You think that's the case with Kenwood specifically or are you saying that occurs in general with various brands like Pioneer as well? I would be curious to know because personally I can usually hear when this feature pushes a head unit to distortion, especially if you turn it on when you're right at the edge of clipping with head unit power only. It would be great if they all rolled off like that.
@@carstereochick not sure about kenwood then but the alpines and pioneers roll. You do have to set your setting to match your system. I’ve had different speakers with the same amp and the kickers 6x9 were set on medium loudness and the infinity kappas 6.5 set on high. So it all depends on how you set you gains but I’m able to play all the way up with no distortion. Look at any pioneer manual and it Says it even out after the volume is turned up.
Oh, gotcha! Didn’t realize you meant when used with aftermarket amp. When I usually see clients misuse it or run into trouble is when they’re just running off deck power. I will definitely look into how Pioneer does it vs Kenwood. Thanks so much for contributing!
Thanks for this 👍 I got some really useful information that I couldn't find anywhere else. I wish Kenwood published stuff like this (or at least makes it easy to find)
where to set at, if the head unit dont have LPF off function, say 50 63 80 100 125hz, is it leave at lower 50hz or pass through 125hz..... Thanks in advance ✌
You can set it all the way up at 125 hz if you plan on using your amp’s crossover. Or you can set the amp to the highest setting and then use your head unit at 80-100hz. I would do the latter.
I recently bought a Kenwood head unit and it has a new to me feature where you can pick subwoofer size. I was curious what it actually does when you select different sizes and is there a way to turn it off? Thanks
Good information! I just recently bought a kenwood kmm-x705 , very nice head unit. I have a question on that unit. The heat sink gets very hot and was wondering how hot is to hot? I know that’s why it’s there but man does it get hot! I’ve checked all my connections for loose connections and all is good. Thanks in advance!
That's a great little receiver! Yes, they do get hot. I can tell you when I remove and replace head units on our display board (which are also turned on for 8 hours a day) they get nice and toasty, but I wouldn't say it's anything that scald my skin. But I wouldn't want to keep my hand on it. It's just like whoa, that baby is nice and hot. Depending on what kind of car this is installed in, that can add to the heat factor. Some cavities are just tighter/worse at dissipating heat than others. The only other thing to consider is the speaker impedance load. These head units really are meant for 4 ohm speakers. If you're running anything less than that, it can cause the head unit to overheat. I hope that helps!
Thanks for the feedback! It’s in a 2013 Chevy Silverado, I replaced all factory speakers with fosgate 6.5 4ohm 45w rms. I had a pioneer double din before the kenwood, nothing wrong with it , just was so big as far as no room behind the dash with all the connections, interface module. Just didn’t like the fact all those wires crammed under and behind the unit. The single din definitely freed a lot of space up for all the connections. Again thank you for your feedback! Greatly appreciated!! Happy Holidays to you!!
I was going to say my Kenwood use to do that and I put a little fan back there which really helped but it was all because I had my tweeters hooked up with the 4 6×9 and was getting it way to hot so got me a 4 channel amp awesomeness since
On the Kenwood head units (I have a DDX 6706S ) with DSP For each of the 4 orders of crossover provided, are they butterworth? L-R? Bessel? Other? Also are they the "normal" version of the circuit or the linear phase version since it's in the DSP? I've been having issues when matching the 2nd order HPF on the head unit to an amp provided 2nd order LPF (unknown type, assumed Butterworth non-linear) on the sub amp that can't be disabled (JL Audio Powered Microsub+), and am suspecting different type is the issue. When I don't use the head unit's crossover, and use the mid/tweeter amp's built in 2nd order (unknown type, assumed Butterworth, non-linear) on a Kenwood KAC-M3004, the phase sounds correct Any insight would be greatly appreciated
If you use the crossover in the head unit and the crossovers on your amp, you can introduce phasing issues. Multiple crossovers can effect phase. You are best using one or the other. Since you can't turn it off on the sub amp, use the crossover on that and leave it off on the head unit. Whether you use the crossover on your 4-channel or the one on the head unit? I would try both and use whatever sounds better. Also, I would advise against using the speaker size feature as that will turn on the crossover in the DSP. The only audio features I am using in my own personal vehicle are Supreme and Bass Extension. Time Alignment is a nice feature too and we often utilize in our installations, but keep in mind it can also cause phasing issues as well.
