Thanks for the tips. Especially the strap to remove the hose trick. I always used the rubber handle of a cresent wrench or channel lock, but the strap is much better.
I enjoy the explanations even though most of this won't stick, it's still cool to get a better understanding on what the AC guys are doing. That was funny when you blasted Creepy Eyes, angles are everything LOL. I am impressed with your ability to explain things thoroughly so simps can make some sense. Now you need to do a video on how to fix an upright freezer that the fins inside freeze up after a few months..... I can dream it's that simple.
what about non-condensables showing in the sight glass? looks like a pre-charged style lineset like what was used on 70s to early 90s a/cs -> i've been told they're prone to leaking.
I had not considered non-condensable gasses being present. I will have to do some reading about that before I can have a good understanding of how those gasses would affect the system and where they would accumulate.
@@ReubenSahlstrom The problem is that non condensable gases will obstruct the liquid into the exp valve decreasing the liq into the evap coil lowering the capacity of the system. It also will raise comp outlet pressure. All bad things. If there are noncondensables the only way to correct is complete evacuation. However its a rare problem on system which has not presented any such problems. You'll sort it out.
Then you would have high condenser pressures and have an abnormally high condenser split depending on the type of unit. Should always be watching pressures as you charge. If you start seeing a 35+ condenser split, stop charging and monitor the system. Measure ambient going to coil. Don't rely on weather apps. I have seen 20-30° temperature difference on commercial roofs and non-matched hoods which cause recirculation in the condensing unit. Temperature of incoming air to condenser coil - head saturation temp = Condenser split
I was always told to shut the system off. Wait a bit. then make sure my hoses ar tight and the valves are shut off then hook up my gauges and purge the air out. Than turn the system on.
What refrigerant? Superheat should be around 20 12-18" from compressor inlet, subcooling should be around 10, LSAT not more than 30 above ambient and VSAT should be about 15-20 degrees lower than the target box temperature.
@@ReubenSahlstrom I spend years to work it out how it works and you just text it in few words! This is priceless and I will crop and save this as desktop on my phone till it's get deep inside my brain! Thanks man!!! Quick question are this numbers (targets) same for all refrigerants ?? Thanks and God bless you!
hi ..as we know, the moisture inside the refrigerant system can damage the compressor..So, how to identify if there any moisture that exist inside the refrigerant system?? is there any alternate prevention or method to avoid the moisture from damage the compressor from the early stage??
Man I watch your videos and I see your very educated, I figure you’ve gone to a trade school as most of us ac/ref guys do that aren’t just hacks trying to figure it out on the fly.. I’d like bs a little with ya man, find out what you do to keep sharp.. maybe you could email me sometime?
By far the cutest HVAC tech _I've_ ever seen.
😂😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the tips. Especially the strap to remove the hose trick. I always used the rubber handle of a cresent wrench or channel lock, but the strap is much better.
You really know your stuff!
It really takes a lot to understand everything you explained.
Great job!
I enjoy the explanations even though most of this won't stick, it's still cool to get a better understanding on what the AC guys are doing. That was funny when you blasted Creepy Eyes, angles are everything LOL. I am impressed with your ability to explain things thoroughly so simps can make some sense.
Now you need to do a video on how to fix an upright freezer that the fins inside freeze up after a few months..... I can dream it's that simple.
it's probably not defrosting properly.
0:58 so if you want a walkin at 34° . You would want to see 16° on the manifold? -20 to the temperature set?
Good job buddy I knew you could fix it Reuben 👌✌️👍
what about non-condensables showing in the sight glass?
looks like a pre-charged style lineset like what was used on 70s to early 90s a/cs -> i've been told they're prone to leaking.
I had not considered non-condensable gasses being present. I will have to do some reading about that before I can have a good understanding of how those gasses would affect the system and where they would accumulate.
@@ReubenSahlstrom ya i'm unsure of the impact myself.
@@ReubenSahlstrom The problem is that non condensable gases will obstruct the liquid into the exp valve decreasing the liq into the evap coil lowering the capacity of the system. It also will raise comp outlet pressure. All bad things. If there are noncondensables the only way to correct is complete evacuation. However its a rare problem on system which has not presented any such problems. You'll sort it out.
Then you would have high condenser pressures and have an abnormally high condenser split depending on the type of unit. Should always be watching pressures as you charge. If you start seeing a 35+ condenser split, stop charging and monitor the system. Measure ambient going to coil. Don't rely on weather apps. I have seen 20-30° temperature difference on commercial roofs and non-matched hoods which cause recirculation in the condensing unit. Temperature of incoming air to condenser coil - head saturation temp = Condenser split
I was always told to shut the system off. Wait a bit. then make sure my hoses ar tight and the valves are shut off then hook up my gauges and purge the air out. Than turn the system on.
What are normal pressure, superheated and subcool for walk in coolers?
What refrigerant? Superheat should be around 20 12-18" from compressor inlet, subcooling should be around 10, LSAT not more than 30 above ambient and VSAT should be about 15-20 degrees lower than the target box temperature.
@@ReubenSahlstrom
I spend years to work it out how it works and you just text it in few words! This is priceless and I will crop and save this as desktop on my phone till it's get deep inside my brain! Thanks man!!!
Quick question are this numbers (targets) same for all refrigerants ??
Thanks and God bless you!
hi ..as we know, the moisture inside the refrigerant system can damage the compressor..So, how to identify if there any moisture that exist inside the refrigerant system?? is there any alternate prevention or method to avoid the moisture from damage the compressor from the early stage??
Sight glass will indicate mousture
Finally the info ive been looking for 👍
You made a great instructional video. Keep them coming. 👍
Was there a leak in the system?
Yes, it was determined later that there was a small leak on the evaporator. Thus the unit will eventually get low again unless the leak is repaired.
Very well done.
Very Revealing!
Looks like a typical school building.
Man I watch your videos and I see your very educated, I figure you’ve gone to a trade school as most of us ac/ref guys do that aren’t just hacks trying to figure it out on the fly.. I’d like bs a little with ya man, find out what you do to keep sharp.. maybe you could email me sometime?