I also am going back and watching older videos and started today with this series again. When my feed is lacking uploads I go to my favorite channels and watch older stuff over again.
for the price I would buy it I am a disabled vet so my woodworking shop helps me with my PTSD. I am just starting out and you have been a big help getting me started. I wake every day hoping you put up a video, thank you so much for everything I have built a few things and my family likes them. I am looking into chisels I have 2 a 3/4 and a 1 inch I shapened best I could they are ok for rough work but not fine work. I wood really love to have a tool box by you and the tools of course but the tool box would mean the most. Thank you again and God bless don't like the haters get you down for every 1 hater there are 10 that look forward to your video. Pete USMC
Thank you for your service Pete. As you've found it's a great hobby that you get pleasure working with your hands and creating something that not only you enjoy but others do to.
Ok, so I'm a gal who has always wanted to work with wood making household items, ie, bookcases, small tables, floating shelves, filigree embellished shelf supports, etc. Unfortunately, all my cousins and my brother took over all the fine tools from our parents, so I'm trying to build up my hand tool collection. Thanks for the very informative video about planes as I knew little to nothing about what to look for and how to choose. I have a respect for tools as that was my dad's profession as a machinist and tool and die man... He's the one who made sure that I had the best scissors and a great well made sewing machine for my sewing... Thanks again and keep in mind please that maybe there are more women out there who need to learn about tools from your experience and candid comments.
N. in the last year, I hope you have begun serious yt research. There are a lot of guys that have suggestions, there are, however, a lot of GALS that have woodworking sites.
Simon WoodburyForget power tools are great but sometimes you just can’t afford them, I have many power tools but can’t afford a jointer and thicknesser so hand planes it is. It’s all about situation and as I am 14 it’s just not plausible for me to spend $600 on a jointer and another couple hundred on a thicknesser
@@dt2419 also sometimes there's just no space! I'm living in a house with 8 other people, 3 cats and 2 dogs. I can't have an electric jointer and planer on *top* of a tablesaw and compound miter saw. I literally have nowhere to put those! A hand plane, on the other hand, can do the job of both and takes up about 1/20th the space. simon is assuming a lot about N's situation and desires
784th view here, Some people claim that stained glass windows in old churches are thicker at the bottom than at the top because glass flows slowly like a liquid. We’ve known this isn’t true for quite some time now; these windows are thicker at the bottom owing to the production process. Back during medieval times, a lump of molten glass was rolled, expanded, and flattened before being spun into a disc and cut into panes. These sheets were thicker around the edges and installed such that the heavier side was at the bottom. just wanted to share information which is what the internet is for. Love wranglerstar and all his videos.
I was disappointed when Cody explained his story because I knew it was not correct, you almost want it to be true though. It makes you think about what else in your daily life may be incorrect while it may seem to make total sense...
hey know this is a older vid, but wanted u to know I live in somewhat city, enjoy outdoors and woodworking. starting a retail store of video games, nothing to do w any of this stuff right, well unless building something, but every morning watching your show sets and starts my day stress free and relaxed feeling like can accomplish anything, for that I thank you. for no matter what someone is doing in their lives you are a inspiration and true example of what I think a man should be and mean. truly a joy to watch! God bless!
Glass being fluid seems to be a myth according to newer research. The reason old panes were thicker at the bottom is because glass production was hard and one end would be thicker. The thickest part was installed at the bottom to ensure good weight distribution.
LSLencrypted yes its a common myth repeated by many tour guides of old buildings. if the glass is old enough it would have been blown into a cylinder and then slit and made to lay flat while still hot. the reason originally why all windows were made up of small panes. but even after that glass manufacture wssnt perfect and warped panes of varying thickness was common.
LSLencrypted yea I'm sure it's the way they were produced. Most old windows have huge ripples going through them, if you look at them in the right sun light they look really wavy especially next to a house with new machine made windows
Thanks. I hate this old wives tale. Pre float glass (pouring molten glass on to a molten salt bath) it was darn near impossible to get flat glass. The more you know.
With exactly this kind of reasoning (didn't know if I really wanted to be serious about woodworking, but wanted to try), I bought a Draper plane a lot like this one a couple of years ago. And after a quite a few hours of sanding away at the sole, you really start to evaluate your time versus your budget! Especially if it's your leisure time, because it doesn't feel like a fun hobby.
Yea, just about to say that. IT is thicker on bottom but only becuase they put them that way, because the didnt make them "perfectly" flat as they can do it now.
"You're gonna do this....looong time" I laughed out loud! I am looking forward to this series and I would love to see your review of a inexpensive Dewalt chisel set next. Thank you.
Tool kit: -A Marking Guage! -Marking Knife -Small Machinist Square -#4 Plane -4-in-hand or 1/2 round file -spoke shave -1/4, 1/2, 3/4, & 1" Chisels -Brace & Bits or Power Drill -Some clamps -Some more clamps -Tenon Saw -Rip Saw, or one of those modern combination saws -Some sort of sharpening system ( I use diamond stones, but they aren't cheap) I think this can do just about anything with enough effort and patience. First add-on would be a Router Plane (I made mine) or a combination plane.
Since I don't have diamond plates, and no plate glass, I just used my diamond knife sharpener and went side-to-side with the flat and the bevel. Went from medium to fine, and then polished on a strop charged with 15,000 grit polishing compound. This took awhile, but it got my buck bros chisels and block plane razor sharp with mirror polished edges. Nice video!
Hey Cody, I would bet that most of your viewers have skills that are closer to Jack's level than they are to yours, and I'm sure that the results would be the same with either of those tools. I'd like to see both of you each build a tool box side by side. I'm sure that I'd learn a lot more by watching Jack learning how to do it the right way also!
Thanks Cody for the analysis. I think that Stanley has hit a special niche in the market with this little plane; if one doesn't mind the work tuning it as you showed. $20 is a no brainer for something that you may only use once in a while. I look forward to the chisels as well. GOD BLESS!
Cody, Great idea! Love your channel. My suggestion would be to do these in this order: Measuring devices first (tape, try or speed square, carpenters square, & plumb bob/chalk line) then, The saws (crosscut, rip, back, and hack), Chisels (1/2", 3/4", & 1"), Files and rasps (flats, half-rounds, and rat tails in fine, coarse. and rasp cuts), Hammers (carpenter's, tack, and ball peen - and maybe a set or hand sledge), Drills (power and hand), braces and bits, Sanding block(s) and papers, Screwdrivers, Pliers (utility, vice-grip, & needle nosed), Clamps, Whetstone, Retractable utility knife, and .... (perhaps) A book on woodworking (have you ever thought of writing one - "in your 'spare time'"? Your knowledge and style would probably make it a best seller.) In any case, it's your channel, your choice - just my suggestions.
+1 to Super Geek comment. The book would be a nice addition. To the woodworking series would be nice to add a dedicated episode about protecting wood surface, hard and softwood. Both for indoor use and outdoor use. Maybe these informatons were present and i missed them in older vids but it would be really nice to gather all that into one episode.
Literally transitioning into building guitars from scratch. No room for power tools as I work out of my loft. Almost every item on this series is on my list. Such a coincidence and, rest assured, I will put them to honest, good work...pick me!
Hey Cody! I am a woodworker and I have a brand new vintage Stanley no.3. I already have my own no.3 and I'd love to send it to you! I know you need it in your collection :)
Learned a bunch about planes! Gotta go get all of ours good and tuned up. Makes sense why we were having problems with them on a few projects. Thanks Cody!
Hey Cody let's be honest if you run the sole of your plane on 320 grit paper and get the result you did why stay with 320? Go to a 120 or 100 grit until its flat then work up to 320.
