Don't Install An Exterior Door Without This Kit!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ม.ค. 2019
- In this video Matt and Jordan are using the Dap Quick Kit system to install an Exterior Door. We will walk you through all the steps start to finish to install a door that's both water & air tight. Be sure to order the Dap Quick Kit when you order your doors from the Millwork supplier as it includes ALL the materials you'll need for a successful install. For more on their all-inclusive kit visit their website.
DAP Quick Kit www.dapquickkit.com
For more on Endura Door products I mentioned visit: www.enduraproducts.com
Some tools you might order ahead: (Affiliate Links FYI)
J Roller amzn.to/2CaKt9N
Albion Caulk Gun amzn.to/2SDtR1u
Milwaukee Snips amzn.to/2SDAeBM
Lenox Utility Knife amzn.to/2VKImCC
Dorken Delta Vent S House Wrap www.dorken.com/en/our-product...
Thanks for watching The Build Show!
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/ risingerbuild
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/ jordansmithbuilds
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If you've stumbled upon this page - we're sorry to inform you that the DAP QUICKKIT has been discontinued. However, various dealers and retailers may still have some in stock.
He should probably update this video.
Oh dang! First I’ve heard of that!
Yep. I've been searching everywhere and it doesn't show up at all. Would be great if you have another recommendation.
@@RJScott Lowes sell a product call Jamsil which is the same pan used by DAP that I plan on ordering for a new door I am in the process of putting in.
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Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds th-cam.com/users/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Thank you excellent tutorial. I wish they put this on my last house, so many hurricanes and rain that my floor boards all had to be replaced due to rotting from moisture leaking in around my back french doors. This kit would have saved me so much time and money.
Love your info Matt! I was very surprised to go to the two main big box home centers in Atlanta to buy one of these, only to find out they are online only and must be ordered! They stock hundreds of doors but don't stock even the cheaper $25 door Sill Pan Kits. The window and door department employees did not even know what they were - I showed them on their own websites!
thank you! Very useful. I followed this after my "professional" contractor failed on his 2 exterior doors install for my house. I had to redo them with this kit.
Where'd you find the kit, if you don't mind my asking. It's a ghost anywhere I've searched.
I appreciate your video Matt, In CA where the weather is not so drastic, this method is over kill.
Let me say, "Nice Layering".
The roof flashing works well as a "Header Flashing" too. But using a rubberized spray directly on the bare jamb before layering would be best protection.
Make sure you use 4 inch screws at least on all hinges and deadbolt catch
Builders need to stop useing 1/2 in screws and building front doors that can be kicked in by a infant
3 in security screw is plenty
Depending on the substrate, three inches is plenty. I agree with the half-inch nonsense. My personal favorite is when I go to yank a door frame (jamb for the grammar-N a z i s) and the entire frame, door, everything was held in place by the finishing staples through the brickwork and inside trim.
@@lethallyle8300 Yup, but I get where they were going with it. I wonder how many home improvement store doors still have the extra screws and foam pads stapled to the top of the door frame, sitting there installed and waiting, freshly packed for the next door install....
That's a neat kit! I'll remember it for my future installs. Thanks for the awesome videos!
Thanks for sharing knowledge Matt. I look forward to your videos daily. Hopefully some day you can (with exceptions of course)
Matt, I like the all inclusive info that you provide. It is very helpful to the DIY home owner.
Finally, this is a great convenience for me. Well thought through water/air seal process video Matt, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words Creed, DAP designed the kit with the installer in mind and to help take the guess work out of selecting the correct product to use on installations.
Somehow the decades-old practice of cutting an X in the house wrap and embedding the sill in caulk just isn't enough, so today on the Build Show, Matt and Jordan show us how to install a submarine hatch. 😆
The next step is likely to be in how we attach the door to the rough opening, switching over from 'nothing at all' or 'a wisp of fiberglass insulation' or 'adhesives' or 'spray foam', which get brittle and/or detach eventually, to rubber gaskets and shim screws. Air leakage condensation at the door weatherseal (which is a vendor thing) or the door rough opening (which is Risinger's domain) is now the weak spot.
www.conservationtechnology.com/building_shimscrews.html
www.conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html
That decades old practice has left millions of doors with rotten sills and rough openings.
