As a 1989 G-20 van owner .. I’m really taking this one to heart … Going to the beach every day … you can really get some corrosion just about everywhere… have you done a video about the old hitting the starter with a hammer trick … it got me to the parts store .. then I drove around with the new starter fir a few weeks till I changed it … I appreciated your Honda ECM reset video…Thanks have a good weekend ..!
I've got a similar situation with my truck, the only differences are that my truck is from 1947, it runs on a 6v positive ground system, I've got brand new battery cables and a new 6v battery with the positive cable attached to the frame and the negative cable going to the starter. but i turn the key, press the start button.. nothing, no click no attempt at the starter trying to spin up. i haven't the first damn clue as to why it's not doing anything.
That's an excellent point. People don't realize that motors draw whatever current they need. If supply voltage is reduced by upstream voltage drop, the motor won't spin until it achieves the power required, and power is the product of current and voltage. So, with reduced voltage, current needs to be higher to unlock the rotor, putting more incidental heat into the thin wires inside the starter winding. With a few extra seconds drawn each day, and eventually with multiple tries to get the engine started, the insulation around those wires breaks down and the new starter dies.
I've seen some strange things with the no crank no start issue. I helped one guy figure out why you never connect your main ground to the exhaust manifold bolts. I had an Olds Cutlass that would take a few tries to get the starter to work. When I went to take the starter off, I realized it was going to be a ROYAL pain to get to it. I decided to take the battery cable off the solenoid and loosen the backup nut so I could turn that bolt half a turn and put it back together. Problem solved. That starter was still working when I pulled the engine 2 years later to put it in a Ford pickup. It never gave any trouble for the next 4 years. I've seen a lot of people replace starters and swear about getting a bad starter from the parts store when it was something else ranging from bad grounds to bad ignition switches, relays, or neutral safety switches. Even worse is having to track down broken wires or bad splices where someone has messed with the wiring.
@@WrenchingWithKenny I currently have a 69 Chevy caprice it has the 4 bolt man 350 engine The car turns over but won’t start and I replace the fuel pump and it has the four barrel carburetor Just need to help to what to do next thanks
I have the same car and it blew the fusible link going to the crank relay. There is a short between the crank relay and ground. I'm assuming the solenoid shorted to ground.
Dont hook your battery up and try to start it until you know for sure you dont have your signal wire touching the other wire. If these are touching and you hook your battery back up your car will automatically start and you will definitely blow a fuse. Then ones you get them not touching your car wont start untill you find and fix the blown fuse!
This is the problem that I'm having now after doing a transmission swap. I keep putting the negative side onto the battery and it will automatically start cranking over. I've pulled the starter out looked and signal wire isn't touching anything else. It's getting frustrating. I've looked over all the electrical stuff the ignition switch the ground ,nothing was changed. I'm going to get back under here right now, it's 2:30 a.m., and I'm going to pull my starter back out and check it one more time
I have an 02 Grand Prix with the 3800 motor in it and it won’t start but I’ve already replaced the starter and cleaned the connectors and changed the grounds but it still won’t start and I’ve checked the flywheel for damage and it’s perfectly fine. No missing teeth. But it attempts to start then it sounds like the starter disengages from the flywheel and continues to spin until I let go of the key. I’ve checked everything. I have no idea what the problem is.
My 1995 Oldsmobile 88 isn’t wanting to start I change the starter and check the battery. The battery was a little low it was 12.14.v Looks like it freezes up when it cranks and don’t wanna crank over
I drove my car in a heavy rain for more than 2 hrs and after that when I starts it just click ones no cranking sound I hope it's the same issue or may be rainy water damage the starter motor
Wish I would’ve watched this 15 minutes ago. Over tightened the brass fitting thinking it needed to be super tight and it broke off smh. I pray Autozone take it back lol
my starter on my carlo just clicks, any idea on what that could be, i will be jumping it soon, but if that dont work, and the terminals are clean on starter and battery, the starter and crank relays are good?
@@francisdsa6790 starter, alternator, and battery all new within the vehicle, the only thing im stuck in is this orange and black terminal hanging next to the starter i dont know if its a ground, or if its suppose to go on the starter, i didnt take it off i bought it like this
So I went to start my car and bumped my hand while turning it on so it didn’t fully turn. Now my car won’t turn on and makes a clicking sound. All lights a radio work. What could be the issue anyone please ????
Hey I need to ask I can't remember the wiring I took off starter. But I believe I put positive on the motor bolt. OK so I replaced the brand new starter and brand new battery. I have complete no power. I want to ask the wiring on starter I have 3. One positive battery cable. The other is the skinny wire that is tiny bolt. Then a greenish black cable. Where does that one go.
