@@decaturridgebees8761 well the hogs it was devastating too. I did not shoot at a deer this season. Going after 1 particular buck this season. Have meat left over from last year.
Troy is great and gets back to you pretty quick! He and the Wizard have helped me immensely! It's been a fun and frustrating project, and my wife now hates because I like it enough that my curiosity starts to twitch and I by different shafts to tinker with just to see.😁
Ranch Fairy is the MAN! This system works and has done wonders for my consistency. One thing I noticed in all of my nock tuning, and I’ve done a lot. Is that it is a perfect opportunity to focus on my form. Where you hit the target doesn’t matter at that stage , so if you’re shooting the same every time and the arrow leaves the bow straight then your groupings improve. At least for me. Thank you RF. I’m super excited about this season because confidence in my system is at an all time high.
I loved when Mr. Fowlor acknowledge the difference of hunting public land with no bait verses TX ranches because I have worked hard to hunt where I can and things can be real tough. A 20 yard shot is my goal while hunting in Massachusetts, but the average reality is 1 or 2 opportunities at 25-35 yards with my faithless arrow Sr. Bobnweave. I tuned my bow for the first time, a baby step toward competence. I have to also mention the pigs doing the CHA CHA in a R. F. video about shooting moving targets, which was a hilarious way to broach an important issue. I don't think those pigs dance like public land deer in Mass (they're ninjas), so my ANXIETY about loosing speed hasn't completely resolved. I love the concepts and info your passing on Mr. Fowlor; the demonstrations are very convincing. I'm considering adulthood.
You say your “miss” is forward, not behind the shoulder. I’d say, do what you’re doing with the correct (new) setup, and it really isn’t a “miss”. You are exactly where you need to be, you’ve just had the wrong setup. Back in the day (80’s), we all hunted with Aluminum arrows and fixed blade (Thunderhead) broadheads, and we always had a pass through, and a very high recovery rate. Then we switched to carbon (not slamming carbon) because they were lighter, and then mechanical heads, and everything went south. Sometimes we are our worst enemies. Troy has it figured out! And for all the non-believers, out to 35 yards, the arrow carries so much energy, the ballistics are that much different. Tons of up side, not much down side. Great video guys. 👍
Working for an archery shop, the first thing I do is work with people on their form. 9 times out of 10 they are gripping that bow like a son of a gun and slapping the trigger. I believe a lot of this is caused by not knowing how to properly shoot and also shooting a lot more draw weight than they can handle. If your are having a hard time pulling the bow back it will lead to gripping that bow like crazy to help get it back. Id rather shoot slower and have great form than shoot to much weight. Also it is important to have your bow tuned to you and your arrow set up. This may involve changing top hats or adjusting cam lean or rest adjustments. but once you do that, your bow should shoot any properly spined arrow wether it is heavy or light with great results. Set my buddies bow up the other day and it will shoot 250 and 350 carbon express sd arrows perfectly. Put one of my 340 axis arrows on it and shot it just as good as well as my heavy set up in a 250 Apollo from Sirius archery coming in at 610 grains. The excuse that you don't have time to make sure your bow is tuned and shooting your fixed blades well is not a good excuse. I believe it is unethical to shoot at an animal without practicing and putting the time in that is necessary to be proficient. We owe it to ourselves, the sport, and most importantly the animal.
Great vid, the RF is practical and tells it like it is. It seems that my 210 fps, 65lb draw at 28.5" with a 250 Sirius and 200g head isn't much different than where we were 30 years ago except I'm up to 660 grains and 21.8% foc, (I choose it to be so). I watch the "others" who preach flat trajectory and guess yardage when animals walk, dip, turn, or bolt for improved success, and that's valid. Don't publish arrow drop unless the bow is sighted into the present arrow weight...hello!!! But I find myself thinking back to Chuck Adams era (mine also) and saying to these people, how did he do it then? He shot recurves, early sub 200fps and aluminum, and still did it all to the tune of 200+ records when everyone was shooting over 500g, and most didn't even know it. That's funny, don't care who you are, that's funny. Seems some may be just trying to justify a setup for youtube views or commercial sponsors (I heard the miss quotes of the Ashby Foundation on other vids). Hell, every bow made these days is "high tech" compared to what I learned on, but you can't discount that slower speed was not a huge factor in archery success. The difference between a 430g arrow and a 660g arrow at 60yds is what percentage of a second at 65lbs? OK, about a third (.33) at 66yds. If one third of a second is going to be the dif between success and failure, then I am sure the average jack archer (no not you) hasn't the chance of an ice cube in hell. As the RF would say..."I don't care" (followed by hysterical laughter). If I'm viewed as a lunatic, then I'm in good company, show me the touchstone normal one, Eh!
