ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2017
- Join Lord Voultar as he brings you into the dark underworld of E-bay console mods. This specimen is a Duo-R that was purchased from a Japanese E-bay seller, pre-modified with (terrible) RGB output & region-switching. Systems just like this can easily sell for over $400. Do you really get what you pay for?
You can purchase the region mod here: www.game-tech.us/product/turb...
*LIKE AND SUBSCRIBE IF YOU ARE DOWN WITH MY WAREZ!*
Follow me on Twitter: / voultar_modshop - เกม
As the owner of this monstrosity, as I watched this video I first felt excited. Then I laughed, cringed, laughed again, felt shame over having paid the doucher, came to the realization that my PC Engine Duo-R is now more famous than me, ate a delicious Twix (fun size, let's not go too crazy), and then joyously watched our lord and console savior turn this black duck into a swan. Kudos to you sir, and kudos again.
Good to see a Duo get saved. Enjoy that beast.
Inquiring minds gotta know. Was this a Doujindance unit? I'm watching right now so if it's mentioned here and I haven't gotten to it yet, disregard.
It pains me to see PC Engines in distress. :-(
edit: lol, "Doucheindance Special", called it. Sorry bro. But they're nice and clean! On the outside. Usually.
hey man, i can put some black tape on your pc engine for 400 dollars
are you interested
The five stages of grief.
@Zoiks 66 Maybe he was Douche was afraid the bad solider was gonna desentagrate.
I laughed so hard when you said pin 30 of the CPU was a ground pin. Douche used a wire for pin 29 to a ground plane. Holy shit!
Great video, dude. I'd like to make a request, which may be a huge pain in the ass and very costly, but I'll suggest it anyway. The reason these modders all attribute to using the epoxy or hot glue is to keep things intact when shipping overseas. Especially shipping overseas *cheaply*. No matter what's said to them, they think it's necessary. I'd love to see you do a video (or series) of modding a console cleanly and then shipping it to, say, China, and having it shipped back to you. All with the cheapest shipping methods available (but of course, well-packaged by you). If it came back fully functional, I think it'd go a long way to getting these guys to realize it's the quality of their work and not terrible handling during shipment that's the problem.
We've all had many items straight from the factory that we've opened up that had a wire or two soldered where they had an oversight during manufacturing. So we know stuff is not just going to fall apart if done well. But getting it through these guys' heads that a modder can do the same seems impossible.
The mod work on this PCEngine was so shoddily carried out even the fly on your desk at 7:56 didn't want to look at it.
A throwaway sponge (cut up a big sponge from the dollar store) will remove large amounts of softened epoxy quickly and cheaply. Use a pinching action. You'll still need to scrape to remove the details but the larger masses will come off and stick to the cooler porous surface rather than the hot silicon board and pins. Love your vids Voultar!
I really appreciate you telling us what temperatures you work with. Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge, please continue to show us more!
I wanna get into soldering, so this is such a nice and calming way to like, see someone who knows their stuff do work.
Thank you for the video ♥
@ 16:03 The modwork was so bad that even the two-part epoxy spelled out "NO!"
It's just hot glue. Black hot glue, annoying, but really not that crazy bad, it seems to me. As noted below, epoxy wouldn't melt like that.
@@HypherNet sure it would, and it can.
I thought I was the only one who noticed that
Now I can't unsee it. :D
@@Voultar hey man, I dig these types of videos and glad you're back! Quick question, when you mount your chips like the RGB above, what do you recommend for covering the back of the chip? Kapton, electrical, insulated foam tape?
“Including your ex-wife”
Bold of you to assume I’ve been married before.
Or at all.
That's voltar's provocative sense of humor for you
Voultar, you conduct your mod work like a well orchestrated Symphony.
Second Voultar video I watched (first one was that hot glue disaster). It it somewhere between magic and sci-fi for me since I have no background in this - whatever it actually is you are doing here (including that one voice medieval choir you were performing) :D It's always very nice to watch people who know what to do and understand what they're talking about. I strongly doubt that your skills and knowledge will be to at least some use to me in the future, but no matter what - thank you :D
That doesn't look like epoxy. That looks like high temp black hot glue.
