I did a similar test on my MG4 SE Long Range 64kwh. I had a moderate drop in power at 3% SoC, which meant it dropped from 70 mph to around 50-55mph. I decided that's my cut-off point to drive safely on certain UK roads 😅. Thank you for completing the remaining 3 to 0% 😊 very informative
Been driving this car in Indonesia for about 1 month or so, getting 5K in ODO. Driving this car almost 800 Kilo in single drive with 3 times charging. Speed at 80 - 120 Km/h. So far so good.
Every time I see these "I got stuck" videos, I'm reminded of my Focus EV, and the drive from Oakville to Napa with "insufficient range" on the display. Fortunately, we made it, and there was a charger at the Restaurant, but it was definitely newer wracking.
the battery sags .. and after drain some % of voltage returns but this is not recomented as limit!!! i guess never go bellow 25% .. dust and mud might pass trough gasoline filter ,,, oUPS sorry wrong guess!!!!!! :D
Hello Bjorn, thanks for all your great reviews and vídeos. I have a mg4 standard with lifepo4 Battery. I was wondering if you, or someone, knew what would be the total tension (volts) of the Battery, when charged to 100% and, when discharged to 0%. Thanks
@@evgenykyselgov9533 but wouldn't a bigger battery account for less stops? It should then get a way better time. Anyhow, since 11months ago, i now own one and doing 2 road trips in it both over 5000km, i can't fault the MG4 Extended Range, awesome machine. For the simplest calculation, it generally does at least 35km for every 10% of battery at 130km/h, giving us about 300km range 10-90%. Still curious how it would rate on the 1000km challenge, especially as in my case preheating in winter was obsolete, so that would save a ton of battery in the tests done.
hi my test in the mg4 is: BATTERY: 64kw ODO: 50.500KM ZERO BUFFER 4,27KW 25KM @ 17.1KWH / 100KM 0% TO STOP* NOT BATTERY SHUNT DOWN , BATTERY TOTAL USED 62.32KW SoH 99.6%
Assuming that is a 104 cell battery (based on 100% charge = 437V at 4.2V per cell) then MG let the battery cells get down to 2.4V before they cut off. That is not good for longevity! To their credit the battery shows 0% at 3.35V per cell but they need to cut off before they get below 3.1V.
Hi Bjorn, long time follower of your channel. I was wondering what portable charger that is that you used? Not the eco flow but the Type 2 to AC plug adapter? I'm going to get an EV next year and would like a similar charger for trips. Thanks in advanced! ps. I checked the description but can't see it mentioned there
From a safety perspective it's important that the car runs out of power gracefully instead of for example locking up with no warning in the middle of driving. Some cars also have inaccurate range estimations near empty, say you're at 10% and you have choice between stopping at a charger on route or trying to make it to your home charger, if the car says you can make it but it actually can't, that's a problem too and you at least need to know when you can rely on the estimate. This is why this type of testing is important, and most people don't usually want to chance it for an experiment, and also slightly degrade their battery by running so low intentionally.
Aaaw gosh 😅 I think I would rather do this test on the open road because I could not do that laps of the carpark lark 😅 you do not have to do that to yourself bro
20kms when you are crawling in a car park, is hardly accurate - most likely scenario when you are out on the country road driving 100km/h or more. So more accurate would be 10 kms buffer when the screen shows 0% battery left.
I thought it was actually a good strategy, allow a decent buffer below zero, so idiots won't be stranded, alloow normal driving for as long as possible, and when it's over , it's over stop. Don't allow the car to proceed after without sufficient charge to drive a meaningful distance. Your parameters are way off kilter, IMHO.
The IKEA security guy watching the parking lot cameras 😳
The test I really wanted too see as an MG4 owner thanks for making this one Bjørn 💪🏻
Hi, are you happy with MG4? For how long you have it?
do you charge at home or in public station, if so is it still worth it?
You are the hero we don't deserve but we need 🙏🙏
I did a similar test on my MG4 SE Long Range 64kwh. I had a moderate drop in power at 3% SoC, which meant it dropped from 70 mph to around 50-55mph. I decided that's my cut-off point to drive safely on certain UK roads 😅. Thank you for completing the remaining 3 to 0% 😊 very informative
You made me get my very own MG4. Thank you for this channel and all the work you put in it!
🤣I love the classic Ikea car park zero mile test, perfect balance of nerding out over charging stats, motion sickness & comedy
You should have taken another MG4 with you, I was able to charge my MG5 from my MG4 V2L at 5.4kW.
TB classic: hold on strong until the bitter end .. Now we know how to handle in case it must be, so don‘t stop, there‘s always hope!
Been driving this car in Indonesia for about 1 month or so, getting 5K in ODO. Driving this car almost 800 Kilo in single drive with 3 times charging. Speed at 80 - 120 Km/h. So far so good.
Thanks for your sacrifice!
The EV community really should eract a statue of you :-) Awasome work
Bjorn: "finally". You are the only one person who wants to have an empty battery in EV on this planet
MG4 XPower been spotted at UK Dealers,429bhp 😳
Good to know, as I’m seriously considering getting an MG4 soon.
Every time I see these "I got stuck" videos, I'm reminded of my Focus EV, and the drive from Oakville to Napa with "insufficient range" on the display. Fortunately, we made it, and there was a charger at the Restaurant, but it was definitely newer wracking.
