Custom BMW Alcantara Interior DIY !!! Door Panels And Pillars
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Custom BMW Alcantara Interior DIY !!! Door Panels And Pillars
Nathan's BMW Workshop
Po Box 115 Altenburg Mo 63732
nathan.youtube@yahoo.com - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Great video but does this guy not know his please and thank yous? Poor lady being ordered around!!
thought the same. He's way to bossy
A proper DIY that I was looking for! Thank you, sir!
Very labor intensive but looks incredible
Always informative 👍🏾 I’m here for it 👌🏾
Dude thank you so much for sharing your process with us!
Man this Chanel is satisfying!
Good tip on the contact cement over using the spray. I need to redo the backs for my seats on my e30 but have been procrastinating doing them.
I like it!
I’m looking forward to the headliner vid. If you could, can you show a detailed explanation as to how to cut/tuck the corners? I’m wanting to redo the headliner in my FJ Cruiser.
The helper was on point
Great work youns! This is awesome.
Fair play - you have crazy patience to be able to do all that!
Amazing, will be doing this on a 92 Lexus sc300.
did this on my mk7 golf looks great
Great video, Nathan!
So glad you did this. Not enough videos on this for bmw, let alone good, detailed videos. So, thank you Nathan!
I've been struggling for awhile to get the pillars right, because of the foam backing. I knew the foam would just make it look too puffy, and cheap. So, in my journey, I've discovered "hem tape" They make it in different colors as to not show through in some fabric. I used black.
Hem tape is a good idea, in theory, because you do not have to sand off the original cloth backing stuck to the pillar. Just stick the original, peeled off cloth back on. Nothing more to it. And, $10 will at least get A and B pillars, both sides.
Well, surprisingly, it works. It melts into both fabrics, kinda like plastic weld, but for clothes. Don't know for how long it'll hold, though do to sun baking the cloth over time. But since it uses heat to adhere, maybe sun baking won't be a problem. I tested it by pulling in the fabric after I installed it, and to me it's the same, if not better hold than glue. You know when you think you're pulling too hard and feel as if more pressure would rip the cloth away, then give it a few little quick jerks, still won't move. So, it passes that test with flying colors.
You must work using little strips of tape at a time, setting them apart with as little gaps between as you can so its as smooth possible, starting from one edge. And then press the spot with a steamer. I used a $30 one, that came with a microfiber attachment. Takes tint off rear windows easy, too.
Anyway, I found out about this on my own. And, thought I'd share since you did such good video here for people who need help interior rebuilding.
how is it holding up?
@@jacekp8366 so far so good. California heat wave is a pretty good test. I would recommend both ways to work. The left A pillar is cloth tape, right is glue, which has puffed up a little(expanded) with the sun, but its not noticeable. The left side is still smooth and cleaner looking.
Just would like to say that I had used the same method back in 2018 and it has started to fail last summer, and the C pillars are pretty much like “curtains” now. It’s a cheap and quick method, but like most cheap and quick methods, it didn’t last long unfortunately.
Wonder if it would hold up to Texas heat? I'm having all sorts of peeling problems.
Well, it's still holding up. But now, some patches are lifting. I think it's because when the plastic mesh tape melted from the steem press, it shrank the plastic a bit, before sealing against the cloth. And/Or I didn't do a good enough job getting the tape strips I cut to covered 100%.
This made areas in between loose, and there connection to the cloth is lifting.
It looks slightly wrinkled now. So, I didn't think I'd recommend this, until I figure out how to stop this.
Go with the traditional, aftermarket headliner material. Just make sure it's no more than 1/8 inch foam backed, or else it'll look super puffy.
And, it's a good idea to use the roll-on cement, just like Nathan's DIY Garage did, rather than the spray can. It will take longer to get tacky, but it will have a nice even look that way.
Nice job! Keep ‘em coming!
Did ever think he might be an idiot! Hahahahhah, that was a good one and love the steps explained in real time. Stay safe and look forward to the next one!