@@ultimatedad79 Where are you working? The only thing I consistent find with rotten sills is dutch doors. I'm in VA halfway between the Dismal Swamp and the beach.
@@kevinstrident Chicago area, so rain, plus wind and freeze/thaw. 50% of the time I've pulled a door or window off and found decay at some level. Some full rot, others show signs of moisture. Which is why for an extra 50 bucks or less per opening, why not?
That made me laugh, but still this is a legit video and a good practice it seems.
Kit or not, this is the best and most detailed exterior door install tutorial I’ve seen. Thanks to Matt for posting. Subscribed 👍
This was awesome! More install videos please!
The issue with composite brick mould occurs when you attempt to install a storm door. The screws to hold the storm doors don’t hold in composite materials like they do in wood. Love the channel though! Wrap the wood in coil so no rot occurs then you have a strong screw holding the heavy 36 by 80 storm door.
John, what is coil? Thanks
Very nice how to video Matt and Jordan. I don't know if you have one already, but if so can you direct me to a video showing the steps in changing front door to a taller and or wider new door? Thanks for sharing your talent and video, Rodney
nice kit and convenient to get everything in there
That’s a wicked good product
Big fan of the show. Excellent video! I added the Dap Quick Kit and your Endura Door recommendations to our spec list for the house we are planning for our ranch property in Southern Oregon. Thank you 🙏
Thanks David! Appreciate your kind words means a lot from a fellow YT’r and IG guy. Keep up the great content my friend
@@buildshow - 🙏
@@bmay8818 - farther south than Eugene and Roseburg. Big fan of Essential Craftsman! We are currently finishing up a pole barn on the property with plans to start a guest cabin this summer. Always lots of work to do with not enough time!
@@buildshow so what about using this kit on replacing on old exterior door? there isn't a weather barrier there to do as in the instructions for a new install.
I like the plastic three piece pan here in the northern climate. Thermal transfer on aluminum pans has been a issue for me in the past.
I would love to see this video but the uncut version. Because I wanted to see how you cut the three piece pan, and I also want to see every single step to install this door, including the carpentry and the effort involved to make it plumb.
I am very slow to to accept new methods but these new plastic pans are a big money saver. They are well designed and have a thin profile. Proper glueing is essential. I believe they only come in 2 wall thicknesses. I use simple pan kits, with Grace peel and stick.
In the video you tape flashing was short on the sides and should have been notched. It ends at the same level as the RO not below. “Think like a raindrop” is what I learned.
DAP will soon be adding 5 -1/4" jamb depth kits to accommodate for continuous foam exterior insulation. the 5-1/4" kit will be available in single and double door kits.
A good door comes with a finish matched screw for each hinge but some still dont and either way i typically put my first screw in the jamb behind where the gasket goes in. Once it sealed and the gasket is in its invisible. Once it together and the door is dead on then i sink the hinge screws if it has them.
Yes! Jordan!
Great video Matt. Can't get the kit here in AUS but at least I have an idea of how to do a door frame install and seal it the right way.
There's a link to order the kit in the original post. Click "show more" to see Matt's commentary and links.
Excellent reference video
Man I love your show. Thank you for everything you do!
Good walkthrough! I know your in Europe, thanks for scheduling these haha
Fixing another builders mistake and this video will give me the detail i need thanks
Het Matt. Always enjoy your vids. I had a bitch of a time today installing new interior doors for bedrooms in a house where all the wall weren't plumb as it recently had foundation remediation. It'd be awesome to see what you would do.
Excellent!!
Wish this was around when I added an exterior door on my house!
I like that kit l, all in one that's great. I feel like im the only carpenter that uses a sill pan and waterproof doors. Every customer I talk to says the other guy that came out and gave me an estimate didnt tell me all that needed to be done to install the door. I just tell them to be leary of installer if there not doing this process to your exterior doors. I let them know in order for me to guarantee my work that's how I install exterior door. If they don't want the sill pan and waterproof method that need stop be done I make them sign a a document stating I'm not responsible for rotted door, rotted door opening,rotted floors, or any other water damage caused by door after install. There's a right way to do things and then there's cutting corners. I do it right, I stand behind my work, and have a name and reputation I tend to keep forever.
