Never commented on a video or a channel on youtube before, but just had to say that these videos and your information has cleared up so much for me that I had to say thanks. I have never subscribed to a channel before, but yours are so full of useful information that I had to. Thanks for the videos and I hope you keep going.
Have been using them with my reflux for years, you can also weld 2 kegs together. I run 2 15gal, one plumbed to the other with my reflux on the last keg. Also pony kegs work well as thumpers if there being used. I use natural gas myself but water heater elements do work very well and also I've seen boiler steam piped thru them as well. Great info and explanation!!
Simply amazing. You are way ahead of us and I love it. Would like to see pictures if you get a chance. You can email them to me at george.duncan76@gmail.com Happy Distilling George
I was sitting here, waiting for my parts from Brewhaus to arrive wondering, "I wonder if George has a video on the heating element so I don't have to use propane. Shazzam!!!
George, great video! This Sankey keg still, do you have a video using it? You have been an inspiration to myself and others. I appreciate all your hard work.
Thank you so much for replying to me. I like your channel and find it very informative. And am getting ready to use your three leg stool, all the way up in Ontario Canada. Keep them good tips commin eh
First time to see video...George, when cutting holes in Stainless Steel....slow way down, stainless does not cut, it chips. Slowing down will go faster and save drill bits and hole saws.
Was about to comment saying this, slow and steady, use a cutting fluid and keep everything cool. Just make sure you clean it off really well as cutting fluid isn't the best thing for your health lol. If you go to fast it will get hot, changing the temper of your drill bit/hole saw making it wear out/break quicker while at the same time hardening the stainless, making it more difficult to drill.
Thanks for posting great material. I saw one comment where a guy used two in series and one of them as a thumper. Maybe a video topic for the future. Thumpers!
I found when removing the spear out of a commercial beer keg it’s useful to drill two small holes in the stainless retaining ring and then be removed/replaced with circlip pliers at will
Very good idea,, NOW i was wondering about using a single burner hot plate with the keg sitting on top of it. I am new to all this so I have a ton of questions
Hi George Another great video, I have a questions about the column size. I am in the process of converting a 50L / 13 gallon keg, I was wondering what the advantage of using a 3” column is compared to the 2” column and if I was to use a 3” column would I need to cut and weld a 3” tri clamp fitting onto the keg or is it possible to use the 2” with an adapter to 3”. Thank you Paul
Love your videos,, just a hint, you really did not need to re-drill a second hole, they make SS nuts 1" and a washer with another rubber -silicone washer on the inside would have saved the extra work, but you probably need the clean out hole anyway...
What would i do if i wanted to attach a 4 inch column to the keg? Would i need to cut out the original 2" triclamp ferrule and weld on a new 4" ferrule or would a 4" to 2" reducer be satisfactory?
Do you have any leaking issues? I would assume you would need a weld less bulkhead, but then i cant figure out a way to get the other side of it screwed on the inside of the keg?
I am straight up forward. Your explanation on thermal hydro dynamics is not entirely inaccurate. A heated fluid rising has to be replaced from the bottom with the cooler fluid, meaning that it is circulating because heated fluid rises and is replaced with a cycle of cooler fluid. This is thermal energy. It is NOT stationary as you indicated, the heated fluid is always in motion from the element upwards, creating a continuous cycle in any volume of fluid regardless where the heat originates. However, to be efficient, it needs to be lower in a given volume of a tank to become a circular event. Like you said, preferable above the very bottom to create the thermal motion. However, you are accurate in saying it should not be on the very bottom. There needs to be some space to create motion of the fluid.
Mr. Duncan hope you are doing well today. Along with everyone else.I have a 4-inch cleanout for my keg still is that necessary to put in or will be able to clean it out through the top and just a lower drain? goodday to all
Is the element you put in 115 volt or 220? Also the column you attached to it I noticed it has a condenser on it. I would just want a column to run as a pot still I don't want to use condensing water to chill the vapor... Do they make one without the condenser built into it?
I'm building a 2" copper column for a keg still. Can the copper ferrules be soldered onto the copper pipe instead of using stainless ferrules? I'm wanting to use the tri clamps to make my connections.
It might be a good idea to drill the drain hole at 90 degrees to the heating element. This will eliminate the possibility of interference with the heating element. Not sure if there maybe different lengths.
