Affiliate links to tools and parts in this video: 🛒 Dewalt Atomic DCF850 Compact Impact Driver homedepot.sjv.io/rnboQd 🛒 DeckMate 3 in. Exterior Self-Starting Wood Deck Screws #9 (1 lb./73 pcs): homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnre 🛒 Tapcon 1/4 in. x 3-3/4 in. Star Flat-Head Concrete Anchors (25-Pack): homedepot.sjv.io/VyjA0R 🛒 Loctite Tite Foam Pro Can Window and Door 19.6 oz. Spray Foam Sealant: homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnqe Note: Some links we provide for you are affiliate links which if you click on them and buy something, we may receive a small affiliate commission. We appreciate you supporting our efforts to continue to bring you world-class tool reviews, remodeling, and repair videos, tool giveaways, and shop with me videos looking for the best discount tool deals.
Put your molding on then spray foam from the inside and pull the weather strip out to screw behind them so when you put the strip back they hide the screws.
Great useful video! I have a practical suggestion from personal experience for anyone interested: If a reciprocating saw is not available to you for the removal of the frame, one can first use a magnet to find hidden nails and screws. The nails can then be removed with a small nail puller that costs around $15 or less - and it's quite a satisfying process!
Thank you. Installing an exterior door today for my Mom's 1940s home that was put together by a house mover who liked to combine houses. There is always a new guess how to repair things around here. This video feels like it will be very helpful. We shall see how it goes!
Sometimes (usually in an old house or house that has settled a lot) your jack studs will be twisted off plane with each other. In a perfect world, the door slab is flush with the drywall and there is a perfect 90 degrees in between the drywall/door slab and the jack studs (a horizontal plane 90 degrees). Then when you put your jamb and slab in, there should be a perfect 90 degree angle (horizontal plane 90 degrees) in between the door slab and the s-jamb and h-jamb. If the jack studs are twisted off plane and then you put your jamb in and shim, there's a high chance you're about to twist the jamb off plane as well. The str-jamb and hing-jamb may be perfectly plumb, but they can be twisted off plane which means your strike jamb and hinge jamb aren't perfectly parallel with each other. It may be a very mild twist and not enough to affect the door shutting but sometimes it does but that's usually a problem you'll run into in an old house. This is a rare problem but probably the most invisible problem to a lot of people hanging doors because you need a square to see it. You can get around this problem by using unbalanced shimming, meaning you might have to have an extra shim on one side than the other or you have equal # of shims on both sides but you had to drive one in farther in order to twist the jamb into proper alignment. But if you are hanging a door and you're showing plumb but the door is still scrubbing, then check your parallel of jamb legs (on both sides of the jamb legs, not just one side)
Good video I do remodeling and have been restoring old homes since I was 10 yrs old .My father taught me most of what I know and I completely understand how the real world and video fantasy land are .I like to find good content just for review and it turns out I was taught the rite way when it comes to door installation. GOOD VIDEO BY REAL PRO !
Excellent video!! I've never done an exterior door, but in the last two years I did six interior doors in my house. On one of them, I walled off the wide pocket doors, (leaving them intact inside) and got to install the new door in my own wall! I went for level and plumb using the closed door to manipulate the gaps, and then did a light check. I didn't do as good a job on three of them as you did on this one, especially with their trim, so I guess I should ask them if those doors are still working fine...
I'm not planning on replacing a door yet but Jeff does a good job explaining it. I have a metal front door that can use fresh paint whenever I get spare time to try and do that
About to replace and exterior back door on an older rental home I own. This video has been so helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain how its done in the real world!😉
Good door brand. For an exterior door, I prefer they swing inside into the room and preferably open against a wall. This one was right on the front corner of the garage...a little odd location. Good install BTW...I never agreed with snapping off the shims...they are best cut/trimmed flush and clean. This original build really screwed up where the lockset latches into the door frame. I have seen some of those studs just too far away and shimmed just enough that the door frame itself acts as the dead bolt latch...not secure at all. Would be best to have a 4x4 at all locks ! But I'm sure thats just asking too much. Good review Jeff
You want low expanding foam according to instructions. But no it cannot force the door and screws out of plumb. What happens is the foam will expand out the front and back side and you cut the excess off.
