wow!!!! Thank you so much! I love doing this and I enjoy it and because of my experience I think I can make it easy for you guys to understand what I'm talking about. Thank you for your kind words and thank you for watching!
I work in industrial refrigeration and I use your videos to help teach some of the new guys working at the facility. I hope you release more training material on your site because your a great teacher.
Thank you very much I appreciate your comment and your kind words! I have been busy trying to work on some other courses but yes, I hope to get some more material here on TH-cam to help then new guys get ahead and to give the experience guys some refresher courses.
@@AirConAcademy I hope you consider selling courses on your site or look into an LMS system to train online. I have no doubt your going to kill it no matter what you do. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge with us.
Been in supermarket refrigeration for 10 years. Don’t forget some of those indicators are purple to pink. Another hot tip. If the sightglass is dirty, once you have it pumped down the can remove the rear indicator and replace it or clean the inside of the glass with some B12 and your t stat screwdriver.
Thank you so much for your comments! There's just so much out there it's hard to cover it all in a short amount of time! But thank you so much! And thank you for watching!
From what I understand a lot of guys/men are colorblind! And that creates a problem a lot of times. I had a friend of mine who got in trouble because he asked the homeowner to tell them what the colors were on the wires for the thermostat. The homeowner got upset and called the office and complaint. It was not his fault that he was colorblind. It just happens. All we can do is move on! But thank you for watching!!!
Some of the new filter driers come with a port on each side of the drier, typically we look for a 3-5 psi drop across the drier, anything higher indicates a restricted drier! :)
Yes, definitely. The suction line filter dryer's will have that connection to get the pressure drop. I have not seen any liquid line filter dryer's with ports to get the pressure difference. I'm not saying they don't exist I am just saying that I have not seen any. Thank you for the information I will be looking for those dryers out there.
Hi, yes you need to evacuate because when you evacuate you are removing the air and noncondensibles. If you do not evacuate you would leave the air in the system and Dalton's law will take affect. Meaning that we will have a combination of gases in the system raising the , because according to Dalton's law, when you have a mixture of gases in a confined space each gas will have its own pressure. So the pressure in the system will be higher and in a refrigeration system when you raise the pressure the temperature will go up. Meaning that the evaporator temperature may not be 40° anymore but something higher. The filter dryer is only going to trap the moisture and the dirt that is in the system. So yes, we do need to evacuate when we change the filter dryers. Thank you for asking a question and I hope this answers it.
hi ..as we know, the moisture inside the refrigerant system can damage the compressor..So, how to identify if there any moisture that exist inside the refrigerant system?? is there any alternate prevention or method to avoid the moisture from damage the compressor from the early stage??
That is a very good question! As far as I know there is really no test to see if there is moisture in the system. We have tests for detecting acid. People typically will install a site glass/moisture indicator to see if there is moisture in the system. This will tell you if there is moisture in the system as the indicator starts to turn from green to yellow. This is why it is a good practice to always install at the very minimum a liquid line filter dryer. And to pull down to 500 µm when evacuating the system and preparing it for start up. Unfortunately with the new oil that is being used, POE, that synthetic oil does not release the moisture like the older oils. Because of this manufacturers say that when installing or opening up a system you must pull a vacuum to 500 µm and install a brand new liquid line filter dryer. I always suggest installing both, it liquid line filter dryer and a suction line filter dryer. If we have moisture in the system that has not been trapped by the filter dryer acid will be created and it will damage the compressor. Thank you for this very good question!
The only time I have seen that is when the system has been dirty and there has been a burn out of the compressor. Check your system to see if it has acid in it. If the acid test comes back positive then you may need to change the dryer with an HH dryer and replace your psych class. I have only seen that a couple of times and it has been because of a dirty system. Good luck!
Great video. If I change liquid filter dryer and pull a vacuum in the liquid line section from the receiver's outlet king valve to the solenoid ahead of the TXV, will that solve the moisture issue in the system, what about moisture in the section after the TXV up to the receiver? Will that be absorbed by the dryer when the system is restarted? and how moisture can the dryer absorb?
Just pulling a vacuum in that small section will help a little but you will still have moisture in the rest of the system. If you change the dryer the new dryer will be able to absorb more moisture. The dryers can only absorb a specific amount of moisture, so you may need to replace the dryer two or three times after two or three days of running time to make sure you got all of the moisture from the system. I guess it depends on how much moisture you think your system has as to how many times you will replace the dryer. I would say two or three times might be enough.
