I love seeing how you guys tabbed the dowel pin! I haven't messed with that in years. Tabbing it like you did is a proven and very bullet proof fix. If I remember right, later generation gear cases had a stepped hole for the dowel pin which provided positive retainment. Did you also loc-tite the case bolts? You're videos are awesome and I love the detail. Thanks again!
Seen a lot of issues lately first hand with friends 12v head gaskets failing with new heads, fresh machined block and heads etc.. my 2 cents is first fire up run it to operating temp, and do a HOT retorque on the studs and reset lash to insure it’s fully seated and won’t leak, reccomend powerdrivens high zinc 15w40 for oil as well. Good video love the build and that tan is going to look good in the bay
Thanks for taking us along for the rebuild. Not Kayde’s first rodeo for sure. Sorry if I missed it in the past videos but what is Kayde’s background?Wouldn’t surprise me if you said diesel mechanic or 12 valve wizard.
@@decentgarage The one difference with my setup is the stainless exhaust manifold. It seems to expand and contract differently. Thus, manifold bold coming loose.
Tim, I thought it was a requirement to wear the official Decent Garage footwear while working in the shop? Hope you have your helper a pair, he’s a handy guy!
No, Kayde actually had some that he offered to give me but I want to draw the line on some things to keep this a somewhat budget build so others can follow this recipe.
I was told if tou don't run a fuel plate but run a mack rack plug there's a great chance of the rack hanging and making it runaway. Not sure if it's true but might want to look into it.
The rack is not going to move any farther than the adc foot allows..with a better spring and proper adjustments alot of that is eliminated. It could possibly happen but with what fueling the truck will have its not going to bottom out that spring ...if it is too smoke and cannot be controlled with the one in it ..you have option 2 pit that even stiffer spring in .
Hey there Tim have you ever replaced the transfer case mounts on the OG crew cab? If so do you have a supplier, part number or contact number/info that you could pass along to me? Thanks man love ALLL the videos keep em coming
Hey guy why you were there you should’ve put the beehive Val Springs in there if you go online and watch a video of what happens with valve Springs the beehive Valsprings eliminate a huge amount of harmonics in the valve train it really helps out but anyway yeah I’m a firm believer in stuff like that also he should’ve whipped out the old car by da rotary files are burrs people call them and knocked a little bit of material out of the balls under the valves takeoff beehive and work the exhaust ports over a lot of power there all right but he did a beautiful job this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell Pennsylvania
The behave springs are great ..alot of them have too heavy of seat psi for a daily driver . Also they are not worth the cost with a truck spinning less the 4k rpm . Spend the coin else where unless you plan on racing or living in the sky for rpms
Make sure to use promo code "decentgarage" at Diesel Auto Power for 10% off anything I've used in this build. Build list is in the video description 👍
Your short bed truck is cool but I’m really looking forward to this build since I’m a long bed fan.
It's going to be an awesome truck when it's done for sure!
Glad to see Hamilton parts being used. They are from my home town here in Texas Zack is the cummins genius
Yeah I can't wait to run this engine. About ready to throw it in the truck
I love seeing how you guys tabbed the dowel pin! I haven't messed with that in years. Tabbing it like you did is a proven and very bullet proof fix. If I remember right, later generation gear cases had a stepped hole for the dowel pin which provided positive retainment.
Did you also loc-tite the case bolts?
You're videos are awesome and I love the detail. Thanks again!
Thanks! Yeah we also loctited the case bolts as well. 👍
Nice build!! Hope to get my own 1st gen some day!
Keep an eye out for sure. There are still some great deals out there!
Seen a lot of issues lately first hand with friends 12v head gaskets failing with new heads, fresh machined block and heads etc.. my 2 cents is first fire up run it to operating temp, and do a HOT retorque on the studs and reset lash to insure it’s fully seated and won’t leak, reccomend powerdrivens high zinc 15w40 for oil as well. Good video love the build and that tan is going to look good in the bay
That's the plan. I didn't buy PDD's high zinc oil but i did buy zinc additive to add to the oil.