I think that's the shit that killed Tasha Yar.
I think so too. I`ve worked with a lot of different Epoxies an non of them had such a low melting point . Even when it is hot enough it is not liquid like here in the video , instead it will crumble.
@@floriankleinert6538 at first I thought it was JB Weld for sure, but yeah 110C to go plastic like that seems low. But idk I've never had to melt it off a PCB before lol. Or even considered putting it on one
Yeah the shininess is a tell tale sign
@@user-yk1cw8im4h and the strings/hairs
Unless you mess with epoxy right as it sets up, it can't form the same sort of strings cooling, extruded, hot melt does.
its not epoxy or any other two parts glue! its hot glue (you also where able to melt it back, epoxy doesn't melt its chemically bonded)you can buy the normal one and the black one also there is hot glue with gliter in various colors for kids stuf.
Correct!
I use black hot glue myself all the time. It's the high temperature version that's pretty hard when cooled.
2-part epoxy doesn't melt at all when heated.
do you by chance know a good way to dissolve actual epoxy on a pcb? i am working on one and i need to see the components underneath it.
@@iRepairElectronics the only thing that I know that actually takes care of the kind of epoxy used on pcbs is fuming nitric acid, and it's pretty dangerous if you're not careful
soak epoxy in acetone (for days not hours). you can get better chemical de-potting compounds that work faster but its a nasty business! Acetone would have taken the black hot glue in this video off in seconds too, though not sure what the guys problem with it was really. if I was sending this stuff through to post you need some strain relief on the wires when soldering direct to boards. Silastic would be better but high temp hot glue was used for this all the time, particularly in cheap 90-00s consumer electronics.
@@tomkennaugh true but a better method would be to stabalize the wires themselves not burry the connections a little dollop on the pcb then pushing the wires into them to alchor them would stabilize the soilder joints from moving too much and make future repairs easy as youd have full access to the solder to redo it and the hotglue on the wires would come up easily
this was done pureley for a bodge fix his soldering is obviously not upto par so he relies on over gluing the solder connections as insurance for his piss poor soldering
I’ve never touched a soldering iron before and I’m willing to be I could do a better job than that
Cold solder joints will be a thing for you starting out but otherwise yes you are correct. A drunk squirrel could do better than this trash.
The black goo was hot glue. Hit it with freezer spray, alcohol or anything very cold, it will pop right off cleanly, no residue at all.
true but be careful or you will take an embedded pin with it.
Great video! Big fan of your work!
Oh the feeling in my cockles as this long awaited video begins with a shot of my very own douchey dancing Duo.
I love these modwork fail videos. Expose all of the hack modders out there.
I really wish I had seen this video last month!!! Great work I've subbed.
Your videos are amazing. This one was a roller coaster of feelings. I actually got anxiety flushes when the epoxy around the hu card got in a semi liquid state. I was like… man he’s smearing it everywhere!! But in the end it was wonderful. Thanks for all the knowledge sharing man, appreciate!!
I bought a duo R from doujindance about 7 or 8 years ago. When I received it, the CD drive did not work, even though he advertised "new lens!" I had to send it to a modder I found on the pc engine fx forum to repair it. He ended up having to replace the cd-rom drive motor and a few other parts. Does doujindance even test his shit??
I'm sorry for your loss.
hope you learned the lesson of not buying OVERSEAS from UNKNOWN sellers lol
This man would make an excellent teacher. Your channel is my new hobby 😁
I've been hyped since the teaser!
So have I. Glad it's finally here.
we watched the video all the way through so thumbs up . that being said me and my friends watching have over 130 years combined pcb repair experience and we just laughed at how you tried to make it seem worse than it was.
Oh really? Well, that's 130 years of excellence! I saw your TH-cam channel, you fellas might want to consider accumulating at least 30 years of combined experience in how to make video content that's actually decent. So, thumbs up for that.
Totally joking by the way (sorta). You keep up the good work over there!
Wow in my experience I had never received that type of work from Doujin but it obviously seems like his expectation for more listings took a toll on his worksmanship....I'm speechless, I'm sure he's most likely made adjustments hopefully.
Thanks for the great vid.
I'm gonna sub, your stuff makes me laugh.