If I understand your question correctly, yes the site glass should be clear. Typically if the site glass is clear that means that you could possibly have enough refrigerant in the system. To be absolutely sure you need to take superheat and sub cooling readings. Just because the site glass is clear that does not mean that you have enough refrigerant in the system. I hope this explains your question. Thank you for the message.
Thank you for responding a collar I am working on have a side glass clean but only suction line I could put on my gage on there is no discharge connection have can I know if the system is running good thanks
@@wasimedoo1506 it really depends on the type of metering device that you have. If you have a TXV then most likely it is going to adjust to maintain proper superheat and you will have enough refrigerant in the evaporator. If you have a restrictor/Piston/orifice/piston then you need to check the superheat. Typically for air conditioning systems we would want around 8 to 10° of superheat. You may want to see if you can get the manual for that unit that you working on to see what the superheat should be. You should be able to figure out superheat since you have a connection on the low side. But if your site glass is clear most likely your unit is running well. I hope to sit formation helps.
Hi Julio, thank you for that awesome explanation of why you might see bubbles and of the sight glass color. Could you please tell us the proper procedure for vacuuming a system? I’m more so interested in automotive systems, but would you vacuum the high side and low side at the same time, or individually, or low side only? Thanks!
Thank you for your comments! I'm glad you liked the explanation. If you're working on automobiles or not it is always best to pull a vacuum on the high and the low side at the same time. This will help you pull a vacuum much faster so you can make sure you have pulled out all of the air, noncondensibles and moisture out of the system. Don't forget, use a micron gauge to pull down to 500 µm. Thank you and good luck!!!
Yes, there are other colors. I have also seen purple out there. But here I was just pointing out a specific type. I guess I could make another video where I point out to her colors? But thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
I am not usre I understand but you need to have superheat. if you do not have superheat liquid will comeback and ruin the reed valves and kill your compressor. check the operation of the TXV or metering devise
In a car you do not have a liquid line filter dryer. In older cars there was a site glass but the new ones do not have a site glass. In a vehicle you have the accumulator which has a bag of desiccant inside. The desiccant will absorb the moisture but it will not really create a pressure drop. Both systems are similar in how they operate and for troubleshooting but again a vehicle will not have a liquid line filter dryer that is going to clog up and create a pressure drop. I hope this answers your question. Thank you
Hi actually I have a problem with my ac it’s cooling less got it checked from tech seems he didn’t caught the problem I m mentioning the reading he took and he decided in few minutes that compression faulty it’s not compressing at full capacity after watching this video readings r on Goodman R410 head pr 250/suction Pr 100 he wrote 50deg SH and 14 Deg idk what it is maybe sub cooling I have called him again for expansion valve seems he wants me to change the whole ac unit as he say the compressor is drawing low amps 6amps only ac blows cold air but runs continuously what can be the cause as I can’t afford to change whole unit it’s only 4 years old but compressor is 6yrs old out of Warranty
50° of superheat is very high! The pressures are also low. Both the suction and the head pressure. It sounds like it is low on refrigerant. It depends on the type of meter and device as to how much more refrigerator you need to add but it sounds like it is low. If the amperage is low like you mentioned that also indicates low refrigerant. The suction pressure should be around 118 or 120. The head pressure should be higher than that depending on how warm it is outside. The sub cooling will depend on the unit and the outside air temperature. You should have anywhere between 10 to 25° of sub cooling. But for right now it sounds like it is low on refrigerant. I hope this helps. Let me know.
@@AirConAcademy I have called the guy again but as per him he charged 1 lbs ga more but he says compressor is not taking more gas it’s faulty change the whole ac unit he didn’t checked the txv extra so idk what’s problem he sounds to me more of a salesman to buy new product as I have one company protection plan bought Unit is 5 years old goodman residental I can come up again with all the parameters checked again do u want any specific parameter for compressor faulty I wanna make sure he is not scraping my good unit to sell new which i feel
@@JaspreetSingh-te7jt I'm sorry took me so long to get back to you. and I am sorry, but I think you are correct he's trying to sell you a new unit. That is how a lot of them make their money. To me it sounds like it is still low on refrigerant. You may need to call someone else. With the pressures that you sent to me before it is definitely low on refrigerant. 1 pound may not be enough. I am thinking you may need someone else to look at it. If you call him back you should stay with him and take pictures of the pressures he is reading and the temperatures so that you have a record of it and maybe you can send me the suction pressure, high side pressure, the temperature at the outlet of the evaporator and the liquid line temperature. That way I can help you figure out the superheat and sub cooling.