Great POD cast. Have watched all of the Ranch Fairy videos and built my own FOC arrows. Even the bare shaft tuning showed I was griping the bow wrong after all these years. Now looking forward to putting them to use this season.
Great Video Guys. Love your philosophy. I shot archery in my teens back in the 1970s. the I had a decent for the time 35 pound one piece recurve bow, and had what was at the time considered average 1 dollar Kmart target arrows and we shot in the back yard and at school a couple of times a year. My older brother had bought a 50 pound Bear hunting bow that was like a 58 inch length bow and it was a tad to heavy for me at 14, but by the time I got to 16 I could draw it and shoot it. The arrows that came with that bow were better than the 1 dollar specials, and we tended to shoot 10 yards average to 15 which isn't and wasn't a real good test of how good or bad the arrows were back then. We would roll them on a table, and if they were not close to true, we wouldn't use them. The last year that I had shot archery was 1981 in the 11th grade, with that 50 pound bear, and its hunting arrows with target tips. Now fast forward to 2020 Covid quarantine. My older brother has an older compound that he was shooting a couple times a year and I haven't shot any archery since the age of 17. I am now 57. So I get a bug up my rectum, and am bored to tears other than my other 6 hobbies, and decide to buy a bow and start shooting agian. I bought a Fleetwood Monarch/wood takedown bow (45lbs) because the shop didn't have a 55 at the time. I shot the 45 in sets of 12, because I bought 12 Goldtip 400 spine arrows that were recommended to me by the shop, and at ranges of 10 to 20 yards in our back yard, we started playing. I got to where I was shooting 360 shots a day within a month, and hated to pay the money, but bought a 55 pound Fleetwood edge at a Sportsman Outfitters because they were the only store in town that had a 55 pound in stock. Within 2 months I had ordered a 60 pound bow on Amazon and it had a metal riser that is a knock off of the Hoyt M2 with the back bridged guard. I watched some You Tube videos and built some 70 and 80 pound limbs so I could start shooting in those pound ranges, and I just finished making my first 100 pound set yesterday. I very quickly and without realizing it started making 600 grain arrows. I got a deal on about 200 aluminum arrows from the old bow shop here, as he had them in 5 gallon buckets where they had been custom ordered but they never got picked up for some reason. He sold them all to me at 2 dollars apiece. Quite a few of them were the XX75 in like the 2213 and 2214 sizes. I put 225 grain field tips on them because they were on sale 10 cents apiece because no one was buying them. I cut them down to 27 inches, as I draw 26.5, and the heavy tips are like 1 and a quarter long as it is. I then found that some of the arrows fit into the ID of the larger ones well, so I doubled the arrow shafts before putting in the inserts. Now at the time I wasn't aware of arrow tuning, and not about tuning with the inserts, or nocks, and totally not about paper tuning. I really wanted that Game of Thrones/Lord of the Rings look to my Bow, and Arrows, so I got 5 inch Turkey feather RH twist fletching feathers in dark green and black. I then 6 fletched these arrows with my Bitzenburger Fletcher and the arrow came out to about 843 grains. now what is somewhat funny about these arrows is they don't arch. If they drop, they drop on a flat trajectory. So at 30 yards I could aim at the top of the target and they would drop just slightly and flat hit the target fairly center. At 10 to 20 yards they seem to basically fly strait to the center without any noticeable drop from the 80pound bow. They don't seem to have a archer paradox either when I shoot them through a whisker brush rest. Anyway, I am having fun, and killing cardboard, and learning. I plan on tuning the arrows now, and that should be a standard thing to do. I just have had it easy because I had heavy arrows FOC at a short range so if any of them were banana's, I have not been shooting them at a long enough range to detect it.
I’ve been shooting the G5 Montecs CS for a few years now. I sharpened them to hair shaving sharp. I shot one into my foam target 4 or 5 times and checked for sharpness. I could not believe it was still sharp enough to shave my arm hair.
I hunt public here in northeast alabama w yall fellas and just swapped from flappers w rages to sirius apollos 200 spine w 220 grain insert and tuffhead meatheads
Seen a nice 8 point floating in the river yesterday that someone shot. It had a big hole in the side but looked far back. I couldnt flip it to see the other side. It was a big hole like a mechanical wound. Like silver dollar size
I gave up on mechanicals long before the rage craze came around. I lost too many due to malfunctions and recovered too many broken heads to use any broadhead that can fail. I like single piece forged blades from 200-300 grain. I can not always find them so I do have some that are 2 pieces (a ferrule and a blade) but I prefer the 1 piece. I am trying to get a compound to shoot my big heads and I am having a hard time. The 200 spine is my next experiment
I stick to basics. 90lb bow with 720 grain 240 spine arrow never failed me. I don't like rubber rings, plastic rings, screws or moving parts on my broadhead. I limit my shots to 85 yards.