I had to file 3 inch diameter holes to put domestic 3kw elements in 2 steel 205 litre drums for filtering waste veg oil to run my cars on , i was there for hours and the noise it made wow.
Do you think you could add an element like this to a cheap Chinese Still? that's what I am thinking of doing rather than messing about with an induction cooktop or any cooktop for that matter.
Wondering if your way of just drilling a hole to screw in the heater element will hold up when the keg is heated to boiling. Seems likely to leak when heated if not completely blow out.
15 gal beer keg 2ft head them 15 ft of 1/2 inch worm in a barrel with cold water running after 1gal it just puts out water so what am I doing wrong please help
My question might be dumb, but figured I would ask anyway.. what is the benefit of using a heating element vs one of those propane heaters that are used for the turkey deep fryer pots?
George, What type gasket did you use between the keg and the column? I have a 2 inch by 26 inch tri-clover stainless pipe. Do I use a tri-clover gasket, o-ring, or flat gasket? Also, What size heating element would you recommend for a 13.2 gallon keg IF you were hypothetically going to make a water still
I used the gasket that comes with the column. I would (hypothetically) use a 3500 watt element wired for 240V. If that is not possible and you only have 120 Volts the 2000 watt element will work but heat up time will be a little longer. George
I'm in the process of building my still worth a 15 gallon keg. I was planning on using a propane burner for heat but watching your videos have changed my mind. What size heating element would you recommend for a larger keg?
If I was making this I would use a 3500 watt element on a 240 V circuit. If 240 v is not possible a 2000 watt on 120 V would do but the heat up time would be a little longer. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Sounds good. I will go with the 240 setup. Also my column is only 1-1/2" copper pipe 18" long. I was planning on putting copper scrubbers in it to get a little reflux. Do you think will work or should I go with a longer or larger diameter column? I have access to stainless tube and can make a larger one if needed.
For that size kettle I would really go with 2 or 3 inch column. Remember the copper scrubbers will not give you a direct reflux action since the column will balance in temp and no reflux action will take place. Your column length is fine but if possible go up to 24 inches if you can. George
Is there any advantage to using a steel element over a copper element or vice versa? I've found both and they seem to be the same price. I know people normally use copper in the column, so I was just wondering if it would make any difference in the element even though they serve 2 different purposes.
You'll have to clean the copper elements much more often as they'll tend to pickup more gunk. Stainless is the right way to go here, let the copper in your column and column packing do all the work.
Working with stainless is like distilling. As slow and as cool as possible. Stainless hardens under heat so impatience makes your job harder and harder as you go.
I can not believe that you can tread that thin of a wall to secure that element properly. It just looks too easy lol I had to weld connectors for element, thermometer and drain. Advice for people - put a 1/2" NPT on bottom of the keg for draining it out,(put valve and 90° elbow) it makes life so much easier! I've built 15.5 gal with 5500w element, takes 30 minutes to get to methanol
It can be tricky but if you are careful and tap it straight in the element will seal. It does help to flatten the side a bit. If that fails welding a coupler is an easy fix. The drain is a great idea. I got one by mistake and now see the beauty of it. George
Bobby at Brewhardware.com has some great fittings that allow you to silver solder a 1.5" tri-clamp adapter (www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm) or a 2" tri-clamp adapter (www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm) to your keg. This, in turn, can be used with a low watt density heating element with an integral tri-clamp adapter (www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element2250_tc.htm). I've modified several kegs in this fashion, and they work very well. The silver solder process is well documented, suitably strong, and easier than welding. Bobby's web site has several videos describing the process.
George, Have you used this still, I was wondering if the smaller diameter and taller height affected the run? Another question could you do a video on how you waterproof the connections on this type of element installation, describe how you ground the element to the keg? Thanks
well you could solider or weld a clean out port hole to it... or, cut a 5" x 9" hole in the side. then with another keg cut a plate that is 6" x 10" so that it can be a cover. dill a hole in the cover plate (center) and run a bolt through it. with a chunk of bar steel 6 or 7 inches center drill a hole for your cover plate. cover plate inside and bar outside screw them together and pressure holds them air tight. sand edges so you dont cut yourself and that will take care of being able to clean the inside out! might need a gasket might not. not sure if you can see were im going with this but it is a simple way to do it. www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/clemco-21549?cm_mmc=Google-_-PRODUCTFEED-_-Clemco-_-21549&gclid=Cj0KCQjwit_8BRCoARIsAIx3Rj69DH2Tn4_31SyNh0TvV4QdR7suTTx4q0USaY95_yuSZQvPFCD6rwsaAh32EALw_wcB heres a pictur of a sandblaster with a port on the side kinda like what im talking about if that helps
I want to build one of these but I'm wanting to do it a little differently , I want to cut the top of the keg out and weld in a stainless steel ring and then make a copper cap and arm for it like the all copper stills have. Only problem is I don't know how to make the cap and arm. Any suggestions ??