I don't mean to enjoy your suffering, but the mind
boggles at the choices of these "e-bay modders"
Nice work Voultar. I have also fixed many doujindance systems myself. Usually the RGB mod was failing and making everything yellow. Or the region mod would not work with the everdrives properly.
In the end, the first system I did I removed the entire hucard slot and slapped one in from a system with dead HuC chips in it. I then in my free time clean up the pins from the hucard slot until another system comes in that was modded by that same person and then I just swap it out again. So I reuse the ports just on the next system. Imo, it saves a bit of time and cleanup can be done later.
Thanks! In the video, I first show you the "goopy" way of removal which can sink an extra 15 minutes in the whole process. If you noticed the CPU epoxy removal, it was a much cleaner extraction. I did this to illustrate that despite the horrible mess that you may or may not make, the entire job shouldn't take you more than 10 or 15 minutes of work. Lifting the hu-card connector isn't a bad idea. But out of the 35+ Doujin-Dance systems I've repaired, the 2-part epoxy is typically married to both the mainboard and the hu-card pins. If you don't do any kind of removal, you run the risk of hosing the solder resist on the top layer of the board while extracting that bastard.
That looks more like liquid electrical tape because epoxy wouldn't melt that easily.
Epoxy start to melt at about 170°C.
@@Kabodanki Yeah but epoxy comes off in chunks when you apply heat.
I'm going to love this video series
Not boring at all, loving every second mate... I love the methodology.. Keep the vids coming, and the sped up drill sounded like a duck btw.
Great stuff! Doesn’t matter how old the video is. Timeless.
Very entertaining. Thanks for making these videos.
Awesome job. Very informative and entertaining.
Lord Voultar, I have a PC Engine that I bought from the pcenginefx forums a few years back. It is modded for S-Video, but the colors have always looked all wrong to me. Any chance you would be willing to take a look at it? I would really like to have it fixed or upgraded to RGB if possible. Thanks.
It's possible, my man!
Voultar if you would be willing to fix my Duo-R and add RGB please let me know what I need to do to make that happen.
ehm, guys, this is clearly NO EPOXY! epoxy is a duroplast, a thermosetting polymer also called a thermosetting plastic or thermosetting resin.it is a polymer which becomes irreversibly hardened upon being cured!! so, this is clearly a thermoplast, if you can melt it with heat.
but great work you did, saving the board from it messy state... :)
i have an effective method to remove epoxy, you freeze it, it be becomes brittle and simply cracks and breaks into pieces with little force applied
A simple this isn't epoxy because it melts would have worked.
@@jp3354 Sure, but now people know more about the differences thanks to the explanation. I appreciate it
That's exactly right. this looks more like a black "hot glue" than any epoxy I know of.
I bet he could have removed this with some Iso. Alcohol
Man, I'm getting a lot of electrical engineering experience just from this video.
Then you probably need to actually go learn something and gain real experience.
...What am I strapping on? I find this a bit fascinating though. One guy's thing is modding all these game systems, and Voultar's thing is finding that guy's work and undoing it.
This is strangely calming.
Dude! First off, great work--very nice work. That moment that that whole glob came off the cpu at once, was like a fat pimple popping. So satisfying. :)
I have no idea about anything hard modding/ soldering.
I don't know why i'm here,
I really enjoyed this and subbed
Thanks for sharing. It might be helpful to also let people know that the mod here is not complete. The region mod still requires the switch and the analog/digital lines into the 6260 each need an SMD cap replacement to eliminate the RGB jail bars. You need to post more videos! Your work is awesome!
Nice man! you should do Side-By-Side before and after photos. That looks so much cleaner than before.
LOL! Just realized that I have something here from this modder... I'll have to open it up and see how things are.
awesome work you have done,
To put the argument to rest,
Thats not Two part epoxy nor hot glue...
Thats that sticky black ball stuff used to stop Mr Incredible
I know nothing of modding and wiring but this is interesting to watch!
That’s actually pretty neat mod job, the wires are organised and solder joints are pretty well done. Just what you’d expect from japan.
Omg, Voultar is so freaking hilarious... He makes me laugh so freaking much... Thanks bro...
