I must say I admire your ability to film yourself doing these demonstrations while maintaining your sense of humility if you mess up, especially in the face of hundreds of thousands of viewers. Good work. Love the video.
Your manners section really hit home with me... My wife sounds very similar to Mrs. W. I’m a disabled Veteran and due to some of my health issues, she has had to take over many responsibilities that once were mine but I’m no longer able to do... My wife comes from an Amish background and is no stranger to hard work... As you stated about Mrs. W, my wife never complains about any of it... Also, whenever we are going out, even just to go shopping, she always takes the time to fix herself all up...! Nice outfit, hair, nails, and makeup all done...! Me: I’ll throw on a clean pair of jeans or slacks, depending on what we’re going to do, and a clean shirt... Though sometimes I don’t go that far... Once when I asked her why does she go to all of that bother her response was, “When we go out and others see me, it’s a reflection on you as to how I look”... I stopped and thought about what she said and not only did it make since but I also felt guilty because, if she felt that her appearance reflected on me then my appearance must reflect on her and sometimes the reflection wasn’t that great... I realized that my wife deserved better from me and from that day on, I’ve always made certain that I look presentable before we go out, though sometimes I still skimp on the shaving part but she has informed me that she doesn’t mind if my facial hair is a little scruffy... Got to love her...! Thanks for sharing this with us. With so many fatherless families out there today, there are so many young men that need mentors who will take a personal interest in them and teach them not only what it means to be a man but how to become one... Have a great day and be blessed.
@@troystutsman1400 brother you are blessed! I command over your body that the ailment you suffer will have no more hold on you, just as a commanding officer has authority so too has God given to US authority, we MUST use it! From this day on your problems will wither. And Don't forget God is your father you are his son there is nothing that a father wouldn't do for his son, how much more will God our father Abba do for us? Praise Jesus he is worthy of all the glory. Amen Beleive and Stand up!
Just a general comment: When you cut the "dove tails", the reason for the japanese one having a better finish on the back is because it cuts backwards to the traditional western saw; back to front. And that is exactly why the japanese saw feels better to use, human anatomy on work there; our arms are better tuned for pulling than pushing, and the western saw requires to do most force while pushing (old, bad design). That's ergonomics... where engineering and anatomy beautifully merge. PS.: It also applies to driving. Pro drivers don't "push" the wheel to turn the car. You should always pull from it toward yourself, as that is the more controlled movement. So, turning right, it's the right hand that should do the work, and the left hand just comes along, barely touching the wheel.
My dad left me close to a dozen saws - all were sharp when I got them, I've had a few sharpened, I've sharpened a few myself. IF I was looking to add a saw, I would love to give one of these a try. Thanks Cody.
I've always found "western"-style saws to be very unwieldy. Until now, I had no idea there was an alternative, so thank you for this video. I'll be sure to try a Japanese one out.
I'd love to see and hear you talk through some layout tools - speed square, combination square, t-Bevel, that kind of thing. Thanks for the videos, Cody, and I hope that I'm the lucky guy to win! Chris
I currently live at a Japanese Zen Buddhist temple in California. A crew of 5 guys just finished up four months of work on a new bell tower for the temple. Needless to say, there is a lot of Japanese influence in the woodwork. It was a pleasure getting to see masters at work using tools like this saw in the video!
I'm a 3yr newlywed with old school values. I appreciate the manly manners segments. please keep it up. I have to buy one of those Japanese saws after this demo! back saws are great, but you just demonstrated that dovetails, etc. can be done with the dual purpose Japan saw, so sticking with the affordability aspect of this kit, I would agree that it not need to be included. I would love, however, to see the side by side comparison just the same.
Done Japanese was not as clean on the front because that was the exit side. So the tear out was way better on it. I have a hard time making a straight cut with either type. I guess I need way more practice. Good job man. I like this train of thought.
Cutting straight lines is mostly about proper technique, and not so much about practice (well it takes a little practice to get the technique right). I would recommend you check out RenaissanceWW (Shannon Rogers) here on youtube. He has some excellent videos on sawing technique. The short version though, is simply get all the joints in your arm to swing int the plane that you want your saw to cut, and move the rest of your body out of the way, so that it can swing freely. If you can do this your cut should come out reasonably straight, though getting it on the line AND straight, that does require frequent practice.
Cody, I think you should for sure show the other two back saws because even if they are not necessary they could be a luxury if we have the money to do so. Excited to see the chisels!
I think you need to add the dovetail saw to the toolbox as a separate item. It is so specific, but so useful for many tasks - dovetails, molding, etc.. Yes, it adds a few bucks, but serves many fine woodworking tasks. Also- I like the white backdrop for these presentations it helps me focus on your comparisons and my eyes don't wander on all the updates in your shop. Thanks again!
I am a 20 year old male looking to build a budget tool kit, as my Dad was not the handy type and didnt pass much down to me, and youtube is my dad. I just bought a 9 1/2 inch Suizan saw I found on your wranglermart, and one of those extremely cheap axes to chop up some firewood and to top out the free shipping with a free item essentially! Saw both here, probably going to buy more tools from the budget collection!
Don't discount body mechanics while cutting. Using 2 hands on a saw tends to misalign the body and could easily be contributing to a drifting cut. Aligning your wrist, elbow, and shoulder will help (maybe not cure) a drifting cut as well as reduce binding.
agreed. alignment and sighting straight down the arm, elbow, wrist and hand. also don't forget the old 311 hand grip. for anybody that doesn't know, make a pistol shape with your hand and hold the saw like that. the index finger is key.
+Edward Steward The index finger is key indeed. I'm always baffled to see Cody sawing en not applying this basic knowledge - though apparently he has watched his share of Paul Sellers??
It is 100% about body positioning and hand grip. While in class we had to hand saw EVERYTHING till we mastered it. Not sure if camera angle but the first saw looks bent and twisted.
about the cleanness of the cut, it is not comparing the same cut as they cut in different directions, one on the push and the other on the pull. while i agree the Japanese saw is cleaner all around, the front side of the stanley cut is pretty clean.
Thanks for the saw comparison. Is the Japanese saw really intended for the same purpose as the Stanley? The pull saw definitely seems more versatile. The Stanley seems like a "framing only" tool.
Honestly the best saw I’ve ever had my entire life is a Jones Stevens pvc Hand saw, prolly the closest a guy could get to the Japanese saw posted in this video, it cuts PVC faster than a reciprocating saw, and it cuts wood even better
dear mr&mrs wranglerstar, first off, i love all of your vids and they have helped me a lot with loads of things the last 1.5/2 years. i have gotten more into axes, thanks to you i know how to sharpen them better and keep them good. and i started doing a lot of stuff in my own shed, like make a new wood place, restore my old shed and make it into a woodshop/allround shop all thanks to you! the only problem is i dont have much good tools, i have a couple decent saws and some basic stuff but no good chisels, planes, stuff like that. i am a 18 year old dude from the netherlands and i have learned so much from.your vids. and i would love to have such luck to win this toolbox! it would really complete my woodshop. thanks again for all the great vids and how much you have helped with not only the things i already said, but also with getting through some rough times in my life. im really greatfull for that. cheers, Wesley Krol
Thanks Cody! Great test, very enlightening. Looking forward to the chisel video, and agree with Motor Rider, a way to make holes (maybe even without electricity) would be good to add to the kit!