Hi. I really admire woodworking, I have been working in some major furniture company's, building production furniture's. process of building drawers, adjusting doors, hinges, faces was the satisfying part. making some baby steps on my own with dad's rough tools is really lesson of how important is super fine adjustment on every tool for fine results. seeing you commenting on this hand plain really highlight, translate the processes sensitivity, possibilities if it. hand tools such as saw, chisels, is something I would like to see you commenting on. Thanks
Cody I am a glazier and the comment about glass being a liquid is not accurate. When they made glass on the old days they ran it through rollers and that's where you get the thicker end. Also I have a Stanley Bailey #4 if you would be interested in it for the tool box giveaway. It may need refurbished. You did a great job on the Stanley #2.
Shavedaver --I beg to differ sir. Pure Silicon Oxide glass is a "hyper-viscosity super critical fluid" at STP (1 ATM/30 deg C). when glass is in this "solid" state, the molecules aren't latticed. The disorganized state is susceptible to drift by gravity, albeit extremely slowly.
Haha except there ISN'T a defined right way. You may lay the blade on a stone, okay, or when it's on its side you may hit the blade with a metal tool, no difference there. Probably safer if the blade isn't exposed. You do it however you want, but saying "some people just don't get it" like your way is far superior and if experts don't agree with you then you must be more knowledgeable than them is ignorant.
I just bought this plane a week ago from Amazon for less than $20 with free prime shipping. I spent close to 3 hours flattening the sole at 80 grit, when the entire surface was touched I moved to 150 for half an hour, then a big jump to 600 grit (fresh out of everything in between) for half an hour. The 80 and 150 grits were dry and the 600 was wet. I found that after a few dozen passes on dry paper, you can run a magnet along the paper to collect the filings. All that gave me a near mirror finish. I'm still working on the iron, but I've reground the primary bevel to an accurate 25° with plans for a 30° secondary. I'm currently working on getting the back 100% flat. After an early test run with a blade only at a 25° 600 grit bevel, I noticed the twin nuts are a pain in the @$$ to use. I kept over tightening one, then the other, took many tries to get it level. Then I wanted to adjust the depth and had to do the whole process again. Might get easier with practice. With my very limited woodworking knowledge, I'd say it's worth about what I paid for it. It doesn't exactly appear to be a diamond in the rough, but certainly a slightly frustrating, yet usable alternative to the expensive ones once tuned properly.
its in the background of this video if you look close, I think he was trying to show you could accomplish the tune up with just sandpaper if thats all you have
The beginning of an awesome series. This is where it begins. Prepare to be brought on an informative journey. New creative thoughts will spark in your mind. Along the way your character may also improve with the honest and humble demonstrations of how to be a good man (or person...) that people can trust.
@@B_COOPER if it’s that far from flat I’d probably reassess the worth of it. As mentioned in the video it’s very easy to take to much and create a weak area in the sole. I guess what I’m saying is while it’s tempting to go more aggressive generally speaking it’s not a good idea, but maybe that’s just me. I have a Stanley 46 I’m thinking about restoring but the skates are kind of ruff, I’m concerned I will remove the nickel plating but as I typed this I realized that’s a different situation. Anyway when it comes to restoring old tools there many stories of destroying old tools so going easier is better.
@@chrisw1462 I have no problem leaving a plane on its sole provided it is on my wood bench, free and clear of any metal. The plane blade edge is certainly tough enough to withstand moderate contact with wood, without damage. Try it and report back to us if you wish.
I just thought it was interesting how big of a deal he made about the thinness of the cheap blade-it looks thicker than the old Stanley blades for all my old bailey style planes. Also, why did this dude start with 320 grit on something so rough? I would have started with like 60 or something and worked my way up, Just me tho.
DigitalMocking I used to buy handplanes at flea markets. Most were so rusty that I had to start under 100 grit. Maybe this plane is too thin and he didn't want to risk taking too much
raphaelbianchi You can only take too much if you keep grinding beyond when the entire surface has been flattened. Up until that point you haven't removed enough. Also that glass is too thin to be counted on as flat, especially on an uneven surface. Most likely the center was low, and now the plane sole has a slight bow. If you can't find thick glass (if you watch your local classifieds you should be able to find something before long for very cheap or free), then stack multiple sheets of thinner glass. Each layer helps to reduce the amount it can flex and conform to the surface below.
I purchased the exact same plane and used a granite flat stone to surface the foot of the plane. My experience was identical to Wranglerstar - the foot is severely cupped.
Start with 60 grit if you've got a lot to do. But don't stop short like he did - use a more aggressive grit to start with and work up to 320 but get the surface flat. There is no need to ever go finer than 320 on a plane bottom so he actually started with what he should have finished up with. The entire idea is making the sole flat - shiney doesn't matter.
I am just getting started and I have heard about how bad Stanley cheap planes are but your video demonstrated that these tools can work. I am impressed and perhaps now I can start with less expensive plane. Thank you.
Neil Degrass Tyson would disagree with you about the old stained glass windows... I watched a documentary where he refuted that statement by claiming that the art of making glass wasnt as refined as it is now and that would explain any irregularities in the different panes. Also, there is no solid record of anyone finding this to be true, only word of mouth folk lore.
glass used to be made on a spinning wheel, and therefore, due to physics, more material would be pushed to the outer edge. Then, the glass would be cut into panels, and as us labors do, heavy end down, giving the appearance that the glass was "dripping" downward
If the glass was making the bottom edge 'fatter', then the lead would have opened up, possibly causing the pane to leak when raining, but definitely you would notice the difference when the wind blew.
chisels would be great and how about an affordable sharpening stone kit? love the channel and content I've learned a lot and can't wait to see what's next thanks a lot.
Depending on what you are using it for that Lansky puck sharpening stone should do the trick and it's like $8 on amazon. I just bought one and it's well worth the price.
Because your lucky to get it for that price, people jack the prices on them because there are "collectors" who want them and they dont care about Joe Shmoe trying to find and restore himself an old tool.
well done, you're the first person I've seen on youtube demonstrate the safest way to test the edge of a blade, too many people lose fingers doing it the stupid way.
That glass thing is a myth my friend. most likely the reason it was harder to pull out at the bottom is because the paint used over the years built up and sealed the gap more at the bottom.
Great video. It's very refreshing to hear someone with a realistic perspective on this. All these forums would have you believe that it's absolutely critical for you to buy multiple $300 planes first thing or else your entire life will be unfulfilling and you'll die alone and unloved. Like c'mon guys, the rest of us aren't trying to make heirloom-grade furniture for a living. Some of us just want to occasionally make functional flat surfaces and the hyperbole about all economically-priced planes being indistinguishable 100% useless garbage doesn't help and obviously isn't true. The other classic gem of "just get a pre-WW2 Stanley for $5 from a friend like I did" is even worse -- now I have to feel bad about my tools _and_ feel guilty about the modest money that I spent 🙄.
As a former shop teacher I always taught my kids to NEVER set a plane down on the sole. Even on wood. Always set it down on the side. Yeah, I know it's knit picking. LOL
Because if you learn to never set it down that way, even on wood, you probably won't set it down on anything harder, aka, metal. It can dull the iron. Call it a learned reflex.
Wayne Novotny Paul Sellers debunks that practice with a good explanation that kids are kids, and a plane iron is at LESS risk when it's sitting on wood than on edge where a stray chisel could wack it. I've gotten out of the habit of laying a plane on its side.
Same here. But it also required lot of sanding to make it flat. I started with 320, but quicky went to 180 and then smoothed all out with 320 again. It went mega faster with 180 I guarantee you that.
8:59 glass being a really thick fluid is a myth, i remember back in college chemistry classes chit chatting with the professor and we entered into the topic, and he explained me that glass cant be a fluid because (insert bunch of chemistry that i cant quite recall) and probably the glass was insterted with the thicker part down to make it more stable. fast forward not so long ago, i got a chance to talk to some architecture students and they told me that in their field is pretty common knowledge that before machines and such, perfectly flat glass was hard to come by, so everyone ended up with glass kinda missshapen to an extent, so they would put the thicker part of the glass down so its more stable. and this is supported by the fact that 300 year old telescopes still work perfectly, and the lenses havent changed a bit, or that even older windows are not even more deformed
Ok, I bought it. I followed the same plan you showed to sharpen it (watched it twice). Gotta say, works good for me. I can feel that it's not a high quality plane and it takes some time to set up, but it works great. I really enjoyed the start to finish process of setting it up and it was almost super easy after watching you go through it. Honestly, the best tip was to check either side for the depth of cut to make sure it's equal in depth. Thanks again!
