Looked though almost 50 different videos to look for the depth difference in windows. How come nobody else discusses this major step ? Thank you for helping me out.
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for ..thank you ! you've given me the information I was looking for in a VERY easy to understand format ..and ultimately the confidence to DIY my own windows !
Such a well done video. I like the way you explained things in detail. Very informative. This application directly applies to my own project. One thing I noticed: it's common practice for the exterior trim on the bottom to sit between the side trim pieces rather than below. Great Job
Awesome Video - wish I would have watched this first. I figured out after the point - that all I had to do was measure the depth difference for my new window and make accommodations. I didn't do that so I have to rebuild the drywall trim and cut to the appropriate depth and re-install to fit. Watched many other videos for installing/replacing windows. Your video is the best that I have seen. Thanks for sharing. I have also subscribed. Keep up the great work with the videos.
Thanks man this is the exact video I was looking for ! I have been searching for weeks and this was finally recommended to me which is my exact install I have to do at home .
some of the comments are brutal. I definitely love this video, because I don't see a way that anything will be replaced. I get nervous when I see pros do it "quicker" great job
This is NOT a replacement window. This is the same as new construction. A replacement window does not have a nailing fin. Replacement windows fit to the inside of the old hole of the old window, similar to a block construction home except there is no flange around d the replacement window. Replacement windows do not have a flange or nailing fin. But this is the best video I have found for replacing g a window in general.
Many replacement windows do have shorter nailing fins so that they can be installed either through the frame or via the fin if the window is trimmed out. If your install doesn't need the fin, it is designed to be snapped off.
@@FullPictureMedia No that would be wrong and not a new construction window. If you don’t want to do the complete work of installation a new construction window properly then get a retrofit (it’s cheaper). But new consideration are much better last longer and definitely worth the price increase.
@@FullPictureMedia Okay bro, wow you got me. I was posting to a TH-cam video at midnight. I bet that’s the extent of your writing now days. But I guess if you can write a proper sentence that means you can properly install a window right?I can’t write English and you can’t install a window. So, I won’t be teaching grammar lessons and please you don’t install any windows. You act like 10-year old by responding with a immature insult that ironically does not make any sense.
I would recommend the bottom exterior trim is install in between the side exterior trim and not beneath. This allows for a positive drainage plain to every face of material installed.
Is that a retrofit window or a type that is installed in new construction? Also, I don't know what some of these other guys are thinking but I think you go above and beyond. Good work..
Thank you guys, I'm doing my windows, My concern is that my house have a 20 in total I want to start with 2 at the time, my wife don't trust I'll be able to nail it, but thks to all of you guys that post this tope of videos God bless you all Moises from Bakersfield Ca
Old video i know, but this is what I'm trying to do. How long does it take you to do a window like that? From start to finish? Just trying to get some realistic numbers. Great video, almost makes me thing I can do the ground floor windows myself :)
Very well done...i like how you explained everything.. which anyone should be able to follow your video and do the job correctly. .the one thing I think isn't such a good idea..using screws.. because nails won't stand out when you nail them flush.. screws you have to cover up with spackle or something..
I'm a newbie at this and thanks for your video. It is one of the best from start to finish. I do have a question, though. Did you caulk the gap on the top of the z flashing and the trim board? Wouldn't that be left un-caulked so that any moisture behind the siding would hit the z flashing and then out and away from the window?
nice video, next time run the trim on the left/right sides all the way down and fill in the lower horizontal piece last. its a better water proofing step
Do you caulk under the flashing? I'm a handyman and get jobs for recaulking windows pretty often. Now and then I get windows that all the caulking looks great and the window seal is intact, but they still leak during big storms. I've wondered if it gets in under that flashing
Hi there. Total newbie/amateur here. Question - why don't you caulk it first before putting it in for adhesion? Is it because a picture window only needs screws?