I purchased one of these Japanese saws a few months ago on your recommendation and I dont think I have picked up my "western saw" since then. Nice series - looking forward to the chisels.
I really think you are comparing apple to oranges, The Japanese Ryoba is $28, and it a cross cut and a ripping saw. You then compared that to a carpenters framing saw, a used one at that, not really a fair comparison. To be fair, you should have compared the Ryoba to two Western style saws. Stanley FatMax 17-202 14-Inch Back Saw $13 Stanley 20-045 15-Inch Fat Max Hand Saw $12 that is a total of $25, less than the one Ryoba saw. Just my opinion mind you. BTW, you should run your medium fine diamond stone on the flat of the Stanley saw, I bet you have at least one tooth that is sticking out causing it to bind and to pull to the right. Also why has the rag in a can not been used for the Stanley saw? Cheers!
StuInTokyo bang on with what you say. I've tested saws for a few manufacturers now and these mass produced saws are often not great tools I had one recently that had next to no set on one side but masses of set on the other side and that cut just like codys. The kerf width is often too large also.
Exactly my point. Not to be rude but I really don't like the 'product placement' of this. When you click the link to buy the saw at the Amazon page he will get a % of the sale. Just telling it like I see it?
d c that became clear when he cut the 2x6 with the stanley- he could have easily cut it straight, especially if he hadn't been pushing down on the blade when doing so.
Being completely inexperienced, but increasing in desire to learn, I so appreciate that you show your mishaps as well as successes. It greatly reduces the intimidation factor. Thanks for your frankness.
I got myself a ryoba japenese saw as my first handsaw and I'm overly satisfied with how it performs so definitely thumbs up for it being part of essential toolbox.
I've used that exact stanley saw for years now and I can agree with the assessment that it binds a lot and tears out a lot. It's really a pain in the butt to use at times. I can't speak for the Japanese pull saw however. I'd love to win this kit as I'm very interested in woodworking but lack many tools.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video. Very informative for a novice like me & appreciate your honesty when you said: "that's the worst cut I've ever made". Keep up the good work.
I ordered one of these after watching this video. After using it for a couple of small projects, I couldn't be happier with it. The speed of the cut and the finish it leaves is outstanding. Thanks
Is it a pole-saw or a pull-saw? I definitely have to get one! Please don't forget layout tools such as squares, marking knives, etc. They are just as important if not more than your planes and saws.
I haven't watched the video yet to understand the context, but I'm going to assume by the saw in the thumbnail that it is in reference to a Japanese "pull" saw. Western/European saws typically cut on the push stroke (the teeth are angled forward), whereas Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke (the teeth are angled back toward the handle).
I don't think that you need the the dovetail saw. the ripping and crosscut saw can also cut a dowel flush in the middle of a wood surface with that flex! I'm sure you know. I like your choice, something that is unusual, but extremely versatile. and I have to say, that was a pretty sweet first cut!
He established that most sharpening (budget) can be accomplished with glass and wet (automoti e) sanding paper in various grits. Years of sharpening per pack at a budget intro price! Yes?
Well I think its needed and a skill that should be practiced early on. I dont feel like messing up my bevels on my chisels not knowing how to sharpen. Im from canada and I can get a cheap stone for 10$ with two grits on it . And it does the job quite well.
Paul Sellers makes the point that a reasonably flat plate and wet-or-dry sandpaper can work to begin with. Not onlyh that, but in another video he proved that you can stop at 220 grit and have a serviceable edge. When I was a boy, my tool-and-die maker grandfather taught me to sharpen my pocket knife that way. Easy and fast. I picked up a 12" x 12" x 3/8" black granite counter tile at Lowe's for $5. Wet-or-dry is not expensive to start with, and becoming practiced at sharpening with that method is a great way to begin. There ARE cheap diamond hones on Amazon, but the flatness and surface quality may or may not be up to the task.
Oh that is hilarious. "western civilisation saw" Wranglestar learns how to be politically correct. Seriously though as an Australian it did grate on me when you said "American saw" On saws you can get Japanese saws that you can resharpen but saw sharpening is not an easy saw to master so many people find the disposable blades the way to go so that tends to be the only ones you can buy. Shops are not stocking the resharpenable ones cause people are not buying them Great video thumbs up from me.
4 years too late, but people don't buy resharpenable saws for a few reasons, 1) They can't be bothered to sharpen the saw so they replace it for $20-$30 2) They can resharpen them so they buy one saw and never buy another saw again. Who do you think a company that makes saws is going to want to sell their saws to? A person that will never buy one again or a person that'll be back in a few weeks/months to get another. In essence making a good long lasting product that never needs to be replaced will put you out of business. So planned obsolescence, make tools to wear out or break and people will have to continously replace them rather than tune them up and keep them going for decades.
How did we go from the only saw you'll ever need to dressing for dinner?! Strange, I walked away (to try out my Japanese saw rip cut side) and came back to how to dress for dinner..... OK! Anyways I ripped my wood with the Japanese saw just fine while you were explaining to all those guys out there (good points! Wish my ex would have listened to your channel!). Silly me, I had this saw all this time as an old guy in the store told me it was good for outside work and that's all I've ever done with it, and had a decent rip saw all this time. Anyways thanks for the tips!
WorldOfTinCars here's a great vice for the money. IRWIN Woodworker's Vise, 6 1/2", 226361 www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LyWWybDW62MYH Probably made in China but that's the trade off for cheap.
Not really a fair test as there both completely different saws with different tpi (teeth per inch), the stanley being used for more heavy duty work such as construction and the other for wood working.
I would argue that it is a perfectly fair test. It is not a test of which is the better saw at it's intended use case. It is a test of which is the better saw to have in your toolbox if you are going to have only one saw for woodworking and carpentry, and the Japanese saw is simply the better general purpose saw, as shown by this test.
He actually addresses that multiple times in the video, stating that this is not the intended use, for each, but as building a generic tool box with the basics that is in everyone's price range, he was trying to find a single saw that could be pressed into doing different types of sawing.
That Ryoba style saw has been used in Japanese woodworking for years for the same heavy duty kind of work. Cutting on the pull stroke just allows for better quality work.
Donald Giese mostly thanks to human anatomy, the body is much stronger and precise when pulling while pushing goes all over the place, guess it's because while we had plenty of rock and metal to play with in the medieval age, the Japanese had to rely on treated wood for both their castles and armors (well, their castles were still using rock for their foundations and the richer samurai was able to afford a full metal armor, but really resource wise it was much cheaper to treat wood to make it more impervious to cuts and almost entirely fireproof)
the Japanese is obsessed with precision, quality and fine details... it think their oldest wooden building (a 5story temple) is over 1300yrs old and has withstand many earthquakes among other things over the centuries, so when it comes to wood work i would like to think that the Japanese know a thing or 2....
I just bought the $18 Irwin from Lowes and I realized that I hated and never used handsaws until now because all my old ones were dull as poo and I'm in a hurry. It probably wont stay sharp for long, but I spent less than $20. Lat night I cut a huge tenon in a 4X6 in like 10 minutes, and I would have just given up before, used my skill saw and finished the last 1" with an old hand saw.