Never commented on a video or a channel on youtube before, but just had to say that these videos and your information has cleared up so much for me that I had to say thanks. I have never subscribed to a channel before, but yours are so full of useful information that I had to. Thanks for the videos and I hope you keep going.
Welcome aboard!
Have been using them with my reflux for years, you can also weld 2 kegs together. I run 2 15gal, one plumbed to the other with my reflux on the last keg. Also pony kegs work well as thumpers if there being used. I use natural gas myself but water heater elements do work very well and also I've seen boiler steam piped thru them as well. Great info and explanation!!
Simply amazing. You are way ahead of us and I love it.
Would like to see pictures if you get a chance. You can email them to me at george.duncan76@gmail.com
Happy Distilling
George
I was sitting here, waiting for my parts from Brewhaus to arrive wondering, "I wonder if George has a video on the heating element so I don't have to use propane. Shazzam!!!
I appreciate all your hard work.
George, great video! This Sankey keg still, do you have a video using it?
You have been an inspiration to myself and others. I appreciate all your hard work.
You’re a treasure. George... appreciated..👍😊😎
Thank you so much for replying to me. I like your channel and find it very informative. And am getting ready to use your three leg stool, all the way up in Ontario Canada. Keep them good tips commin eh
Great Video .Was looking for this one. Thanks
First time to see video...George, when cutting holes in Stainless Steel....slow way down, stainless does not cut, it chips. Slowing down will go faster and save drill bits and hole saws.
Was about to comment saying this, slow and steady, use a cutting fluid and keep everything cool. Just make sure you clean it off really well as cutting fluid isn't the best thing for your health lol.
If you go to fast it will get hot, changing the temper of your drill bit/hole saw making it wear out/break quicker while at the same time hardening the stainless, making it more difficult to drill.
I just made a 15.5 gal one. I’m thinking of making a smaller boiler for when I do spirt runs and use the 15.5 gal for stripping runs.
Hi Awesome video thanks for sharing. 😊😊😊
This was a Great Video .
Thsnk you. !!! Awesome idea
Thanks for posting great material. I saw one comment where a guy used two in series and one of them as a thumper. Maybe a video topic for the future. Thumpers!
Yes, I would like to see two in a series also! Thanks George for all your information!
I found when removing the spear out of a commercial beer keg it’s useful to drill two small holes in the stainless retaining ring and then be removed/replaced with circlip pliers at will
Very good idea,, NOW i was wondering about using a single burner hot plate with the keg sitting on top of it. I am new to all this so I have a ton of questions
Good to know George, Danke
you are an artist George
Thank you George!
Hi George
Another great video, I have a questions about the column size.
I am in the process of converting a 50L / 13 gallon keg, I was wondering what the advantage of using a 3” column is compared to the 2” column and if I was to use a 3” column would I need to cut and weld a 3” tri clamp fitting onto the keg or is it possible to use the 2” with an adapter to 3”.
Thank you
Paul
Great video! How did it work for you? Do you happen to have a parts list?
A little tip. When releasing the pressure, lay the keg on its side first to empty the dip tube. No mess on the ceiling. ;)
I wish i would have read this before i went and did just that.lol
Andy H wish I would of seen this earlier befor I covered my kitchen in beer
Just cover the valve with a towel and press down through the towel.
Love your videos,, just a hint, you really did not need to re-drill a second hole, they make SS nuts 1" and a washer with another rubber -silicone washer on the inside would have saved the extra work, but you probably need the clean out hole anyway...
What would i do if i wanted to attach a 4 inch column to the keg? Would i need to cut out the original 2" triclamp ferrule and weld on a new 4" ferrule or would a 4" to 2" reducer be satisfactory?
Do you have any leaking issues? I would assume you would need a weld less bulkhead, but then i cant figure out a way to get the other side of it screwed on the inside of the keg?
