You should try installing the differential from below the car, lying on your back, with an exhaust in the way! Even with two of us, and the help of his big snap on trolley jack, it's not easy, or pleasant!
The only problem with grease is that it suspends any metallic debris in the trunion. Oil was chosen by Triumph because it allows debris to sink to the bottom of the trunion.
So that is the first time someone has provided an actual reason to use oil over grease. That makes sense. Prior to this comment no one could tell me why. Thank you both!
@@StevesProjectCarGarage I tried to explain this some time ago but my laungage is not English, so i have maybe confused you a bit. If you search the internet You should find pictures where the treads are broken off and stuck in the trunion.
Absolutely EP90 GL-4 Oil in the front trunnions, that's what the factory workshop manual says, also the trunnion and vertical link are an archimedes screw design, intended to pump OIL within, during movement
That darn diff is unfortunately not made to swing up into place once the bolt is driven home. Good to know about the 'screwdriver' holes to lever it. I never noticed those before
Steve .... if you can re use the brake adjusters do so .... clean them up, grease them and they'll be fine .... the modern replacement square headed cone adjuster is made of cheese .... the original one's don't round off the square edges so easily.
You can get a lot of that hardware such as those studs for the rear end believe it or not a Grainger all they gotta do is tell him what the length it is and the TPI on both ends of that and you can get grade 8 or are you stainless if you like great it would be probably more what I would use but nuts bolts. You don’t have to order that from Rimmers or even Spit Bits, which is a great source if you want to use their stuff but I like to Use separated stuff wherever possible as long as it’s the correct size TPI and you can talk it to the proper torque spec then you don’t need to go through the waiting game or pay a lot more money for shipping or anything like that. Believe it or not Ace is a great place that’s ace hardware store. Granger is another great place to get stuff. If you have a local bolt and screw distributor or manufacture around your area, get to know them well because they not only have SAE which believe it or not that spitfire does use a lotta essay Molson threads, but they will also have a lot of the millimeter thread And bolts that are required.
Steve change all that stuff I mean why go through the hassle of using old used possibly on the verge of failing, including the slack adjusters the springs the cylinder just change it all those parts are cheap and you don’t want to have to take all that crap apart again just because you didn’t want to do it when you had it all apart to begin with?
I totally agree with you about restoring a car isn’t cheap.! But some of the investment is strategic, especially on such wearable parts that are in question. When , you have everything broken down and at hand and you know it’s got age to it, and it’s been used in the past and it is a terminal part, that will have to be replaced. Is it not cheaper to bite the bullet for a few pennies now rather than a lot of dollars later.? You’re doing wonderful keep it up . I am restoring a 1967 GT six mark one . And I like you am enjoying this journey. Mind you, taking quite a bit longer, but I’m doing everything I can do to literally powder coating everything in the suspension that is going to see “road dirt”. That includes the brake backing plates, Springs axle shafts, the prop shaft, the oil pan, the swaybar, the shock towers, the frame itself have all been powder coated, as well as the wire spoke wheels! The chrome, including the finishers, the headlight buckets, and so on so forth we’re all being re-Chromed. The engine is rebuilt transmission rebuilt, the differential rebuilt. To proceed further in my build, I’m waiting for the engine to be assembled completely. Then I’ll mate the engine and transmission along with new hardware fasteners mounts that I’ve already purchased and install the mated pair on the chassis and also install the prop shaft. And then will have a fairly completed rolling chassis… Then it will be time to start tackling the bodywork 😳 oh boy, what fun I will have! I really relish every moment that I have to do this and when I have questions I stop, and I ask, because I don’t want to kick myself in the keister at a later date for overlooking such minor detail . Again, keep up the good work you are doing great! Godspeed !
Just got home .... looking forward to seeing this 🙂
You should try installing the differential from below the car, lying on your back, with an exhaust in the way! Even with two of us, and the help of his big snap on trolley jack, it's not easy, or pleasant!
Hahaha, hard pass.
The only problem with grease is that it suspends any metallic debris in the trunion. Oil was chosen by Triumph because it allows debris to sink to the bottom of the trunion.
You're absolut correct on this. I have spoken to several old Triumph specialists and no one recomended grease.
So that is the first time someone has provided an actual reason to use oil over grease. That makes sense. Prior to this comment no one could tell me why. Thank you both!
