The downside of heel shifters is that many people tend to drop the full weight of their leg onto the heel shifter when upshifting. That’s way more stress on the linkage than you could ever create by lifting up with your toe to upshift. With a spline bolt just a bit loose, that kind of repeated leg-shifting stress frequently strips out splines, and also breaks the relatively weak linkage rod connection points. No surprise at all that when you stomp on something several hundred times, it breaks.
There's several very in depth videos on this exact issue. One of the best is done by Sik Baggers. The spline should line up at the back side of the shifter arm and sit flush with the back side of the shifter arm. The Allen screw should go into the clamp hole very easily. Any resistance means the screw isn't in the groove and should be readjusted. Blue loc tite should be used when replacing all fasteners. This is an inherent issue with almost all baggers up until 2020. I have had a similar issue on an 08 Ultra Classic and my current 15 Road Glide. The latter leaving me to limp home in 1st gear. Took me an hour to ride 15 miles. 😮 (Back roads) Ride safe, keep ya knees in the breeze!
I had a similar issue (lever flopped to the floor) but it was the rear (shifter shaft) linkage arm, the one that splines onto the shifter shaft itself where it comes out of the transmission. The pinch bolt had come loose, but hadn't fallen out completely. But it was loose enough that the hardened splines of the shifter shaft had gradually 'eaten' the softer splines of the linkage arm. Eventually, the splines on the arm were worn off, and the arm could just rotate around the shaft. Let's just say it was a pain to replace the linkage arm. I now regularly check that that pinch bolt is tightened down (it's now loctited, and hasn't loosened), but still worth checking as the pot-metal arm is so damned soft and it's a difficult/impossible road-side fix... If your lever set-up ever starts getting more play and slop than usual, that could be the culprit👍
Good point, David, and I had given that a close look, but much like you’ve said, it’s indeed in a bad spot. I intend to disassemble the entire primary and transmission over the winter, playing a lot of attention to the clutch assembly, my reverse gear adapter, and the shifter pawl assembly. More info/videos are sure to come with this problem.
A little FYI. Use a small mirror and flashlight to check that the shifter is lined up correctly on the shaft. Don't shine the light straight into the hole or you can cover the end of it w/ 1 layer of an old white T shirt. Use the mirror to look in the other end of the hole. If the light is round you're good. If it's egg shaped or scalloped you're not quite there yet. The screw hole that's hard to get to. Move it to the other side. The hole is already threaded all the way through. All you need is a 1/16" - 3/16" recess w/ a reasonably flat bottom for the bolt to tighten up on. A local machinist would be great. He should be able to do it in less than 10 minutes. Question is, can y'all agree on a price for his tools & expertise? You can do it with a drill press & vise but if you're lacking experience with plumbing a hole to vertical in 2 axies it'll probably take longer to setup than to drill. Definitely use a 1/2 of a drop of Blue Loc Tite just below the head before torqueing it. An old rider w/ an old wide glide that I met had what I thought was a clever idea for controlling his heavy heel on the shifter. He used a small piece of thin sheet metal about 1-1/2" sq. Cut all 4 corners off to make an Octagon. Spruced it up w/ a file & some black paint. Drilled a #8 screw hole on opposite sides. Glued a 3/4" thick piece of closed cell foam he'd trimmed to fit between the screw heads on it then glued a 1/8" piece of rubber on top. Drill & tap the footboard and mount the pillow as he called it. Adjust the shifter as close as necessary so that you have to compress the foam to actually shift. He claimed he'd never stripped a shaft since installing the pillow. 🤷🏻♂️
haha the first of many times you'll deal with that. its a shity design and the bike vibrates it apart all the time. ive chaged the shifter arms to aluminum, replaced the the shaft that your talking about ect... if i were you id check that at least every time you change your oil . all those components are wear components that wear way faster than you think. plus harleys are Kias now made with the cheapest components. good luck. my last bike was a 71 flh that i put a half a million miles on . my current bike id a 2014 that might make 80k if im lucky and im at 50 having bout the bike 2 years ago with 5200 miles on it but im f,$%,king with something weekly. wait till all the electrical stuff starts to go. my next bike will not be a harley as they no longer care about quality parts. they sourse them from wherever in the world they can get them the cheapest, at least 1/3 Chinese. ps if you haven't look yet check the actual shift arm (on trans) for obstruction. oh and try coopers its cheap (30$) 100 proof and it'll gret you there faster haha
This is a normal thing for a Hardly ableson. Parts literally falling off the bike happens all the time. You won't have those problems with any other motorcycle. And to think, these setups have been use by Hardly Ableson for decades. And they still can't get it right. Just like the newest flagship engine, the M8. Has a piece of crap oiling system. Hardlys are Junk!
The downside of heel shifters is that many people tend to drop the full weight of their leg onto the heel shifter when upshifting. That’s way more stress on the linkage than you could ever create by lifting up with your toe to upshift. With a spline bolt just a bit loose, that kind of repeated leg-shifting stress frequently strips out splines, and also breaks the relatively weak linkage rod connection points. No surprise at all that when you stomp on something several hundred times, it breaks.