Good for you George. Truth is, unless you spend 300+ you are going to have to go through all those steps anyway, with a new plane or something older from eBay. The only difference is how long it takes. I chose the eBay route for a 1920's Stanley 4, but that was my personal choice. And yes, I spent probably 3 hours flattening and sharpening it.
I made my own plane and it is harder to adjust than that Stanley, and I do allot of small projects out of free fire wood, which here in Michigan is mostly sugar maple, or white oak, so some of us need something better for hard woods, my iron was a cut off from a cracked coal transfer shovel it holds an edge well enough, but needs sharpening often. Love your videos, thank you for all you do.
1. Make sure you're using poured glass as it is much flatter. 2. Start with a coarser grit to decrease time spent sharpening. 3. Thoroughly rinse and/or wipe whatever it is you're sharpening before moving to the next sharpening stone to avoid compromising the finer grits. 4. Finish the flattening process before assessing the overall "finished" quality of the product. 5. Know more about planes before reviewing them.
MakingGear personally, I have three Japanese pull saws all of different tooth sets, but the one I use the most has a 10(ish) inch combination blade. that being said, you can't really sharpen the Japanese style blades.
5 hours of your time and all those sheets of abrasive, suddenly this is not a $20 plane anymore LOL If you were to buy this, (I would not) please use some #150 wet and dry sandpaper to bring the bottom flat, much quicker. Like I said, I would not buy this plane, I think by spending just a bit more, another $20 you would have a tool that would be much less frustrating to use. If you do get further into woodworking this plane would quickly be eclipsed by better planes, so then what? Well what I would do is plan for this plane to become obsolete as an everyday bench plane once you do get better planes, at that time grind a much more aggressive camber on the plane and turn it into a scrub plane, then it would no longer be obsolete. I really do think that you can get away with inexpensive chisels, handsaws and other tools, (make your own mallet for example) but a hand plane is a bit more complex and you should spend some money on it, this is too cheap, in my opinion. YMMV
If you need to put that much time into tuning up a NEW plane, I wonder if the time would be better spent on finding a decent used older plane and doing that work to it. Might spend $20-30 on an older Stanly standard plane, but I wonder if it would last longer in general...
It makes sense to use it, with glass, to diagnose how flat the sole is, however, 320 grit sandpaper to grind metal to flatness makes no sense. Why not start with 80, before moving on to a finer grit? Sandpaper ≥320 grit is strictly for finishing. Also, you assert that the iron can be sharpened using sandpaper. Why not demonstrate that, instead of using whetstones --- which you even admit are a big investment???? I really wanted to like this video. I'm a beginner. I love the concept. But he is playing teacher. Bits of misinformation, here and there, add up. P.S. What you refer to as "leather" is called a strop, and these can also be made from canvas and other materials, not strictly leather.
Yup, if you can afford diamond stones, then you can probably stump up a bit more cash for a better plane. Also this plane is nowhere near the cheapest plane, at least not now. There are planes that use a piece of bent sheet steel as a base, instead of cast iron.
A couple of things: glass is rarely flat and it is flexible. you should flatten a plane sole with a flat file checking with a straight egde (or really go old school and use a machinist's scraper, and a reference flat), then stone the bottom smooth. The sandpaper trick is definitely a hobbyists dodge. A new plane iron back needs to be cheched for flattness with a straight edge and ground flat if it is not true. The bevel should be ground to an accurate 25 degrees before trying to hone. Youll probably spend two to three days getting this plane to work properly. That may or may not be worth your time depending. But if you are serious about craftsmanship and dont have a lot to spend, just buy one excellent block plane to start, then add a medium bench plane next year. They will take you a long way.
Mr. Cody, that look you gave after you put the plane on the sandpaper and said, "You're gonna do this for a long time" was the funniest thing I've ever seen you do. I laughed pretty hard at that. Thanks for another great video. The plane has always been my nemesis. You've given me a different way of looking at it and fixing up what may be a cheapy.
yea, but like a guitar, if you consider the time you spend setting it up(not to mention using it), it makes more sense to start out with a quality instrument imo. Time and attention are our most valuable assets
M ZAKRIA yes that’s fine, I’m only 14 and am restoring my first hand plane on the weekend however I have used Stanley’s, record and lie nielsen planes and they all require a bit of tuning, lie Nielsen less than others but my point was just that it isnt always easy, anyone can do it but it takes time and patience
M ZAKRIA and yes I understand how the plane iron works, you sharpen it and generally it lasts a while, then you have to sharpen it again. Just don’t make the mistake of buying new blades like ive seen people do
I am not very new to this channel but I am new to this series. I am not sure if the kit has even been given away yet but so I may enter in case it hasn't, I have been wanting to start up woodworking and blacksmithing but never knew where to start. Thanks to you Mr. Wranglerstar I now know what to start with. Thank you.
As much as some of us would like the Rolls Royce of all tools we can only afford the cheap Chevy, like myself I am trying to survive on a disability income check so I approve of your testing and rating the cheaper tools. Lets get the cutting tools done first then move on to non cutting and measuring tools. thank you for all your input.
You enjoy being big buster bad ass and bully the disabled, I think if you check you will find out your brain is disabled, I only stated that living on a disabiilty income does not leave you with a lot of extra money to afford the finer of things thanks for showing your true colors
Jim Myers bullying the disabled? grow a pair, simply stating the truth, shouldn't be wasting tax money on your hobby when you're " trying to survive " seeing as how you can still cut wood i doubt you can't work due to what ever your disability is, you identifying items as " Rolls Royce " and " cheap chevy " really shows how fucked your priorities are, you'd think someone in your condition wouldn't care about quality but here we are, " bully " 😂
Jim Myers Jim Myers if you could read and comprehend you'd know i assumed given your weak excuses for living off taxes you dont deserve. i doubted someone with multiple disabilities, one being mental capacity that they could make living as a wood worker
Phoenix2079x How could you assume anything about my disability I never made any excuses for my disability and never posted the cause of my disability. I am sorry if I said anything to offend you and no I get no pride out of collecting disability I would rather still be working, when I was working I was making 4x the amount I collect from disability how people think disability is a great pay day is beyond me people on welfare make a lot more than we people on disability do.
i love looking at you guys but i got alot of tools for a diy kinda guy but its more like a hamer a crowbar an impact drill an electric screw driver screwdrivers wrenches tongs but no woodworking tools whatsoever. i just aint got the room nor the money its something i would like to build upon for the future like when im old and got time to spare :-)
Hendrik Schepkens if you make appropriate racking and storage you might be able to squeeze it all in. For example you mention you have a prybar I have a MDF shelf with holes that holds my crowbars and my hammers and takes up about a foot of space
If you want to get into woodworking, look up the Paul Sellers videos, if you have not already done so. The man who made this video is doing his best, but is not a patch on someone who really *knows* what they are talking about.
Paul Sellers and Matt Estlea are both great choices. This guy does way too many things wrong and lacks a general understanding of what he is talking about.
@@gregcassell I read Paul Sellers and buy his books. He is great, but this is also a great video. I admire the good photography, the clear description of the Stanley plane, and the good judgment displayed in improving quality without excessive refinement. I learned from this video and appreciate the insights.
If you're looking for a good video on planes, check out Matt Estlea's series. Matt DEFINITELY knows what he's talking about! th-cam.com/video/J0ZV8sSS1Jo/w-d-xo.html
@@famousforever8556: "All"?? No. Nobody's expecting him to know it "all." But, if you're going to review something, you're not very credible if you don't know the basics about the item you're reviewing... and that includes its various parts. Especially when said "review" includes an attempt at making the tool viable.