@@carstereochick I think you misread me (easy to do :)) . For any given channel (either mid/hi or sub) I was only using one crossover per channel at a time. It was just the difference in blending between using (the HPF on the head unit OR the HPF on the amp for the mid/high ) AND the LPF on the sub amp and how it seemed to blend much better using the HPF on the amp.That was why I wondered if the head unit was using the linear phase version of the crossover vs replicating the analog version of a Butterworth 2nd order. Agreed that I have all the speaker size things off and explicitly set the crossover and/or T/A as desired (as to not have their unknown EQ tweaking added for "speaker size" as that is more difficult to tune around)
Sorry about that, but I think we ended up in the same place :) I honestly don't know what type of crossover they are using internally. Great question though for Josh Bowen.
Yeah a few ideas. First off, what are you using for a music source? Spotify or TH-cam music app on the regular (low quality/efficient) setting? Or a higher quality app like Tidal or Apple Music with lossless audio? MP3's on a thumb drive or are you using original CD's? First thing to keep in mind - garbage in/garbage out. The quality of the music you are using makes a huge difference in output, detail and bass response. Compressed audio sources like Spotify and TH-cam will sound thin/lack bass compared to the same tracks played at full resolution through a higher quality app like Tidal/Apple Music (with lossless turned on) or an original CD. Could be the quality of the products you're working with. Many manufacturers slap huge power ratings on their amps to grab your attention, but the number is essentially fantasy - "peak power". The RMS of your 2000 watt amp might only be 300-500 watts. What's the model of your amp? Could also be the quality of your power wire. If you're not using 100% oxygen free copper as well as the proper gauge power (and matching ground wire) for your amp, it's essentially like trying to suck down a big thick milkshake with a coffee stirrer straw. With the wrong gauge/quality power/ground wire, your amp could be starved for power and not able to put out what it's designed to. Could be the car it's installed in. If you're using this in a vehicle that has a stock premium amplified stereo that is speaker level, like an older BMW or Subaru with Harmon Kardon, your interior speakers are essentially getting double signal amplification. The Kenwood internal speaker amp, plus the stock premium amp. In that case use your volume offset feature for that to turn down the gain on the stock amp and level match so your sub isn't getting drowned out. There are so many things that could be going on. Something I'd have to look at and listen to, to really help you, but hopefully this gives you some ideas on what to look at.
Hi ! Really greatfull for such audio channel specific information. One major drawback….the car industry. Can you make a video explaining how the e.v market will be for audio enthusiasts ? Will it be possible to bypass audio on Toyota bz4x, Tesla and others ? They are doing everything to make it a nightmare for us. Thanks a lot !
Great idea. Luckily for a lot of newer vehicles with these types of fully integrated infotainment systems, we are seeing pre-amp adapters from companies like PAC Audio, NAV TV, Mobridge, iDatalink Maestro, etc. that allow us to intercept the audio signal from the factory head unit while it's still digital before it reaches any factory amplifier. We can then take that intercepted signal and send it to aftermarket amplifier, DSP and speakers. I haven't seen anything specific to Tesla in this arena, but I imagine Toyota will use some technology similar to what they do in their other products, so we may see something like an AP4-TY13 or similar come out for the BZ4X. I do have concerns about power draw for aftermarket amps on EV's. They all usually still have a standard 12 volt battery in them, but they're small and not really designed for the type of load an aftermarket amp can draw. There are some guys that have been brave enough and knowledgeable enough about the vehicle to tap into the real power supply on Tesla's for aftermarket accessories, but that's not something our shop would attempt. We typically only see clients looking to add things like radar detectors to these vehicles which have such a tiny power draw that they have little to no effect on the 12 volt battery. I think we're a long ways away from that anyways. EV's are such a tiny percentage of the cars we work on. Out of the thousands of cars that pass through our shop each year, maybe 10 are fully electric vehicles. Definitely seeing a lot more Hybrids. Guess what the Hybrid clients are usually buying......a remote car starter! LOL the irony.
