Brilliant. You should not have had to do it, but I am impressed that you did. My only argument with you is that it IS an Accurascale problem. They sell the model, they should ensure that the motor is running properly. Well played Peter.
I am wondering if it's soft carbon brushes? They will wear down more quickly and the debris will also clog the motor pole gaps on the commutator. I had this with Hotpoint washing machine motor brushes back in the 90s! **Cheap Chinese component problem?*** Accurascale, please sort out this ongoing issue with the motors! Raise it with your manufacturer as it affects all your loco classes! Also Accurascale, as Richard at Roads an Rails noticed, your twin 4 ohm speaker setup in the locos is apparently wired in parallel, which means the resistive load on the DCC decoder's amplifier is lower than 4ohms at around 2.6 ohms. The ESU DCC decoder is rated at 4 to 8 ohms apparently so the sound fitted locos are in danger of blowing their decoders! Many thanks Peter for your endeavours, great video. Regards Julian
Clogged commutators (slightly semi-shorting out) are exceptionally common in the last decade from these chinese motors, in various scales - Hornby have suffered it, as well as Bachmann Farish N Gauge models. Cleaning them out, as you did, is usually the cure - it's just the problem now with modern motors is that you have to take the motor apart like you state - older designs allowed direct open access to the commutators with no dismantling.
I wonder if its is worth (with the motor dis-assembled) using a small round file to take the sharp edges off the commutator segments. This is very worrying that there is a build up of carbon between the segments after such a short time.
@@andyknott8148 Is definitely a thing. I know on real locos (actual full size diesel electrics) that the edges of commutators are profiled. I've done polishing of motor comms when running to help do this - the bonus also is that it generally drops the current consumption and allows the motor to spin a little faster. To be fair, observation on older motors where the commutators are much more exposed, shows that build up does happen, and sometimes fairly fast. It's just on those motors to clean it is 5 minutes with a cocktail stick and little dismantling, unlike the more recent sealed or semi-sealed motors where you have to pull them all apart to get access. Could be easily designed out as a problem. Dapol N gauge motors have a plastic casing around the commutator - on those I drill an access hole, so that if a motor has misbehaved in the past, it can be cleaned much easier in future - but it's a shame Dapol didn't think this when they tooled said motor.
Great job Peter, brilliant you decided to have a look inside the motor and corrected the fault, you must be well chuffed and will be a bonus if you get some more motor trouble in the future that can be fixed like those two, well done great video. Kind regards Baz
Hi Peter Great job on the 37 motor etc. Having seen Charlie's and 00rails videos I found your vid. My 37 is one of the blue BR ones and it's definitely got a similar issue with the motor slowing to a crawl then going off normally. I will now have a go at sorting it out myself. Thank you 👍 Cheers Paul
Hi Paul, hopefully I have shown you how straight forward it is to get to the motor. (you need a soldering iron) No need to think of removing the balance weights there is just enough room to get in there and clean between the plates. Just be a little gentle and try and tease back the brushes when closing the motor back up
Well done Peter, Where there is a will, there is a way. I think I have one loco that uses that type of motor and now i know what to do. Martin. (Thailand)
It must be that the brushes got dislodged due to vibration in transit! Glad you found the solution to this problem without having to send the thing back! Thanks for uploading.
Great job, you got her running nicely now! Thanks for the explanation and demonstration of what you've done to fix the motor. This video might be handy in the future in case any loco motor plays up.
One word for you peter ( genius ) Iv managed to learn a lot from your videos and done things my self from fixing the wobble on my hattons 66 , end of tail lamps , upgrading bachmann lighting boards . Keep the videos coming Regards paul
Well done Peter and very brave of you to investigate the fault and better still to have found the cure, I know it’s something we have to do to get things running nicely round our layouts but blimey doesn’t it feel great ! Nice one mate, cheers Darrell
Great video Peter. I had the same problem with all 3 of the Accurascale 37s. I sent two back to Accurascale for repair and they ran fine for a week then the motors started play up again. I followed your advice and all 3 are running brilliantly. I also had the exact same problem with my Hattons 66. I did the same to that motor and it’s now running perfectly. Thanks for the advice
Commutator Commutator Peter lol top man on the fix you’ve got a box full of spare motors to fix now 😂 you mite be tempted to come out of retirement now by a lot of manufacturers with your clever fixes cheers al
Brilliant work Peter but so much of your valuable time used up. People like me would never manage this. Thank you for all your dedication and for making the video.