Awesome video
Doujindance mods are pathetic and extremely problematic from a conservation stand-point. Glad to see you taking them on before any more are lost on his chopping block. Looking forward to more Legend of the Douche series :D
I just saw the Doujindance channel. omg, people actually think he's doing a good job....
7:56 that fly on the left is like ”oh shit, it’s a Doucheandance mod. I gotta get out of here.”
Lmfao. Anyone else hear
"oouuggghh daddy" @ 9:45 when the first bit of epoxy came off??
What type of circuit is driving pin 29? If it's an open or high impedance circuit that grounds pin 29 when active, and leaves it open when inactive, then you're fine. If the circuit actively drives pin 29 high though, then with pin 29 tied to ground, it would be a dead short. I'm curious what you've found, cause it looks like you leave it connected.
richfiles It's open drain. Absolutely zero harm in holding it low.
Nice! That's incredibly convenient... And ho-le-sheet... How the HELL does Doucheindance or whatever... How does that convoluted epoxied wire even make _sense_!?!? Wow!
I agree you can’t charge for shit work and argue lack of experience. What if I was contracted to shingle your roof and I do a shit job, I cant argue inexperience because I’m charging for the work.
Dasrite.
there are differences here - you cant compare roof work with PCB/IC modifications and additions to an existing PCB - it would be better compared to an IT company installing the hardware and the cables in a lazy, poorly and sloppy manner for a server/router/switch rack system - it works but its disorganized, sloppy and messy - weve all see this before
Oh shit it's finally here!
Nice work bro 👍
These are fantastic for all of your Chonging needs.
Having pride in your work, is the best trait anyone could have.
So, did Doujindance reform himself because current listings show more respectable mod-work that actually looks proper with pictures and he specifically states no bubble wrap, hot glue, or epoxy. First time I hear/see this and was just about to buy a console he modded off eBay but now I'm concerned.
That fucking pile of resistors on that RGB mod board... just wow, how do even look at that and think "yeah, that's fine, ship it".
Nice work man.
If you want both RGB and CVBS, could a switch be built to go between the 2? I have a standard PCE Duo with region and it had RGB, so I removed RGB. I wanted CVBS so i could use it on a standard TV (more places I could play it). But I also have a PVM, and RGB would be a nice touch.
Stellar work I tip my hat to you Sir.
thats not epoxy!, the way that came off with heat like that it is black high melting point hot glue, gametechus loosened it with wd40, guess what else loosens high melt glue apart from heat?, thats right wd40, ac90 and most penetrator oils.
Sure it is. How do you think we remove glob-tops that use an epoxy composite from boards?
It's neither epoxy or hot glue. That's liquid electrical tape.
It's probably Flex Tape Liquid. :/
it being hot glue would explain why it didn't stick to the shield. The shield dissipated the heat so it never bonded.
@TheGamerWithMore That's what my boat is made of.
And also, I was expecting half the board with traces and pins to follow along when removing a two part epoxy.
Back in the 1980's scanner manufacturers used to put blobs of epoxy on top of the programming diodes used to lock out the old analog cellular frequencies. It was a simple thing to heat the blob with hot air then pull it off with plastic tools so the diodes could be cut.
4:13
>lifts the board by the cap
Whyyyy
I love using this epoxy it is amazing stuff . Thank you for showing off my mod work
They call him Voultar the butcher (I enjoy the content for the most part). To be more constructive with the criticism, I cringed at the plastic breaking @40:35 on the DIN socket. I don't have a better plan here but that and the unsecured RGB PCB don't sit well with me. I'm not sure about the Hucard slot but I would rather see a solution with castellated edges like what you'd see on an Alladin XT and other original XBOX mod chips: The PCB there is cut away exposing the solder pads. That design would be faster to install or remove, not be floating off in the air, and would have left the Hucard slot completely intact.
I've never seen anyone solder with their toes. Great job!
Any updates on when you will be adding PC Engines/Duos installation and repair services to your website?
I may sound like an idiot in this comment but might as well ask.
