You got me at “sill pan”. I’ve been building homes for almost 30 years, all over our country. I’ve had my hands on over 500 homes. I’m currently living in Bend Oregon, and I’ve never seen worse building techniques and practices in my life. Most of the homes in this area are joke when considering the most basic of industry standards. I’ve mentioned putting in sill pans on several occasions. If they’re even aware of what one is, it’s rare. And the ones who do know what they are, consider them unnecessary. Even after explaining how important that they are, or anything other building methods or techniques, it doesn’t seem to matter. Houses are more expensive then ever. And built with less craftsmanship nowadays too. Great video!!! Well done
@@Thoughtfulbuildsllc now your talking...... I’m still waiting, for the nail guns to have a beeper installed, for when they run out of nails. How many times do you get a piece of wood, right in the perfect spot, go to nail it......... nothing.
Finally I found someone other than me that does it RIGHT!! Though I only do projects here & there, I demand my level of robust quality for the customer & yes SS metal but also the seal tape! (I wasn't aware of zip seal nor "sill saver' composite door frames). Also to mention ~ wood planks to flush mount door jambs, composite shims but no mention about security screwing the frame. Shim each hinge using 3" screws, then shim/screw 2 points between hinges. On the latch side, shim 7 points, top/btm/mid (btwn bolt & latch) then also above & below bolt & latch. All with 2.5"-3.5" screws. If ya gonna go extra ~ go extra!!
Little tip on bending the corners of a head flashing, you can avoid cutting the top lip. Simply remove only the 1/4" of the bottom lip, hold your seamer about 1/8"-1/4" away from the corner, and bend up. It creates a fold at the corner which you can pinch together with the seamer; and you have a continuous corner that doesn't need any sealant.
This was the most amazing door installation I have ever seen! Matt you set the bar super high. This shed has the best door install of any shed in the world. I felt like I was watching a Disney version of a door install. I have installed thousands of exterior doors and no builder ever spec this level of install...but it was fantastic. The Rolls Royce of installs. If you are building a home and want to blow your builder's mind on installing a door...have them watch this video.
Stellar install. I’m going to look into the sheet stainless for pans in place of the copper I’ve been using. Only flaw in the system I saw was with the caulk going perpendicular and allowing water out. You still need a bead going the other way at the back of the pan where it lips up for air sealing. I know towards the end of the video you say you’re going to caulk that seam but that’s going to be messy and you’re not going to be able to get the caulk in there as well if the lip is tight to the sill as it should be.
Some say that door is more Zip Tape than wood. But being seriousness, I really enjoyed this video -- thank you! Great to see the step-by-step with so many details plus the tips on sourcing materials such as the sill pan.
Dude Ive been searching for a door install as informal as this for a week now and finally TH-cam delivers. Whats up with youtube search lately. Excellent video. Wish I had found this before I installed my door.
I have to say, I'm hoping to get a sales rep position at my work at a building supply store. Most of what I've learned (that no one has offered to teach me) is from watching your videos. Thank you Matt for your very clear instruction on how to do the various jobs when building, as well as the tips for remodel.
I enjoy your content and have learned a great deal from the videos. I have noticed that you frequently say “I did” or “I made” something in the video, however it is apparent that someone else did it, like the sill pan in this video. I would suggest that you give credit to the person that did in fact create what you reference, or at least say “we did” or “we made” so the viewer knows the work is a group or team effort. Keep up the good work!
Great step-by-step. Lots of good tips. Not the usual shilling for crappie sponsored trinkets. Just like Matt used to do, and what made me subscribe way back when.
Yeah, pretty much true. But you watch his videos for best practices m, which are almost always very expensive. With that said, it’s always good to know the best practices & highest quality materials… then decide where practicality & budget must come to bear.
Can anyone explain what you would do differently, if at all, in a cold climate. My concern is the thermal bridge that the stainless would cause. Would it condense water vapor on the warm side? FYI, I'm in eastern Canada.
Stainless steel isn't a very good conductor of heat. I probably wouldn't use a different material. This is why it's best to install exterior insulation using stainless steel screws instead of galvanized screws. It makes a 10-15% difference in insulation thermal efficiency.
