Super helpful, thank you! We moved to a house with a bit more space so I'm trying my hand at more veggie gardening for the first time. Videos like these help so much!
As my plant grows I continue to carefully remove what I call interrupting suckers and leaves because if the Bush gets too matted it can't breathe. Your plant's require air circulation and sunlight. Allowing it to sprawl will lead to problems. Also remove extra tomatoes. Too many will lead to problems like whole clusters breaking the stem, spots between them and small tomatoes. Those problem suckers grow in undesirable locations that cause matting conditions. Thinning leaf structure allows for sunlight and airflow to touch new suckers thus allowing a more balanced and healthy plant. Your determinate plant will sucker itself to death and will require more nutrients. Think about those bad, rotted, damaged tomatoes that you can't see until you harvest. I get them removed as soon as I see the problem and you can see if you have any horned tomato worms. I get a healthy robust plant full of big juicy tomatoes from thinning as it grows. I use wire mesh cages to keep my plant's growing to the sky. 8 to 10 feet high easy with pounds of tomatoes.
I was told to remove all the suckers and think I messed up my romas. They have leaf curl. I thought it was from the 2 week downpour we had. They still have fruit and look ok. I removed the dead looking leaves. Should I just leave them be for a few weeks? I've never had determinate tomatoes. Oh gosh I hope they're ok.
I don't prune my determinants and really dont have that much problem. I will admit that removing the lower ones will help with air flow, but it doesn't really need much. And I don't seem to get small tomatoes.
How many lower stems should you remove on determinate tomatoes BEFORE planting in ground? Is it the same as indeterminates, or less?? There are so many pruning videos at this stage but no videos on removing lower stems on determine tomatoes before planting. 🥺
No need to remove stems prior to planting on either type of tomatoes. Just best to plant the tomato plants very deep, so that most of the stem up to the first true leaves is buried.
Many suggest removing limbs that are closer than 6" from the ground to reduce diseases. Does the black cloth protect the plants enough so that is not necessary? Thanks.
Each sucker will turn into a fruit producing branch, so you leave some of them to increase your harvest. With the bush (determinate) varieties there's less pruning involved than with the vine (indeterminate) varieties. For the indeterminate varieties it's best to leave 2-3 suckers to develop into fruit producing branches, and then keep removing all the other suckers as the plant continues to grow.
Those suckers will produce flowers and fruit so they are left. The number of suckers that are allowed to stay on the plant depends on the cultivar, but it all goes back to trying to balance the number of flowers to maintain good fruit size by removing some of the suckers.
Nice demonstration, but......damn, soil to cry over. Tons of erosion, this soil doesn't even have 0.5% organic matter in it, let alone life. Even the weeds are barely "thriving".
Spent more time telling us about herself than summing up the important points at the end or the beginning. That’s not how to teach. I don’t have a firm basis to understand and I’ve wasted more time explaining this. Hope you find my honest criticism constructive....
Super helpful, thank you! We moved to a house with a bit more space so I'm trying my hand at more veggie gardening for the first time. Videos like these help so much!
Great instruction and demonstration. We're pruning our Amelias today, a bit late too
Do you have the follow up video showing pruned vs unpruned as you mentioned?
Thought bush or determinate type of tomato plant suppose to keep the sockers for max production.
I always heard that suckers should be left on bush varieties!
The bottom ones are more prone to rot/disease, so it's acceptable as she stated.
Wonderful instructions. Thank u!
Glad it was helpful!
Doesnt the black plastic make it very hot for the plant soil underneath? I assume you do that for weeds control and less evaporation.? Just curious.
is that a green bean right next to the tomatoe?
Do you continue pruning the plant through the season or just those suckers suggested below the first flower cluster?
Just the first suckers at the base on the plant the reminder will be left on determinate type tomatoes.
