HOW TO REMOVE and REPLACE a Front/Back Door (Easier Than it Looks!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey Gang! In today's video we show you how to remove an old front/back door and replace it with a newer one that will last longer and look much better! All with common tools.
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Coming from a fellow veteran carpenter, you did a great job of showing how nothing is "just". It's never "oh, 'just' install a new door" or window or 'just' replace a deck or lock set. Or 'just' repair a whole in drywall. Nothing is 'just'. And people who don't know this trade need to understand this point.
JUST is used by people who don't know or understand the process. They like to use the word JUST out of order and think everthing is easy.
Just sign the check when Im done :-)
Lol, great comment. Sh*it's never easy I say on every project.
I agree with everything you said, it's never straight forward 👍
My boss would send me out to do a door job or whatever,and he'd say,"all you gotta do babe is" and it was a nightmare to be sure!
As a handyman who has installed many doors I can say you did a great job detailing all the important steps for correctly installing a door. I always like to see how other people do it to see if I can pick up any new tricks. Great job
Thanks 👍
I always admire the attention to Detail, and the Quality ‘STUD PACK’ delivers on both their work, and the videos!
I guarantee that in my life, I will never, ever install a door (I have a door guy). Why did I watch this whole video? Because it really is captivating and interesting. You guys do a GREAT job of making things succinct and informative, without the stammering and time-wasting that so many other TH-camrs do. Brilliantly edited, too. Excellent job!!
Much appreciated Craig 👊
Oh I totally agree.
You have a door guy? How many doors do you have and how much trouble do you have with them?
I do alittle work for a guy who whenever he has a door to install at his house or on a job he just insta calls me because he can't figure out how to do it properly.
Youre totaly right
I’ve watched many many “how to install a door” videos. You are the first to ever explain why the reveal at the top corners can look weird or off and how to fix it by loosening one screw in the corner and tightening the other at the opposite corner until the reveals are the same.
My god. That was life changing. I mean it.
Thank you.
Well done! I’m a carpenter with 35 years of experience and counting. And I agree with everything you said. Nice tips how to fix the hinges that were set too deep from the factory. Keep up the good videos!
Great job!!!
I agree, but worry foam will twist the frame... easy peazy with the foam👍👍
I agree, was told to use insulation, never expanding foam@@robertapreston4200
This is what I do most of for a living. I give this video my approval. If the door is plumb and your top reveal is off the right side of that door needed to go up a heavy 16th of an inch. Also if you shim the center hinge heavy it will push the entire door to the latch side. 7 doors a week you learn a few tricks
Good comment!
I totally agree! The door was fine, nothing a few shims can’t handle
One thing I learned when I worked for a handyman company was to have a 6’ level for installing doors! Helps especially if there is any bowing in the frame
Probably the best video on an exterior door installation that I've seen. I'm always impressed by the level of detail and attention you give to each and every project. I"ve learned so much from watching your videos. Kudos.
Super appreciate that thx 👍👊
@@StudPack Why do you install door that's opening inside? Doesn't this make it hard to open in emergency? Also with those hinges this looks extremely weak solution against any forced entry, since there's only small lock latch holding door shut.
Nice job. Sometimes when the feed rate is turned up to high on a cnc it will cut funny shapes. Seen it a lot with worn cnc machines
@jarivuorinen3878 do you live in a cave? That is how all residential exterior doors are! He ran screws through the hinges into the framing. Also when he foam seals around the jamb it'll be solid
Could not have worded my thoughts any better! 👍😊
Bro, we need more guys like you as teachers in our public education system. Real skills, real money = no college debt.
And no knee joints at 50.
@@MK-hb3xc I hear you man! I retired at age 48, now 51, from a 30 year career as an electrician. These trade skills are highly important to our economy. Another is financial literacy.... ultimate goal is to join the double comma club and buy your freedom.
@@MK-hb3xc sitting down all day has it’s health drawbacks aswell. We all pick our poison.
@@MK-hb3xc Have you tried knee pads? :)
ABSOLUTELY
Sorry Stud Pack, I was cut off before I could finish. After installing the newly formed Sill tray, use the quality sealant around the edges to prevent air leaks, around the Sill tray. As a note on the knob side of door, I would suggest using wider shims around the latch area so your customers can add reinforcement latches that contain 8-12 3" harden screws to prevent door kick in's that could pull your frame out of plumb without wider shims placed on latch side. These are simple couple of suggestions to you, and I say this respect. I have been installing doors and windows for years without water penetration. Keep up your wonderful work, I enjoy your videos. Best regards to you, Danny Price
Hats off to Jordan for all those super close up follow-along camera shots he's been doing!