@@carstereochick Thanks a lot, your answer is pretty important, I will definitively and other audio enthusiast will take it to account when choosing an e.v. It will be necessary to contact the part manager and check the blueprint, as I did and they are not able. I may go to an audio shop while test drive with a seller, imagine the scene ? They never will let that happen. The road of car audio excellence is full of bumps !
Hi, i recently bought a kdc-bt950dab how do i block the low frequency's (1-60hz) to my speakers at the headunit so that only my subs get that signal and not my mid range speakers (radio is set to compact car because its a small van with al wall of 4 subwoofers)
Look for HPF in the audio settings and set to the desired frequency. You may find this video helpful, it's a similar style single DIN where I go over all the settings. th-cam.com/video/2fFg2_DGHkA/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@@carstereochick found it but i set it to 150hz.. but with a tonegenerator i can still here it starting at about 55hz (not loud but its there) the higher the frequency te more as aspected. thx anyway for the reply, everything will be amplified in the next months so the full range amps can control it
Thank you! No delete function, but you can overwrite other channels by pressing and holding the preset number while you are on the station you want to set.
@@carstereochick yeah! If you can, i would like to see a comparisson between old school (around 2003) Excelon 3D-Mask units (i love those motorized face plates 😁😁😁) and newer units. Could be just reviewing the specs/showing pics/discussing features. Some of those don't have an aux input 🤣.
I don't know the exact frequency ranges Kenwood is boosting, but in general, Bass Boost is going to just boost those lower bass frequencies like 50 - 250 Hz. I could be wrong on this, but my understanding is realizer is designed more to restore frequency levels across the board that are compromised during compression. It would be helpful when listening to a compressed source like SiriusXM for example.
So I have Kenwood Excelon KDC-X305 and I can’t figure out how to tune it for the life of me had an older kenwood, alpine, and pioneer was nice an easy but this thing has like 14 options half of the are hz numbers. And the guide for it is useless. Help please lol
Doesn't matter if it goes only to 35... I barely put mines to 30 and when i do that is very loud... That's only if you have upgraded your speakers and amplifier as well to get a well balanced sound.
I have a question! Could someone explain on there head units. DDX9905S. Or newer. How to set up “time alignment”. Seems to be measured differently from home theater settings. “Great share guys!” Larry
Great question!! We should do a video just on that because the newer manuals do not explain it clearly. Pick your reference point which is usually the position of the driver's head. Then measure the distances from that reference point to each speaker. The speaker that is farthest away from you is set to 0 on the head unit. Depending on phase and application, this could be the subwoofer or it could be a rear speaker. That is the one that takes the longest to "hit" you. Then you subtract the difference between the distance of that farthest speaker and the distance of the other speakers from that reference point. That difference is the number you plug into the head unit. So for example, if the right rear speaker is the farthest away at a distance of 5 ft and the front right is 3 ft away from the reference point, you delay the front right by 2 ft. If your front left is 1.5 ft away from the reference point, you delay the front left by 3.5 ft.
I bought a work truck and had Best Buy install a new radio because I wanted Bluetooth. They recommended kenwood. I can’t for the life of me figure this radio out and the tiny instruction book is complete crap. I’m old and didn’t want gadgets or internet radio. Just a basic unit with Bluetooth. Very sorry I bought this.
What model did they sell you? Poor salespeople on their part. I’m sorry for the experience you had, but please understand that is more an error on the retailer and their customer service reps than the radio. They’re not specialists like you would find at an independent retailer. At my own shop I have conversations with clients to understand their needs and I demonstrate it so I can gauge a clients reaction. For anyone who can appreciate ease of use, I steer them towards Alpine. They have fewer bells and whistles which can make it easier to use. For those interested in some really great audio control features and who are more comfortable navigating the radio menu’s and features, Kenwood is a great fit. I recommend talking to a manager and see if someone can sit down with you and take the time to go over it OR see if they can exchange it for something easier to use. FYI all the manufacturers are including short quick start guides with the radio while the full, detailed manual is available on their website support page.
You might want to look at an Alpine CDE-172BT (CD player) or UTE-73BT (no CD player). They're both a bit more user friendly. Audio options for those models are simply bass, treble, mid, balance, fader and the display is a little easier to see in bright glare.