My father-in-law bought this plane for me as a birthday gift about 4 years ago. After sharpening the iron it cuts great. Mine does not have the curations on the handles like this one. I do have trouble getting a square cut though. Always takes more along the right side than the left. I’ve since bought a Stanley no. 3 from the 30s that I prefer to use, but still use this one from time to time to teach my son a few things.
cody, I want to congratulate you on what this channel is about, you just teach, stuff that the years have tought you, I learn it in minutes and now the toolbox series is just perfect for a beginer just like me. Thank you cody, greetings from Chile
thanks for the video, I bought this plane a while back but could never get the thing to work at all even after sharpening it. When you flipped the iron around so the bevel was down it changed the whole tool. I did not have instructions or I lost them, but it came bevel up so I thought that's how it went. I just went and tuned up a few things and it works pretty darn well now so thanks for the info.
Good, serviceable tool. Nice. I have some antiques left from my late father, but I hesitate to use them much - I want to preserve them for MY son. I may pick up one of these basic planes. Thanks Cody.
Great video. I also liked the intention of talking about afordable tools for those who cant spend a lot of money with it but has the desire to work in it. Thanks man.
I love what you said about getting together as neighbors, as a community to help out your fellow man. We are a close community where I live and we do just that. I'm an electrical contractor by trade with a good number of years experience in HVAC/R, so I'm always helping out where I can, likewise my neighbors, and not just in the construction field, but with all sorts of talents and skills. I can picture me bringing my new Wranglerstar tool box and tools to the next backyard project! Great video sir. Cheers!
I like the plane you just tested for a home tool kit. It is perfect for the home user that will use it infrequently and not care whether it has plastic rather than walnut knob and handle. The settings and adjustments may be coarse, but it looks like you got nice shavings with it. I'd want one in my tool kit.
I have just started buying tools for building a shed to do woodwork in. The plan is to build the shed, then the bench and things inside it for beginning woodwork. I needed to see this video. I had no idea the lengths to goto to test a plane and make it functional at the lower price end. I'll be going through all your other posts now for more advice like this. Thanks
I really wish I found this series of videos 2 years ago, would have saved me some money on complete GARBAGE tools. I'm slowly building myself a woodworking "shop" following the advice and guides from this channel. It's really brought that fascination with woodworking back, something I haven't had in 20 years, can't thank Cody enough.
Nice, thats the best bench plane ever. In Holland they sell these under the brand of Skandia. I restored the one of my brother, he has one of these. I made i hairshavinsharp and flattened the bottom. Now he is very glad with it. Youre right, you can do just fine with that thing. Looking forward to the next episode of common mans tool kit. By the way, in holland the sell these for 15 euro, thats around 16 or 17 USD
GET YOUR STANLEY PLANE HERE FOR ONLY $19 FREE SHIPPING!! goo.gl/Pwkrpb
I would appreciate it if you could also have 480 p quality, I can barley watch this in anything above.
Wranglerstar here in sedalia missouri it is 70 and windy
Jason, I was able to get lower resolution after a page reload.
I have an option to watch in 480.
do harbor freigt chisels they are not that bad i own em
"You should be able to sharpen every tool in your shop"
Well, I don't know how you did it, but I gave up once I got to the socket set.
LOL 😂
Yeh same my hammer was tricky to sharpen
Swinging back through this series. Really enjoyed this type of content on the channel and glad these vids are still available.
I also am going back and watching older videos and started today with this series again. When my feed is lacking uploads I go to my favorite channels and watch older stuff over again.
for the price I would buy it I am a disabled vet so my woodworking shop helps me with my PTSD. I am just starting out and you have been a big help getting me started. I wake every day hoping you put up a video, thank you so much for everything I have built a few things and my family likes them. I am looking into chisels I have 2 a 3/4 and a 1 inch I shapened best I could they are ok for rough work but not fine work. I wood really love to have a tool box by you and the tools of course but the tool box would mean the most. Thank you again and God bless don't like the haters get you down for every 1 hater there are 10 that look forward to your video. Pete USMC
Peter Karpovich Thank you so much for your service
thank you for your service Peter
Peter Karpovich ; thank you for your service.
Thank you for your service Pete. As you've found it's a great hobby that you get pleasure working with your hands and creating something that not only you enjoy but others do to.
Thank you for your support
As a 15 year old with school and a part time job, I’m glad you make videos like this to show there are cheaper tools that will get the job done
Ok, so I'm a gal who has always wanted to work with wood making household items, ie, bookcases, small tables, floating shelves, filigree embellished shelf supports, etc.
Unfortunately, all my cousins and my brother took over all the fine tools from our parents, so I'm trying to build up my hand tool collection. Thanks for the very informative video about planes as I knew little to nothing about what to look for and how to choose. I have a respect for tools as that was my dad's profession as a machinist and tool and die man...
He's the one who made sure that I had the best scissors and a great well made sewing machine for my sewing...
Thanks again and keep in mind please that maybe there are more women out there who need to learn about tools from your experience and candid comments.
N. in the last year, I hope you have begun serious yt research. There are a lot of guys that have suggestions, there are, however, a lot of GALS that have woodworking sites.
Simon WoodburyForget power tools are great but sometimes you just can’t afford them, I have many power tools but can’t afford a jointer and thicknesser so hand planes it is. It’s all about situation and as I am 14 it’s just not plausible for me to spend $600 on a jointer and another couple hundred on a thicknesser
@@dt2419 also sometimes there's just no space! I'm living in a house with 8 other people, 3 cats and 2 dogs. I can't have an electric jointer and planer on *top* of a tablesaw and compound miter saw. I literally have nowhere to put those! A hand plane, on the other hand, can do the job of both and takes up about 1/20th the space.
simon is assuming a lot about N's situation and desires
12:15 Your gonna do this....for a LOOOOONNNNGGG time. (Looks into the camera ominously) LOL!!! Comedy GOLD!!!
SundayFoggyNotions I thought that was funny too. The look of someone that's done that many times before.
SundayFoggyNotions I Busted Out Laughing when he made that look! so glad you mentioned it. Cody's humor is top shelf.
done this before. i actually nodded off a little bit. sooo boring.
I laughted hard on that one as well! Hahaha!
SundayFoggyNotions hh
784th view here, Some people claim that stained glass windows in old churches are thicker
at the bottom than at the top because glass flows slowly like a liquid.
We’ve known this isn’t true for quite some time now; these windows are
thicker at the bottom owing to the production process. Back during
medieval times, a lump of molten glass was rolled, expanded, and
flattened before being spun into a disc and cut into panes. These sheets
were thicker around the edges and installed such that the heavier side
was at the bottom. just wanted to share information which is what the internet is for. Love wranglerstar and all his videos.
ClarkusAurelius ummmmm fact check?
yes, i heard that too. It's a semi viscous material and will break under it's own weight after time.
I was disappointed when Cody explained his story because I knew it was not correct, you almost want it to be true though. It makes you think about what else in your daily life may be incorrect while it may seem to make total sense...
I've heard it referred to as a frozen liquid.
ClarkusAurelius I expected him of all people to know that
hey know this is a older vid, but wanted u to know I live in somewhat city, enjoy outdoors and woodworking. starting a retail store of video games, nothing to do w any of this stuff right, well unless building something, but every morning watching your show sets and starts my day stress free and relaxed feeling like can accomplish anything, for that I thank you. for no matter what someone is doing in their lives you are a inspiration and true example of what I think a man should be and mean. truly a joy to watch! God bless!
Glass being fluid seems to be a myth according to newer research. The reason old panes were thicker at the bottom is because glass production was hard and one end would be thicker. The thickest part was installed at the bottom to ensure good weight distribution.