There's several very in depth videos on this exact issue. One of the best is done by Sik Baggers. The spline should line up at the back side of the shifter arm and sit flush with the back side of the shifter arm. The Allen screw should go into the clamp hole very easily. Any resistance means the screw isn't in the groove and should be readjusted. Blue loc tite should be used when replacing all fasteners. This is an inherent issue with almost all baggers up until 2020. I have had a similar issue on an 08 Ultra Classic and my current 15 Road Glide. The latter leaving me to limp home in 1st gear. Took me an hour to ride 15 miles. 😮 (Back roads)
Ride safe, keep ya knees in the breeze!
I concur with you completely... 👍🏼
I had a similar issue (lever flopped to the floor) but it was the rear (shifter shaft) linkage arm, the one that splines onto the shifter shaft itself where it comes out of the transmission. The pinch bolt had come loose, but hadn't fallen out completely. But it was loose enough that the hardened splines of the shifter shaft had gradually 'eaten' the softer splines of the linkage arm.
Eventually, the splines on the arm were worn off, and the arm could just rotate around the shaft. Let's just say it was a pain to replace the linkage arm. I now regularly check that that pinch bolt is tightened down (it's now loctited, and hasn't loosened), but still worth checking as the pot-metal arm is so damned soft and it's a difficult/impossible road-side fix...
If your lever set-up ever starts getting more play and slop than usual, that could be the culprit👍
Good point, David, and I had given that a close look, but much like you’ve said, it’s indeed in a bad spot. I intend to disassemble the entire primary and transmission over the winter, playing a lot of attention to the clutch assembly, my reverse gear adapter, and the shifter pawl assembly. More info/videos are sure to come with this problem.
I replaced mine with heavy duty Ball joints and a heavier shaft. Smoother shifts and bullet proof.
A little FYI.
Use a small mirror and flashlight to check that the shifter is lined up correctly on the shaft. Don't shine the light straight into the hole or you can cover the end of it w/ 1 layer of an old white T shirt. Use the mirror to look in the other end of the hole. If the light is round you're good. If it's egg shaped or scalloped you're not quite there yet.
The screw hole that's hard to get to. Move it to the other side. The hole is already threaded all the way through. All you need is a 1/16" - 3/16" recess w/ a reasonably flat bottom for the bolt to tighten up on. A local machinist would be great. He should be able to do it in less than 10 minutes. Question is, can y'all agree on a price for his tools & expertise? You can do it with a drill press & vise but if you're lacking experience with plumbing a hole to vertical in 2 axies it'll probably take longer to setup than to drill. Definitely use a 1/2 of a drop of Blue Loc Tite just below the head before torqueing it.
An old rider w/ an old wide glide that I met had what I thought was a clever idea for controlling his heavy heel on the shifter. He used a small piece of thin sheet metal about 1-1/2" sq. Cut all 4 corners off to make an Octagon. Spruced it up w/ a file & some black paint. Drilled a #8 screw hole on opposite sides. Glued a 3/4" thick piece of closed cell foam he'd trimmed to fit between the screw heads on it then glued a 1/8" piece of rubber on top. Drill & tap the footboard and mount the pillow as he called it. Adjust the shifter as close as necessary so that you have to compress the foam to actually shift. He claimed he'd never stripped a shaft since installing the pillow. 🤷🏻♂️
Had the same thing happen on my 2013 Roadglide Ultra.... I check that set screw before every ride now....
I took the stock shifter linkage off becoz I found out they are subject to failure.. bought a solid linkage that bolts both ends
I keep the stock linkage in a saddlebag in case I run across someone who has a problem with theirs...
👍🏼 Is there a particular brand or vendor?
@@whiskeymechanic No. I got one from Ebay several styles to choose from.. its billet aluminum I believe
@@whiskeymechanic HD , Kuryakyn, or other accessory business should them if u dont want to use Ebay..
That stock linkage Will fail you at some point
Another defect of Harley Davidson being so cheap. Mine did that.
Bummer… that really sucks when you’re rolling down the road!
haha the first of many times you'll deal with that. its a shity design and the bike vibrates it apart all the time. ive chaged the shifter arms to aluminum, replaced the the shaft that your talking about ect... if i were you id check that at least every time you change your oil . all those components are wear components that wear way faster than you think. plus harleys are Kias now made with the cheapest components. good luck. my last bike was a 71 flh that i put a half a million miles on . my current bike id a 2014 that might make 80k if im lucky and im at 50 having bout the bike 2 years ago with 5200 miles on it but im f,$%,king with something weekly. wait till all the electrical stuff starts to go. my next bike will not be a harley as they no longer care about quality parts. they sourse them from wherever in the world they can get them the cheapest, at least 1/3 Chinese. ps if you haven't look yet check the actual shift arm (on trans) for obstruction. oh and try coopers its cheap (30$) 100 proof and it'll gret you there faster haha
Ironically, having a drink of Coopers’ Craft as I read your reply. Is it the same distillery you’re referring to? This one is slightly over 82 proof.
@@whiskeymechanic im a scotch guy myself but cooper in the cylindrical bottle. some chick at the abc turned me on to it. its good.
Have one in the cabinet. I buy them two at a time
This is a normal thing for a Hardly ableson. Parts literally falling off the bike happens all the time. You won't have those problems with any other motorcycle. And to think, these setups have been use by Hardly Ableson for decades. And they still can't get it right. Just like the newest flagship engine, the M8. Has a piece of crap oiling system. Hardlys are Junk!
Well, I’m betting everything that this was human error, but also… H-D will probably always leave room for improvements.