Ethics archery makes a spinning insert. I heard about it on a podcast probably a year ago I don't remember which podcast it was and with some digging I think I could probably find it and if I do I'll post a link. The theory behind thesr spinning insert is that it would help fix blade cut on contact broadheads fly true with minimal tuning but I'm not sure how that would work for the single bevel setup. The theory was that this would make the weekend warrior more lethal with less work I love the idea but I have never tried these for myself. I'm going to send Troy an email and I'm actually thinking about sending him some of these inserts to test I'll pay for them if he'll do the work LOL because I'm one of those 85-hour a week guys who quit bow hunting two years ago after losing a deer of a lifetime by using flappy wings broadheads so I don't bother anymore I'll wait till rifle season comes in and I can kill them for sure. I really want bow hunt again and I'm taking steps to build an adult arrow and broadhead combination for next season this year it's already too late.
If you work 85 hours a week , why are you posting comments on videos and not testing your bullshit yourself...? I think your afraid it will cut into your video criticism...?
I love rf I went a little too heavy at 770grains so I'm working on backing it down a bit to about 500grains 770g have amazing penetration but also arc in like a rainbow lol
13:39 I love RF but this drives me nuts. He's making it more difficult than it needs to be when it comes to tuning. If you have a bowmaster press, some basic knowledge, and a bt of patience you can get way more arrow and weight combinations to fly well than just relying on trying different combos until you find the "one." Also, relying on a bow shop to set up your bow and then just tezting arrows is also going to lead a lot of folks to frustration. Sometimes you absolutely need to adjust cam lean, or timing, or shims or whatever and most shops dont have the time or motivation to spend all day with one customer getting their rig shooting right.
21:27 Everything shoots straight for them because they have a bow that's already set up pretty well and they aren't torquing the crap out of their bow.
When I used mechanicals my bad shots were back bc I was scared of the shoulder. If you’re going to shoot mechanicals, I’d be even more religious with making the step towards high foc builds. Give that head the best possible chance of penetration possible.
dame Troy you broke my heart I am a 29 inch draw with the vxr 28 lol shoots good for me but it will for sure show you just how bad your form is. So it has helped me pay more attention to my form and grip.
For paper tuning I’ve always read that you follow the point with your rest. On your podcast you say that you follow the nock end with your rest. I’m confused. I’ll have to try it again but I’ve always gotten larger tears by adjusting my rest to nock side of a paper tear. But I agree, in my mind it makes sense to move the point of the arrow to the right if I’m getting a nock right tear.
Tail left move rest right towards riser. Tail right move rest left away from riser. Its best to set the center shot to 13/16-7/8ths from the riser then tune with cams(top hats, Yoke, Shims). When youre in between tail left and right with the cams use the rest to micro tune. What bow are you shooting?
@@vm859 Carbon Defiant 34, Black Prime 5, Revolt X. The Revolt is new and still at the shop. Black 5 is new and I can't get a good paper tear. Carbon Defiant had some cam lean I was able to fix on the top cam as it has a yoke. My shop guy says having the arrow way left of center is normal on a Hoyt. But I still have trouble getting a bullet hole.
@@paulcrave3112 This is long but I've been in your shoes with a shop who didnt know what they were doing. OK so first off there is nothing wrong with some cam lean and its unfortunate but your shop doesnt really know what theyre talking about. I see it with a lot of shops and frustration made me get my own press and learn how to tune many years ago. All my bows usually have some degree of cam lean especially hoyts. The rest should be center shot and not moved more than a hash mark left or right. The whole point of the yoke system on hoyt is to put twists on the legs to introduce cam lean to get rid of tears. The prime has an adjustable flex gaurd for the same reason: to introduce some cam lean to get a bullet hole. You tighten down/loose the flex guard bolt and it causes the cables to increase/lessen tension left/right on the cams to introduce or reduce cam lean. Manufactures WANT YOU to add/subtract cam lean in order to get good arrow flight. I would suggest you bring your bows to someone who knows how to tune. Dont you find it odd that you have top tier flagship bows that wont tune? Steps for tuning 1 level arrow rest/nocking point 2 check cam timing 3 set center shot to 13/16 of an inch from riser 4 shoot through paper. Right tear- put one half twist in top right yoke leg and take out one half from left leg. Next shoot through paper again and keep going (dont exceed 4 FULL twist in the legs) until you get a bullet hole. The ONLY time you touch the rest is if your are in between left/right tears where one twist is too much then you micro adjust the rest. Thats how you tune a hoyt not the left of center BS your shop was selling you. Good luck sir.
V M thanks for the help. I don’t have a press so I’m kinda stuck. Are you talking full twists or half twists? I did have a guy from my archery club take out some cam lean on the tip cam. He said he did a half twist on the right side and that was it. It took out the noticeable cam lean. There is no yoke on the bottom cam.