@@StevesProjectCarGarage I tried to explain this some time ago but my laungage is not English, so i have maybe confused you a bit. If you search the internet You should find pictures where the treads are broken off and stuck in the trunion.
Absolutely EP90 GL-4 Oil in the front trunnions, that's what the factory workshop manual says, also the trunnion and vertical link are an archimedes screw design, intended to pump OIL within, during movement
Another great video good progress!
Thanks Philip!
Looking great! Won't be long now!!
Thanks!! I’m hoping to have it rolling soon so I can change my focus back to the tub and getting it sat on the frame.
That darn diff is unfortunately not made to swing up into place once the bolt is driven home. Good to know about the 'screwdriver' holes to lever it. I never noticed those before
Seems like it wasn’t totally well thought out for service. But yeah the screwdriver hole seemed to work great!
Steve .... if you can re use the brake adjusters do so .... clean them up, grease them and they'll be fine .... the modern replacement square headed cone adjuster is made of cheese .... the original one's don't round off the square edges so easily.
Good to know! I actually disassembled them and soaked them in vinegar to eat the rust. They seem fine to me so I’ll do just that! Thanks for the tip!
I Agree, always use original parts if they are serviceable
Second Steve's advice. Use the old ones. The new ones are made of chinesium. Crumbles away easily.
Will do!! Thank you!
9:44 - where did you get the thinner buttons for the rear spring?
I got them from DC Machinist.
www.dcmachinist.com/shop/spitfire-gt6/4
You can get a lot of that hardware such as those studs for the rear end believe it or not a Grainger all they gotta do is tell him what the length it is and the TPI on both ends of that and you can get grade 8 or are you stainless if you like great it would be probably more what I would use but nuts bolts. You don’t have to order that from Rimmers or even Spit Bits, which is a great source if you want to use their stuff but I like to Use separated stuff wherever possible as long as it’s the correct size TPI and you can talk it to the proper torque spec then you don’t need to go through the waiting game or pay a lot more money for shipping or anything like that.
Believe it or not Ace is a great place that’s ace hardware store. Granger is another great place to get stuff. If you have a local bolt and screw distributor or manufacture around your area, get to know them well because they not only have SAE which believe it or not that spitfire does use a lotta essay Molson threads, but they will also have a lot of the millimeter thread And bolts that are required.
McMaster Carr is another fantastic source for hardware, and has an excellent website for finding what you need.
I’ve been a regular at ACE for hardware. There are somethings though I can’t seem to get there.
Steve change all that stuff I mean why go through the hassle of using old used possibly on the verge of failing, including the slack adjusters the springs the cylinder just change it all those parts are cheap and you don’t want to have to take all that crap apart again just because you didn’t want to do it when you had it all apart to begin with?
That is a valid point. I’m just trying to save a few bucks if I can in the process. Restoring a car isn’t cheap! Lol
I totally agree with you about restoring a car isn’t cheap.! But some of the investment is strategic, especially on such wearable parts that are in question. When , you have everything broken down and at hand and you know it’s got age to it, and it’s been used in the past and it is a terminal part, that will have to be replaced. Is it not cheaper to bite the bullet for a few pennies now rather than a lot of dollars later.?
You’re doing wonderful keep it up .
I am restoring a 1967 GT six mark one . And I like you am enjoying this journey. Mind you, taking quite a bit longer, but I’m doing everything I can do to literally powder coating everything in the suspension that is going to see “road dirt”. That includes the brake backing plates, Springs axle shafts, the prop shaft, the oil pan, the swaybar, the shock towers, the frame itself have all been powder coated, as well as the wire spoke wheels! The chrome, including the finishers, the headlight buckets, and so on so forth we’re all being re-Chromed. The engine is rebuilt transmission rebuilt, the differential rebuilt. To proceed further in my build, I’m waiting for the engine to be assembled completely. Then I’ll mate the engine and transmission along with new hardware fasteners mounts that I’ve already purchased and install the mated pair on the chassis and also install the prop shaft. And then will have a fairly completed rolling chassis…
Then it will be time to start tackling the bodywork 😳 oh boy, what fun I will have!
I really relish every moment that I have to do this and when I have questions I stop, and I ask, because I don’t want to kick myself in the keister at a later date for overlooking such minor detail .
Again, keep up the good work you are doing great! Godspeed !
Brake shoes not brake pads. Please do your homework.
Yep! You are right and I know better.