LSLencrypted yes its a common myth repeated by many tour guides of old buildings. if the glass is old enough it would have been blown into a cylinder and then slit and made to lay flat while still hot. the reason originally why all windows were made up of small panes. but even after that glass manufacture wssnt perfect and warped panes of varying thickness was common.
LSLencrypted yea I'm sure it's the way they were produced. Most old windows have huge ripples going through them, if you look at them in the right sun light they look really wavy especially next to a house with new machine made windows
Yeah and if you were setting your glass down, wouldn’t it make sense to set the thicker end at the bottom
Thanks. I hate this old wives tale. Pre float glass (pouring molten glass on to a molten salt bath) it was darn near impossible to get flat glass. The more you know.
exactly what i said
With exactly this kind of reasoning (didn't know if I really wanted to be serious about woodworking, but wanted to try), I bought a Draper plane a lot like this one a couple of years ago. And after a quite a few hours of sanding away at the sole, you really start to evaluate your time versus your budget! Especially if it's your leisure time, because it doesn't feel like a fun hobby.
The old glass is not fluid at all. It is just a common myth. I'm also really digging the new background and lighting setup
Yea, just about to say that. IT is thicker on bottom but only becuase they put them that way, because the didnt make them "perfectly" flat as they can do it now.
Just started teaching my boys (7 and 5 yrs old) about tools, safety, etc. They are enjoying watching these videos with me!
"You're gonna do this....looong time" I laughed out loud! I am looking forward to this series and I would love to see your review of a inexpensive Dewalt chisel set next. Thank you.
Darn...you beat me to it! I LOL just as hard!
Tool kit:
-A Marking Guage!
-Marking Knife
-Small Machinist Square
-#4 Plane
-4-in-hand or 1/2 round file
-spoke shave
-1/4, 1/2, 3/4, & 1" Chisels
-Brace & Bits or Power Drill
-Some clamps
-Some more clamps
-Tenon Saw
-Rip Saw, or one of those modern combination saws
-Some sort of sharpening system ( I use diamond stones, but they aren't cheap)
I think this can do just about anything with enough effort and patience.
First add-on would be a Router Plane (I made mine) or a combination plane.
I'd be curious to see what you could figure out with a few paper clips and a head of lettuce MacGyver!
Be ElTree well, clearly build a Bridgeport mill ;-)
Just another day's work!
Forgot a coping saw.
I'd add:
- Tape measure
- Card scraper
- Utility knife (marking knife?)
- Reciprocating saw (for its versatility)
- Probably calipers
This probably just demonstrates my ignorance, but I think a saw would be next. In my mind sizing wood comes before shaping it.
Totally agreed. Next tool would be hand saw.
Dave B I second that.
I feel like you need both though because once you make the cuts for say a dovetail joint, you immediately need chisels to fit them together perfectly.
Ill go with the saw next too.
Since I don't have diamond plates, and no plate glass, I just used my diamond knife sharpener and went side-to-side with the flat and the bevel. Went from medium to fine, and then polished on a strop charged with 15,000 grit polishing compound. This took awhile, but it got my buck bros chisels and block plane razor sharp with mirror polished edges.
Nice video!
Hey Cody, I would bet that most of your viewers have skills that are closer to Jack's level than they are to yours, and I'm sure that the results would be the same with either of those tools. I'd like to see both of you each build a tool box side by side. I'm sure that I'd learn a lot more by watching Jack learning how to do it the right way also!
Oh, gee. Thanks for the confidence in our abilities and intelligence. We watch to gain new skills, not because we're child-like idiots.
Sorry My intention wasn't meant to offend anyone. As an average viewer, my skills aren't anywhere near Cody's.
I'm a long time viewer and have nothing but the utmost respect and admiration of what Cody does!
I agree with you completely. Cody's viewers are very knowledgeable, but how often does the average person use a block plane?
But isn't that the hole idea bye watching this?? To upgrade your approach and skill level - that will not happen watching Jack put a box together...
Thanks Cody for the analysis. I think that Stanley has hit a special niche in the market with this little plane; if one doesn't mind the work tuning it as you showed. $20 is a no brainer for something that you may only use once in a while.
I look forward to the chisels as well.
GOD BLESS!
Cody,
Great idea! Love your channel.
My suggestion would be to do these in this order:
Measuring devices first (tape, try or speed square, carpenters square, & plumb bob/chalk line) then,
The saws (crosscut, rip, back, and hack),
Chisels (1/2", 3/4", & 1"),
Files and rasps (flats, half-rounds, and rat tails in fine, coarse. and rasp cuts),
Hammers (carpenter's, tack, and ball peen - and maybe a set or hand sledge),
Drills (power and hand), braces and bits,
Sanding block(s) and papers,
Screwdrivers,
Pliers (utility, vice-grip, & needle nosed),
Clamps,
Whetstone,
Retractable utility knife,
and .... (perhaps) A book on woodworking (have you ever thought of writing one - "in your 'spare time'"? Your knowledge and style would probably make it a best seller.)
In any case, it's your channel, your choice - just my suggestions.
+1 to Super Geek comment. The book would be a nice addition.
To the woodworking series would be nice to add a dedicated episode about protecting wood surface, hard and softwood. Both for indoor use and outdoor use. Maybe these informatons were present and i missed them in older vids but it would be really nice to gather all that into one episode.
Literally transitioning into building guitars from scratch. No room for
power tools as I work out of my loft. Almost every item on this series
is on my list. Such a coincidence and, rest assured, I will put them
to honest, good work...pick me!
Hey Cody! I am a woodworker and I have a brand new vintage Stanley no.3. I already have my own no.3 and I'd love to send it to you! I know you need it in your collection :)
I sure do! Thank you Wesley, please email me at cody@wranglerstar.com
I'll pay you 1 doll hair to send it to Cody for another awesome video!
This is fun seeing what things I might need for an entry level wood working kit. I appreciate the know-how and realism you bring to the idea.
Thanks for reminding me about hand tools while I save up for power tools!
I miss THIS Wranglerstar. The world needs THIS MAN more than it needs the version we have now. Come back, internet dad/uncle/mentor/bro!
Learned a bunch about planes! Gotta go get all of ours good and tuned up. Makes sense why we were having problems with them on a few projects. Thanks Cody!
I follow you guys on TH-cam and on instagram!! You two are doing a great job on building your debt free home!!
Funny thing is i bought this very plane for your timber framing class.... lol
i seen some of these in the series of the timber framing class on their channel too. wasn't aware this was one of their knowledge sources lol.
Hey Cody let's be honest if you run the sole of your plane on 320 grit paper and get the result you did why stay with 320? Go to a 120 or 100 grit until its flat then work up to 320.
yeah i was thinking that too, jumping to 200 grit would speed up that process quickly.
Yea, I sharpened my hammer yesterday!
gadgetmantwincities Maybe you could sharpen your wit next!
Just kidding. I couldn't resist!
Hi. I really admire woodworking, I have been working in some major furniture company's, building production furniture's. process of building drawers, adjusting doors, hinges, faces was the satisfying part. making some baby steps on my own with dad's rough tools is really lesson of how important is super fine adjustment on every tool for fine results. seeing you commenting on this hand plain really highlight, translate the processes sensitivity, possibilities if it. hand tools such as saw, chisels, is something I would like to see you commenting on. Thanks
Cody I am a glazier and the comment about glass being a liquid is not accurate. When they made glass on the old days they ran it through rollers and that's where you get the thicker end. Also I have a Stanley Bailey #4 if you would be interested in it for the tool box giveaway. It may need refurbished. You did a great job on the Stanley #2.
Shavedaver --I beg to differ sir. Pure Silicon Oxide glass is a "hyper-viscosity super critical fluid" at STP (1 ATM/30 deg C). when glass is in this "solid" state, the molecules aren't latticed. The disorganized state is susceptible to drift by gravity, albeit extremely slowly.