Luv em 👊
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for - a video where you keep the exterior trim in place. The rest is excellent too. I also like that you talked about how you had to get the hinge shims made and then came back the next day. Lastly, the reality of how many times you had to put the wooden shims and screw in and out was showing the reality of how long all of this takes. Excellent video!
This video popped up in my feed, and I watched it from the perspective of a residential/commercial door specialist, having installed many thousands of doors, reinstalled many thousands more. I also taught proper door installation to other carpenters. I know, too well, the deficiencies of door manufacturers and production framing crews. I have watched many u-tube carpenters install a door and face-palm. A correct swap, well done. You even called out the larger #9 screw ( I use stainless) on the security screw. I also use 3" # 7's for strike and latch plates. Criminals beware :) !
Excellent!
I like to replace the cheap door seals with the magnetic ones, for a better seal. I’ve made shims by cutting up, plastic antifreeze jugs.
I like how you left the external trim in place!
I start to get excited about doing a project like this at home so I watch a video like this one. Then I realize I should definitely hire a professional to do the job. Thanks for reminding me again
🤣🤣
This is why a hate remodeling give me new construction everytime rather do everything myself anyway that way if u run into a problem it was your fault teachs u to do things right the first time
I just finished replacing 5 interior doors and an exterior door at my house. It's not a terrible job difficulty wise but by the time you get everything perfect and sealed and trimmed it's shocking how much time it can take. You can do it!
I have to say, the Guy Fieri Diner's Drive In's and Dives vibes I got from this video had me giggling at first, but by the end of this video any doubt that I had about being able to DIY replacing my door is gone. The amount of detail put into this is incredible. Showing every step no matter how small on camera, explaining what you're using and WHY you are doing what you do, and then explaining every possible thing you might come across is soo useful for someone like me who is just starting out in DIY home renovations. You explained every single bit of this in such a clear and thorough way, the editing and camera work was very entertaining and of professional quality, and it was just a joy to watch. I'll definitely be back to watch more as I start more home projects, I've already seen so many videos on your channel I need to watch in the future!
Working at a box store, I often ask contractors questions on installing doors and windows. This video taught me more than 6 months of questioning "professionals." Great Work!
As a DYI'er I've done many interior doors but no exterior. The house I just bought needs all new exterior doors and I was a bit nervous because it's a brick house and the trim outside is a lot more extensive than the other houses I've owned. Showing how to remove the door from the inside without touching the outside trim was just the trick I needed to get me going on this project. I haven't turned my TV on in days since I've found your channel, been binging on your guys videos. Keep up the great work!
Thx Darryl and we're glad you found us 👍
How'd it go? I'm considering my first attempt too.
Watching this...then checking all my doors lol. Thank you guys, I really appreciate you and all your hard work, I've learned a lot! Just finished tiling my backsplash, I'm in the process of refinishing my kitchen cabinets, then building an island. I probably won't get to the front door till next year but is on my list and you gave me the confidence to do this and a few tips along the way.
So comfortable to watch, dont want it to end, want to see you thru the finish part, foam insulation, casing, floor transition, caulk, paint, lunch, etc
Very timely for me and my son. We are replacing a door in our remodel this weekend and I always fight to get them installed correctly. This will help a lot.
Your cat looks racist.
@@galvanizedgnome The photo is a big "Hit"!
I'm retired from my 30 plus years as a painting contractor but I used to make hinge plates from wood. I never thought to use PVC. It's nice to see someone who does a job right.
Evidently playing cards work too.
I've installed a couple doors before, and I haven't been 100% happy with the results -- probably because I'm a homeowner and not a pro. But I learned a lot with this video, and I'm going to try another one soon on my garage door. Thanks for the tips.
Great video. I like to carry a bunch of small washers and place them around the hinge screw holes to use as shims when needed. Using washers also gives you the ability to tilt the hinge if needed, by using on just the two outside holes, instead of all four holes. Sometimes even small washers are too thick for the adjustment I need. A few layers of masking tape in this case will get me to the perfect thickness.
To help not having to open and close the door so many times to test gap thickness, I will take a wood shim and slide it into the gap at the top and botom of the door where my gap is established. I push the shim in until it sits snug in the gap between the jamb and the door. I then take another scrap of shim and some CA glue (2p10 glue as you brand reference it) I glue the scrap to my gap shim lining up against the jamb creating a positive stop. I them use the gap shim up and down the jamb where needed sliding shims in-between the jamb and the framing until it presses snug against my gap shim. This creates the perfect gap with a lot less opening and closing of the door.