Im shootting 44# Recurve The Arrows are 1916 Xx75 2 blade 125 Zwickey with 40 grain adapter and a regular insert 10 gr per inch. 28 inch 5 inch feather is that OK. My mentor killed a deer at 30yrds with a 39# longbow 650 grain wood Arrow and Zwikey.
Awesome podcast👍👍 So, I'm late to the party ( long story), just bareshaft tuned, narrowed down my point weight, realized I had some torque in my grip- consciously working through that, am now shooting bare shaft plumb and plumb into foam at chest level at 20yards and go to order my 200 grain single bevels and guess what? Everyone is out of single bevel broadheads! @ #ranchfairynation Have my name on the list with Cutthroat (ETA October 12), going to burn up my phone trying to find something similar to test with in the meantime. I'm not upset about this at all as I feel that this means Ranch Fairy is responsible for progressing the sport, and increasing Bowhunter knowledge and effectiveness= VERY COOL. I work a 12 hour shift and have plenty of time off to hunt, so I won't go till I'm dead on satisfied and scary sharp, just wanted to share this phenomenon. I'd bet the broadhead manufacturers are collectively going W.T.F.? = AWESOMENESS
You cant just forget about speed. It varies with the animal and the distance. A 30 yard shot on a whitetail with a 400 gr arrow vs a 700 gr arrow is big difference. If you are shooting game with fast reflexes, you should find a good balance. Ranch Fairy has gotten me to raise my arrow weight, but I'm sticking with a 500 gr arrow for elk and deer at close ranges.
Actually, he noticed a change in penetration at 500gr. There are 12 factors. Arrow weight is just one. Structural integrity of the arrow system, perfect arrow flight, FOC, razor sharp broadhead are just 4 of them. For deer he suggested 550gr 19+% FOC. I'm looking at 525gr-535gr +/-
To the guy who works 8-10 hour days and has a family like we ALL do! What are your priorities?! If it's going to the bar every Friday after work and spend $200 bucks, or if your kids have 12 sports between the 3 of them, or if you flop your butt on the couch and watch tv... Don't complain about other people's nicer equipment. Don't complain about how you miss deer. Don't complain about how you keep bonking deer. You are the problem.
You have to tune your bow. If you are shooting a well tuned bow you will smoke deers with mechanicals. That goes the same for any broad head. Tune, tune, tune
My pro shop looked at my arrows and said you been watching that ranch fairy guy , and the same thing happened to me ,the arrow went into his target up to the fletching and he said wow that is the quietest triaxx I ever heard , but he still tried to preach speed to me , but I still shoot adult arrows
I love the podcast. I am upgrading to the an adult arrow. I spoke with Ranch Fairy the other day. I just got them in today. I will upload my new video soon. Check out my TH-cam channel.
Guys your talking like you always find your arrows after you shoot I lost five arrows in Alaska last week the tundra swallowed em! But that’s not the only place I’ve not been able to find arrows! 100 bucks a head no thanks
14:54 - JB Weld
I emailed Troy in the middle of this vid. He responded before the video ended lol. On a Sunday night! You gotta appreciate that kind of service!
Iv had the same experience. RF is a genuine dude 💪🏽🇺🇸
Changed my whole setup this spring after watching his channel. Ready to see it in action on some pigs and deer in a couple of weeks
How’d it go?
@@decaturridgebees8761 well the hogs it was devastating too. I did not shoot at a deer this season. Going after 1 particular buck this season. Have meat left over from last year.
Troy is great and gets back to you pretty quick! He and the Wizard have helped me immensely! It's been a fun and frustrating project, and my wife now hates because I like it enough that my curiosity starts to twitch and I by different shafts to tinker with just to see.😁
Ranch Fairy is the MAN! This system works and has done wonders for my consistency. One thing I noticed in all of my nock tuning, and I’ve done a lot. Is that it is a perfect opportunity to focus on my form. Where you hit the target doesn’t matter at that stage , so if you’re shooting the same every time and the arrow leaves the bow straight then your groupings improve. At least for me. Thank you RF. I’m super excited about this season because confidence in my system is at an all time high.
I loved when Mr. Fowlor acknowledge the difference of hunting public land with no bait verses TX ranches because I have worked hard to hunt where I can and things can be real tough. A 20 yard shot is my goal while hunting in Massachusetts, but the average reality is 1 or 2 opportunities at 25-35 yards with my faithless arrow Sr. Bobnweave. I tuned my bow for the first time, a baby step toward competence. I have to also mention the pigs doing the CHA CHA in a R. F. video about shooting moving targets, which was a hilarious way to broach an important issue. I don't think those pigs dance like public land deer in Mass (they're ninjas), so my ANXIETY about loosing speed hasn't completely resolved. I love the concepts and info your passing on Mr. Fowlor; the demonstrations are very convincing. I'm considering adulthood.