Great video!! F these internet trolls...These guys can also throw a football better, faster, and with more skill than Doug Flutie...right? ROFLMAO!! Is the window still there? Did it fall out? Will I die before that happens? then you did it right!
Great Video. Very helpful. Almost my exact situation. I have a question about the insulation that you stapled to the rough opening. In the video it says to do on the sides and top. What about the bottom? Why not the bottom?
I notice you use a different blade to cut drywall on your multi tool. I use the half round one with small teeth. It seems faster, straighter, same minimal dust, and hits corners more easily.
i use a modified makita biscuit jointer with the plate cut down to 3/4. i then set my depth to get the difference of the old window and the new window nail fin set back.
I noticed that the front edge of the window frame sticks out past the trim by about 1/4". Is it better to have the trim stick out past the window frame? I have this same problem and almost bought the 1" setback nail fin, but Milgard only makes this with a j-hook(Stucco-Key). If I purchase the 1 3/8" nail fin setback it will stick out like yours. Its really hard to find a 1" nailfin setback vinyl replacement window.
only measure from the outside if you are sure they are NOT step frames. i always measure from both the inside first and the outside last. this let's me know if there might be any curve balls.
Newb here. Would it not be better to put the Z flashing on top of the trim rather than the window itself? With Z flashing on the window as done here, would water not get in behind the trim when the caulking wears out?
@@StayHandy Thanks for the quick reply. Makes sense. What if you were to cut the top siding slightly above where the top trim would go, and put the Z flashing there? Or would cutting the siding introduce new issues? Again, newb, so I might be totally out to lunch here.
instead of insulation, i lay a back bead of caulk for the nail fin to set in to, then after i set the window, i put flashing tape over the top of the nail fin.
with an xox style window, i will shim up the middle fixed panel on purpose so that the side vents want to hang a bit lower when i set the window, the reason being is that it's easier to tune the flanking sashes.
No. Building envelopes is your moisture jacket. The exterior finish is your protective shell against sun and debris pushed by wind. Hope that clarified.
@12:23 when you check for level, what if it wasn't level? The flashing tape was already installed so where would the wood shims go if you were trying to get it level?
Thanks Steve. Actually, all of my videos so far are recording while working on my own home. But, if I was going to record at a customer's home, I would just offer them some sort of discount or have them sign a release. I haven't really looked into the laws around this yet, though.
Why install 4x1 wood trim pieces around the window if the new window edges are already trimmed with vinyl? I would either recess the window (replacement inset install) or substitute siding for the wood trim. Great flashing tips but vinyl looks really goofy popping/projecting out from the wood trim and siding.
All the windows that I have seen have a sticker on them that says “Do Not Nail Top”. So I was very surprised to see you put screws in the top of the window. I would never “nail the top”. Otherwise a great video.
Its a valid concern. I would stuff some Excluder strip in there, or maybe just some copper scrubber pad. Something that will block larger bugs but still let water through.
remember, the spot that doesnt have caulk isnt a gap its just not sealed tight to the house with the caulk. This is not an invitation for insects unless the trim starts to pull away from the side of the house creating a gap for critters to enter into.
that look like mold and water damage under the top trim- why not address that. Probably from the trellis that was installed after the fact and was not flashed and built properly and/or the top trim was never caulked and fastened properly. when i install trim after installing window and flashing properly, i always caulk the back of the trim to the surface and then caulk where the corner of the trim meets the siding- caulk is cheap and that's a great double insurance policy, especially on the top. never the bottom. sides yes. if your really smart, you will run a bevel on the top of the top trim to allow water to run off. these little things are what make or break an installation.
Fairly good job but a proper window install should never need any caulking. Caulking just means maintenance and Overkill and doesn't look good. My home is 50 years old and was constructed with nail on aluminum windows with proper flashing, moisture barrier, abudted with siding. No caulk on the outside or inside. No water leaking anywhere in 50 years. Also, caulking inside means you had to much gap between window frame and drywall or wood frame.