Fantastic couple of vids. I am very impressed by your hands-on attitude. I remember how well you tackled the Hatton 66 'wobble' Very interesting strip down and very well done on the fix. I'm definitely getting an amp reader and have already pinched the test board idea. Cheers. Best wishes. Jon.
Thanks for this Peter great work and it is very informative. i recall you did some problem solving on the Hatton 66 when they came out. Have great weekend, all the best.
I knew what you had done before you mentioned it... It sounds as though you had what the trade call a "Dirty Motor". Give you a tip...always try to remove the springs and bruses and drop them in some IPA or WD40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Thoroughly clean the commutator but do not soak it all in IPA or you could strip the laquered windings of the armature. The contact cleaner is available in spray form and is ideal for giving the internals a quick blast-over. Make sure the motor is dry and carefully refit the brushes and springs.
Hi Collin, OK thanks, all good for now pleased to say. Because I did not strip the motor of the model itself, all the way down, it would have been a bit hard to get to the brushes but it's still running fine. Cheers Peter
All motors should be more easily accessible. Coincidentally, I've been working on just this type of servicing during the past few days. At least they've not fitted coreless motors! BFN... Colin.
Nice job Peter, bet you are happy it worked out so well. Would be a lot better if they test ran the motors before installing them at the factory since on average there must be a few faulty from the start - as in all things. But that doesn't detract from your achievement, you've made a silk purse out of a sows ear! Well done!
You know I’m sure if you can alot of motors could be repaired ,it is in these days more green if you think about it ,no waste not postage etc great work and patience too ,greetings from west London Mark 😊😊
Thank you for this, I did this with one of mine which kept speeding up slowing down and even just stopping, now it runs fine but do agree with others if this is the only fix accuascale need to sort this out as not run the loco that much for it to be clogged up
Well, excellent part 1 and 2, Peter. Nice work going through the motor and still curious as to what the problem might have been, as there are so many possibilities. Was it just this one? Random failure in the universe, then! ANyhow, Sorry you went through it, but you seem to have sorted it! Cheers!
Hi Peter, great informative video, where do Accurascale get their motors from? their class 37 project was huge, i'm sure they expected problems with them, the people who make the products are experienced workers, i don't believe all of them love their jobs and want to do their best for Accurascale, i have had no issues with mine so far other than a delicate part broke off due to poor handling on my part, i'm sure modellers will have different problems on their models, quality control is key but clearly not being implemented correctly under manufacturing processes, many thanks for what you do for the modelling community, i'm sure that in some way and form we have all gained knowledge of our trains inner workings, for me it was the Hatton's class 66 with the dodgy axel boxes that fell off, thanks for sharing mate.
Hi Peter, Dixon does it again you could say this was impressive to say the least but hope it does not happen to mine as it would have to go back to them. See you at GETS for a chin wag. Cheers Robert.
Well done and thanks for sharing! Great result! Really seems to be a QC issue with the motors from China. I hope this is not a constantly recurring problem for Accurascale? Thanks again!
Accurascale just like Hornby and Bachmann etc are only as strong as their weakest sub contracting link. They cannot possibly QC every single component so failures will be inevitable I’m afraid and they probably know this as a % of units. Whilst this is very disappointing on a personal level It is of course how they deal with the failures that counts.
It feels good when you resolve an issue Peter. Well done something to bear in mind if others have issues which you experienced, give your self a pat on the back, are you going to inform Accurascale of your finds? Is Accurascale going to give you the new motor free of charge this would be a good well gesture for this company, many thanks for sharing this video, take care regards Barry...
I found this out several weeks ago and told Accurascale. I told Peter what to do earlier in the week. Unless you change the brushes it will happen again at some point in the future. A coating is coming off the brushes and bridging the pads on the commutator. Brushes from Hornby do not have this copper coloured coating on.
@@cliffhorner Well done Cliff for resolving this issue and well done to Peter for carrying this task out. This is what I enjoy the most of this modelling community sharing and resolving problems...
Hi Peter, Great to meet you and Tony at GETS on Saturday what a busy show... I am going to have go at 3D printing some modern signs rather than North Eastern font. Does Torridon Road need one? FOC
very useful, I've just got 602 and 606 myself, had them out on the test track today, one or two minor issues, I think down to dirty wheels...? maybe track, though i did clean the track.. left them both running for a while, sound only, had one or two issues with the lights BUT I think my Gaugemaster handset is a bit 'Iffy' having not been used for a while, time will tell, but thinking of an upgrade to my DCC system, any ideas as to what may work better guys?