A saw is a tool that I have personally had difficulty using. Blade length seemed to matter as well as the handle. Thanks for showing the difference between the two saws you demonstrated.I agree that a "pull" saw is the ideal for me; pushing a saw to start isn't my ability. I'm a "pull" person. I"m a woman too, and I do my best to use leverage to my advantage when it comes to construction/ carpentry tools.I've been out of the trade since my son was born seventeen years ago, but I still get a buzz to get into the work at home.The tool kit is a great idea!
If you have to saw for a very long time, which you did back before power tools, it's easier to push than to pull. You have more power to push a saw than to pull it.
@@bryansfistfulofwood4620 - There is no evidence this is true as far as I know... in fact my intuition would tell me the opposite but I am not claiming that as I don't know for sure. What I would say is it is a fact that if you have no skill with either the pull cut ones will always win... that said I know that skill can make either work nearly as good so I suppose it it all personal preference at that point.
it boils down to different philosophies towards life. Western mindset says dominate and subdue nature we are supreme beings. Eastern philosophy says work with nature as we all share a place on Earth. Honestly look at the difference in architecture too Western imposes a structure on the land and replaces it with concrete and uses nails and cares little for how the wood grows. Eastern uses the natural grain to determine how the structure goes together. Both work but one takes more energy and less thought, the other takes more thought and less energy.
Great saw, crappy plane. How about instead of the bargain-basement $20 plane that you call "serviceable" maybe recommend a $30-$40 hand plane that's actually decent quality and a person won't regret buying because they want to replace it with something better immediately?
You could say that about every tool tho. Yea just spend 10 more and you get this and that. 10-20 tools later you spent $100-200 more. He is putting together a value "kit" so someone who might want to start from fresh could buy everything at once. And i doubt someone like that would notice the diffrence from a $20 plane and a $40 plane anyway. Could even end up regretting buying the more expensive plane when he actually didnt like woodworking at all. And the last point. What stops the person who bought the $30-40 plane from regretting that he didnt buy a $50-60 plane right away? Then he might aswell buy the $100 plane right away?
Jimmy Wännström: to each their own. I couldn't imagine giving up the convenience and time-savings the single one-hand adjustment knob gives me on my Stanley bench planes. And I've got a question using your logic, would it be better to spend only $20 on a plane that's missing important features and then a person replaces that with a better tool for $30-$40 later on as I suggested, OR should the beginner take some good advice from those who know the difference between the features of these tools and spend the $30-$40 up front? Maybe Wranglerstar should be offering a couple of bargain options because knowing what I know about the planes that I use, that $20 plane would be unacceptable to me.
I bought it a while back. It worked fine them and still does. I've since added more/better planes to my collection. I still have it and I still use it. Rounded the edges a bit and use it as a scrub plane now. If you don't have much money but want to try a hand plane it'll do the job. But of course there are better planes for more money...
Buck Bros hand plane from home depot. Took me an hour or so to get it all tuned up, but once I got it flattened, and the plane sharpened, it has been working fine for me. Would I like a nice vintage stanley or a lie nielsen? yes. Would it work better? Probably. But until then, the buck bros, has been doing just fine.
I like my Gyokucho, however this test is unfair. That saw which is the same as I own cost me $52. That is the the same saw that you used against the Stanley, not the $28 Ryoba that you linked to.
If you're referring to the saw in 9:08,, it seems to have the same logo as the Ryoba saw in the link. Edit: Looking online I found out Ryoba is a classification, not a brand name. Ryoba literally means "double blade", and refers to such saws as presented in the video.
The other saw is a construction saw and the other is a carpenter saw. I really have a hard time thinking anyone would use the Japanese pull saw on construction or the "western" saw for fine work. The "western" saw has gotta be faster, otherwise its useless. I think both saws types are (and have been) used in Japan and Europe for a long time. Granted, the Japanese have done fine woodworking (and metal working) with great attention to detail, as have the European craftsmen. It's kinda like the question is the Japanese samurai better than European sword of the same period. I think it mostly depends on the blacksmiths who made them. If you are a large and strong dude, you might pick a larger and heavier Viking sword over a samurai sword. If you are a smaller dude, you might pick the samurai.
I just don't get why they've ever built push saws. Obviously such thin metal will always bend (and cause more friction) so it either bends or it has to be made thicker which means more work. And then of course the push saw uses the human anatomy in a worse way, since we're using weaker muscles. Our back musles are much stronger so it's easier to pull and the thin sawblade straightens itself since we're only applying force when we're pulling on it. I just don't understand push saws at all. Maybe they are better when you're kneeling on a board and cutting it from above. I don't know.
hello there, i really like all your videos and work, i'm a follower from Egypt and i'm a HUGE HUGE fan , im 23 years old and what i really like about your channel and videos is than not only do i learn about DIYs, tools and how things are made etc. but also you provide us with a lot of other information and knowledge of all sorts of things like advice, Stories , terminologies, books (like the other day when you were telling us about a summary of a book that was talking about relationships and how one should not take his/her spouse for granted and stop caring for yourself and so on) and many more things. At the end of almost every video i find my self learning a lot more than what the title of the video indicated you inspired me alot and i've learnt from you a lot of REAL manly things and manly etiquette and how to act and deal with various things that i might encounter with and i will definitely be putting all the things that i've learnt from you into good use.......so for that Thank You
Well ofc you can't make a straight cut when you use it wrong. Stanley saw is also a pull saw, meaning it cuts when you pull. By forcing it to cut when you push you were bending it. Also as you said, this a not a speed race so don't push too hard on the saw. When you do that the teeth grab more and don't cut but rip the wood and then you get a terrible looking edge.
All he proved is that he has no idea how to use a saw. Pull saws are fine if that's what you like but a Stanley Fat Max was never intended to do more than wack a tree limb off or finish the cut on a stair stringer.
I agree that Cody has no idea how to use the Stanley "WESTERN" style saw. I wish the camera included how he was holding the saw's during the cuts. It was apparent that he lacked total control of the Stanley due to improper grip and a total lack of ability to control the saws direction, as he twist the blade on each stroke. I've worked with many older carpenters who used Stanley style saws and they could cut clean straight lines without torturing the saw as Cody was doing. They showed me the proper saw grip and I was able to improve my accuracy by 99% with just a few days practice. This was a very poor test when he lacked the knowledge of how to use one type of saw, which introduced a bias into the testing.
well .. speaking from experience, it's not true, you pull your bench off the ground, saw horse pops over.. also, unless you can pick up more than your weight, it is physically impossible to achieve what you say. It is also safer, I just got my japanesse saw today, and already cut myself - my bad - but when you push away and it slips you won't cut yourself. I love both my saws, and I am learning to choose the proper job for each
Based on the research I have done, saws that cut on the pull generally give cleaner cuts since the force is more consistent, using the weight of the blade all the way through the cut, and the pulling motion provides the right amount of tension to keep the blade straighter for accurate cuts. Also the smaller, finer teeth aid in accurate cuts. However, they don't cut as much material per motion as a saw that cuts on the push would, so it does take a bit more work but gives cleaner cuts. Saws that cut on the push use your force/body weight combined with the weight of the blade to take off more material per motion. The downside to this is that people with poor technique tend to not use the right amount of pressure and make uneven cuts and bending the blade and teeth in the process. However, most American made crosscut saws cut on the push and pull motion , providing superior cutting power with more teeth that are coarser, while sacrificing accuracy. Conclusion: Japanese style push saws for accurate cuts (designed for woodworking). American made crosscut saws or bow saws for maximum cutting power.