Hi, it's Mrs Wrenching. Go on to our Facebook group Wrenching with Kenny & ask your question there. Upload pictures & include year, make, model of the vehicle you're working on. You will be able to reach someone in that group faster. Kenny is driving across North Carolina. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Meg
You can also join our Facebook page Backyard Mechanics for help. Be sure to answer all the questions to join. Don't say that you're joining the group to get someone to fix your car though. The Admins will not accept your request if you say that
You may be able to google a wiring diagram . Make sure it's for that exact vehicle . In general , the older GM's had the battery cable on top , 12 o'clock position . The small purple wire went to the " S " terminal . Most cars did not use the small " R " terminal , which was to bypass the resistance wire while cranking . But you had a black wire . You need to get a wiring diagram . Check the library for a Haynes or Motor's manual . I am only using GM as an example . Don't mix up wires ! Next time make a diagram and take a picture .
I think my crank shaft position sensor is bad (got code) or selenoid is bad. So i got a no crank no start. I needed a booster to get car started. Got it to start but car lasted I only 2 days and then did the same thing. I charged battery i case it was battery. Started no crank no start. Did it again and it took 10 seconds turnover before it started. So i dont think its the starter or it wont even turn but the selenoid going bad is not popping out coukd cause it to not turn sometimes or not turn most times? From spinning and cranking? I got a code for cam shaft position sensor, which I read eventually causes no start but it doesnt say if its a no turn no start or of its a turn but no start. Alternator hasnt died or the car would lose power and turn off or just not turn and or crank at all. Other suggestions anyone? let me know please. I dont want to buy new starter and alternator just to find out issue continues. It may be ignition switch or something similar? Not sure
So to be clear a no turn, no crank, no start is happening and only booster or fully charged battery turns (so far) booster struggled tmbut started. Fully charged battery didn't turn, didn't crank, no start. Waited a few seconds did it again and it turned crank but lasted 10 seconds before finally started ( I didn't hit gas because I turned car from passenger door (driver door broken and I didn't want to get in just to hit gas ( but will next time since I don't want to go through a long turned crank again. It's weird. Anyone?
By the way I replaced battery with new battery that was sitting for a bout 3 months so I thought needed boost to recharge but then 2 days later it happened again so indent think it was the old batterybsince new battery now and still having issue.
It's Mrs Wrenching. Sorry your having a tough time. Kenny is at the shop. He suggests that you go onto Facebook Wrenching with Kenny. Input all the info about your vehicle (year, make, model) & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. Post on our other FB group, Backyard Mechanics (3.8K members) they can help too. Be sure to answer all the questions to join the closed groups. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!
@WrenchingWithKenny ok thanks. I hate Facebook and I n don't have an anonymous account but I'll see what I can do. Think the ground test will help me a lot. I saw 2 videos before bed about this as proble. May be electrical if its not starter
I hear you about FB. Both groups are closed, which means we keep a tight rein on who joins & what content can be shared. Chasing electrical issues is an absolute beast. If I talk to Kenny today I will have him take a look at your comments here. You've got this - Meg
Can you do voltage drop testing if the starter is not turning over (no crank)? When starting ignition (no crank) the voltage drop from (-) battery to starter housing is 78mv so good ground. My voltage drop from (+) battery to B-terminal jumps to OL. why?
I recently replaced a starter on a Ford explorer and the weirdest thing happened when I connected the negative battery terminal the starter started on its own? 😮
Good evening everyone! I’m hoping someone sees this and can help! We have a 1966 Chevy Impala 2 Door Hardtop that won’t start. It won’t even crank. There’s no power to the ignition. The VOLTAGE REGULATOR has been changed out as well as the HORN RELAY because prior to losing power on it, both items were very HOT! Then everything just SHUT DOWN. If anyone has experienced this issue and could help, I would really really appreciate it! thank you in advance for your help!
@denisebarragan9993 how did you determine that you don't have power to the ignition switch? Hi, It's Mrs Wrenching! You should go on the Facebook group Wrenching with Kenny and Backyard Mechanics (answer all the questions) put the year, make & model of your vehicle in your post. Be sure to include what is happening with your vehicle & what you have done to fix it so far. There are a lot of techs that may be able to help. The link is toward the bottom of the video. Keep wrenching!
So I just replaced my starter solenoid. Now the engine will only run when I'm trying to start the engine. Once I let go of the key it kills it. Please help.