Should do a video of the hydroboost swap soon
It's on the list!
Great work guys such a clean look 👍🏻 and yes DAP has a great service !!
Thanks again Mike!
Awesome my friend!!! Coming together!!!
Thanks guys!
Thanks for taking us along for the rebuild. Not Kayde’s first rodeo for sure. Sorry if I missed it in the past videos but what is Kayde’s background?Wouldn’t surprise me if you said diesel mechanic or 12 valve wizard.
He is a operator for heavy machinery in a mine
As always Tim another Great video ! Congrats on a real nice motor build. It'll be a nice power plant for Larry. 👍
Thanks Ron!
I will only use the Stage 8 locking manifold bolts on the exhaust manifold. I kept having studs getting loose and causing exhaust leaks.
Interesting 🤔
@@decentgarage The one difference with my setup is the stainless exhaust manifold. It seems to expand and contract differently. Thus, manifold bold coming loose.
@@mutantryeff oh yeah that makes sense for sure!
Can’t wait to hear it run!
Me too!
Did you use OEM valves in the head, or bigger ones? What power are you looking to make with the truck?
Kayde, is a great help, que Dios lo vendiga por toda su bondad
Yep it was awesome to have his help!
Thanks guys looking good david
Thanks!
Thanks good like
How much did they take off the head? Cylinder protrusion? Stock cam?
Need a bench vise
I finally got one! It's amazing to finally have one!
Tim, I thought it was a requirement to wear the official Decent Garage footwear while working in the shop? Hope you have your helper a pair, he’s a handy guy!
Haha that conversation did occur 🤣
Really not much to these engines eh! Great work guys.
Yeah, it wasn't too bad at all
Are you going to be changing/uprating the delivery valves in the P-pump?
No, Kayde actually had some that he offered to give me but I want to draw the line on some things to keep this a somewhat budget build so others can follow this recipe.
Good call
Can always i stall them down the track if/when needed.
@@matui6983 yep exactly
Hello, where can I buy the handle kit that you installed on the p.pum?
I was told if tou don't run a fuel plate but run a mack rack plug there's a great chance of the rack hanging and making it runaway. Not sure if it's true but might want to look into it.
I've not heard or read anything along those lines. Especially with the upgraded AFC spring i don't see that being possible 🤔
The rack is not going to move any farther than the adc foot allows..with a better spring and proper adjustments alot of that is eliminated. It could possibly happen but with what fueling the truck will have its not going to bottom out that spring ...if it is too smoke and cannot be controlled with the one in it ..you have option 2 pit that even stiffer spring in .
Good to know.
👍🏻
Thanks Jay!
Hey there Tim have you ever replaced the transfer case mounts on the OG crew cab? If so do you have a supplier, part number or contact number/info that you could pass along to me? Thanks man love ALLL the videos keep em coming
What do you mean by the transfer case mounts? Like the bushing in the tcase shift lever?
@@decentgarage Thanks for reply Tim, its the rubber/eurethane mounts that the actual T-case sits on. Any ideas?
@@markroybal8958 as far as I'm aware there are no mounts for the tcase. Message me some pics on IG or facebook
I tried to buy headstuds with the promo code but it did not work?
Just now? The promo code finally went live this afternoon so try it again or just give them a call and ask for Lenny
Hey guy why you were there you should’ve put the beehive Val Springs in there if you go online and watch a video of what happens with valve Springs the beehive Valsprings eliminate a huge amount of harmonics in the valve train it really helps out but anyway yeah I’m a firm believer in stuff like that also he should’ve whipped out the old car by da rotary files are burrs people call them and knocked a little bit of material out of the balls under the valves takeoff beehive and work the exhaust ports over a lot of power there all right but he did a beautiful job this is six in a row jim From Kennerdell Pennsylvania
I'll check those out for sure
The behave springs are great ..alot of them have too heavy of seat psi for a daily driver . Also they are not worth the cost with a truck spinning less the 4k rpm . Spend the coin else where unless you plan on racing or living in the sky for rpms
👍🏻