MODEL HIT & MISS ENGINE for 2024 - MUSA HM-01 - Review OUTSTANDING How far they've come!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 มิ.ย. 2024
- PART TWO - TWEAKS & SLOW • 2024 Hit & Miss model ...
0:00 2024 MUSA Hit and Miss Intro - From CAD to Engine Arrived!
0:49 Unboxing & contents
3:11 First Impressions
5:45 Assembly
11:51 Optional Tweaks
15:47 ENGINE RUNS!!**** First Run
21:53 CONCLUSIONS
www.stirlingkit.com/collectio... OR enginediy.com
Chinese commercial desktop engine models have come so far in the last 6 years. To begin with, the model engineers couldn't get manufacturers to work to fine enough tolerances. Bearings and compression were commonly rubbish, but enthusiasts like me could do the necessary to tweak and patch up...
Fast forward to the end of 2023 and there are several big names in the Chinese desktop model engineering scene::
Microcosm, with literally dozens of very successful model, who single-handedly started the market by producing the first Chinese cheap hit and miss engine model. Microcosm is unmatched in the variety of models it produces and has always worked to improve quality.
Enjomor is another big manufacturer of steam, hot air and vacuum engines who also does a well-known hit and miss, and now multicylinder IC engines. Cison build semi scale v-twins, 4, 6 and 8 cylinder engines.
MUSA ENGINEWORKS have been making a name for themselves in repro classic model engineering engines, but recently reached out to their market as to what we customers would like in a high-quality hit and miss model of similar size (7 cc) to the successful Microcosm and Enjomor mini engines.
The first run of the MUSA engine is completed and my individually numbered example just came. Is it worth the wait?
Yes. Is it a bargain? I reckon so.
Huge thanks to Musa +Stirlingkit!
ABOUT MUSA from Enginediy.com
"Founded in 2015, MUSA team is mainly engaged in the manufacturing of specialized equipment. The business is R&D, production and marketing, processing: hardware products and accessories, general mechanical equipment and accessories, sheet metal, household appliances, automotive parts, electronic products and accessories, molds and accessories, hand plate models, pneumatic components, electromechanical products.
MUSA as a precision machinery processing manufacturers, with more than 20 years of experience in production and processing, now has dozens of imported professional production equipment, such as a variety of precision CNC machine tools, casting mold equipment, and equipped with a variety of professional testing equipment, to ensure product quality.
In addition, MUSA has built a team of dozens of professional skilled workers with high-end production and processing technology, specializing in the production of all kinds of metal products. MUSA provides high-quality, high-precision customized mechanical parts and assemblies for global customers. We have an excellent reputation in the industry and are known for providing superior products and excellent customer service.
One of our key strengths is our extensive experience and technical expertise in precision machining. Our team of experienced engineers with our highly specialized machining equipment are capable of meeting a wide range of complex machining needs. We have use state-of-the-art machining equipment and processes so we achieve extremely high precision and product consistency.
At the end of 2021, MUSA released a brand new flathead single-cylinder gasoline engine model based on the "Whippet" engine designed by Edgar T. Westbury (ETW) in the 1960s. Model engine enthusiasts were impressed by the quality of the workmanship and performance of the engine. In response to this strong demand, in March 2023, we brought back an earlier version of the ETW, based on an evolved version of the 1940s "Kittiwake" engine, redefined as the "RED DOG" engine.
MUSA spent 4 months to develop and design this new H&M engine model "HM-01". We have selected the best materials and exquisite craftsmanship, which will guarantee the reliability and durability of the engine. Product design: Transparent adjustable flow main oil cup, new style carburetor, with loud exhaust pipe. Two large flywheels with good weight distribution, flywheel with sprung ball weights split wide-face pulley for power output. We added the rarely seen "speed lever'. it can be run at slow speed at continuous firing speed for power output. The body uses Ferrari red paint using electrophoretic surface treatment process, the main components (body body, flywheel, connecting rods, etc.) made of stainless steel 304 casting, all assembly surfaces using CNC machining and become a high-carbon steel hardened one-piece crankshaft. This makes it not only a playable engine model, but also a highly collectible mechanical craft.