Already wrong. B4 i made it 20 sec in. Again. Do NOT remove outside trim. Do NOT measure windows from outside trim. He doesnt know what hes talking about. Hes ripping the windows wrong, measuring them wrong, and installing them wrong. Hes a DIY installer, or a general contrctor. Not ideal.
mercerjimmy this is one way, a very bad way, but the correct way is to pull your vinyl beads and scrape the glazing with a flexible putty knife and collapse the aluminum frame on the inside of the house. Install in 1x without having to do everything this joker said. Brick is even easier. Bryan turner is right, this guy is wrong. Don't hire a handyman for something as important as your windows.
mercerjimmy internet expert? Haha. I was a bit rough on the comment but for metal outs like this u remove the glass, bottom sash pops out, cut the glass on top sash. Collapse the frame. Done. Set new window to inch 1/2 depth from drywall. Don't overpay for new construction window, get a replacement. There thicker. Then use metal trim and wrap over outside 1x4. For this video specific. If u take that 1 by off u run a greater risk of damaging the outside, and many other issues.
He did a fine weather tight job. I've seen pro installers not use any nails, flashing or sealant on an entire condo project, which all had to be replaced.
I noticed that you DID NOT use the Renovate Right Procedures for this job. Are you Renovate Right certified? That job, where I'm located, could have cost you a minimum of $30,000 in fines and possibly a prison sentence.
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excellent, one of the best video's for window install
But done incorrectly
Looked though almost 50 different videos to look for the depth difference in windows. How come nobody else discusses this major step ? Thank you for helping me out.
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for ..thank you ! you've given me the information I was looking for in a VERY easy to understand format ..and ultimately the confidence to DIY my own windows !
You're very welcome!
In northern California many houses are sided with T1-11 and the windows are aluminum. This video is very applicable to houses in that area.
By far the best video on this subject
Such a well done video. I like the way you explained things in detail. Very informative. This application directly applies to my own project. One thing I noticed: it's common practice for the exterior trim on the bottom to sit between the side trim pieces rather than below. Great Job
That is very similar to my window project and help immensely. Thank you for the video.
I've watched so many videos, this one is the best one I seen so far.
Awesome Video - wish I would have watched this first. I figured out after the point - that all I had to do was measure the depth difference for my new window and make accommodations. I didn't do that so I have to rebuild the drywall trim and cut to the appropriate depth and re-install to fit. Watched many other videos for installing/replacing windows. Your video is the best that I have seen. Thanks for sharing. I have also subscribed. Keep up the great work with the videos.
Great video! Haven't seen many videos describing flange window replacement on T111 siding. Thank you!
You're welcome!
I used to maintain Mrs. Milgards Landscaping! Her 15' high rhododendron gardens were GORGEOUS!
What a great job. Wish we had contractors with this skill around here,
Excellent! This is exactly the information I have been looking for the last 3 days!
Best VIDEO EVER.
Great job! your instructions are clear and uncomplicated. thank you!
Thanks man this is the exact video I was looking for ! I have been searching for weeks and this was finally recommended to me which is my exact install I have to do at home .
some of the comments are brutal. I definitely love this video, because I don't see a way that anything will be replaced. I get nervous when I see pros do it "quicker" great job
This is NOT a replacement window. This is the same as new construction. A replacement window does not have a nailing fin. Replacement windows fit to the inside of the old hole of the old window, similar to a block construction home except there is no flange around d the replacement window. Replacement windows do not have a flange or nailing fin. But this is the best video I have found for replacing g a window in general.
Many replacement windows do have shorter nailing fins so that they can be installed either through the frame or via the fin if the window is trimmed out. If your install doesn't need the fin, it is designed to be snapped off.
@@FullPictureMedia No that would be wrong and not a new construction window. If you don’t want to do the complete work of installation a new construction window properly then get a retrofit (it’s cheaper). But new consideration are much better last longer and definitely worth the price increase.