Shavedaver Gravity is not just a good idea.. it's the law.
Moran Tactical I agre..a fluid..or semi fluid..
My friend fluid and liquid are not the same. For example, air is fluid but not liquid.
Glass flowing is a myth. The reason for panes being thicker are due to old manufacturing techniques. I can't believe people are still perpetuating it.
My dad always said plains should lay on there side. Seeing them like this makes me anxious.
What was his reasoning for that? Hearing from hand plane experts, they lay them on their sole with absolutely no problems.
Haha except there ISN'T a defined right way. You may lay the blade on a stone, okay, or when it's on its side you may hit the blade with a metal tool, no difference there. Probably safer if the blade isn't exposed. You do it however you want, but saying "some people just don't get it" like your way is far superior and if experts don't agree with you then you must be more knowledgeable than them is ignorant.
Harry Smith On where side?
Thats a religious discussion really :)
Jens Jakobsen what?
I just bought this plane a week ago from Amazon for less than $20 with free prime shipping.
I spent close to 3 hours flattening the sole at 80 grit, when the entire surface was touched I moved to 150 for half an hour, then a big jump to 600 grit (fresh out of everything in between) for half an hour. The 80 and 150 grits were dry and the 600 was wet. I found that after a few dozen passes on dry paper, you can run a magnet along the paper to collect the filings. All that gave me a near mirror finish.
I'm still working on the iron, but I've reground the primary bevel to an accurate 25° with plans for a 30° secondary. I'm currently working on getting the back 100% flat.
After an early test run with a blade only at a 25° 600 grit bevel, I noticed the twin nuts are a pain in the @$$ to use. I kept over tightening one, then the other, took many tries to get it level. Then I wanted to adjust the depth and had to do the whole process again. Might get easier with practice.
With my very limited woodworking knowledge, I'd say it's worth about what I paid for it. It doesn't exactly appear to be a diamond in the rough, but certainly a slightly frustrating, yet usable alternative to the expensive ones once tuned properly.
Take those adjustment screws off and throw them in your spare parts bin. for adjustment see my post to Wranglestar above.
Beautiful shavings. Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate the sharpening and tuning process!
i've got to say i never knew these facts about planes. thank you for the tips.
Simple Green. Its one of the greatest smells that can be had.
So what ever happened to the Russian made sharpening system? Is it still something you use?
its in the background of this video if you look close, I think he was trying to show you could accomplish the tune up with just sandpaper if thats all you have
The beginning of an awesome series. This is where it begins. Prepare to be brought on an informative journey. New creative thoughts will spark in your mind. Along the way your character may also improve with the honest and humble demonstrations of how to be a good man (or person...) that people can trust.
As far as sanding the bottom of the plane, why not switch to a coarser grit instead of spending hours sanding on a fine grit?
Because you don’t want to sand away material unnecessarily your only looking to flatten the bottom not make it thinner.
7y and 7d ago for both of you damn
@@diakounknown1225 hey, I don’t control algothingy lol
@@roysnider3456how would you sand away more material you need when it’s not flat?
@@B_COOPER if it’s that far from flat I’d probably reassess the worth of it. As mentioned in the video it’s very easy to take to much and create a weak area in the sole. I guess what I’m saying is while it’s tempting to go more aggressive generally speaking it’s not a good idea, but maybe that’s just me. I have a Stanley 46 I’m thinking about restoring but the skates are kind of ruff, I’m concerned I will remove the nickel plating but as I typed this I realized that’s a different situation. Anyway when it comes to restoring old tools there many stories of destroying old tools so going easier is better.
I'm not sure how much I trust a guy who has an expensive plane but never really took apart and couldn't tell you what the backing iron is
And leaves it sitting on it's sole!!! Sacrilege!
@@chrisw1462 I have no problem leaving a plane on its sole provided it is on my wood bench, free and clear of any metal. The plane blade edge is certainly tough enough to withstand moderate contact with wood, without damage. Try it and report back to us if you wish.
I just thought it was interesting how big of a deal he made about the thinness of the cheap blade-it looks thicker than the old Stanley blades for all my old bailey style planes. Also, why did this dude start with 320 grit on something so rough? I would have started with like 60 or something and worked my way up, Just me tho.
Why not start with 200 grit and then move to 320 to cut your time way down?
DigitalMocking I used to buy handplanes at flea markets. Most were so rusty that I had to start under 100 grit.
Maybe this plane is too thin and he didn't want to risk taking too much
raphaelbianchi You can only take too much if you keep grinding beyond when the entire surface has been flattened. Up until that point you haven't removed enough. Also that glass is too thin to be counted on as flat, especially on an uneven surface. Most likely the center was low, and now the plane sole has a slight bow. If you can't find thick glass (if you watch your local classifieds you should be able to find something before long for very cheap or free), then stack multiple sheets of thinner glass. Each layer helps to reduce the amount it can flex and conform to the surface below.
DigitalMocking 200 grit diamond stone or lower would make quick work of leveling that plane out as well. Better yet buy a cheep synthetic.
I purchased the exact same plane and used a granite flat stone to surface the foot of the plane. My experience was identical to Wranglerstar - the foot is severely cupped.
Start with 60 grit if you've got a lot to do. But don't stop short like he did - use a more aggressive grit to start with and work up to 320 but get the surface flat. There is no need to ever go finer than 320 on a plane bottom so he actually started with what he should have finished up with. The entire idea is making the sole flat - shiney doesn't matter.
I am just getting started and I have heard about how bad Stanley cheap planes are but your video demonstrated that these tools can work. I am impressed and perhaps now I can start with less expensive plane. Thank you.
Neil Degrass Tyson would disagree with you about the old stained glass windows... I watched a documentary where he refuted that statement by claiming that the art of making glass wasnt as refined as it is now and that would explain any irregularities in the different panes. Also, there is no solid record of anyone finding this to be true, only word of mouth folk lore.
glass used to be made on a spinning wheel, and therefore, due to physics, more material would be pushed to the outer edge. Then, the glass would be cut into panels, and as us labors do, heavy end down, giving the appearance that the glass was "dripping" downward
Evan Goodwin, I recall something about spun glass in the documentary I was watching. Thanks for your input :)
If the glass was making the bottom edge 'fatter', then the lead would have opened up, possibly causing the pane to leak when raining, but definitely you would notice the difference when the wind blew.
Dave WasinColchester, another great point!
veritasium does a very good job of explaining...
chisels would be great and how about an affordable sharpening stone kit? love the channel and content I've learned a lot and can't wait to see what's next thanks a lot.
Do what the old timers did. Use a combination india stone (Norton) and a leather strop.
Good call!
Depending on what you are using it for that Lansky puck sharpening stone should do the trick and it's like $8 on amazon. I just bought one and it's well worth the price.
Good idea Aaron , a good sharpening stone set would be great
I bought a 1920s sweetheart number for $20 why not buy vintage for the same money?
Dewalt chisels have served me well $32 for a set at Home Depot.
Because your lucky to get it for that price, people jack the prices on them because there are "collectors" who want them and they dont care about Joe Shmoe trying to find and restore himself an old tool.
well done, you're the first person I've seen on youtube demonstrate the safest way to test the edge of a blade, too many people lose fingers doing it the stupid way.
I know I'm 2 years late, but try out the Grizzly 10in Smoothing Plane on amazon. Its around $37 and it is awesome.
were are you siting?
S C in a chair is my guess. haha jk
S C ... looks like the set of the 1971 movie THX1138
That glass thing is a myth my friend. most likely the reason it was harder to pull out at the bottom is because the paint used over the years built up and sealed the gap more at the bottom.