@@reallmccoy9043 How are you doing with the Kenwood? They are wonderful products with quality of stuff that's 3x the price. If you are having any issues still I'd be happy to walk you through them. I'll even make videos showing exactly how if need be.
Sorry to bore you! Perhaps one of my product testing videos would be more enjoyable where I actually go through all the different audio settings and show how they can effect signal output. Or maybe I'm just not your jam and that's okay too.
She does the best amongst everyone to explain and show what settings do what to our analog outputs. Take your sour ass somewhere else no one can help you here lol
A year later and this was very helpful. Thank you ma'am!!!
You're welcome! Thank you so much for your support :)
These kenwood head units are just about the most complicated device I’ve ever used but boy do they sound good
I totally agree, well said!
Thanks for that information! Try doing multiple searches to figure out some of what these settings do and was coming up short
So glad it helped!
Technically loudness rolls off as the volume goes which is something he did not mention. Just like bass roll of on a OEM radio.
You think that's the case with Kenwood specifically or are you saying that occurs in general with various brands like Pioneer as well? I would be curious to know because personally I can usually hear when this feature pushes a head unit to distortion, especially if you turn it on when you're right at the edge of clipping with head unit power only. It would be great if they all rolled off like that.
@@carstereochick not sure about kenwood then but the alpines and pioneers roll. You do have to set your setting to match your system. I’ve had different speakers with the same amp and the kickers 6x9 were set on medium loudness and the infinity kappas 6.5 set on high. So it all depends on how you set you gains but I’m able to play all the way up with no distortion. Look at any pioneer manual and it Says it even out after the volume is turned up.
Oh, gotcha! Didn’t realize you meant when used with aftermarket amp. When I usually see clients misuse it or run into trouble is when they’re just running off deck power. I will definitely look into how Pioneer does it vs Kenwood. Thanks so much for contributing!
No, ot doesnt roll off on kenwood excelons. Some pioneers do, alpine definitely does. Alpine EQ and rca output sucks compared to kenwood
Thanks for this 👍 I got some really useful information that I couldn't find anywhere else. I wish Kenwood published stuff like this (or at least makes it easy to find)
So glad you enjoyed it!
I agree thanks for that
where to set at, if the head unit dont have LPF off function, say 50 63 80 100 125hz, is it leave at lower 50hz or pass through 125hz..... Thanks in advance ✌
Id say 50 Hz . Many amps nowadays also have a low pass crossover, so it is nice when the head unit can leave the Lp filter switched to off
You can set it all the way up at 125 hz if you plan on using your amp’s crossover. Or you can set the amp to the highest setting and then use your head unit at 80-100hz. I would do the latter.
@@HighVybeTribeThank you
@@gilbertogutierrez1658Thank you
@@gilbertogutierrez1658 Thank you
I’ve had these questions myself. Thanks for the video. 👍🏼
I recently bought a Kenwood head unit and it has a new to me feature where you can pick subwoofer size. I was curious what it actually does when you select different sizes and is there a way to turn it off? Thanks
Good information! I just recently bought a kenwood kmm-x705 , very nice head unit. I have a question on that unit. The heat sink gets very hot and was wondering how hot is to hot? I know that’s why it’s there but man does it get hot! I’ve checked all my connections for loose connections and all is good. Thanks in advance!
That's a great little receiver! Yes, they do get hot. I can tell you when I remove and replace head units on our display board (which are also turned on for 8 hours a day) they get nice and toasty, but I wouldn't say it's anything that scald my skin. But I wouldn't want to keep my hand on it. It's just like whoa, that baby is nice and hot. Depending on what kind of car this is installed in, that can add to the heat factor. Some cavities are just tighter/worse at dissipating heat than others. The only other thing to consider is the speaker impedance load. These head units really are meant for 4 ohm speakers. If you're running anything less than that, it can cause the head unit to overheat. I hope that helps!