Love my Gaugemaster you see Im using, however I am using a DCC Concepts power supply which is renowned to give a stable steady supply and cut out protection Peter
Hi Mark, funny you ask I have just replaced two of the motors with the new ones sent by Accurascale just in the last few days, as the problem came back after many hours of running them. So I thought instead of cleaning them again, let's see what happens with the new motors. One 37 is still running fine but the two that went wrong did so within a day of each other. I will be bring this up in the next video Cheers Peter
Hi John its as I said I did not remove the flywheels on the motor of the 37. There is just enough room to get in and clean the gaps between the plates. I used another motor were I had removed the flywheel to show more clearly what I did. Cheers Peter
The most worrying bit about the process is pulling the two flywheels off and pressing them back on again. A shame you didn't show that. I hope they are not so tight, there is a chance of distorting the shafts ? PS, it may have been my company that invented the skew winding - Lucas Aerospace as was. Everyone is doing it now it seems.
Hi Andrew, I did not take of the flywheels. When you slide the shell of the motor off one side and the plastic brush holder on the other side, there is just enough of a gap to get the point of the scaple blade in to clear the gaps of the commutator. Use a cocktail stick to lift the brushes back onto the commutator when done then squeeze the motor back together again Peter
Why do these firms trains..show like a female super model, then you find she has bad breath and syphalis. We want and pay for plug and play, when will they concentrate on the drive train, and the electronics. The Finnish should be good but that still comes third in my books. And I've no time fore rivet counters. So manufacturers get your acts together and remember the golden rule of engineering.Does it work well....and will it continue to work well. Forget the looks. And add or take away a few mm, to make it run. We all know locos that are great in many senses, but have faults often due to the designer wanting it to be to ACCURATE IN SCALE TO THE UMTEENTH DEGREE. And on a personal note. Make all rolling stock fit and run on first radius curves. Well done that man again...
Kenneth I started a loft layout 40 years ago in HO scale so that meant foreign manufactures Lima, Roco, Jeof and Rivarossi. Still have them today and all work fine. All motors were serviceable. However I became interested in DCC imagine my surprise when I now encounter problems that I never had all those years ago. Here they still are.....th-cam.com/video/ZbmB13dZ3JE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cR_xq7RzvE2Vc4aO
One of my Accurascale 37s has a weird issue where sometimes when i slow it to a stop it shoots off like a rocket for 10 inches or so and then stops dead. I wonder if this method would fix that? Did yours do anything like that Peter? Cheers
Hi Dave, no not as bad as that. To make sure its the motor have you tried swapping the chip out with another first or even doing a reset on the chip. This is where some sort of meter comes in handy so you can see what power the loco is drawing and if it spikes. If you fire of an e-mail to Accurascale, they will ask for video evidence of the problem and if agreed there's a problem should send the loco back for repair or if you want send a new replacement motor out. It's an easy job to do but will involve a bit of soldering. Cheers Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 cheers for taking the time to reply Peter, I’ll try swapping the chip - I’ve done the cv8 reset which hasn’t made a difference. Cheers
th-cam.com/video/ZETSUZsHDME/w-d-xo.html Have uploaded a close up video (if you tube allows) of the commutator of one of my failed motors which confirms your theory I think
Peter, the motor whisperer!!! LOL
Brilliant. You should not have had to do it, but I am impressed that you did. My only argument with you is that it IS an Accurascale problem. They sell the model, they should ensure that the motor is running properly. Well played Peter.
I am wondering if it's soft carbon brushes? They will wear down more quickly and the debris will also clog the motor pole gaps on the commutator. I had this with Hotpoint washing machine motor brushes back in the 90s!
**Cheap Chinese component problem?***
Accurascale, please sort out this ongoing issue with the motors! Raise it with your manufacturer as it affects all your loco classes!
Also Accurascale, as Richard at Roads an Rails noticed, your twin 4 ohm speaker setup in the locos is apparently wired in parallel, which means the resistive load on the DCC decoder's amplifier is lower than 4ohms at around 2.6 ohms. The ESU DCC decoder is rated at 4 to 8 ohms apparently so the sound fitted locos are in danger of blowing their decoders!
Many thanks Peter for your endeavours, great video.