You say your “miss” is forward, not behind the shoulder. I’d say, do what you’re doing with the correct (new) setup, and it really isn’t a “miss”. You are exactly where you need to be, you’ve just had the wrong setup. Back in the day (80’s), we all hunted with Aluminum arrows and fixed blade (Thunderhead) broadheads, and we always had a pass through, and a very high recovery rate. Then we switched to carbon (not slamming carbon) because they were lighter, and then mechanical heads, and everything went south. Sometimes we are our worst enemies. Troy has it figured out! And for all the non-believers, out to 35 yards, the arrow carries so much energy, the ballistics are that much different. Tons of up side, not much down side. Great video guys. 👍
Working for an archery shop, the first thing I do is work with people on their form. 9 times out of 10 they are gripping that bow like a son of a gun and slapping the trigger. I believe a lot of this is caused by not knowing how to properly shoot and also shooting a lot more draw weight than they can handle. If your are having a hard time pulling the bow back it will lead to gripping that bow like crazy to help get it back. Id rather shoot slower and have great form than shoot to much weight. Also it is important to have your bow tuned to you and your arrow set up. This may involve changing top hats or adjusting cam lean or rest adjustments. but once you do that, your bow should shoot any properly spined arrow wether it is heavy or light with great results. Set my buddies bow up the other day and it will shoot 250 and 350 carbon express sd arrows perfectly. Put one of my 340 axis arrows on it and shot it just as good as well as my heavy set up in a 250 Apollo from Sirius archery coming in at 610 grains. The excuse that you don't have time to make sure your bow is tuned and shooting your fixed blades well is not a good excuse. I believe it is unethical to shoot at an animal without practicing and putting the time in that is necessary to be proficient. We owe it to ourselves, the sport, and most importantly the animal.
Great vid, the RF is practical and tells it like it is. It seems that my 210 fps, 65lb draw at 28.5" with a 250 Sirius and 200g head isn't much different than where we were 30 years ago except I'm up to 660 grains and 21.8% foc, (I choose it to be so). I watch the "others" who preach flat trajectory and guess yardage when animals walk, dip, turn, or bolt for improved success, and that's valid. Don't publish arrow drop unless the bow is sighted into the present arrow weight...hello!!! But I find myself thinking back to Chuck Adams era (mine also) and saying to these people, how did he do it then? He shot recurves, early sub 200fps and aluminum, and still did it all to the tune of 200+ records when everyone was shooting over 500g, and most didn't even know it. That's funny, don't care who you are, that's funny. Seems some may be just trying to justify a setup for youtube views or commercial sponsors (I heard the miss quotes of the Ashby Foundation on other vids). Hell, every bow made these days is "high tech" compared to what I learned on, but you can't discount that slower speed was not a huge factor in archery success. The difference between a 430g arrow and a 660g arrow at 60yds is what percentage of a second at 65lbs? OK, about a third (.33) at 66yds. If one third of a second is going to be the dif between success and failure, then I am sure the average jack archer (no not you) hasn't the chance of an ice cube in hell. As the RF would say..."I don't care" (followed by hysterical laughter). If I'm viewed as a lunatic, then I'm in good company, show me the touchstone normal one, Eh!
Great POD cast. Have watched all of the Ranch Fairy videos and built my own FOC arrows. Even the bare shaft tuning showed I was griping the bow wrong after all these years. Now looking forward to putting them to use this season.
Great Video Guys. Love your philosophy. I shot archery in my teens back in the 1970s. the I had a decent for the time 35 pound one piece recurve bow, and had what was at the time considered average 1 dollar Kmart target arrows and we shot in the back yard and at school a couple of times a year. My older brother had bought a 50 pound Bear hunting bow that was like a 58 inch length bow and it was a tad to heavy for me at 14, but by the time I got to 16 I could draw it and shoot it. The arrows that came with that bow were better than the 1 dollar specials, and we tended to shoot 10 yards average to 15 which isn't and wasn't a real good test of how good or bad the arrows were back then. We would roll them on a table, and if they were not close to true, we wouldn't use them.
The last year that I had shot archery was 1981 in the 11th grade, with that 50 pound bear, and its hunting arrows with target tips.
Now fast forward to 2020 Covid quarantine. My older brother has an older compound that he was shooting a couple times a year and I haven't shot any archery since the age of 17. I am now 57.
So I get a bug up my rectum, and am bored to tears other than my other 6 hobbies, and decide to buy a bow and start shooting agian.