Good video, you mentioned in the beginning while talking about the headliner having issues while laying material over tight bends with the glue. But never really mentioned what tecnique to use. Pls go over what tips to use when doing this to keep the material in place...thanks
Fantastic stuff !
Thanks for making this video! Unfortunately I’ve failed twice now trying to wrap an a pillar just like yours except on the top side it’s covered or capped because it’s exposed when the t tops are off. It’s a 86 trans am. There’s a small hole in the center where the t top pin goes threw which is no big deal but I’m having trouble making the corner to the top (capped off portion) without ending up with bunching. Any suggestions? Thanks again for making the video!
Very interesting Nathan
Shop looks good Nate
Question: I have a set of e36 door panels I'm working on and they used the same method on the e46 to attached the inner panel to the main door panel. Those plastic nubs melted on the other side. What would you do if those nubs were broken off completely? Gluing the inner panel on seems like a bad idea...
Thank you for the video
Well done
Very cool!
Goodjob! And what a 10/10 Wife you got that helped you :)
Nathan. I just took out the headliner on my 2006 E53 to recover it. I had the floating roof panels (sunshades) and glass out of the panoramic roof to reupholster them as well. Sadly, the assembly moved while the shades and glass were out and now I have a damned jigsaw puzzle to reassemble. Can't seem to find any helpful videos or instructions. In particular, the 2 "tensioning springs" that fasten to the sunshade(s ?) fell out and I can't see just where they go. Have you any suggestions as to where I might find some photos or helpful instruction? Of course the dealer here doesn't freely offer help to DIYers and since I created the mess, local headliner places don't want to get involved if they can avoid it. At the moment, I'm not even sure which track the slide for the rear panel goes into. Thanks in advance to you or any other commenter who stumbles across this and has any insights.
Great Video enjoyed it alot. Would like to see the headliner.. I tried it YEARS ago on a car of mine that I didnt care about just to see how id do..??.. It looked about like youd imagine it would. Completely the wrong chemical glue used.. seemed to never dry.. hung.. bubbles.. was hilarious.. Future X girlfriend said shed NEVER go to a movie in that car.. or anywhere else.. I couldnt argue : )
great timing! i was thinking of changing my e46's cream top half to black
Be prepared for a lot less reflected light and a dark interior.
@@machtschnell7452 and a better look
@@jamesstephenson2346 "Better" is subjective. I prefer more reflected light in a daily car because the interior feels more spacious. It also helps to break up the monotony of a slab of black and gunmetal grey found in a lot of cars.
Awesome! Thanks. I need to do the pillars on my e39, this makes it much easier.
Is not letting the glue dry a bit before putting the fabric on the reason why the glue bleeds through?
Steamer is also fantastic at removing window tint. Will save you from ruining defroster tracks
haven't done automotive interior but I've felted pool tables the real magic worker is having a rubber roller it will make sure there is no wrinkles and conform to any curves
So side question. I saw a Nathan video from a year ago where he referenced his Amazon store. I watch his videos on TV, so there are links. I did searches on Amazon and couldn’t find his store. How do I go about finding it?
I need a few points and tips on a 2007 530i and I'm doing the CCV system and I could use any help that I can get
is flocking so expensive in other countries? if i wanted to do all that stuff i would go with flock
Did you recover the moon roof sunshade? Would like to see the rest of the series as I'm about to tackle this project myself.
I recovered mine. Not the easiest task but not hard either. Hardest part is getting the sliders out. The only thing is the plastic piece for the handle is hard to cover around. I just took mine out.
Nathan has a whole sweatshop operation on the go now! Haha
You can use jb weld on the plastic weld/rivets
You think its possible to make a way for a screw to go into something like that? ANy tool?
Why am I having a peeling problem about a week after installation? I'm using the same contact cement. Now if I kept the part (door panels in this case) inside in a climate controlled environment, only minor peeling if any.
what type of brush-on adhesive to be use on the bend?
Tq bro!