Regards Julian
Clogged commutators (slightly semi-shorting out) are exceptionally common in the last decade from these chinese motors, in various scales - Hornby have suffered it, as well as Bachmann Farish N Gauge models. Cleaning them out, as you did, is usually the cure - it's just the problem now with modern motors is that you have to take the motor apart like you state - older designs allowed direct open access to the commutators with no dismantling.
I wonder if its is worth (with the motor dis-assembled) using a small round file to take the sharp edges off the commutator segments. This is very worrying that there is a build up of carbon between the segments after such a short time.
@@andyknott8148 Is definitely a thing. I know on real locos (actual full size diesel electrics) that the edges of commutators are profiled. I've done polishing of motor comms when running to help do this - the bonus also is that it generally drops the current consumption and allows the motor to spin a little faster. To be fair, observation on older motors where the commutators are much more exposed, shows that build up does happen, and sometimes fairly fast. It's just on those motors to clean it is 5 minutes with a cocktail stick and little dismantling, unlike the more recent sealed or semi-sealed motors where you have to pull them all apart to get access. Could be easily designed out as a problem. Dapol N gauge motors have a plastic casing around the commutator - on those I drill an access hole, so that if a motor has misbehaved in the past, it can be cleaned much easier in future - but it's a shame Dapol didn't think this when they tooled said motor.
Thanks Peter.
I am pleased what I told you seems to have worked on your loco.
Great job Peter, brilliant you decided to have a look inside the motor and corrected the fault, you must be well chuffed and will be a bonus if you get some more motor trouble in the future that can be fixed like those two, well done great video. Kind regards Baz
Hi Peter
Great job on the 37 motor etc.
Having seen Charlie's and 00rails videos I found your vid.
My 37 is one of the blue BR ones and it's definitely got a similar issue with the motor slowing to a crawl then going off normally.
I will now have a go at sorting it out myself.
Thank you 👍
Cheers Paul
Hi Paul, hopefully I have shown you how straight forward it is to get to the motor. (you need a soldering iron) No need to think of removing the balance weights there is just enough room to get in there and clean between the plates. Just be a little gentle and try and tease back the brushes when closing the motor back up
Nice work. I haven’t got one, but we’ll done in sorting it.
Well done Peter, Where there is a will, there is a way. I think I have one loco that uses that type of motor and now i know what to do. Martin. (Thailand)
It must be that the brushes got dislodged due to vibration in transit! Glad you found the solution to this problem without having to send the thing back! Thanks for uploading.
Great job, you got her running nicely now!
Thanks for the explanation and demonstration of what you've done to fix the motor.
This video might be handy in the future in case any loco motor plays up.
Excellent job, well done on finding the issue.
One word for you peter ( genius )
Iv managed to learn a lot from your videos and done things my self from fixing the wobble on my hattons 66 , end of tail lamps , upgrading bachmann lighting boards .
Keep the videos coming
Regards paul
Well done Peter and very brave of you to investigate the fault and better still to have found the cure, I know it’s something we have to do to get things running nicely round our layouts but blimey doesn’t it feel great ! Nice one mate, cheers Darrell
Really glad to see all your work taking apart the loco and motor has paid off. Great job!
Great video Peter. I had the same problem with all 3 of the Accurascale 37s. I sent two back to Accurascale for repair and they ran fine for a week then the motors started play up again. I followed your advice and all 3 are running brilliantly. I also had the exact same problem with my Hattons 66. I did the same to that motor and it’s now running perfectly. Thanks for the advice
That's great news. Well done
Commutator Commutator Peter lol top man on the fix you’ve got a box full of spare motors to fix now 😂 you mite be tempted to come out of retirement now by a lot of manufacturers with your clever fixes cheers al
Very clever what you’ve done. Nice
Well done you Peter..
It was a bit of your magic..
Thank you Philip
Thanks Peter! I certainly learned a lot watching these two videos - extremely helpful.
Thanks for posting these videos, and showing what you've done. Valuable to know this.
Brilliant work Peter but so much of your valuable time used up.
People like me would never manage this. Thank you for all your dedication and for making the video.
Fantastic couple of vids. I am very impressed by your hands-on attitude. I remember how well you tackled the Hatton 66 'wobble'
Very interesting strip down and very well done on the fix. I'm definitely getting an amp reader and have already pinched the test board idea. Cheers. Best wishes. Jon.
Inspirational once again!
Well done Peter.
Looking forward to hopefully meeting you at GETS.
Cheers for now from this Pete
Thanks for this Peter great work and it is very informative. i recall you did some problem solving on the Hatton 66 when they came out. Have great weekend, all the best.