Thanks for the feedback! It’s in a 2013 Chevy Silverado, I replaced all factory speakers with fosgate 6.5 4ohm 45w rms. I had a pioneer double din before the kenwood, nothing wrong with it , just was so big as far as no room behind the dash with all the connections, interface module. Just didn’t like the fact all those wires crammed under and behind the unit. The single din definitely freed a lot of space up for all the connections. Again thank you for your feedback! Greatly appreciated!! Happy Holidays to you!!
Sounds like it's all good and typical with the set up you've got. My pleasure, glad I could help! Happy Holidays to you too :)
I was going to say my Kenwood use to do that and I put a little fan back there which really helped but it was all because I had my tweeters hooked up with the 4 6×9 and was getting it way to hot so got me a 4 channel amp awesomeness since
thanks for the info I appreciate your time.
On the Kenwood head units (I have a DDX 6706S ) with DSP
For each of the 4 orders of crossover provided, are they butterworth? L-R? Bessel? Other?
Also are they the "normal" version of the circuit or the linear phase version since it's in the DSP?
I've been having issues when matching the 2nd order HPF on the head unit to an amp provided 2nd order LPF (unknown type, assumed Butterworth non-linear) on the sub amp that can't be disabled (JL Audio Powered Microsub+), and am suspecting different type is the issue.
When I don't use the head unit's crossover, and use the mid/tweeter amp's built in 2nd order (unknown type, assumed Butterworth, non-linear) on a Kenwood KAC-M3004, the phase sounds correct
Any insight would be greatly appreciated
If you use the crossover in the head unit and the crossovers on your amp, you can introduce phasing issues. Multiple crossovers can effect phase. You are best using one or the other. Since you can't turn it off on the sub amp, use the crossover on that and leave it off on the head unit. Whether you use the crossover on your 4-channel or the one on the head unit? I would try both and use whatever sounds better. Also, I would advise against using the speaker size feature as that will turn on the crossover in the DSP.
The only audio features I am using in my own personal vehicle are Supreme and Bass Extension. Time Alignment is a nice feature too and we often utilize in our installations, but keep in mind it can also cause phasing issues as well.
@@carstereochick I think you misread me (easy to do :)) .
For any given channel (either mid/hi or sub) I was only using one crossover per channel at a time.
It was just the difference in blending between using
(the HPF on the head unit OR the HPF on the amp for the mid/high )
AND
the LPF on the sub amp
and how it seemed to blend much better using the HPF on the amp.That was why I wondered if the head unit was using the linear phase version of the crossover vs replicating the analog version of a Butterworth 2nd order.
Agreed that I have all the speaker size things off and explicitly set the crossover and/or T/A as desired (as to not have their unknown EQ tweaking added for "speaker size" as that is more difficult to tune around)
Sorry about that, but I think we ended up in the same place :) I honestly don't know what type of crossover they are using internally. Great question though for Josh Bowen.
Help! I have a KMR-M 3088T I can't get it to turn on the am, fm part
I just need to know how to set the date please
Muffed sound on my speakers why can’t get clear sound?
What is the year, make and model vehicle? What speakers? What did it sound like with the original stereo?
Thanks for the informative video
Thanks for watching! I’m glad you enjoyed it 👍
@@carstereochick I was definitely interested
I got the 705 exelon. Subwoofer output is very weak. I got a 2000 watt amp and my sub barely move. Subwoofer is at high. Any idea?
Yeah a few ideas. First off, what are you using for a music source? Spotify or TH-cam music app on the regular (low quality/efficient) setting? Or a higher quality app like Tidal or Apple Music with lossless audio? MP3's on a thumb drive or are you using original CD's?
First thing to keep in mind - garbage in/garbage out. The quality of the music you are using makes a huge difference in output, detail and bass response. Compressed audio sources like Spotify and TH-cam will sound thin/lack bass compared to the same tracks played at full resolution through a higher quality app like Tidal/Apple Music (with lossless turned on) or an original CD.
Could be the quality of the products you're working with. Many manufacturers slap huge power ratings on their amps to grab your attention, but the number is essentially fantasy - "peak power". The RMS of your 2000 watt amp might only be 300-500 watts. What's the model of your amp?
Could also be the quality of your power wire. If you're not using 100% oxygen free copper as well as the proper gauge power (and matching ground wire) for your amp, it's essentially like trying to suck down a big thick milkshake with a coffee stirrer straw. With the wrong gauge/quality power/ground wire, your amp could be starved for power and not able to put out what it's designed to.