Thanks for the no BS real-world video, Jeff. This helps a lot. Any tips for choosing a secure door? Unfortunately, we’ve had more than one attempt to break in through our exterior garage door
Great video Jeff! You do such a great job and put so much effort into explaining everything. Looking forward to more how-to and DIY videos like this :)
Great video, but this outswing left hand door seems to have hinges on the outside which allows hinge-corrosion or burglar entry by knocking out 3 the pins.
Great video. Learned even more. Best so far. Would be helpful if you mention how much you save by doing it yourself or what new tools you might gain and what are the costs of some of these items. Might date the video some but we can see maybe if the entire project is worth doing it yourself. I am already looking at replacing the frame or parts of it because of water/insect damage. Need to know what to do to protect bottom wood frame or top because the builder didn't drop the outside of the door concrete pad so splash is happening. My outside garage door area really didn't last ten years. Coming on 18 years and I am just getting replacing it after a temporary fixes finally failed.
@@jeffostroff Doing mine now. Ran into some carpenter ants. Bottom damage to the frame and probaably took too long for a first timer. Now I have to go buy a door. Either ripping out the frame to cinder block or just reuse the top portion after cutting out the bottom. I had water damage on the bottom and the design has no step or gap to the front so water damage is going to keep happening unless I cover the whole outer concrete pad with the a/c unit. Have crowbar will travel.
Lol... if only it were this easy. Sill plate was at an angle and the wall studs around the door were slanted due to some water damage to the joists at one point (but is now fixed!). The door itself was also nowhere near square when not installed. 4 packs of shims later and it mostly closes and seals well. Need another 2 packs to get it perfect.
Doors are one of those installs where you know exactly what the final product needs to look like installed, but getting to that point is always a challenge!
Wow! A challenge for sure! And not for the faint of heart for anyone that has not done it before! It seems like it should be so easy, but au contraire! 🤔😳🙄🙄🙄😀👍✌🏻🔨
No when your a home owner the first thing you should do is make a list of required tools and either purchase them or see if you can borrow them so you get the job done right the first time.
Hi! Thanks for the video ☺ I just have one question. In many places, the wooden wedges are removed and any holes are filled. You sawed it off. Is it okay if you stay inside? Which is the better solution?
Should the mounting screws going through the hinges into the wall be installed behind the weather stripping, which is in the center of the frame? It looks like the hinges are not in the middle of t he frame, which means installing mounting screws into the hinge would pitch the frame forward.
Do you consider it a security issue to have your exterior door swing out? Having your hinges accessible from the outside seems risky. I ask this because I have an exterior door that needs replacing and, because of how the interior walls are situated, it would be better to have it swing out rather than in but I'm worried about security.
Soon as I saw your name on this one, I knew it would help. Now all I need is another person, as the 115 lb prehung door assembly is too heavy for me to move. Dammit.
@@stevef.8041 Oh I know. I've been a carpenter for 25 years, i have remodeled countless houses and It absolutely feels like that's how the rough openings are sometimes.
You don’t want to unless that door is protected from rain. Hence why this one is rotten. But if you need to, just buy the correct swing door and install just the same.
I am quite handy, grew up watching and helping my dad with all kinds of stuff (he was a pro). I'm trying to talk myself into tackling this job on my own house. It's a 66 year old house so I'm scared of what may be lurking behind the trim work....