Great video. It's very refreshing to hear someone with a realistic perspective on this. All these forums would have you believe that it's absolutely critical for you to buy multiple $300 planes first thing or else your entire life will be unfulfilling and you'll die alone and unloved. Like c'mon guys, the rest of us aren't trying to make heirloom-grade furniture for a living. Some of us just want to occasionally make functional flat surfaces and the hyperbole about all economically-priced planes being indistinguishable 100% useless garbage doesn't help and obviously isn't true. The other classic gem of "just get a pre-WW2 Stanley for $5 from a friend like I did" is even worse -- now I have to feel bad about my tools _and_ feel guilty about the modest money that I spent 🙄.
This is looking like it is going to be a nice little tool kit.
The plane seems to take a great edge and you really receive a great value for such an inexpensive tool!
As a former shop teacher I always taught my kids to NEVER set a plane down on the sole. Even on wood. Always set it down on the side. Yeah, I know it's knit picking. LOL
why would you no put it on wood? its the material you cut.
because it can damage the tables
Because if you learn to never set it down that way, even on wood, you probably won't set it down on anything harder, aka, metal. It can dull the iron. Call it a learned reflex.
what I was trying to say. its about working habbits in
Wayne Novotny Paul Sellers debunks that practice with a good explanation that kids are kids, and a plane iron is at LESS risk when it's sitting on wood than on edge where a stray chisel could wack it. I've gotten out of the habit of laying a plane on its side.
I am so glad I discovered how much investing in tools can improve life at an early age - can't wait to build my own woodworking kit!
Bought my first plane, Stanley #4 Bailey
Same here. But it also required lot of sanding to make it flat. I started with 320, but quicky went to 180 and then smoothed all out with 320 again. It went mega faster with 180 I guarantee you that.
8:59 glass being a really thick fluid is a myth, i remember back in college chemistry classes chit chatting with the professor and we entered into the topic, and he explained me that glass cant be a fluid because (insert bunch of chemistry that i cant quite recall) and probably the glass was insterted with the thicker part down to make it more stable.
fast forward not so long ago, i got a chance to talk to some architecture students and they told me that in their field is pretty common knowledge that before machines and such, perfectly flat glass was hard to come by, so everyone ended up with glass kinda missshapen to an extent, so they would put the thicker part of the glass down so its more stable. and this is supported by the fact that 300 year old telescopes still work perfectly, and the lenses havent changed a bit, or that even older windows are not even more deformed
Wow that's awesome 👍 thanks for the info
Ok, I bought it. I followed the same plan you showed to sharpen it (watched it twice). Gotta say, works good for me. I can feel that it's not a high quality plane and it takes some time to set up, but it works great. I really enjoyed the start to finish process of setting it up and it was almost super easy after watching you go through it. Honestly, the best tip was to check either side for the depth of cut to make sure it's equal in depth. Thanks again!
Good for you George. Truth is, unless you spend 300+ you are going to have to go through all those steps anyway, with a new plane or something older from eBay. The only difference is how long it takes. I chose the eBay route for a 1920's Stanley 4, but that was my personal choice. And yes, I spent probably 3 hours flattening and sharpening it.
I made my own plane and it is harder to adjust than that Stanley, and I do allot of small projects out of free fire wood, which here in Michigan is mostly sugar maple, or white oak, so some of us need something better for hard woods, my iron was a cut off from a cracked coal transfer shovel it holds an edge well enough, but needs sharpening often. Love your videos, thank you for all you do.
Can you sharpen planer blades on the TSPROF Russian shapener?
Justin Seabaugh I was wondering where the knife sharpener went
1. Make sure you're using poured glass as it is much flatter.
2. Start with a coarser grit to decrease time spent sharpening.
3. Thoroughly rinse and/or wipe whatever it is you're sharpening before moving to the next sharpening stone to avoid compromising the finer grits.
4. Finish the flattening process before assessing the overall "finished" quality of the product.
5. Know more about planes before reviewing them.
Unless you’re using antique glass, all glass is float glass. Not poured, poured would not be flat at all.
Great idea Cody, I could use some info on saw or saws. Do I need two? Until then I'm MakingGear, God bless !
MakingGear personally, I have three Japanese pull saws all of different tooth sets, but the one I use the most has a 10(ish) inch combination blade. that being said, you can't really sharpen the Japanese style blades.
Where I'm from "gear" is slang for heroin
I enjoy your careful examination, explanation, demonstration, and frank analysis...and in the end you have a serviceable tool!
I love woodworking I have a basic starting shop
I have one bench planet and a draw knife and a bit and brace
colin duvall - me too!
5 hours of your time and all those sheets of abrasive, suddenly this is not a $20 plane anymore LOL
If you were to buy this, (I would not) please use some #150 wet and dry sandpaper to bring the bottom flat, much quicker.
Like I said, I would not buy this plane, I think by spending just a bit more, another $20 you would have a tool that would be much less frustrating to use.
If you do get further into woodworking this plane would quickly be eclipsed by better planes, so then what? Well what I would do is plan for this plane to become obsolete as an everyday bench plane once you do get better planes, at that time grind a much more aggressive camber on the plane and turn it into a scrub plane, then it would no longer be obsolete.
I really do think that you can get away with inexpensive chisels, handsaws and other tools, (make your own mallet for example) but a hand plane is a bit more complex and you should spend some money on it, this is too cheap, in my opinion.
YMMV
If you need to put that much time into tuning up a NEW plane, I wonder if the time would be better spent on finding a decent used older plane and doing that work to it. Might spend $20-30 on an older Stanly standard plane, but I wonder if it would last longer in general...
I'm glad you are putting this kit together. this will be great for beginners. i'm looking forward to seeing this kit come together.
It makes sense to use it, with glass, to diagnose how flat the sole is, however, 320 grit sandpaper to grind metal to flatness makes no sense. Why not start with 80, before moving on to a finer grit? Sandpaper ≥320 grit is strictly for finishing. Also, you assert that the iron can be sharpened using sandpaper. Why not demonstrate that, instead of using whetstones --- which you even admit are a big investment???? I really wanted to like this video. I'm a beginner. I love the concept. But he is playing teacher. Bits of misinformation, here and there, add up.
P.S. What you refer to as "leather" is called a strop, and these can also be made from canvas and other materials, not strictly leather.
Yup, if you can afford diamond stones, then you can probably stump up a bit more cash for a better plane. Also this plane is nowhere near the cheapest plane, at least not now. There are planes that use a piece of bent sheet steel as a base, instead of cast iron.
A couple of things: glass is rarely flat and it is flexible. you should flatten a plane sole with a flat file checking with a straight egde (or really go old school and use a machinist's scraper, and a reference flat), then stone the bottom smooth. The sandpaper trick is definitely a hobbyists dodge. A new plane iron back needs to be cheched for flattness with a straight edge and ground flat if it is not true. The bevel should be ground to an accurate 25 degrees before trying to hone. Youll probably spend two to three days getting this plane to work properly. That may or may not be worth your time depending. But if you are serious about craftsmanship and dont have a lot to spend, just buy one excellent block plane to start, then add a medium bench plane next year. They will take you a long way.
Generic, all-purpose TH-cam support comment.
Same here, been watching a while. Good series, love the videos.
Insightful reply
Mr. Cody, that look you gave after you put the plane on the sandpaper and said, "You're gonna do this for a long time" was the funniest thing I've ever seen you do. I laughed pretty hard at that.
Thanks for another great video. The plane has always been my nemesis. You've given me a different way of looking at it and fixing up what may be a cheapy.
It seems a bench plane is a lot like a guitar. You can get by with a cheap one as long as you set it up properly.
M ZAKRIA not really that simple, depends on the plane but you generally need to flatten the bed, sharpen the blade and tune it in other ways
yea, but like a guitar, if you consider the time you spend setting it up(not to mention using it), it makes more sense to start out with a quality instrument imo. Time and attention are our most valuable assets
M ZAKRIA yes that’s fine, I’m only 14 and am restoring my first hand plane on the weekend however I have used Stanley’s, record and lie nielsen planes and they all require a bit of tuning, lie Nielsen less than others but my point was just that it isnt always easy, anyone can do it but it takes time and patience
M ZAKRIA and yes I understand how the plane iron works, you sharpen it and generally it lasts a while, then you have to sharpen it again. Just don’t make the mistake of buying new blades like ive seen people do
The Glock of planes =P Glocks arnt the cheapest. This is the Hi-Point of planes
when you starting your job????????
