Nice review. There is definitely still a place in detailing for rotary polishers. I like using mine to "burning" jewel the paint with a finishing pad at low speed and just taking time, time, and more time to really burnish out a super high gloss. I use Polishangel Escalate lotion jeweling polish for that step. The fact that machine is less than 5 pounds is fantastic. I had an old rotary years ago that must have weighed about 12 pounds and was an arm breaker! I always loved the RUPES original "system" with the chemical bottle caps that matched what pad they were used (or recommended) with. Green pad, green cap. Blue pad, blue cap. etc etc. I really liked that. Made the whole process so much easier to understand and produced absolutely STELLAR results, even for weekend warriors. Even not using "test spots" etc which most enthusiasts did not do back in the day. Most enthusiast used a simple two or three step "generic" system from Mequiars, Mothers, 3M, Auto Magic, etc. and for 99.9% of enthusiast, they loved it. Now with thousands of products available from hundreds and hundreds of detailing companies now in business due to the internet, even enthusiasts are becoming experts just by watching TH-cam for "training" so to speak and are much more knowledgeable now than ever before. Some detailers still swear by the rotary but most have abandoned it for the long throw DA's. My favorite polisher right now is the new SPTA (most current version) 15mm long throw. That machine is SO AWESOME for the price. $225 and it is the smoothest polisher I have (and I have six total). It's literally like a Mercedes Benz of polishers. Great value and an overall great machine. The accessories are junk, but the machine itself is incredible. Half the price of a RUPES 15mm. I have spoken to other detailers who have both the RUPES long throw and the SPTA also and they also love the SPTA. I definitely want to try out those PADS. They look awesome and look like they did an excellent job.
Thanks!! I personally reach for my rotary most of the time. I love my Mille and my Rupes 15mm, but the rotary is so much faster if you how to fitness it. These cut and finish pads make the rotary so much less dangerous too! I agree about the Rupes system. I recently went out to Colorado for their 2-day advanced training course, and it was awesome! Their new system is even better and simpler. The color coding system is so easy, and it flat out works! Even their Uno Protect is great, which I was previously skeptical about. Rupes is a really great all around company too, great people out there. Never used the SPTA, but good to know its a solid machine. I'd be interested to know how they hold up to professional use over time.
At about 7:30 you provide incredibly important tip for any weekend warrior/rookie. I’ve heard the same thing from others like Jon from forensic detailing regarding those edges. Rupes is the way to go and I’m glad you did a review on their products. Excellent editing, as always. Quickly becoming one of my favorite channels on auto detailing.
The Rupes Cut & Finish pad + Rotary Coarse compound with a rotary polisher also works great on gelcoat as a one-step (unless the gelcoat is severely oxidized and you have to remove alot of material). Love this combo.
@@HOMELESSG0D If you're asking me and about gelcoat/boats: I thought the "coarse compound"/cut & finish woolpad gave a nice finish on such a hard surface, so I just waxed the boat afterwards with a marine-type synthetic polymer sealant (Jotun Hard Wax). Heard a lot of good experiences with Soft99's Fusso Coat on both cars and boats. Probably my next "wax" for both boat and car.
@@RojohII yes gelcoat. Never heard of Jotun or Soft99. I do boats and rv's once and a while and have a solid system but always interested what others use. I ordered the rupes cut/finish pad. I use strake yacht care products for gelcoat. I highly recommend them.
you are one hell of a detailer bro. i subbed to the channel right after first video i can learn a lot from you. keep up the good work. i'll check some of previous videos fromm the channel
Holograms are avoided by proper arm speed and keeping the pad parallel to the surface. With more aggressive pads and compounds holograms aren’t really avoidable. But with a finishing polish and a foam pad, even with a rotary holograms can be avoided using the above technique. Move slower though when finishing with foam.
@@TurnerMobileDetailing thank you for the tips. I love using my rotary but hate seeing the holograms. I just did my friend’s Audi,black of course. lol I found the magic combo towards the end but now I know. Keep up the great work.
@@geoffadam4475 I used megs polishing products for a while a while back. In my opinion they dust way too much. Rupes liquids dust much less, especially when used for the proper cycle time. Plus Rupes color codes all their liquids and pads making it much easier to decide what product to use in what situation. Meguiars has so many different correction liquids it gets confusing real fast.