Most manufacturers use a security hinge with tabs on the plate that lock when the door is closed. This keeps the door in place even if the hinge pins are removed.
The hinges have protrusions that mesh together when closed. As long as the door is fit tightly enough in the frame, you can't pull the door hinges out when closed.
There is no point of applying this to the head of the rough opening. First the waterproof layer is the side you see. Water follows gravity and flows toward the floor. If water got passed perimeter caulk and head flashing it won't reverse the flow of gravity and flow up. Second if water were to get behind the siding and head flashing and get behind the tape it will divert water to the inside. I've seen this failure before. The adhesive side is not a waterproofing layer. It will fill like a bag with water delaminate and dump a ton of water inside. Everything else is spot on. Remember water is gonna flow downward if your properly flashed head flashing fails that peel in stick at the head of the rough opening will be a liability.
Maleckis like Matt... you're not gonna get any water ontop of this door fre other than 1/4 of a teaspoon if there was a monsoon and a bead of caulk would have sufficed... 😆😉
Have the metal sills been retired in favor of a back dam? Did my first window reinstall and will do the same to a patio door a la Christine Williamson’s video. Good deets here though. Good tip on floating frame tech.
How would you prep for a french door but on a concrete pad? Flash butyl tape the whole opening or just the lower 6"? and was planning on wrapping the perimeter after installation before trim
Awww you guys didn't video part of it...did you use foam insulation or something? It went from green zip seal to having siding where you installed the head flashing...
Hu, here all entrence doors swing out (with some _very_ rare exceptions), both due to easier egress in case of fire, but als cause it is usally easier to seal. It is also seen like in-swing doors steal space from the interior.
@S M "here" is Sweden. I know it is code with swing out in flats. Swing-in doors is basically only a thing if there is an obstruction in front of the door; like a basement entrence with stairs leading down to the door. Suspect the fact that a swing in door is harder to seal well is a major thing.
Likely due to using dimensional lumber for your headers, which isn't covered in this video. If you start with LVL or PSL headers you won't have that problem.
I’m confused. You show the door flush and set with the sheathing. Shouldn’t the door be flush with the exterior siding? Then brickmold or your choice of trim goes over that and is nailed to the door frame and through the siding and framing. How did this door that was once flush with the sheathing magically appear trimmed out with no explanation? That would at the very least require jamb extensions to bring the door flush with the siding. Like I said, I’m confused.
Guys, I've done the research. Zip tape is made by Huber Engineered Materials, a subsidiary of J.M. Huber, a private company. I hate to tell you, but you can NOT buy stock in Zip Tape. 😂
Why would you want to have the 1/4 inch gaps on the door pan instead of it being flush with the jam? Wouldn’t you want to allow any water that were to get to the jam to be able to run down the jam and roll off the pan?
Hey Matt. Been following you for several years. Have a question I cannot find a valid answer to. Is Great Stuff Crack & Gap foam Pro a true closed cell foam? Their faq and back of the can just says "water-resistant". Is that just for legal purposes, or is it just glorified open-cell foam? Before I foam my new windows I would like to know. Thanks for the great videos & keep up the good info!
Great Stuff expanding foam in general should be closed cell foam. As well as other moisture curing spray foams. You should use Great Stuff's "Window & Door" foam as it is a low-pressure expanding foam. The cracks & gap formula may bend the frame of the door or window causing issues with that installation for the rest of it's life. Another tip is to only fill the gap about 50% and allow it to expand some to prevent overfilling, then add more if needed. (There has been some speculation if there truly is a difference between all the different versions of the great stuff foam, i.e. fireblock, pestblock, window&door, and gaps&cracks, or if they use all the same formula.)
please try and hold the camera more steady. with the weird focal point of phone cameras.. the excessive shaking really causes motion sickness. But thank you for this video
I want to know why some jamb weatherstripping is the spongy type and there is also the magnetic type. Any reason Most doors I see have the spongy type?
Should I do the same method for sealing my attic top plates. Low expansion foam AND big stretch caulk over top? All I've seen are videos only with great stuff foam for sealing attics.
You can. Write down the requirements you want (metal sill pan 24 guage, tape flashing, composite jambs, spray foam, big stretch caulk, etc) and ask them to quote you on this method of installation.