I made one from your video... it's perfect
ijust measured top of fitting it measured about 2 & 9)16 across top will the colume fit on it its a anizer bush keg
I stumbled upon this channel by mistake and am loving it
Nothing is by mistake 😉
I am straight up forward. Your explanation on thermal hydro dynamics is not entirely inaccurate. A heated fluid rising has to be replaced from the bottom with the cooler fluid, meaning that it is circulating because heated fluid rises and is replaced with a cycle of cooler fluid. This is thermal energy. It is NOT stationary as you indicated, the heated fluid is always in motion from the element upwards, creating a continuous cycle in any volume of fluid regardless where the heat originates. However, to be efficient, it needs to be lower in a given volume of a tank to become a circular event. Like you said, preferable above the very bottom to create the thermal motion. However, you are accurate in saying it should not be on the very bottom. There needs to be some space to create motion of the fluid.
Mr. Duncan hope you are doing well today. Along with everyone else.I have a 4-inch cleanout for my keg still is that necessary to put in or will be able to clean it out through the top and just a lower drain? goodday to all
Is the element you put in 115 volt or 220? Also the column you attached to it I noticed it has a condenser on it. I would just want a column to run as a pot still I don't want to use condensing water to chill the vapor... Do they make one without the condenser built into it?
Nice... thank you!
Would that element fit inside a 1/6 bbl or is it too narrow? I'm assuming that what you have is a tall 1/4 bbl.
I'm building a 2" copper column for a keg still. Can the copper ferrules be soldered onto the copper pipe instead of using stainless ferrules? I'm wanting to use the tri clamps to make my connections.
It might be a good idea to drill the drain hole at 90 degrees to the heating element. This will eliminate the possibility of interference with the heating element. Not sure if there maybe different lengths.
Very good idea.
George
Great video. What pid controller should I buy?
I had to file 3 inch diameter holes to put domestic 3kw elements in 2 steel 205 litre drums for filtering waste veg oil to run my cars on , i was there for hours and the noise it made wow.
Is it neccessary to have a 2 inch column on top or can a person put a reducer right off the keg from 2 inch to 3/4 inch ?
Do you think you could add an element like this to a cheap Chinese Still? that's what I am thinking of doing rather than messing about with an induction cooktop or any cooktop for that matter.
I was advised to drill or cut very slow on stainless. Will cut/drill much better/easier.
yup, with high torque. electric screwdriver instead of drill works nicely, with a stepped bit
Love it
Do they sell just the upper part you put on there?
Can I use a 2 inch piece of copper right off the keg the piece I have is only 6 inches tall. Then reduce it down to 3/4 inch pipe off the 6 inches.
Where are you getting the volume at I don’t see a link
hey george can one use an electric urn kettle .
WAIT!!!!! I can do an internal element on my keg still without welding??? Is it possible to do it with 120?
What did you use to seal the threads on the heating element?
can i use 2 inch brass bar rail for a column for my 15 gal keg still?? do i clean brass with 551 solution?
Could you have a fire underneath if you haven't got the drilling capabilities for the heating element
How you been old man good to see your still at it
Been celebrating the holidays with family at home.
Happy new year
Wondering if your way of just drilling a hole to screw in the heater element will hold up when the keg is heated to boiling. Seems likely to leak when heated if not completely blow out.
I think welding a female adapter for the heating element. Plus regulator switch. Awesome build any how.
So it should run the same then?
Great video as always George!!
What gauge cord do you use to connect the heating element?
Normally a 14 AWG but if I use a larger element I use 12 AWG.
George
Anyone...there are different connections on the keg, What connection type fit best? Thanks
I just found this channel, and it's a subject I love.. Where do I find the video on wiring the Heating element
Go to our playlists
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing I was unable to determine which one it is..
Need to do a video on how to wire up the elements
If its 120v one terminal is line, other is neutral. If its 220v two hots and two terminals.
How do you clean it out?
When drilling SS ,,slow lots of oil and pressure.
The carbide cutter will run for years. If used properly.
George where do you put the hole for pod temp probe
lol
Another great vid and ....sound !!!!!
Thanks. I think I got the sound adjusted right this time.
George
How do you regulate the temp with that element
15 gal beer keg 2ft head them 15 ft of 1/2 inch worm in a barrel with cold water running after 1gal it just puts out water so what am I doing wrong please help
My question might be dumb, but figured I would ask anyway.. what is the benefit of using a heating element vs one of those propane heaters that are used for the turkey deep fryer pots?
