Being an old mechanic… retired now it was an excellent tutorial video for the DIY mechanic and it was good to see NO gloves just a good mechanic working and not frighted to get a bit of oil on his hands … 👏👏👍
anyway a lot, like me, use gloves because a lot of automotive fluids are known carcinogens and cause skin problems in a long term exposure. Also in a lot of work places they are required as they are DPI.
Gloves are smart, especially against open cuts and as a previous comment mentioned, cancer. There's a reason less mechanics are dying from cancer etc and that's because safety is now a thing.
Thanks!! Very good video. Me and my brother just changed the belt on my twingo 2 phase 2 this way after paying 600 bucks to have it done at our local garage. As it turns out those amateurs tightened the roller clockwise so it was grinding on the housing causing a squeeky belt. They also tightened the belt way above the indicator and the belt wasnt nicely centered (which is prolly less important). Anyhow if you want it right you gotta do it yourself! Worked like a charm with a 40 bucks 500nm electric impact wrench from Lidl! Didnt even have to block the flywheel and it came right off. Runs very smooth now and the drillbit part was also legendary for tightening it back up.
Thanks for the clear explanation I was thinking of doing my Clio but thought it would be too much hassle but after watching this I am going to DIY it for sure
Thank you so much for this video! I was struggling a lot with the tensioner on my wife's Modus and actually damaged the tensioner. Allthough I had the tension indicator right, it was running against the cilinderblock. Seems like you can have the tensioner mounted with the markings correct, but it still can hit the cilinderblock. So I ordered a new belt and tensioner and find this really helpfull video. Now I did it again and it seems to be running smoothless, so thank you! On a Modus there really is much, much less space then on the Clio in this video.
Thanks very helpful and informative as mine needs doing soon as I bought car with 96000 miles on and after checking prices for work to be done it's nearly as much as I paid for car. So thanks again great video
Tbh that sump wasn't too bad, it does look rusty but in general was ok really, still nice thick metal, unless it was starting to get quite thin I wouldn't worry too much
One best video I have ever watched on youtube. Best and well illustrated.Thank you for sharing this video learnt a lot from you.Accept my subscription mate.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! I did it over the weekend on my Clio 4 1.2 16v. Everything went ok, but I hear a high pitch noise that wasn't there before. It changes with the rpm. The noise is only there when the metal upper cover of the belt is installed. Do you know what it could be? Maybe the belt is too tight and the top cover cavity is just amplifying the noise? I tightened the tensioner according to your video and the manual, but I noticed it moved slightly after rotating the camshaft. I drove about 30 km, seems perfectly fine and the noise is not so loud anymore.
Is there a key in the crankshaft timing gear. I know the older model didn't have one. Did u still the flywheel locked while buzzing out the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Very good explanation!! I also have put a Gates kit like this and I want to know if also you have adverted a little noise at the idle, after timing belt replacement. Some mechanics said to me that the cause of the noise is the rubber belt compound. Thank you so much!!
Hello in a Renault clio 1.2 engine how would you know the difference in a camshaft with a groove and a camshaft without a groove im trying to set the valve timing and the gaps are different from camshaft with groove and camshaft without groove. Thanks Michael
Wouldn't you usually lock the cam gear in place as well to prevent it moving under the load of valve springs acting on the cam lobes? I can see it doesn't jump out of time here, and I'm wondering why that is...
I would whilst in there, it's not much more work....I've known pumps that were ok with the old belt start to leak with a new belt and tensioner as it puts more stress on the old pump bearing possibly causing a leak....alternator and mounting bracket needs to come off to get to pump hose connection bolts.
New Clio front Subframe/ Radiator support sections are £50-£60 new aftermarket....it's common for them to rust out....40 mins fits one, pretty easy....the aftermarket ones fit fine, genuine is approx £200-£220, they're not really any better quality.
