Jake... Thanks so much for explaining color separation.. I was having a hell of a time. Saw your video never even thought of doing the temperature.. works awesome thank you..
At 105 degrees most people are already in some kind of panic mode because they know there's always 1 or 2 things left to do before you get it in the pressure pot, tighten down all four wing nuts and get the air in. Im just saying, unless you've been doing this for some time most people start to panic because nobody wants to waste several hundred grams of resin and either dye or power. Or dye and powder,haha. Like always Jake, Great vid. Thank you for it.
Another great video and teaching technique Jake. Good job. You make me want to get a pressure pot and try some casting. I have been holding off up until now. I want to experiment now with table top and other thin pour epoxies.
great video awesome details, it is shocking how many resin videos are out there but I have literally never seen anyone other than you even discuss this in their videos.
I know it's an old video but I get great results with 100% separation using slow set resin but it is a much longer process, I mix up the resin, separate and add colour and will leave it to thicken up, using a deep pour resin means it doesn't have that fast reaction setting so you can wait till it has thickened up quite a lot without the need to rush also most if not all bubbles will have gone by that time and then when it is just barely pourable as in it takes a long time for it to pour out the cups is the time to pour it (I don't use a heat monitor just go by feel and timing) and add swirls then pressure pot it and because the curing happens over hours rather than minutes you can even create certain patterns especially if you let it get really thick and by tilting the mould to create definitive lines, also you can create mould sections like I have loads of offcuts of old silicone moulds in various shapes that I pop in let cure the pull the bits out and fill in with other colours, you even creat the same shape but at different sizes, big to small and keep replacing to create definitive ring shapes of different colours within the blank which is good for quick set resins, so many things can be done! Resin such a fun thing to work with.
I just did a graffiti pour with 8 colors into clear over a 5 blank mold. It was just over 105F when I started dropping the colors into the clear in the molds. Too late...It was a neat effect, the colors sank about 2/3 of the way but they curved towards the sides of the molds creating a clear tunnel through the blanks. Not a total failure but not what I had in mind. I am learning that timing is indeed a major factor.
I'm glad you made this video Jake. I have been experimenting on heat times to pour the colors in to the molds but often get scared and do it too early. I just bought some Alumalite water clear. It's not the same as the clear slow but hopefully it will work just as well. I have found that I cannot get a good polish on Alumalite but I might be using the wrong one or my polishing skills are broken. Have you ever used the water clear version? Keep up the very informative videos and greetings from South Louisiana.
Ok so did my first pour just now.... nerve wracking for sure. So what happens if you take it to 110 degrees? Was a hybrid 3 and did a fordite as well. Will let you know how they turn out!
Nice blanks. I also got some good news I finally use my micro mesh pads they were a very big help on shaping the piece is now crystal clear but I have some cracking on the back side but I was wondering if you can recommend any ideas to fix the cracks on the back
hi, I need some advice for my project. I would like to make some marble effect chess pieces, with well separated lines, that can be seen both on a white and colored base. Any tips (using pit molds)? for example a two-color marble effect: white base and blue effect or purple base and white effect. thanks for help and congrats for your videos
You mentioned the gloves you use are 7mil thick. I can’t find any on Amazon yet. Would you please tell me where you get yours and the brand name, please. Thank you so much for your help.
Jake Thompson Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly. I’ll look for 5mil instead. Your “how to” videos are very nice of you. I know you don’t have to make them but one thing about YT videographers is the desire to help each other. I really admire that about you guys. Take care.
@@JakeThompson yes did it buy weight, left it in pot 2.5hrs. So far I learned I should have hot glued one down because it floated up a but a left a space unfilled. Next question.....so can I add more epoxy to it and put back in pot? Got very little air bubbles. What happens if your 12 mins elapse but your epoxy has not reached 90 or 95? Was warm earlier in shop so it got to temp quickly, cooler now.
@@kandiecandelaria1423 12 mins is about an average .. if it’s colder in your shop, you will have more working time. If it’s hotter, you will have less time.
I use a mask when I’m not speaking on camera. I find when I’m wearing a mask or respirator it’s hard for the audience to hear what I’m saying.. I hope you enjoyed the video.
@@JakeThompson Yes. Informative video! Could be good to tell the audience about the respirator so people don't think it's okay to work with resin without. :)
Awesome job Jake! Great way to show how it's done, the examples really speak for themselves
Zac Higgins Thanks Zac!! I’ve been wanting to do this for a while.. just to see a side by side.. glad you liked it!!👍👍👊
Jake... Thanks so much for explaining color separation.. I was having a hell of a time. Saw your video never even thought of doing the temperature.. works awesome thank you..
