ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2017
- *LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE IF YOU ARE DOWN WITH MY WAREZ!*
-Follow me on Twitter: / voultar_modshop
-Website: voultar.com
In this installment, we tear down a Japanese PC-E Duo that has never been properly serviced. I spend most of the video talking about PCB cleaning and how it's imperative that corrosive electrolytic fluid be removed from a main-board before the replacement of any components. I filmed the ending out of sequence, so there are 3 capacitors missing! That's just what I get! - เกม
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I purchased a PC Engine Duo the other day from Ebay from a Japanese seller. When i finally get it, i am following your video Voultar, to the tee! Thank you for a great video! I have watched videos most of the day, of people doing this Cap replacement. I was getting bits an pieces from them all. I like the way you did it, especially with the Hot Air. That is the best way for sure! I will message you back here on this Video if i am successful. I hope it has no other issues,but we will see! Thanks!
You're like the Bob Ross of Capacitor replacement.
We're just gonna put a happy little capacitor right here.
The iron sizzling in the flux is just like the sound of brushstrokes on a canvas
27:30
Bob Ross never used curse words so no.
NextLevel Gamez Bob Ross couldn’t curse cause he was on television. I’m sure he did off TV
I wanted to see you test the console after the rework, anyway. Thank you for schooling all of us with the repair on this console. Respect.
Your attention to detail is damn near unmatched! Very clean and professional work! Only other TH-camr I can think of that’s just as good is Game-Tech US. You guys both do fantastic work with no hack jobs.
On a scale of one to even, I'm strapped in.
Seriously: Prep work is the most important thing, and if there's something that's going to eat away the foundation of your board, you need to eradicate the "cancer" that'll kill your classic game system. I'm a firm believer these things are pedestals and foundations of parts of our culture and need to be preserved!
So therapeutic watching this. If I ever take the plunge and buy a Duo this is the man who’ll be working on it.
The motherboard cleaning was insanely satisfying to me. Great video!
i figured it out after watching half your videos: you're 10% weird. of course, all people are at least a little weird across the board, but your weirdness is segregated - one in ten jokes you tell goes creepy/bizarre. but you're so charming & delightful that the creepiness plays. well done, new youtuber i adore. well done indeed.
My preferred method for SMD cap removal, or any two lead SMD component, is dual-wielding two soldering irons. I use my main iron in one hand and a cheapy old iron in the other. Reason why I like this is it's the quickest in general (you just heat both sides and flick 'em off), and much quicker than hot-air for when there's a lot of plastic stuff in the area that's prone to melting. It's also good for removal of caps you intend to reuse (instead of tossing), since you don't damage the plastic base. I got no issues with hot air, but just providing another option in case anyone is interested. And, I agree, please don't use the flush-cutter method.
Ste Kulov I noticed the fluid too. I was also going to ask about it. Great video with many pointers.
Akimbo soldering irons haha, good idea actually. I also saw a guy make a DIY hot tweezers....He used an old soldering iron, etched a circular indent around the middle of the iron tip, and twisted up some copper wire in the shape of a tweezers. Because the copper wire was wrapped tightly around the iron, it heated up and acted as a hot tweezers. Seemed to work pretty well!
After i go through some of your videos, finally understood what is board washing, it toke lots of efforts and patients, but it is necessary.
Probably your best video so far Voultar. Well spoken, well filmed and you didn't skip a single thing it feels to me. Perfect amount of voice over. Makes me really look forward to my next soldering mission. Also looking forwards to your next videos! Keep up the great work.
Your best practice approach is admirable. I like how it takes precedence over your awesome humor when it matters.
anyone else find these videos soothing? he has a great sense of humor and sounds very calming, and watching the cleanup of tech actually relaxes you haha
Watching you clean the guck off the board was oddly satisfying. Was like a warm blanket came over me as a negative energy was removed
A neat and cheap little tool for cleaning between a bunch of small components (like small capacitor or resistor banks, and even under chips) would be a soft-bristle (or medium) pipe cleaner (also called a gun barrel brush by some people). They get into places normal brushes just can't, like almost paper-thin gaps and even underneath components. Great for knocking out dust, debris, and for cleaning off fluids from those really tight places that you may or may not be able to see.