level plumb square and true , too bad you did not show how any of these corrections are made , besides level , like what do if it was not square when you checked it
What about when one wall is 1.5 inches off at the sill from the other side ? You can't make it level plumb and square. You just can't. I've spent a 12 hr day fighting it. It takes installing many doors to realize you do the best you can to the eye , and make the door operable , where it will open up and close decently easy, and modify the lock catches to latch decent. I've installed hundreds and 1 out of 3 are like this especially in older homes. If the walls are mostly true, then yes you can go level
Have you thought about pouring down some self leveling compound to level the bottom of the floor first? I think that would be something I would look into I do this all the time in bathrooms before I tile I have to always get them level first
@@jeffostroff No, I don't mean the floor.... Of course, if it was out of level that's exactly what I would do. I mean if you were looking from the top of the wall down one wall is an inch and a half to 2 in away from the other wall if you were to chalk a line straight from wall to wall. So it ends up that your hinge side Is one or 2 in one way and the latch side is the opposite way cocking the door all crooked. I've done a lot of doors and it takes a true master to get a door like that to work. You will literally fight it for hours. I found the only way to make it work is do your best to line it up with the walls and the drywall etc. And then you just have to reroute and chisel hinges and catches
Good video, but I wish you had finished the door install with putting the trim back on. Also, you kind of skipped over a couple things like when you started to cut the nails with the saws all, you didn't say what you were doing until later in the video. Same with the removal of the old foam. I wasn't sure what was going on at that point. Also, this looks like it is definitely a 2 person job, which would be a good point to make when you make these videos. Otherwise this was very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
Affiliate links to tools and parts in this video:
🛒 Dewalt Atomic DCF850 Compact Impact Driver homedepot.sjv.io/rnboQd
🛒 DeckMate 3 in. Exterior Self-Starting Wood Deck Screws #9 (1 lb./73 pcs): homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnre
🛒 Tapcon 1/4 in. x 3-3/4 in. Star Flat-Head Concrete Anchors (25-Pack): homedepot.sjv.io/VyjA0R
🛒 Loctite Tite Foam Pro Can Window and Door 19.6 oz. Spray Foam Sealant: homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnqe
Note: Some links we provide for you are affiliate links which if you click on them and buy something, we may receive a small affiliate commission. We appreciate you supporting our efforts to continue to bring you world-class tool reviews, remodeling, and repair videos, tool giveaways, and shop with me videos looking for the best discount tool deals.
Put your molding on then spray foam from the inside and pull the weather strip out to screw behind them so when you put the strip back they hide the screws.
Yep that's how my fam does it too... always hide them behind the weatherstripping
Great useful video!
I have a practical suggestion from personal experience for anyone interested:
If a reciprocating saw is not available to you for the removal of the frame, one can first use a magnet to find hidden nails and screws. The nails can then be removed with a small nail puller that costs around $15 or less - and it's quite a satisfying process!
Thank you. Installing an exterior door today for my Mom's 1940s home that was put together by a house mover who liked to combine houses. There is always a new guess how to repair things around here. This video feels like it will be very helpful. We shall see how it goes!
Thumbs up for the accurate, rough framing diagram provided.
Sometimes (usually in an old house or house that has settled a lot) your jack studs will be twisted off plane with each other. In a perfect world, the door slab is flush with the drywall and there is a perfect 90 degrees in between the drywall/door slab and the jack studs (a horizontal plane 90 degrees). Then when you put your jamb and slab in, there should be a perfect 90 degree angle (horizontal plane 90 degrees) in between the door slab and the s-jamb and h-jamb. If the jack studs are twisted off plane and then you put your jamb in and shim, there's a high chance you're about to twist the jamb off plane as well. The str-jamb and hing-jamb may be perfectly plumb, but they can be twisted off plane which means your strike jamb and hinge jamb aren't perfectly parallel with each other. It may be a very mild twist and not enough to affect the door shutting but sometimes it does but that's usually a problem you'll run into in an old house. This is a rare problem but probably the most invisible problem to a lot of people hanging doors because you need a square to see it. You can get around this problem by using unbalanced shimming, meaning you might have to have an extra shim on one side than the other or you have equal # of shims on both sides but you had to drive one in farther in order to twist the jamb into proper alignment. But if you are hanging a door and you're showing plumb but the door is still scrubbing, then check your parallel of jamb legs (on both sides of the jamb legs, not just one side)
The most thorough door install video.
Agreed! Super helpful.
I've been watching videos here on TH-cam. Yours is the best by far. Your videos are for the common man. Thanks again
I appreciate that! Shawn!
Good video I do remodeling and have been restoring old homes since I was 10 yrs old .My father taught me most of what I know and I completely understand how the real world and video fantasy land are .I like to find good content just for review and it turns out I was taught the rite way when it comes to door installation. GOOD VIDEO BY REAL PRO !
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it Jeremy
Best illustration of leveling i've seen
I’m actually so much more confident having watched this. Thank you! Lol.