Flip those tie straps over. On the inside (facing the carton) there is a tab. You can pull the tab and pop the strap right off without needing to grab a knife!
Peel the tabs...Just like bundles of newspapers back in the day.
I've been watching your progression as a fine demonstrator and advocate of best practices in building science. I must admit, I was initially turned off by what I sensed as a bit of smugness, but you have evolved tremendously and your evident enthusiasm is catching. As for enthusiasm, so what if you find a product line that you like. Building science is not just theory. There are actual products out there, and some work well; others, not so much. Wouldn't it be a crazy omission for you to ignore that!
Hello brothers and awesome and amazing and good job
Product 👏🏻👏🏻 review 👏🏻👏🏻
I would LOVE to be his apprentice! I wonder if you could add some of this to a newly installed door that already has air coming from the bottom although my contractor used a “dollar bill” test. It does face west, and that side of the house takes a beating!
The plywood floor is also getting wet from somewhere. It’s a laundry room built inside the garage, and the original garage floor is always wet. I moved here a year ago, and don’t know why this happens.
How about coastal installations? Extra preacations. Especially a PIVOT Door.
Would be really nice to have a complete door install with shimming etc. but understand.
Great video, show it in a very simple way! Although, are you guys using this after this, or was this just for the video?
This video is great! Can you provide any advice for a bullnose (no brick moulding)? Would I want more flashing around the sides (before the lath and plaster)? How about the the drip edge? I can't see how that makes sense with a bullnose finish. Lastly, do you recommend against gluing the pan directly to the slab? I thin this would make sense with the thickness our our flooring we plan to do in this space.
Amazing how far things have come in the last 40 years. We used to consider homes a water deflection system. Now everything seems to be about waterproofing. Question, a door installed 125 years ago and still very functional vs this system. Is the additional labor and materials provide a benefit outside of weatherproofing?
Probably not.
Could it be to do with the wood itself? Aren't old-growth hardwoods, like you'd see in Ontario or the northeastern US, more resilient and resistance to water than OSB and fast-growing softwoods in use today? Could also be to do with the leakyness, where airflow - intentional or otherwise - actually dries damp areas in older homes.
Still, I think you'd know better than me!
Hope Matt takes the time to answer this 👌 love your channel, Jeff!
Are builders doing much the same way it was done 125 years ago? I just reno'd a 25 year old house and there was water damage at every window and door, I wish these additional materials and labour were used, would have saved me a bundle. But, from what I understand, builders don't build to save the next guy money? Someone should be so lucky these items would be used, or better yet, be minimum code. Now I'm on to a 74 year old house, I'll be interested to see what lays beneath.
Old-growth hardwoods are dramatically superior on mold resistance to new-growth softwoods. The grain structure is much tighter & denser, and doesn't absorb as much water. Softwood planks are similarly better than plywood. Plywood is similarly better than most grades of OSB (where soaking permanently separates epoxy layers).
We're dealing with materials that just aren't as good.
Insulation makes it dramatically harder for wood to dry. When you soak wood in water, the longer it stays wet the more mold you get. Add up the hours it's damp and at medium-warm temperatures and you basically have a wear function that applies over any sort of timespan.
125 years ago we built most of a house from old-growth lumber, we didn't or barely insulated houses (which leaves the wood open to drying air), and we burned *enormous* amounts of fuel every winter to keep them just barely tolerable temperature. We didn't have air conditioning, so energy went only in one direction: A very nearly perfect condition for drying. Even so, most homes of this area are gone, one way or another; What we see is bound to have some survivorship bias.
We're stressing our materials much more.
This is why you've got to be extraordinarily delicate with thermal renovations, which if done poorly, can take a house that's stood for 100 years and make it damp enough for widespread mold/rot problems in 10.
