Thanks Paul. You are a born educator and a vital source of knowledge and inspiration. You have expertly employed a 21st century technology ( social media) to deliver lessons on traditional artisan topics! You’re a clever man!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have had a Stanley router plane for about 35-40 years and have not been able to sharpen it the way I wanted to until now. I am a 77 year old woodworker. I use mostly hand tools the way I was taught by my great-grandfather, and my grand-father. I love using hand tools, but I have to admit that the older I great the more power I use. This video has helped tremendously, and I thank you again. Keep them coming.
Thank you Paul, This is the most detailed explanation on sharpening router plane blades I have seen or read. It answers a number of questions I had when sharpening mine whether or not I was doing it correctly. There are several changes of yours I need to add to get that parallel cut which was an issue at times. Your explanation is spot on clear as usual. Cheers. Michael O. Alabama, USA
Hi Paul I have just found a no 71 Stanley router plane for £20 at a car boot sale ans I’ve just watched you’re piece on sharpening the blade. I’ve just discovered the fact that the tool post is the correct height to sharpen the blade, by turning it over with the cutting edge down on a diamond stone or ( India stone ) this only requires a few strokes to give you the correct angle and sharpen the blade quickly. I just wonder why you don’t mention this method as it seems it’s why this what it’s designed for. Love your stuff by the way you are an absolutely a master woodworker, great stuff.
Mr. Sellers, I must say this was a most fortunate, albeit serendipitous find. I, as many of your other fans apparently have, turned [or turned back] to the greater use of hand tools to scratch my woodworking itch. And, of course, while never truly satisfied, scratch also our "Need" to acquire new (at least to us) tools. Finding this video dovetailed (No Pun-Intended) perfectly with my recent acquisition of a new router plane from Rockler. It seemed well made and, except for some excessive polishing compound left in the iron's adjustment slot making it initially almost impossible to remove, it is. The iron's cutting edge had unfortunately been subjected to some metal tool (I suspect a file) as there were very small, evenly spaced nicks along the cutting edge. It also started cutting along the right front edge instead of evenly along the entire cutting edge. Not knowing exactly how much was burr and how much, if any was caused by misalignment, I first placed the bottom of the blade flat on an oilstone and with even pressure dragged it backwards only on the stone just a few strokes at a time. When I saw the nicks start to disappear I did the same thing with the top flat of the iron. Finally, I turned to the micro-bevel a few strokes at a time and now, without having to either file the blade, or tape the bottom of the plane to it make the iron dead-flat with the sole, I have a router plane that does exactly what I bought it for, evenly leveling and flattening the bottoms of dados, hinge recesses and et cetera. Thank you for your timely, clear, succinct, direct, informative and complete ("compleat" on your side of the pond) instructions.
Just got a router plane from a local sale, this video got the blade corrected to be parallel to the sole. I did have to file the sole first to get it flat. It was convex. I clamped a file down to my bench and push the router over it, holding pressure in the middle to not rock it and make it worse. That flattened it and I finished with sand paper on a flat stone. I think we rely on sand paper to flatten plane soles too much but the file is much quicker, still a lot of work. But more effective and doesn't dull the file. My file is second hand and still worked wonders. All set now. Another tool ready to use, love it, thanks Paul. I am surprised I haven't seen more file usage in plane sole restores.
Wow thanks for this tutorial! I’ve had an old Stanley 71 for years but have never actually used it. This past weekend I had a small project and gave it a go only to discover that the 71’s blade was dull and out of alignment. It also had chips, a broken corner, and an uneven edge. I used my DMT diamond stones to grind both the bevel and the bottom flat, and to fix the chips and broken corner. This took hours but I eventually apexed the edge with a razor-sharp finish. But that edge was still out of parallel with the plane sole. I taped up the bottom of the plane and ran the blade across the fine DMT stone, as shown in the video. I kept rubbing and lowering the blade until I had a shiny triangle from the high corner of the blade edge to the low side, which was about 2mm+ down from the cutting edge. I had a lot more steel to grind away! Before grinding, though, I removed the tape and tried the plane out -- and it was perfect (of course). It took me a while to understand this, but that little triangle on the bottom of the blade was perfectly parallel to the sole of the plane. I needed to grind down the rest of the blade bottom to match the plane of this little triangle, which is exactly what happens in the video by putting pressure on the low side while grinding. I could have skipped that last step and used the blade as-is (since the cutting edge was now perfectly parallel with the plane sole), but I wanted to grind down the rest of the blade bottom to make future maintenance easy. Hours later, the blade was perfect. I took extra efforts to first minimize and then remove the burr so that it will stay sharp longer. It now cuts like a dream. Thanks again! And special thanks for noting that I’d only have to do this once - I wouldn’t have invested the time otherwise!