If one doesn't have CA glue handy, you can also just make a pencil line on the gap shim. Having the stop makes it easier though.
Thank you for the good tips!
Washers? Dope af!! And that there, is key!
I’ve been a carpenter/contractor for 42 years and have installed hundreds of doors. BUT....it never occurred to me to leave the extension jamb/brickmoulding in place as shown in your video. Smart. Old dogs can learn new tricks. Dave Heitman dba Dave The Carpenter in Omaha
Super appreciate that Dave 👍👊
I have done this several times on homes where I dont want to desturb the paint or trim on the interior.
It works well on door that were install square and plumb originally ... then I can use the trim to gauge my reveals and set the door. This way I can also spray the foam insulation from the outside since I temporarily remove the brick mold to add a jamb extension and rip the brickmold down a hair.
I this situation I probably would have just taken the old brickmold doen too.
I wouldn't adjust the top left or right... once you make sure the head is perfectly level then plumb the hinge side perfectly from the very top too the very bottom and then only adjust at the hinges.
You also don't have to remove the weather stripping... you can just fold it back where you are placing your screws.
For the shims between the hinges and the jambs I use the thin hard cardboard used in cereal boxes for example... but whatever works.
Yeah, it was a great tip, and one I wished I had used when I helped a friend replace an exterior door, and took the new door out of the jamb, and used the old one. Old jamb was encased in stucco, and I was NOT about to mess with that jamb and the Stucco. Needless to say, it really created a headache, but We finally got it in, and everything was plumb and it operated fine. Never again!
Instead of messing with shims behind your hinge which pushes out the hinge from the mortice. You can bend the hinge by putting a nail between the hinge halves and closing the door partially and gently. Go a little at a time until you get it just right. I've had them so bad I had to use a screwdriver as a spacer in order to get it to bend enough. You can get it perfect without making the hinge look like it's mounted funny. Keep up the great work!
Adjustable wrench works well as well. Pull the pin, shut the door and grab each pine sleeve on the hinge and bend towards jamb or towards door for desired effect
@@psilver063 That works too. On a large adjustment you just need to make sure you don't bend them out of alignment.
That seems like a reasonable method to try 👍
Just have to make sure to not go too far, cause there's no going back easily.
@@scomi usually I will lift the door into the position I want and then shim it where I want it. Once secure I’ll bend them to be in line
@@wingerrrrrrrrr It's not too bad going back if you go too far. You just have to pull the pin and use a crescent wrench to bend it back. It's all simpler than it sounds. Way easier than unscrewing the hinge and making shims the exact right thickness.
Great job, Paul and Jordan! I've hung many a door in my career, and that's definitely a good way to do it. Taking the time to make your reveals correct and true allows the door and the jamb to have clearance for seasonal movement, and proper operation! It's not just for looks, people! One thing you didn't touch on was making sure to add a "shim pack" (hey, is that your 2nd channel?) above and below the strike plates on the latch side of the door for reinforcement.
I have also noticed a huge degradation in the quality of doors lately, especially from "Steves" and "Masonite" . It seems during the shortage times, the quality control has been severely compromised! The router job on the strike plate mortise would drive me absolutely crazy!
Splitting the extension jamb like you did here saves a ton of time and effort when doing a door replacement! Very smart!
Who's Jason? Did you mean Jordan? 😁
Every prehung door I have ever purchased had been a POS no matter which manufacturer.
What do you mean "splitting the extension jamb? Where in video was that done. Please explain?
@Fallon Stone at about 4:15 in the video is where Paul was splitting the extension jamb from the door using a putty knife and a hammer to separate it. The extension jamb sits between the exterior door casing (Brick Mold in this instance) and the actual door jamb, and is used to make up the difference in the thickness of the wall to the door jamb. Most jambs are 4 9/16" thick, made for 2x4 wall construction. When your exterior has a thicker cladding, such as brick, you install a jamb extension to hide the gap or use a wider, but less available, door jamb. Here, Paul left the exterior casing and the extension jamb installed, removing only the door and the attached jamb, simplifying his installation, which is brilliant.