I knew what you had done before you mentioned it... It sounds as though you had what the trade call a "Dirty Motor". Give you a tip...always try to remove the springs and bruses and drop them in some IPA or WD40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Thoroughly clean the commutator but do not soak it all in IPA or you could strip the laquered windings of the armature. The contact cleaner is available in spray form and is ideal for giving the internals a quick blast-over. Make sure the motor is dry and carefully refit the brushes and springs.
Hi Collin, OK thanks, all good for now pleased to say. Because I did not strip the motor of the model itself, all the way down, it would have been a bit hard to get to the brushes but it's still running fine.
Cheers Peter
All motors should be more easily accessible. Coincidentally, I've been working on just this type of servicing during the past few days. At least they've not fitted coreless motors! BFN... Colin.
Nice job Peter, bet you are happy it worked out so well. Would be a lot better if they test ran the motors before installing them at the factory since on average there must be a few faulty from the start - as in all things. But that doesn't detract from your achievement, you've made a silk purse out of a sows ear! Well done!
You know I’m sure if you can alot of motors could be repaired ,it is in these days more green if you think about it ,no waste not postage etc great work and patience too ,greetings from west London
Mark 😊😊
Very well sorted Peter, excellent skills...Simon
Great result Pete ! have had to send 1 of my 37s back as the one end looks as if its running over a cattle grid !
brilliant couple of vids fella... and have now subscribed too
Thank you Kev Cheers Peter
Excellent result Peter, great videos part 1 and 2 take care
Good job cleaning the motor and brushes great video nice one 👍
Good results there Peter,ive been lucky on banks road non of my new accurascale failed in anyway as yet🤞🤞🤞
Thank you for this, I did this with one of mine which kept speeding up slowing down and even just stopping, now it runs fine but do agree with others if this is the only fix accuascale need to sort this out as not run the loco that much for it to be clogged up
Well done Steve, let's hope it was a bad batch. Not heard anything bad at all about the 66s
All the best Peter
Well done, good result.
Hi Peter, what a cracklng job well done all the best TONY [ GRIFFIN STATION ].
Well, excellent part 1 and 2, Peter. Nice work going through the motor and still curious as to what the problem might have been, as there are so many possibilities. Was it just this one? Random failure in the universe, then! ANyhow, Sorry you went through it, but you seem to have sorted it! Cheers!
Superb fix Peter.
Good fix Peter may try this myself if anymore of my Accurascale loco go funny again.
Great stuff 👍🏻
Hi Peter, great informative video, where do Accurascale get their motors from? their class 37 project was huge, i'm sure they expected problems with them, the people who make the products are experienced workers, i don't believe all of them love their jobs and want to do their best for Accurascale, i have had no issues with mine so far other than a delicate part broke off due to poor handling on my part, i'm sure modellers will have different problems on their models, quality control is key but clearly not being implemented correctly under manufacturing processes, many thanks for what you do for the modelling community, i'm sure that in some way and form we have all gained knowledge of our trains inner workings, for me it was the Hatton's class 66 with the dodgy axel boxes that fell off, thanks for sharing mate.
Well done
nice one Pete who would thought that mate
Hi Peter,
Dixon does it again you could say this was impressive to say the least but hope it does not happen to mine as it would have to go back to them. See you at GETS for a chin wag.
Cheers Robert.
Well done and thanks for sharing! Great result!
Really seems to be a QC issue with the motors from China. I hope this is not a constantly recurring problem for Accurascale?
Thanks again!
Accurascale just like Hornby and Bachmann etc are only as strong as their weakest sub contracting link. They cannot possibly QC every single component so failures will be inevitable I’m afraid and they probably know this as a % of units. Whilst this is very disappointing on a personal level It is of course how they deal with the failures that counts.
Great video very informative well done.👍Just ordered one myself,class 37.
It feels good when you resolve an issue Peter. Well done something to bear in mind if others have issues which you experienced, give your self a pat on the back, are you going to inform Accurascale of your finds? Is Accurascale going to give you the new motor free of charge this would be a good well gesture for this company, many thanks for sharing this video, take care regards Barry...
I found this out several weeks ago and told Accurascale. I told Peter what to do earlier in the week. Unless you change the brushes it will happen again at some point in the future. A coating is coming off the brushes and bridging the pads on the commutator. Brushes from Hornby do not have this copper coloured coating on.
@@cliffhorner Well done Cliff for resolving this issue and well done to Peter for carrying this task out. This is what I enjoy the most of this modelling community sharing and resolving problems...
