Without sounding like a smartass, I would have fitted the tap and element tri-clover fitting before fitting the top tri-clover... I would have also deburred the inside of the holes I had cut in the keg..... But hey!... That's a pretty nice kit.....Is it available in New Zealand?
I always welcome feedback as it helps make a better product or lets me know I'm doing something right. Yes, I do ship to New Zealand. You will just need to email me for a shipping quote as the last plugin update done on the website broke the international shipping calculator.
The element selection would be based on what power you have available to you. For instance in Australia our power supply is 240V and our standard power outlets are rated at 10 Amp. Using the electrical formula derived from Ohms law of P = V x I where P is Watts, V is Volts and I is current, the maximum wattage element you can run is 2400Watts. When it comes to mounting the element you simply clamp the element in place on the port via a Tri Clamp. The type of element you need is a 2 inch Tri Clamp mount and can be seen here moonshinestillproject.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Element-400x400-1.png
Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback. I'm looking to offer a much larger drain in the future as ongoing product improvement. All the components for the boiler can be found here. moonshinestillproject.com/product-category/convert-a-keg/ You can also find still building components in the store as well.
Great idea alternative to welding, but overpriced for what you get. Why isn't there at least a 1500 or 2000w heating element included? Or an optional 2nd heating element porthole?
The majority of these kits are sold to the US and shipped from Australia via Australia Post Economy Air. The cut-off weight for Economy Air is 2kg and the kit weighs a fraction under that. If I was to add an element or another element port to the kit it would go over the 2kg limit and make it cost prohibitive to send to the US. I'm always interested in peoples opinions and welcome your input on the price of the kit. What would you consider a fair price for the kit?
@@moonshinestill5972I would suggest a "build your own kit option," where the buyer can purchase only the items that best suits his needs. I don't need a heating element option, but I like the legs the drain, and the large top opening. And yes, a 6" opening would be even better!!
@moonshinestill5972 It's a good thing to get feedback, but the feedback you want is from actual customers (you could do a post purchase email). You can never produce a product cheap enough to satisfy broke jokers who are never going to buy from you like the guy above. If anything, your product is underpriced. I bet you could raise your price 20% and notice no drop on sales. 1/4 of a sale is shipping. Maybe see if you can partner with a US distributor and market it as a keggle accessory rather than still. I found you looking for a way to run my 3 keg brewtus without the stand.
Hi there, I was wondering how much pressure this would hold. I am looking to add a couple of posts to a tri clamp blank and make a kegmenter for fermenting under pressure and closed transfers. I primarily make beer.
I have used this to pressure ferment beer as well. I usually ferment at 5 PSI and there is no problem at that pressure. I believe you could go higher given that there are 8 evenly spaced bolts securing the 4 inch tri clover ferrule in place however I haven't tested it as I don't need to go any higher than 5 PSI.
The tap in the side of the keg was chosen as it allows for both electric and gas heating. Also, there was no easy "No Weld" option to add a bottom drain. Since releasing this video I have developed a "No Weld" option to put the drain in the bottom of the keg. You can find out more about this product here. moonshinestillproject.com/product/keg-flip-drain/
At the time of posting this video I didn't have an option to do that. I have now created a product specifically for this and you can find it here. moonshinestillproject.com/product/keg-flip-drain/
What part of the kit are you thinking may leak? There are hundreds of these kits out there now with no reported leaks but I'm open to suggestions on where the kit may need improvement. Happy to chat with you so please email me at info@moonshinestillproject.com
@@KimVonKonk Thanks for your reply. The seal for the drain tap is in the body of the tap where it sits against the outside of the keg. It's an "O" ring style seal and is 100% silicone. Unfortunately it isn't clear in the video that there is a seal on the tap.
without sounding like a smarty, never drill with gloves on, and don't take off the grinder guard, i would mention: the more you work stainless the harder it gets, so drill the holes without stopping half way thru. we used to build a dam with bluetack and put lube in it.
@gadsdenconsulting7126 Most beer kegs are made from 304 or 316 stainless steel which is Austenitic, I just looked that up, I can tell you from experience both of those work hard and really bad. It can make a difference, especially if you are using tools you bought at your local home improvement store. I work in a machine shop and have tools just for stainless steel.
@@Kapt.Krunch Thank you for the information! I figured the Harbor Freight step bit will be good for maybe one keg, or one hole in said keg😕 Their drill bits are near worthless.
Without sounding like a smartass, I would have fitted the tap and element tri-clover fitting before fitting the top tri-clover... I would have also deburred the inside of the holes I had cut in the keg..... But hey!... That's a pretty nice kit.....Is it available in New Zealand?
I always welcome feedback as it helps make a better product or lets me know I'm doing something right. Yes, I do ship to New Zealand. You will just need to email me for a shipping quote as the last plugin update done on the website broke the international shipping calculator.
What heating element would you use and it would have been good to see how you fit one (just for us DYI knuckle heads) 😊😊👍👍
The element selection would be based on what power you have available to you. For instance in Australia our power supply is 240V and our standard power outlets are rated at 10 Amp. Using the electrical formula derived from Ohms law of P = V x I where P is Watts, V is Volts and I is current, the maximum wattage element you can run is 2400Watts.