500 is the ideal and what the manufacturers want! and you should be able to get to that the problem is time!!! I had a student that could not get to 500Microns I told him to leave the vacuum pump running and he said it too over 8 hours to get to 500. the problem is he had time, it was in his building. a lot of us do not have the time. but if the system is tight it should pull to 500 Microns.
@@AirConAcademy yes I know that. What I was saying some ppl just let it stay on a vacuum for about 20 mins and call it good . I've seen it. I've been in this field for 10 yrs now
@@justinp7020 yes that is what some people do! and well it may be enough? I know guys who never use a micron gage, so they are just guessing. Some people cannot afford a micron gage, some do not know to use one because they do not care.
Nice information question what should be the temperature of the filter I don't have any thing to check that temperature and I don't have the microns gage I you my regular gage to pull a vacuum so how long should I take to pull a vacuum and how should I know the filter is clog with out side glass most machine don't have help me if you can thanks God bless
Wow! Good questions! The liquid line filter dryer should be the same temperature as the liquid line. On a warm day that liquid line should feel slightly warmer than body temperature. In other words when you touch the liquid line if you feel just a little bit warm, then what you would do if you would grab the other side of the liquid line filter drier and see if there's a temperature difference. If you do not feel like temperature difference, then your dryer should be OK.Yes, unfortunately, most systems do not have a site glass but by just touching both sides of the filter dryer you can tell if there's a temperature difference. If you are doing this type of service work these days, you didn't need to invest in a micron gauge. By using a micro gauge, I realize how in the past we were not pulling good vacuums. Also, just last week I was teaching a class and I was showing the guys in class how fast a vacuum pump would pull the vacuum. The set of gauges that we were using had a small leak somewhere and that was a great example in showing them that even though the gauges look good, and they are down to 30 inches of mercury, you may still have a leak and a micron gauge will show you that. I hope this answers your questions! And thank you for watching!
One more question please I do a job ac r410 to the side glass is before the filter and it's bubbling I take my time and charge the sistem why is that happened
Thank you for sending the questioning, the site glass should be installed after the liquid line filter dryer. One of the reasons is because if the filter dryer is clogged, you will see bubbles in the site glass and it will help you troubleshoot. If the site glass has bubbles in it you need to look for a temperature drop across the inlet and outlet of the liquid line filter dryer. If you have a temperature drop of 3 or 4°F, then that liquid line filter dryer is clogged. This will show bubbles in the site glass. To properly charge a unit you need to know the type of metering device. You should not charge a system using the clear the site glass method. If you have a TXV then you should charge by sub cooling. If you have a piston as a metering device, then you charge according to superheat. A lot of times in the panel for the unit It will tell you what the super heat or the sub cooling should be. I hope this answers your question. Good luck and thank you for watching!
one of the best trainers I have seen
wow!!!! Thank you so much! I love doing this and I enjoy it and because of my experience I think I can make it easy for you guys to understand what I'm talking about. Thank you for your kind words and thank you for watching!
I really enjoy and love these lecture of yours
Thank you very much! I am glad you enjoyed it! And thank you for watching!
Amazing 😢
I work in industrial refrigeration and I use your videos to help teach some of the new guys working at the facility. I hope you release more training material on your site because your a great teacher.
Thank you very much I appreciate your comment and your kind words! I have been busy trying to work on some other courses but yes, I hope to get some more material here on TH-cam to help then new guys get ahead and to give the experience guys some refresher courses.
@@AirConAcademy I hope you consider selling courses on your site or look into an LMS system to train online. I have no doubt your going to kill it no matter what you do. Thank you for sharing your valuable knowledge with us.
@@elementone18com Thank you so much!!! I hope I can make it work!!! Comments like this keep me motivated. Thank you so much!
Very well put together. Thank you Sir
Thank you! I'm glad you like the video, and thank you for watching!
Been in supermarket refrigeration for 10 years. Don’t forget some of those indicators are purple to pink. Another hot tip. If the sightglass is dirty, once you have it pumped down the can remove the rear indicator and replace it or clean the inside of the glass with some B12 and your t stat screwdriver.
Thank you so much for your comments! There's just so much out there it's hard to cover it all in a short amount of time! But thank you so much! And thank you for watching!
@@AirConAcademy yup, almost impossible to cover everything. Too many components.
Sir you deliver easyly..good teaching.. very easy to catching up THANK YOU VERY MUCH ❤️💌
GOD BLESS.