Maybe consider driving with the windows down (especially when cold) to keep from getting dizzy.
the battery sags .. and after drain some % of voltage returns but this is not recomented as limit!!! i guess never go bellow 25% .. dust and mud might pass trough gasoline filter ,,, oUPS sorry wrong guess!!!!!! :D
You are the reason why I finally decided to get a Tesla. Keep doing what you are doing.
wow thats impressive, 😂 fair play for going out and giving us this knowledge its so valuable to help those like me that need this information 🎉❤
Hello Bjorn, thanks for all your great reviews and vídeos. I have a mg4 standard with lifepo4 Battery. I was wondering if you, or someone, knew what would be the total tension (volts) of the Battery, when charged to 100% and, when discharged to 0%. Thanks
Hi, for how long you have MG4? Are you happy with it? Thanks
Takk bjørn.
Yes, that "charging door open" warning during charging would not annoy me at all...
Thanks for showing us :)
Any chance you can do a small review of the MG4 Extended range?
i think you will see the same, MG4 Ext Range has the same chemistry of battery as MG4 Long Range, it's just bugger but buffer should be the same
@@evgenykyselgov9533 but wouldn't a bigger battery account for less stops? It should then get a way better time.
Anyhow, since 11months ago, i now own one and doing 2 road trips in it both over 5000km, i can't fault the MG4 Extended Range, awesome machine. For the simplest calculation, it generally does at least 35km for every 10% of battery at 130km/h, giving us about 300km range 10-90%.
Still curious how it would rate on the 1000km challenge, especially as in my case preheating in winter was obsolete, so that would save a ton of battery in the tests done.
hi my test in the mg4 is:
BATTERY: 64kw ODO: 50.500KM ZERO BUFFER 4,27KW 25KM @ 17.1KWH / 100KM 0% TO STOP* NOT BATTERY SHUNT DOWN , BATTERY TOTAL USED 62.32KW SoH 99.6%
Wow, 250V means they let cell voltage drop to 2.5V - that is the bitter end!
Indeed way too low even if it is considered as allowed by battery manufacturer. On E-BIKE BMS cuts power at 2.8V.
254v on pack, I feel this pain 🙈
The missed messages are to be found under the tire pressure display (scroll down)
Bjorn please, please, please, don't tell MG4 Long Range because we have a new one with a 77Kwh that it's the real LONG RANGE.
Long Range = 64 kWh
It has been used everywhere. Anything else would be confusing.
Long range + would be the new one. But i know the name confusing^^
@@bjornnyland And for the 77Kwh = Extra Long Range?
Open the video because I thought it was the 77 kWh, but it's not. They could have used less confusing names at MG.
@@leandroparla79577kWh is called Extended Range
ABC = Always Be Circling 😵💫
Björn, when are you testing Xpeng G9 with 1000km challenge etc?
Thanks, very interestin and informative vidoe
When will you be doing more Atto 3 coverage in europe? :)
🎶How deep, how deep is your buffer, I really gotta know...🎶
😂
Assuming that is a 104 cell battery (based on 100% charge = 437V at 4.2V per cell) then MG let the battery cells get down to 2.4V before they cut off. That is not good for longevity! To their credit the battery shows 0% at 3.35V per cell but they need to cut off before they get below 3.1V.
Hi Bjorn, long time follower of your channel. I was wondering what portable charger that is that you used? Not the eco flow but the Type 2 to AC plug adapter? I'm going to get an EV next year and would like a similar charger for trips.
Thanks in advanced!
ps. I checked the description but can't see it mentioned there
Congratulations on being sponsored by Rivian.
how you fix and arrange the parameter on the app to see all you need , and so big vale view?
Phoenix Down battery FTW
What app did you use on your phone
Special thanks to Bjorn's understanding wife XD
Did you happen to also do an acceleration test with the MG4? To me it didn't feel faster than a corsa-e.
Flashing battery icon with 1% indicated should be some kind of warning...
When entered in turtle mode?
1:37 in the aftermoon
I've driven an EV for years and never run out of juice so not sure how important this test is in the grand scheme of things.
From a safety perspective it's important that the car runs out of power gracefully instead of for example locking up with no warning in the middle of driving.
Some cars also have inaccurate range estimations near empty, say you're at 10% and you have choice between stopping at a charger on route or trying to make it to your home charger, if the car says you can make it but it actually can't, that's a problem too and you at least need to know when you can rely on the estimate.
This is why this type of testing is important, and most people don't usually want to chance it for an experiment, and also slightly degrade their battery by running so low intentionally.
Like a Baussss!
12:34 Nice clickbait thumbnail.
That was really a deep one 😅
Aaaw gosh 😅 I think I would rather do this test on the open road because I could not do that laps of the carpark lark 😅 you do not have to do that to yourself bro
Ikea location isnt the best. Normal road with normal drive will give the correct km below 0%.
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20kms when you are crawling in a car park, is hardly accurate - most likely scenario when you are out on the country road driving 100km/h or more. So more accurate would be 10 kms buffer when the screen shows 0% battery left.
I don't get it!
I thought it was actually a good strategy, allow a decent buffer below zero, so idiots won't be stranded, alloow normal driving for as long as possible, and when it's over , it's over stop. Don't allow the car to proceed after without sufficient charge to drive a meaningful distance. Your parameters are way off kilter, IMHO.
Musk find out 😎
You don't go to the back roads now? , where a farmer helped you, and ionic 6 guy and kid too..
Not today.
Drive the opposite direction fir a while. Problem solved
That's what I did and it didn't make it better.
@@bjornnyland Did you open windows?
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