For most climates, you do not want to make any attempt to *waterproof* with eg polyethylene, oil-based paint, and vinyl close up against things, because this impairs drying and you'll never be 100% effective in installation or penetrations. You want to construct a wall that insulates and airseals, but which is still free to dry via direct moisture infiltration. Only use waterproof materials like metal flashing on difficult parts like corners and seams. The liquid water shedding solution has got to be *on point*, but you expect some windblown water to get in there in a storm, and you design so that it can get out.
How's this change things? A few ways. If you want the house to last as long as possible without repeated repairs, you absolutely need things like a vented rainscreen cladding or exterior foam, a vented roof insulated at the ceiling or a double roof insulated with exterior foam, a service cavity to permit proper airsealing inside, and a meticulous approach to airsealing that considers it as complex as any other trade.
I believe you would do well with a TV program on a cable network. Your thorough, explain directions well, yet not complicated. Most importantly you cover topics that people will actually use. It's nice to dream that I will be able to renovate some $3 million Barbi beach house in Malibu, but that's not realistic. That's what most of these home improvement shows have turned into, there not useful, nor practical and are more about decoration, than DIY. Just a thought, thanks for the programs, there very helpful.
Appreciate that my friend. Very kind. Don’t think I’ll ever be on TV however. I’m too niche. Internet is for me.
Great video very helpful and Matt you need to get Jordan a new shirt he got caulking on his.
Have you ever done a thermal test on an storm door with external door vs a naked external door?
that sill pan would be nice if my OSB didnt stick out past the edge of my concrete foundation. the framing was at the edge of my concrete slab
I have always wondered on the durability of using all these adhesive tapes, caulks and membranes in houses now. After 30 or 40 years, do they still perform? I think we need an overall standard thoroughly engineered out housing specification that everyone follows instead of always having the latest greatest thing to use. We need to somehow simply housing construction. It's getting extremely complex.
The products in the DAP Quick Kit meet industry specifications for products used for window and door installations. AAMA and ASTM standards and specifications are recognized and recommended by fenestration manufacturers. Meeting these specifications will ensure the best possible performance from the installation products and also the completed installation of the door or window.
@@dapspecline6353 Seems more like he's more about if todays tech is lasting the 30/40 years or do they peter out in protection 5 years after production.
I'm also kind of with him. How many years has the human race built stick framed buildings you'd think that after this amount of time you'd find some tried and TRUE ( not just because I feel it's true ) techniques that all should follow.
Why aren't houses built energy efficient from the get go. It should be the minimum, IMO, that all houses, not just high end custom built homes, should be energy efficient. Why are builders and designers not sizing HVAC to the correct size? Why aren't framers concerned about properly sealing the outside envelope. I think this is what he's trying to get at.
YES! This all the way. I think about this almost every day.
Can you make a video on how to install the fancy black and window doors getting a few soon The metal ones please please
Worried about moisture after all this layering, build a portico over your entry 😄
Great info Matt but that jamb needs priming to make it close to bullet proof.
Pretty sure the jambs come factory primed. Any exterior door I've installed is anyway.
For the novice complete exterior brick Harriman or stucco. The rough door opening measured and adjusted. Many production wood choppers doing framing. Have seen journeyman carpenter spend two weeks squaring up a tract house. All windows and doors inspected and measured. Before order. Custom doors measure 3x cut once. On remodel even more critical. Agree others only a product promo. A look at any journeyman finish carpenter has a trailer full of supplies and equipment. We never saw back side or real exterior door security for door frame or lockset.
I stopped installing doors with the trim attached...I always remove the brick mold then run peel and stick from the air barrier over to the face if the jam, then I re-apply trim(often 5/4×4 like the windows)...doors need to be made with flanges like windows...otherwise you will always have issues...never rely on caulking alone
Just installed an exterior door using this kit. Or, I should say, ATTEMPTING to use this kit. Much to my chagrin, all 3 tubes of the Dynaflex 800 sealant were DOA. Wind and rainstorm approaching, and I make an emergency run to buy 3 tubes of sealant to complete my install. Never again using Dap, nor Lowes (where I bought the kit) who essentially just shrugged and said "we have other caulk ". I left, went to Home Depot and bought OSI Quad Max instead.