Thank you so much for your comments! And thank you for watching!
The best hvac teacher ever
Gold! thank you ! Be Blessed. 😀
Thank you!!!!
Great information. Thankyouu
Thank you for watching!!!!
Thank you
Thank you! I'm glad you liked the video and thank you for watching!
Excelentes videos julio, muy explicativo thanks a lot Julio
I'm glad you liked the video and thank you for watching! Muchas Gracias!!!
The sad part is Im color blind. But great video, thank you so much for updating and posting.
From what I understand a lot of guys/men are colorblind! And that creates a problem a lot of times. I had a friend of mine who got in trouble because he asked the homeowner to tell them what the colors were on the wires for the thermostat. The homeowner got upset and called the office and complaint. It was not his fault that he was colorblind. It just happens. All we can do is move on! But thank you for watching!!!
I love this video. Thank you so much for talking slowly and repeating the information.
Thank you!!!! I am so glad you liked it and that I could help!!!
Gran maestro y pedagogo.
Muchas gracias!!!
You’re the best!
Thank you so much!
Some of the new filter driers come with a port on each side of the drier, typically we look for a 3-5 psi drop across the drier, anything higher indicates a restricted drier! :)
Yes, definitely. The suction line filter dryer's will have that connection to get the pressure drop. I have not seen any liquid line filter dryer's with ports to get the pressure difference. I'm not saying they don't exist I am just saying that I have not seen any. Thank you for the information I will be looking for those dryers out there.
@@AirConAcademy oh yea, they are definitely a rare find, ive seen them maybe like twice and only in low temp applications
Thank you for the great information and nice video. Easy to understand.
Thank you very much!!! tell your friends and see if they will subscribe to my channel!!!
Good video ,very nicely explained
Thank you so much!
hi julio do we need to evacuate refrigerant when changing dryer filter
Hi, yes you need to evacuate because when you evacuate you are removing the air and noncondensibles. If you do not evacuate you would leave the air in the system and Dalton's law will take affect. Meaning that we will have a combination of gases in the system raising the , because according to Dalton's law, when you have a mixture of gases in a confined space each gas will have its own pressure. So the pressure in the system will be higher and in a refrigeration system when you raise the pressure the temperature will go up. Meaning that the evaporator temperature may not be 40° anymore but something higher. The filter dryer is only going to trap the moisture and the dirt that is in the system. So yes, we do need to evacuate when we change the filter dryers. Thank you for asking a question and I hope this answers it.
Great information and nicely layed out instruction!
Thank you!!!
hi ..as we know, the moisture inside the refrigerant system can damage the compressor..So, how to identify if there any moisture that exist inside the refrigerant system?? is there any alternate prevention or method to avoid the moisture from damage the compressor from the early stage??
That is a very good question! As far as I know there is really no test to see if there is moisture in the system. We have tests for detecting acid. People typically will install a site glass/moisture indicator to see if there is moisture in the system. This will tell you if there is moisture in the system as the indicator starts to turn from green to yellow. This is why it is a good practice to always install at the very minimum a liquid line filter dryer. And to pull down to 500 µm when evacuating the system and preparing it for start up. Unfortunately with the new oil that is being used, POE, that synthetic oil does not release the moisture like the older oils. Because of this manufacturers say that when installing or opening up a system you must pull a vacuum to 500 µm and install a brand new liquid line filter dryer. I always suggest installing both, it liquid line filter dryer and a suction line filter dryer. If we have moisture in the system that has not been trapped by the filter dryer acid will be created and it will damage the compressor. Thank you for this very good question!
Thank you so much sir
Thank you so much for your comment and thank you for watching!
Very smart instructor
Thank you I appreciate it!!!
Ty. The sight glass I’m on has a black dot in the center. Not green or yellow any thoughts?
The only time I have seen that is when the system has been dirty and there has been a burn out of the compressor. Check your system to see if it has acid in it. If the acid test comes back positive then you may need to change the dryer with an HH dryer and replace your psych class. I have only seen that a couple of times and it has been because of a dirty system. Good luck!
The liquid line pressure be higher than normal because of the restriction wouldn't that also indicate a clogged dryer. .
Great video. If I change liquid filter dryer and pull a vacuum in the liquid line section from the receiver's outlet king valve to the solenoid ahead of the TXV, will that solve the moisture issue in the system, what about moisture in the section after the TXV up to the receiver? Will that be absorbed by the dryer when the system is restarted? and how moisture can the dryer absorb?