Hi, I followed the video but unfortunately even if I double checked everything, once done and turn on the engine, it dies.. It stays on for about 2 seconds, then it shuts off. It accelerates if I press the gas. Might be out of timing? Have you ever experienced something similar? Thank you
@ the crankshaft belt pulley was not fitted well. It has 3 small knobs that fit on 3 holes. I putted it wrong and it was not well aligned, causing friction that turned car off. If it happens to you I suggest to redo the whole work.
Wouldn’t it be better to feed the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket first rather than the camshaft sprocket? Also before removing the belt and in addition to pinning the crankshaft, wouldn’t it be better to also pin the cam shaft sprocket?
Belt and water pump took me 3.5 hours.... I'd never done one on that engine before....that's counting a warm and a drive up to get air out of the cooling system.
My Slm Vehicle My 2007 model CLIO 3 1.2 16v gasoline vehicle does not exceed 90 km at 3000 rpm on long distances. It does 115-120 km over 4000 rpm, but the car screams a lot. As far as I learned, when the last gear is changed, it easily goes over 100 km at normal speed. Is this true, how much is the estimated cost? Is there a suitable gearbox for this if we put another gearbox? I would be very grateful if you could answer my questions. Thank you.
![[DE] Watch and Work - Renault Twingo 1.2l 16V](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/lvywvEMIKwY/mqdefault.jpg)
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Being an old mechanic… retired now it was an excellent tutorial video for the DIY mechanic and it was good to see NO gloves just a good mechanic working and not frighted to get a bit of oil on his hands … 👏👏👍
Thanks for the comment! Always nice to hear positive feedback 👍
anyway a lot, like me, use gloves because a lot of automotive fluids are known carcinogens and cause skin problems in a long term exposure. Also in a lot of work places they are required as they are DPI.
Gloves are smart, especially against open cuts and as a previous comment mentioned, cancer. There's a reason less mechanics are dying from cancer etc and that's because safety is now a thing.
True legend for using a drill bit to lock the flywheel 🙏
Thanks!! Very good video. Me and my brother just changed the belt on my twingo 2 phase 2 this way after paying 600 bucks to have it done at our local garage. As it turns out those amateurs tightened the roller clockwise so it was grinding on the housing causing a squeeky belt. They also tightened the belt way above the indicator and the belt wasnt nicely centered (which is prolly less important). Anyhow if you want it right you gotta do it yourself! Worked like a charm with a 40 bucks 500nm electric impact wrench from Lidl! Didnt even have to block the flywheel and it came right off. Runs very smooth now and the drillbit part was also legendary for tightening it back up.
Great video mate, doing my mums Clio and was unsure of crank pin location. Real easy to follow and concise. Cheers.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment
Thanks for the clear explanation I was thinking of doing my Clio but thought it would be too much hassle but after watching this I am going to DIY it for sure
No problem 👍 glad it'll help 👌👍
Very nice job. I need to watch again in a bigger screen. Greetings from Chile
Thank you very much! 👍👍👌
Thank you so much for this video!
I was struggling a lot with the tensioner on my wife's Modus and actually damaged the tensioner.
Allthough I had the tension indicator right, it was running against the cilinderblock. Seems like you can have the tensioner mounted with the markings correct, but it still can hit the cilinderblock.
So I ordered a new belt and tensioner and find this really helpfull video.
Now I did it again and it seems to be running smoothless, so thank you!
On a Modus there really is much, much less space then on the Clio in this video.
Nice one, glad you got it sorted! thanks for the comments 😃 yeah the modus are a lot tighter access!! ha
Thanks very helpful and informative as mine needs doing soon as I bought car with 96000 miles on and after checking prices for work to be done it's nearly as much as I paid for car. So thanks again great video
Thanks for the comment 👍🙌
Thank you for your time explaning step by step. Can't miss! You just helped saved a huge quantity of money to most of us. Cheers. 🍻
Great to hear! 👍
@@diydaly in my case is a 7.5mm drill bit.
In order to remove the circulation water pump, do I need to remove the aluminum connection leg next to it?
yeah a fair bits involved to get the pump out
great video! Is it normal for the tensioner to move left and right from the center position when turning the engine over by hand?
