Hello there you wonderful bunch of people! Here is a link to a FREE / PUBLIC post on Patreon, where you can download PDF documents about doing this job: www.patreon.com/posts/23183271 Thank you very much for watching, if you want us to keep making videos you can join our 🌟Patreon Crew🌟 for as little as $1 per month, to help us keep making videos. Otherwise, give this video a thumbs up and share it somewhere: on a forum, Facebook, Reddit, Twitter, email a mate, whatever you like - just share it! YOU can help us grow and give us the incentive to keep making videos. Thank you! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
Just about to replace my rubber seal myself from my Volvo motor. This is the first video that I found to show from start to finish. Thank you so much for a great video.
Hi there, we love all our viewers, especially those who take the time to comment so supportively. We're sure that in time we will be able to grow our Patreon Crew to the point that makes our Channel financially sustainable, and any of our viewers who share our videos help us achieve this. If you would take the time to share this video then we would be immensely grateful. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
Hi Dan, we love helping people and we know how useful it would have been for us to see a video like this before we did this job! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
You are a loving dad and husband and I love to see you interact with your precious baby. You have a great family and look forward to more videos of your journey.
Thank you Richard! Children are such a blessing and their natural joy and love for the world can teach us adults a lot about life... Welcome aboard and fair winds! Chris 😊
Done! Oh my, it was some work. Definitely not a one mad job for me, there was some heavy lifting involved... but a 2-man 3-days job. Your video was invaluably helpful and saved us so much trouble. Cheers!
Another brilliant demonstration, thanks for those small details, and for including the locking wire oversight. When you considered applying heat to the aluminum housing to get the sea cock off, I remembered a few disasters I've had doing automotive repair through the years. Heat and aluminum don't go so well, I've stripped out aluminum threads frozen to steel bolts more than once.
Hi there, that is a great compliment coming from you, thank you! I was being careful with the Aluminium as it is delicate. If things had gone wrong a helicoil could have been an option, but I had enough on my plate already whilst filming this, so fortunately that wasn't needed. :-) Comments on TH-cam are fantastic as it give the world a chance to peer review videos like this for the benefit of everyone, so thank you for taking the time to share your opinion. Cheers, Chris 👍
Hello From Nova Scotia! I have a 110s that needs doing and have been putting off due to the daunting nature of it. This is just so invaluable, and gives my confidence to do this a huge boost. For all their detractors, my md7a with sail drive has never let us down and gives incredible fuel economy. I owe her some TLC. Many, many thanks.
Hi Curtis, and hello to beautiful Canada! (I adore Canada and imagine Nova Scotia must be a fantastic place to sail) I'm very glad to hear that this video will help you look after your saildrive. We love helping people so it's very satisfying to get comments like this. Cheers, Chris 👍
Watching this makes me happy I don't have a saildrive. Great job keeping the video family friendly. I would have taken the opportunity to get some line cutters installed. Fair winds Chris & family.
Very well presented and timely as I am going to inspect a 39 year old 27 foot boat for purchase which has a saildrive unit. I now have a few more things to look for and a few more questions to ask of the owner. While I most likely would not try a renovation, as you have done, I now can appreciate the work required if I have it done by a ship engineering company. Thanks again.
One of the best, that is to say thorough, clear and well explained, "how to" sailboat maintenance videos I've seen. Well done and thank you. Happy sails!
Thank you!!! I am currently working up the courage to get into this job and I feel so much better after watching this excellent walk through. Again, thank you so much for making this video!
I did my saildrive 7 years ago so our Bavaria 36 is due a change again this year. Like Chris I am a retired RAF aircraft engineer and well taught in the useful skills for this job (although my experience of aircraft is probably a couple of generations before Chris's!) But this video is a useful reminder of the sequence and pitfalls of the operation. The Bavaria does not have such good access as his boat but I was able to remove our engine completely which made life easier although it did involve disconnecting the engine entirely with the subsequent necessary reconnections and engine bleeding etc.
Hi there, thank you for watching & commenting. I'm sure it will be a lot easier for you this next time round as you've already done the job once. I couldn't find any videos like this out there before I did ours, so I hope that this will be of value to other boat owners who like to do their own boat work. I personally believe that the trade training at Cosford (or Halton as I believe it was before) is amongst the best in the world. I have certainly never seen anything anywhere near as professional anywhere in the commercial world, despite working for a variety of oil & gas companies with vast budgets. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Biggles One I was at Halton back in 1960 aged 15 on a 3-year apprenticeship. I worked on a whole host of aircraft, now all obsolete! I took up sailing in Gib where we lived next to the Sailing Club on the harbour (now filled in). As you say the RAF Training was second to none and set me up with long lasting skills which I am using sixty years on. Good luck with your project and hope that you and your young family have a great sailing adventure.
