opposite side from yours, any suggestions ?
It is a first party, used, import from Japan if it matters.
I opened My controller and the plastic that lets you screw the to shells back together broke off, i can still screw in All the other screws but the one behind the c stick can. Any way to fix this issue?
I still can't figure out the difference between the two button pads; I ordered battle beaver buttons and I ordered them tall y looking at their recommendations for choosing since I have an OG Gamecube controller, but I've never seen tall buttons in a controller so I legit don't know if I ordered the wrong ones or not.
How would you recommend removing a stripped screw from the trigger guard? I bought a controller recently and was going to swap the metal bars from it into my main controller, but one of the screws is pretty badly stripped.
The way a machinist would do it is drill it with a left hand drill bit (one that cuts in the opposite direction of normal)
Of course, that's not something I would expect normal people to do, but another option is to cut a slit into the head of the screw to turn it into a slot, to try and take it out with a flathead screwdriver.
I ordered battle beavers 3rd party kit and the c stick didn’t fit my controller any ideas?
3:49 pressed down a few times when they where out, never poped out^^
You mentioned those back shells with the phillips screws. I have an original Nintendo-brand controller I got it in 2005 and it doesn't have the back shells or the metal brace. When I opened it I could literally see the trigger and spring. Why is this? I love your content by the way.
older controllers didn’t come with it
Where do you get your joystick cap replacement?
@Zenithssbm I accidentally dropped my gc controller and it moves on it’s on and the week after but now for every 50-70 steps it moves. How can I fix it but this one is the jp blue. And not my old gray us one
Zenith thanks! Im super late but I have a few issues. One is that I've swapped out my control stick for another and it feels sooooo sluggish. Like I cant go across a character select screen and move up or down without it being sluggish on my swapped stick but the original stick still works. Do I gotta sand something down?
On another control I've swapped our the start button and I've got the padding there. It's weird... but that mug isn't working lol. If I swap back to the original it works though. Any ideas?
Also thanks again for the videos. These have helped me a TON. I've had successful button swaps and they're working great - but some of these custom buttons just aren't working for me
Can you toss a link for the two screwdrivers you use
If I dont like rumble, can I remove the motor?
Is there anyway to open a gamecube controller Without the special screwdriver?
I am just not confidente with online shopping
Hey man love your videos about gc controllers but I was wondering just like last year if you were going to shine this year because it would be cool to meet you
I am! Ill see you there!
awww i was hoping to find something. Thank you for being honest. I will watch some of it to support you :)
whenever i put in the plastic shield that covers the L and R buttons, it seems that the buttons dont spring back up and pushing down on them, help please.
Dude, same
I have the sliders fully up as well, and when I try to move the sliders directly (from when I open it) it doesnt do shield
Thanks to this video, I too decided to mod my GC remotes, but I came across something confusing.
on battle beaver site, it shows the old controllers having "Tall" rubber pads and new controllers having short ones. but this video claims the opposite. obviously both of you can't be right... so which is it?
old controllers have short button pads and tall buttons! hope this helps
anyone here know a reliable source/listing for a replacement button pad? Looking for a tall Button pad membrane, thx
Hey zenith i have a Gamecube controller that had its cord cut can i replace it with a 3rd party cord?
how do i know if my buttons are tall or short?
So question. I have an indigo controller that I was attempting to replace the buttons and sticks since the originals were really worn. And as I was putting it back together and making sure that the sliders were up, the R and L triggers don't respond. They go up and down just fine, but it's not registering the input. Is this at all fixable?
do the sliders work at all when the board is plugged in?
@@zenithSSBM Yeah they work, it just won't register the input on the board part.
Would I be able to do a PS4 Stick or Pro Controller Stick on the Gamecube??
Where do you get your analog sticks from? Those look really nice
Does anybody know if it's safe to wash the button pads? also, is there anything I can do about mushy buttons?
Is there a link to the screwdrivers that were used in the video?
I also learned the hard way that the trigger screws are easily stripped. What can someone like me do if these screws are stripped?
my controller doesn't have the little back shells for the shoulder buttons, and my controller board doesn't have the back shells built into it. Do you know anyone who sells those parts? Because my shoulder buttons don't feel right and I would like to see if the plastic shield piece will change anything.
did you buy your controller used? and as far as I know right now, no. but then again I have not ever looked for specific parts like that.What i did do and can recommend is going to ebay and buying broken gamecube controllers for super cheap and using the parts off of that!
Thanks for the reply! What would you say is a good price for a broken gamecube controller?
Can someone link a video on how to clean the board if it's old? I've seen people use a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol but I don't want to mess anything up
help me my c stick wire broke off is it gone for good or can i fix it
i shell swaped my ultimate controller with my original black one because the ultimate controller is mad stiff and triggers springs are too long but i like the design so i swaped them.
thanks for the rumble motor tip couldnt close mine haha
kinda funny i discovered that very recently and had no clue and sitting there wondering how i managed to do plenty of controllers before without an issue
mine was silent when pushing down so that how i found out