@offswitch Sorry to hear your having problems. Kenny suggested you go on our Facebook group, Backyard Mechanics (3.9K members). Input all the info about your vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. Be sure to answer all the questions to join the groups. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!
@WrenchingWithKenny hey I actually figured out my problem. The entire wiring harness worked itself out. Didn't need to replace anything . Pushed it all the way in and good as new.
Look I put a starter in my my chevelle it’s it starts, but the gas is pumping through the carburetor, but it won’t crank over. What do you think it is?
I'm confused "it starts" means it's running, but you say it "doesn't crank". Cranking means the engine is turning over from the starter. Starting usually means the car starts & runs.
95 suburban, k2500, no crank, "P" dashlight only, Alarm light blinks, door locks click but don't unlock, window & OS Mirror control do nothing. Ignition interlink issue? How to test?
My 1997 Chevy had 398,000 miles when it was totaled by a drunk driver. Still ran great. I wanted to keep the truck to see how many miles I can get out of it. I also own my father's all original 1972 Chevrolet and still runs good.
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As a 1989 G-20 van owner .. I’m really taking this one to heart … Going to the beach every day … you can really get some corrosion just about everywhere… have you done a video about the old hitting the starter with a hammer trick … it got me to the parts store .. then I drove around with the new starter fir a few weeks till I changed it … I appreciated your Honda ECM reset video…Thanks have a good weekend ..!
I haven't done the hammer trick video as of yet . I'll do one when I get one
@@WrenchingWithKenny figure it would make a great short .. Thanks 😊
@@stephenrickstrew7237 absolutely !
@@WrenchingWithKenny it’s amazing how shorts get more push from TH-cam
You sir are teaching AND saving us money.
Thank you for your kind words & watching the channel. Keep wrenching 🔧
I've got a similar situation with my truck, the only differences are that my truck is from 1947, it runs on a 6v positive ground system, I've got brand new battery cables and a new 6v battery with the positive cable attached to the frame and the negative cable going to the starter. but i turn the key, press the start button.. nothing, no click no attempt at the starter trying to spin up. i haven't the first damn clue as to why it's not doing anything.
A bad connection / corrosion and or a low battery will ruin a starter happens all the time….
Just installed my starter…. But didn’t clean the wires…. 😅now I gotta disconnect em
That's an excellent point. People don't realize that motors draw whatever current they need. If supply voltage is reduced by upstream voltage drop, the motor won't spin until it achieves the power required, and power is the product of current and voltage. So, with reduced voltage, current needs to be higher to unlock the rotor, putting more incidental heat into the thin wires inside the starter winding. With a few extra seconds drawn each day, and eventually with multiple tries to get the engine started, the insulation around those wires breaks down and the new starter dies.
Dead on correct !!
I've seen some strange things with the no crank no start issue. I helped one guy figure out why you never connect your main ground to the exhaust manifold bolts. I had an Olds Cutlass that would take a few tries to get the starter to work. When I went to take the starter off, I realized it was going to be a ROYAL pain to get to it. I decided to take the battery cable off the solenoid and loosen the backup nut so I could turn that bolt half a turn and put it back together. Problem solved. That starter was still working when I pulled the engine 2 years later to put it in a Ford pickup. It never gave any trouble for the next 4 years. I've seen a lot of people replace starters and swear about getting a bad starter from the parts store when it was something else ranging from bad grounds to bad ignition switches, relays, or neutral safety switches. Even worse is having to track down broken wires or bad splices where someone has messed with the wiring.
@@WrenchingWithKenny I currently have a 69 Chevy caprice it has the 4 bolt man 350 engine The car turns over but won’t start and I replace the fuel pump and it has the four barrel carburetor Just need to help to what to do next thanks
The Exact problem i had clean it up with a wire brush and been starting up like new ever since
After putting the wires on the starter I always spray a little lacquer on the connections.
I been trying to find something on my Winnebago RV starter solenoid ,previous repairs they used any color wires an I couldn't find out what went where
I have the same car and it blew the fusible link going to the crank relay. There is a short between the crank relay and ground. I'm assuming the solenoid shorted to ground.
Great advice.
This guy is a mechanic teacher classroom 101🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
I liked your demo video.
Nice explanation
Dont hook your battery up and try to start it until you know for sure you dont have your signal wire touching the other wire. If these are touching and you hook your battery back up your car will automatically start and you will definitely blow a fuse. Then ones you get them not touching your car wont start untill you find and fix the blown fuse!