@@AlAmantea Thank u
Thank you. Your attention to detail is becoming a lost art. Hopefully the younger generation is watching content like yours. I’m a subscriber and although I’ve done a lot of the same jobs you work on, I have picked up some tips and tricks from each of your videos. One thing I am doing on exterior door installations is hardening the area where the dead bolt goes into the frame. I normally put a 3 foot strip of steel next to the 2x4 framing and secure it with long screws. It helps to make it secure from being kicked in. I also use structural screws on the hinges. That is most important on the lower ones. Keep the good content coming.
Good job guys right on. I am a retired old finish Carpenter and have done many doors like you did. One additional thing I would check would be the twist of the frame you have to make sure the door fits the jam when it closes otherwise it'll be twisted it looks like yours was probably okay.
For the majority of doors that I did in retro fit house the floor seem to be always the problem and out of level one way or another.
A lot of times the floor and subfloor were rotted and needed to be filled in redone.
Anyway guys, good job, good video.
Thanks
I'm a DYI guy and I purchased one of those oscillating dewalt tools at the beginning 2021 ( buzz tool you stated ) That thing is priceless to my tool arsenal , it has save me countless hours using that thing for all kinds different projects / repairs, Great door video and good tips.! Your earned a subscribe here, I'll be looking for other video's.
Next tool to add to your arsenal is an angle grinder, use those two tools so often.
As a retired professional turned handyman I really appreciate the level of detail you guys show. Look forward to each and every video.. keep up the great work. Cheers..
Thx John 👍👊
Being a Turn-key builder, Where I’m from, the carpenter IS the door manufacturer. If there’s anything wrong with the door it’s on me.
You need to mention that sealing under your threshold, the sealant MUST be unbroken to ensure no leaks.
Great video👍🏼
I just replaced 15 doors in my house with solid pine doors that I finished and painted. Fitment nightmares. I am not a professional carpenter by trade but I knew I couldn't be that incompetent with door installation. The manufacturing quality was horrible. And I went to a window and door stop to buy them to get a 'higher' quality! I had to rebuilt the frames and reposition the door stops on most of them. I finally got the manufacturer's rep out to look at them and he is replacing some on their dime. This project has taken most of the year and now I have to finish more doors to replace the ones that I already did. The whole project has been a nightmare thanks to horrible manufacturing. I feel your pain.
Great job!!! Love the fact you took the time and explained what you were doing at every step of the way and why. Not every door replacement would or will be same. Some are wood and others metal. I’ve just discovered you guys and if you haven’t done a door replacement on a metal frame with a side light that would be great! I need to replace mine. Again, great job. Worth the time to watch.👍
With productions builders like who built my house, the carpenter's screwed the hinge side tight against the framing then put in some nails on the other side & didn't care about the gaps between the door & the casing. All of the interior doors were installed the same way. I had to replace one door & there was not any shims at all. Then when carpenter I hired to replace the door was doing the same I stopped him & told to install the door correctly. He packed up his tools, said good luck & left. So my father & I ended up installing the door. I don't think most carpenter's know how to install a door correctly at least in Southeastern North Carolina.
There isn't anything "wrong" with installing hinge side directly to framing.... If the framing is plumb and square.
Great video instruction. Well done Question: What would you do if the threshold is not level? (8min 34sec)
You gotta level it. All else depends on that. We’ll try to cover that soon 👍
Thanks guys. One of the best retrofit door installs on TH-cam. No speciality tools. Clever problem solving throughout. True depiction of how an actual door install goes. If you put one in a CBS opening, do another video!
Excellent vid! Thanks, Pack! One thing I do: place the shims just above the long screw, so the screw supports the shim-pack, but does not split the shims. That way they can be adjusted, without damaging the cedar.
I have hung dozens of doors and it is somewhat of an art. On older houses, like this one, it can be a struggle. On new houses, professional door hangers would have hung this door in less than 30 minutes max. Guys that hang doors for a living are far quicker than I am. However, my end quality is far better than theirs is.
You did a great job in hanging this door. A LOT of pre-hung doors have numerous problems and it makes them hard to hang.
I made some plastic hinge shims (out of styrene) just like in the video for another purpose. I was replacing all the hinges, knobs, lock hardware, striker plates, and such in my lady friend's house to freshen it up. Most had multiple messes of sloppy paint on them from over the years and replacing seemed easiest. The house was built about 1950 and the new hinges I bought were thinner than the original ones. I needed to shim every hinge on both the door casing and the door.
As a former professional video editor, trainer, and digital designer, I want to compliment you guys on your excellent productions. They’re robust and, even though the topics and concepts are sometimes complex, your presentations clip along at a comfortable pace, “breathing” where necessary, and chock full of tips and explanations, especially for someone like me, a professional handyman, who already knows everything (just ask my dog!)