Thanks! Yeah that’s quite normal
@@diydaly thanks!! I'm not a fan of these manual tensioners .. some cars have an automatic tensioner , once it's released it's done.
Does the 1149 engine have timing chain?
You did a very good tutorial :) You are very good leaning out :)
Thats a great informative video , thank you very much for posting , lots of advice and im now ready to tackle my own . Brilliant !
Just one thing , do you think it would benefit in replacing the sump as like mine its rusty , i dont want to get caught out loosing all my oil ?
Glad it was helpful! thanks for the comment, much appreciated 👍
Tbh that sump wasn't too bad, it does look rusty but in general was ok really, still nice thick metal, unless it was starting to get quite thin I wouldn't worry too much
Fantastic job all your videos are quality and very well explained a true pro.👍
👌👌 thanks
Very nice to see you my friend 🎉
Really good detail with explanations. Thank you
👍👍 thanks
Very clear and informative video. Thanks 👍
👍👍thanks for the comment
One best video I have ever watched on youtube. Best and well illustrated.Thank you for sharing this video learnt a lot from you.Accept my subscription mate.
Nice one , thanks! Feedback is always appreciated 👌😁👍
Ustam eline emeğine sağlık çok ğüzel anlatmışsın sebeblendik bilğilerinizden hayırlı işler bol kazançlar diliyorum
sorry im struggling to translate mate
My Master thank you for your work.
@@adnancnar8919 nice 1, glad to help 👌👍👍
very good and detailed expalantion. God bless you! thanks.
Thanks a lot for the tutorial! I did it over the weekend on my Clio 4 1.2 16v. Everything went ok, but I hear a high pitch noise that wasn't there before. It changes with the rpm. The noise is only there when the metal upper cover of the belt is installed. Do you know what it could be? Maybe the belt is too tight and the top cover cavity is just amplifying the noise? I tightened the tensioner according to your video and the manual, but I noticed it moved slightly after rotating the camshaft. I drove about 30 km, seems perfectly fine and the noise is not so loud anymore.
Yeah give it chance to settle it, if you’ve lined it up it can’t be too tight , hopefully all good now if the noise is gone 👍
Is there a key in the crankshaft timing gear. I know the older model didn't have one. Did u still the flywheel locked while buzzing out the crankshaft pulley bolt.
yeah there is and yeah you can leave it it to undo it
Very good explanation!! I also have put a Gates kit like this and I want to know if also you have adverted a little noise at the idle, after timing belt replacement. Some mechanics said to me that the cause of the noise is the rubber belt compound. Thank you so much!!
👍👍 thanks , no I haven't experienced that to be honest mate
Nice video bro. greetings from Germany. Is this tutorial nearly the same for a 2008 Renault Clio 3 1.2 75hp?
Yea mate should be very similar 👍
@@diydaly thx bro. I will do it tomorrow with your tutorial. 👍👍❤️❤️
@@tottiterone4724 good luck 🤞👍👍
Hello in a Renault clio 1.2 engine how would you know the difference in a camshaft with a groove and a camshaft without a groove im trying to set the valve timing and the gaps are different from camshaft with groove and camshaft without groove. Thanks Michael
With groove 0.25 and 0.35. Without 0.10 and 0.15. That what i know
I have the same gates kit. At idle I have a little noise, some mechanics said that it's normal for this belt. Do toy know if it's right?
its bit hard to say without hearing the noise mate
but anyone know how to tighten the crank shaft pulley without this angular dial? some place it say 40 and 125 degree. I don't have this dial.
I fixed it. Don't need that. Only need to tighten it hard. And just use your eyes that it is a little over 125 degrees. You don't need a dial.
Wouldn't you usually lock the cam gear in place as well to prevent it moving under the load of valve springs acting on the cam lobes? I can see it doesn't jump out of time here, and I'm wondering why that is...
Depends where it lands but you can just adjust it if it does move
@@diydaly Alright, thank you for the info!
hello, I have a dacia logan with this engine from 2012, it has 45,000 km, should I change the water pump at these kilometers? Thank you!
