I too have upgraded to the ClP9037L Land Rover Freelander wheel studs and I upgraded the bolts that attach the front rotors to the hubs from grade 5 to grade 8.
Little tip from my master mechanic training from 50 years ago. When tightening or torquing a nut and bolt to spec, always torque the nut and not the bolt.
In order not to destroy those caps. You have two choices, one, you put a screw in the end hole, leave it there, and use it to pull the cap off, Or, two, you use a wide flat headed screwdriver to tap it off at 45 degees, turning the rotor and tapping it from the other side, until you loosen the cap, not so hard as to damage the cap, but hard enough to get it loose, also keep a couple of spares in stock, just in case!
Those bolts that hold the caliper mounting plates to the vertical link are only grade 5. IMHO, I think it would be better if they were grade 8 considering what they have to do!
I too have upgraded to the ClP9037L Land Rover Freelander wheel studs and I upgraded the bolts that attach the front rotors to the hubs from grade 5 to grade 8.
Little tip from my master mechanic training from 50 years ago. When tightening or torquing a nut and bolt to spec, always torque the nut and not the bolt.
Good to know! Thank you!
Congratulations on the 1000 subscribers! I watch your videos all the time. I have a 78 spitfire in restoring.
Thanks Dan!!
I put big studs I’m mine many moons ago when I would Autocross it. Just made me feel better.
Autocross is what drew my attention to this idea. It just makes sense!
In order not to destroy those caps. You have two choices, one, you put a screw in the end hole, leave it there, and use it to pull the cap off, Or, two, you use a wide flat headed screwdriver to tap it off at 45 degees, turning the rotor and tapping it from the other side, until you loosen the cap, not so hard as to damage the cap, but hard enough to get it loose, also keep a couple of spares in stock, just in case!
Good to know! Thanks!!
I new I would hear a BEEP when that bolt snapped! Also did you put the new seal's on the inside when you mounted them?
I reused the felt seals from before. Much like the bearings they only had 5 miles on them.
Those bolts that hold the caliper mounting plates to the vertical link are only grade 5. IMHO, I think it would be better if they were grade 8 considering what they have to do!
I've heard of people welding a nut in the inside of the dust cap. Then you can just use a bolt.
Now that is a smart idea!
How do you find all of the torque specs on these bolts? Love the series btw. (78' 1500 Spitfire)
Thank you!! I have a Haynes manual and an old shop manual. They are available online usually for free. They have a lot of good things for reference.