Voultar, great video! I'm ordering the hot-air rework station right now! I love the fact that you provide excellent advice when working with retro-console electronics. Keep the content coming!
I know it's kinda old news now but I just wanted to thank you for posting that video about the scart cables with the sync boost chips. Turns out I have one and fortunately I've mostly been using my genesis with my pvm and not the framemeister. I'm glad someone looked into this, I just never questioned safety of it.
I absolutely love how you baby all the products you work on.
If I ever want to get anything done, you're gonna be on the top of my list!
Awesome channel for us kids from the 80's and 90's. Thanks so much for keeping these old beasts alive.
I'm looking to start repairing electronics as a hobby and this channel has been really helpful and inspirational. Thanks for taking the time to document all of your hard work.
I normally use a heat gun to remove SMD components, but with these Duos the caps that are badly corroded often require more direct heat to remove with any speed. For those I will clip the capacitor off well above the connectors, then go back and remove the bottom of the capacitor with tweezers which exposes the leads and surface pads for final cleanup with a soldering iron. I never flush cut an SMD cap at the board.
Also motivated me to check out my Duo-R to see what it's caps looked like. Imagine my surprise when I discovered the later released system uses all TH caps, with not an SMD in sight.
Just yesterday morning I was on Console5 looking at getting some cap kits for some Atari Lynxes I'm working on and thought, "I wonder what Our Great Lord Voultar thinks of the kits on this site." Asked and answered. Our Lord is good, and works in mysterious ways.
KyoshoLP this makes me think I should change the caps on my Atari Lynx. I’ve already done McWill screen mod, but never change the caps.
You must recap your Duos, people. Great video, I picked up several great new techniques as always when I watch you work. Just ordered a nylon scratch brush too :D
Voultar (and Smoke), any idea if the the SuperGrafx needs a recap? I just acquired two of them, with no mod work (no RGB or recap) and they work fine, unlike any Duos I've ever gotten. Did they solve the cheap cap problems by the time the SG came out? I don't want to spend any money on this right now if it doesn't need it. Also, if the SG is modded for RGB, does that me the CD games will also output RGB when the attachment is added? Thanks for any answers and for the video!
You *may* not have leak issues with it but these caps are still 25+ years old anyway and will soon fail. Why take any risks? Console5 cap kits use the best caps on the market and they will likely last longer than the originals. Think long term and remember that this is a one off purchase for 30 y are of comfort and serenity. ;)
I just recapped a Turbo Express this weekend (among fixing other issues like buttons not working) and this is not a joke. Please recap everything even if it looks OK. The board I worked on was very clean looking before pulling the caps. After i pulled them quite a few of the caps had vented and were starting to rot the pads. I also had to fix the trace for button 1 due to that cap venting right next to the carbon traces. And, yes, agreed about the nylon scratch brush. I used it for the first time actually to fix that button 1 issue and it worked amazingly well.
SmokeMonster you meant a fibreglass pen, no nylon in site..lol
Didn't knew that electronic job is that interesting. The process you were cleaning the board with toothbrush and fiber-glass pen is so mind-curing! Thanks!
I think this is your best video yet! I recently recapped my Sega CD model 1 (which also had terrible leaking SMD caps) and I'm pretty relieved to see I actually used a lot of your techniques!! :D
Thanks Voultar!!! Followed your steps and removed those smt caps with a hot air station!
I have an Onkyo AV-Amp I need to recap the HDMI board for and was looking to go with the twisty method shown in the videos for that issue, now thanks to your most excellent video I'll be breaking out my hot air station instead. Thanks for the warning :)
Great video! Thorough as hell...I watch your videos for the same reason i watch other craft masters on youtube, killer technique and a rather OCD work ethic. Keep on showing your process! people love watching a master at work!
rewatching this video for fun but the information on show is fantastic i've used this approach for replacing SMDS on gamegear audio boards ever since.
There is an even more evil method I've seen plenty of times on TH-cam - people TWISTING the SMD caps off the board. :o
I used the flush-cut method on my own stuff before, but many many years ago, before I got a hot air station (Aoyue 852).
There is an argument against replacing SMD caps with through-hole.
The longer legs of through-hole caps could cause more vibrational stress on the pads (over time), and also puts a bit more strain on then during soldering.
