Thanks for this guide, I found it rather usful. I've got a 2014 1l ecoboost and there were some differences: no vacuum hose or pressure sensor. However, I found that there was no need to take the air assembly fully out - the positive terminal is trapped by the air duct and wiring plug, but if you disconnect them you can enough room to get the battery out without taking any more apart saving a little time. One thing I dont think this guide mentions is that after changing the battery you will need to reset the computer. Before even starting with changing the battery check if your radio has a code in the owners book (my 2014 doesnt it just communicates with the computer for the VIM to confirm that it is ok), otherwise you risk locking your radio if you cant enter the code (if it is required). After changing the battery you need to reset the computer, on my 2014 1l ecoboost to do so, just turn on the ignition, press the rear fog light button five times and the hazard warning indicator 3. After a few seconds the battery light on the dash by the speedometer should blink three times. There are computer memory saver devices that you plug into the OBD port, but I felt a little leary about doing so, so I just reset my computer and gave the car a 30 minute drive in varying conditions so that the computer could relearn its parameters. Tools: I think I just needed 10 and 8 mm sockets, a flat heat screwdriver (to release the air duct wiring plug), a air of felt terminal protectors, a wire terminal/connector cleaning tool, some electrical contact cleaner, battery yerminal grease to protect the terminals when secured on the battery from any corrosion, water etc. Some nitrile gloves and eye protection is a good idea (both from anything from using the wire brush but also should there have been any battery acid leaks when you lift out the old battery. Thanks again for the guide.
Thank you, - nice clear guide and the car’s performance has picked up noticeably since the battery replacement. I suppose the systems not draining the battery and straining the alternator, thus drawing more energy from the motor?
on my 2015 fiesta st my negative battery terminal was corroded, I got it all cleaned up now and the terminal ring will not come off and If I pry too much it'll rip the battery terminal out making a mess. Any suggestions? or is there another place to unplug it so I can work on getting it unstuck outside of the car?
Traditionally, the easiest way to remove corrosion from battery terminals, was to poor boiling water over them. This works well, but obviously, there is some danger involved!
I can't find any confirmation of that, but have a look at the battery terminals. If there's a battery sensor either of the terminals, then the chances are the the vehicle ECM may need to know if a new battery is fitted.
I have just changed my battery. I reset the stop start function by pressing the fog light, and hazard lights. I have reset the clock. The date is wrong, how do I reset it and do I have to reset anything else. Cheers
According to our manual: 'On models with electric windows, it will be necessary to reprogramme the motors to restore the one-touch function of the buttons, after reconnection of the battery. To do this, fully close both front windows. With the windows closed, depress the up button of the driver’s side window for approximately 5 seconds, then release it and depress the passenger side window up button for approximately 5 seconds.' Sorry, I can't help with the date, but if you've got the owners handbook, it'll be in there.
I think WD40 may provide short term protection, but it's predominantly a water dispersant. Whereas petroleum jelly provides a physical barrier between the metal of the terminals/clamps and the oxygen in the atmosphere - hence it prevents corrosion. The jelly won't evaporate easily, but the WD40 will disappear in a few days.
Great video dude, respect from Turkey 🇹🇷
Thank you 🙌
Thanks for this guide, I found it rather usful. I've got a 2014 1l ecoboost and there were some differences: no vacuum hose or pressure sensor. However, I found that there was no need to take the air assembly fully out - the positive terminal is trapped by the air duct and wiring plug, but if you disconnect them you can enough room to get the battery out without taking any more apart saving a little time.
One thing I dont think this guide mentions is that after changing the battery you will need to reset the computer. Before even starting with changing the battery check if your radio has a code in the owners book (my 2014 doesnt it just communicates with the computer for the VIM to confirm that it is ok), otherwise you risk locking your radio if you cant enter the code (if it is required). After changing the battery you need to reset the computer, on my 2014 1l ecoboost to do so, just turn on the ignition, press the rear fog light button five times and the hazard warning indicator 3. After a few seconds the battery light on the dash by the speedometer should blink three times.
There are computer memory saver devices that you plug into the OBD port, but I felt a little leary about doing so, so I just reset my computer and gave the car a 30 minute drive in varying conditions so that the computer could relearn its parameters.
Tools: I think I just needed 10 and 8 mm sockets, a flat heat screwdriver (to release the air duct wiring plug), a air of felt terminal protectors, a wire terminal/connector cleaning tool, some electrical contact cleaner, battery yerminal grease to protect the terminals when secured on the battery from any corrosion, water etc. Some nitrile gloves and eye protection is a good idea (both from anything from using the wire brush but also should there have been any battery acid leaks when you lift out the old battery.
Thanks again for the guide.
Thanks for taking the time to add your comments.
I changed the battery on my 2015 ecoboost. I have not reset the computer. The radio seems to work fine. Do I have to do anything?
Thank you, - nice clear guide and the car’s performance has picked up noticeably since the battery replacement. I suppose the systems not draining the battery and straining the alternator, thus drawing more energy from the motor?
Glad it helped. Yes, if the alternator's not having to continually generate electricity, it's a lot easier to rotate.
on my 2015 fiesta st my negative battery terminal was corroded, I got it all cleaned up now and the terminal ring will not come off and If I pry too much it'll rip the battery terminal out making a mess. Any suggestions? or is there another place to unplug it so I can work on getting it unstuck outside of the car?
Traditionally, the easiest way to remove corrosion from battery terminals, was to poor boiling water over them. This works well, but obviously, there is some danger involved!
@SK Reactionz.... How did you get on and what did you use ? I was going to suggest WD40 as it does just about anything 😃
thanks for your help.
You're welcome!
My local garage is saying that the new battery needs to be coded to the car, is this true for a 2013 Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost?
I can't find any confirmation of that, but have a look at the battery terminals. If there's a battery sensor either of the terminals, then the chances are the the vehicle ECM may need to know if a new battery is fitted.
I have just changed my battery. I reset the stop start function by pressing the fog light, and hazard lights. I have reset the clock. The date is wrong, how do I reset it and do I have to reset anything else. Cheers
According to our manual: 'On models with electric windows, it will be necessary to reprogramme the motors to restore the one-touch function of the buttons, after reconnection of the battery. To do this, fully close both front windows. With the windows closed, depress the up button of the driver’s side window for approximately 5 seconds, then release it and depress the passenger side window up button for approximately 5 seconds.' Sorry, I can't help with the date, but if you've got the owners handbook, it'll be in there.
Is there anything else you can use instead of Vaseline which is going to get mucky & yucky ?!? How about wd40 ?
Many thanks...
I think WD40 may provide short term protection, but it's predominantly a water dispersant. Whereas petroleum jelly provides a physical barrier between the metal of the terminals/clamps and the oxygen in the atmosphere - hence it prevents corrosion. The jelly won't evaporate easily, but the WD40 will disappear in a few days.
White lithium grease?
Tool size?
Hi I have 2018 ford fiesta ought new battery
I xoy I sink the setting😅
9
Would of been a great video 40 odd years ago.