I unsubscribed your channel a while back because of your click bait titles. You explained yourself a couple days back, but it still doesn't agree with me. But: Your titles are back at a discriptive and useful style so here take my subscription again... looking forward to your videos again! cheers
Awesome saws! I have missed using hand saws. They bring back memories of working with my father and grandfather before we had so many power tools. Cutting by hand is more rewarding.
I screwed up a cut with my radial today so I thought I would get a Japanese pull-saw was skeptical about how straight of a cut I would net out of it. It was pretty amazing. It has become one of my favoriye tools. Thank you for the suggestion and you have a new subscriber.
Old habits die hard. You seemed to be trying to start your Japanese saw with a push stroke. Muscle memory is a strong influence on technique, sometimes making the change to Japanese saws a little difficult. The pull action keeps the extremely thin blade in tension and thus straight, while the saw, being extremely sharp cuts well with its own weight as it is drawn through the wood and our muscle memory wants us to saw in the manner we are accustomed to with our Western saws, which runs counter to the appropriate method for Japanese saws. Cross cutting in particular leaves an excellent standard of finish. My own experience with these saws has been wholly positive. Gyokucho also include a back saw in their range and a very good flush-cut saw. Many thanks for all the super vids , I learn something new and useful every time, and often find myself asking " why haven't I thought of doing it that way." Thank goodness for You Tube and your and many others informative and inspirational presentations. Thru them I never stop learning and refreshing my knowledge and skills after many years absence from the trade. All the best, from UK.
I have used japanese saws in the past and agree, if the application fits the range of these saws, they are wonderful to use. Cutting on the pull stroke has great advantages.
I'm a professional wooden boat builder and we use Japanese saws, almost exclusively. I own a 'boutique' western style dovetail saw. Very pricey --and I never use it. The top notch Japanese saws are prone to Brocken teeth if used roughly and carelessly. A Shark Saw fro the hardware store is a very affordable Japanese style saw that cuts beautiful and handles abuse remarkable well.
I do like this Japanese saw. especially after how you demonstrated the benefits that the saw offers. thanks once again for the care you take in showing to use and take care of the tools.
wow cody what you invest in video equipment really pays back! these videos with the white curtain looks so profesional! it is interesting that it feels like every carpenter on youtube fell in love with the japanese saws. I want to try them out, but here in chile it is a real expense to get one of those, the shipping is a real headache (takes like 4 months, beside the expense) one day I'll get to try it out, just hope it is soon. also I want to thank you cody because the huge help that you give me with the english language, since spanish is my native language, learning english is a real must, listening to you just talking is a huge help in training my listening skills.
I'll be honest, if I were in a store and saw a "Japanese Saw" next to a traditional saw, I wouldn't even consider the Japanese style. That is until watching your videos. I'm 100% sold, and think including the dovetail saw would be a good idea as well.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 80 | คู่เอก "รักษ์ vs ยอดนำชัย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ckLMRorsMeY/mqdefault.jpg)
Get your Ryoba Japanese Saw Here Only $28 goo.gl/Ri6wTl
Bought mine from Samarai Carpenter a couple weeks ago (210mm = 8 1/4"). Agree with this choice. It's a nice saw.
I've wanted one forever. Are the replacement blades easy to find?
Just search for Japanese Saw Blades on Amazon, Ebay or your favourite story that carries the saws and you will find them.
Wranglerstar the material on the handles looks like wicka it's a natural fibre that's usually used for furniture and baskets
Wranglerstar nice saw would love to win it
I must say I admire your ability to film yourself doing these demonstrations while maintaining your sense of humility if you mess up, especially in the face of hundreds of thousands of viewers. Good work. Love the video.
Always tolerated the problems with traditional saws but didn’t know there was such a good alternative until this vid. Japanese saw... Wow!
Your manners section really hit home with me...
My wife sounds very similar to Mrs. W.
I’m a disabled Veteran and due to some of my health
issues, she has had to take over many responsibilities
that once were mine but I’m no longer able to do...
My wife comes from an Amish background and is no
stranger to hard work...
As you stated about Mrs. W, my wife never complains
about any of it...
Also, whenever we are going out, even just to go shopping,
she always takes the time to fix herself all up...!
Nice outfit, hair, nails, and makeup all done...!
Me: I’ll throw on a clean pair of jeans or slacks, depending
on what we’re going to do, and a clean shirt...
Though sometimes I don’t go that far...
Once when I asked her why does she go to all of that bother
her response was, “When we go out and others see me, it’s a
reflection on you as to how I look”...
I stopped and thought about what she said and not only did it
make since but I also felt guilty because, if she felt that her appearance
reflected on me then my appearance must reflect on her and sometimes
the reflection wasn’t that great...
I realized that my wife deserved better from me and from that day on, I’ve
always made certain that I look presentable before we go out, though sometimes
I still skimp on the shaving part but she has informed me that she doesn’t mind
if my facial hair is a little scruffy...
Got to love her...!
Thanks for sharing this with us.
With so many fatherless families out there today, there are so many young men
that need mentors who will take a personal interest in them and teach them not
only what it means to be a man but how to become one...
Have a great day and be blessed.
Thank you for your service. You're a true gentleman and I respect you. God bless you.
Daniel Johnson
Thank you for your kind words...!
Have a great day and be blessed.
@@troystutsman1400 brother you are blessed! I command over your body that the ailment you suffer will have no more hold on you, just as a commanding officer has authority so too has God given to US authority, we MUST use it! From this day on your problems will wither. And Don't forget God is your father you are his son there is nothing that a father wouldn't do for his son, how much more will God our father Abba do for us? Praise Jesus he is worthy of all the glory. Amen
Beleive and
Stand up!
Just a general comment:
When you cut the "dove tails", the reason for the japanese one having a better finish on the back is because it cuts backwards to the traditional western saw; back to front.
And that is exactly why the japanese saw feels better to use, human anatomy on work there; our arms are better tuned for pulling than pushing, and the western saw requires to do most force while pushing (old, bad design).
That's ergonomics... where engineering and anatomy beautifully merge.
PS.: It also applies to driving. Pro drivers don't "push" the wheel to turn the car. You should always pull from it toward yourself, as that is the more controlled movement. So, turning right, it's the right hand that should do the work, and the left hand just comes along, barely touching the wheel.
Well this is embarrassing, I just literally blew on my phone to clear that saw dust from the 2x6, old habits from wood working.
J v done that loads of times myself.
I did too..... lmao
Same here... nice video
r/thathappened
Haaa! That got me on the funny bone that did.
he cant even pronounce prius. thats a man I can respect
I always stress the "I" just to bother some people, so it sounds like pry-us. Just like he said it, lol.
That way it rhymes with pious because that seems to be the attitude of the drivers
Pfc Autostart Cody is using the English pronunciation.