Very nice work! I have been doing this a couple of times, when I was working in a small boat workshop in Gothenburg, Sweden. I saw some things that should be adressed sometimes in the future: 1) Control wires are brown = very old and often rusty inside the shield. They tend to break exactly in the middle of a maneuver. I would recommend new low friction wires. They are often black nowadays 2) When you have the shock absorbers loose, consider get a new pair. If they are 26 years old as well, the rubber often separates from the steel and then they do no good. 3) The fuel hose was reinforced plastic hose, that get extremely stiff by the diesel oil. It should be replaced by a oil resistent rubber hose, preferable of a type that don't generate static electricity. You have a very good engine, VP 2003, but unfortunately the spare parts are discontinued by Volvo Penta. So take good care of it, never overheat it and change the oil one time too often, it's never wrong to have clean oil, whatever the instruction manual or your boat neighbor says. At least once a year despite running time.
Hi Patrick, thank you for watching and commenting with your intelligent observations. I was aware of the fuel hose before I bought the boat and at the time of filming this video I had already bought the replacement. A proper diesel-greade fuel hose has now been fitted (it's in one of our more recent videos). Thanks again for commenting, which helps any other viewers reading this, as well as us. Fair winds! Chris 👍 (plus Rossella & Emma 🙂)
Thanks for sharing your experiences in the servicing and maintenance of your yacht. Having just found your video channel I’m catching up with your videos. Thank guys and as for Admiral Emma for supervising the work.🏴⛵️
The editing on this was a killer. Once I had finished this monster I had about 10 or 15 failed exporting attempts and in the end I had to reduce the quality to 720p to get the video file without glitches. So many hours... I hope this helps people! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Chris, Just like to add my gratitude to the rest. A very real demonstration of work on a boat in a confined space. I'm about to embark on this task and there is a lot of very useful stuff here. Thank you
Great job you've done and you should be proud of your self. Only one thing for next time when you put back steel bolts under sea level always deep them in marine grade grease first so next time they will come off easily and reduces galvanic corrosion too. I have worked with outboards for some time professionally and instructions are clear about using grease to every bolt except those that are on the engine like head bolts. Greetings from Greece and thank you.
Great Work mate Very practical good engineering mate! That thing will last forever because you've done a great job. I've had a boatyard do the same job and leaked straight away and they said it's fine and normal to leak (until the oysters grow and stop the leak that is) So you have aced it really good work .
Just found your channel and immediately subscribed. Top notch work mate! Very well documented and organized. You will be both an inspiration and a HUGE help to me - a first time boat owner (Lippincott 30 with OCM Zepher sail drive made in the USA). Best of luck.
I wish I had seen this in February, just before I changed mine. It would have been a great help, especially as I didn't know what I as going to come across & needed to have everything to hand before I started. This would have been a very helpful video. Hope you had a good year on the water.
Shame you missed this but I’m glad you got yours done. It would definitely be a lot easier the second time round as, like any job, you learn best by doing. Fair winds mate, Chris 👍
Excellent job - I, like you, prefer to do things myself - I think it is unlikely that another person doing this in a shop would have spent as must time and care making sure everything was throughly cleaned before reinstalling. Yep it will take you twice if not three times as long doing it yourself but it’s worth it - and these videos are an immense help for the next DIY’er to know what they are getting into before starting a job and the shop manual never has all the information you need when the parts aren’t new and pristine. Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. We are in the process of renewing the diaphragm on our Bavaria 35. I noticed that you seemed to have solid engine mounts with no rubber bushing - ours has the original, which are rubber, and presumably take some of the loadings. The rear hole, which you had to pack out, is still circular on ours, (despite a lot of use!), and I wondered if this might be related to the fact that the rubber mounts provides some give on ours, so there is less stress on that bolt hole.
My pleasure! Our mounts do have rubber sections too, but my "stress test" was too much for the stbd one. The packing on the rear mount is still perfect. 🙏 Best regards, Chris 👍
Hello body, thanks you very much for this video, it is really awesome. I disassamble my saildrive years ago and really here you are describing very detailed all the things that you have to keep in mind when you want to do it, Again thank you very much.
Very interesting, thanks. BTW, I changed this seal on a friend's boat. We used the main sheet hoist to lift the engine (thru the companionway). I think its an interesting alternative to the use of wedges.
Hi Georges, that was my first choice too but the geometry was wrong on our boat and the engine would have come too far forwards (without taking the woodwork apart). This was easy enough, it probably looks harder in the video than it was in real life. Cheers, Chris
Hey there, thanks for this video and the pro tip on tying the saildrive to the keel... I just did a saildrive replacement and it was super valuable in helping me get the spline shaft of the drive aligned with the engine.