Just pulling a vacuum in that small section will help a little but you will still have moisture in the rest of the system. If you change the dryer the new dryer will be able to absorb more moisture. The dryers can only absorb a specific amount of moisture, so you may need to replace the dryer two or three times after two or three days of running time to make sure you got all of the moisture from the system. I guess it depends on how much moisture you think your system has as to how many times you will replace the dryer. I would say two or three times might be enough.
Good explanation
So how should the side glass look clear and the system is running good if I am correct thanks let me know
If I understand your question correctly, yes the site glass should be clear. Typically if the site glass is clear that means that you could possibly have enough refrigerant in the system. To be absolutely sure you need to take superheat and sub cooling readings. Just because the site glass is clear that does not mean that you have enough refrigerant in the system. I hope this explains your question. Thank you for the message.
Thank you for responding a collar I am working on have a side glass clean but only suction line I could put on my gage on there is no discharge connection have can I know if the system is running good thanks
@@wasimedoo1506 it really depends on the type of metering device that you have. If you have a TXV then most likely it is going to adjust to maintain proper superheat and you will have enough refrigerant in the evaporator. If you have a restrictor/Piston/orifice/piston then you need to check the superheat. Typically for air conditioning systems we would want around 8 to 10° of superheat. You may want to see if you can get the manual for that unit that you working on to see what the superheat should be. You should be able to figure out superheat since you have a connection on the low side. But if your site glass is clear most likely your unit is running well. I hope to sit formation helps.
Hi Julio, thank you for that awesome explanation of why you might see bubbles and of the sight glass color. Could you please tell us the proper procedure for vacuuming a system? I’m more so interested in automotive systems, but would you vacuum the high side and low side at the same time, or individually, or low side only? Thanks!
Thank you for your comments! I'm glad you liked the explanation. If you're working on automobiles or not it is always best to pull a vacuum on the high and the low side at the same time. This will help you pull a vacuum much faster so you can make sure you have pulled out all of the air, noncondensibles and moisture out of the system. Don't forget, use a micron gauge to pull down to 500 µm. Thank you and good luck!!!
Great video, very informative.
Thank you!!!!
How about Pink= caution
Yes, there are other colors. I have also seen purple out there. But here I was just pointing out a specific type. I guess I could make another video where I point out to her colors? But thank you for your comment and thank you for watching!
Nice video sir thankq
Sir chiller flood back liquid reed broken and other chiller sp and st dop
I am not usre I understand but you need to have superheat. if you do not have superheat liquid will comeback and ruin the reed valves and kill your compressor. check the operation of the TXV or metering devise
thank you for this video
You are welcome!!!! I a glad you liked it!!!
Can this method works on car ac??
In a car you do not have a liquid line filter dryer. In older cars there was a site glass but the new ones do not have a site glass. In a vehicle you have the accumulator which has a bag of desiccant inside. The desiccant will absorb the moisture but it will not really create a pressure drop. Both systems are similar in how they operate and for troubleshooting but again a vehicle will not have a liquid line filter dryer that is going to clog up and create a pressure drop. I hope this answers your question. Thank you
Thanks 😊
Thank you! I'm glad you liked it!
@@AirConAcademy Just notice you wrote reversed?
@@knightxxix I can and I do sometimes, but it is faster if I reverse the video. lol
Hi actually I have a problem with my ac it’s cooling less got it checked from tech seems he didn’t caught the problem I m mentioning the reading he took and he decided in few minutes that compression faulty it’s not compressing at full capacity after watching this video readings r on Goodman R410 head pr 250/suction Pr 100 he wrote 50deg SH and 14 Deg idk what it is maybe sub cooling I have called him again for expansion valve seems he wants me to change the whole ac unit as he say the compressor is drawing low amps 6amps only ac blows cold air but runs continuously what can be the cause as I can’t afford to change whole unit it’s only 4 years old but compressor is 6yrs old out of Warranty
50° of superheat is very high! The pressures are also low. Both the suction and the head pressure. It sounds like it is low on refrigerant. It depends on the type of meter and device as to how much more refrigerator you need to add but it sounds like it is low. If the amperage is low like you mentioned that also indicates low refrigerant. The suction pressure should be around 118 or 120. The head pressure should be higher than that depending on how warm it is outside. The sub cooling will depend on the unit and the outside air temperature. You should have anywhere between 10 to 25° of sub cooling. But for right now it sounds like it is low on refrigerant. I hope this helps. Let me know.