In recent years, the EngineDIY team & MUSA factory have released two single-cylinder engines in tribute to the classics "Whippet" and "Red Dog", which have impressed many model engine enthusiasts. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![โอ้มายก๊อด! ไม่ถึงชั่วโมงหมดเป็นแสน 😅 [cc] แดนแพทตี้ SS2 | EP.42 |](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OH2ShXfO6tA/mqdefault.jpg)
PART TWO simple tweaks, speed, INSTRUCTIONS th-cam.com/video/qYpkNPi3itc/w-d-xo.html
THANKYOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!Your praise is the greatest affirmation of our work
Hey Guys! Great job - please pass our feedback to MUSA!! I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet
充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe they can read that hear
My HM-01 Kit arrived yesterday and I can't wait to open it and put it together. Yours looks great and I think they were worth the wait!
Hello Henry! Good for you! I didn't even enquire with Stirlingkit about the lateness as I understood they were Getting it Right, Well worth the wait for us Hit & Miss lovers
Yes there are chapters on this vid in case you just want to see it running. But if you want to follow thru the tips in the build that might be helpful...anyway, I love this engine and I think its a serious achievement for MUSA. I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet
充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe they can read that here.
Comments, questions?
While I remember...details matter! the MUSA pulse igniter electronics are encapsulated in resin "like a proper engine", the first I have seen on a Chinese desktop engine. Love the detail of a glass-ended horizontal brass fuel tank. Function drip oiler...use of steel in high wear places...chamfering and colouring of the wooden base... :))
yes. thank you. this time we make many details on the engines. hope the people who receive can feel the improvement we have made
Great video, great engine. I've never heard you so happy about an engine.
Hey Dave! While I am happy with any engine that I can tweak up there is no doubt that this has been intelligently and painstakingly designed and with respecting the traditions of hit & miss engines. The engineering and construction materials and tolerances... I want to send the designer and manufacturer a bouquet
充分尊重你的出色工作，印象深刻 [full respect for your amazing work, so impressed] maybe MUSA can read that here
I just ordered one of these with all the accessories. Great video
Great Video. Thank you
Thx for the feedback and glad you enjoyed it!
Outstanding little engine, run's beautifully, Great Job
Thanks for stopping by and commenting Daniel! Are you considering getting one?
Good Day Sir no I will have to make due with my enjimor, I have her running beautifully , Take Care@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES
Thomas, Hope this finds you a happy man. With all these great videos, how could you being anything else. Thomas, I have a very specific question please. Is there a video or written explanation on finding TDC on these engines?
Hi again Jerry, What a sweet sentiment. Yeah, with a smart successful wife, two great kids, three cats, two chickens, and one dead goldfish, I am a happy man.
TDC is easy because the crank is level all the way in, but you're asking how to get the ignition as close to TDC as possible or just after, which is what you want to do. That's not easy. You have two brass leaf contacts 4:38 that press together just as the valve rod goes right, into the cam, all the way, (also releasing and therefore closing the exhaust valve all the way) allowing ignition. The left leaf conact is covered in black plastic heatshirk sheathing except for the contact point halfway down. You need this conact point moved a bit. My result is here th-cam.com/video/qYpkNPi3itc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=yO18J9mk2P8HqIkH&t=354 I should tidy the top plastic where the pliers greipped it...notice slight bend?
Clean the contacts if they're oily.
Take out the spark plug and tape it to the engine metal so it sparks when you rotate the engine. Note the piston is all the way in and conrod level at tdc by eye, or you can feel it with a toothpick in the sparkplug hole. Turn on ignition.
Rotate slowly, where's that spark? For best running at slow speed it needs to be delayed to or after tdc. The leftmost ignition leaf contact touches the right one in the middle. So, solution is to bend it so that the middle strikes the right one slightly later, altough the top is being pushed by the valve rod at the same place.
So, instead of going up straight, the left leaf contact needs to bend very slightly to the left (delaying contact), then back to the right as it reaches to top where it's pushed by the rod. Turn off ignition.
Get your pliers and bend the left contact leaf leftwards away from the right one 5-10 degrees at the bottom. Then firmly grab the leaf with end of your pliers halfway down the leaf, push the nose of the pliers left while angling the top of the leaf rightward, a twist. You're trying to put a bend in it.
You want the top where it was and the middle a millimeter or two left of where it was.
Turn on ignition and check your progress. If you get no spark you've put too much bend in the leaf and they're not contacting. Rinse and repeat
It's a fiddly task but a must-do one
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Hi Thomas, I could not remember if I thanked you the detail on TDC you sent. MUCH appreciated. Thank you so much!!!!!
Happy to give my opinion!
Wow. Beautiful engine. Nice job
👍
The thing holding the flywheel on is called a "Taper lock" and is a very common part even today.