It's the metric pronounciation!
That's how I say it because that's how James May and Jeremy Clarkson say it on Top Gear. (And because it ticks people off.)
My dad left me close to a dozen saws - all were sharp when I got them, I've had a few sharpened, I've sharpened a few myself. IF I was looking to add a saw, I would love to give one of these a try. Thanks Cody.
I've always found "western"-style saws to be very unwieldy. Until now, I had no idea there was an alternative, so thank you for this video. I'll be sure to try a Japanese one out.
I'd love to see and hear you talk through some layout tools - speed square, combination square, t-Bevel, that kind of thing. Thanks for the videos, Cody, and I hope that I'm the lucky guy to win!
Chris
layout aids please...angle guage/finder for example
The Japanese really know how to make quality, i hope japan never changes.
Only to get better 😄
I hope they change, because they have a big inequality problem
I currently live at a Japanese Zen Buddhist temple in California. A crew of 5 guys just finished up four months of work on a new bell tower for the temple. Needless to say, there is a lot of Japanese influence in the woodwork. It was a pleasure getting to see masters at work using tools like this saw in the video!
great job Mr. wranglerstar. I look forward to your videos, as an adult, like I looked forward to Saturday morning cartoons as a child.
Me.too!!!
Can't wait for the chisels
I'm getting my first garage/shop next month, I already got these tools to use while I save up for power tools!
I'm a 3yr newlywed with old school values. I appreciate the manly manners segments. please keep it up. I have to buy one of those Japanese saws after this demo! back saws are great, but you just demonstrated that dovetails, etc. can be done with the dual purpose Japan saw, so sticking with the affordability aspect of this kit, I would agree that it not need to be included. I would love, however, to see the side by side comparison just the same.
Done Japanese was not as clean on the front because that was the exit side. So the tear out was way better on it. I have a hard time making a straight cut with either type. I guess I need way more practice. Good job man. I like this train of thought.
Cutting straight lines is mostly about proper technique, and not so much about practice (well it takes a little practice to get the technique right). I would recommend you check out RenaissanceWW (Shannon Rogers) here on youtube. He has some excellent videos on sawing technique.
The short version though, is simply get all the joints in your arm to swing int the plane that you want your saw to cut, and move the rest of your body out of the way, so that it can swing freely. If you can do this your cut should come out reasonably straight, though getting it on the line AND straight, that does require frequent practice.
Cody, I think you should for sure show the other two back saws because even if they are not necessary they could be a luxury if we have the money to do so. Excited to see the chisels!
I enjoyed the side by side with the western style saw. Thanks for putting this series together.
Thank you for the opportunity, I agree this saw should be in the kit.
I think you need to add the dovetail saw to the toolbox as a separate item.
It is so specific, but so useful for many tasks - dovetails, molding, etc..
Yes, it adds a few bucks, but serves many fine woodworking tasks.
Also- I like the white backdrop for these presentations it helps me focus on your comparisons and my eyes don't wander on all the updates in your shop.
Thanks again!
Layout tools would be a nice touch like a square or a tape measure, compass, etc
Maybe a little bias was done when selecting the saws, maybe have Jack do the same tests and ask him.
I am a 20 year old male looking to build a budget tool kit, as my Dad was not the handy type and didnt pass much down to me, and youtube is my dad. I just bought a 9 1/2 inch Suizan saw I found on your wranglermart, and one of those extremely cheap axes to chop up some firewood and to top out the free shipping with a free item essentially! Saw both here, probably going to buy more tools from the budget collection!
A wealth of information in just under 30 minutes. Nicely done WS. Keep up the great work.
Cheers!
Pretty amazing how much "damage" was done on the backside with the Stanley, and how minimal the damage on the front side was with the Japanese saw.
Don't discount body mechanics while cutting. Using 2 hands on a saw tends to misalign the body and could easily be contributing to a drifting cut. Aligning your wrist, elbow, and shoulder will help (maybe not cure) a drifting cut as well as reduce binding.
Lee Wierenga i agree with body alignment it works everything needs to be aligned elbow shoulder and hand.
agreed. alignment and sighting straight down the arm, elbow, wrist and hand. also don't forget the old 311 hand grip. for anybody that doesn't know, make a pistol shape with your hand and hold the saw like that. the index finger is key.
+Edward Steward The index finger is key indeed. I'm always baffled to see Cody sawing en not applying this basic knowledge - though apparently he has watched his share of Paul Sellers??
It is 100% about body positioning and hand grip. While in class we had to hand saw EVERYTHING till we mastered it. Not sure if camera angle but the first saw looks bent and twisted.
Wranglerstar is truly living life as it is meant to be, the world would be a better place if more watched the channel.
I "saw" this video and was ecstatic
It was clearly a cut above all other videos
nick richter
with that cutting edge background.
I always wanted a Japanese chisel but thought they were very expensive, I'm so glad you made this video!
about the cleanness of the cut, it is not comparing the same cut as they cut in different directions, one on the push and the other on the pull. while i agree the Japanese saw is cleaner all around, the front side of the stanley cut is pretty clean.
Haha, I was coming to say this, but you're right I thought that too.
Manly manners bonus at the end! My son and I watch these together, and I find my wife and I discuss some of the same topics.
Thanks for the saw comparison. Is the Japanese saw really intended for the same purpose as the Stanley? The pull saw definitely seems more versatile. The Stanley seems like a "framing only" tool.
How did you just pronounce Prius? Oh boy.
Love the videos! keep it up.
Morgan Weems he pronounced Prius properly - the way the Japanese do.
I can't ever cut accurately with the traditional hand saw. I'll try one of these.
I concur, own both tools and teach my grandson (a beginning woodworker) with them. Have had great success and they exhibit remarkable longevity.
"The Camry of saws." Great analogy.
Honestly the best saw I’ve ever had my entire life is a Jones Stevens pvc Hand saw, prolly the closest a guy could get to the Japanese saw posted in this video, it cuts PVC faster than a reciprocating saw, and it cuts wood even better
I am going to LOVE this series!!!
dear mr&mrs wranglerstar, first off, i love all of your vids and they have helped me a lot with loads of things the last 1.5/2 years. i have gotten more into axes, thanks to you i know how to sharpen them better and keep them good. and i started doing a lot of stuff in my own shed, like make a new wood place, restore my old shed and make it into a woodshop/allround shop all thanks to you! the only problem is i dont have much good tools, i have a couple decent saws and some basic stuff but no good chisels, planes, stuff like that.
i am a 18 year old dude from the netherlands and i have learned so much from.your vids. and i would love to have such luck to win this toolbox! it would really complete my woodshop.
thanks again for all the great vids and how much you have helped with not only the things i already said, but also with getting through some rough times in my life. im really greatfull for that.
cheers, Wesley Krol
Thanks Cody! Great test, very enlightening. Looking forward to the chisel video, and agree with Motor Rider, a way to make holes (maybe even without electricity) would be good to add to the kit!
I purchased one of these Japanese saws a few months ago on your recommendation and I dont think I have picked up my "western saw" since then. Nice series - looking forward to the chisels.
I really think you are comparing apple to oranges,
The Japanese Ryoba is $28, and it a cross cut and a ripping saw.