Great video guys, Even though i'll likely never change a sail drive diaphragm in my life i still found it interesting all the way through, gives me an idea how boats work :) Great to see my Drone footage still coming in handy too :) Emma's laugh is so funny :) Catch up soon Garreth
Hi Garreth! Never say never, you might own a boat with a saildrive one day... Your drone footage is excellent mate! I look forward to seeing you again soon. Cheers, Chris 👍
Grazie Stefano, farlo e una cosa: registrarlo e un altro!... Sono aperto alle opinioni di tutto il mondo. Ci vuole piu' corraggio a metterti in piazza cosi, che a fare il lavoro. :-) Grazie, Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly Riflettevo che avresti potuto usare la drizza di randa per aiutarti a tenere il blocco motore in linea ed evitarti di fare tutta la fatica con i pali di legno per rimettere il motore in linea.
L'ho pensato anch'io, ma in realta' non era possibile perche la cima sarebbe arrivato da 1 metro in avanti dal centro di gravita' del motore. Invece di sollevarlo, lo avrebbe tirato verso la prua...
Nice video. I love to learn about boats. So thank you for being my teacher :D Sorry you had to run into the issues with the sail-drive (the prop and all).... But you pulled it off literary.. Well done!
Thank you Bjørn! If you know anyone else who might appreciate this then please share our channel with them th-cam.com/users/sailingbritaly Cheers, Chris 👍
Thank you for all your detailed step by step information, I'm replacing mine next month and your video is an absolute gold mine of information 👍. I'm truly thankful for your time and hard work in recording this. SV Trigger Happy
Please Simon give me the adress of the store you will buy the elastic diaphragm, o rings ,etc. Here in Greece they do no stock old parts. My Rassy 26 haw a saildrive too, and children feel ready to be sailors...
This is a really great video, you have a very engaging way of explaining how to do things. My sail drive seal is due to be replaced this year and we will certainly your video. Thank you so much. Fair winds to Family Britaly!
Hi Dianne, thank you very much. If you need a hand with anything I offer technical assistance by videocall. If you get stuck with something I can help you resolve it in just a few minutes: sailingbritaly.com/videocalls Cheers, Chris (plus Rossella & Emma) ⛵️👍
I really am no engineer but remember helping my Dad put a gearbox back into a car and had a real problem getting the gearbox spline to mate into the flywheel. If that makes sense did you get lucky because if the shaft didn’t align I’m not sure what you’d do. Turn the engine over by hand? You really are very talented 👍
Hi there, the main problem with this (as was seen on removal where it took a while to split the saildrive and engine) is keeping the saidrive and engine aligned - the saildrive can move around quite a lot and if it's not supported then it tends to drop down at the fwd end, this small angle of misalignment then makes it difficult for the splines to disengage (or engage on the way back in). When I was mating up the two the saildrive was held steady and at the correct height by the lines and support outside the boat, so as I lifted the engine and moved it backwards the splines were aligned. There is very little rotational resistance in the transmission and I believe the splined saildrive input shaft could be rotated by hand if necessary, however I believe that anyone who has trouble getting the engine and saildrive to mate is far more likely to be dealing with angular misalignment as outlined above, rather than rotational misalignment of the splines. Thank you! Chris 👍
Great video! Looking at your costs including the propeller it seem to be very good value. A result! Alignment of engine and splined input shaft seemed to go too easily... luck or judgement but rotating the prop shaft whilst in gear would get over any issues. Sealants and gaskets don't usually mix but you've got experience of this with your engineering history. Nice professional job, well done!
Bob Rose Hi Bob, thank you. Positioning the saildrive leg and holding it in position with lines and the stand below was judgement, manually lifting the engine up and sliding it aft straight onto the shaft was pure luck! Cheers, Chris 👍
Hi - I changed mine last year - used a winch to drag the engine forward, rather than levering it. A tip for next time (which I expect you will have forgotten about in 7 years) Set up a Spanish windlass between the keel and the saildrive before you start and tension it - this will keep the drive level as you move the engine forward and save you from using levers on mating faces!
Hi Anthony, the mating faces were intact as I was being gentle whilst levering. As always, doing this a second time round would take half the time (or in my case less than a quarter of the time as I won't be filming it again!) I used a trucker's hitch from the keel to the saildrive in the latter part of the video to achieve the same end and it worked a treat. It literally took about 10 minutes to get the engine and drive engaged with no help from anyone. If I was to do this job again I would use the same tachnique to maintain the position of the saildrive whilst moving the engine forward by hand (In the end I found I could just manhandle it around wherever I wanted it). Cheers, Chris
I wasn’t clear, I meant to say place silicon grease between the two seals on the propeller shaft. This will help lube the seal on the water side. Love your channel and supper cute baby. Dave
Oh man you are awesome and i tired when i was watching. Now i'm start to think how can i do with mine! well done! You got me and will check all your vlogs. best
Great video and thank you for posting. While you are at it may I advise you change your brass screens in your air intake silencer on your Volvo. Over 20 years ours fatigued and then got sucked into the #1 cylinder requiring us to remove the head. We replaced with a K&N air filter with foam interior to avoid headache again.