I am not very new to this channel but I am new to this series. I am not sure if the kit has even been given away yet but so I may enter in case it hasn't, I have been wanting to start up woodworking and blacksmithing but never knew where to start. Thanks to you Mr. Wranglerstar I now know what to start with. Thank you.
Why don't you use that fancy sharpening system you have
because not everyone has one. The purpose of this video is to show you how to do this on a budget
As much as some of us would like the Rolls Royce of all tools we can only afford the cheap Chevy, like myself I am trying to survive on a disability income check so I approve of your testing and rating the cheaper tools. Lets get the cutting tools done first then move on to non cutting and measuring tools. thank you for all your input.
Jim Myers lol, funny shit what people prioritize when disabled, guess they have more than one disability
You enjoy being big buster bad ass and bully the disabled, I think if you check you will find out your brain is disabled, I only stated that living on a disabiilty income does not leave you with a lot of extra money to afford the finer of things thanks for showing your true colors
Jim Myers bullying the disabled? grow a pair, simply stating the truth, shouldn't be wasting tax money on your hobby when you're " trying to survive " seeing as how you can still cut wood i doubt you can't work due to what ever your disability is, you identifying items as " Rolls Royce " and " cheap chevy " really shows how fucked your priorities are, you'd think someone in your condition wouldn't care about quality but here we are, " bully " 😂
Jim Myers Jim Myers if you could read and comprehend you'd know i assumed given your weak excuses for living off taxes you dont deserve. i doubted someone with multiple disabilities, one being mental capacity that they could make living as a wood worker
Phoenix2079x How could you assume anything about my disability I never made any excuses for my disability and never posted the cause of my disability. I am sorry if I said anything to offend you and no I get no pride out of collecting disability I would rather still be working, when I was working I was making 4x the amount I collect from disability how people think disability is a great pay day is beyond me people on welfare make a lot more than we people on disability do.
If 400 more people could point out that the liquid glass thing is a myth, that would be great.
There’s a Adam savage video on it I believe
I love your honesty. If you don't know something you admit it. Enjoying the video now.
i love looking at you guys but i got alot of tools for a diy kinda guy but its more like a hamer a crowbar an impact drill an electric screw driver screwdrivers wrenches tongs but no woodworking tools whatsoever. i just aint got the room nor the money its something i would like to build upon for the future like when im old and got time to spare :-)
Hendrik Schepkens if you make appropriate racking and storage you might be able to squeeze it all in. For example you mention you have a prybar I have a MDF shelf with holes that holds my crowbars and my hammers and takes up about a foot of space
Seriously, when you get old you ain't got no time to spare.
@@stgeorge6947 That doesn't make a difference if he doesn't have the money Scooby
I’m 13 and I love your videos I really want to get into wood working and I hope one day that I’ll have any were near the craftsman ship you do
If you want to get into woodworking, look up the Paul Sellers videos, if you have not already done so. The man who made this video is doing his best, but is not a patch on someone who really *knows* what they are talking about.
Paul Sellers and Matt Estlea are both great choices. This guy does way too many things wrong and lacks a general understanding of what he is talking about.
@@gregcassell I read Paul Sellers and buy his books. He is great, but this is also a great video. I admire the good photography, the clear description of the Stanley plane, and the good judgment displayed in improving quality without excessive refinement. I learned from this video and appreciate the insights.
Sad. Stopped watching when he couldn't explain the adjustable throat on the SW.
thesecondtolastdj Are you a wood Nazi?
@@bilbo_gamers6417 you don't have to be a "Wood Nazi" to know that if you want to learn something, you go to someone who knows the subject.
If you're looking for a good video on planes, check out Matt Estlea's series. Matt DEFINITELY knows what he's talking about! th-cam.com/video/J0ZV8sSS1Jo/w-d-xo.html
Yeah, he should know it all when doing a video on cheap tools 🙄
@@famousforever8556: "All"?? No. Nobody's expecting him to know it "all." But, if you're going to review something, you're not very credible if you don't know the basics about the item you're reviewing... and that includes its various parts. Especially when said "review" includes an attempt at making the tool viable.
My father-in-law bought this plane for me as a birthday gift about 4 years ago. After sharpening the iron it cuts great. Mine does not have the curations on the handles like this one. I do have trouble getting a square cut though. Always takes more along the right side than the left. I’ve since bought a Stanley no. 3 from the 30s that I prefer to use, but still use this one from time to time to teach my son a few things.
These types of tools are something I've not been able to pick up yet... I'm excited for the finished series!
Works well for the price and I think there are some great chisels out there that are adorable without compromising too much on the quality.
I just bought that planer. Thanks for demonstrating the ins and outs of it. IT HELP ME.
cody, I want to congratulate you on what this channel is about, you just teach, stuff that the years have tought you, I learn it in minutes and now the toolbox series is just perfect for a beginer just like me.
Thank you cody, greetings from Chile
Great video, not only for those looking to get into tools, but also for reviewing how to check out your tools when you first get it.
thanks for the video, I bought this plane a while back but could never get the thing to work at all even after sharpening it. When you flipped the iron around so the bevel was down it changed the whole tool. I did not have instructions or I lost them, but it came bevel up so I thought that's how it went. I just went and tuned up a few things and it works pretty darn well now so thanks for the info.
Good, serviceable tool. Nice. I have some antiques left from my late father, but I hesitate to use them much - I want to preserve them for MY son. I may pick up one of these basic planes. Thanks Cody.
Great video. I also liked the intention of talking about afordable tools for those who cant spend a lot of money with it but has the desire to work in it. Thanks man.
super excited to put this kit together and work and learn with my son on traditional wood working!
I've been using this plane for a few months now. Getting used to it still, but it's doing a decent job.
I love what you said about getting together as neighbors, as a community to help out your fellow man. We are a close community where I live and we do just that. I'm an electrical contractor by trade with a good number of years experience in HVAC/R, so I'm always helping out where I can, likewise my neighbors, and not just in the construction field, but with all sorts of talents and skills. I can picture me bringing my new Wranglerstar tool box and tools to the next backyard project!
Great video sir.
Cheers!
I like the plane you just tested for a home tool kit. It is perfect for the home user that will use it infrequently and not care whether it has plastic rather than walnut knob and handle. The settings and adjustments may be coarse, but it looks like you got nice shavings with it. I'd want one in my tool kit.
Miss the snow but I remember getting to the point were I can't wait for spring. Looking forward to this video series.
I have just started buying tools for building a shed to do woodwork in. The plan is to build the shed, then the bench and things inside it for beginning woodwork. I needed to see this video. I had no idea the lengths to goto to test a plane and make it functional at the lower price end. I'll be going through all your other posts now for more advice like this. Thanks
I would have never consider that plane until you suggested it! Thanks for the amazing well thought out tool suggestions.
I have seen this particular video perhaps 4 times now. Why? Purely for entertainment. I enjoy watching you work and find your voice relaxing.
Thanks! I didn't have a clue how to set up a plane. There is far more preparation than I would have imagined.
I really wish I found this series of videos 2 years ago, would have saved me some money on complete GARBAGE tools. I'm slowly building myself a woodworking "shop" following the advice and guides from this channel. It's really brought that fascination with woodworking back, something I haven't had in 20 years, can't thank Cody enough.
Nice, thats the best bench plane ever. In Holland they sell these under the brand of Skandia. I restored the one of my brother, he has one of these. I made i hairshavinsharp and flattened the bottom. Now he is very glad with it. Youre right, you can do just fine with that thing. Looking forward to the next episode of common mans tool kit. By the way, in holland the sell these for 15 euro, thats around 16 or 17 USD