@@FullPictureMedia Okay bro, wow you got me. I was posting to a TH-cam video at midnight. I bet that’s the extent of your writing now days. But I guess if you can write a proper sentence that means you can properly install a window right?I can’t write English and you can’t install a window. So, I won’t be teaching grammar lessons and please you don’t install any windows. You act like 10-year old by responding with a immature insult that ironically does not make any sense.
First person I've seen. Do it the right way. Nice video . subscribed
Thank you for sharing exelente job thank you so much and keep up the good work
I would recommend the bottom exterior trim is install in between the side exterior trim and not beneath. This allows for a positive drainage plain to every face of material installed.
Super helpful and informative. Thanks!
Your welcome!
The best video so far in TH-cam buen trabajo
Great Video. Thank you so much!
You’re welcome!
This is a under rated video, but i always thought the flashing went over the trim and not on the window.
Is that a retrofit window or a type that is installed in new construction? Also, I don't know what some of these other guys are thinking but I think you go above and beyond. Good work..
Man that was smooth👌🏼
good video man...the tool that i found works great is the milwaukee oscilating tool instead of the circular saw and saw zaw
Very well done
Thank you guys,
I'm doing my windows,
My concern is that my house have a 20 in total
I want to start with 2 at the time, my wife don't trust I'll be able to nail it, but thks to all of you guys that post this tope of videos
God bless you all
Moises from Bakersfield Ca
How did your install go?
Old video i know, but this is what I'm trying to do. How long does it take you to do a window like that? From start to finish? Just trying to get some realistic numbers. Great video, almost makes me thing I can do the ground floor windows myself :)
Very well done...i like how you explained everything.. which anyone should be able to follow your video and do the job correctly.
.the one thing I think isn't such a good idea..using screws.. because nails won't stand out when you nail them flush.. screws you have to cover up with spackle or something..
Very will done.
I'm a newbie at this and thanks for your video. It is one of the best from start to finish. I do have a question, though. Did you caulk the gap on the top of the z flashing and the trim board? Wouldn't that be left un-caulked so that any moisture behind the siding would hit the z flashing and then out and away from the window?
You are correct. It should not be caulked.
nice video, next time run the trim on the left/right sides all the way down and fill in the lower horizontal piece last. its a better water proofing step
I would put the flashing above the trim tucked behind siding. Good job though.
Thanks!
Great Job, God Bless.
thank you. You gave me some great tips.
Do you caulk under the flashing? I'm a handyman and get jobs for recaulking windows pretty often. Now and then I get windows that all the caulking looks great and the window seal is intact, but they still leak during big storms. I've wondered if it gets in under that flashing
Greatest vid
Hi there. Total newbie/amateur here. Question - why don't you caulk it first before putting it in for adhesion? Is it because a picture window only needs screws?
what if you DO cut through the house wrap? also, you don't have to seal behind the nailing flange?
Great video!! F these internet trolls...These guys can also throw a football better, faster, and with more skill than Doug Flutie...right? ROFLMAO!!
Is the window still there?
Did it fall out?
Will I die before that happens?
then you did it right!
Excellent job, I cant say the same to the Cameraman!
Great Video. Very helpful. Almost my exact situation. I have a question about the insulation that you stapled to the rough opening. In the video it says to do on the sides and top. What about the bottom? Why not the bottom?
The window is resting on the bottom so it would just compress the insulation anyway.
I notice you use a different blade to cut drywall on your multi tool. I use the half round one with small teeth. It seems faster, straighter, same minimal dust, and hits corners more easily.
Really helpful. thank you
i use a modified makita biscuit jointer with the plate cut down to 3/4. i then set my depth to get the difference of the old window and the new window nail fin set back.
I noticed that the front edge of the window frame sticks out past the trim by about 1/4". Is it better to have the trim stick out past the window frame? I have this same problem and almost bought the 1" setback nail fin, but Milgard only makes this with a j-hook(Stucco-Key). If I purchase the 1 3/8" nail fin setback it will stick out like yours. Its really hard to find a 1" nailfin setback vinyl replacement window.