It's probably fine though as long as the legs of the new caps are pre-formed well, so the caps can lay flat on the board (where possible).
That's assuming the outer wrapper of the caps aren't conductive.
The caps on the Game Gear, as bad as they are, do have the little plastic cages around them, and are usually flat to the PCB (sometimes with a mild glue).
That keeps them from moving around, and putting strain on the pads.
Idk how but these videos are so relaxing and motivating at the same time
Wish I encountered you and your videos earlier. Love you work.
love to sit and watch you work, great video and very informative. thanks for sharing :)
I bought the same 858-D and it works great for general smd work. I haven’t had one issue with it
As the owner of a handful of late 80s to mid 90s Macintosh computers, I know the importance of replacing leaky capacitors. A large percentage of Macintosh SE/30 and LC/LCII/LCIII computers have been rendered non-functional by leaky capacitors, leaky CMOS batteries, or both.
Macintosh Classic and Classic II as well, oops. Those two are extremely notorious for being DOA in the modern age.
I was hyped for this since you posted it on twitter! :D
But did you strap on?
Kapton is actually a very good thermal conductor. It *does* work to protect plastic components from melting under hot air, but not because it's a thermal insulator--it's very much the opposite.
I think the usefulness is just because it prevents the hot air from *directly* contacting the plastic, it has to go through the kapton first which will spread the heat out. It also absorbs any IR radiation similarly.
love all your videos, but would love 2 min at the end of you showing the product working, i dont even know half of what you are working on but i do love watching! subbed for sure
34:21 @ C884 methinks Voultar was a little hurried in his removal of this beastie. The impression of the cap legs left in the solder indicates it was only *just* beginning to wet... (Not a dig, most of my GG caps came off like that! Just an observation as I sit here with toothache trying to distract myself with lovely repairs).
Excellent work Voultar and very precise tutorial.
Great vid I loved the fiberglass pen! I'm gonna have to pick one up
As always a pleasure watching your work!
Ask your friend Joe R about problems with his Duo R, he was streaming Dracula X the other day and game was resetting on him.
Aw man that board cleaned up very well, The only REAL damage was around C515's pad. Although, I thought the passive capacitor at C261 was a goner because of the discoloration of the casing. Then I saw C262 was the same color but didn't really have much noted contact with the electrolytic fluid. This could have been so much worse. A great clean up!!!
Voultar, RGmods thank you, you made me improve my techniques through the years indeed and gave my mind a fetish like state all the time while repairing and modding! Thank you buddy, really!
When heating to remove a component you can pay attention to the surface of the solder, when it is up to temp the surface changes texture
I LOVE Console5! They even have a cap replacement diagram for the CD32 which actually has a cap that shows the wrong polarity on the board.
I did a cap job (first service it ever had - it already failed) on one of those a few months back. Terrible corrosion, more via and track repairs than i've ever had to do on a board.
Worked though.
Excellent advice on smd cap removal. Thanks :)
I use cotton swabs soaked in IPA for cleaning under the caps, they take the dirt and acid residuals with them, on the other hand the tooth brush just spreads the dried cap fluids around, the board may look clean but actually much of the dirt and cap fluid is still there, just in a thin layer you can't see.
I need a shirt with a pic of soldering action with the words "Just like that"
There's doing a job right, and then there's doing a proper great job, and this is how you do proper repair to electronics.
It's actually a shame that there's no available replacement main boards for some of these systems especially because it would help in repair work when you have such severe board rot from leaked electrolytic fluid, that replacing the main board is pretty much the only option left.
Great vid Voultar starting watching a couple of months ago picked up a few techniques from you wondering what do you think about ceramic caps instead of surface mount
I know purists would get a little upset but I would just use through hole caps in the place of all those surface mount. Build up a nice pillow of solder and it grabs onto the leg nicely then you can leave it upright or bend it down if you have low height clearance, easy to tell if it's leaking in the future and much easier to replace for the next guy.
Is the amber material on the board just rosin flux? Does that need to be cleaned up? Should we clean it up?
Been going through your videos ...you have some great content the only additional thing i would do is go through with a bit of baking soda mixed with ipa to stop any chemical reaction from the leaking caps
You're like the Ryan Reynolds of console mods.
