With these older bikes it's always good to check the clutch basket finger that the clutch plates slide through. These fingers will get wear groves in them and cause the clutch plates to not be able to slide and separate freely. If this happens you can take a file and carefully file them smooth again.
That is indeed an issue on older bikes. Filing the fingers is a solution, if you do it with long file and the right angle and over the whole length of each finger)
I had a similar issue on my bike, It was the Cluch basket, it had developed notches that prevented the clutch stack to move where it would get stuck on a notch.
Had a 81 Shovelhead i rode for over 20 years. one time i had to keep readjusting my clutch. took kicker side off and thrust bearing shot, which lead to no push rod spinning; and it literally ground about a 1/8 inch off the end of the push rod. so new bearing and rod fixed it up toot sweet.
First thing I check ,if it not something obvious is the fluid level on primary to make sure it's not to full because it will do everything you said it is doing if it's to full. Grabbing, can't find neutral, slam into gear, etc. It's the easiest check and you never know on a bike you just got.
Good point. I changed the primary fluid and I’m 99% sure I overfilled it. I still think the easy pull lever needed to come out but I should have started the diagnosis with checking the primary fluid level.
I have owned 4 Harley Davidson and they all need a little RPM to find Neutral its the design the ratchet shift drum in the trans and the drive gear . my 1986 FLT , my 1990 1200 xl , my 1950 pan , my 1995 road king rev to 2000 rpm and it hit N every time .
Check tension on chain, primary, if its too tight it binds input shaft where gears ride, slide, when you blip throttle it kind-of loosens everything up a little
I know this is old but I'm just seeing this maybe I can help someone out. Yes! some models need rpm to find neutral. Another major culprit is primary oil level. it should just touch the bottom diaphragm plate when filling. If too full the oil will cause the clutches to stick together and not disengage the clutches pack.
on my 4 speed had the same trouble untill i turned in the clutch adjuster 1/4 turn and that fixed it. always fun sitting at a light that takes forever..lol
the extension reduces torque needed (effort) thanks to longer lever distance, but the disengagement is less for the same clutch lever distance. If very precisely tuned those clutch extensions disengage easier but over a longer clutch actuation distance. some riders prefer shorter response others the long clutch move. And the probability to be out of tune is more critical.
I just installed a Barnette extra plate clutch pack and heavier clutch spring in my 2006 Electraglide. The pull on the clutch lever was brutal so I installed a Muller power clutch, now the lbs. pull is about the same as the OEM clutch ramp assembly was but now I can't find neutral. I've gone back and set both the adjustments at the pressure plate (1/4 turn)and the cable (Just 1/8" free play). That's as close as I think possible without compromising the throw-out bearing (having it constantly engaged), but still no luck. If I could find a clutch lever that stood out from the grip a bit more, it would afford me a bit more length of pull that I'm sure would fix this but I still haven't found one. Also, I like to use two or three fingers at the lever, now I can't because my little finger gets pinched between the lever and handle grip and robs another quarter inch of lever travel. Suggestions?
Get rid of those levers… the kuryaken skull levers cause problems because they don’t fit perfectly. I had those because they didn’t have a matching set for the Willie g skull collection. Which is what I went with on my breakout. And I had all the same issues. But I put new bars and cables on and adjusted clutch and problem went away about 95% still hard into gear but stopped dragging bike forward and made neutral easy to find
Good to know. I was slightly suspicious about the lever and grips. After finding the ez pull mech in it and watching the Baker video I was pretty convinced it was the ex pull extension. I think the remaining issue was due to fluid level.
@@twinsmotogarage1866 oh yes, the fluid level was also an issue with mine. The lever wouldn’t engage the clutch switch in the housing, so I could only start the bike in neutral. Switched levers and I can start it in gear now.
After adjusting your clutch Check the shift rod that goes from your foot shifter to the transmission to make sure the Transmission tongs are in the correct position (According to the manual). Sometimes I've had to screw the shift rod adjustment a little to match what the manual specifies which makes hitting neutral much easer
Worn spline gears not matching uo,worn main shaft bearing,main gear shaft travel from wear to far more or less from prime seat position due to wear at the cover plate seat area maybe,just worn bushings and race and bearings around travel shafts...?
I wonder if my 1990 883 is same as this. I just installed a new cable and now i cant get neutral when squeezing the clutch lever. It will go into neutral on the pedal though
I have this same problem on my 06 softail but I don't have that little aftermarket piece..same problem not enough throw to disengage the clutch..not sure where to go from here
steel-braided cables stretch and don't allow for complete disengagement. sometimes you need to reduce the lever freeplay. tighten cable adjustment. also 1/2 turn out @ clutch
Thanks for the comment. I put the full quart. The level looked ok but I will have to go back and double check. Here is what the book says, "Do not overfill the primary chaincase with lubricant. Overfilling can cause rough clutch engagement, incomplete disengagement, clutch drag and/or difficulty in finding neutral at engine idle." I bet that is causing the remainder of my issue.