Nathan, i just fixed my C pillar with your tips, Thank You! Now I'm tackling the B pillars. After i removed the Alcantera there is fabric that is still on the plastic. It's not the same quality but it hasn't delaminated at all. Do i reattach the Alcantera on top of this fabric like it was or do i need to take the fabric that is completely attached to the plastic off?
This is not the guy to be asking. He dont know what he's doing.
Why are you saying that headliner material will never work on the pillars? I'm here watching this thinking of doing this to my Cadillac project which from the factory has the A and B pillar trim covered with what appears to be identical to the headliner
Nissan 350Z owner here. This vid is a godsend. Thanks sir! where can i get the brush on adhesive?
The stuff he used? Lowes, home depot. But its (what he used) junk. You need dap weldwood landau top solvent based contact adhesive
You need to pull the edges well so that where there is a bend, air and wrinkles do not remain.
What is MAKITA tool? for Door cutting
what is that glue called?
Great video, what glue are you using when you are brushing it on? I made the mistake of wrapping some C pillars with the headliner spray glue and after about 6 months the material starting pulling away.
I am brushing on contact adhesive with a disposable brush, as i showed in the start of the video
What kind of glue are u using
Can you give us the exact name of the contact adhesive you used ?
Video doesnt show it
Its the wrong stuff frankly. He used dap weldwood, but not the good stuff. What you NEED (and i mean it, its literally the ONLY one that will hold up) dap weldwood landau top solvent based contact cement.
I'm trying to find that particular contact cement. Where can I purchase it. All I can find is a Weldwood with a red label. Are they the same?
I got this at lowes
What type of glue is that?
Hey Nathan, how many yards of fabric would you suggest to do an e46 headliner & all the pillars+ sunroof?
😂😂😂
Hey Nathan, how many cartons of eggs would you suggest could fit in the back of a 2012 Subaru WRX Sti?
Unnecessary to cut the slits on areas that aren't curved. As the the areas you cut slits in straight lines can come undone after being heated in summer weather. Also, I would use the commercial grade contact cement, blue label, spray grade. It holds up WAY better in hear or sunlight. Good video and I should make one too!
Subscribing to you as well. Waiting patiently for your video
Chris where is your video
Dear Mr Chris Sullivan, I was told there would be a video detailing your exploits with commercial grade contact cement and faux-alcantara, and yet, when I peruse your video collection, I find no such video. Please rectify this immediately if you believe this is in error. Yours, Boris.
How To clean the pillars If you take the old trim off?
@@cannaroe1213 I will be the first to admit, I’m not the best at video editing. I have some recorded. Just need to splice them together. Been trying my hand at TikTok short video format.
Hi , i have m5 e60 2010 and i have issues when i drive car its shaking between 1500-3000rpm do you know what it can be ?
Engine mounts probably, im not familiar with these cars
What type of preparation do you before the glue????
What i personally did was sanded down plastic parts with 800 grit and then used soapy water to clean them. Then i used 3M Super 77 glue spray. For metal i used acetone and then 3M Tape Primer 94.
what is the name of that glue
did you put it in the car?
Great vid, but real Alcantara does actually have some stretch. You have to use Alcantara Panel, which has no backing, instead of Alcantara Cover, which has the backing and no real stretchability.
Hey i am looking to buy a 2008 e70 x5 with the n52 what do you think is it reliable 130k miles
To be totally honest, NOOOOO
I tried painting mine with spray paint after pulling fabric and don’t like it, can I use this adhesive over the paint then stick fabric to it? Thanks Nathan!
prime first
Link to materal you used
Where did you get the synthetic alcantara?
It's just suede. Alcantara is the factory that makes "Alcantara suede". Any fabric store will carry it. In Australia we use Spotlight. Real Alcantara costs a fortune.
76 spray adhesive by 3m is better
The screws will release and rattling. Use small bitumen sqares over each screw to fix them forever (bitumen plates used to sounddeadening, ground zero, stp..etc).