As my plant grows I continue to carefully remove what I call interrupting suckers and leaves because if the Bush gets too matted it can't breathe. Your plant's require air circulation and sunlight. Allowing it to sprawl will lead to problems. Also remove extra tomatoes. Too many will lead to problems like whole clusters breaking the stem, spots between them and small tomatoes. Those problem suckers grow in undesirable locations that cause matting conditions. Thinning leaf structure allows for sunlight and airflow to touch new suckers thus allowing a more balanced and healthy plant. Your determinate plant will sucker itself to death and will require more nutrients. Think about those bad, rotted, damaged tomatoes that you can't see until you harvest. I get them removed as soon as I see the problem and you can see if you have any horned tomato worms. I get a healthy robust plant full of big juicy tomatoes from thinning as it grows. I use wire mesh cages to keep my plant's growing to the sky. 8 to 10 feet high easy with pounds of tomatoes.
I was told to remove all the suckers and think I messed up my romas. They have leaf curl. I thought it was from the 2 week downpour we had. They still have fruit and look ok. I removed the dead looking leaves. Should I just leave them be for a few weeks? I've never had determinate tomatoes. Oh gosh I hope they're ok.
i am curious about how you water the plants underneath that nylon sheet? drip?
I don't prune my determinants and really dont have that much problem. I will admit that removing the lower ones will help with air flow, but it doesn't really need much. And I don't seem to get small tomatoes.
How many lower stems should you remove on determinate tomatoes BEFORE planting in ground? Is it the same as indeterminates, or less?? There are so many pruning videos at this stage but no videos on removing lower stems on determine tomatoes before planting. 🥺
No need to remove stems prior to planting on either type of tomatoes. Just best to plant the tomato plants very deep, so that most of the stem up to the first true leaves is buried.
But WHY leave two suckers below first flower set? What's the reasoning behind two vs three vs none?
Thanks for the info, but I got the sense of a number of apologies; not staking, sucker removal too late, etc.
What is the use of the black cover.?
Many suggest removing limbs that are closer than 6" from the ground to reduce diseases. Does the black cloth protect the plants enough so that is not necessary? Thanks.
The plastic will provide some protection but there can still be some splashing from the row middles.
@@ARfruitveg Thanks.
@@ARfruitveg is there a follow up video
Suckers can be rooted for a second crop which flowers quickly.
Why leave the higher up suckers? The criteria would be useful
Each sucker will turn into a fruit producing branch, so you leave some of them to increase your harvest. With the bush (determinate) varieties there's less pruning involved than with the vine (indeterminate) varieties. For the indeterminate varieties it's best to leave 2-3 suckers to develop into fruit producing branches, and then keep removing all the other suckers as the plant continues to grow.
She said in the video
What type of tomato is a grape tomato ? Do I prune or not ?
What about the suckers above the flowers???
Suckers are actually the production stems. If you take them all out, you will have lots of leaves and no tomatoes, lol.
I accidentaly cut the first flowers of my determinate tomato, do you think I killed thé potentiel to have tomatoes ?
You should still get a few more blooms above the first ones. Removing some blooms can make the other tomatoes that are set later bigger.
What is the purpose of leaving the 2 suckers below the flower cluster?
Those suckers will produce flowers and fruit so they are left. The number of suckers that are allowed to stay on the plant depends on the cultivar, but it all goes back to trying to balance the number of flowers to maintain good fruit size by removing some of the suckers.
@@ARfruitveg Thank you
Very poor camera work. After the first sucker was removed you can't tell what's going on
hi
Great video, lovely and friendly voice, but so shrill!
Nice demonstration, but......damn, soil to cry over. Tons of erosion, this soil doesn't even have 0.5% organic matter in it, let alone life. Even the weeds are barely "thriving".
dead soil
Terrible...Way to hard to tell what your pointing to because your working with one hand and holding phone with the other...??
Your a commercial business and your tomato plants look like THAT!? Shame on you.
She's not a commercial business. She's a research horticulturalist for a university. 0:04.
@@Beckelbay Her research is to mimic a commercial grow. There for, her commercial grow looks like S%$T. Don't hurt yourself trying to figure this out.
Spent more time telling us about herself than summing up the important points at the end or the beginning.
That’s not how to teach. I don’t have a firm basis to understand and I’ve wasted more time explaining this.
Hope you find my honest criticism constructive....