Thanks for this video, lots of labor involved. Do you have a resource for the potentiometer calibration setting and debug? I’ve not found a solid reference and I’m thinking about picking a Duo with CD read issues for myself.
Are you dipping the fresh SMD caps in flux before you're installing them? There seems to be fluid spreading when placing, then but I can't tell for sure. Also, what desoldering braid do you recommend and are you also dipping that in your own flux? And finally, any recommendations for decent fiberglass pens?
I found the pen he's using on eBay listed as "Economy Fiberglass Scratch Brush"
I would love for you to re-cap mine, but seeing you don't do it anymore I'm going to give it a shot myself. I've got a nice Weller iron, a Hakko desoldering tool for the through hole stuff, and a cheapo rework station. Now all I need to do is build courage.
I'm sure you've seen folks replace the surface mount caps with leaded caps. How do you feel about that? I'm wondering if it's any more or less difficult.
Hi Voultar, Would it be acceptable to use an iron in conjunction with the hot air station, like iron on one pad and hot air on the other pad, when both solder joints are nicely molten, push the cap out with the iron? Do you see any issues with that method?
@Voultar I'd appreciate your thoughts on something regards board cleansing. I know IPA is the standard and a very useful tool BUT what about automotive brake/clutch cleaner? Coming into the electronics hobby via my cars & the increasing use of electronics in those, brake cleaner has been my go-to solvent for years on a lot of things. Generally it used to be Trichlorothene but I don't recall what they use now in some (I'm able to get the Trich still, just keep from smoking near the stuff if you enjoy life!). Anyway, I find these products really handy especially in aerosol cans and wondering what your take is, IPA is cheap and plentiful but for sluicing off a board after the detailed cleansing would you say there's any value to an aerosol of brake cleaner?
Thank you for this Voultar, very informative video! In general, is there any harm in replacing surface mount caps with through-hole style caps (for example, cutting and bending their legs to fit the solder pads)?
No harm whatsoever. You just may end up spending more time prepping those component legs. The Surface Mount Electrolytics from the early 1990's were just generally poor performers.
You did an absolute great job of restoring it,but have you test it to see if it works?
Voultar (and Smoke), any idea if the the SuperGrafx needs a recap? I just acquired two of them, with no mod work (no RGB or recap) and they work fine, unlike any Duos I've ever gotten. Did they solve the cheap cap problems by the time the SG came out? I don't want to spend any money on this right now if it doesn't need it. Also, if the SG is modded for RGB, does that mean the CD games will also output RGB when the Super CDROM 2 is added? Thanks for any answers and for the video!
Great video!
Thanks for the thorough guide! Out of curiosity, what kind of flux do you use? It seems very liquid like. Some of the flux I have used in the past has been too thick.
I have used the "Twist" technique removing all my caps and NEVER have I destroyed anything on the PCB's.
And here I thought only I used shotgun approach when repairing beverage systems or ice machines lol
It’s good to see another fix it guy using that term
Also my old game gear won’t power on and I checked the site you mentioned, I’ll be looking for a decent solder iron and solder and just try recapping the system with the kit they sell and see if I can save my old system
Curious to know, would you suggest a pre-heater station for doing hot air rework of this nature? Probably going to do cap kits on my PS1, PS2, and some handhelds soon, but I've been hesitant because I don't have one.
Nice work 👍
46:00 in my (limited) experience the plastic part of those connectors is just interference fit, why not remove them while soldering?
if i have neither (at least of any quality) should I get a hot air rework / soldering iron combo unit? or do I need ot buy the components separately?
For recapping what do you think about using hot tweezers? I’m on the verge of buying the hakko hot tweezers for the fx888d, but can’t find anyone using them online!
great video realy i learn many thing then i practice on my turbo duo great!
Great stuff.
I wish I saw a video like this before recapping my own a decade ago. It had working sound after the recap then I put it away for a year , and now no sound. I probably didn’t properly clean enough of the gunk off.
The same goes for circuit boards used in marine equipment salt water is the biggest problem it eats the very copper after a point.
I nearly destroyed a Sega Master System because of bad caps. The power supply burned out so my smart ass decided to solder the power cord to an old AT power supply for the 12 volts it needed. 3 caps popped and it fried the power rectifiers. I got lucky. After shotgunning it with nice Rubicons & replacing the rectification stage the AT supply worked great for running it.