I just want to start off by saying I haven't modified a board in my life nor have I ever used a soldering iron, heat gun, ect... but I've always been interested in this sort of thing. I do create things on breadboards and my Arduino board. I love the Arduino boards since I can code for it. I am more of a software guy (Python, C++, Java, Arduino IDE, and various smaller languages such as Action Script for Macromedia/Adobe Flash, Game Maker 6, 7 and 8 (GML), ect..). That out of the way, I do have a question about the process of removing the epoxy from the first component. This may have been asked in the comments already but I didn't see it:
Would it have been possible to heat the epoxy to the point where it's not in a "liquidy" state but it lifts from the board in one piece? Sort of how you were able to remove hot glue with the IPA (from your "SNES Mini RGB" video) but obviously not as gracefully since the epoxy is caked into the board, between the pins and under the component and would damage either the board or component if you were to try to remove all of the epoxy in one piece. If so, I think a small portion of the epoxy could be lifted from the main board, something placed underneath that section that would prevent it from sticking to the surface again (some sort of liquid or a piece of material such as wax paper) and the component could be unsoldered from the main board. From there, the epoxy that is still anchoring the component from the board could be heated to that "liquidy" state and the component could be lifted out making the rest of the cleanup easier, in my opinion. This may also help prevent the pins from breaking since you would have easier access in between each pin and wouldn't have to bend the pins much while attacking the epoxy from a better angle.
That process may be more complicated in action vs. written down or just not practical but it's just an idea from observing videos like this over the years.
Love watching hackwork being un hacked, good work man
i noticed the screw you missed :P love these videos, especially the sighs, the "oh my god"s and the "sonofabitch"s
I learned that two part can actually be removed based on this video. Interesting video to see what is out there.
FolixOrision It’s not epoxy. 2-part epoxy is thermoset (irreversibly hardens with heat). This is black hot melt.
Antonio, Thank you for that clarification. You potentially saved me some from some big future issues.
It seems the seller has improved their modding methods judging by their pictures, and I can respect taking feedback and changing it. Regardless, you saved this thing. Nice job!
nothing about the original mod was flawed in any way and none of it needed "saving". It was robust, mechanically secure, and flawless.
Really nice work. Just a question: even though the region lockout chip seems secured from the connections, what method would you use to fully secure the small PCB board in case of the unit being accidentally dropped or just moved around enthusiastically?
You're like Bob Ross with a pcb, "just getting it out of there, that's all were doing here just getting it out of there." **Tiny tweezer strokes**
7:56 drain fly. Hope you got those too. Great video from back then and great video now. I've got a duo douchen dance too. Seriously. Maybe one day you can show me why it sucks because it's noisy and awful and I hate it.
is there no way to get that epoxy off any cleaner? just sucks that it's so globby and a ton of residue is left over.
worse on the cpu.
looks like the guy only really focused on securing the rgb circuit and hot glued everything else so he could get it on ebay quicker. that's fucked.
As I said in the video after cleaning the CPU. I purposely made the epoxy over the hu-card pins goopy to show "the harder way in life". After removing the epoxy over the CPU package I discuss heat control so that, much like the CPU, you can (for the most part) extract everything in one piece.
Voultar yeah, i fast-forwarded a little through that part. should've known better. neat. i was wondering why you didn't just take off the hu card slot, heat it up, and wipe it down but i guess it's not that simple.
i also missed what you used when cleaning off the residual gunk with a toothbrush. alcohol?
very neat and informative videos, looking forward to seeing more!
GameTechUS used WD40 and it made the epoxy less sticky to the board
Is it even epoxy? Wonderful that you showed us a way how not remove it. Seriously lost life time.
Use fingernail polish remover...
... it destroys epoxy.
When you replace the composite pin with CSYNC, do you need to do any modifications to the SCART cable or buy a specific SCART cable for the PC Engine?
35:54 are those tantalum capacitors? Tants always run into long-term problems with synthesizers. I would assume similar long-term problems here. Good electrolytics, if they fit the circuit requirements, would be better for long-term reliability.
Finally someone like me. I have been un-douching these kinds of messes for years myself, you just earned yourself another sub!... Do you answer topic related questions here?
Oh no... I bought one of these from this guy about 4 years ago... It still works fine but I'm going to have to look at the work when I get home now.