Hey first, thanks for your videos they help me alot with some situations. I want ask you for video on how to clean (without damage or marring) polish dusting (im from israel in the summer times verry strong sun and dry air, and almost no sun so i have to deal with alot of dusting. Untill now i use menzarna polish and some tell me better to work with coch chemie (sorry for my mistakes my english is not the best) i will like you to make video on this topic love from israel❤️
Hello! I can see what I can do to get a video out like that. We’re heading into winter here so I might have to wait until spring or summer to make it. But dusting is a very common but preventable problem. The best way to clean polish dust is to prevent it. If you’re getting a lot of dust, first make sure your not using to much product. Check the manufacturers recommendations on how much to use in how large an area, and make sure you don’t work it too long. That last one is important because when you work a polish too long it dries out and turns to dust. If you still have dusting problems after all that then you probably need to change products. I love the Rupes system. Use the liquids with the recommended pads for the most part, and use the correct amount and the correct area size and working time, and I get little to no dust. Of course there’s always going to be a tiny bit especially in door cracks and body panel cracks, but an air compressor or soft towel easily and safely takes care of it. Rupes has a lot of info on their TH-cam channel on their products. You can also check out my video from a few months ago on the Rupes training class I took, very informative!
Bro that pad you use can combine to other compound im planning to change pad same you use that's nice because our campany using polytop foam pad work is good but cost time to work i hope you answer my question tnx you
If I understand you correctly, yes you can use other liquids with this pad, but Rupes designs their liquids and pads to work together and they work great together! Rupes does make foam rotary pads if you prefers foam.
@@TurnerMobileDetailing bro for your experience which is easy remove scratches or swirl foarm pad or wool pad may target is quicker remove scratches and like one time polish any suggestions give me because since im came in my company they use that polytop brand works is good but need time not same in your video less time specialy in black color long time i remove
Nice review. There is definitely still a place in detailing for rotary polishers. I like using mine to "burning" jewel the paint with a finishing pad at low speed and just taking time, time, and more time to really burnish out a super high gloss. I use Polishangel Escalate lotion jeweling polish for that step. The fact that machine is less than 5 pounds is fantastic. I had an old rotary years ago that must have weighed about 12 pounds and was an arm breaker! I always loved the RUPES original "system" with the chemical bottle caps that matched what pad they were used (or recommended) with. Green pad, green cap. Blue pad, blue cap. etc etc. I really liked that. Made the whole process so much easier to understand and produced absolutely STELLAR results, even for weekend warriors. Even not using "test spots" etc which most enthusiasts did not do back in the day. Most enthusiast used a simple two or three step "generic" system from Mequiars, Mothers, 3M, Auto Magic, etc. and for 99.9% of enthusiast, they loved it. Now with thousands of products available from hundreds and hundreds of detailing companies now in business due to the internet, even enthusiasts are becoming experts just by watching TH-cam for "training" so to speak and are much more knowledgeable now than ever before. Some detailers still swear by the rotary but most have abandoned it for the long throw DA's. My favorite polisher right now is the new SPTA (most current version) 15mm long throw. That machine is SO AWESOME for the price. $225 and it is the smoothest polisher I have (and I have six total). It's literally like a Mercedes Benz of polishers. Great value and an overall great machine. The accessories are junk, but the machine itself is incredible. Half the price of a RUPES 15mm. I have spoken to other detailers who have both the RUPES long throw and the SPTA also and they also love the SPTA. I definitely want to try out those PADS. They look awesome and look like they did an excellent job.
Thanks!! I personally reach for my rotary most of the time. I love my Mille and my Rupes 15mm, but the rotary is so much faster if you how to fitness it. These cut and finish pads make the rotary so much less dangerous too! I agree about the Rupes system. I recently went out to Colorado for their 2-day advanced training course, and it was awesome! Their new system is even better and simpler. The color coding system is so easy, and it flat out works! Even their Uno Protect is great, which I was previously skeptical about. Rupes is a really great all around company too, great people out there. Never used the SPTA, but good to know its a solid machine. I'd be interested to know how they hold up to professional use over time.
NIce, one of the best videos I have seen for instructing on the use of a rotary.
Thank you!
At about 7:30 you provide incredibly important tip for any weekend warrior/rookie. I’ve heard the same thing from others like Jon from forensic detailing regarding those edges. Rupes is the way to go and I’m glad you did a review on their products. Excellent editing, as always. Quickly becoming one of my favorite channels on auto detailing.
Thank you so much, happy to help! Rupes is definitely the way to go!
Great job 👍
What a nice job Seth. Mo
Thank you! 😉
Hey man love your stuff! Just started a detailing business. You're helping me out a ton. I wish I could pick your brain more.