This fine video takes me back well over a century ago when English and other European craftsmen found themselves in the mountain deserts of Utah (USA) trying to survive a forced exile from greener places as farmers. Nevertheless, they had their skills and their tools for making beautiful decorations from wood. Four holy temples were concurrently being built here to honor their God and Savior. Their loving craftsmanship in stone and wood still astound me today. Paul Sellers helps me understand why I feel the way I do in those most sacred places. What an esthetic treat!
I'm half way through making your workbench Paul and bought myself a Stanly No.71. This video couldn't be more timely. It's fast becoming my favourite tool, such a pleasure to use. And now with this video I can set it up perfectly. Thank you.
I've been trying to deal with this exact problem on my router plane iron for years. I have never been able to get it right but this video has given me a better understanding of what I was not doing right. Thanks!
Aloha and Mahalo Paul for this and all your videos. Perfect timing on this one. I just got my Hand router plane last week and I am getting ready to use it. My first project with it is to make a sharpening stone set up just like yours.
Thank you for all of our sharpening videos. They have made a great difference in reducing my stress level when using my planes and chisels. Now with this video it is time to get a router plane and move away from my noisy power router. Have a good week.
Paul, I am late to this video. However, I am recently in receipt of a vintage Stanley 71. This video helped me get it dialed in and I just love it. Thanks. From Ohio USA
At 76 years of age, I am not into buying more tools. Recently took you advice and made a poor man's router using a 2x4 block and a 1/4 inch chisel. Did a great job routing 1/2 inch deep rebates.
Those work and get a job done, but the ready-made vintage Stanley is awfully nice, no matter your age. I try to never buy a new tool, but refurbish-as needed the vintage tools I keep saving from the scrap heap. But I'm only 52 and have a lot of chips to make!
Finally! Someone actually explained the way and reason for the shape of the blade. I have two older router planes I purchased and have yet to do the proper restoration of the blades because I didn't understand what was needed. Thank you, Paul for explaining all of the things meant to be in that plane's angles and blades.
Very informative video. Some great insights into how router planes work, and how they don't. It's never occurred to me that the angle of the iron was necessary for it to work; I always assumed the heel was lifted like that because it saved material. It makes sense, though, because otherwise it'd just be sort of skidding along the surface. If I could offer some unsolicited advice: It can be hard to tell what shaping has been done to small, shiny metal surfaces. Metalworking types often use a bright blue dye on the surface to make it easier to see. It's far easier to tell what's happening on video, and I'm told it often helps a lot in person, too. There are dedicated products for the purpose, like Dicum, or you can just use a large blue Sharpie. You guys continue to do a really amazing job with the videography, and I was able to follow along with the video. It's just a suggestion that might help further improve the clarity. Edited: formatting.
Love my router planes. Have two that have come in so handy and are so much faster than pulling out the electric router for many small and large tasks. Thanks for the tutorial. It will prove to be useful when it comes time to resharpen the blades.
Well done Paul. Always wanted a router plane and gratefully received a very rusty Record from a good friend of mine. Busy using electrolysis to "back plate" the rust of the sole now. your sharpening advice is very clear. Thank you
Paul, I have owned a router plane more than 30 years but you have just taught me something, I just thought they were were naturally roughing out for fine chisel work!
Excellent video! So professional that there is absolutely no need to edit any of the shots. Amazing really. This is how all video tutorials should be shot. Congratulations
Still looking for my first router, can't seem to find one anywhere around where I live. New tools are definitely not in my budget. You may see a few new power tools here and there, on my channel, but those were gifts. Matter of fact, I don't think I've gotten into my shop for quite a few months now. I gotta get back out there. My metal surfaces are likely getting some rust on them. Our humidity levels around here tend to affect even through oil and/or wax coatings.