When it comes to mounting the element you simply clamp the element in place on the port via a Tri Clamp. The type of element you need is a 2 inch Tri Clamp mount and can be seen here moonshinestillproject.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/Element-400x400-1.png
@@moonshinestill5972 Thank you I am in Australia, Churchill 3842, look forward to doing business with you
Love the idea by the way
Thanks, appreciate the feedback.
Very cool. The only thing I’d change would be the size of the drain.
Where did you get all those other still components?
Thanks for the video.
Thanks for taking the time to give your feedback. I'm looking to offer a much larger drain in the future as ongoing product improvement. All the components for the boiler can be found here. moonshinestillproject.com/product-category/convert-a-keg/ You can also find still building components in the store as well.
Great video
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.
Great idea alternative to welding, but overpriced for what you get. Why isn't there at least a 1500 or 2000w heating element included? Or an optional 2nd heating element porthole?
The majority of these kits are sold to the US and shipped from Australia via Australia Post Economy Air. The cut-off weight for Economy Air is 2kg and the kit weighs a fraction under that. If I was to add an element or another element port to the kit it would go over the 2kg limit and make it cost prohibitive to send to the US. I'm always interested in peoples opinions and welcome your input on the price of the kit. What would you consider a fair price for the kit?
@@moonshinestill5972 make a second kit option to get rid of the legs and add the second element port hole,
@@moonshinestill5972I would suggest a "build your own kit option," where the buyer can purchase only the items that best suits his needs. I don't need a heating element option, but I like the legs the drain, and the large top opening. And yes, a 6" opening would be even better!!
@moonshinestill5972 It's a good thing to get feedback, but the feedback you want is from actual customers (you could do a post purchase email). You can never produce a product cheap enough to satisfy broke jokers who are never going to buy from you like the guy above.
If anything, your product is underpriced. I bet you could raise your price 20% and notice no drop on sales. 1/4 of a sale is shipping. Maybe see if you can partner with a US distributor and market it as a keggle accessory rather than still. I found you looking for a way to run my 3 keg brewtus without the stand.
Hi there, I was wondering how much pressure this would hold. I am looking to add a couple of posts to a tri clamp blank and make a kegmenter for fermenting under pressure and closed transfers. I primarily make beer.
I have used this to pressure ferment beer as well. I usually ferment at 5 PSI and there is no problem at that pressure. I believe you could go higher given that there are 8 evenly spaced bolts securing the 4 inch tri clover ferrule in place however I haven't tested it as I don't need to go any higher than 5 PSI.
@@moonshinestill5972 awesome thanks forgotten feedback
Do you have one for bigger arms
I am working on one for 6 inch Tri Clamp so keep a look out on my website.
if you are using a heating element why not put the drain port in the center if the bottom
The tap in the side of the keg was chosen as it allows for both electric and gas heating. Also, there was no easy "No Weld" option to add a bottom drain. Since releasing this video I have developed a "No Weld" option to put the drain in the bottom of the keg. You can find out more about this product here. moonshinestillproject.com/product/keg-flip-drain/
At the time of posting this video I didn't have an option to do that. I have now created a product specifically for this and you can find it here. moonshinestillproject.com/product/keg-flip-drain/
😊❤👍
Thanks, I really appreciate you taking the time to give me the feedback.
I'm a little concerned about leaks..hmm 🤔
What part of the kit are you thinking may leak? There are hundreds of these kits out there now with no reported leaks but I'm open to suggestions on where the kit may need improvement. Happy to chat with you so please email me at info@moonshinestillproject.com
The drain tap? No gaskets?
@@KimVonKonk Thanks for your reply. The seal for the drain tap is in the body of the tap where it sits against the outside of the keg. It's an "O" ring style seal and is 100% silicone. Unfortunately it isn't clear in the video that there is a seal on the tap.
@@moonshinestill5972I was going to post and ask the same question!! Thank you for the clarification!!!
without sounding like a smarty, never drill with gloves on, and don't take off the grinder guard, i would mention: the more you work stainless the harder it gets, so drill the holes without stopping half way thru. we used to build a dam with bluetack and put lube in it.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. I will take this on board and make sure I incorporate these suggestions into the next video.
The work hardening depends on whether it is Austenitic, Martensitic, or Duplex stainless steel.
@@Kapt.Krunchwhich of these types are beer kegs made of, and how will that affect the work hardening, if at all???
@gadsdenconsulting7126 Most beer kegs are made from 304 or 316 stainless steel which is Austenitic, I just looked that up, I can tell you from experience both of those work hard and really bad. It can make a difference, especially if you are using tools you bought at your local home improvement store. I work in a machine shop and have tools just for stainless steel.
@@Kapt.Krunch Thank you for the information! I figured the Harbor Freight step bit will be good for maybe one keg, or one hole in said keg😕 Their drill bits are near worthless.