I can't get neutral in my evo w 5speed unless I'm almost stopped so I just adjusted the clutch n cable I'm about to ajust the pawl adjustment before I dig deeper
I have the same problem of not getting enough travel when I pull in my clutch cable I just put a new cable on there and there wasn’t the aftermarket spacer that you had. Any suggestions to get more movement from the clutch plates when I pull in the clutch
The spacers did not fix my issue. Removing the extension on the clutch ramp and correcting the fluid level was the fix. But since you asked, here is a link to it on amazon. amzn.to/41oinkZ
@@Rambolishus The main “fix” was removing the aftermarket easy pull lever. That lever is essentially an extension that bolts to the factory clutch release ramp. While the part made the clutch pull lighter, it stopped the clutch from getting its full range of motion and the clutch would never disengage. The remaining issue of having to blip the throttle to find neutral was due to overfilled primary.
Was it working before you replaced the clutch? Are you sure you took all the old plates out? If you installed an extra plate kit did you remove the spring plate?
With these older bikes it's always good to check the clutch basket finger that the clutch plates slide through. These fingers will get wear groves in them and cause the clutch plates to not be able to slide and separate freely. If this happens you can take a file and carefully file them smooth again.
That is indeed an issue on older bikes. Filing the fingers is a solution, if you do it with long file and the right angle and over the whole length of each finger)
I had a similar issue on my bike, It was the Cluch basket, it had developed notches that prevented the clutch stack to move where it would get stuck on a notch.
Had a 81 Shovelhead i rode for over 20 years. one time i had to keep readjusting my clutch. took kicker side off and thrust bearing shot, which lead to no push rod spinning; and it literally ground about a 1/8 inch off the end of the push rod. so new bearing and rod fixed it up toot sweet.
First thing I check ,if it not something obvious is the fluid level on primary to make sure it's not to full because it will do everything you said it is doing if it's to full. Grabbing, can't find neutral, slam into gear, etc.
It's the easiest check and you never know on a bike you just got.
Good point. I changed the primary fluid and I’m 99% sure I overfilled it. I still think the easy pull lever needed to come out but I should have started the diagnosis with checking the primary fluid level.
Good video, I watched B. Baker’s video awhile back and yours is a great example of what he was talking about.
I have owned 4 Harley Davidson and they all need a little RPM to find Neutral its the design the ratchet shift drum in the trans and the drive gear . my 1986 FLT , my 1990 1200 xl , my 1950 pan , my 1995 road king rev to 2000 rpm and it hit N every time .
Check tension on chain, primary, if its too tight it binds input shaft where gears ride, slide, when you blip throttle it kind-of loosens everything up a little
My tension is slack on mine and my clutch went out now idk what to do
I know this is old but I'm just seeing this maybe I can help someone out. Yes! some models need rpm to find neutral. Another major culprit is primary oil level. it should just touch the bottom diaphragm plate when filling. If too full the oil will cause the clutches to stick together and not disengage the clutches pack.
on my 4 speed had the same trouble untill i turned in the clutch adjuster 1/4 turn and that fixed it. always fun sitting at a light that takes forever..lol
Great video! Sounds ike PO just didn't want to deal with his issue, can't believe he rode it like that. Glad you got it fixed, very informative.👍
good job on finding the trouble and fixing it...cheers
the extension reduces torque needed (effort) thanks to longer lever distance, but the disengagement is less for the same clutch lever distance. If very precisely tuned those clutch extensions disengage easier but over a longer clutch actuation distance. some riders prefer shorter response others the long clutch move. And the probability to be out of tune is more critical.
I just installed a Barnette extra plate clutch pack and heavier clutch spring in my 2006 Electraglide. The pull on the clutch lever was brutal so I installed a Muller power clutch, now the lbs. pull is about the same as the OEM clutch ramp assembly was but now I can't find neutral. I've gone back and set both the adjustments at the pressure plate (1/4 turn)and the cable (Just 1/8" free play). That's as close as I think possible without compromising the throw-out bearing (having it constantly engaged), but still no luck. If I could find a clutch lever that stood out from the grip a bit more, it would afford me a bit more length of pull that I'm sure would fix this but I still haven't found one. Also, I like to use two or three fingers at the lever, now I can't because my little finger gets pinched between the lever and handle grip and robs another quarter inch of lever travel. Suggestions?
Is your grip extremely fat and stopping the lever from being fully pulled in? Have you checked primary fluid level?
Fit std levers and new clutch cable,could be stretching and the levers might not be giving enough pull
Right fluid level and change primary fluid if no good the basket
One other items be careful what kind of a 50 Ways fluid to put in the primary because some of them cause the clutch to drag
idk if you got the answer yet but i think its your shifter lever. get a good one.