What is the best router for a beginner with a very very low budget? Im over the moon with my £15 No4 plane. Thanks to you. 😊 kind regards Cindy Harrison an old grandmother learning and having fun
Thanks Paul. Fantastic explanation. Just done the half inch blade on my recently purchased old No71. Now cuts nice and square. I only varied from you on the bevelled edge, which I omitted a secondary bevel. I may add one later. Cuts nice and in plane with the sole now.
Great video thank paul. Inerestingly I tried to file the plane iron and the file just glided off. Was too hard for it. It is the newer version albeit still quite old. they may have changed the hardening? I have spent so far about 2 hours on it and still not quite there.... Definitely a lot harder
Help! Many thanks for your latest video on the router plane which is the point of my question. I have acquired a Stanley No. 71. Only the casting, no hardware. I had a friend turn the knobs for me so I’m on my way to restoration. I’m stumped, as well as 3 hardware stores, as to the threads on the threaded post and the threaded holes for the screws to secure the knobs. Can you help me? I have the equipment and know how to fabricate all the hardware but before I go further I want to make sure I can get the threaded bits. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks Paul. I think I've read everything you've written on this without good results. This now becomes clear. Look forward to a sharp router plane...finally!
Hello from Norway 🇳🇴 I love videos like this. Detailed and to the point. It’s really helpful for us who are just starting out. Looking forward to seeing more about speciality planes/tools. Thanks for this information:)
thank you Paul. I love all your teachings..... thank you for sharing them. I recently found a Stanley #71 router plane at an antique mall. as well as a hand forged mortis chisel, cant wait to try them out. My question is, the router plane has a blade that is not square across, it is pointed. it has two bevels on the top. do you initialize it the same way? is this common? any feedback would be appreciated as I am learning and loving hand woodworking. wishing you all the best from the United States.
Thank you very much for yet another superb video, detailed, precise, thoroughly English, no wasted words, no nuisance background music, no one trying to be a comedian, no slovenly American jargon, superbly videoed. Without a doubt the most excellent woodworking videos. No disrespect to Rob Cosman or Stumpy Nubs who are also outstanding and generous spirited in sharing knowledge and experience. Read your explanation in Essential Woodworking Hand Tools, possibly one of the finest books of its type available, but couldn’t quite understand it properly but this video made it abundantly clear. I love the detail, precision and thoroughness. Heartfelt thanks
Very helpful. My router had no blade and this will help me make a new one out of square tool steel stock. So even if my bend isn't forged perfectly to the ideal degree it will work. Thanks Uncle Paul.
RH Hutchins, Thank you, I know. Bit of a problem here in South Africa, heavily taxed, iffy delivery, long time till that delivery. And I will enjoy the making, knowing that with Uncle Pauls help I will have a working router.
Will have to give those instructions a go! I purchased a Stanley 71 1/2 not too long ago and was wondering about a better way of approaching sharpening the tool!
Paul, You are way beyond my knowledge and experience but I thought I would mention something I was taught in college metal working class. In order to flatten metal, as in this instance, it is better (once you are close by the way you did fast removal) to turn and stand at the end of the table, place both thumbs on top of the file with fingers on the bottom spaced a comfortable distance apart. Place file on metal and with slight pressure push across the metal. Watch the marks the file makes and adjust if necessary to flatten the metal. Respectfully submitted, Kevin
Thank you, thank you, and thank you. Been afraid to touch mine until I saw a more proper way to sharpen one. Mine is starting to get dull and needs sharpened. Again, many thank you's. Cheers :)
Hi master Paul Me again 😀 I've finally managed to get a Stanley 71 lovely tool and in the box all shiny and sound. Little problem thought the cutter adjuster nut is missing. Gutted paid over 100 quid for it. Any advice, replacement? A M6 knurled thumb bolt would do the trick? I blame you for buying one ...😀😀 just kidding. You inspired me so much and the little projects have done and will do are thanks to you. Take care sir.
That’s great Paul - something I certainly wouldn’t have thought of. To extend this idea, you could maybe use a kind of “ruler trick” by taping one to the front area of the sole of the router plane, to match the pitch angle of the blade sole, then do the whole thing as one to level the blade bottom with the sole. You’d bevel the back edge of the plane sole a bit but I wouldn’t mind that.
What is the cutting fluid used on your diamond plates in that black spray bottle? Great video by the way I always enjoy watching an old pro doing what they do best!