Well everyday is s school day. And well done you 😀
Hi Peter, Great to meet you and Tony at GETS on Saturday what a busy show... I am going to have go at 3D printing some modern signs rather than North Eastern font. Does Torridon Road need one? FOC
very useful, I've just got 602 and 606 myself, had them out on the test track today, one or two minor issues, I think down to dirty wheels...? maybe track, though i did clean the track.. left them both running for a while, sound only, had one or two issues with the lights BUT I think my Gaugemaster handset is a bit 'Iffy' having not been used for a while, time will tell, but thinking of an upgrade to my DCC system, any ideas as to what may work better guys?
Love my Gaugemaster you see Im using, however I am using a DCC Concepts power supply which is renowned to give a stable steady supply and cut out protection
Peter
Hi Peter thanks for a super detailed video.
Is the motor issue that you repaired still ok today ?
Regards Mark
Hi Mark, funny you ask I have just replaced two of the motors with the new ones sent by Accurascale just in the last few days, as the problem came back after many hours of running them. So I thought instead of cleaning them again, let's see what happens with the new motors. One 37 is still running fine but the two that went wrong did so within a day of each other. I will be bring this up in the next video
Cheers Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 sorry to hear this…. It’s worrying times ahead for Accurascale owners
Excellent! One question though. How did you remove the flywheels???
John Harrison.
P.S. Commutator!
Hi John its as I said I did not remove the flywheels on the motor of the 37. There is just enough room to get in and clean the gaps between the plates. I used another motor were I had removed the flywheel to show more clearly what I did.
Cheers Peter
The most worrying bit about the process is pulling the two flywheels off and pressing them back on again. A shame you didn't show that. I hope they are not so tight, there is a chance of distorting the shafts ?
PS, it may have been my company that invented the skew winding - Lucas Aerospace as was. Everyone is doing it now it seems.
Hi Andrew, I did not take of the flywheels. When you slide the shell of the motor off one side and the plastic brush holder on the other side, there is just enough of a gap to get the point of the scaple blade in to clear the gaps of the commutator. Use a cocktail stick to lift the brushes back onto the commutator when done then squeeze the motor back together again
Peter
Thanks for the reply, which I can fully understand. Your technical videos are like mine, long but thorough 👍
Why do these firms trains..show like a female super model, then you find she has bad breath and syphalis. We want and pay for plug and play, when will they concentrate on the drive train, and the electronics. The Finnish should be good but that still comes third in my books. And I've no time fore rivet counters. So manufacturers get your acts together and remember the golden rule of engineering.Does it work well....and will it continue to work well. Forget the looks. And add or take away a few mm, to make it run. We all know locos that are great in many senses, but have faults often due to the designer wanting it to be to ACCURATE IN SCALE TO THE UMTEENTH DEGREE. And on a personal note. Make all rolling stock fit and run on first radius curves. Well done that man again...
Kenneth I started a loft layout 40 years ago in HO scale so that meant foreign manufactures Lima, Roco, Jeof and Rivarossi. Still have them today and all work fine. All motors were serviceable. However I became interested in DCC imagine my surprise when I now encounter problems that I never had all those years ago. Here they still are.....th-cam.com/video/ZbmB13dZ3JE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cR_xq7RzvE2Vc4aO
One of my Accurascale 37s has a weird issue where sometimes when i slow it to a stop it shoots off like a rocket for 10 inches or so and then stops dead. I wonder if this method would fix that? Did yours do anything like that Peter? Cheers
Hi Dave, no not as bad as that. To make sure its the motor have you tried swapping the chip out with another first or even doing a reset on the chip. This is where some sort of meter comes in handy so you can see what power the loco is drawing and if it spikes. If you fire of an e-mail to Accurascale, they will ask for video evidence of the problem and if agreed there's a problem should send the loco back for repair or if you want send a new replacement motor out. It's an easy job to do but will involve a bit of soldering.
Cheers Peter
@@torridonroadbypeterdixon4162 cheers for taking the time to reply Peter, I’ll try swapping the chip - I’ve done the cv8 reset which hasn’t made a difference. Cheers
th-cam.com/video/ZETSUZsHDME/w-d-xo.html
Have uploaded a close up video (if you tube allows) of the commutator of one of my failed motors which confirms your theory I think
Yes seen it David. Motor won't work well like that, that been well bridged across the gap, interesting that its not on the others.
Cheers Peter