I would whilst in there, it's not much more work....I've known pumps that were ok with the old belt start to leak with a new belt and tensioner as it puts more stress on the old pump bearing possibly causing a leak....alternator and mounting bracket needs to come off to get to pump hose connection bolts.
Hello, good work. Why didn't you put the lines on the belt exactly in place when you installed the new timing belt? Is there a reason for this?
The belt lines don’t always match the exact engine , this was the case on this one
@@diydaly Thank you, I follow your channel with great appreciation. God bless you.
@@HerMekanikoTo mine matched exactly on an 07 1.2 Clio yesterday....Gates kit.
Am un Logan 1,2 16 valve, an 2014..cred ca este la fel ca Renaultul din video?😊
good vid is it green antifreeze for this car
It’s was red but I have come across green in a few clios
Very nice video! The car undercarriage is a bit rusty, especially since it is not that old car, don't you tink?
Yeah looks worse on the video , pretty standard for this age car in uk
New Clio front Subframe/ Radiator support sections are £50-£60 new aftermarket....it's common for them to rust out....40 mins fits one, pretty easy....the aftermarket ones fit fine, genuine is approx £200-£220, they're not really any better quality.
Forgot to mention I had previously watched an autodoc video of same job but was nowhere as detailed as yours
Arr that’s good to hear! Positive feedback always appreciated 👍👍
Hi, I followed the video but unfortunately even if I double checked everything, once done and turn on the engine, it dies..
It stays on for about 2 seconds, then it shuts off. It accelerates if I press the gas.
Might be out of timing? Have you ever experienced something similar?
Thank you
How did you resolve this?
@ the crankshaft belt pulley was not fitted well. It has 3 small knobs that fit on 3 holes. I putted it wrong and it was not well aligned, causing friction that turned car off. If it happens to you I suggest to redo the whole work.
hello I want to ask this Renault where the camshaft sensor is located
im not sure tbh mate, it will usually bolt strait into the head , reading off the camshaft
thank you very much
@@cacilife4905 👍
Great video thanks for sharing buddy 🔧💥
Thanks mate 👌😁
EXCELLENT WORK MATE A MASSIVE HELP , NEW SUB FOR YOU
Thanks for the sub! glad to help 👌👍😃
Perfect jobs
Amazing job thank you
Thank you very much! glad you like it 👍👌
Wouldn’t it be better to feed the belt onto the crankshaft sprocket first rather than the camshaft sprocket? Also before removing the belt and in addition to pinning the crankshaft, wouldn’t it be better to also pin the cam shaft sprocket?
Either or mate, what ever you find easiest
How long is the Total time for this job? Thnx for sharing.
Around 3 hours
Belt and water pump took me 3.5 hours.... I'd never done one on that engine before....that's counting a warm and a drive up to get air out of the cooling system.
Thank You.
for your video
You are welcome
Is for Automatic is the same procedure?
Yeah it will be mate 👍
Thanks for the nolegy u gaved me
🙌
Great video thanks!!
You're welcome!
Ex ce llen ce. 👍👍👍
thanks
You can tell it's a well made video but the amount of adverts.
Grenat job thank you
👍👍 thanks for the comment
Op video 🎉🎉🎉
👍👍
Good job 👍
Thanks Kev 👍😃👌
Good job
Thanks Alexander 😁👍👍🙌
Très bien
Isnt it Clio mk4?
Not sure tbh , I thought it’s a 3
My Slm Vehicle My 2007 model CLIO 3 1.2 16v gasoline vehicle does not exceed 90 km at 3000 rpm on long distances. It does 115-120 km over 4000 rpm, but the car screams a lot. As far as I learned, when the last gear is changed, it easily goes over 100 km at normal speed. Is this true, how much is the estimated cost? Is there a suitable gearbox for this if we put another gearbox? I would be very grateful if you could answer my questions. Thank you.
You can't really change it for a different gearbox, are you sure it doesn't have a fault
Easy IF you have car lift 🙄
Easier without the lift 😂
That's a mk4 mate
Thanks , changed the title