Great video, very helpful as I need to change the propeller. Thanks for sharing so much information for Contessa 32 owners. I will send you a private message to ask for some technical details. Thanks again 😀
when using a2 leg bearing /prop puller. to stop the legs flying away from the shaft use a couple of plastic tie wraps, and cut away once withdrawn work piece is clear.
21:15 Helpful video but you missed out one of the most useful bits - removing the cutlass bearing. Perhaps you can do a short on changing one of those.
Regarding the prop at 6:30 recently hauled out. Be sure to at least repack with grease as soon as possible as if you were tempted to do it prior to launch any salt water that had managed to ingress into the hub will corrode the innards. In my case it became exceptionally stiff and I ended up sending to Darglow for a rebuld. They showed me pictures of the corroded parts they found. I had been laid up for about 4 months. Enjoy all your work very much. Thanks and Cheers Bill
I've never managed to pull a prop with those finicky pullers if the prop is cold. But a bit of a blowtorch on the prop and they always release easily. (won't work with the feathering blade prop of course).
Thanks for showing how you fit a featherstream prop. I'm just about to measure for one on my Westerly Conway ketch. I hope I won't need to saw off anything on the shaft to make it fit as you needed to do.
George again a great video. As my yacht has more horsepower than it needs I had my supplier match the prop to 1000rpm. Engine runs at 2000rpm through my gearbox 2-1 reduction = 1000rpm at the prop. At 2000rpm the engine produces 20hp. Half the revs twice the torque. The engine should last for ever.
Another great video - thanks so much. I've considered going from a 2 blade to a 3 blade max prop but it's a big cost and I seldom race. I'll remember to rewatch this if I ever do. Happy 2024!!
The trick with those pullers is to do them up until they seem tight but before they start bending, and then whack with a hammer. The whole thing either comes loose or they just fall off by themselves... 🤣
Hi, I had the same problem with that three way puller that turned into a two way I made two Centre plates that go alongside and over the big nut and keeps it Centred and used a hammer drill seem to work a lot better anyway that was my experience. This is what you do for a living , I’m only a backyard mechanic LOL. Keep up the good work. Love the videos Cliff from Logan City, Queensland, Australia 👨🏻🦽
Nice video.. you referred to the gearbox as part of determining the propeller pitch. What is the universal formula for determining the pitch for forward and reverse, and does the pitch change from the 2 blade to 3 blade propeller in forward and reverse?
Im not sure there is a universal formula but most prop manufacturers will have software or spreadsheet to help with that calculation but they is also an element of knowing what worked on other similar boats so experience plays a part.
the top of the rudder stock is mushroomed, looks like someone beat on it instead of using the bolt as you did. will that effect the taper working correctly? easy fix with a file but I'm not sure it's necessary? @~12:40
It’s always hard to know how technical to get in one of these videos. The pitch is set and adjusted with a small premachined block which is fitted into the forward end of the propeller hub, this block is machined as required to set the pitch. If a pitch adjustment is required, you can order a replacement and just fit it without having to remove the prop from the boat. The zinc anode is easy to replace, it is just two fixings into the propeller hub, and there is sufficient space to replace it with the rudder in place.
Sometimes there is spare for a small disk type cutter in front of the prop but it’s tight. Depends on the prop and the year of the boat as there are minor variations
There was no wear on the cutlass so I refitted it but had a supplier had one in stock I could have swapped it out for new but negligible benefit to doing so.
Because the boat performs better under engine with a three blade prop and it’s a pain to have to line-up the blades behind the skeg every time the engine is stopped.
@@goodq with the boat ashore, you move the propeller so that it is aligned behind the skeg, and then in the engine bay, you can mark the gearbox coupling with some paint, so that you know what its alignment should be when you are Sailing. When you want to align the prop once in the water after switching the engine off, you can either put the gearbox in and out of gear until the mark you have made is where you want it or you can leave the engine in gear and manually rotate the prop shaft by hand in one direction until it is lined up correctly. This is why feathering prop is so much nicer to use, because you don’t have the faith of manually lining up the prop behind the skeg
I have had a featherstream on mine for 4 seasons. I’ve just polished the SS each winter and cleaned once mid season (I can dry out!) sailing coastal SW and not had any serious fouling. I’m reluctant to cover up a shiny new prop! As George said it will vary by location.
The "NO GREASE" revelation is worth a coffee... Unfortunately my car, homeowner, boat insurance and rent went up an average 20% this year. Pensioner's didn't get much of a raise. Sorry.
Interesting video. You are incorrect about locking a fixed prop being less drag, a spinning prop is about half the drag of a locked prop. One of the sailing magazines did a test of that alongside feathering and folding props. Locked prop was worst, spinning 50% less drag, feathering was 90% less, and folding was 99% less.
Ahh, you may well be correct there, I was thinking about that article but for some reason I though it was the other way around…. Or maybe it was a different article/test.