My contractor didn't do any of this on my laundry room addition. There was a lot of things they didn't do. Does a backdoor from Home Depot that came with a frame still need a sill pan and "flashing" on top of the door frame too?
Instead of putting the bead of caulk on the back side of the brick mold it may be better to run it on the edge of the rough opening so you know the bead seals properly otherwise your bead could end up in the space between the R-O and door frame.
I would dry fit the jamb and get it dialed in first, scribe it and then gooo it.
Contractor neglected to put any head flashings on my parents' house built in 1999. Major problems now at almost every single one.
Why a bead of caulk on the inside corner where the brickmould meets the jamb? With a proper rough opening this bead won't even touch the framing.
I believe that is to seal the jamb/brickmold joint . . Seems redundant if the painter does his job correctly .
When installing an exterior door in 32 ( and lower) temperature weather, will the Dynaflex cure properly?
Your usually unbiased in your opinion and give us what works for you best.... but when you promote a product like this it takes away from the value of the service you offer. I’m a long term loyal follower and worry your on a profit pathway
Hey Matt, I just tried installing a garage man door with this kit, based on this recommended video. I ordered the kit from Lowe's, took 3 weeks. Opened the kit today, started and all 3 tubes of Dynaflex 800 were completely dried out. It's fine, I'll get some fresh stuff tomorrow. I know this video is two years old, but is this still a viable product sold by DAP? Obviously the kit I got was very old. I'm just wondering if the video is worth keeping up? Thanks so much.
Can you use the barriers sealants and tape on a window application or are there better products for windows?
If you're a DIY-er, you're probably doing a replacement rather than a brand new from scratch install. I'd like to see a how-to on that. We have a stucco house that needs the last owner's outside doggy door & surround replaced. Plus there's probably rot damage we can't see because the gutter leaked water that splashed right in that same area. (Now have new gutters that fixed that problem. Door replacement is current challenge & don't think this video's going to help too much.)
Good luck doing this on a older home
What about a more traditional casing if you are matching that on a project? When does that happen and who does that step?
Hey Matt what door brand are you using with the pvc bottoms? I love the DAP products, especially the white spray foam, especially when sealing white vinyl windows and doors.
I believe you are asking about the FrameSaver jambs by Endura. Been using them for over 15 years. Terrific products by Endura. Ask your Millwork suppliers about them
If this is for a brick wall it's wrong, the brick mold does not go against the wall. you have to install 1" x 4" for spacing then nail the brick mold to that . With a normal header height that caulk at the top wouldn't touch anything. Caulking means applying the material . Caulk is the material.
A little off topic...
What brand/model is your mobile tool chest? I've been looking for that drawer configuration, but haven't been able to find it. All the Husky models I looked at had two columns of identically sized drawers.
Oh, and thanks for this video! I need to replace my front door!
For a below grade basement exterior door in a stair well with a drain in front of it. What's the best way to install to make it waterproof even if the drain gets plugged or briefly gets backed up from very heavy rainfall?
That dude didn't blink for like 20 minutes at the end of the video!!!!
When I watch Matt he reminds me of Joel from MST3K, but more useful and entertaining.
Just like your windows video with Rockwool on the outside how do u do the doors
Cost to install Door just went up $250 again. But waterproof is king...
It's not a carpentry video it's a door sealing video.. Ummm Why not do a complete install, don't skip steps, it's all part of getting a good install, sealed, level, and structurally sound. This is simply an advertisement for DAP nothing more.
All that flashing is great. But what do you charge to install a new door?
Randy Bang Bang Builders Michigan Go BLUE.
How does this change when there is a small stem wall? For example the garage I am building has an 8” concrete stem wall before the framing begins.
This is great for houses built with wood stud and exterior walls. But block houses I’m at a lost at what to do to replace my entry door to my garage.
There’s no brick mold on the outside. It’s like they put the door in backwards
What does the caulk bead over the moisture barrier, under the sill pan, do? Seems it's a dam for any water that ever gets in there and should go to the front of the moisture barrier. I'd put a bead of sealant behind the moisture barrier.