@@AirConAcademy I have called the guy again but as per him he charged 1 lbs ga more but he says compressor is not taking more gas it’s faulty change the whole ac unit he didn’t checked the txv extra so idk what’s problem he sounds to me more of a salesman to buy new product as I have one company protection plan bought
Unit is 5 years old goodman residental
I can come up again with all the parameters checked again do u want any specific parameter for compressor faulty I wanna make sure he is not scraping my good unit to sell new which i feel
@@JaspreetSingh-te7jt I'm sorry took me so long to get back to you. and I am sorry, but I think you are correct he's trying to sell you a new unit. That is how a lot of them make their money. To me it sounds like it is still low on refrigerant. You may need to call someone else. With the pressures that you sent to me before it is definitely low on refrigerant. 1 pound may not be enough. I am thinking you may need someone else to look at it. If you call him back you should stay with him and take pictures of the pressures he is reading and the temperatures so that you have a record of it and maybe you can send me the suction pressure, high side pressure, the temperature at the outlet of the evaporator and the liquid line temperature. That way I can help you figure out the superheat and sub cooling.
@@AirConAcademy sure I m gonna call some other Tech n share picture reading soon
@@AirConAcademy thank you sir u were absolutely correct they came in my presence again and found leakage in evaporator thanks for helping me .
Awesome
Thank you!!!!
Who is the good man name??
My name is Julio I am with AirconAcademy.com
Lots of ppl dont even get to 500 . Some
500 is the ideal and what the manufacturers want! and you should be able to get to that the problem is time!!! I had a student that could not get to 500Microns I told him to leave the vacuum pump running and he said it too over 8 hours to get to 500. the problem is he had time, it was in his building. a lot of us do not have the time. but if the system is tight it should pull to 500 Microns.
@@AirConAcademy yes I know that. What I was saying some ppl just let it stay on a vacuum for about 20 mins and call it good . I've seen it. I've been in this field for 10 yrs now
@@justinp7020 yes that is what some people do! and well it may be enough? I know guys who never use a micron gage, so they are just guessing. Some people cannot afford a micron gage, some do not know to use one because they do not care.
Refrigeration for kids.
ha ha maybe BUT thee kids grow up to be master technicians one day.
Distorted audio
Thank you so much for letting us know! Your comments are very important.
It's good audio
Nice information question what should be the temperature of the filter I don't have any thing to check that temperature and I don't have the microns gage I you my regular gage to pull a vacuum so how long should I take to pull a vacuum and how should I know the filter is clog with out side glass most machine don't have help me if you can thanks God bless
Wow! Good questions! The liquid line filter dryer should be the same temperature as the liquid line. On a warm day that liquid line should feel slightly warmer than body temperature. In other words when you touch the liquid line if you feel just a little bit warm, then what you would do if you would grab the other side of the liquid line filter drier and see if there's a temperature difference. If you do not feel like temperature difference, then your dryer should be OK.Yes, unfortunately, most systems do not have a site glass but by just touching both sides of the filter dryer you can tell if there's a temperature difference. If you are doing this type of service work these days, you didn't need to invest in a micron gauge. By using a micro gauge, I realize how in the past we were not pulling good vacuums. Also, just last week I was teaching a class and I was showing the guys in class how fast a vacuum pump would pull the vacuum. The set of gauges that we were using had a small leak somewhere and that was a great example in showing them that even though the gauges look good, and they are down to 30 inches of mercury, you may still have a leak and a micron gauge will show you that. I hope this answers your questions! And thank you for watching!
I am from Guyana it hard to get those tools like the microns gage
One more question please I do a job ac r410 to the side glass is before the filter and it's bubbling I take my time and charge the sistem why is that happened
Thank you for sending the questioning, the site glass should be installed after the liquid line filter dryer. One of the reasons is because if the filter dryer is clogged, you will see bubbles in the site glass and it will help you troubleshoot. If the site glass has bubbles in it you need to look for a temperature drop across the inlet and outlet of the liquid line filter dryer. If you have a temperature drop of 3 or 4°F, then that liquid line filter dryer is clogged. This will show bubbles in the site glass. To properly charge a unit you need to know the type of metering device. You should not charge a system using the clear the site glass method. If you have a TXV then you should charge by sub cooling. If you have a piston as a metering device, then you charge according to superheat. A lot of times in the panel for the unit It will tell you what the super heat or the sub cooling should be. I hope this answers your question. Good luck and thank you for watching!
Thanks 😊