Excellent video!! I've never done an exterior door, but in the last two years I did six interior doors in my house. On one of them, I walled off the wide pocket doors, (leaving them intact inside) and got to install the new door in my own wall! I went for level and plumb using the closed door to manipulate the gaps, and then did a light check. I didn't do as good a job on three of them as you did on this one, especially with their trim, so I guess I should ask them if those doors are still working fine...
This install is still doing great. You will get better with each install
I'm not planning on replacing a door yet but Jeff does a good job explaining it. I have a metal front door that can use fresh paint whenever I get spare time to try and do that
Don't forget the sill pan if your area requires it
About to replace and exterior back door on an older rental home I own. This video has been so helpful.
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain how its done in the real world!😉
Good video. thanks! You may want to mention to use expanding foam for windows and doors. Regular expanding foam can warp the jamb.
Yes, good idea
This was fantastic. Real life tutorial.
And that’s how it’s done 👍🏼
Thank you for sharing, this was a great DIY video on installing a exterior door.
What manufacture of outside door do you prefer? Perfect timing of the video, I need to replace a front door in Florida. Thanks
I have used Jeld-Wen a number of times, this was a metal insulated door from Lowes, we were happy with it
@@jeffostroff Thanks.
One of the best videos on hanging exterior door. Better than This Old House. THANKS
Good door brand. For an exterior door, I prefer they swing inside into the room and preferably open against a wall. This one was right on the front corner of the garage...a little odd location.
Good install BTW...I never agreed with snapping off the shims...they are best cut/trimmed flush and clean. This original build really screwed up where the lockset latches into the door frame. I have seen some of those studs just too far away and shimmed just enough that the door frame itself acts as the dead bolt latch...not secure at all. Would be best to have a 4x4 at all locks ! But I'm sure thats just asking too much. Good review Jeff
This room was formerly a carport, with a sloped driveway so this made an interesting installation
One can never be too secure...
So do you want normal expanding foam or low expanding ? Thinking the regular might force the door frame out of plum and square
You want low expanding foam according to instructions. But no it cannot force the door and screws out of plumb. What happens is the foam will expand out the front and back side and you cut the excess off.
I am 0/3 on prehung entry doors. I thought maybe I would watch someone that knows how to do it. Excellent video.
Thanks for the no BS real-world video, Jeff. This helps a lot.
Any tips for choosing a secure door? Unfortunately, we’ve had more than one attempt to break in through our exterior garage door
Metal door, or you have to look for something more secure like thick steel door
@@jeffostroff Thank you Jeff. Seems like they have some offerings like that at Home Depot
excellent video, descriptive and clear. thank you
Thank you I didn't think i'd ever find a video that showed real world situation. Extraction Good video
Glad you liked it!
Great video, very welĺ explained and detailed. 💯 %👏
I’m glad you found it helpful!
Great video Jeff! You do such a great job and put so much effort into explaining everything. Looking forward to more how-to and DIY videos like this :)
More to come!
Great video, but this outswing left hand door seems to have hinges on the outside which allows hinge-corrosion or burglar entry by knocking out 3 the pins.
These are security hinges, where pins cannot be knocked out
Very helpful - best yet in doors - thank you
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation!!! Greatly appreciated 👏🏻
I'm glad the explanation was helpful for you!
"Fantasy land" lol! I gave you a thumbs up for the honesty. Great tutorial.
Thanks Willie
The guy filming and burping @ 10:03 made the video perfect.
Exactly how I do my doors. Not as fast as TV shows you . 😂 Real world 🌎 install, Thank you !
Glad you liked it thnaks!
Great video. Learned even more. Best so far. Would be helpful if you mention how much you save by doing it yourself or what new tools you might gain and what are the costs of some of these items. Might date the video some but we can see maybe if the entire project is worth doing it yourself. I am already looking at replacing the frame or parts of it because of water/insect damage. Need to know what to do to protect bottom wood frame or top because the builder didn't drop the outside of the door concrete pad so splash is happening. My outside garage door area really didn't last ten years. Coming on 18 years and I am just getting replacing it after a temporary fixes finally failed.
Great ideas thanks Bryan!
