Resin Casting - How to Avoid Color Blending
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Today I will show you how to get awesome color separation in your resin castings. It is a let down when our resin castings have blending in the colors when we are looking for nice clean color separation, or swirls. All resins or epoxy will require different techniques to get the same results. I used Alumilite clear slow and Eye Candy Pigments mica powder for the color.
I'm happy I could help you out if you were having a problem with your colors blending.
#resincasting #alumilite #resinart
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I enjoyed the video very much. Great job in teacing the concepts. I asked questions on the previous video I watched and this video answered several of the questions.
Thank you Rob.. glad you enjoyed it 🦾👍
This is an excellent video on how the pour temperature affects the look of resin when mixing colors! Alumilite Clear Slow and Eye Candy are solid products and this video was concise and informative. I'll bookmark it and watch it again later, for sure. Thanks Jake!
Awesome Ashley.. Thank you for watching and participating all the time.. 🚀🚀
Awesome visual examples of how temperatures affect resin and colors. Thank you Jake! 🔥💙🔥💙
Very welcome Jenny 💙💙
wow that is really cool! Never seen this done before.
Thanks Blake.. it makes on heck of a difference. 🦾🦾
Thanks for the video. Just starting out casting resin and have had both results. Now we know why.
Awesome!! Glad I can help out.. Thanks for joining in👍👍🤓
Thank you for sharing this was helpful
Very welcome Patricia, glad you enjoyed. 👍👍
So want to start this! Thanks!
Very welcome Shane 👍
Really like the clear and color mixed together.
Thank you Angi 🤓
The color separation is awesome even for the color impaired
That brown was beautiful buddy.. 🤓👍
Finally, the answer to the questions I've been asking! Thanks Jake
Very welcome Derek. 👍
Great video Jake, easily followed directions, thank you buddy!😁👍
Thanks for joining in Huey!! 💪💪👍
Awesome video!!! We can always count on you awesome tips!!!
💜💜
This video will really help me and my sister with our projects
Awesome.. I’m glad I could help out. 👍👍
@@JakeThompson and apparently I need to start being really careful of what I cast in resin cuz some of the leaves I collected from one of the houseplants apparently the leaves are poisonous so now I got to take extra caution when handling but I guess it's luck that the leaves are dried out
Super Cool Jake!!!
Thank you Carey 👀💙😃
I love the two castings at 105F. I would have loved to see you use at least 2 colors since that is the title of the video. How to keep them from blending together. Unless I missed the point. But still cool. In CURA 3D printer slicer there is a setting to create a "MOLD". I wonder if TPU filament would make for a good Mold? This is at least, to try, a lot cheeper than investing in a 3D resin printer. But for larger projects I can see it getting expensive. At least if you buy the "Amazing Casting Resin" Product.
I think you may have missed the point. But it’s ok.. red is one color and pretend clear is another color.. I have lots of turning videos on my channel with multiple color blanks, I think if you see one of them, then you will get it
I love all the information you put in your videos. Even I can understand them :)
😂😂 You got this Anita 💪👍
Jake another great informative show buddy
Alan
Thank you Alan!! 👍
Thank you so much, I always wonder why my colors blend and this is a very helpful video for changing outcome on all pours.
Very welcome, glad I could help. 🤓
Great video and visual reference
Cheers
Rob
Thank you Rob 👍👍
Jake, this is really helpful. I’m wanting to get cloud effects in blanks I plan to cast and this, along with your demonstration using syringes will help with that.
Awesome Mark.. Glad I can help ya out!!
Great video and explanations Jake
Thanks John.. 👍👍
PErfect Jake, i learned today to. Temperature is so important, Thank you so much. This is some of the effect in colour i am looking for, try this next time. :)
Greetings
Hans Olav
Thank you Hans.. I’m glad you enjoyed the video
Thanks great video well edited.
Thank you Chelsea.. 😀😀
Awesome, Jake. You really do explain it well, as usual. Thank you for that. Also, maybe just me, but, I think the warmer pour allows the color to be truer (is that a word?). The warmer pour looks brighter. But like you said, it’s all about what effect is desired. Cool presentation. 👍🏻😉💚
Thank you Kris.. you might be on to something about the bright colors but the colors could be dimmed by the blending.. maybe a chicken or the egg thing 🤓
My learning of the day🙌🙌
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoyed!