Add me to the list of those who would like to see your explanation of how to make shellac solutions of various # cuts. In the states I know of only one source for shellac and that is the Zinsser Bulls Eye brand but I'm yet to find its 'weight.' I have some flakes that I'd like to mix but I'd like to have benefit of your knowledge, Paul, before doing so. I bought Hake brushes in anticipation. As ever, thank you for all you have done and continue to do for us. I've been laid up for about 6 weeks and have been binge watching your TH-cam tutorials and those videos I've downloaded from Woodworking Master Classes. It has made the inactivity almost bearable.
Sir, what is the "narrow band of light" @15:16? A tiny bevel? Also, isn't the action of this blade the same as when you jab with your chisel to establish the bottom of a dado or rabbet?
I would think of this action more as raking than jabbing. A road grader rather than a backhoe. Hmm, a road grader might be more analogous to a plane, or better, a scraping plane, while a backhoe can sink its teeth down below grade. And a backhoe doesn't work by moving along. Drat, maybe I simply should lay off the landscaping comparisons.
Is micro bevel necessary? if so, what's the bevel angle, 25? 30 degress? I have a veritas router, which has detachable blade. Thank you By the way, I am selling my table and chop saws, and transitioning to hand saws. Thanks to you!!
It struck me as I got to the end of the video that what I just witnessed was a master showing the apprentice - me - how to maintain the tool that would likely become the heart of my work. Obvious? Yes of course. But if you were an apprentice, how long would it take before you completely understood what was being said, its importance and then understanding how to maintain and sharpen the cutting iron? It was a 20 minute investment in time that was well worth spending,
what if the cutter does not mate to the sole at 90 degrees? my cutter edge is square to its own shaft, but my one stanley router seems like the V notch in the body that the cutter sits in is not perfect and the cutter angles to the side slightly. I never thought it was worth grinding my cutter out and just use the plane slightly skewed.
Sure it is not wear on the router base? You could add a hard wood base and square the base to the post? I have a router that is worn to a slope toe to heel that need this done.
Thanks Paul. You are a born educator and a vital source of knowledge and inspiration. You have expertly employed a 21st century technology ( social media) to deliver lessons on traditional artisan topics!
You’re a clever man!
I just got an old Stanley no 71. My first router ❤ Definitely not something I can live without ever again.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. I have had a Stanley router plane for about 35-40 years and have not been able to sharpen it the way I wanted to until now. I am a 77 year old woodworker. I use mostly hand tools the way I was taught by my great-grandfather, and my grand-father. I love using hand tools, but I have to admit that the older I great the more power I use. This video has helped tremendously, and I thank you again. Keep them coming.
That's why we love Paul: simple answers and well explained and demonstrated.
No one teaches like you Paul. I appreciate it.
Thank you Paul, This is the most detailed explanation on sharpening router plane blades I have seen or read. It answers a number of questions I had when sharpening mine whether or not I was doing it correctly. There are several changes of yours I need to add to get that parallel cut which was an issue at times. Your explanation is spot on clear as usual.
Cheers.
Michael O.
Alabama, USA
Hi Paul I have just found a no 71 Stanley router plane for £20 at a car boot sale ans I’ve just watched you’re piece on sharpening the blade. I’ve just discovered the fact that the tool post is the correct height to sharpen the blade, by turning it over with the cutting edge down on a diamond stone or ( India stone ) this only requires a few strokes to give you the correct angle and sharpen the blade quickly. I just wonder why you don’t mention this method as it seems it’s why this what it’s designed for. Love your stuff by the way you are an absolutely a master woodworker, great stuff.
Mr. Sellers,
I must say this was a most fortunate, albeit serendipitous find. I, as many of your other fans apparently have, turned [or turned back] to the greater use of hand tools to scratch my woodworking itch. And, of course, while never truly satisfied, scratch also our "Need" to acquire new (at least to us) tools. Finding this video dovetailed (No Pun-Intended) perfectly with my recent acquisition of a new router plane from Rockler. It seemed well made and, except for some excessive polishing compound left in the iron's adjustment slot making it initially almost impossible to remove, it is. The iron's cutting edge had unfortunately been subjected to some metal tool (I suspect a file) as there were very small, evenly spaced nicks along the cutting edge. It also started cutting along the right front edge instead of evenly along the entire cutting edge. Not knowing exactly how much was burr and how much, if any was caused by misalignment, I first placed the bottom of the blade flat on an oilstone and with even pressure dragged it backwards only on the stone just a few strokes at a time. When I saw the nicks start to disappear I did the same thing with the top flat of the iron. Finally, I turned to the micro-bevel a few strokes at a time and now, without having to either file the blade, or tape the bottom of the plane to it make the iron dead-flat with the sole, I have a router plane that does exactly what I bought it for, evenly leveling and flattening the bottoms of dados, hinge recesses and et cetera. Thank you for your timely, clear, succinct, direct, informative and complete ("compleat" on your side of the pond) instructions.