You then compared that to a carpenters framing saw, a used one at that, not really a fair comparison.
To be fair, you should have compared the Ryoba to two Western style saws.
Stanley FatMax 17-202 14-Inch Back Saw $13
Stanley 20-045 15-Inch Fat Max Hand Saw $12
that is a total of $25, less than the one Ryoba saw.
Just my opinion mind you.
BTW, you should run your medium fine diamond stone on the flat of the Stanley saw, I bet you have at least one tooth that is sticking out causing it to bind and to pull to the right. Also why has the rag in a can not been used for the Stanley saw?
Cheers!
StuInTokyo I concur
StuInTokyo bang on with what you say. I've tested saws for a few manufacturers now and these mass produced saws are often not great tools I had one recently that had next to no set on one side but masses of set on the other side and that cut just like codys. The kerf width is often too large also.
Exactly my point. Not to be rude but I really don't like the 'product placement' of this. When you click the link to buy the saw at the Amazon page he will get a % of the sale. Just telling it like I see it?
This is what happens when you know your desired result and choose comparisons accordingly
d c that became clear when he cut the 2x6 with the stanley- he could have easily cut it straight, especially if he hadn't been pushing down on the blade when doing so.
Being completely inexperienced, but increasing in desire to learn, I so appreciate that you show your mishaps as well as successes. It greatly reduces the intimidation factor. Thanks for your frankness.
I don't think the dovetail saw is necessary because you have demonstrated that you can do the same job with the Japanese saw.
Accurate japanese saw. A tool for years.
Felipe Zanardo I’m getting one. Always dreaded using western saw, no matter the brand.
Awesome tool, so much easier!
And I thought I sawn it all.
Gary Griswold buh dum tissss
nice!
Gary Griswold haHAA
Take your thumbs-up and get out.
Gary Griswold l
I got myself a ryoba japenese saw as my first handsaw and I'm overly satisfied with how it performs so definitely thumbs up for it being part of essential toolbox.
I've used that exact stanley saw for years now and I can agree with the assessment that it binds a lot and tears out a lot. It's really a pain in the butt to use at times. I can't speak for the Japanese pull saw however. I'd love to win this kit as I'm very interested in woodworking but lack many tools.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video. Very informative for a novice like me & appreciate your honesty when you said: "that's the worst cut I've ever made". Keep up the good work.
Thank you for this review. I have never had the opportunity to use any of those Japanese saws. Looks nice.
Please try one. They are wonderful.
I ordered one of these after watching this video. After using it for a couple of small projects, I couldn't be happier with it. The speed of the cut and the finish it leaves is outstanding. Thanks
Your dovetail jig is awesome!
Is it a pole-saw or a pull-saw? I definitely have to get one! Please don't forget layout tools such as squares, marking knives, etc. They are just as important if not more than your planes and saws.
I haven't watched the video yet to understand the context, but I'm going to assume by the saw in the thumbnail that it is in reference to a Japanese "pull" saw. Western/European saws typically cut on the push stroke (the teeth are angled forward), whereas Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke (the teeth are angled back toward the handle).
What about a drill?
Motor rider I think this would be a fantastic idea
Motor rider I'd like to see this. A good brace and bit style drill
Motor rider that's an amazing idea. A low budget serviceable bit and brace set
I like the idea but maybe electric
I agree, if this is about a realistic get into wood workingin kit we dont need to be pure hand tools. a cordless for drilling holes is more practical
Totally agree, I bought a japanese pull saw and it changed everything. Very precise for the work I do.
I don't think that you need the the dovetail saw. the ripping and crosscut saw can also cut a dowel flush in the middle of a wood surface with that flex! I'm sure you know. I like your choice, something that is unusual, but extremely versatile. and I have to say, that was a pretty sweet first cut!
Japanese saw is nicer because it cuts on the pull instead of the push, which also makes it easier to use
I agree, and never go back to push.
Would like to see the Dovetail Saw at some point. Fyi... The white background you are now using seems bothersome for me. Enjoying your videos.
Got myself two good japanese saws some years ago and they work great, even flawless with a little bit of practice. Love those things
a set of sharpening stones?
Sam Koch yes, but in a budget tool box is this a first need, or a later added item for someone with a bit more skill?
QuestForTheOpenRoad First need.
He established that most sharpening (budget) can be accomplished with glass and wet (automoti e) sanding paper in various grits. Years of sharpening per pack at a budget intro price! Yes?
Well I think its needed and a skill that should be practiced early on. I dont feel like messing up my bevels on my chisels not knowing how to sharpen. Im from canada and I can get a cheap stone for 10$ with two grits on it . And it does the job quite well.
Paul Sellers makes the point that a reasonably flat plate and wet-or-dry sandpaper can work to begin with. Not onlyh that, but in another video he proved that you can stop at 220 grit and have a serviceable edge.
When I was a boy, my tool-and-die maker grandfather taught me to sharpen my pocket knife that way. Easy and fast.
I picked up a 12" x 12" x 3/8" black granite counter tile at Lowe's for $5. Wet-or-dry is not expensive to start with, and becoming practiced at sharpening with that method is a great way to begin.
There ARE cheap diamond hones on Amazon, but the flatness and surface quality may or may not be up to the task.
Oh that is hilarious.
"western civilisation saw" Wranglestar learns how to be politically correct.
Seriously though as an Australian it did grate on me when you said "American saw"
On saws you can get Japanese saws that you can resharpen but saw sharpening is not an easy saw to master so many people find the disposable blades the way to go so that tends to be the only ones you can buy. Shops are not stocking the resharpenable ones cause people are not buying them
Great video thumbs up from me.
Stuart Chignell political correctness is not required here... but sometimes he tries :-)
It was funny to see a conservative (I presume) be politically correct.
4 years too late, but people don't buy resharpenable saws for a few reasons,
1) They can't be bothered to sharpen the saw so they replace it for $20-$30
2) They can resharpen them so they buy one saw and never buy another saw again.
Who do you think a company that makes saws is going to want to sell their saws to? A person that will never buy one again or a person that'll be back in a few weeks/months to get another. In essence making a good long lasting product that never needs to be replaced will put you out of business. So planned obsolescence, make tools to wear out or break and people will have to continously replace them rather than tune them up and keep them going for decades.
How did we go from the only saw you'll ever need to dressing for dinner?! Strange, I walked away (to try out my Japanese saw rip cut side) and came back to how to dress for dinner..... OK! Anyways I ripped my wood with the Japanese saw just fine while you were explaining to all those guys out there (good points! Wish my ex would have listened to your channel!). Silly me, I had this saw all this time as an old guy in the store told me it was good for outside work and that's all I've ever done with it, and had a decent rip saw all this time. Anyways thanks for the tips!
been using a pull saw for 15 years now and have only needed replacing blade 2 times.love them.
Can you find a cheep bench vice. (Non Chinese steel though)
WorldOfTinCars here's a great vice for the money. IRWIN Woodworker's Vise, 6 1/2", 226361 www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LyWWybDW62MYH
Probably made in China but that's the trade off for cheap.
Yeah I would like to see something on good vise
Not really a fair test as there both completely different saws with different tpi (teeth per inch), the stanley being used for more heavy duty work such as construction and the other for wood working.