Echoing another comment, I, too, recommend reinforcing the strike & deadbolt areas behind the jamb, as these are critical to secure closure and get the most “abuse” by repetitive strikes, false openings (handset free, but deadbolt locked & vice versa), etc.
I love hiding the screws under the weatherstripping! I’m going to patent that technique so you (or anyone else) who does that owes me a nickel for each screw you sink (multiplied by the TDOC- Times the Door is Opened & Closed) from now in perpetuity. (Sorry. “The law is an ass.”). 😉
Thanks for another informative video. Keep up the great work!
As a former trainer of professional video editors and trainers, I can honestly say that you are incorrect. Just saying...
@@travisk5589 what is your critique ?
@@navarrodragon25 it's just that's dudes credentials aren't good enough to make such a comment
Wood shims split and compress over time, I always use composite shims and a great source is the left over pieces of a 2” horizontal faux wood blind that you remove when you shorten a blind. Any shop that makes Custom Blinds can and usually are happy to give you a bunch of them. I have never thrown them away and have found many uses for them. I once used them full length to shim drywall over a plaster wall, instead of demoing the plaster we just shimmed the wall plumb and went right over it. Of course every door and window had to have the jams custom cut but we have the technology and were remodeling the entire kitchen anyway.
I would like to add longer screws at the latch and deadbolt locations for better security. Great video.
Absolutely! I do property maintenance on rentals and have stopped installing "locking" door knobs. For the deadbolt face plate I put the 4" screws into the frame. For the door knob, I install a non-locking (no key) doorknob, with no special screws. That way, they need the key to lock the door when they leave and it is much more secure.
A locked doorknob can be unlocked with a credit card almost as fast as with the key.
I am a 25 yr door carpenter you did exactly what had to be done. God help you on the flooring. A trick I do is pull the plastic threshold cap and run a few screws inside to secure the threshold down. You can move doors all over by positioning shims cut out of ramboard (pasteboard) to tilt the hinges. Most of the millworks in my town are bad to awful and maybe that is how it is now but I warn everyone to avoid these Mastercraft doors period for many reasons.
25 years ago I worked as Shop Foreman at Pella of Georgia. When assembling the door to the frame we installed two pressed cardboard shims at each hinge and we had some soft vinyl 90 degree shims that we stapled on the interior edge with the leg between the door slab and the frame. Makes the install much simpler. Personally I like the pressed cardboard hinge shims better than plastic.
same here i use cardboard
@@markverde8666 - you beat me to it, I use cardboard too (but not the corrugated type).
Pella makes good windows and doors if you can afford them. I like their metal clad wood windows and doors. My experience with Pella has always been good. They take the time to grain match all the parts so you don't have some wack grain on one part of the door that just jumps out at you and screams paint grade. And you would never see a strike plate routed out like the one in this video so you definitely get what you pay for. One thing I liked about Pella is they where the first company to put nice heavy duty temporary metal handles on the frames of their heavy double hung French doors so you could move them into position without dropping them. Little things like that makes the install process so much easier. Yea I've always used compressed cardboard shims as well.
@@iamjackalope My favorite offering from Pella is the Slimshades ( mini blinds ) that go between the glass. It used to be that you had to choose between blinds or muntin bars. Now you can get some that allow for both at the same time. Fortunately for me, my finances came in line to build my house while I was working there, so I was able to get employee discount. I have 43 casement windows and 9 exterior doors. Been here for 35 years now and they all still work perfectly.
@@dallasarnold8615 wow! You must have a big house. I’m getting ready to build my house.. probably going to go with Plygem for affordability unfortunately.
Your door and drywall videos have helped me greatly. I appreciate you showing how you run into problems like everyone else. I'm a first time homeowner tackling a lot of projects
I went through this a few months ago.. What I found was the QC at the door manufacture was completely terrible, but the problem is, when you find the QC issues during install, you don't have a door on the house and have little choice but to make their poorly manufactured door work anyway.. We ran into hinges not fully seated in the routed area and the screws the manufacture put in were stripped out (over spun with drill). We also had the door frame not perfectly square, etc.. Was all day to change each door..