It’s very odd, because in an aircraft or wind turbine, a spinning prop is definitely far higher drag. I’m aware of the magazine trial, but can’t see a reason why water would be different from air as they are both fluids.
We marked our shaft so we could lock it vertically to hide it as George mentioned. I believe that article just locked it randomly ? We also locked the prop to prevent wear in the gearbox although I’m pretty sure it was more to do with the annoying whine it made 😂
I have to say with the number of Contessa's out there, I'm dumbfounded that to remove a propeller and or a prop shaft, everyone is forced to cut into the skeg AND remover the rudder!!! This design seems so illogical. Couldn't the rudder be redesigned with a "cut-out" behind the propeller so that the rudder only needs to be swung to the side to to remove the prop or the prop shaft??
![[All About] Boat Propellers and Prop Walk | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E1dt19C_vxE/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video, very helpful as I need to change the propeller.
Thanks for sharing so much information for Contessa 32 owners.
I will send you a private message to ask for some technical details.
Thanks again 😀
when using a2 leg bearing /prop puller. to stop the legs flying away from the shaft use a couple of plastic tie wraps, and cut away once withdrawn work piece is clear.
I do enjoy your content. Very educational!..
George the "Contessa 32 Whisperer"!
😂 round here they started calling me “the contessa-professor”. I have definitely been called worse 😂
21:15 Helpful video but you missed out one of the most useful bits - removing the cutlass bearing. Perhaps you can do a short on changing one of those.
Awesome thanks so much. Suscribed ! I have a prop spinning on shaft. Now i understand what the issues probably are.
18:20 I wonder if some mild heating with a heat gun or propane torch will help George here as bronze expands more than steel.
Regarding the prop at 6:30 recently hauled out. Be sure to at least repack with grease as soon as possible as if you were tempted to do it prior to launch any salt water that had managed to ingress into the hub will corrode the innards. In my case it became exceptionally stiff and I ended up sending to Darglow for a rebuld. They showed me pictures of the corroded parts they found. I had been laid up for about 4 months. Enjoy all your work very much. Thanks and Cheers Bill
I've never managed to pull a prop with those finicky pullers if the prop is cold. But a bit of a blowtorch on the prop and they always release easily. (won't work with the feathering blade prop of course).
Thank you. It solved my problem of what props to choose.
16:00 two pieces of mild steel, a drill, a tap, and a little fitting will save money.
Thanks for showing how you fit a featherstream prop. I'm just about to measure for one on my Westerly Conway ketch. I hope I won't need to saw off anything on the shaft to make it fit as you needed to do.
George again a great video. As my yacht has more horsepower than it needs I had my supplier match the prop to 1000rpm. Engine runs at 2000rpm through my gearbox 2-1 reduction = 1000rpm at the prop. At 2000rpm the engine produces 20hp. Half the revs twice the torque. The engine should last for ever.
Glad you’re back. Safe and happy 2024. Great prop vid.
Thanks! You too!
Good to have you back George.
Great video, plenty useful informations...
Have a happy and productive new year!!!
Thanks, you too!
Another great video - thanks so much. I've considered going from a 2 blade to a 3 blade max prop but it's a big cost and I seldom race. I'll remember to rewatch this if I ever do. Happy 2024!!
Thanks, it’s a max prop that I have on my cruising boat, it was fitted by the previous owner and has performed well.
The trick with those pullers is to do them up until they seem tight but before they start bending, and then whack with a hammer. The whole thing either comes loose or they just fall off by themselves... 🤣
Good tip.
Hi, I had the same problem with that three way puller that turned into a two way I made two Centre plates that go alongside and over the big nut and keeps it Centred and used a hammer drill seem to work a lot better anyway that was my experience. This is what you do for a living , I’m only a backyard mechanic LOL. Keep up the good work. Love the videos Cliff from Logan City, Queensland, Australia 👨🏻🦽
I wanted to show that it can be done with DIY tools, but obviously failed in this video. Thanks for the comment. I’m pleased you enjoy the videos.
Loctite do a product for sorting mullered keyways - 660. I have bought some for the flywheel keyway of an outboard but not had a chance to use it yet.
Very informative episode, thanks! Andrew
My pleasure!
Not all who watch are subscribers! (Just based on interest!) Love the video, Geo.!!!
Hurrah!! Nice to see you! Happy New Year! Great video as always.
Thanks and same to you!
@@RefitandSail sent you 20$ for beer. Enjoy. 🍺🍺🍺
@@koolkats724nice, thanks v much
Great advice
Thanks Nick.
Nice video.. you referred to the gearbox as part of determining the propeller pitch. What is the universal formula for determining the pitch for forward and reverse, and does the pitch change from the 2 blade to 3 blade propeller in forward and reverse?
Im not sure there is a universal formula but most prop manufacturers will have software or spreadsheet to help with that calculation but they is also an element of knowing what worked on other similar boats so experience plays a part.