Excellent. You are indeed a national treasure.
Just got a router plane from a local sale, this video got the blade corrected to be parallel to the sole. I did have to file the sole first to get it flat. It was convex. I clamped a file down to my bench and push the router over it, holding pressure in the middle to not rock it and make it worse. That flattened it and I finished with sand paper on a flat stone. I think we rely on sand paper to flatten plane soles too much but the file is much quicker, still a lot of work. But more effective and doesn't dull the file. My file is second hand and still worked wonders. All set now. Another tool ready to use, love it, thanks Paul. I am surprised I haven't seen more file usage in plane sole restores.
Wow thanks for this tutorial! I’ve had an old Stanley 71 for years but have never actually used it. This past weekend I had a small project and gave it a go only to discover that the 71’s blade was dull and out of alignment. It also had chips, a broken corner, and an uneven edge.
I used my DMT diamond stones to grind both the bevel and the bottom flat, and to fix the chips and broken corner. This took hours but I eventually apexed the edge with a razor-sharp finish.
But that edge was still out of parallel with the plane sole. I taped up the bottom of the plane and ran the blade across the fine DMT stone, as shown in the video. I kept rubbing and lowering the blade until I had a shiny triangle from the high corner of the blade edge to the low side, which was about 2mm+ down from the cutting edge. I had a lot more steel to grind away!
Before grinding, though, I removed the tape and tried the plane out -- and it was perfect (of course). It took me a while to understand this, but that little triangle on the bottom of the blade was perfectly parallel to the sole of the plane. I needed to grind down the rest of the blade bottom to match the plane of this little triangle, which is exactly what happens in the video by putting pressure on the low side while grinding.
I could have skipped that last step and used the blade as-is (since the cutting edge was now perfectly parallel with the plane sole), but I wanted to grind down the rest of the blade bottom to make future maintenance easy.
Hours later, the blade was perfect. I took extra efforts to first minimize and then remove the burr so that it will stay sharp longer. It now cuts like a dream.
Thanks again! And special thanks for noting that I’d only have to do this once - I wouldn’t have invested the time otherwise!
The best router plane setting up and sharpening video on here. So precise in you you explanation. Excellent
this video was so helpfull to me. my routerplane is finally cutting again with ease. thank you so much sir! i'm really happy
This fine video takes me back well over a century ago when English and other European craftsmen found themselves in the mountain deserts of Utah (USA) trying to survive a forced exile from greener places as farmers. Nevertheless, they had their skills and their tools for making beautiful decorations from wood. Four holy temples were concurrently being built here to honor their God and Savior. Their loving craftsmanship in stone and wood still astound me today. Paul Sellers helps me understand why I feel the way I do in those most sacred places. What an esthetic treat!
I'm half way through making your workbench Paul and bought myself a Stanly No.71. This video couldn't be more timely. It's fast becoming my favourite tool, such a pleasure to use. And now with this video I can set it up perfectly. Thank you.
r Sellers, I want to thank you for all the good stuff I am allowed to learn from you. Great channel, a real one stop source for woodcraft
You pop up in youtube shorts, brilliant . I used to watch every one of your vids, now I need this one !
Thank you, you always solve the problems in a very easy way.
I've been trying to deal with this exact problem on my router plane iron for years. I have never been able to get it right but this video has given me a better understanding of what I was not doing right. Thanks!
what?can't see cut,white wood with white work table. need some contrast.nice video
Aloha and Mahalo Paul for this and all your videos. Perfect timing on this one. I just got my Hand router plane last week and I am
getting ready to use it. My first project with it is to make a sharpening stone set up just like yours.