Where I live in Canada I always have to change the brick mold because the bottom 3rd is usually toast. You do very nice work 👍🇨🇦
I'm never going to financially recover from this channel
😂👊
Great tips on fixing reveal and how to shim behind hinges. One thing I was hoping to see was the security plate behind the deadbolt, addressing when a door & frame are not on the same Plane, showing how to put the plugs in over the screws in the trim (not as easy as it sounds) and adding the hardware back on and indicating a 2 3/8" backset VS 2 3/4" backset. Overall great job and if you're interested in doing a plant tour, reach out to your nearest ProVia Distributor to see what it would take to go...ABC Supply, Beacon Building Products, Lansing Building Products or Alside Supply etc...
That was a battle indeed. When my dad taught me to install doors, he would shim the hinge leaves in the front or back half, the front ( closer to the stop) will move the barrel towards the jamb, and the opposite in the back half, moving it away.
great explanation! I love when people run into common issues when doing an install because that's real life DIY. I'm a handyman myself and I enjoy seeing different ways to approach a job. Example, your job a a brick face wall whereas most videos have wood frame. Well here in Florida a lot of homes are block homes, so this could help people who are trying to install a door in a block/brick home.
Thank you for the awesome video! I'm officially a new subscriber!👍👍
In my career as carpenter and framer and trim out, I thought I'd seen every trick in the book on how to level out the door frame. But the shims behind the hinges was a first. And will definitely be sticking that tip in my hat. I've actually had to fix a door that a "HANDYMAN" changed out Yes He Put It UPSIDEDOWN! Go figure that one out 😂
I've had a contractor doing an apartment install two out of three windows upside down, so they don't slide unless pushed up. They don't return calls, having been paid before discovering they were general hacks 😭.
Now, William, William, William - don't you just *know* that the handyman was just getting the doorknob up out of toddler reach. It's a child safety trick! Yeah, that's the ticket! 🙂🙂🙂
Excellent video for anyone who installs doors or anyone who wants to understand the process. I have learned from the best carpenters and door installers, and this video is one of the best. Door manufacturers can make your job a lot harder. That is why it is so important to know how to deal with the problems that may come up, especially in an old house. Again great job.
Great to show this, Ill bet a lot of people will fight that door reveal without ever thinking to shim under the hinge. Great job. Charles
As a newer homeowner , i am learning a lot , i did some roofing, and framing when i was a younger fellow had some experience, but not comfortable replacing doors and things but watching your videos has given me the confidence to do small projects and build up from there ! Thanks
Glad that you focused in on all the shortcomings of the prehung door. We have seen a steep decline in quality control among almost every company we order prehung doors (and also windows in general) from. It's such a sad state - paying premium price for absolutely horribly put together material. At this rate, ten more years and we will be ordering slabs and making our own frames.
Lately everybody is into "reclaimed" doors and windows so I find myself building my own frames and hanging them a lot. But you are right. Just more communist crap from the great country of China and their slave labor force.
100% agree with you on the quality the only difference is we have already started buying slabs and make our own frames because of it.
Bigtime decline. Lots of adjusting.
More and more of these prehung doors are showing up with major troubles.
Are they being Made-in-China now or something?
I was starting to think it was just me. Glad to know I’m not just losing it.
Subscribed after watching you change out an entry door, you are a 5 star cobtractor, keep up the great work. And giving honest contracrors a good name. Thanks for being an honest guy.
Another great video from someone who's done a bunch of them. Knows his stuff, and it shows. Thank you!!
I just replaced a rear entry door today for my older brother. Got home and cleaned up, then this video is in my suggested list, watched to the end and liked. Great job, good idea on those hinge shims, glad I sourced the door from a local reliable plant, where I can look at the door before I get it loaded for the job, but if I ever come across this I'll know what to do.
That look you gave your son when saying “we may have another project” when pulling up that flooring is the same look I’ve seen on my own Dads face growing up. Every time you rip into something, you find something else to fix 😂
Aint it the truth?! 😯
Best door video yet. A door like a toilet or faucet has to work reliably every time or we are sorrily disappointed. My brother in law loves to use drywall screws for everything but he forgets that over time they corrode, are very thin and have very little shear value. Thanks again.
Even if you never intend to do this type of work it is helpful to see the process and what it should look like as it’s being done so that if you hire the work to be done you’ll know if it’s not being done right. This video like your others, also show that contractors have to happily deal with many unexpected real world things on site. As a contractor myself I appreciate your many tutorials. I had not thought of the adjusting screws on the top to lean it one way or the other. Previously I had a fight with shims. Love a simple solution. Brilliant!
I tend to run caulk first when assembling casings, than wipe clean for a much sharper joint lines. Baseboard that way too.
Convinced me not to try my own door replacement, but gave me excellent info to recognize job quality. Thanks.