Or.. hot glue is ok for this. Use with gluegun to surround and burn glue with lighter to center. Will be solid and easy removable next time in the future.
If your in Sydney I’ll love to pay you to do some work for me on my bmw. Ir that’s something you do. Let me know. Cheers
I watched about half of the video so far. I was thinking of leaving a snotty, arrogant comment. But i wont. I would rather leave a constructive critique of what ive seen so far.
First- i absolutely applaud you for tackling this, and for having a limited skillset in this realm, you've got the basics pretty sorted. But, there were a LOT of issues with this, and if you are putting this out in an attempt to teach, i feel you have a duty to be knowledgeable on the subject. Starting simply- your verbiage is an issue. Alcantara is a brand name, not a material name. This is a super common mistake among novice upholstery people, but its a harmful one. The reasons are many, but simply put- Alcantara is in a class of its own, with no close competitors. Its fade resistance, appearance, abrasion resistance, and feel are all best in class. Its a disservice to the product to label the cheap material you used as Alcantara. It is a simple synthetic suede material. Ive used it before, its ok, not a bad choice, but not alcantara. Again, not a big deal i guess, but you did put this out as a teaching video. Second issue- again relating to the material. You said you "didnt get actual Alcantara because it wasnt stretchy enough". Alcantara is sold in several forms. Backed (made for higher wear/stiffer situations, like seats) unbacked (for trim and headliners, etc) and a more weather resistant line that is good for marine use/outdoor use. They also offer many color choices, perforation choices, etc. The unbacked material would have been just as stretchy as what you used, however its much higher priced (around $130 a yard). Third issue, and the most serious- that contact adhesive you used is absolutely not the ideal product. If you are in california, it may be the best you can get (as the solvent based contact cements are banned there i believe) but if not, you NEED to be using DAP Weldwood landau top contact cement (solvent base) Its really the only adhesive that holds up over time in auto interiors. I do hope you take this in the spirit it is offered, and not as an attack as i dont mean it as such. My background, for what its worth, is that i have a bit over a decade of auto upholstery experience in a high volume shop focusing on both factory replacement and wildly custom interiors. As always, I encourage you to double check my info, and do it however you'd like.
I knew someone would chime in with some Alcantara education. I knew it was spendy but never knew why. I bet this will fade in the Las Vegas sun pretty quick. Thanks for the lesson in material detail and adhesive knowledge.
Any way I can get in contact with you? I wanna learn so much about the auto upholstery side of things and wanna get it I’ll even pay if I have to please and thank you I’m serious about this
Correct
SECOND!
Very interesting. I would just say polyester (Alcantara) does not have a very high wear index so avoid using it on touch surfaces.
Also, the 3M adhesive remover should be used where the formed surface has to be immaculate.
Alcantara, the actual brand is not 100% polyester. Whatever he used (cheap garbage) may be. People absolutely need to stop calling any synthetic suede Alcantara. Alcantara is a brand name, and is unrivaled in performance amoung its peers. It was NEVER intended to be used on high touch areas (steering wheels etc), however it DOES hold up fine, minus the fact it SHOWS dirt/oil/grease, which sucks to clean.
Now try it with a cloth like material 😂
Is suede no Alcantara
Paid to have my Mercedes pillars and headliner redone and it’s AWFUL! Mercedes pillars and headliner are firm, but this garbage is poofy and he tells me that’s the only think available now… 🙄 What do you recommend? It looks horrible and not putting it back in.
Guy would be more sympathetic / Video would be nicer if he would treat the woman more respectful.
Should have shown the finished product back installed in the car at the end. This feels unfinished...
This is a testament on how forgiving that material is. Your upholstery technique sucks big time.
real alcantara is junk anyways lol
It is really just polyester fabric.
This guy has no clue what he's doing or talking about. Clearly has little to no experience doing covers. And the vibrations from shutting the door hundreds of times and metal expansion and contraction will loosen those screw and your door is going to sound like a pocket full of loose change.
Butchered
Never use glows...use pure hand