Glad you know what I was referring to. I should have been an engineer instead of a PCGuru! Thanks for the info!
I purchased the kit version MUSA HM-01 #23190. It runs great.
iI bet you enjoyed wrangling it together. Any mods or tips?
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES I shortened the spring a little from the factory one for a faster return and it was trial and error from there on the fuel settings. I've been tinkering with the L6-210 trying to get the ignition situated. It runs OK, but the timing perimeters are a little off. I think I have the MUSA HM-01 tweaked where I like it for now. I may try the tweak you did with the cam follower.
The ignition is fiddly. That leaf spring needs to be bent just right for as close to TDC firing as possible...my opinion!
Good!!!!!Very nice!!
Thanks for popping by and commenting!
Mine finally arrived after a bit of a wait due to end of the year!! I am stoked with this! I had no problems assembling this and everything fitted together so well. It fired right up no problem. The quality of the kit is really very good. I am wondering though how you keep the rod big end bearing well lubricated? I am adding some engine oil to both sides of the rod bearing by applying the oil between it and the crank lobes whenever the engine is stopped. There does not seem to be any better way of doing this? Other than that, the engine has no issue receiving oil and it runs really nice.
Yep that's exactly what I do re lubing big end. Seems fine to do that way on all these models, though the run time can be 2 hours with the right tweaks so I'd do every half hour.
I'm so glad to hear your experience has been positive all though. Well done! a KEEPER :)
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks for confirming that. Glad to hear that works fine. Yes it has been a great experience so far. I have mounted everything properly - ignition box, battery and added a toggle on the back of the battery box.
Wired everything under the engine in a similar way you did and it looks very clean. Now I will play with the governor spring and look at changing the push rod spring to make it run a lot slower.
质量 well done MUSA
😄 thx
I'm busy making instructions. Sorry, I'll send you one later.
Kind of you! Well done for your support!
Thats a very nice made engine. Where do you order it from? Pictures i see has different oil cap on the piston place. But maybe its from different places ??
I have added the ordering page in the description. Both Stirlingkit .com and Enginediy .com sell this and will support and help you. Look for their discounts
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thanks for reply. Just ordered it. Looking forward to it. Good videos you make.
No problem. Best wishes and all success to you!!@@morten1975dk
Great video!....Please keep us posted if you find a way to slow it down even more?
Can you convince Steam 212 to have a go at working his magic on HM-01?
I'm in two minds about slowing it down more, I'll have a look for a weaker spring. It needed to run in before I tried that anyway...Mr 212's videos have become a little less common lately...yeah I'd love to see what Matt would come up with too. He's pretty amazing
How long did you run in your other china made engines before you felt they where properly run in?
Some of the guys on tiny engine forum noticed above average "gear whine" from the HM-01 on the factory first fire up....yours seems sugnificantly more quiet as far as gear whine.
Ideas guys have had to slow it down:
-polish gear teeth with toothpaste, its an old slot-car trick, most toothpaste contains Very Fine abrasive, you put the toothpaste on dry gears and it stays on like grease, your run the engine for an hour or 2 and rinse away the toothpaste with warm water, then aply your favorite gear lube, this method is hard to "over-do" as the abrasive in toothpaste is so fine.
-someone said a slightly softer intake valve spring may help engine coast longer?
- I have successfully made a softer governor spring with a Very Weak rubber band, most are to strong or wrong size...i got the weakest i could find and cut it to make a single strand! I tied a loop at each end like this O-----------O
Then try different lengths to see how slow you can get, when you find the slowest it will run, feel the strength of that rubber band and try to match it with a hand wound guitar string spring.
Just some idea's, maybe one will spark your own experiments?
In my experience getting the valve lift within detent coast is the trick to longer coast. Then, yes, a weaker spring.
He he, we all have different ideas...I used old teflon grease on the cogs. They whine because they're meshing really well. It would be a major hassle toothbrushing those gear teeth right? Messy....even if you don't use a brush just toothpaste & run it.