I would argue that it is a perfectly fair test. It is not a test of which is the better saw at it's intended use case. It is a test of which is the better saw to have in your toolbox if you are going to have only one saw for woodworking and carpentry, and the Japanese saw is simply the better general purpose saw, as shown by this test.
Henry Tittywinker the Japanese saw is a good saw, But the stanley is more heavy duty and would of been a fairer test had it had finer teeth.
He actually addresses that multiple times in the video, stating that this is not the intended use, for each, but as building a generic tool box with the basics that is in everyone's price range, he was trying to find a single saw that could be pressed into doing different types of sawing.
That Ryoba style saw has been used in Japanese woodworking for years for the same heavy duty kind of work. Cutting on the pull stroke just allows for better quality work.
the japanese saws are so precise
Donald Giese mostly thanks to human anatomy, the body is much stronger and precise when pulling while pushing goes all over the place, guess it's because while we had plenty of rock and metal to play with in the medieval age, the Japanese had to rely on treated wood for both their castles and armors (well, their castles were still using rock for their foundations and the richer samurai was able to afford a full metal armor, but really resource wise it was much cheaper to treat wood to make it more impervious to cuts and almost entirely fireproof)
the Japanese is obsessed with precision, quality and fine details... it think their oldest wooden building (a 5story temple) is over 1300yrs old and has withstand many earthquakes among other things over the centuries, so when it comes to wood work i would like to think that the Japanese know a thing or 2....
@Kristian Uh, got a bit wild on thenames there: *common folk
I just bought the $18 Irwin from Lowes and I realized that I hated and never used handsaws until now because all my old ones were dull as poo and I'm in a hurry.
It probably wont stay sharp for long, but I spent less than $20. Lat night I cut a huge tenon in a 4X6 in like 10 minutes, and I would have just given up before, used my skill saw and finished the last 1" with an old hand saw.
A saw is a tool that I have personally had difficulty using. Blade length seemed to matter as well as the handle. Thanks for showing the difference between the two saws you demonstrated.I agree that a "pull" saw is the ideal for me; pushing a saw to start isn't my ability. I'm a "pull" person. I"m a woman too, and I do my best to use leverage to my advantage when it comes to construction/ carpentry tools.I've been out of the trade since my son was born seventeen years ago, but I still get a buzz to get into the work at home.The tool kit is a great idea!
14:35 That's actually the entry side of the Japanese saw, since you're pulling it.
Question is, who thought that it is a good idea to cut on the push?
Pulling is much more stable!
If you have to saw for a very long time, which you did back before power tools, it's easier to push than to pull. You have more power to push a saw than to pull it.
@@bryansfistfulofwood4620 I guess if you you have more mass then my, it's true.
I have to agree. I've used push saws for years, now I've got a pull saw, and my normal push saw has lost nearly all its purpose.
@@bryansfistfulofwood4620 - There is no evidence this is true as far as I know... in fact my intuition would tell me the opposite but I am not claiming that as I don't know for sure. What I would say is it is a fact that if you have no skill with either the pull cut ones will always win... that said I know that skill can make either work nearly as good so I suppose it it all personal preference at that point.
A pull saw will always cut straighter because physics work in your favor.
I actually picked this saw up, and have been really pleased with it thus far. Thanks to your recommendation!
It makes you wonder how we ever came to the conclusion that sawing by pushing was a good idea. Hope I win this. :)
Right, I just tried a pull saw the other day for the first time and was blown away at how quickly it bit into the wood and started cutting cleanly.
Western way of doing things= brute strength (most of the time)
Japanese way of doing things= delicate and well thought out (generally)
not possible the american way is to push forward not go back because heck why not
it boils down to different philosophies towards life. Western mindset says dominate and subdue nature we are supreme beings. Eastern philosophy says work with nature as we all share a place on Earth. Honestly look at the difference in architecture too Western imposes a structure on the land and replaces it with concrete and uses nails and cares little for how the wood grows. Eastern uses the natural grain to determine how the structure goes together. Both work but one takes more energy and less thought, the other takes more thought and less energy.
Great saw, crappy plane. How about instead of the bargain-basement $20 plane that you call "serviceable" maybe recommend a $30-$40 hand plane that's actually decent quality and a person won't regret buying because they want to replace it with something better immediately?
ChicoMillion I have that plane and it does a fine job for me.
You could say that about every tool tho. Yea just spend 10 more and you get this and that. 10-20 tools later you spent $100-200 more.
He is putting together a value "kit" so someone who might want to start from fresh could buy everything at once. And i doubt someone like that would notice the diffrence from a $20 plane and a $40 plane anyway. Could even end up regretting buying the more expensive plane when he actually didnt like woodworking at all.
And the last point. What stops the person who bought the $30-40 plane from regretting that he didnt buy a $50-60 plane right away? Then he might aswell buy the $100 plane right away?
Jimmy Wännström: to each their own. I couldn't imagine giving up the convenience and time-savings the single one-hand adjustment knob gives me on my Stanley bench planes. And I've got a question using your logic, would it be better to spend only $20 on a plane that's missing important features and then a person replaces that with a better tool for $30-$40 later on as I suggested, OR should the beginner take some good advice from those who know the difference between the features of these tools and spend the $30-$40 up front? Maybe Wranglerstar should be offering a couple of bargain options because knowing what I know about the planes that I use, that $20 plane would be unacceptable to me.
I bought it a while back. It worked fine them and still does. I've since added more/better planes to my collection. I still have it and I still use it. Rounded the edges a bit and use it as a scrub plane now. If you don't have much money but want to try a hand plane it'll do the job. But of course there are better planes for more money...
Buck Bros hand plane from home depot. Took me an hour or so to get it all tuned up, but once I got it flattened, and the plane sharpened, it has been working fine for me. Would I like a nice vintage stanley or a lie nielsen? yes. Would it work better? Probably. But until then, the buck bros, has been doing just fine.
I like my Gyokucho, however this test is unfair. That saw which is the same as I own cost me $52. That is the the same saw that you used against the Stanley, not the $28 Ryoba that you linked to.
If you're referring to the saw in 9:08,, it seems to have the same logo as the Ryoba saw in the link.
Edit: Looking online I found out Ryoba is a classification, not a brand name. Ryoba literally means "double blade", and refers to such saws as presented in the video.
Thanks for taking the time to reach out to us who don't know what to look for in each tool
if you hold the saw properly western saw will cut better every day
The other saw is a construction saw and the other is a carpenter saw. I really have a hard time thinking anyone would use the Japanese pull saw on construction or the "western" saw for fine work. The "western" saw has gotta be faster, otherwise its useless. I think both saws types are (and have been) used in Japan and Europe for a long time. Granted, the Japanese have done fine woodworking (and metal working) with great attention to detail, as have the European craftsmen. It's kinda like the question is the Japanese samurai better than European sword of the same period. I think it mostly depends on the blacksmiths who made them. If you are a large and strong dude, you might pick a larger and heavier Viking sword over a samurai sword. If you are a smaller dude, you might pick the samurai.