@@hubbstyle That's extremely important from a spec's and pricing standpoint. I would suggest that you also have a conversation with them, preface with you want quality and are willing to pay for quality (so they don't start with the idea you are trying to take advantage of them), and would they be willing to review this video, and would they be willing to have you present during the first installation (which will take much longer) to help iron out any questions on process. If the answer is "no", um ... that's bad. Also consider how you might inspect these post-installation, and if there are important parts you can't see post-installation, maybe the installation should be broken up in stages. Inspections are a very important part of quality control. Any place where water needs to be excluded from the structure is a critical part of the build and should be inspected IMO.
@@mathewskaggs3955 maybe it’s old enough where we can get a viewing of an old install getting siding removed or something to show how the tape holds up over the years
@@daveklein2826 didn’t you just tell me what to do or how to spend my money by suggesting I send him a camera? Which I know he already has 😂 move along
That shed is so large next to that beautiful house. How many expensive windows are now obstructed? My municipality has size restrictions that would have not permitted it. Plus my wife would have put the stop on it...
It’s a nice functional upgrade to the property in my opinion. Of the many considerations in a situation like this, I would choose storage over a view of my neighbors’ fence as well
All of that attention to detail and all someone has to do is pop the bolt out of the hinges to get inside and steal everything. Please tell me I didn’t see what I saw.
I'd love to see more Build Show videos in this step-by-step "how-to" format. I really learned a lot!
AGREED!
You got me at “sill pan”.
I’ve been building homes for almost 30 years, all over our country. I’ve had my hands on over 500 homes.
I’m currently living in Bend Oregon, and I’ve never seen worse building techniques and practices in my life. Most of the homes in this area are joke when considering the most basic of industry standards.
I’ve mentioned putting in sill pans on several occasions. If they’re even aware of what one is, it’s rare. And the ones who do know what they are, consider them unnecessary.
Even after explaining how important that they are, or anything other building methods or techniques, it doesn’t seem to matter.
Houses are more expensive then ever. And built with less craftsmanship nowadays too.
Great video!!! Well done
You’d think local Millwork companies would have sill pans in stock!
@@Thoughtfulbuildsllc now your talking...... I’m still waiting, for the nail guns to have a beeper installed, for when they run out of nails.
How many times do you get a piece of wood, right in the perfect spot, go to nail it......... nothing.
Finally I found someone other than me that does it RIGHT!! Though I only do projects here & there, I demand my level of robust quality for the customer & yes SS metal but also the seal tape! (I wasn't aware of zip seal nor "sill saver' composite door frames). Also to mention ~ wood planks to flush mount door jambs, composite shims but no mention about security screwing the frame. Shim each hinge using 3" screws, then shim/screw 2 points between hinges. On the latch side, shim 7 points, top/btm/mid (btwn bolt & latch) then also above & below bolt & latch. All with 2.5"-3.5" screws. If ya gonna go extra ~ go extra!!
Do you need to put sealant on the door/window nailing fins? Or can it just be tacked and foamed
Little tip on bending the corners of a head flashing, you can avoid cutting the top lip. Simply remove only the 1/4" of the bottom lip, hold your seamer about 1/8"-1/4" away from the corner, and bend up. It creates a fold at the corner which you can pinch together with the seamer; and you have a continuous corner that doesn't need any sealant.
This was the most amazing door installation I have ever seen! Matt you set the bar super high. This shed has the best door install of any shed in the world. I felt like I was watching a Disney version of a door install. I have installed thousands of exterior doors and no builder ever spec this level of install...but it was fantastic. The Rolls Royce of installs. If you are building a home and want to blow your builder's mind on installing a door...have them watch this video.
Stellar install. I’m going to look into the sheet stainless for pans in place of the copper I’ve been using. Only flaw in the system I saw was with the caulk going perpendicular and allowing water out. You still need a bead going the other way at the back of the pan where it lips up for air sealing. I know towards the end of the video you say you’re going to caulk that seam but that’s going to be messy and you’re not going to be able to get the caulk in there as well if the lip is tight to the sill as it should be.
25 mins video just for a door installation ?! Love it ! Textbook example !