I actually did something very similar to a double glazed window that actually had been fitted poorly and had to close the gaps with shims before using expanding foam and plastic trimming. Nice video guys, very informative.
Good carpenters that pay attention to detail and provide this quality of work are so hard to come by these days. Very nice work.
Boy - I'm not sure if I am happy for replacing my door without watching this video or if I wished I had seen it beforehand! Props to you guys for such attention to detail - I just stuck it in there and didn't really pay attention to the reveal depth on each side. I figured as long as it is plumb, the manufacturer would have everything else set right. You guys are amazing! Can't believe you took the time to shim even the hinges. Great job!
You always shim the hinges.
@@jeffreylonigro1382 think he meant the shims between the hinge and the door frame, at 12:45
Appreciate the step-by-step and all the details. As a DIYer I’ve done a few exterior doors including patio French doors. Sometimes I got the wrong door and need to modify swing the other way or put in a 36” door in a 32” opening. That were fun for 2 or more days each! Little guy working alone with heavy doors needed JawHorse to position it and inflatable air wedge on the bottom for pin alignment. Keyless entry and Ring Wi-Fi video doorbell would be nice.
The exterior "casing" is called brick mould. More great content here guys, keep it coming!
Actually that door had brick mould and a jamb extension. The correct way would be to get a door with a 5 1/4” jamb to eliminate that extra piece and scribe the brick mould to the exterior brick so the reveal is even matching up to the door. As it sits now anyone wanting to mount a screen door isn’t going to be able to install it plumb. There also was zero mention of making sure the jamb meets the slab on the strike side.
I appreciated your video. One thing I have done when the door is closer to hinge side but the hinges are set flush is just put something in the hinge and push it to close the door to bend the hinge open a little wider. It has to be done very carefully but you can achieve the same thing without having the hinge sit proud of the trim.
I did a replacement just like this but have never tried it without removing the exterior trim. I'm definitely going to try it next round!
Great video as always, but every time you showed a close up of the prehung door, I realized you should purchase your prehungs from another supplier. you pointed out some issues but I also noticed the routing for the hinges on the door itself was from front to back, thats pretty bad. But like always, you guys make the best of it.
They’re all like now it seems 😡. As far as the hinge mortises they do it that way so now one door works for a left or right hand. They only have to make one door... no more bevel either on the strike side 😫
For too many years I thought the problem with any new door/jamb set was due to something I was doing wrong. I only had to finally open up a pack of those store bought hinge spacers to finally realize some doors shops just don't watch their workers. Especially those bolt throw mortise plates are a sure give-away on who ain't watchin' the production floor. I only order doors from one local manufacturer now and never anything from Depot or Loews. The few bucks difference isn't worth the aggravation.
Enjoyed the video...you guys got a bottomless bag of tricks!
I spent a lifetime as a specifications sales mgr. Sold a lot of windows and doors. However, I am not a carpenter. This is a great video where I learned a lot. How about a vid on repairing rotted frames at the threshold without removing the door.
I’m a 28 year experienced carpenter
Good job guys I like that you pay attention to the door to jamb reveal. I subscribed to your channel
Can you cover in another video how you handled that interior flooring leading up to the threshold? Did you just rip down some parquet flooring and install it close to the wall?
That's one of the steps everybody seems to skip on these interior door install videos.
I'm so glad you guys are having such success growing this channel, your videos are great!
I'm guessing a floor replacement video is coming up. Looks like there was tile underneath the parquet, hopefully not vinyl asbestos tile.
Great job, when removing/installing the door/frame, sometimes there is a security wire sensor with a magnet mounted in the top of the door to deal with & mount in the new door/frame.
Also, be sure to use the 'Low Expansion - Door and Window' foam, otherwise it can bow your frame in and is a major pain to fix.
Good to know, thanks!
Also stuff paper towel in the lockside holes for a few minutes until the foam begins to set up otherwise you'll get a sticky dead bolt or have to cut the foam out later... made that mistake.
Your videos are great ! Just wanted to add while prying against casing or prying off trim from a finished wall or anything I want to protect I will use a 4" putty knife or larger between the finished surface or saved surface while prying. Saves hammer marks or prying marks.
You guys are awesome. I have to be careful not to let my wife catch me watching your channel or I will actually have to do all of these projects.
This was the best instructional video I have ever seen. My door is exactly like that one and I have avoided changing it because of the trim. Now that I know I can do it without removing the trim I am going to try. Unfortunately I can’t afford to pay anyone to do the job so thank you so much and God Bless!!!