Thank you for all of our sharpening videos. They have made a great difference in reducing my stress level when using my planes and chisels. Now with this video it is time to get a router plane and move away from my noisy power router. Have a good week.
Paul, I am late to this video. However, I am recently in receipt of a vintage Stanley 71. This video helped me get it dialed in and I just love it. Thanks. From Ohio USA
Love my router plane and the fact that I learned to use it from Mr. Sellers here.
Many thanks, Paul. That was the best and most easily understood explanation of sharpening a router plane I've ever watched.
Thank you! I love my router plane, now I know how to keep it cutting properly.
Was just about to attack my Record 071. So grateful I found this first! And I’m going to use the vise-in-a-vise idea, too. Thank you!
Great, this is a more detailed way than the only other router plane sharpening I could find
At 76 years of age, I am not into buying more tools. Recently took you advice and made a poor man's router using a 2x4 block and a 1/4 inch chisel. Did a great job routing 1/2 inch deep rebates.
Those work and get a job done, but the ready-made vintage Stanley is awfully nice, no matter your age. I try to never buy a new tool, but refurbish-as needed the vintage tools I keep saving from the scrap heap. But I'm only 52 and have a lot of chips to make!
Great detail and such a gifted craftsman.
And, if such comparisons were valid, such a gifted teacher!!!!!!
Finally! Someone actually explained the way and reason for the shape of the blade. I have two older router planes I purchased and have yet to do the proper restoration of the blades because I didn't understand what was needed. Thank you, Paul for explaining all of the things meant to be in that plane's angles and blades.
Very informative video. Some great insights into how router planes work, and how they don't. It's never occurred to me that the angle of the iron was necessary for it to work; I always assumed the heel was lifted like that because it saved material. It makes sense, though, because otherwise it'd just be sort of skidding along the surface.
If I could offer some unsolicited advice: It can be hard to tell what shaping has been done to small, shiny metal surfaces. Metalworking types often use a bright blue dye on the surface to make it easier to see. It's far easier to tell what's happening on video, and I'm told it often helps a lot in person, too. There are dedicated products for the purpose, like Dicum, or you can just use a large blue Sharpie. You guys continue to do a really amazing job with the videography, and I was able to follow along with the video. It's just a suggestion that might help further improve the clarity.
Edited: formatting.
Thanks Paul ,you teach so well for us all
A man and his love for a tool... beautiful to see. Such a passion and knowledge for a craft is rare. As always thx for sharing. 🙏
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on how to set the router blade
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Love my router planes. Have two that have come in so handy and are so much faster than pulling out the electric router for many small and large tasks. Thanks for the tutorial. It will prove to be useful when it comes time to resharpen the blades.
Well done Paul. Always wanted a router plane and gratefully received a very rusty Record from a good friend of mine. Busy using electrolysis to "back plate" the rust of the sole now. your sharpening advice is very clear. Thank you
many thanks for such a detailed explanation, hopefully I'll be able to use my router plane finally!
Paul, I have owned a router plane more than 30 years but you have just taught me something, I just thought they were were naturally roughing out for fine chisel work!
Thank you for the explanation. I have struggled with sharpening my iron since I got it
Extremely helpful. I've recently procured a router plane and was wondering the best way to do that! Thanks so much.
Excellent video! So professional that there is absolutely no need to edit any of the shots. Amazing really. This is how all video tutorials should be shot. Congratulations
Excellent and very helpful video lesson. Thanks!
Absolutely superb Mr. Sellers! Thanks very much indeed.
Just last night I was just looking through your videos for this! Lucky me!
Brilliant, thanks Paul
Still looking for my first router, can't seem to find one anywhere around where I live. New tools are definitely not in my budget. You may see a few new power tools here and there, on my channel, but those were gifts. Matter of fact, I don't think I've gotten into my shop for quite a few months now. I gotta get back out there. My metal surfaces are likely getting some rust on them. Our humidity levels around here tend to affect even through oil and/or wax coatings.
What is the best router for a beginner with a very very low budget?
Im over the moon with my £15 No4 plane. Thanks to you. 😊 kind regards Cindy Harrison an old grandmother learning and having fun
going to build my own. this helps a lot. thanks again as always
Thanks Paul. Fantastic explanation. Just done the half inch blade on my recently purchased old No71. Now cuts nice and square. I only varied from you on the bevelled edge, which I omitted a secondary bevel. I may add one later. Cuts nice and in plane with the sole now.