Very welcome. Glad I could help 😎🤓
At 105 degrees most people are already in some kind of panic mode because they know there's always 1 or 2 things left to do before you get it in the pressure pot, tighten down all four wing nuts and get the air in. Im just saying, unless you've been doing this for some time most people start to panic because nobody wants to waste several hundred grams of resin and either dye or power. Or dye and powder,haha. Like always Jake, Great vid. Thank you for it.
Thanks Michael… it was definitely a fun experiment.. I’ve only poured any hotter than that on accident lol
The pen blanks remind of Peacock feathers. Great video I for one appreciate the time and money spent on these informational videos.
Thank you Dan! I’m glad you enjoy them.. it does take a lot.. it’s cool to help folks out though. 👍👍
Another great video and teaching technique Jake. Good job. You make me want to get a pressure pot and try some casting. I have been holding off up until now. I want to experiment now with table top and other thin pour epoxies.
You will definitely have fun Rob. 👍
Great tutorial video. Glad you did this video
Thank you !! Glad you enjoyed! 👍👊
Awesome. All of them look great in their own way. Great experiment.
Thank you Joyce.. it was lots of fun.
Great video. Clear, informative, and thorough. Thanks!
great video awesome details, it is shocking how many resin videos are out there but I have literally never seen anyone other than you even discuss this in their videos.
Thank you.. I just try to show the things that I had questions on. 👍👍
Thanks; this was really helpful
👍👍
What a gr8 video! Your vids ALWAYS have such practical information. Thank you!
Thank you John.. I just explain it how I would understand it.. 👍👍👊
Good info! Maybe one day I’ll get back to an epoxy project and utilize this technique! Thanks brother 👊🏻
Thank you for watching buddy!! 👍👍
Thank you so much for this video!! I used this method to pour 2 small-ish bowl blanks and they turned out so awesome!!!!!
Awesome!! I’m glad you found it useful. 😄👍👊
Awesome as always...👊🤛🤛🤛👊
Thank you Buddy!!👍
I love these experimentation videos you are very clear on documenting and explaining your processes, extremely helpful! Thank you!
Thank you! I appreciate it!👍👍
I'm actually planning on making my first pen blanks this weekend. So this video really helps. Great information.
Thank you Angi! I hope they turn out well!!👍👍
Another great experimental / instructional video
Thank you!! I. Glad you enjoyed it!👍
Jake Thompson I did and your the reason I use the resin that I do
I know it's an old video but I get great results with 100% separation using slow set resin but it is a much longer process, I mix up the resin, separate and add colour and will leave it to thicken up, using a deep pour resin means it doesn't have that fast reaction setting so you can wait till it has thickened up quite a lot without the need to rush also most if not all bubbles will have gone by that time and then when it is just barely pourable as in it takes a long time for it to pour out the cups is the time to pour it (I don't use a heat monitor just go by feel and timing) and add swirls then pressure pot it and because the curing happens over hours rather than minutes you can even create certain patterns especially if you let it get really thick and by tilting the mould to create definitive lines, also you can create mould sections like I have loads of offcuts of old silicone moulds in various shapes that I pop in let cure the pull the bits out and fill in with other colours, you even creat the same shape but at different sizes, big to small and keep replacing to create definitive ring shapes of different colours within the blank which is good for quick set resins, so many things can be done! Resin such a fun thing to work with.
👍👍👍👍
Those are really pretty!
Awwww Thank you Kelley!! 😁
I just did a graffiti pour with 8 colors into clear over a 5 blank mold. It was just over 105F when I started dropping the colors into the clear in the molds. Too late...It was a neat effect, the colors sank about 2/3 of the way but they curved towards the sides of the molds creating a clear tunnel through the blanks. Not a total failure but not what I had in mind. I am learning that timing is indeed a major factor.
Indeed Sean.. most of the time when I don’t get exactly what I want.. I still like it.. 😄
Great stuff, 1st multicolored pour was a failure. Started with two big of a pour. Good to watch your pours with similar Texas weather.
Go Texas .. lol Thank you!👍👍
Great informational video.
Thank you Michael! I appreciate it!👍
Great information, Jake! I've never reached 105, but the color separation is always something I'm working to get better with.
It’s a challenge isn’t it.. lol I have to practice.. 👍👊
Jake Thompson There’s definitely things I’ve learned over time, and continue to learn.
Nice video. Cheers Jake 👍💯
Awesome !! 👍👍👊👊
Great information. Thanks!
Thank you Stephen!!👍👍
Great tip's
Thank you for watching!👍
Great info. Same rules apply for thick sets just waiting longer for temps to rise i assume?