Those gears are brass they will quiet down@@benjaminkroes9785
The other engines needed tightening up the con rod ends, changing springs, the original silver M90 needed bronze bushing and the useless needle bearings cast back into the hell from whence they came. So that's a few runs. M90 I ran every day for a month!@@benjaminkroes9785
Hello Thomas, Hope you doing well. I have enjoyed your TH-cam videos so much. Please keep up the super work sir. I ordered my Retro HM 01 today. Can you advise me on oils, grease, etc and where to utilize them? Thank you, Jerry
Oil is standard 30 SAE small engine oil from hardware store. Oil everything that moves. Grease is optional for the gears if you want less whine, but that will reduce in a few runs. For the valve stems, particularly the atmospheric intake valve, I use a drop of sewing machine oil as SAE30 can stiffen so it sticks this valve next time you run it. I use spray carburettor cleaner to wash oil drios from the ignition points under the latch parts, when the ignition gets oily
Hi Thomas :)
Great video! And thanks!! I just got my engine. I didn't have to drill out the guide for the valve rod, but I did have to de-burr it. I have my engine assembled ready to go but before I do, can you tell me what kind of oil your using in the cylinder oiler to lubricate the cylinder? I used sewing machine oil during it's assembly as many of my other models require, but from what I'm seeing here, that might be too light for running it. With sewing machine oil, I do get some blow back past the piston just turning it over, and the intake valve seems to barely open. Thank-you. :)
Stirling engines need low friction but have low operating pressures. I use WD40. But for IC engines I used to use synthetic car oil or I now think 30SAE Small Engine Oil is probably perfect as I hear. The tolerances are not great so thicker oil works.
Than-you so much :) That's what I'll use.
Upon deeper inspection. I found most of the loss of compression was at the spark plug. @@ThomasPCGuruENGINES
Thanks again for answering my previous question, and for all the tips you posted in your videos featuring this engine.
I did the mods you suggested and ran it for the first time today...and WOW!!!! She ran perfectly right away no further mods needed!!! Thank-you again! I took some quick videos and will post them on my channel in a day or so. @PCGuruENGINES
Superb. I look forward to watching
Great review - so you think you could run anything off of it?
Absolutely, this engine is made well enough to run. I've seen the Microcosm M90 run tracked rc vehicles and fans, generators and waterpumps, and that engine's construction is much softer.
This one has some actual quality attached to it. Load test it let's see what it can do.
I'm really surrprised under reasonable load the hit and miss tightens up and it pulls hard. However I will not be optimising it for continuous running
Hello, I was wondering what size battery you are using in that small box? Thank you.
I am using 3 1.5v AA batteries. couldn't quite fit 4xAA but I just realized 4xAAA would be perfect and fit. 3x1.5v is too little really, others report 6v is great
My HM-01 has arrived just wondering if you ever use AAA bats for power as we don't seem to run any of the engines for long, less space required.
AAA will be fine as there is a good long time between sparks on this model!
Hello Thomas, hope you are doing well sir. I am getting a Retrol Steam Engine, the one that has a cylinder that I believe needs a drop or so of a specific type of oil. Can you help with what I should use?
It’s the steam engine with the beam and cylinder and piston. Thanks. Jerry
Hey Jerry, welcome to the comments man! that engine will happily run with any oil but 30sae "small engine oil" may be the closest you can get to proper steam oil. Steam engine oil is very thick and goopy and needs heat to reach the right viscosity. Smells mighty fine too
There are hobbyists supplying real steam oil, or visit your local full-size steam preservation joint with a pill bottle and beg. Seeing as they have it by the 44 gallon drum they'll probably be sympathetic, tell 'em I sent ya
Hello Thomas, hope you are doing well sir. I am getting a Retrol Steam Engine, the one that has a cylinder that I believe needs a drop or so of a specific type of oil. Can you help with what I should use?
Model number is the Retrol HM 1
Hey Jerry, welcome to the comments man! that engine will happily run with any oil but 30sae "small engine oil" may be the closest you can get to proper steam oil. Steam engine oil is very thick and goopy and needs heat to reach the right viscosity. Smells mighty fine too
There are hobbyists supplying real steam oil, or visit your local full-size steam preservation joint with a pill bottle and beg. Seeing as they have it by the 44 gallon drum they'll probably be sympathetic, tell 'em I sent ya
Hi. I'm in the UK and thinking of getting one. Could you please tell me what other parts are needed and if possible a link? Wooden frame and ignition module. Seems they are not included in the listing. Thanks!
I cant link from comments. Sorry late reply...enginediy website and stirlingkit. Yes get the kits, no extra parts needed
do they emit the power to drive a belt on an alternator of sorts?
Absolutely, particularly with the original governor spring. It's a healthy 6-7cc engine, although slow compared to nitro or two stroke. There are suitable dynamos available incl scale types
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thank you so much for replying. I appreciate that.