I bought a Fleetwood Monarch/wood takedown bow (45lbs) because the shop didn't have a 55 at the time. I shot the 45 in sets of 12, because I bought 12 Goldtip 400 spine arrows that were recommended to me by the shop, and at ranges of 10 to 20 yards in our back yard, we started playing.
I got to where I was shooting 360 shots a day within a month, and hated to pay the money, but bought a 55 pound Fleetwood edge at a Sportsman Outfitters because they were the only store in town that had a 55 pound in stock. Within 2 months I had ordered a 60 pound bow on Amazon and it had a metal riser that is a knock off of the Hoyt M2 with the back bridged guard.
I watched some You Tube videos and built some 70 and 80 pound limbs so I could start shooting in those pound ranges, and I just finished making my first 100 pound set yesterday.
I very quickly and without realizing it started making 600 grain arrows. I got a deal on about 200 aluminum arrows from the old bow shop here, as he had them in 5 gallon buckets where they had been custom ordered but they never got picked up for some reason. He sold them all to me at 2 dollars apiece.
Quite a few of them were the XX75 in like the 2213 and 2214 sizes. I put 225 grain field tips on them because they were on sale 10 cents apiece because no one was buying them. I cut them down to 27 inches, as I draw 26.5, and the heavy tips are like 1 and a quarter long as it is. I then found that some of the arrows fit into the ID of the larger ones well, so I doubled the arrow shafts before putting in the inserts. Now at the time I wasn't aware of arrow tuning, and not about tuning with the inserts, or nocks, and totally not about paper tuning.
I really wanted that Game of Thrones/Lord of the Rings look to my Bow, and Arrows, so I got 5 inch Turkey feather RH twist fletching feathers in dark green and black. I then 6 fletched these arrows with my Bitzenburger Fletcher and the arrow came out to about 843 grains.
now what is somewhat funny about these arrows is they don't arch. If they drop, they drop on a flat trajectory. So at 30 yards I could aim at the top of the target and they would drop just slightly and flat hit the target fairly center. At 10 to 20 yards they seem to basically fly strait to the center without any noticeable drop from the 80pound bow. They don't seem to have a archer paradox either when I shoot them through a whisker brush rest.
Anyway, I am having fun, and killing cardboard, and learning. I plan on tuning the arrows now, and that should be a standard thing to do. I just have had it easy because I had heavy arrows FOC at a short range so if any of them were banana's, I have not been shooting them at a long enough range to detect it.
Lol I did the same thing, went to the shop and told them what I was planning on doing and we enjoyed about 15 to 30 seconds of awkward silence!
Why?
I’ve been shooting the G5 Montecs CS for a few years now. I sharpened them to hair shaving sharp. I shot one into my foam target 4 or 5 times and checked for sharpness. I could not believe it was still sharp enough to shave my arm hair.
My fisrt bow was a 35 lb recurve that shot cedar shaft wood arrows.It was ll there was at the time.It was 40lbs.It would blow right through a deer.
I hunt public here in northeast alabama w yall fellas and just swapped from flappers w rages to sirius apollos 200 spine w 220 grain insert and tuffhead meatheads
Seen a nice 8 point floating in the river yesterday that someone shot. It had a big hole in the side but looked far back. I couldnt flip it to see the other side. It was a big hole like a mechanical wound. Like silver dollar size
That was awesome, Chur for that.. From New Zealand
I gave up on mechanicals long before the rage craze came around. I lost too many due to malfunctions and recovered too many broken heads to use any broadhead that can fail. I like single piece forged blades from 200-300 grain. I can not always find them so I do have some that are 2 pieces (a ferrule and a blade) but I prefer the 1 piece. I am trying to get a compound to shoot my big heads and I am having a hard time. The 200 spine is my next experiment
I stick to basics. 90lb bow with 720 grain 240 spine arrow never failed me. I don't like rubber rings, plastic rings, screws or moving parts on my broadhead. I limit my shots to 85 yards.
Really? 90 pound?
If you're 6'5" 250 lbs muscle, pulling 90# is just like 5'10" 170 lbs dude pulling 65# 😃
Awesome,awesome Ranch Fairy,love this video
Lots and lots of good info. Thank you Troy
Can't say enough about Toughhead 💪🏽🇺🇸
Ethics archery makes a spinning insert. I heard about it on a podcast probably a year ago I don't remember which podcast it was and with some digging I think I could probably find it and if I do I'll post a link. The theory behind thesr spinning insert is that it would help fix blade cut on contact broadheads fly true with minimal tuning but I'm not sure how that would work for the single bevel setup. The theory was that this would make the weekend warrior more lethal with less work I love the idea but I have never tried these for myself. I'm going to send Troy an email and I'm actually thinking about sending him some of these inserts to test I'll pay for them if he'll do the work LOL because I'm one of those 85-hour a week guys who quit bow hunting two years ago after losing a deer of a lifetime by using flappy wings broadheads so I don't bother anymore I'll wait till rifle season comes in and I can kill them for sure. I really want bow hunt again and I'm taking steps to build an adult arrow and broadhead combination for next season this year it's already too late.
