Upgrade: ROBO 3D R1+ Slicer to CURA
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 พ.ค. 2024
- This week on 3D NerdStop we will upgrade ROBO 3D R1+ Slicer to CURA...
CURA Software:
ultimaker.com/en/products/cur...
Groot Bust Sculpture
by Doodle_Monkey, published Sep 27, 2014
www.thingiverse.com/thing:478806
Music was provided by NCS:
Intro:
Lensko - Titsepoken 2015 [NCS Release]:
TH-cam: • Lensko - Titsepoken 20...
Download: bit.ly/lensko-titsepoken-2015
Artist Links:
Lensko
SoundCloud / lensko
Facebook / lenskoofficial
Twitter / lenskonorway
Printing:
Music was provided by NCS:
Syn Cole - Feel Good [NCS Release]:
TH-cam: • Syn Cole - Feel Good |...
Download: bit.ly/SynColeFeelGoodDL
Artist Links:
Syn Cole
/ syncole
/ syncole
/ syncoleofficial
/ syncole - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![อาจารย์ยอด : เรื่องแปลกจากท้องนา [ผี]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8PxYzVOjmK8/mqdefault.jpg)
Your videos are great! I'm learning a lot from them. Can you tell me why my led screen doesn't work?
thank you for uploading this video! I noticed how you got the same result as me on the first layer, I think we need to make the Z axis to go closer on the bed while printing the first layer... Also I directly used CURA to print it, instead of the SD card, but that was a nice touch.. great video!!
+SargeOrona Thanks Sarge. I like printing from the SD card. Just rember if you print from the SD card and unplug the printer from the computer do not plug the printer back into the computer until the print is finished. I did and it stoped the print and I had to scap about 2 hours of a print.
do you have to us a SD card when printing or can you just print straight from the computer?
Great video! I have some questions for you, did you use PLA or ABS for this print? In terms of settings, do you have any idea about the differences between the robo r1 and the robo r1 plus? I ordered the original robo r1 and curious to know how to set the optimum settings.
+Abdullah AlGhamdi I used HATCHBOX 3D PLA. Most of the settings should be the same the build plate dimensions might be a bit different the rest of the setting should be ok. To find your build plate dimensions check out this video th-cam.com/video/3XKKCUA_eLo/w-d-xo.html.
Was your Robo 3d R1+ turned on before you installed the software or is it after? Thanks for great video!!
I think the printer was off during the install of CURA 15.04.6, But if you are installing CURA 2.5 thew set up is very different... You can install the 15.04.6 from here ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list . I have had problems with CURA 2.0 - 2.3 versions. I have not played with the 2.5 yet but I know from 2.0 to 2.3 how you add a ROBO 3D has changed a lot. I have it on my list to do a video on the new CURA 2.5 soon, but right now I use 15.04.6
Cool! thank you. Awesome of you to be so helpful. Best Wishes!!!!
hi, excelent video, i did all that you mention, but when i print, robo starts printing something else, ive cheked in cura how its supose to start and its not what the machine is printing, also, it starts printing at the right upper corner intead of the center, i do check that cura sais profile for robo 3d+, can you help me? thanks
when you started this print , did it do the auto level sequence?
Yes I always run the auto bed level...
can you post a link to the gopro mount you have on your bed for timelapse vids,,,,,its awesome
+NFGNader Mondays video is going to be on the Gopro set up I use. I would post the links but it is about 5 links for all the parts I used... I will have all the links in the descriptio on monday.
Is that a Raspberry Pi camera that you are using for your time lapse camera?
+Kit Seaton I use a GoPro HERO3+ for my time lapse.
how did you run the auto bed level. i tried to run a cura gcode file and it just started printing without the leveling sequence
In CURA go to the tabs and click on Start/End-GCode then click on start.gcode at the top. The code that display should look like this:
G28 ; Home all axis
G92 E0 ; Set extruder position to 0
M565 Z-1 ; Set the offset of the extruder to -1
G1 Z5 F5000 ; Move extruder up 5mm at a speed of 5000
G29 ; auto bed level.
mine doesnt have those.
this is what come up
;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time}
;Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density}
;Print time: {print_time}
;Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g
;Filament cost: {filament_cost}
;M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F{travel_speed}
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
how and where would I add the auto bed level g29
This is where I would put it...
....
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mm
G92; auto bed level
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E3 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
....
PLEASE I am desperate, someone explain to me how to do this on the mac.. I hate having a mac soooooo much... Any links/advice would be greatly appreciated.
What would you like to know exactly?
Hello sir. I have the Robo 3D R1 Plus and i only see profile for the original R1. I select it and all work exept when i start to print the extruder is a little high and is printing in air. How i fix this?
Did you check your start Gcode Z offset? M565 z -1 should be the default if your printer is printing in the air you will need to adjust your offset. I would adjust it by 0.1 until you get a good first layer. So change M565 Z-1 to M565Z-0.9 (I think that is the correct direction has been a while since I have made these adjustments) If not touching then make it M565Z-0.8 and repeat until it makes a good layer. M565 Z-1 is telling the printer to offset the print head -1mm this should be the throw distance of the limit switches. I would not make big changes because it can cause damage to the printer if it tries to push the print head into the build plate too hard. Make sure there is a G28 (0 all axis) at the start of the Gcode.
@@Rorlin3DNerdStop This is my start code G28 ;
M565 Z-1 ;
G29 ;
And this is the default one
G92 E0 ;
M565 Z-1 ;
G1 Z5 F5000 ;
G29 ;
The two of them get the same issue.
@@Rorlin3DNerdStop OK ill try that and let you know thanks
That was easy.....but not for me because I'm getting a program error saying program not responding. Thinking it may me an open GL version out of date and now I have to buy a $200 video card.
I know what you are talking about I have had to update my video card when I decided to start making videos and doing 3D printing. It is worth it. If your motherboard can handle it I like the GTX 1060 for about $200.00 but that is just my opinion. Thank you for watching
that's the exact card i was looking at the 1060 but the cheapest i've seen is $244 on Amazon $299 at best buy. like the 6 gb that it has...guess I'll have to take the plunge...lol
that's the exact card i was looking at the 1060 but the cheapest i've seen is $244 on Amazon $299 at best buy. like the 6 gb that it has...guess I'll have to take the plunge...lol
also...do you know any free software that's close to design 3d catch? now that autodesk cancelled that website and can't get catch anymore...i thinkthats the program. the program that puts photos together and makes 3d image for printing. spent hours looking can't find any that compares to autodesk .
I will take a look and see what I can find...
Have you tryed 123d Cash on your cell phone or iPad. www.123dapp.com/catch
Why use this over robo software?
Cura does a better job with supports and slicing than the stock software, but that is just my thoughts. Some people like the stock software and they use it. The great thing about 3D printing is that you can do what works best for you and your printer. Every printer is different and will need to be tweaked by its user.