How many hours labor and what kind of price would you put on a job like this?
only measure from the outside if you are sure they are NOT step frames. i always measure from both the inside first and the outside last. this let's me know if there might be any curve balls.
Newb here. Would it not be better to put the Z flashing on top of the trim rather than the window itself? With Z flashing on the window as done here, would water not get in behind the trim when the caulking wears out?
The trim needs to overlap the siding so that wouldn't work.
@@StayHandy Thanks for the quick reply. Makes sense. What if you were to cut the top siding slightly above where the top trim would go, and put the Z flashing there? Or would cutting the siding introduce new issues? Again, newb, so I might be totally out to lunch here.
If I have multiple layers of wood siding, I'm guessing I just cut through both and follow the rest of the steps outlined in this video?
instead of insulation, i lay a back bead of caulk for the nail fin to set in to, then after i set the window, i put flashing tape over the top of the nail fin.
What you do is also what Milgard recommends.
I thought you would leave the entire bottom edge uncaulked to allow drainage.
why did you caulk the joint between the top wood siding and the zbar metal, water will not be able to drain.
with an xox style window, i will shim up the middle fixed panel on purpose so that the side vents want to hang a bit lower when i set the window, the reason being is that it's easier to tune the flanking sashes.
Awesome bro thanks
haha, xlr cable hanging out the jeans from the mic pack...thats old school
Yes, my setup is far from ideal. Do you have a recommendation for something better?
My house has the windows framed with 4x4s on the exterior how would you waterproof those? It looks like they used flashing on top of them.
does anyone know the average cost of getting windows replaced in a home - 4 windows like the one this guy just replaced? by the way great video.
Great job
i have a split-level w/ aluminum siding. How do I remove the trim without damaging the aluminum siding?
great video
damn way easier then cutting the fins off
Good video, but you would also want to run the seal tape from the window nailing flange to the exterior siding, then install your trim.
No. Building envelopes is your moisture jacket. The exterior finish is your protective shell against sun and debris pushed by wind. Hope that clarified.
I notice you did not replace the T1-11 pieces that been cut off before install the trims. Why? Thanks
There's no need to. The window trim covers the cut.
Nice
@12:23 when you check for level, what if it wasn't level? The flashing tape was already installed so where would the wood shims go if you were trying to get it level?
Not to shabby D. How do you approach your customers about recording onsite?
Thanks Steve. Actually, all of my videos so far are recording while working on my own home.
But, if I was going to record at a customer's home, I would just offer them some sort of discount or have them sign a release. I haven't really looked into the laws around this yet, though.
No sealant on the back side of the nailing fin?? I use OSI on every nailing fin.
There's. MORE wrong then just a sealant
@@khik6664 oh definitely
u didnt fill these gaps between the casing and siding?
Always, always, always ROLL the flashing tape with a J-roller as required! (otherwise it won't stick)
Thanks for the tip.
Can I remove the window shims after the foam dries up. I want to foam where the shims where then replace the screws.
Nope. The shims are structural, leave them in, score them, and snap them off flush.
Is this measurement “actual frame size” or “rough opening”
How’s that window holding up?
Is that the TMWA Chalk Bluff Facility in the back?
Why install 4x1 wood trim pieces around the window if the new window edges are already trimmed with vinyl? I would either recess the window (replacement inset install) or substitute siding for the wood trim. Great flashing tips but vinyl looks really goofy popping/projecting out from the wood trim and siding.
Do you have to cut the sides? 😅
Dude you need help!!! We're you located?
otherwise a pretty good video!.
Whats behind the housewrap?
looks like golden over I25
what was the charge for this??
All the windows that I have seen have a sticker on them that says “Do Not Nail Top”. So I was very surprised to see you put screws in the top of the window. I would never “nail the top”. Otherwise a great video.