This is the problem that I'm having now after doing a transmission swap. I keep putting the negative side onto the battery and it will automatically start cranking over. I've pulled the starter out looked and signal wire isn't touching anything else. It's getting frustrating. I've looked over all the electrical stuff the ignition switch the ground ,nothing was changed. I'm going to get back under here right now, it's 2:30 a.m., and I'm going to pull my starter back out and check it one more time
I have an 02 Grand Prix with the 3800 motor in it and it won’t start but I’ve already replaced the starter and cleaned the connectors and changed the grounds but it still won’t start and I’ve checked the flywheel for damage and it’s perfectly fine. No missing teeth. But it attempts to start then it sounds like the starter disengages from the flywheel and continues to spin until I let go of the key. I’ve checked everything. I have no idea what the problem is.
My 1995 Oldsmobile 88 isn’t wanting to start I change the starter and check the battery. The battery was a little low it was 12.14.v Looks like it freezes up when it cranks and don’t wanna crank over
Did you find your solution yet? I'm having the same issue with sluggish start after driven the first time.
@@alienayee3508 not yet having another issue now there was fluid in one of the rear spark plugs got it out and it shot out of the hole.
by chance did you check out the ""Old/Bad"" starter to see if it was good?? Thanks be well
Customers won't care and say WELL IT'S ALREADY HERE SO MIGHT AS WELL CHANGE IT. Which is great for them because they get charged the same either way.
i will try this, i am new to this world, got me an 88 f150. basically same issue
Great video. Help me alot. Thanks
I drove my car in a heavy rain for more than 2 hrs and after that when I starts it just click ones no cranking sound I hope it's the same issue or may be rainy water damage the starter motor
I have a car that is doing this too and I haven't figured it out
Wish I would’ve watched this 15 minutes ago. Over tightened the brass fitting thinking it needed to be super tight and it broke off smh. I pray Autozone take it back lol
my starter on my carlo just clicks, any idea on what that could be, i will be jumping it soon, but if that dont work, and the terminals are clean on starter and battery, the starter and crank relays are good?
Test load test on battery
@@francisdsa6790 starter, alternator, and battery all new within the vehicle, the only thing im stuck in is this orange and black terminal hanging next to the starter i dont know if its a ground, or if its suppose to go on the starter, i didnt take it off i bought it like this
wait so this video is telling me, both the orange and black and main power are stacked? see i stack them and nothing, no power or anything
So I went to start my car and bumped my hand while turning it on so it didn’t fully turn. Now my car won’t turn on and makes a clicking sound. All lights a radio work. What could be the issue anyone please ????
Hey I need to ask I can't remember the wiring I took off starter. But I believe I put positive on the motor bolt. OK so I replaced the brand new starter and brand new battery. I have complete no power. I want to ask the wiring on starter I have 3. One positive battery cable. The other is the skinny wire that is tiny bolt. Then a greenish black cable. Where does that one go.
On motor bolt with wire from starter on it.?
Hi, it's Mrs Wrenching. Go on to our Facebook group Wrenching with Kenny & ask your question there. Upload pictures & include year, make, model of the vehicle you're working on. You will be able to reach someone in that group faster. Kenny is driving across North Carolina. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧 Meg
You can also join our Facebook page Backyard Mechanics for help. Be sure to answer all the questions to join. Don't say that you're joining the group to get someone to fix your car though. The Admins will not accept your request if you say that
Does the start cable go on the battery terminal or… does the run cable tie into the battery terminal? Thanks
You may be able to google a wiring diagram . Make sure it's for that exact vehicle . In general , the older GM's had the battery cable on top , 12 o'clock position . The small purple wire went to the " S " terminal . Most cars did not use the small " R " terminal , which was to bypass the resistance wire while cranking . But you had a black wire . You need to get a wiring diagram . Check the library for a Haynes or Motor's manual . I am only using GM as an example . Don't mix up wires ! Next time make a diagram and take a picture .
I think my crank shaft position sensor is bad (got code) or selenoid is bad. So i got a no crank no start. I needed a booster to get car started. Got it to start but car lasted I only 2 days and then did the same thing. I charged battery i case it was battery. Started no crank no start. Did it again and it took 10 seconds turnover before it started. So i dont think its the starter or it wont even turn but the selenoid going bad is not popping out coukd cause it to not turn sometimes or not turn most times? From spinning and cranking? I got a code for cam shaft position sensor, which I read eventually causes no start but it doesnt say if its a no turn no start or of its a turn but no start. Alternator hasnt died or the car would lose power and turn off or just not turn and or crank at all. Other suggestions anyone? let me know please. I dont want to buy new starter and alternator just to find out issue continues. It may be ignition switch or something similar? Not sure
So to be clear a no turn, no crank, no start is happening and only booster or fully charged battery turns (so far) booster struggled tmbut started. Fully charged battery didn't turn, didn't crank, no start. Waited a few seconds did it again and it turned crank but lasted 10 seconds before finally started ( I didn't hit gas because I turned car from passenger door (driver door broken and I didn't want to get in just to hit gas ( but will next time since I don't want to go through a long turned crank again. It's weird. Anyone?