@@jeffostroff Doing mine now. Ran into some carpenter ants. Bottom damage to the frame and probaably took too long for a first timer. Now I have to go buy a door. Either ripping out the frame to cinder block or just reuse the top portion after cutting out the bottom. I had water damage on the bottom and the design has no step or gap to the front so water damage is going to keep happening unless I cover the whole outer concrete pad with the a/c unit. Have crowbar will travel.
It's like an episode of this old house
This old horse
Lol... if only it were this easy.
Sill plate was at an angle and the wall studs around the door were slanted due to some water damage to the joists at one point (but is now fixed!). The door itself was also nowhere near square when not installed. 4 packs of shims later and it mostly closes and seals well. Need another 2 packs to get it perfect.
For buying a door in the future, I suggest looking at Dako doors. They have sturdy products.
Will look into them thanks
You mentioned that the concrete was not level so you shimmed it. Did you do anything else? Wouldn't there be a gap under the door?
Doors are one of those installs where you know exactly what the final product needs to look like installed, but getting to that point is always a challenge!
yes, this took a few hours
I'm really enjoying your explanations through out the video!!
Glad you like them Patty!
Wow! A challenge for sure! And not for the faint of heart for anyone that has not done it before! It seems like it should be so easy, but au contraire! 🤔😳🙄🙄🙄😀👍✌🏻🔨
It really is easy, just make sure it is level plumb true
May I just say Thank you
No when your a home owner the first thing you should do is make a list of required tools and either purchase them or see if you can borrow them so you get the job done right the first time.
👍Great job Jeff.
Thanks!
Hi! Thanks for the video ☺
I just have one question.
In many places, the wooden wedges are removed and any holes are filled.
You sawed it off. Is it okay if you stay inside?
Which is the better solution?
Should the mounting screws going through the hinges into the wall be installed behind the weather stripping, which is in the center of the frame? It looks like the hinges are not in the middle of t he frame, which means installing mounting screws into the hinge would pitch the frame forward.
Do you consider it a security issue to have your exterior door swing out? Having your hinges accessible from the outside seems risky.
I ask this because I have an exterior door that needs replacing and, because of how the interior walls are situated, it would be better to have it swing out rather than in but I'm worried about security.
They are security hinges that cannot be popped
@@jeffostroff Ah nice! Thanks!
And the door is not protected by the weatherstrip when it swings out.
Outswing doors have hinges outside...as far as I know....and security hinges are a plus
Thank you you are a genius
You're welcome!
I see you have got a green tool in that video!!!!! Love Ryobi!!! Good job Jeff……
Yes my friend the homeowner owns that drill driver
So the expanding foam doesn't mess with the plumb?
No it is already screwed into the rough in opening, you do apply the expanding foam last
@@jeffostroff Thank you, I needed to understand that.
They also have low expansion foam made for this purpose
Great teching video - thank you.
Additional thanks for "my little friend" joke 😀
ROFL! I think Tim Burton made that door opening. Love the vid!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Super video, thank you Sir!
Soon as I saw your name on this one, I knew it would help. Now all I need is another person, as the 115 lb prehung door assembly is too heavy for me to move. Dammit.
this vid earns you a like and subscribe from me. thank you for sharing knowledge to the rest of us.
Awesome, thank you AL!
Thanks Jeff for your information and video, I appreciate you
My pleasure!
For every shim, did you have to screw in?
I loled when you showed the rough framed opening.
...but it's exactly what we find when we attempt these projects. Be prepared!
@@stevef.8041 Oh I know. I've been a carpenter for 25 years, i have remodeled countless houses and It absolutely feels like that's how the rough openings are sometimes.
This is literally wonderful, what a great explanation
Glad you think so!
great info jeff
Thanks Iggy!
Great video Jeff
Glad you enjoyed it
I literally busted out laughing when you showed that rough opening lol
You mean the parallelogram!
Thanks for all the great information, now I'm going to hang my new door
6:08 my man just actually said "fasTeners"....
LoL! I pointed that out to my "Dearest". She said I was the only one that would notice that. Thanks, pal!
Florida
Outswing exterior door very rare in my parts
They are common here in FL due to hurricane
New subscriber. You kinda sound like Stanley tucci 🤗😳
Great video . Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it Danny!