Hello Thomas, I have ordered and recieved the HM-01 engine. I bought the RTR version form Amazon it was missing the wooden frame and ignition set with spark plug. My question is are those items ordered separately or did they come with your RTR package? Thanks very much, Jon.
They are extras, John. I expect you are disappointed in the marketing of what you bought...I got mine from Enginediy dot com, the base frame, ignition set and box, and particularly fuel tank are outstanding and worth buying
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks, yep the RTR part was quite misleading. Nice engine though.
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Hello Thomas, I was curious what fuel you are using and the oil used and the mix ratio. Thanks so much, Jon
Just saw this Jon. The engine is not fussy. This could use low oil ratio but I run about 1to 25 to 1 to 40
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES thanks Thomas. I got mine running using zippo lighter fluid with just a few drops of marvel mystery oil. I'm still waiting on my wood base and fuel tank. I absolutely love the engine so far. I've got mine running nice and slow. Have a great day!!
Hi Thomas, after watching your channel for the first time a few months back i now own 3 engines wating on my 4th engine that is the HM-01. My question for you is what did you do on your ET1 engine to fix all that play in main bearing ??? any advice would be much appreciated cheers Wayne.
I was luck to have collected some bronze bushes in the past - you can see some in the banner of my TH-cam page, on the left, that I used in my big "junk" hot air engine. 8mm inside diameter matched. That flange was in the way so stuck the bronze bushes in a bolt, put the bolt in the drillpress, used a file to remove the flange as I don't have a lathe.
Getting an engineeer with a lathe to make brass or bronze bushings is the solution. You may be able to find brass tube of the right dimensions and just ut bits off
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks for your reply Thomas i do have a friend who has CNC lathe and mill he has a few milling machines actually he is a few hours away but next time i'm in his area i will ask him to help out, just thought you may have had a go to website for brass bushings ?
Cheers Wayne.
Nope. Good idea though... the measurement is inside dia x outside dia x length. Inside is 8mm I think; lets say it measures 8x10x10 just google search 8x10x10 bronze bush or brass bush. I get results at crazy low prices, good materials too. In reality these should be split for future tightening but no need. They'll be way better than those goofy rollers :) on ET1
Are they still taking orders on these? And does anyone know the latest wait time?
Sure I think wait time zero as they have stock. stirlingkit or enginediy
How would you rate the longevity of this engine? And, not including batteries, what would likely be the first part to fail? Thank you.
Mmmmm...even the brass-built engines of these engines will last the expected lifetime of use of just a few hours.
The original hit and miss, the microcosm M90 wore the badly fitting main roller bearings in 1-2 runs, then the big and small end bearings. But all those can be fixed, and I have run mine every day for two months and it no longer appears to wear. This engine is made from steel castings with fitting bearings and much better machining tolerances. Cylinder sleeve is stainless and won't rust from water.
From what I've seen the only wear will be the detent lever pin riding in the mainshaft slot, and only then in unlubed or running for long period with the "CONTINUOUS" lever interrupting the detent process, because this means the slots pushes hard on the pin due to speed.
So...I think this engine can last "forever". Theoretically the piston ring can wear out but in these engines, they run cool. I've never worn one out.
First part to fail maybe ignition but again, this engine's ignition is properly encased in resin which healps oil & heat management and longevity. If original hit & miss engines can last 110 abusive years with their crap old metals tech, this can last forever
@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Thanks so much for such a wonderfully detailed reply to my question about engine longevity. This engine is going on my Christmas wish list since it is built to last.
My pleasure
Rather pissed off that you get yours with the trolley while I'm still waiting for mine tbh. I found the oiler let's the oil through too quickly despite being at full adjustment. So need to find a way of modifying that
Mine did that at first but not now. You didn't get your trolley/base? You did buy it right?
@@ThomasPCGuruENGINES Yes the trolley etc was part of the preorder and it included the electronic ignition . Everything except the trolley base fuel tank etc arrived in my shipment. Mine was disassembled so I assembled the engine. Had to shim the main cap bearings otherwise upon tightening it would lock up the crank. You might be interested to know the crank has proper conrod shells like a car engine etc. Those fitted ok. We're slightly stuff to begin with but freed up not long after
is that a kiwi accent i hear?
Mate! It sure is.
been thinking of buying a few of these in different types and styles, in just an hour south of the biggest south island city
If you have the money, you might find them fun.