Try using ATF fluid type f preferably grips hard works for me you will be surprised
Get rid of those levers… the kuryaken skull levers cause problems because they don’t fit perfectly. I had those because they didn’t have a matching set for the Willie g skull collection. Which is what I went with on my breakout. And I had all the same issues. But I put new bars and cables on and adjusted clutch and problem went away about 95% still hard into gear but stopped dragging bike forward and made neutral easy to find
Good to know. I was slightly suspicious about the lever and grips. After finding the ez pull mech in it and watching the Baker video I was pretty convinced it was the ex pull extension. I think the remaining issue was due to fluid level.
@@twinsmotogarage1866 oh yes, the fluid level was also an issue with mine. The lever wouldn’t engage the clutch switch in the housing, so I could only start the bike in neutral. Switched levers and I can start it in gear now.
After adjusting your clutch Check the shift rod that goes from your foot shifter to the transmission to make sure the Transmission tongs are in the correct position (According to the manual). Sometimes I've had to screw the shift rod adjustment a little to match what the manual specifies which makes hitting neutral much easer
I have a 2008 ultra classic. Mine is doing the opposite. New clutch, new cable. Adjusted and still slipping. IDK
If u have to put all those spacers in the cable change the cable
Try the minimum AMT of primary fluid
Worn spline gears not matching uo,worn main shaft bearing,main gear shaft travel from wear to far more or less from prime seat position due to wear at the cover plate seat area maybe,just worn bushings and race and bearings around travel shafts...?
Damn dude... you have good info. Get a tripod
I wonder if my 1990 883 is same as this. I just installed a new cable and now i cant get neutral when squeezing the clutch lever. It will go into neutral on the pedal though
I can only 7 plates instead of 8 on a heritage Softail 2003
I have this same problem on my 06 softail but I don't have that little aftermarket piece..same problem not enough throw to disengage the clutch..not sure where to go from here
Where can I find a piece like that piece u removed?
steel-braided cables stretch and don't allow for complete disengagement. sometimes you need to reduce the lever freeplay. tighten cable adjustment. also 1/2 turn out @ clutch
for a new clutch rod in
Clutch hub bearing in the clutch basket
Can you elaborate?
And primary chain adjustment
Well your clutch lever is way to loose. you need maybe a 1/16th of an inch play at cltch lever.
WTH is the name of the part you replaced 😂
How much oil in the primary? Those same symptoms will occur if overfull.
Thanks for the comment. I put the full quart. The level looked ok but I will have to go back and double check. Here is what the book says, "Do not overfill the primary chaincase with lubricant. Overfilling can cause rough clutch engagement, incomplete disengagement, clutch drag and/or difficulty in finding neutral at engine idle." I bet that is causing the remainder of my issue.
I can't get neutral in my evo w 5speed unless I'm almost stopped so I just adjusted the clutch n cable I'm about to ajust the pawl adjustment before I dig deeper
Also if the clutch was maladjusted for a long time it would wear that clutch rod
So i may have missed something but you took the piece the cable attached to completely off, or just replaced it with a new one?
What're the parts called that the bolt adjuster and push rod screw into? Mine broke
Release plate
I have the same problem of not getting enough travel when I pull in my clutch cable I just put a new cable on there and there wasn’t the aftermarket spacer that you had. Any suggestions to get more movement from the clutch plates when I pull in the clutch
I’ll link a few videos from Baker. Definitely recommend watching those.
th-cam.com/video/PzpW8jQtQJA/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/_8tDqf_qrFM/w-d-xo.html
Try going to Amsoil gear oil for Harley's in your transmission.
Having same issuw
It could be your compensator going bad.
How do you figure?
It's your grips bruh
Metti olio 85w140
Where did u get the clutch cable spacers? I’m having similar issue & i think that may be the solution
The spacers did not fix my issue. Removing the extension on the clutch ramp and correcting the fluid level was the fix. But since you asked, here is a link to it on amazon. amzn.to/41oinkZ
@@twinsmotogarage1866 wait so dont get any spacers? You just fixed the oil level?
@@Rambolishus The main “fix” was removing the aftermarket easy pull lever. That lever is essentially an extension that bolts to the factory clutch release ramp. While the part made the clutch pull lighter, it stopped the clutch from getting its full range of motion and the clutch would never disengage. The remaining issue of having to blip the throttle to find neutral was due to overfilled primary.
Even with the spacers the clutch did not fully disengage.
same pb 4 me
что б..я, бред
I replaced the clutch plates and 91 softail, put it back together, put the bike in gear, and it rolls like it was in neutral. Need advice please
Was it working before you replaced the clutch? Are you sure you took all the old plates out? If you installed an extra plate kit did you remove the spring plate?