Could be the car it's installed in. If you're using this in a vehicle that has a stock premium amplified stereo that is speaker level, like an older BMW or Subaru with Harmon Kardon, your interior speakers are essentially getting double signal amplification. The Kenwood internal speaker amp, plus the stock premium amp. In that case use your volume offset feature for that to turn down the gain on the stock amp and level match so your sub isn't getting drowned out.
There are so many things that could be going on. Something I'd have to look at and listen to, to really help you, but hopefully this gives you some ideas on what to look at.
Hi ! Really greatfull for such audio channel specific information. One major drawback….the car industry.
Can you make a video explaining how the e.v market will be for audio enthusiasts ? Will it be possible to bypass audio
on Toyota bz4x, Tesla and others ? They are doing everything to make it a nightmare for us. Thanks a lot !
Great idea. Luckily for a lot of newer vehicles with these types of fully integrated infotainment systems, we are seeing pre-amp adapters from companies like PAC Audio, NAV TV, Mobridge, iDatalink Maestro, etc. that allow us to intercept the audio signal from the factory head unit while it's still digital before it reaches any factory amplifier. We can then take that intercepted signal and send it to aftermarket amplifier, DSP and speakers. I haven't seen anything specific to Tesla in this arena, but I imagine Toyota will use some technology similar to what they do in their other products, so we may see something like an AP4-TY13 or similar come out for the BZ4X.
I do have concerns about power draw for aftermarket amps on EV's. They all usually still have a standard 12 volt battery in them, but they're small and not really designed for the type of load an aftermarket amp can draw. There are some guys that have been brave enough and knowledgeable enough about the vehicle to tap into the real power supply on Tesla's for aftermarket accessories, but that's not something our shop would attempt. We typically only see clients looking to add things like radar detectors to these vehicles which have such a tiny power draw that they have little to no effect on the 12 volt battery.
I think we're a long ways away from that anyways. EV's are such a tiny percentage of the cars we work on. Out of the thousands of cars that pass through our shop each year, maybe 10 are fully electric vehicles. Definitely seeing a lot more Hybrids. Guess what the Hybrid clients are usually buying......a remote car starter! LOL the irony.
@@carstereochick Thanks a lot, your answer is pretty important, I will definitively and other audio enthusiast will take it to account
when choosing an e.v. It will be necessary to contact the part manager and check the blueprint, as I did and they are not able. I may
go to an audio shop while test drive with a seller, imagine the scene ? They never will let that happen. The road of car audio excellence is full of bumps !
Hi, i recently bought a kdc-bt950dab how do i block the low frequency's (1-60hz) to my speakers at the headunit so that only my subs get that signal and not my mid range speakers (radio is set to compact car because its a small van with al wall of 4 subwoofers)
Look for HPF in the audio settings and set to the desired frequency. You may find this video helpful, it's a similar style single DIN where I go over all the settings.
th-cam.com/video/2fFg2_DGHkA/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
@@carstereochick found it but i set it to 150hz.. but with a tonegenerator i can still here it starting at about 55hz (not loud but its there) the higher the frequency te more as aspected. thx anyway for the reply, everything will be amplified in the next months so the full range amps can control it
Thanks for good stuff. Can you tell me how to delete radio channels on my KDC855U? Yes, its kinda old but so is my car (2000 Toyota Camry).
Thank you! No delete function, but you can overwrite other channels by pressing and holding the preset number while you are on the station you want to set.
Awesome video!
Thank you!! So glad you enjoyed 😊
@@carstereochick yeah! If you can, i would like to see a comparisson between old school (around 2003) Excelon 3D-Mask units (i love those motorized face plates 😁😁😁) and newer units. Could be just reviewing the specs/showing pics/discussing features. Some of those don't have an aux input 🤣.
I just got a ddx9907xr , it has a bass boost setting and a realizer setting. Whats the difference?
I don't know the exact frequency ranges Kenwood is boosting, but in general, Bass Boost is going to just boost those lower bass frequencies like 50 - 250 Hz. I could be wrong on this, but my understanding is realizer is designed more to restore frequency levels across the board that are compromised during compression. It would be helpful when listening to a compressed source like SiriusXM for example.