I just don't get why they've ever built push saws. Obviously such thin metal will always bend (and cause more friction) so it either bends or it has to be made thicker which means more work. And then of course the push saw uses the human anatomy in a worse way, since we're using weaker muscles. Our back musles are much stronger so it's easier to pull and the thin sawblade straightens itself since we're only applying force when we're pulling on it. I just don't understand push saws at all. Maybe they are better when you're kneeling on a board and cutting it from above. I don't know.
@@stauffap great question and insights...I would like to know more.
Is this Kylo Ren's father? 💪🙏
I recently picked up a Japanese pull saw at harbor freight and it is awesome. Cuts fast and it's so light.
Are you related to Doug Benson?
If that were the case, I imagine Doug would be using a lot more wooden pipes :)
not liking the pure white background...its hard to look at.
Agree. Grey background would be better.
love the video but the background is really to bright
K P thank you for saying this respectfully
Same here. Tons of blank white on LCDs is really hard on the eyes. Even just a medium gray instead would be a big improvement.
hello there, i really like all your videos and work, i'm a follower from Egypt and i'm a HUGE HUGE fan , im 23 years old and what i really like about your channel and videos is than not only do i learn about DIYs, tools and how things are made etc. but also you provide us with a lot of other information and knowledge of all sorts of things like advice, Stories , terminologies, books (like the other day when you were telling us about a summary of a book that was talking about relationships and how one should not take his/her spouse for granted and stop caring for yourself and so on) and many more things. At the end of almost every video i find my self learning a lot more than what the title of the video indicated you inspired me alot and i've learnt from you a lot of REAL manly things and manly etiquette and how to act and deal with various things that i might encounter with and i will definitely be putting all the things that i've learnt from you into good use.......so for that Thank You
Well ofc you can't make a straight cut when you use it wrong. Stanley saw is also a pull saw, meaning it cuts when you pull. By forcing it to cut when you push you were bending it. Also as you said, this a not a speed race so don't push too hard on the saw. When you do that the teeth grab more and don't cut but rip the wood and then you get a terrible looking edge.
All he proved is that he has no idea how to use a saw. Pull saws are fine if that's what you like but a Stanley Fat Max was never intended to do more than wack a tree limb off or finish the cut on a stair stringer.
I agree that Cody has no idea how to use the Stanley "WESTERN" style saw. I wish the camera included how he was holding the saw's during the cuts. It was apparent that he lacked total control of the Stanley due to improper grip and a total lack of ability to control the saws direction, as he twist the blade on each stroke.
I've worked with many older carpenters who used Stanley style saws and they could cut clean straight lines without torturing the saw as Cody was doing. They showed me the proper saw grip and I was able to improve my accuracy by 99% with just a few days practice. This was a very poor test when he lacked the knowledge of how to use one type of saw, which introduced a bias into the testing.
Why do they cut on the push? You can get so much more power from a pulling motion.
well .. speaking from experience, it's not true, you pull your bench off the ground, saw horse pops over.. also, unless you can pick up more than your weight, it is physically impossible to achieve what you say. It is also safer, I just got my japanesse saw today, and already cut myself - my bad - but when you push away and it slips you won't cut yourself. I love both my saws, and I am learning to choose the proper job for each
Western saw plates are much longer (more teeth will cut) + body weight is working for you.
Based on the research I have done, saws that cut on the pull generally give cleaner cuts since the force is more consistent, using the weight of the blade all the way through the cut, and the pulling motion provides the right amount of tension to keep the blade straighter for accurate cuts. Also the smaller, finer teeth aid in accurate cuts. However, they don't cut as much material per motion as a saw that cuts on the push would, so it does take a bit more work but gives cleaner cuts.
Saws that cut on the push use your force/body weight combined with the weight of the blade to take off more material per motion. The downside to this is that people with poor technique tend to not use the right amount of pressure and make uneven cuts and bending the blade and teeth in the process. However, most American made crosscut saws cut on the push and pull motion , providing superior cutting power with more teeth that are coarser, while sacrificing accuracy.
Conclusion: Japanese style push saws for accurate cuts (designed for woodworking). American made crosscut saws or bow saws for maximum cutting power.
Martin Rodriguez, good and accurate assessment.
I know right?
I unsubscribed your channel a while back because of your click bait titles. You explained yourself a couple days back, but it still doesn't agree with me.
But: Your titles are back at a discriptive and useful style so here take my subscription again... looking forward to your videos again!
cheers
I appreciate how you explain what you’re doing for new people watching thank you !
Awesome saws! I have missed using hand saws. They bring back memories of working with my father and grandfather before we had so many power tools. Cutting by hand is more rewarding.
I screwed up a cut with my radial today so I thought I would get a Japanese pull-saw was skeptical about how straight of a cut I would net out of it. It was pretty amazing. It has become one of my favoriye tools. Thank you for the suggestion and you have a new subscriber.
Old habits die hard. You seemed to be trying to start your Japanese saw with a push stroke. Muscle memory is a strong influence on technique, sometimes making the change to Japanese saws a little difficult. The pull action keeps the extremely thin blade in tension and thus straight, while the saw, being extremely sharp cuts well with its own weight as it is drawn through the wood and our muscle memory wants us to saw in the manner we are accustomed to with our Western saws, which runs counter to the appropriate method for Japanese saws. Cross cutting in particular leaves an excellent standard of finish. My own experience with these saws has been wholly positive. Gyokucho also include a back saw in their range and a very good flush-cut saw.
Many thanks for all the super vids , I learn something new and useful every time, and often find myself asking " why haven't I thought of doing it that way." Thank goodness for You Tube and your and many others informative and inspirational presentations. Thru them I never stop learning and refreshing my knowledge and skills after many years absence from the trade. All the best, from UK.
I have used japanese saws in the past and agree, if the application fits the range of these saws, they are wonderful to use. Cutting on the pull stroke has great advantages.
I'm a professional wooden boat builder and we use Japanese saws, almost exclusively. I own a 'boutique' western style dovetail saw. Very pricey --and I never use it. The top notch Japanese saws are prone to Brocken teeth if used roughly and carelessly. A Shark Saw fro the hardware store is a very affordable Japanese style saw that cuts beautiful and handles abuse remarkable well.
these Japanese saws are a gem. oh how direct and accurate these saws are. these are something special. good quality is good quality.
This is the type of content that I subscribe for, useful and how to
I do like this Japanese saw. especially after how you demonstrated the benefits that the saw offers. thanks once again for the care you take in showing to use and take care of the tools.
wow cody what you invest in video equipment really pays back! these videos with the white curtain looks so profesional!
it is interesting that it feels like every carpenter on youtube fell in love with the japanese saws. I want to try them out, but here in chile it is a real expense to get one of those, the shipping is a real headache (takes like 4 months, beside the expense) one day I'll get to try it out, just hope it is soon.
also I want to thank you cody because the huge help that you give me with the english language, since spanish is my native language, learning english is a real must, listening to you just talking is a huge help in training my listening skills.
You are probably one of my favorite youtubers I don't care about click bait I love your content ALL of it
I'll be honest, if I were in a store and saw a "Japanese Saw" next to a traditional saw, I wouldn't even consider the Japanese style. That is until watching your videos. I'm 100% sold, and think including the dovetail saw would be a good idea as well.
I have seen those used a lot for fine woodworking, This is now on my list of items to purchase for my tool kit.