What stops a folding prop from folding itself up when you put it in reverse?
The weight of the blades and centrifugal force.
@ good point but it must still be least efficient of the three types in reverse. Is the blade shape biased to the forward direction?
the top of the rudder stock is mushroomed, looks like someone beat on it instead of using the bolt as you did. will that effect the taper working correctly? easy fix with a file but I'm not sure it's necessary? @~12:40
Taper seems a good fit and not an obvious mushroom, maybe an optical illusion via the camera.
Fair to say that if the thread is metric then so is the shaft?
Not always but likely
I was hoping to find how you set the hand and pitch of the prop.
How do you replace the zinc with the rudder back in place?
It’s always hard to know how technical to get in one of these videos. The pitch is set and adjusted with a small premachined block which is fitted into the forward end of the propeller hub, this block is machined as required to set the pitch. If a pitch adjustment is required, you can order a replacement and just fit it without having to remove the prop from the boat. The zinc anode is easy to replace, it is just two fixings into the propeller hub, and there is sufficient space to replace it with the rudder in place.
Thanks@@RefitandSail
Hi.
Do you now need to remove the rudder to replace the anode?
No, there is enough of a gap to unscrew the two anode fixings and swap the anode for a new one.
George you can’t fit a a Rope Cutter to a Contessa then?
Sometimes there is spare for a small disk type cutter in front of the prop but it’s tight. Depends on the prop and the year of the boat as there are minor variations
Great video. Not that I saw any wear but having removed the cutlass bearing could it be a good idea to replace it anyway?
There was no wear on the cutlass so I refitted it but had a supplier had one in stock I could have swapped it out for new but negligible benefit to doing so.
Why not using the 2 blades one than can be covered by the transom?
Because the boat performs better under engine with a three blade prop and it’s a pain to have to line-up the blades behind the skeg every time the engine is stopped.
@@RefitandSail stupid question. How do you actually line up the propeller with the skeg?
@@goodq with the boat ashore, you move the propeller so that it is aligned behind the skeg, and then in the engine bay, you can mark the gearbox coupling with some paint, so that you know what its alignment should be when you are Sailing. When you want to align the prop once in the water after switching the engine off, you can either put the gearbox in and out of gear until the mark you have made is where you want it or you can leave the engine in gear and manually rotate the prop shaft by hand in one direction until it is lined up correctly.
This is why feathering prop is so much nicer to use, because you don’t have the faith of manually lining up the prop behind the skeg
@@RefitandSailyou need a system to hold the shaft to keep it aligned but for some boats worth the effort 😂
Often in sailing I find a question that I have so complex and then the answer is so simple that I feel like an idiot 😂😂😂😂😂@@RefitandSail
Nice work. What do you for antifouling the prop? Expensive bespoke stuff or lanolin type solution?
On my boat I use Velox which seems to work ok but it’s very location dependent and what works here may not work for elsewhere
I have had a featherstream on mine for 4 seasons. I’ve just polished the SS each winter and cleaned once mid season (I can dry out!) sailing coastal SW and not had any serious fouling. I’m reluctant to cover up a shiny new prop! As George said it will vary by location.
Have you used or know someone have EWOL propellers
Not aware on them
The "NO GREASE" revelation is worth a coffee...
Unfortunately my car, homeowner, boat insurance and rent went up an average 20% this year.
Pensioner's didn't get much of a raise.
Sorry.
No probs, donations are entirely voluntary. I’m pleased you got something good from the video.
Interesting video. You are incorrect about locking a fixed prop being less drag, a spinning prop is about half the drag of a locked prop. One of the sailing magazines did a test of that alongside feathering and folding props. Locked prop was worst, spinning 50% less drag, feathering was 90% less, and folding was 99% less.
Ahh, you may well be correct there, I was thinking about that article but for some reason I though it was the other way around…. Or maybe it was a different article/test.
It’s very odd, because in an aircraft or wind turbine, a spinning prop is definitely far higher drag.
I’m aware of the magazine trial, but can’t see a reason why water would be different from air as they are both fluids.
We marked our shaft so we could lock it vertically to hide it as George mentioned. I believe that article just locked it randomly ? We also locked the prop to prevent wear in the gearbox although I’m pretty sure it was more to do with the annoying whine it made 😂
You have WHAT-------- A LIFE !!!!, but what about us !!!
Haha, well I’m trying to get some balance at least, partially successful
I have to say with the number of Contessa's out there, I'm dumbfounded that to remove a propeller and or a prop shaft, everyone is forced to cut into the skeg AND remover the rudder!!! This design seems so illogical. Couldn't the rudder be redesigned with a "cut-out" behind the propeller so that the rudder only needs to be swung to the side to to remove the prop or the prop shaft??
Sense of humor failure, ha ha! 😂
Haha, we all do it sometimes!
Honestly.....you have the knowledge but .....
But? 😬