Some say that door is more Zip Tape than wood. But being seriousness, I really enjoyed this video -- thank you! Great to see the step-by-step with so many details plus the tips on sourcing materials such as the sill pan.
How much zip tape should we use? Matt "ALL the zip tape"
Dude Ive been searching for a door install as informal as this for a week now and finally TH-cam delivers. Whats up with youtube search lately. Excellent video. Wish I had found this before I installed my door.
I have to say, I'm hoping to get a sales rep position at my work at a building supply store. Most of what I've learned (that no one has offered to teach me) is from watching your videos.
Thank you Matt for your very clear instruction on how to do the various jobs when building, as well as the tips for remodel.
Have learned so much from you. Building my own house in east Texas. Please keep sharing the knowledge!
I enjoy your content and have learned a great deal from the videos.
I have noticed that you frequently say “I did” or “I made” something in the video, however it is apparent that someone else did it, like the sill pan in this video. I would suggest that you give credit to the person that did in fact create what you reference, or at least say “we did” or “we made” so the viewer knows the work is a group or team effort.
Keep up the good work!
What he's trying to get at is that he spec'ed it that way.
The attention to detail is amazing…
Great step-by-step. Lots of good tips. Not the usual shilling for crappie sponsored trinkets. Just like Matt used to do, and what made me subscribe way back when.
Love the thought put into this, true to motto, building science - fine craftsmanship
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge Matt, highly appreciated. Amazing trades person you are.
Great job - Will be hanging two exterior doors in my stucco house today! Thanks
Love the content. R&R buildings makes it all look like child's play to the extent I don't know what he did.
Who doesn't love the way Malakai preps his opening?
When Matt says “ I prefer to use stainless” he means I prefer to spend as much money as possibly.
Yeah, pretty much true. But you watch his videos for best practices m, which are almost always very expensive.
With that said, it’s always good to know the best practices & highest quality materials… then decide where practicality & budget must come to bear.
great demo/how to video, wish you would do more like this. Thank you
Matt spent more on Zip tape for this shed than I spent on buying my entire house...
If I had to guess, Zip is a sponsor
@@dmichaudand crescent
Yeah that zip tape is overkill on the lower 4 ft
Great video. Finally found one that covered everything g.
Great video. Love the attention to detail
Oh no Matt, this episode feels like watching Bob Villa. 🤣
Finally, a normal opening. My house is built to Matt's shed standards. lol
Can anyone explain what you would do differently, if at all, in a cold climate. My concern is the thermal bridge that the stainless would cause. Would it condense water vapor on the warm side? FYI, I'm in eastern Canada.
Stainless steel isn't a very good conductor of heat. I probably wouldn't use a different material. This is why it's best to install exterior insulation using stainless steel screws instead of galvanized screws. It makes a 10-15% difference in insulation thermal efficiency.
When overlapping zip tape you should clean release agent from back of tape you are overlapping.
With that outswing door you might want to tac weld those pins to the hinge just as an added security precaution.
Most manufacturers use a security hinge with tabs on the plate that lock when the door is closed. This keeps the door in place even if the hinge pins are removed.
This video really made me want to install a door
can you get some sort of special hinges that someone cant just come by and pop the hinge pins?
Easy fix, just spot weld them
The hinges have protrusions that mesh together when closed. As long as the door is fit tightly enough in the frame, you can't pull the door hinges out when closed.
Lol I have to repair my one shed door here shortly very timely video for me thanks
There is no point of applying this to the head of the rough opening. First the waterproof layer is the side you see. Water follows gravity and flows toward the floor. If water got passed perimeter caulk and head flashing it won't reverse the flow of gravity and flow up. Second if water were to get behind the siding and head flashing and get behind the tape it will divert water to the inside. I've seen this failure before. The adhesive side is not a waterproofing layer. It will fill like a bag with water delaminate and dump a ton of water inside. Everything else is spot on. Remember water is gonna flow downward if your properly flashed head flashing fails that peel in stick at the head of the rough opening will be a liability.
Great tutorial
Amazing work thanks for sharing
Awesome. Thanks for sharing!
Does the manufacturer for Zip recommend against using the stretch tape for other factions of the house, say, sealing for a shower curb?