Thanks man, happy to help. Click my Facebook link in the description below and DM me there, I try and answer whatever questions I can for you.
The Rupes Cut & Finish pad + Rotary Coarse compound with a rotary polisher also works great on gelcoat as a one-step (unless the gelcoat is severely oxidized and you have to remove alot of material). Love this combo.
what wax or polish do you follow up with?
@@HOMELESSG0D If you're asking me and about gelcoat/boats: I thought the "coarse compound"/cut & finish woolpad gave a nice finish on such a hard surface, so I just waxed the boat afterwards with a marine-type synthetic polymer sealant (Jotun Hard Wax). Heard a lot of good experiences with Soft99's Fusso Coat on both cars and boats. Probably my next "wax" for both boat and car.
@@RojohII yes gelcoat. Never heard of Jotun or Soft99. I do boats and rv's once and a while and have a solid system but always interested what others use. I ordered the rupes cut/finish pad. I use strake yacht care products for gelcoat. I highly recommend them.
you are one hell of a detailer bro. i subbed to the channel right after first video
i can learn a lot from you. keep up the good work. i'll check some of previous videos fromm the channel
Thanks man! I appreciate your support
Great video man. Thank you.
Thank you, your welcome!
Thank you for the info. I'm looking to buy a Rupes polisher.
Thank you just came across this great stuff
Thank you man!
Came out looking nice. I thought I saw some holograms when you finished wiping off the lower hood on the passenger side. How can that be avoided?
Holograms are avoided by proper arm speed and keeping the pad parallel to the surface. With more aggressive pads and compounds holograms aren’t really avoidable. But with a finishing polish and a foam pad, even with a rotary holograms can be avoided using the above technique. Move slower though when finishing with foam.
@@TurnerMobileDetailing thank you for the tips. I love using my rotary but hate seeing the holograms. I just did my friend’s Audi,black of course. lol I found the magic combo towards the end but now I know. Keep up the great work.
How does Rupes rotary compound compare to McGuires Mirror glaze compound in your opinion?
@@geoffadam4475 I used megs polishing products for a while a while back. In my opinion they dust way too much. Rupes liquids dust much less, especially when used for the proper cycle time. Plus Rupes color codes all their liquids and pads making it much easier to decide what product to use in what situation. Meguiars has so many different correction liquids it gets confusing real fast.
I heard black and was like OHHH LAWD 😂
Curious what the temp (hottest) when you were working with this tesla?
I believe it was about 80 degrees and sunny that day
Hey first, thanks for your videos they help me alot with some situations.
I want ask you for video on how to clean (without damage or marring) polish dusting (im from israel in the summer times verry strong sun and dry air, and almost no sun so i have to deal with alot of dusting.
Untill now i use menzarna polish and some tell me better to work with coch chemie (sorry for my mistakes my english is not the best) i will like you to make video on this topic love from israel❤️
Hello! I can see what I can do to get a video out like that. We’re heading into winter here so I might have to wait until spring or summer to make it. But dusting is a very common but preventable problem. The best way to clean polish dust is to prevent it. If you’re getting a lot of dust, first make sure your not using to much product. Check the manufacturers recommendations on how much to use in how large an area, and make sure you don’t work it too long. That last one is important because when you work a polish too long it dries out and turns to dust. If you still have dusting problems after all that then you probably need to change products. I love the Rupes system. Use the liquids with the recommended pads for the most part, and use the correct amount and the correct area size and working time, and I get little to no dust. Of course there’s always going to be a tiny bit especially in door cracks and body panel cracks, but an air compressor or soft towel easily and safely takes care of it. Rupes has a lot of info on their TH-cam channel on their products. You can also check out my video from a few months ago on the Rupes training class I took, very informative!
Bro that pad you use can combine to other compound im planning to change pad same you use that's nice because our campany using polytop foam pad work is good but cost time to work i hope you answer my question tnx you
If I understand you correctly, yes you can use other liquids with this pad, but Rupes designs their liquids and pads to work together and they work great together! Rupes does make foam rotary pads if you prefers foam.
@@TurnerMobileDetailing bro for your experience which is easy remove scratches or swirl foarm pad or wool pad may target is quicker remove scratches and like one time polish any suggestions give me because since im came in my company they use that polytop brand works is good but need time not same in your video less time specialy in black color long time i remove
Just subbed! I'd love to connect! Loving your paint correction videos 🦆