Great job guys ! 👍🏻👉🏻
Thank you! 👍
How would you deal with an exterior door going into an uneven concrete slab subfloor?
Great job 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great video! What would you say is an average cost someone can expect to pay for this type of job?
A contractor might charge you $100 or more per hour, and assume 3 or 4 hour job
My friend in CO just got a quote for this type of install... 30k
12:29 Are there fasteners at each Shim? Do you Anchor each of them?
I prefer to run a fastener trough every shim
Nice job well done
Thanks Ronnie
Looks like south Florida somewhere 😊
Well done! Thx.
My sill plate is 1/8 inch wider than the head plate, so it is not true. Any suggestions?
So you guys didn't have to put the vapor barrier tape on?
Keemazon gonna love them toes Jeff😎🤦🏻♂️😎🤦🏻♂️😎
LOL, yes that was my friend Grant
Thanks Jeff
Glad to help
How hard would it be to convert an existing garage exterior door that swings IN, to one that swings OUT ??
You don’t want to unless that door is protected from rain. Hence why this one is rotten. But if you need to, just buy the correct swing door and install just the same.
Do i need to screw the top door jam as well? I have a steel lintel up there so what do i do in this situation?
Yes, drill pilot holes into the lintel and then drill bit sizes up until you can screw into the metal
looks great
thanks Bob
both doors i have got so far weren't assembled correctly, putting them out of square by a solid 8th.
Yes, we see this all the time with prehung doors
Thanks!
Why didn’t you install a sill pan?
Perfection!! 👌🏽 thank you!
You're so welcome!
I am quite handy, grew up watching and helping my dad with all kinds of stuff (he was a pro). I'm trying to talk myself into tackling this job on my own house. It's a 66 year old house so I'm scared of what may be lurking behind the trim work....
We never know what is lurking there!
level plumb square and true , too bad you did not show how any of these corrections are made , besides level , like what do if it was not square when you checked it
The shims take care of all that
What part of Florida are you in?
What about when one wall is 1.5 inches off at the sill from the other side ? You can't make it level plumb and square. You just can't. I've spent a 12 hr day fighting it. It takes installing many doors to realize you do the best you can to the eye , and make the door operable , where it will open up and close decently easy, and modify the lock catches to latch decent. I've installed hundreds and 1 out of 3 are like this especially in older homes. If the walls are mostly true, then yes you can go level
Have you thought about pouring down some self leveling compound to level the bottom of the floor first? I think that would be something I would look into I do this all the time in bathrooms before I tile I have to always get them level first
@@jeffostroff No, I don't mean the floor.... Of course, if it was out of level that's exactly what I would do. I mean if you were looking from the top of the wall down one wall is an inch and a half to 2 in away from the other wall if you were to chalk a line straight from wall to wall. So it ends up that your hinge side Is one or 2 in one way and the latch side is the opposite way cocking the door all crooked. I've done a lot of doors and it takes a true master to get a door like that to work. You will literally fight it for hours. I found the only way to make it work is do your best to line it up with the walls and the drywall etc. And then you just have to reroute and chisel hinges and catches
I wish you didn’t skip over how you sealed the lower tight gap on the striker side. Seeing as the nozzle wouldn’t fit
Did not apply any where the straw won't go in
Take a saws all and cut the old frame. It makes removal much easier.
What kind of sealant do you recommend?
I prefer silicone, unless you want it to be paintable, then Alex 230
@@jeffostroff thank you!
Good video, but I wish you had finished the door install with putting the trim back on. Also, you kind of skipped over a couple things like when you started to cut the nails with the saws all, you didn't say what you were doing until later in the video. Same with the removal of the old foam. I wasn't sure what was going on at that point. Also, this looks like it is definitely a 2 person job, which would be a good point to make when you make these videos. Otherwise this was very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
Take out the weatherstripping first to find hidden nails and screws.
Yes, but in his case, he knew where most of the screws already were.
why does your door swing out? That's normal in Japan but in the us doors open inward.
Why is that exterior door opening outward? That might be, just a little shim over m kill?
I swear this guy sounds exactly like Ray Liotta rip
This was just in time for an upcoming to-do item! Stupid termites eating my doorframe. 🤬
Big problem here in FL especially with driving rains and bottom wood soaking up water.