By the way I replaced battery with new battery that was sitting for a bout 3 months so I thought needed boost to recharge but then 2 days later it happened again so indent think it was the old batterybsince new battery now and still having issue.
It's Mrs Wrenching. Sorry your having a tough time. Kenny is at the shop. He suggests that you go onto Facebook Wrenching with Kenny. Input all the info about your vehicle (year, make, model) & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. Post on our other FB group, Backyard Mechanics (3.8K members) they can help too. Be sure to answer all the questions to join the closed groups. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!
@WrenchingWithKenny ok thanks. I hate Facebook and I n don't have an anonymous account but I'll see what I can do. Think the ground test will help me a lot. I saw 2 videos before bed about this as proble. May be electrical if its not starter
I hear you about FB. Both groups are closed, which means we keep a tight rein on who joins & what content can be shared. Chasing electrical issues is an absolute beast. If I talk to Kenny today I will have him take a look at your comments here. You've got this - Meg
That’s why you disconnect the battery so that can’t happen
My 2014 Silverado don’t get power to start battery is good alternator starter lights been tested fuses all goood also any suggestions
What was it?
Can you do voltage drop testing if the starter is not turning over (no crank)? When starting ignition (no crank) the voltage drop from (-) battery to starter housing is 78mv so good ground. My voltage drop from (+) battery to B-terminal jumps to OL. why?
I recently replaced a starter on a Ford explorer and the weirdest thing happened when I connected the negative battery terminal the starter started on its own? 😮
Good evening everyone!
I’m hoping someone sees this and can help!
We have a 1966 Chevy Impala 2 Door Hardtop that won’t start. It won’t even crank.
There’s no power to the ignition. The VOLTAGE REGULATOR has been changed out as well as the HORN RELAY because prior to losing power on it, both items were very HOT! Then everything just SHUT DOWN.
If anyone has experienced this issue and could help, I would really really appreciate it!
thank you in advance for your help!
@denisebarragan9993 how did you determine that you don't have power to the ignition switch?
Hi, It's Mrs Wrenching! You should go on the Facebook group Wrenching with Kenny and Backyard Mechanics (answer all the questions) put the year, make & model of your vehicle in your post. Be sure to include what is happening with your vehicle & what you have done to fix it so far. There are a lot of techs that may be able to help. The link is toward the bottom of the video. Keep wrenching!
So I just replaced my starter solenoid. Now the engine will only run when I'm trying to start the engine. Once I let go of the key it kills it. Please help.
@offswitch Sorry to hear your having problems. Kenny suggested you go on our Facebook group, Backyard Mechanics (3.9K members). Input all the info about your vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. Be sure to answer all the questions to join the groups. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!
@WrenchingWithKenny hey I actually figured out my problem. The entire wiring harness worked itself out. Didn't need to replace anything . Pushed it all the way in and good as new.
@WrenchingWithKenny I replaced the starter on a 2002 e150 ford van and it just makes a clicking sound when you turn the key over can you help
Vidéo très intéressante , merci 👍
Great motor but it has a noise
Look I put a starter in my my chevelle it’s it starts, but the gas is pumping through the carburetor, but it won’t crank over. What do you think it is?
I'm confused "it starts" means it's running, but you say it "doesn't crank". Cranking means the engine is turning over from the starter. Starting usually means the car starts & runs.
95 suburban, k2500, no crank, "P" dashlight only, Alarm light blinks, door locks click but don't unlock, window & OS Mirror control do nothing. Ignition interlink issue? How to test?
im here any luck???
Mine starts fine when cold but when it warms up try starting is starts but sluggish
Same issue for me. Have you found your solution?
Thanks for this one …!
Good.🎉
Would of been easier to test the starter off the car.
A very knocky sounding motor
Was the vehicle electrics dead
Where is the ground wire??????
engine is ground. battery negative is bolted somewhere on the car body and engine. starter bolts on to the engine.
Probably used loctite lol
The first problem is that it’s a Chevy 😂
😕
My 1997 Chevy had 398,000 miles when it was totaled by a drunk driver. Still ran great. I wanted to keep the truck to see how many miles I can get out of it. I also own my father's all original 1972 Chevrolet and still runs good.
How about disconnecting the battery so your scenario does not happen????