Lol bravo for going with that and not editing it
Matt, How do i use this kit on existing house? And still insulate everything? Can i put the housewrap on the inside? I need to replace a door in my garage and gonna take al the drywall off so i can insulate everything and my door crap so i want to replace it. Can i use a door+frame from lowes or homedepot to save some money..
What if your floor is out of level?.. would you place the shims under the sill pan or on top ?
Why can you use 1/2 inch thick play wood to install doors ? Why it has to be shims ?
This kit looks nice. Where can I find it? I was on the link you posted and it's not available there yet.
Cool idea only problem is dap caulk is not good for exterior especially here in Illinois because it cracks after awhile. Any idea if OSI has a kit like this? Their product is top notch and the only one I use for all my exterior doors!
Does that peel and stick go over or under the house wrap on the sides? Great vids!!
I believe in a fully adhered system the peel and stick sticks to the jam, the sub straight ( the osb ) and the house wrap - at least that is how windows are flashed.
Hi Matt, Great shows!! How do you order Endura products? I've been to their website and didn't find a link to local distributors in NC. Any clue?
He said a mouthful when he said " This is not how to install a door but how to weather proof it "...
I propose a drinking game for this video where you must drink whenever Matt says, "Run a bead."
More fun if you chug every time he says Caulk. lol
Is this an exterior door install or a submarine hatch install?
:P
One long commercial for DAP - paid for by DAP lol
Do you prefer a plastic sill like that to a metal one?
Do you still need a sill pan if Installing over a concrete slab?
White caulk on white door!
Could you, for the how to, use black caulk?
Great video. I only wish I could say the same about the product. Sill pan glue, Dynaflex, and DRAFTSTOP foam were nearly all dried up. Glue thick, difficult to get out, and didn't hold. Dynaflex nearly impossible to squeeze out the end of the tube. Ever seen a caulk gun flex? Lastly, and I didn't even know this was possible, the window and door foam barely made it out the end of the tube before coming to a halt. Needless to say I spent a lot of money on what was ultimately a Jamsill Guard sill pan I could have bought separately for a fourth the cost. All of the sealants in this kit were ruined, old, or something and replaced by two subsequent trips to the home improvement store. Perhaps it was mishandled (too hot, too cold?) before it made it to my doorstep but the end result is the same. Save yourself and buy everything separately. That way if you get something "bad" you can at least recoup part of the cost.
SupercodePoet, you know you have to cut the end of the tube of caulk. You were squeezing an uncut tube. i oughta.....!!***.. Step into my office. "Why?" cause you f'ing fired!.....
@@MaximusMerideus Heh... Of course I cut it open! I've installed a half-dozen exterior doors and remodeled multiple kitchens and bathrooms. Quite familiar with how caulk works. The stuff was DRIED up.
@@twitmail I know you did, I was just joking around. That would be funny if someone didn't know to cut tube and kept squeezing, wondering why it didn't work.
Why would you not use the sealant tape under the door pan first I would think it would add to the water proofing process of the door .
Will this kit work on a french patio door from Pella or Anderson?
Will this work if we are just replacing the door..?
I've noticed that the negative comments on this video fall into two categories: 1) Boooo, this is a commercial and 2) Boooo, this is overkill.
As to the first, I think there is some credibility to the argument that the post seems like a commercial - perhaps even starting with the title. But for me, even if everything here is scripted from the manufacturer, I learned something and I'm quite capable of sifting through the pros and cons of the product to decide if and when to use it.
As to the second, the trades are conservative and slow to adopt new methods and materials. The current residential project I am working on was built in 1927 and the craftsmen who built the house then would largely recognize the materials and methods we use today - starting with the stick build and stucco. Add to that, the trades are full of old and graying men (of which, I am one) who can become less and less open to new ideas the older they (we) get. I have found that in certain areas of a home, many homeowners are actually eager to pay more for so-called overkill - such as with weather sealing doors and windows. It's simply a matter of cultivating such customers and marketing to them where to invest those so-called "overkill" dollars. I see it as they paying me for warranty work I never have to do instead of me losing money to do free warranty work. It's a total win/win and no-brainer for both sides.
Spot on. All the “just fold the house wrap over the sill and jamb” people are 100% pure hack.