Why not?
That's only for retro windows.... Not flange...
Of course he shows cutting around the window @3:12 on the left side of the window where the saw is the perfect width. What about the right side?!
He's cute!
By any chance do you know what nails I would use to install a vinyl nail flange window ?
Flashing: go up the side one inch? Treat yourself to another 5 inches next time. 😁
If you leave an uncaulked spot under the window, aren't you inviting insects and bees nests into your home?
flyboyglenn no
Its a valid concern. I would stuff some Excluder strip in there, or maybe just some copper scrubber pad. Something that will block larger bugs but still let water through.
remember, the spot that doesnt have caulk isnt a gap its just not sealed tight to the house with the caulk. This is not an invitation for insects unless the trim starts to pull away from the side of the house creating a gap for critters to enter into.
do you need a license to do this in california?
itsmeitsme54 yes
that look like mold and water damage under the top trim- why not address that. Probably from the trellis that was installed after the fact and was not flashed and built properly and/or the top trim was never caulked and fastened properly. when i install trim after installing window and flashing properly, i always caulk the back of the trim to the surface and then caulk where the corner of the trim meets the siding- caulk is cheap and that's a great double insurance policy, especially on the top. never the bottom. sides yes. if your really smart, you will run a bevel on the top of the top trim to allow water to run off. these little things are what make or break an installation.
The caulking job in the end is terrible. Also, don't use screws in the trim!
Your not going too custom bend trim for the outside so they dont have too paint it every 3 years fail
.
Fairly good job but a proper window install should never need any caulking. Caulking just means maintenance and Overkill and doesn't look good. My home is 50 years old and was constructed with nail on aluminum windows with proper flashing, moisture barrier, abudted with siding. No caulk on the outside or inside. No water leaking anywhere in 50 years. Also, caulking inside means you had to much gap between window frame and drywall or wood frame.
Caulking is required anywhere 2 dissimilar materials meet. Windows require caulking
@@Hintonburgerevents wrong. Learn about sheet flow and gravity. Have fun replacing caulk every ten years
@@teeduck codes are codes.
Canadian Residential Inspection Services USA is more advanced than Canada. Come look at my custom built home in the USA.
@@teeduck NAC code is NAC code
Already wrong. B4 i made it 20 sec in. Again. Do NOT remove outside trim. Do NOT measure windows from outside trim. He doesnt know what hes talking about. Hes ripping the windows wrong, measuring them wrong, and installing them wrong. Hes a DIY installer, or a general contrctor. Not ideal.
Bryan Turner
How do I remove my windows without removing the trim?
"B" can you offer any solutions to your proposed issues?
mercerjimmy this is one way, a very bad way, but the correct way is to pull your vinyl beads and scrape the glazing with a flexible putty knife and collapse the aluminum frame on the inside of the house. Install in 1x without having to do everything this joker said. Brick is even easier. Bryan turner is right, this guy is wrong. Don't hire a handyman for something as important as your windows.
mercerjimmy internet expert? Haha. I was a bit rough on the comment but for metal outs like this u remove the glass, bottom sash pops out, cut the glass on top sash. Collapse the frame. Done. Set new window to inch 1/2 depth from drywall. Don't overpay for new construction window, get a replacement. There thicker. Then use metal trim and wrap over outside 1x4. For this video specific. If u take that 1 by off u run a greater risk of damaging the outside, and many other issues.
He did a fine weather tight job. I've seen pro installers not use any nails, flashing or sealant on an entire condo project, which all had to be replaced.
I noticed that you DID NOT use the Renovate Right Procedures for this job. Are you Renovate Right certified? That job, where I'm located, could have cost you a minimum of $30,000 in fines and possibly a prison sentence.
Dude who cares about the certifies, that is just paper. Anybody with a good sense is able to install windows, even better than so called contractors.
How disgusting, put a real or old window in, instead of plastic crap
Really sick of these arm chair experts.