I haven’t tried it in the deep set epoxy.. but I’m assuming so..
I'm glad you made this video Jake. I have been experimenting on heat times to pour the colors in to the molds but often get scared and do it too early. I just bought some Alumalite water clear. It's not the same as the clear slow but hopefully it will work just as well. I have found that I cannot get a good polish on Alumalite but I might be using the wrong one or my polishing skills are broken. Have you ever used the water clear version? Keep up the very informative videos and greetings from South Louisiana.
I haven’t used the water clear but I have a sanding and polishing video th-cam.com/video/ufMrZeyx0G8/w-d-xo.html
Ok so did my first pour just now.... nerve wracking for sure. So what happens if you take it to 110 degrees? Was a hybrid 3 and did a fordite as well. Will let you know how they turn out!
As long as you get into the pressure pot in time.. it’s all good.. you got this
Thanks for the info!!!!
Thank you Emmett!😂
Fantastic comparison video. Would love to see the epoxy version, although the resin community has me almost convinced to try clear slow. :)
Jerry Wagoner The clear slow is my go to for sure! I’m glad you enjoyed the video.. the epoxy one will be out in 2 weeks 👍👍
@@JakeThompson Two weeks... well considering how long it takes for epoxy to cure, that sounds about right. ;)
They all came out really nice Jake. I guess you have be kind of like a made scientist with those pours! lol Take care! 👍
It’s a lot of fun just playing around with this stuff.. Thank you, I appreciate it!
Nice blanks. I also got some good news I finally use my micro mesh pads they were a very big help on shaping the piece is now crystal clear but I have some cracking on the back side but I was wondering if you can recommend any ideas to fix the cracks on the back
THEAPRILFOOL 1983 can you fill the cracks with more resin?
@@JakeThompson thanks
hi, I need some advice for my project. I would like to make some marble effect chess pieces, with well separated lines, that can be seen both on a white and colored base. Any tips (using pit molds)?
for example a two-color marble effect: white base and blue effect
or purple base and white effect.
thanks for help and congrats for your videos
When you want separation.. each epoxy is different.. certain temps will encourage color separation.
This is very interesting 👍🏻 I wonder how it would look if you use different opaque glitters 🤔
BTW, May The Schwartz Be With You 😉
Mmmm Glitter.. Lol 😂
9
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!! 👍👊
Hello 👋🏻 master
Can you bend them by heating like acrylic rod?
@@mdhadliner24 I’ve never tried it, but I’m sure it would
@@JakeThompson i want make pipe stem 🤔🤷🏻♂️
@@JakeThompson what's the type of this resin exactly?
I'm in iran 😔
👍👍👍
👍👍👊👊
You mentioned the gloves you use are 7mil thick. I can’t find any on Amazon yet. Would you please tell me where you get yours and the brand name, please. Thank you so much for your help.
Elaine Treadwell mine are 5mil thick. I have some 7mil, but they are expensive. I usually get mine from harbor freight.
Jake Thompson Thank you so much for getting back to me so quickly. I’ll look for 5mil instead. Your “how to” videos are very nice of you. I know you don’t have to make them but one thing about YT videographers is the desire to help each other. I really admire that about you guys. Take care.
What happens if I Demond and it’s still soft? Can I put in back in pot?
How long did you leave it in the pot and did you measure the parts by weight?
@@JakeThompson yes did it buy weight, left it in pot 2.5hrs. So far I learned I should have hot glued one down because it floated up a but a left a space unfilled. Next question.....so can I add more epoxy to it and put back in pot? Got very little air bubbles. What happens if your 12 mins elapse but your epoxy has not reached 90 or 95? Was warm earlier in shop so it got to temp quickly, cooler now.
@@kandiecandelaria1423 12 mins is about an average .. if it’s colder in your shop, you will have more working time. If it’s hotter, you will have less time.
@@JakeThompson so you just keep mixing till it gets to 90-95 degrees?
@@kandiecandelaria1423 yes.. that’s what I do
im so sorry for the stupid question but is this in farenheit or celcius?
Not stupid.. it’s in Fahrenheit 👍
Why don't you use a face mask? Does not all resin have a chemical reaction that produces vapors that causes damages to the lungs?
I use a mask when I’m not speaking on camera. I find when I’m wearing a mask or respirator it’s hard for the audience to hear what I’m saying.. I hope you enjoyed the video.
@@JakeThompson Yes. Informative video! Could be good to tell the audience about the respirator so people don't think it's okay to work with resin without. :)
@@linneab2103 good idea. 😀
@@linneab2103 th-cam.com/video/Vg7qR1EYUn0/w-d-xo.html