Great video thank paul. Inerestingly I tried to file the plane iron and the file just glided off. Was too hard for it. It is the newer version albeit still quite old. they may have changed the hardening? I have spent so far about 2 hours on it and still not quite there.... Definitely a lot harder
Paul, can you route cabinet grade plywood such as the one you were showing in this video? Thank you for all the informative videos you've amassed!
Help! Many thanks for your latest video on the router plane which is the point of my question. I have acquired a Stanley No. 71. Only the casting, no hardware. I had a friend turn the knobs for me so I’m on my way to restoration. I’m stumped, as well as 3 hardware stores, as to the threads on the threaded post and the threaded holes for the screws to secure the knobs. Can you help me? I have the equipment and know how to fabricate all the hardware but before I go further I want to make sure I can get the threaded bits. Thanks for all you do.
Thanks Paul. I think I've read everything you've written on this without good results. This now becomes clear. Look forward to a sharp router plane...finally!
Hello from Norway 🇳🇴
I love videos like this. Detailed and to the point. It’s really helpful for us who are just starting out. Looking forward to seeing more about speciality planes/tools. Thanks for this information:)
Great video Paul. What are the small diamond stones you use for the micro bevel?
Thanks
Thanks for another inspirational video.
Thanks. Helped me a lot. My best regards to you Mr Paul.
Many thanks. And up goes the price of router planes again :)
Aloha Paul, the #71 was my first plane as a young woodworker. Even before all the other hand planes that Dad kept hidden from his 'little Mr. Fix it'.
Thank you, Paul.
Brilliant how you clamped vice on vice great idea
thank you Paul. I love all your teachings..... thank you for sharing them. I recently found a Stanley #71 router plane at an antique mall. as well as a hand forged mortis chisel, cant wait to try them out. My question is, the router plane has a blade that is not square across, it is pointed. it has two bevels on the top. do you initialize it the same way? is this common? any feedback would be appreciated as I am learning and loving hand woodworking. wishing you all the best from the United States.
Thank you very much for yet another superb video, detailed, precise, thoroughly English, no wasted words, no nuisance background music, no one trying to be a comedian, no slovenly American jargon, superbly videoed. Without a doubt the most excellent woodworking videos. No disrespect to Rob Cosman or Stumpy Nubs who are also outstanding and generous spirited in sharing knowledge and experience.
Read your explanation in Essential Woodworking Hand Tools, possibly one of the finest books of its type available, but couldn’t quite understand it properly but this video made it abundantly clear. I love the detail, precision and thoroughness.
Heartfelt thanks
Very helpful. My router had no blade and this will help me make a new one out of square tool steel stock. So even if my bend isn't forged perfectly to the ideal degree it will work. Thanks Uncle Paul.
Blades are available from Lee Valley. I got a 1/4" one from them but they also have the 1/2" version.
RH Hutchins, Thank you, I know. Bit of a problem here in South Africa, heavily taxed, iffy delivery, long time till that delivery. And I will enjoy the making, knowing that with Uncle Pauls help I will have a working router.
Will have to give those instructions a go! I purchased a Stanley 71 1/2 not too long ago and was wondering about a better way of approaching sharpening the tool!
Thank you so much!
Paul, You are way beyond my knowledge and experience but I thought I would mention something I was taught in college metal working class.
In order to flatten metal, as in this instance, it is better (once you are close by the way you did fast removal) to turn and stand at the end of the table, place both thumbs on top of the file with fingers on the bottom spaced a comfortable distance apart. Place file on metal and with slight pressure push across the metal. Watch the marks the file makes and adjust if necessary to flatten the metal.
Respectfully submitted, Kevin
I've been waiting for this video for almost two years! Thank you.
Definitely my favorite hand tool to use! It gets less use than most of the others, but I love every second of it.
Would having a bit of a skew make it cut easier?
very useful thanks paul
Thank you, thank you, and thank you. Been afraid to touch mine until I saw a more proper way to sharpen one. Mine is starting to get dull and needs sharpened. Again, many thank you's. Cheers :)
I notice that appears to be a Stanley 71. What is your opinion of the 71 vs 71-1/2?
Awesome job Paul! 👍
Amazing video!! I appreciate all that you do sir!!