In the situation where you have a tight fit like around 47-00, I'd be worried that the flux would burn off and the first joint you're making might end up poorly wetted. Maybe you could solve this by using some paste flux on the legs of the component so you get an extra flux kick when the component touches the pad?
Funny, how one sometimes encounters 'new' systems, long after they disappeared... back then. Seems like fun material & I wish 2 c all those systems come 2gether in a FPGA gameboard, 2 build in a nice... cabinet. Namasté
i love your channel man much love
42:20 I can just about see your face in C201's pad there. hah
Nice clean solder!
45:20 that bit of rott? fluff? on the board must have been hard to see but it's buggin' me haha
Thanks for the video! I have a sony KV-35xbr48 and a Sony pvm 14m2u I plan to recap both might also recap my 27” jvc d series as well I collect crt TVs for retro games! I was curious do you recommend recapping a nes, snes or n64? My snes is mint cib barely used I recently purchased it from eBay and my n64 is heavily used lol works great but I notice lots of color bleed on some games and not nearly as much on other systems like there will be a red outline around Mario’s hat or on f zero the big purple letters will have a purple outlined on the right etc. this is through both composite and s video and is consistent across all the TVs I’ve tried it on not just one so it’s gotta be the n64 right? I plan to purchase your rgb mod anyways so I figured I might recap and clean up while I’m in there everyone likes a clean well maintained slot😉😂
I've purchased caps from Luke in the past for dreamcast and super nintendo repair. He's legit and amazing seller. Also those atomic fireballs are delicious
Voultar,There are some solid state capacitors it won't leak fluid,,is there any hazard to replace old style electronic fluid ones with solid one?
I use solder paste for putting on new smd caps. It's much easier to work with as long as its good quality. I use kester
Voultar, what do you think about the "Double Iron" Method? Or Soldering Tweezers?
Roland synths from this age, as well suffer from op amp caps going bad. I've done three xp-50s in the last three months that all needed severe board repair from bad caps
How did you get C136 and C163 out? They look like through-hole but there is some component blocking them on the other side of the board.
Nice trick with "sliding" in that cap near the plastic connector. I do not have the Duo but I recently recapped an Amiga 600 - it suffers from the poor quality smd caps as well. I wasn't so lucky tho, traces in the op amp area literally dissapeared - had to patch them with kynar - tedious job, but it is working as new now. By the way what camera do You use? Quality is really good, and focus in macro scenes looks pretty good as well.
It's just a cheapo Canon Vixia R700.
I seen some acid going below an OKI IC, have you removed that one to cleanup any acid going down there?
Hey Voultar, when you are recapping do you use polymer or electrolytic caps? Im new to this and Im seeing that electrolytic caps will eventually start leaking again causing the same problem. Polymer caps shouldn't have fluid and wont leak? I can't tell if console5 uses electrolytic or polymer caps. Thanks for a great tutorial!
C202 capacitor is soldered with wrong polarity.
Dammit you made me check. 😝
very nice!
Your forgot the two through hole caps in the CD controller area. Hehe. ;)
Although i have never had any problems with twisting the old caps off the board (if you do it carefully the leads of the smd caps just break without doing any damage to the board), i agree it's better to use hot air.
I had to repair many consoles, where people previously tried to remove smd caps using a regular soldering iron, applying way too much pressure and heat to the already corroded pads and just ripped whole traces off the board. In my opinion that's a whole lot more dangerous than twisting or cutting.
I came for the cap replacement tutorial. I stayed for the ASMR.
FOIL! Genius! You are my hero!
Any chance you will do a Super Cd full cap replacement? I would love to know how you would tackle that covered area!
I have a JVC XEYE...in need of repair.... the AV PORT was not working right at all...so I opened it to take a look and someone I’m guessing...tried to fix it and messed it up...it looks like besides from the av port being bad....they may have...no they have damaged the pins. I just really need this fixed....is there a way to get ahold of you? Please help me. Also it has messed up traces... maybe one. But just on the AV PORT.
I know I'm not the only one that keeps hearing Solid Snake when he speaks? I think David Hayter would be proud. haha