You gentlemen produce the best content of this type on the internet.
Thank you!
I keep a deck of playing cards in my (box o tricks) for shimming door hinges for that very reason. They cut easily and stack with thinner or full size when needed just like a tapered shim, and then using longer screws it all works out. Good video guys!
I always used cereal box cardboard... but I might start playing solitaire 'til dawn with a deck of 51 after your comment.🤪
Big box store door, likely. I appreciate all the details you provided. I like using 3" GRK trim head screws under the weather strip. I flip it up out of the way and run them through a set of shims. At the latch, higher end doors provide a heavy plate to set under the strike plates and provide #10x3" screws. It adds a little extra security against doors getting kicked in easily.
Thanks for the posting. I enjoyed it thoroughly, partly because someone else was dealing with the challenges that ALWAYS come w remodeling projects. Good on you. Blessings to you and yours and a Merry Christmas 🎅🎄
That is what I call a professional working person,CHECKING ALL THE POINTS WHEN IS DOING HIS JOB 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Great job Paul & Jordan! I always ended up replacing the brick mounding on exterior doors as I’ve always found some rot. But this was a great video for the times when the exterior casing and brick moulins are still good.
Enjoyed your video about door installation. A lot of people don’t take time to properly install doors.
I concur with your recommendation of a chisel blade putty knife for door casing removal. I keep a spare in my tool tote just in case I momentarily misplace one.
I also recommend using a 3" wide putty knife just like it for reverse engineering baseboards or crown molding.
Keep up the good work.
I use a 7 in one or 5 in one, but same idea, good for almost everything!
My backdoor was very poorly installed, and has extremely uneven reveals on all sides, as much as quarter+ of an inch and as little as one sixteenth. I have had to add foam insulation to stop the inside air from leaking out. One side of the bottom of the door sticks and is difficult to open in the Summer while in the winter it closes ok.
I need to properly install a new door and your video is just what I needed. Very glad I watched it and I always learn something from your videos. Keep up the good work.
The closeness of the door to the jamb being so tight usually causes hinge binding which keeps the door from closing properly. A solution is shimming the hinge on the jamb side as you did.
I loved this video so much. It was so comforting knowing that others have as much distain for door manufacturers as I do.
Men, I love the video. I've installed a number of doors and completely feel your pain. However, instead of shimming the jam side hinge, I recommend trying to bend slightly the jam side hinge barrels towards the lock side. It works like a champ. It takes only minutes and requires no shims behind the hinges.
Yep, bend the hinges. Great for adjusting existing doors too!
How? Make a short video.
@@Lvatopesado there are videos on TH-cam, search. That's where I learned it.
@@btimbyindy seems like forcibly bending it would risk introducing play in the hinge.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr It works great. You bend with a wrench, so you don't put pressure onto the screws mounting the hinge, you don't introduce any play. Hinges bend easily, so it does not take much force to begin wtih.
Nice craftsmanship! I found your video very informative and honest. My jobs never go without some sort of a problem. You showed real life issues that you encounter on the job!
Stud Pack, you guys rock! Always informative, with excellent presentation.
Very informative. My new door is so frustrating, it's not plumped properly. God bless you more. Great job.
In future videos, don't ring the doorbell. Some of us are watching with our dogs. haha!
Love the to the point, no BS, military precision of the instruction.
Gonna call you Sgt. Stud Pack.
Do more vids!
I really appreciate your skill, knowledge and willingness to do a good job. Wish more were like you.
THANK YOU, you motivated me to fixed my REVEALESS external door after 7 years of neglect.
Made the shims out of OLD plastic (flexible) cutting boards. Only downside with using the flexible cutting boards were they were too thin and I had to cut and stack too many shims together.
Would recommend THICKER plastic materials to get larger gaps closed with having to cut a lot of shims.
Paul, great tips on door installation! I’ve been procrastinating replacing my front door for some time. You’ve given me the confidence I need to tackle the job. Your video revealed you had to deal with fixing some door manufacturer problems. Any tips on a good brand of door to avoid such issues? I also have a home alarm to deal with on the door. Any tips on how to deal with alarm contacts? It has a hidden magnetic contact on the bottom jamb area. I’d like to make the installation easy as possible.
installing a door really well requires experience , there are things that can't be taught in a video , you just have to "know" what to do .... it is NOT as easy as it might look on TV .....
Thank you for this, it is obvious that you love to teach your trade. May the Father bless you and your company.