Hey Julian, yes, steel certainly provides a great ride. I have a 1990 Bridgestone RB1 that accelerates like crazy when I hit the pedals. Really like the ride. Let me know if you have any questions. Hopefully I can answer them for you.
Thanks Blake. For these vintage bikes I usually stay with the group that it came with. Having said that, I do like the Tange. I haven’t purchased one in a while so not sure what they go for. I would think they are less expensive than Dura Ace.
@@BicycleRestorationMan thanks for the reply. I've got an 86 Repco Olympic 12 (nothing spectacular lol) and there's some rust in the race for the bearings so wanted to replace. Seems they range from $15 - $200 on ebay so I'm somewhat overwhelmed which to choose, and trying to do it affordably...
@@Blake4216 if you decide on one that’s used, make sure you look at the pictures of the races. Sometimes you can just find the races themselves and not the whole headset.
I've got 4 road bikes. Carbon, aluminum, wood and now I just turned a steel MTB from the 80's into a road bike. Steel frame and fork is the starting point. All MTB components got sold or thown away. So when I tighten the headset it's just by feel, correct? No need to be concerned about using a torque wrench?
Correct, it should be tight enough so that when you grab the fork with both hands and try to move it back and forth it does not move. Also, the handlebars should turn freely with no binding. Always check it again after riding it for a little bit. Sometimes the headset can loosen up. 👍👊
Yes, but you would have to be very careful that the race is going in straight. You can make your own tool with some fender washers, a threaded 12 inch rod and 2 nuts to match the rod. See this video. It’s one that I made for a bottom bracket but it would work for the headset as well with a 12 inch rod. th-cam.com/video/VbcI9hRuL8M/w-d-xo.html
Hi egothief, Sorry for the late reply. We are in the process of relocating and have not had a chance to reply to comments. Not sure of your question. The fork crown race can only go in one direction. The bearings are inserted so the side of the bearing cage with the most bearing exposure goes towards the headset race on the top and bottom race. Hope that makes sense.
What is it that metal piece you hammer onto the fork? I tried searching up a crown race and all I see are thin plastic pieces, that do come in 1 1/8 inch aka 28.6mm. Need help as I'm building my first bike with a threaded headset and quill stem setup. Edit : Is it the bearing for the bottom cup of the headset that goes on top of the crown race?
Nice, had steel bikes years ago and I’m now going back to one so just brushing up on old skills 👍🇬🇧
Hey Julian, yes, steel certainly provides a great ride. I have a 1990 Bridgestone RB1 that accelerates like crazy when I hit the pedals. Really like the ride. Let me know if you have any questions. Hopefully I can answer them for you.
great video!!
Louise Brandy Thanks Louise!
Great video, what affordable headset would you recommend? Thanks
Thanks Blake. For these vintage bikes I usually stay with the group that it came with. Having said that, I do like the Tange. I haven’t purchased one in a while so not sure what they go for. I would think they are less expensive than Dura Ace.
@@BicycleRestorationMan thanks for the reply. I've got an 86 Repco Olympic 12 (nothing spectacular lol) and there's some rust in the race for the bearings so wanted to replace. Seems they range from $15 - $200 on ebay so I'm somewhat overwhelmed which to choose, and trying to do it affordably...
@@Blake4216 if you decide on one that’s used, make sure you look at the pictures of the races. Sometimes you can just find the races themselves and not the whole headset.
Which tool do u use for compressing headset thanks
You can use one of these: amzn.to/3x2Outu. I use the more expensive Park tool :amzn.to/3wVVzMv
I've got 4 road bikes. Carbon, aluminum, wood and now I just turned a steel MTB from the 80's into a road bike. Steel frame and fork is the starting point. All MTB components got sold or thown away. So when I tighten the headset it's just by feel, correct? No need to be concerned about using a torque wrench?
Correct, it should be tight enough so that when you grab the fork with both hands and try to move it back and forth it does not move. Also, the handlebars should turn freely with no binding. Always check it again after riding it for a little bit. Sometimes the headset can loosen up. 👍👊
Thanks much @@BicycleRestorationMan
for those without that tool.. can a piece of wood hit gently with a hammer not help?
Yes, but you would have to be very careful that the race is going in straight. You can make your own tool with some fender washers, a threaded 12 inch rod and 2 nuts to match the rod. See this video. It’s one that I made for a bottom bracket but it would work for the headset as well with a 12 inch rod.
th-cam.com/video/VbcI9hRuL8M/w-d-xo.html
Im wondering while did i had to look like Thor when doing that
No mention of which way round the fork crown race goes, nor the bearings..
Hi egothief, Sorry for the late reply. We are in the process of relocating and have not had a chance to reply to comments. Not sure of your question. The fork crown race can only go in one direction. The bearings are inserted so the side of the bearing cage with the most bearing exposure goes towards the headset race on the top and bottom race. Hope that makes sense.
aluminum alloy is your headset bro or nah?
No, not aluminum
What is it that metal piece you hammer onto the fork? I tried searching up a crown race and all I see are thin plastic pieces, that do come in 1 1/8 inch aka 28.6mm. Need help as I'm building my first bike with a threaded headset and quill stem setup.
Edit : Is it the bearing for the bottom cup of the headset that goes on top of the crown race?
Yes, it is the bottom race that goes on top of the fork crown. Let me know if you have any other questions. 👍
You may like this playlist as well: bit.ly/bottom-bracket