If you work 85 hours a week , why are you posting comments on videos and not testing your bullshit yourself...? I think your afraid it will cut into your video criticism...?
I love rf I went a little too heavy at 770grains so I'm working on backing it down a bit to about 500grains 770g have amazing penetration but also arc in like a rainbow lol
I'm going to 525gr-535gr +/- for deer.
My setup is 520 grains total, 24.7% FOC, 300 spine, 7.1 gpi shaft. It blows through deer like nobody's business...😊
After you shoot the hunting arrow, what do you do with it?
Really enjoyed the podcast.
13:39 I love RF but this drives me nuts. He's making it more difficult than it needs to be when it comes to tuning. If you have a bowmaster press, some basic knowledge, and a bt of patience you can get way more arrow and weight combinations to fly well than just relying on trying different combos until you find the "one." Also, relying on a bow shop to set up your bow and then just tezting arrows is also going to lead a lot of folks to frustration. Sometimes you absolutely need to adjust cam lean, or timing, or shims or whatever and most shops dont have the time or motivation to spend all day with one customer getting their rig shooting right.
21:27 Everything shoots straight for them because they have a bow that's already set up pretty well and they aren't torquing the crap out of their bow.
great podcast guys I love Troy smart dude and now I found a new channel
Sniff that fairy dust
All my bad shots are always back so for that reason I'm a mechanical guy but I do shoot 5/550 and do all the arrow tuning ECT
When I used mechanicals my bad shots were back bc I was scared of the shoulder. If you’re going to shoot mechanicals, I’d be even more religious with making the step towards high foc builds. Give that head the best possible chance of penetration possible.
dame Troy you broke my heart I am a 29 inch draw with the vxr 28 lol shoots good for me but it will for sure show you just how bad your form is. So it has helped me pay more attention to my form and grip.
For paper tuning I’ve always read that you follow the point with your rest. On your podcast you say that you follow the nock end with your rest. I’m confused. I’ll have to try it again but I’ve always gotten larger tears by adjusting my rest to nock side of a paper tear.
But I agree, in my mind it makes sense to move the point of the arrow to the right if I’m getting a nock right tear.
Tail left move rest right towards riser. Tail right move rest left away from riser. Its best to set the center shot to 13/16-7/8ths from the riser then tune with cams(top hats, Yoke, Shims). When youre in between tail left and right with the cams use the rest to micro tune. What bow are you shooting?
@@vm859 Carbon Defiant 34, Black Prime 5, Revolt X. The Revolt is new and still at the shop. Black 5 is new and I can't get a good paper tear. Carbon Defiant had some cam lean I was able to fix on the top cam as it has a yoke. My shop guy says having the arrow way left of center is normal on a Hoyt. But I still have trouble getting a bullet hole.
@@paulcrave3112 This is long but I've been in your shoes with a shop who didnt know what they were doing. OK so first off there is nothing wrong with some cam lean and its unfortunate but your shop doesnt really know what theyre talking about. I see it with a lot of shops and frustration made me get my own press and learn how to tune many years ago. All my bows usually have some degree of cam lean especially hoyts. The rest should be center shot and not moved more than a hash mark left or right. The whole point of the yoke system on hoyt is to put twists on the legs to introduce cam lean to get rid of tears. The prime has an adjustable flex gaurd for the same reason: to introduce some cam lean to get a bullet hole. You tighten down/loose the flex guard bolt and it causes the cables to increase/lessen tension left/right on the cams to introduce or reduce cam lean. Manufactures WANT YOU to add/subtract cam lean in order to get good arrow flight. I would suggest you bring your bows to someone who knows how to tune. Dont you find it odd that you have top tier flagship bows that wont tune? Steps for tuning 1 level arrow rest/nocking point 2 check cam timing 3 set center shot to 13/16 of an inch from riser 4 shoot through paper. Right tear- put one half twist in top right yoke leg and take out one half from left leg. Next shoot through paper again and keep going (dont exceed 4 FULL twist in the legs) until you get a bullet hole. The ONLY time you touch the rest is if your are in between left/right tears where one twist is too much then you micro adjust the rest. Thats how you tune a hoyt not the left of center BS your shop was selling you. Good luck sir.
Paul Crave what’s your draw length, poundage, and arrow spine?
V M thanks for the help.
I don’t have a press so I’m kinda stuck. Are you talking full twists or half twists? I did have a guy from my archery club take out some cam lean on the tip cam. He said he did a half twist on the right side and that was it. It took out the noticeable cam lean. There is no yoke on the bottom cam.