Maleckis like Matt... you're not gonna get any water ontop of this door fre other than 1/4 of a teaspoon if there was a monsoon and a bead of caulk would have sufficed... 😆😉
Great video
Just an FYI but a multi tool will give a good clean flat surface when you cut the foam. Much cleaner and faster than a knife.
Man, I completely FUBAR'd my door installation at my rental property after watching this lol oh well, I'll fix the rot when I'm 46
Great video, just curious what door type and material of door was used for exterior?
Do you have any videos on room in a room style soundproofing for audio purposes
Very nice!!
Have the metal sills been retired in favor of a back dam? Did my first window reinstall and will do the same to a patio door a la Christine Williamson’s video. Good deets here though.
Good tip on floating frame tech.
For anyone who is curious, this is a SHED
How would you prep for a french door but on a concrete pad? Flash butyl tape the whole opening or just the lower 6"? and was planning on wrapping the perimeter after installation before trim
The builder of my home did a bad job on my exterior doors. Any advice on a good home inspector in the Rio Grand Valley?
On that top flashing... shouldn't the wings be folded down vs up? That way, moisture wicks down the sides vs possibility being trapped in the corners.
Will you paint the raw wood at the bottom that is touching the ground?
That flashing tape is worth more than a shed here in canada
Awww you guys didn't video part of it...did you use foam insulation or something? It went from green zip seal to having siding where you installed the head flashing...
Anyone else find this dynamic super awkward? Can't wait to build a $175/sqft shed!
Is Zip flashing tape rated to stick to treated plywood?
Looks great Matt! 😃👍🏻🚪👊🏻 Thanks for sharing the process.
Hu, here all entrence doors swing out (with some _very_ rare exceptions), both due to easier egress in case of fire, but als cause it is usally easier to seal. It is also seen like in-swing doors steal space from the interior.
Harder for emergency services to get inside a house in an emergency
@S M "here" is Sweden. I know it is code with swing out in flats. Swing-in doors is basically only a thing if there is an obstruction in front of the door; like a basement entrence with stairs leading down to the door. Suspect the fact that a swing in door is harder to seal well is a major thing.
thanks. My contractor needs to watch this. those bums
Every exterior door in our house has sagged over time. It makes me think it’s better to anticipate this when installing but I’m no expert
Likely due to using dimensional lumber for your headers, which isn't covered in this video. If you start with LVL or PSL headers you won't have that problem.
I’m confused. You show the door flush and set with the sheathing. Shouldn’t the door be flush with the exterior siding? Then brickmold or your choice of trim goes over that and is nailed to the door frame and through the siding and framing. How did this door that was once flush with the sheathing magically appear trimmed out with no explanation? That would at the very least require jamb extensions to bring the door flush with the siding. Like I said, I’m confused.
The lip is always in the way of thinner flooring like LVP
Did you 'Monopoly Frame' your shed as well?
Is there a reason you didn’t check the door corner to corner in both directions, to check for square?
Guys, I've done the research. Zip tape is made by Huber Engineered Materials, a subsidiary of J.M. Huber, a private company. I hate to tell you, but you can NOT buy stock in Zip Tape. 😂
Why would you want to have the 1/4 inch gaps on the door pan instead of it being flush with the jam? Wouldn’t you want to allow any water that were to get to the jam to be able to run down the jam and roll off the pan?
I’d love to have access to these products.💕🇦🇺
1:17, 8:14 - is that JB Weld at the seams where the metal is cut to form around the door frame or?
Hey Matt. Been following you for several years. Have a question I cannot find a valid answer to. Is Great Stuff Crack & Gap foam Pro a true closed cell foam? Their faq and back of the can just says "water-resistant". Is that just for legal purposes, or is it just glorified open-cell foam? Before I foam my new windows I would like to know. Thanks for the great videos & keep up the good info!
Great Stuff expanding foam in general should be closed cell foam. As well as other moisture curing spray foams. You should use Great Stuff's "Window & Door" foam as it is a low-pressure expanding foam. The cracks & gap formula may bend the frame of the door or window causing issues with that installation for the rest of it's life. Another tip is to only fill the gap about 50% and allow it to expand some to prevent overfilling, then add more if needed. (There has been some speculation if there truly is a difference between all the different versions of the great stuff foam, i.e. fireblock, pestblock, window&door, and gaps&cracks, or if they use all the same formula.)
please try and hold the camera more steady. with the weird focal point of phone cameras.. the excessive shaking really causes motion sickness. But thank you for this video
Matt my wife wanted to know if the shed is now the "he" shed?