@@carstereochick Thanks for the help!
Does the kdc x305 have concert or Hall effect?
In the preset EQ it's got Natural, Rock, Pops, Easy, Top 40, Jazz and Powerful - no separate Concert or Hall effect.
So I have Kenwood Excelon KDC-X305 and I can’t figure out how to tune it for the life of me had an older kenwood, alpine, and pioneer was nice an easy but this thing has like 14 options half of the are hz numbers. And the guide for it is useless. Help please lol
Let me know if u figure it out need help with it also
Kenwood excelon came out in the early 90s, how I know I'm old 2 I had a 700 series excelon detachable flip face 😁👍💪💪💪💯💯💯💯
😂😂I have one with motorized flip down still sitting in my lab , loved that thing
Does any one know why when I connect to Bluetooth my volume only goes up to 27 if it goes higher it resets to 15
Thats a sign of bad ground
Why is the vloume only go up to 35?
Doesn't matter if it goes only to 35... I barely put mines to 30 and when i do that is very loud... That's only if you have upgraded your speakers and amplifier as well to get a well balanced sound.
I have a question!
Could someone explain on there head units.
DDX9905S. Or newer.
How to set up “time alignment”. Seems to be measured differently from home theater settings.
“Great share guys!”
Larry
Great question!! We should do a video just on that because the newer manuals do not explain it clearly. Pick your reference point which is usually the position of the driver's head. Then measure the distances from that reference point to each speaker. The speaker that is farthest away from you is set to 0 on the head unit. Depending on phase and application, this could be the subwoofer or it could be a rear speaker. That is the one that takes the longest to "hit" you. Then you subtract the difference between the distance of that farthest speaker and the distance of the other speakers from that reference point. That difference is the number you plug into the head unit.
So for example, if the right rear speaker is the farthest away at a distance of 5 ft and the front right is 3 ft away from the reference point, you delay the front right by 2 ft. If your front left is 1.5 ft away from the reference point, you delay the front left by 3.5 ft.
I bought a work truck and had Best Buy install a new radio because I wanted Bluetooth. They recommended kenwood. I can’t for the life of me figure this radio out and the tiny instruction book is complete crap. I’m old and didn’t want gadgets or internet radio. Just a basic unit with Bluetooth. Very sorry I bought this.
What model did they sell you? Poor salespeople on their part. I’m sorry for the experience you had, but please understand that is more an error on the retailer and their customer service reps than the radio. They’re not specialists like you would find at an independent retailer. At my own shop I have conversations with clients to understand their needs and I demonstrate it so I can gauge a clients reaction. For anyone who can appreciate ease of use, I steer them towards Alpine. They have fewer bells and whistles which can make it easier to use. For those interested in some really great audio control features and who are more comfortable navigating the radio menu’s and features, Kenwood is a great fit. I recommend talking to a manager and see if someone can sit down with you and take the time to go over it OR see if they can exchange it for something easier to use. FYI all the manufacturers are including short quick start guides with the radio while the full, detailed manual is available on their website support page.
@@carstereochick KDC something or other. Do you have a recommendation for what I described I’m looking for?
You might want to look at an Alpine CDE-172BT (CD player) or UTE-73BT (no CD player). They're both a bit more user friendly. Audio options for those models are simply bass, treble, mid, balance, fader and the display is a little easier to see in bright glare.
@@carstereochick Awesome. Thanks
@@reallmccoy9043 How are you doing with the Kenwood? They are wonderful products with quality of stuff that's 3x the price.
If you are having any issues still I'd be happy to walk you through them. I'll even make videos showing exactly how if need be.
OK I have to tell you this is boring totally boring. You’re not explaining any of the features and how to use the Kenwood radio.
Sorry to bore you! Perhaps one of my product testing videos would be more enjoyable where I actually go through all the different audio settings and show how they can effect signal output. Or maybe I'm just not your jam and that's okay too.
She does the best amongst everyone to explain and show what settings do what to our analog outputs. Take your sour ass somewhere else no one can help you here lol