I really gotta get one of those desoldering guns. Perfect application for it there; removing those snipped pins
you can get a spring activated solder sucker + solder iron in one for much cheaper than a actual vacuum soldering gun. the latter is only for people who use it daily otherwise not worth the price for a casual hobbyist.
I came to see a repair. I wasn't expecting an exorcism too.
OMFG That really is a crime to use that epoxy.that was hard to watch, poor guy. Awesome vid btw , thanks for the tips :)
Great video, unfortunately I am stuck with a Doujindance mod. What do you do with the physical region switch once you install the new region board? Do you connect it to the new region board or does the new board automatically recognize the region of card you're using?
LOL Instant Classic video!
I recognize that Hudson logo from the Bomberman games way back in the old days...
"Get ready... For an internet... Phenomenon. ughghghgh"
subbed.
I want to add a heat-sink/mini fan to my PC Engine GT as the processor cover shield is missing and it gets really hot which I assume is why it gets glitchy after 2 hours play, how easy a task is this? I can solder but wouldn't know where to begin with such a task.
Voultar, you strike me as a cross between Louis Rossman and David Murray (8-bit guy).
Epoxy burns, but doesn't melt from heat. This seems to be some particularly hard hot glue. Good way of removing either hot glue or epoxy blobs is soaking them in petroleum based penetrating oil, like WD-40/CX-80.
Great job! I was just wondering how you felt about Tim Worthington's AV Driver. It's what is in my DUO R via a modder recommended by Tim down here in Australia. The modder does clean work and is very helpful. How is your board in terms of jailbars? My DUO R has them, albeit very faint. I'm happy with the result, but am always looking for the pinnacle as this is my favorite console. I'd appreciate any feedback. Cheers.
Tim's AV driver is good! It's especially great for original (white) PC-E's as well as TG-16's as it drive audio, too!
Voultar Great to hear! Thanks for the reply.
if i was doing this repair with skills like yours i would remove the whole cart slot to do a very thorough cleaning. but thats just me, you still did a great job fixing this disaster.
all hail voultar lol
nothing about the original mod was a disaster nor flawed in any way. You took Voultar's bait and just blindly agreed not to like the original work by pure ignorance. Literally nothing about the original mod was poorly executed at all.
@@artbyrobot1 most of the world would call a non functioning item 'flawed'
@@nathanmonahan6157 it is not flawed in terms of technique and we don't even know what aspect of the mod "failed" if any. No failure was in any way demonstrated.
@@artbyrobot1 yes it is flawed by technique. Poor soldering was shown, wires were coming off without being heated by the iron. Poor signals were made in the rgb mod, and more poor soldering. Using bubble wrap as insulation? Things that can cause static, as insulation.
Poorly made boards. And no, bread boards are not for production, they are for prototyping and teaching.
And last but not least, the big black elephant in the system, 2 part epoxy hiding much of the poor work done.
And he doesn't show the failures in this particular video, but he does in other videos.
Static on the image, uneven colors, screen tearing, and others that don't turn on, all from the same ebay scammer.
@@nathanmonahan6157 it looks like polyamide hot glue, not 2 part epoxy and that is made for circuit board mechanical connections and securing wiring down. That was the focus of the video, criticizing that which was the proper thing to use and well executed. You claims of cold joints etc are pure speculation. They look fine. Use of breadboards being only for prototyping is something you literally just made up. There is no law or rule of any kind that says this and that makes you look dumb to even say it.
Coulnd't you use a can of compressed air to freeze the epoxy, shrink it, make it brittle and snap it off?(just a noob asking)
Why is the console right-side up?
It's a Japanese mod, they're on the other side of the planet, so you gotta flip it around so that it's in the original orientation.
That melted epoxy/glue stuff is absolutely disgusting. I’d probably barf trying to get that off.
Haha thx Voultar for saving that Engine from black goo. Cleaned install, loved that video ! What kind of equipment are you using to make video ?
I was scratching my head like "why is a mod chip video called Legend of the Douche"?
Then you showed the epoxy and I realized that it was modded by a sadist. I understand console makers use weird compounds to try to make stuff hard to modify, but for a modder to JB Weld his BS to the board shows that he has a severe disregard for human life.
At some point in the future, this guy's mods will kill Tasha Yar.