Great video Jake.
Thanks Martin💪💪
Awesome job Jake thanks
Thank you Shane 👍👍
Loved this one, Jake! Wish I could make it Saturday morning but I'm doing a craft show to sell some of my turnings! Keep crushing it, man!
Good luck at the craft show.. 👍👍
@@JakeThompson Thanks man! *fingers crossed*
Nice one Jake!!!!
Thank you Homie Joey 👍👍
Great lesson. Thanks!
Thank you Stephen 👍👍
Thank you so much for the great explanation video!
Very welcome.. I’m glad you enjoyed it. 👍👍
Good info. Maybe now I won't get so many purple blanks and bowls when I try to use red and blue resins together! LOL
Thanks Tom.. Purple isn’t so bad lol
Learnt a lot love it
Thank you Jenny
Great info 💜🥰💜
Thank you Connie 💜💜💜💜
Thank you Jake
Thank you buddy, thanks for joining in 👍
loved the video, learned to much. not keen on the red coz it looked like blood lol
I also made blue and copper colored ones. 😂
Great video!!
Thank you Mark. 👍👍
Fun stuff dude.
Thank you sir.. nice to see ya here. 🤓👍
Or you just wait about 20 minutes before adding your colors. When I use alcohol inks w/the white for effects, I'll drop the colors and wait about an hour before making any swirls or whatever, huge difference.
Awesome.. thanks for watching, I’m glad you enjoyed the video. 👍👍
Always helpful Jake, thanks. So at what temp will the slow start to gel? I have probably always been to concerned about the 12 minutes as opposed to the temp? Thanks again!
To be honest. I haven’t pushed it that far. If I start pouring at 105f and the temp is getting hot faster at this point.. By the time I get it into the pressure pot and get pressure in the pot… I’m sure it’s probably around 120 or so.. I might check it on the next live show.
@@JakeThompson Thanks Jake, appreciate your response and knowledge.
Nice video Jake, I would love nothing more than to work with Alumilite slow (I have used it) but it’s just so dang expensive in the uk.
Thanks.. Just move to America.. easy peasy 🤓🤓
fantastic Jake. I have not mastered the temperatures yet. neither the room/working temperature as well as the product temperature. but im working on it. Once when the two components are mixed, can I just let it settle and not need to stir for about 10 minutes? I understand that all epoxy works differently.
Thank you Rudi.. I don’t think it needs to be stirred the entire time but I would think it would need to be stirred a few times in that 10 minutes.. I usually do several colors, so I’m used to just stirring the entire time.
Good to know 👍🏾
👍👍👍
that's so cool! but what is actually making the difference? is it the fact the resin is at 105 F or the fect he waited til the very tail end of the working time before pouring? if you took the 70 degree resin and put in in a hot water bath up to 105 would you get better seperation? If you took the 14 minute old, 105 degree resin and cooled it down right before you pour, would the colors mix? i just got into resin and i have SO many questions
He is me. If you got water bathed resin to 105, you would no longer have working time.. the 12 minute suggested working time is a guideline.. if it’s cold in your shop.. lets say 65f you are going to have a lot more working time than 12 minutes. If it’s 75f you will have way less than 12 minutes.. if you start mixing A and B together at 105 you will have almost no working time before it sets up.
Jake, thanks for the tutorial. Very helpful. I noticed you mix your 2:1 epoxy by weight. Most deep pour epoxies are formulated to mix 2:1 by VOLUME. Because Part A and Part B are different densities, mixing 2:1 by weight is not the same and not as accurate. This could result in bad curing and likely will leave you with more of A or B in their containers when you finish the jugs.
I also measure all by epoxy mixing by weight but I created a calculator that gives me the grams for A & B by factoring in the DENSITY, so the weights of A & B are not 2:1 exactly. Example: I did a 2:1 deep pour calculated to 840g Part A and 360 Part B, not close to 2:1 by weight. A 1:1 tabletop mix I did today was 144g Part A and 120g Part B, again not close to 1:1 by weight. And I have never had a bad pour.