Ease of transport and basement operation fire hazard. I cant remember if propane gives off CO gas but that could be an issue too.
George can you do a video on making Rice Vodka ? Thanks again George .
This shit sounds like do not legal but it’s badass. If ever I need to distill water for the apocalypse, bingo
How do ground the electric with the screw-in heating elements? Are you connecting the ground wire to the still Base?
Current travels through the heating element, so plugging into a ground fault interrupter should do.
How do you load mash into the keg??
What type of clamp are you using to hold the column to the keg? Tri clamp?
yes
How do you clean it after use?
George, What type gasket did you use between the keg and the column? I have a 2 inch by 26 inch tri-clover stainless pipe. Do I use a tri-clover gasket, o-ring, or flat gasket? Also, What size heating element would you recommend for a 13.2 gallon keg IF you were hypothetically going to make a water still
I used the gasket that comes with the column.
I would (hypothetically) use a 3500 watt element wired for 240V. If that is not possible and you only have 120 Volts the 2000 watt element will work but heat up time will be a little longer.
George
Since I do not have an official column, is it a tri-clover (rib around center) or flat?
Use a flat one. That seems to be the universal solution.
George
I'm in the process of building my still worth a 15 gallon keg. I was planning on using a propane burner for heat but watching your videos have changed my mind. What size heating element would you recommend for a larger keg?
If I was making this I would use a 3500 watt element on a 240 V circuit. If 240 v is not possible a 2000 watt on 120 V would do but the heat up time would be a little longer.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Sounds good. I will go with the 240 setup. Also my column is only 1-1/2" copper pipe 18" long. I was planning on putting copper scrubbers in it to get a little reflux. Do you think will work or should I go with a longer or larger diameter column? I have access to stainless tube and can make a larger one if needed.
For that size kettle I would really go with 2 or 3 inch column. Remember the copper scrubbers will not give you a direct reflux action since the column will balance in temp and no reflux action will take place.
Your column length is fine but if possible go up to 24 inches if you can.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks for the info. Love the videos, very informational and easy to understand. Keep up the great work.
How long of a column is correct if you're using the 2" pipe? Would it be different it if was 3"?
A column should be 18-48 inches depending on your designed purpose. Both 2 and 3 inch are the same.
Is there any advantage to using a steel element over a copper element or vice versa? I've found both and they seem to be the same price. I know people normally use copper in the column, so I was just wondering if it would make any difference in the element even though they serve 2 different purposes.
You'll have to clean the copper elements much more often as they'll tend to pickup more gunk. Stainless is the right way to go here, let the copper in your column and column packing do all the work.
Absolutely correct.
Thanks
George
Where did you find your 1-1/2 in. tap and die to make the threading for the heating element?
Harbor Freight
Stainless is hard to drill, little fluid to cool it off goes a long way.
Working with stainless is like distilling. As slow and as cool as possible. Stainless hardens under heat so impatience makes your job harder and harder as you go.
This barrel is made of stainless steel. What caliber, please?
What is the easiest set up pid to get ?
My keg still holds 10 gal of mash. If I want to make a small batch "should l" put less and will it function the same as a full pot?
Yes. There is no reason to fill it completely.
George
What type of silicon gasket is that? I need one that is flat on 1 side and ringd on the other.
It is a heat resistant gasket. I believe you can find them on Amazon
I can not believe that you can tread that thin of a wall to secure that element properly. It just looks too easy lol
I had to weld connectors for element, thermometer and drain.
Advice for people - put a 1/2" NPT on bottom of the keg for draining it out,(put valve and 90° elbow) it makes life so much easier!
I've built 15.5 gal with 5500w element, takes 30 minutes to get to methanol
It can be tricky but if you are careful and tap it straight in the element will seal. It does help to flatten the side a bit. If that fails welding a coupler is an easy fix.
The drain is a great idea. I got one by mistake and now see the beauty of it.
George
Bobby at Brewhardware.com has some great fittings that allow you to silver solder a 1.5"
tri-clamp adapter (www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm) or a 2" tri-clamp adapter (www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc2rsf.htm) to your keg. This, in turn, can be used with a low watt density heating element with an integral tri-clamp adapter (www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element2250_tc.htm).