Hi master Paul
Me again 😀
I've finally managed to get a Stanley 71 lovely tool and in the box all shiny and sound. Little problem thought the cutter adjuster nut is missing. Gutted paid over 100 quid for it.
Any advice, replacement? A M6 knurled thumb bolt would do the trick?
I blame you for buying one ...😀😀 just kidding. You inspired me so much and the little projects have done and will do are thanks to you.
Take care sir.
Now where did I put that d.. n router? Oh, of course, with the spokeshaves that I also never used until Mr Sellers came along.
Thank you, good Sir.
I was expecting this video for a long time...thank yiou
I hope you are going to post this on Woodworking Masterclasses, so I can download!!
Paul, your tips are alway great and helpful. Thanks man!
That’s great Paul - something I certainly wouldn’t have thought of. To extend this idea, you could maybe use a kind of “ruler trick” by taping one to the front area of the sole of the router plane, to match the pitch angle of the blade sole, then do the whole thing as one to level the blade bottom with the sole. You’d bevel the back edge of the plane sole a bit but I wouldn’t mind that.
Thank you so much. I've just got my first router and I was wondering how to sharpen it. So this perfect timing :)
Thanks a lot Paul. This is really useful and necessary video ... Take care of yourself. :)
What is the cutting fluid used on your diamond plates in that black spray bottle? Great video by the way I always enjoy watching an old pro doing what they do best!
I saw on another tutorial that he uses just a window cleaning liquid.
Hope that helps Ray.
Cheers
Great video thanks
Thank you.
Thanks Paul been waiting for this for a while now I can finally get my 71 sharpened Properly
I just got that plane, looks like it’s never been used. Perfect explaination of what I need to do next
Thank you
That was really helpful. Thank you so much.
Thanks for showing this although I haven't found a metal router I bought a wooden one with a wedge holding the iron just need to restore it first..
Great tutorial. thank you. I'm going to tune mine and start using it.
Great video Paul. Did you receive or see my message about finishing, ie shellac and mixing and your uses. Cheers and keep up the great work!
Add me to the list of those who would like to see your explanation of how to make shellac solutions of various # cuts. In the states I know of only one source for shellac and that is the Zinsser Bulls Eye brand but I'm yet to find its 'weight.' I have some flakes that I'd like to mix but I'd like to have benefit of your knowledge, Paul, before doing so. I bought Hake brushes in anticipation.
As ever, thank you for all you have done and continue to do for us. I've been laid up for about 6 weeks and have been binge watching your TH-cam tutorials and those videos I've downloaded from Woodworking Master Classes. It has made the inactivity almost bearable.
Thanks Paul.
oh soooooooo helpful!
Sir, what is the "narrow band of light" @15:16? A tiny bevel? Also, isn't the action of this blade the same as when you jab with your chisel to establish the bottom of a dado or rabbet?
I would think of this action more as raking than jabbing. A road grader rather than a backhoe. Hmm, a road grader might be more analogous to a plane, or better, a scraping plane, while a backhoe can sink its teeth down below grade. And a backhoe doesn't work by moving along. Drat, maybe I simply should lay off the landscaping comparisons.
Paul, think about how it could be made to slice across the grain to avoid lifting it.
Is micro bevel necessary? if so, what's the bevel angle, 25? 30 degress? I have a veritas router, which has detachable blade. Thank you
By the way, I am selling my table and chop saws, and transitioning to hand saws. Thanks to you!!
Not necessary for two bevels. I shoot for somewhere between 25-30 degrees because it is more akin to paring than powering through.
@@paulsellers7953 Thanks! I followed your instruction, and it cuts very well.
It struck me as I got to the end of the video that what I just witnessed was a master showing the apprentice - me - how to maintain the tool that would likely become the heart of my work. Obvious? Yes of course. But if you were an apprentice, how long would it take before you completely understood what was being said, its importance and then understanding how to maintain and sharpen the cutting iron? It was a 20 minute investment in time that was well worth spending,
what if the cutter does not mate to the sole at 90 degrees? my cutter edge is square to its own shaft, but my one stanley router seems like the V notch in the body that the cutter sits in is not perfect and the cutter angles to the side slightly. I never thought it was worth grinding my cutter out and just use the plane slightly skewed.
Sure it is not wear on the router base? You could add a hard wood base and square the base to the post? I have a router that is worn to a slope toe to heel that need this done.