I use a crossbow with mechinal. Been thinking about fixed blade can u give me some advise on it
Great podcast!
I found that to be true with you can do all sorts of everything wrong and still seems to shoot I shoot a 542 grain arrow 200 grain tip love it 23% foc
Im shootting 44# Recurve The Arrows are 1916 Xx75 2 blade 125 Zwickey with 40 grain adapter and a regular insert 10 gr per inch. 28 inch 5 inch feather is that OK.
My mentor killed a deer at 30yrds with a 39# longbow 650 grain wood Arrow and Zwikey.
Tune your bow great advice
600 grains with 200 grain broad head 24% foc
If you work to "80 hours a week" and can't assure a quick kill bc this is a timely process, you owe it to the animal your hunting to shoot a rifle.
Awesome podcast👍👍 So, I'm late to the party ( long story), just bareshaft tuned, narrowed down my point weight, realized I had some torque in my grip- consciously working through that, am now shooting bare shaft plumb and plumb into foam at chest level at 20yards and go to order my 200 grain single bevels and guess what?
Everyone is out of single bevel broadheads!
@ #ranchfairynation
Have my name on the list with Cutthroat (ETA October 12), going to burn up my phone trying to find something similar to test with in the meantime. I'm not upset about this at all as I feel that this means Ranch Fairy is responsible for progressing the sport, and increasing Bowhunter knowledge and effectiveness= VERY COOL.
I work a 12 hour shift and have plenty of time off to hunt, so I won't go till I'm dead on satisfied and scary sharp, just wanted to share this phenomenon. I'd bet the broadhead manufacturers are collectively going W.T.F.? = AWESOMENESS
Thank you!
Texas and Florida The best country's in the world
Hey you got merch bro?
Yes sir! southerngroundhunting.com/store
@@SoCoHunt good I'll grab some
Yogi must be shooting a Prime. I just got one too. Struggling with it.
What are you struggling with? Nock low?
Nock Right
You cant just forget about speed. It varies with the animal and the distance. A 30 yard shot on a whitetail with a 400 gr arrow vs a 700 gr arrow is big difference. If you are shooting game with fast reflexes, you should find a good balance. Ranch Fairy has gotten me to raise my arrow weight, but I'm sticking with a 500 gr arrow for elk and deer at close ranges.
Do what you do man. 500 grains is perfect, better than 700 ish
Actually, he noticed a change in penetration at 500gr. There are 12 factors. Arrow weight is just one. Structural integrity of the arrow system, perfect arrow flight, FOC, razor sharp broadhead are just 4 of them. For deer he suggested 550gr 19+% FOC. I'm looking at 525gr-535gr +/-
Building my adult arrows now
To the guy who works 8-10 hour days and has a family like we ALL do! What are your priorities?! If it's going to the bar every Friday after work and spend $200 bucks, or if your kids have 12 sports between the 3 of them, or if you flop your butt on the couch and watch tv... Don't complain about other people's nicer equipment. Don't complain about how you miss deer. Don't complain about how you keep bonking deer. You are the problem.
Thats exactly right.
I don't know how many penetrating factors it's gonna take, to kill that deer ... but I know how many I'm gonna use.
You have to tune your bow. If you are shooting a well tuned bow you will smoke deers with mechanicals. That goes the same for any broad head. Tune, tune, tune
Thumbs up
Bow and crossbow are simply not fast enough to bet on speed to create the momentum on a light arrow
Lol. Ranch Fairy gets bashed at my shop too. Lol
Orcs are a little harder to kill unless you get head shots: th-cam.com/video/g4lDPBXtyic/w-d-xo.html
If you truely love Texas as you say you do then you need to listen to me very closely here. It's Whataburger.... What-A-Burger... not Waterburger.
I wonder if Tim gillingham is the pro he’s talking about.
shabbos1 That guy knows how to shoot, but he’s said some crazy stuff when hunting.
My pro shop looked at my arrows and said you been watching that ranch fairy guy , and the same thing happened to me ,the arrow went into his target up to the fletching and he said wow that is the quietest triaxx I ever heard , but he still tried to preach speed to me , but I still shoot adult arrows
Ballistics “AREN’T” that much different. Dam spell check! 😂😂
Learn how to shoot with bone structure not grip. Look up mfjj with elkshape. Proper form. Helps with everything.
I love the podcast. I am upgrading to the an adult arrow. I spoke with Ranch Fairy the other day. I just got them in today. I will upload my new video soon. Check out my TH-cam channel.
Guys your talking like you always find your arrows after you shoot I lost five arrows in Alaska last week the tundra swallowed em! But that’s not the only place I’ve not been able to find arrows! 100 bucks a head no thanks
I think you're right about what you're saying but....Ranch Fairy is really annoying to listen to.