If you're seeing less than optimal results, doing 2:1 or 1:1 by weight might be the reason. But you seem on top of your game. I have created these calculators for several brands of epoxy, both deep pour and table top. I can do others as long as I have the density specs for A & B. I do not charge for my calculators. LMK if you're interested. Cheers.
The resin I used in this video is Alumilite Clear Slow. It is 1:1 by weight.. here’s a video on Alumilite Clear Slow th-cam.com/video/JL7fgcXXgcE/w-d-xo.html
Can you tell me what toaster oven you have to cure your stabilized wood after using the vacuum chamber? I'm trying to find a large one with a drip tray that I can put aluminum foil over to catch the cactus juice. Thanks for your help! Love the videos!
Thank you. I’m glad you enjoy the videos, I have one like this amzn.to/3QCNVzx you only need the temps to be around 200-225f so make sure you get one like this one that starts below 200
Oh, I am assuming at the beginning of the video you were talking about not having two different colors mix together. In one resin cast.
Yes… it’s easier to see the separation when I use a color and clear.
Hello Jake. Great video. This is my first time discovering your channel. Just curious, what happens if you wait till like 130? Have you tried it hotter and it doesn’t work? My question is because it works so well at 105, how well will it work at 130-ish? Sorry if you already addressed this in other comments. I did not read them first. But again, thanks for the video!
Glad you found the channel… I think alumilite clear slow at 130 wouldn’t be liquid anymore… at 105 you have just about enough time to get it in the pressure pot and pressured up before it starts to solidify.. I hope that makes sense. 👍
@@JakeThompson absolutely! Thanks for such a quick response!!
I use some epoxy I buy off amazon or from a local guy that started making epoxy for the cypress clocks (back in the day). So I’m not sure what temperature would be good for those. I’ll have to do some testing. Thanks again!
How did you know to wait until the 2nd batch was 100F before adding it to the mica powder? Is there a chart for this on other resins?
Trial and error and asking resin buddies is how I learned.. most resins are going to give you a safe working time to go by, but the temperature in your area will shorten or lengthen that working time.
What's the best method(s) for measuring temperature, for a beginner?
Use a temperature gun.. amzn.to/42TLbDb
What kind of difference would it make if you used alcohol or paste colours instead of the mica ?
Thank you… It’s the same separation. I haven’t done it with alcohol inks but it should be the same.. I have used pastes
I notice that you are mixing your hardener and resin at 1:1 by weight. Have you compared the molecular weights of the two. 1:1 or rather it 1:2 with different epoxy products is a volume measure in most all cases. Are you sure that you are mixing the correct amounts. Hope so, I am just wondering. D
Alumilite clear slow is measured by weight.. I’m pretty sure I’m measuring this resin correctly. 👍
Cool! Stay good at it!
I am using Wealike resin. It is a 2:1 mixture. How can I avoid color blending with this?
I would go to the end of the working time and then start taking temperature.. I’ve never used it so you will have to experiment with temps
What if we don't have a pressure pot? Letting it sit at room temperature to cure, how does that affect the colors?
Alumilite clear slow requires a pressure pot, but the same principles apply to resins or epoxies that don’t require a pressure pot but different temperatures will be needed for different resins than clear slow.
@@JakeThompson thank you 😊
Hi Jake do you use mold release with your molds
Hello Jeff.. I do use mold release on my silicone molds.. UMR from alumilite … Jake10 at checkout
Thanks Jake I will
why would the resin be heated up when u stired them? thanku
When you mix part a with part b it creates a chemical reaction. The chemical reaction is what be heating up the resin.
can you do it without the pot
Not with alumilite clear slow, it requires a pressure pot, but you can with resins that don’t require a pot.. but the temperature probably won’t be the same
First :D
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Hey my friend how are you doing I didn't know if you had my mailing address I wanted to confirm you had the correct mailing address to send the woodturning. I also wanted you to send me five or six of your stickers with the wood turning. My email is in the show more section of any of my videos please shoot me an email real quick my friend please and thank you
I found your email and received the Donation about to head to the post office..
That's awesome Jake I'm looking so far with to it thank you buddy thank you very much
jake please e mail me that papypal link .it shut down 3 times when im trying to sign in thanks doug
My email is northsidecustomcrafts@gmail.com