Do you build in Georgia?
It's called drip cap flashing
Hope your have locking pins in those hinges...
I want to know why some jamb weatherstripping is the spongy type and there is also the magnetic type. Any reason Most doors I see have the spongy type?
Has locks an dead bolt that are totally useless when hinge pins are accessable
its called an end dam in canada
Matt, you ended up using pine shims.
Who cares
1905 hand seamer
You don't sound so good. Feel better brother!
Should I do the same method for sealing my attic top plates. Low expansion foam AND big stretch caulk over top? All I've seen are videos only with great stuff foam for sealing attics.
How would one even ask their door contractor or homebuilder to do this to their doors?
You can. Write down the requirements you want (metal sill pan 24 guage, tape flashing, composite jambs, spray foam, big stretch caulk, etc) and ask them to quote you on this method of installation.
@@hubbstyle That's extremely important from a spec's and pricing standpoint. I would suggest that you also have a conversation with them, preface with you want quality and are willing to pay for quality (so they don't start with the idea you are trying to take advantage of them), and would they be willing to review this video, and would they be willing to have you present during the first installation (which will take much longer) to help iron out any questions on process. If the answer is "no", um ... that's bad.
Also consider how you might inspect these post-installation, and if there are important parts you can't see post-installation, maybe the installation should be broken up in stages. Inspections are a very important part of quality control. Any place where water needs to be excluded from the structure is a critical part of the build and should be inspected IMO.
good to know "which finger width to scrape that caulk down" with 🤣
I’d like to see a simple test of that tape to see if it overcomes the adhesive and tries to shrink back to its unstretched form
It doesn't
Show your proof
@@daveklein2826 it’s not a new product 🙃
@@mathewskaggs3955 maybe it’s old enough where we can get a viewing of an old install getting siding removed or something to show how the tape holds up over the years
Real secure w hinges out 😅
the out swing doors have set screws on the top and bottom hinges.
Great video although I wish you wouldn't use your cellphone for videos so often. It takes away from your better produced content.
Please send him a high end video camera
You really don't think he has the equipment already? lmao
@@tylerbunker9056 don't tell people what to do or how to spend their money
@@daveklein2826 didn’t you just tell me what to do or how to spend my money by suggesting I send him a camera? Which I know he already has 😂 move along
Why are the hinges on the outside?
If it swings out that's the way it has to be
Missed the steps with the exterior trim. "How To Set An Exterior Door - Start to ALMOST Finish" - TIFIFY.
The door swings out. Someone could break in through the hinges.
That shed is so large next to that beautiful house. How many expensive windows are now obstructed? My municipality has size restrictions that would have not permitted it. Plus my wife would have put the stop on it...
It’s a nice functional upgrade to the property in my opinion. Of the many considerations in a situation like this, I would choose storage over a view of my neighbors’ fence as well
Used heat gun
Pop the pin and I’m in. 😉
Try it spanky
Have you ever tried removing a locked door by just removing the pins? It can't be done.
@@dons.7632 Don, please humor all the experts
ousting doors use security hinges with locking tabs on the hinge plates. The tabs keep the door in place even if the pins are removed.
hinges on the inside
They make outswing door security hinges. This is a solved problem.
20 minute ad….
Sauce
Ss head flashing yet the siding is jus butted up to the door trim . WTF
All of that attention to detail and all someone has to do is pop the bolt out of the hinges to get inside and steal everything. Please tell me I didn’t see what I saw.
They may outswing door security hinges that won't release the door when it's closed even with the pin removed.
Nothing more that an ad for zip strech tape ... that is priced for crazy rich people.
He used a single piece of 4' stretch tape. How poor are you?
Talk about your Overkill...
Bro spent more time recording someone applying stretch tape and no recording with someone one shimming the gaps
Sigh... so many "products" so little access.
Frame savers are rot resistance not rot proof. Give them a decade and you’ll see rot
Not with this detail lmao, maybe if it was built like it was back then then, yeah it would.