I've modified several kegs in this fashion, and they work very well. The silver solder process is well documented, suitably strong, and easier than welding.
Bobby's web site has several videos describing the process.
Thanks for the info and links. I'll get to reviewing this tonight.
George
George,
Have you used this still, I was wondering if the smaller diameter and taller height affected the run?
Another question could you do a video on how you waterproof the connections on this type of element installation, describe how you ground the element to the keg?
Thanks
What brand of column and condenser do you recommend? Or can you make a column and condenser from hardware store supplies?
You can totally make your own. I would go to a well stocked plumbing supply store. Some of the fittings aren't very common
@@punkenough4u you can buy everything you need offline and I mean everything
Great video.
Where did you get the 2000watt heating element....?(price)
Thanks
I bought this at Lowes for around $9. They are available for $9-$13 or so.
George
A flip flop water heater 😀 add the correct thermostatic controls ⚡🔥
Looks amazing, just wondering how you'd clean out something like that?
Oliver Whitaker use a carboy brush.
Pressure washer? 😂
well you could solider or weld a clean out port hole to it... or, cut a 5" x 9" hole in the side. then with another keg cut a plate that is 6" x 10" so that it can be a cover. dill a hole in the cover plate (center) and run a bolt through it. with a chunk of bar steel 6 or 7 inches center drill a hole for your cover plate. cover plate inside and bar outside screw them together and pressure holds them air tight. sand edges so you dont cut yourself and that will take care of being able to clean the inside out! might need a gasket might not. not sure if you can see were im going with this but it is a simple way to do it. www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/clemco-21549?cm_mmc=Google-_-PRODUCTFEED-_-Clemco-_-21549&gclid=Cj0KCQjwit_8BRCoARIsAIx3Rj69DH2Tn4_31SyNh0TvV4QdR7suTTx4q0USaY95_yuSZQvPFCD6rwsaAh32EALw_wcB heres a pictur of a sandblaster with a port on the side kinda like what im talking about if that helps
Was there a certain pid u use
Doesn't seem like the keg wall is thick enough to thread into. I would weld a female couple or use a bulkhead type fitting on back side.
George what heater element would you recommend for 15.5 gal keg?
I would use a 2000 watt element if using 120V and 3500 if using 240 volts.
Both would be fine
George
thank you/ merci for the quick response!
So are they already clanced maybr a vinger run
That was way easier than I expected. How can you test to see if the keg is AL or Stainless?
Most are. They may have a galvanized outer coating but the inside is almost always stainless steel.
Put a magnet to it
Neither stainless or aluminum are magnetic.
as it only has 2 small holes column and drain. how do you clean the pot properly?
Like all stills, after use immediately rinse it out (unless it is copper) and that will keep it clean.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Why did you say, "unless it is copper" ?
What is the best way to clean the keg and collum after use?
Warm soapy water.
On this keg still where would you install the probe for the PID?
At the point where the vapor leaves your column.
I want to build one of these but I'm wanting to do it a little differently , I want to cut the top of the keg out and weld in a stainless steel ring and then make a copper cap and arm for it like the all copper stills have. Only problem is I don't know how to make the cap and arm. Any suggestions ??
Sorry. Haven't made of of those yet
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing ok got one other question, can the heat element be installed in the bottom sticking straight up instead of in the side?
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing ok got one other question, can the heat element be installed in the bottom sticking straight up instead of in the side?
I guess it could but there would need to be some sort of stand off on the bottom since part of the element will be sticking out.
George
Why not remove the ball, and use that whole tube as the column
Is there a reflux tower that fits a 2.5" flange?
Not that I am aware of.
George
Nice work George 👍
However once you've finished making the still, is it still "The Property of Spoetzl Brewery in Shiner Texas"? 😉
LAMO! Ha, you got me..... I do believe that possession is 9/10s of the law here.
Very astute my friend.
George
Barley and Hops Brewing
Your not wrong mate 👍
I wouldn't be giving up my still either.
Cheers
Pete
Sweet. We see this eye to eye.
G'day mate
George
Barley and Hops Brewing
Yeah Nah!
Your all good George. I was just pulling your leg.
Love your vids, keep them coming.
Cheers
Pete
Figured as much when I felt the tug (smile).
Enjoyed it all
George
Tell me if you please how you control the heating element ?
I use a PID controller
Is the keg you used an aluminum or stainless steel?
Stainless steel
Is there a video of George using this?