Another great video Chris. I havent got a saildrive as I am on outboards and propshafts but if I did I would be watching your video. :) for tips. A good comprehensive chapter. Had a very worrying incident once with a propshaft. Both jibsheets fell over each side of boat while underway because our charter co forgot to put figure of 8 knots on bitter end of sheets after last hire and we overlooked it...duh.... Anyway upshot was (sods law) that they both got wrapped round prop and ripped the gearbox mounting plate off the engine face, causing the prop shaft to slid down inside the outer shaft tube a few inches. Not nice at 8pm at night when the wind drops in the Med. Thankfully it didnt bend the shaft or slide and drop into the med and fill the boat and leak...!!!!. No idea what impact it would have on a saildrive leg in the bottom of boat..... so worth knowing from our mistake. Always put a stop knot in end of jib sheets if they go far enough to back of boat to be near the prop. If your ever up our way send me a ping. Fair winds David
Hi David, thank you for your comment and for sharing your experience with the jib sheet / prop encounter, it only takes a minute for a trip to go from super chilled to oh flip! Sunny Blackpool will always be "home" for me :-) Fair winds, Chris 👍
the dozen who dislike you are idiots. You are doing us all a great service and your videos are extremely detailed. Like any aviation mechanic you are meticulous and yet as practical as a sailor. My 84 year old neighbor asked me for help replacing his bad sail drive which I have never done before and after watching your video I was able to take it off confidently in four hours. Of coarse putting the new one on will be a different story........ Keep up the good work, cheers! Captain Lewis Overdorp
Hi Lewis, thank you very much. Getting everything back together should be easy if you spend the time to line everything up and support/tie the saildrive in place so it can't move. Good luck! Chris
Hi, I love your videos. They are very informative. I'm saving them for future reference. I like your DIY approach. I'm on the hunt for a boat myself However is quiet difficult so look at boats right due to the covid19 restrictions. I got my eyes on a Ohlson 38. Thanks for Sharing.
Hi Luis, thank you! A lot can be done remotely, including negotiating on a boat. We have done this many times and have agreed substantial price reductions (well over 30%) from the comfort of our home. Funnily enough I'm currently launching a course on this very subject: www.boatbuyingblueprint.com Cheers, Chris
Hi there, that is very nice to hear, merci boucoup. We will be travelling through the French canals down to the Mediterranean and we are looking forward to seeing more of your beautiful country. Fair winds, Chris 👍
My French is definitely not better than your English! :-) I look forward to learning some French during our trip through the canals. We are planning to enter the Med around Marseille so we will be pretty close at some point in the future... 🙂
Sailing Britaly well as long as our family and friends can follow our travels through the videos and not get too bored watching, that'll do, anything else is a bonus. We too have a sail drive and I have to say, judging how pristine your old one looked, I'm not going to panic too much that ours is dated 2010, although if I do find the nerve to tackle job myself, I'll be sure to bung you £50 to say thanks for the tutorial, and you can hold me to that 😁🍹
Hi Watching your removal of the Saildrive made me recall the old, super helpful, Haynes Manual 'instruction' - refitting is the reverse of removal! ;-)
Hi there Chris fantastic Video ,watched it several times before I did the job on my boat which went very well thanks , one question ,you used a product called CT! to re-install the lower saildrive rubber was it successful ,did it stand the test of time ?
Hi David, thank you for your comment. Bit late now but I'll answer for the benefit of others: Yes the CT1 has worked perfectly, years down the line. Prep is key, sanding both the hull and the seal before installation. Cheers, Chris 👍
Once again. Very informative. Thank you so very much. I doing the same job now. Thanks to you I dare trying! I just realized you do not use the supplied gasket at 44:38, instead you just use permatex when connecting the upper/lower part. I guess I am missing something. Is there no need for the (green?) gasket? Regards Karl Sitell
Thank you for a very useful video. Only now I realized that it seemed as your prop anode was painted over with the antifoul. Hence, the anode was cut off from the water and the propeller got corroded. The kind of things that do not appear obvious until you learn by experience.
Your engine bed is a lot different than the newer ones, they don't have that deep gap behind the engine mount areas almost until you get to the flywheel. Also - do you think that adding permatex might change the shimming needs? That will add a tiny amount of length to the transmission.
Thats number one on my to do list too but here in belgium we have to have it done by a Volvo penta mechanic otherwise the insurance won't cover anymore ... ! Will be around $1200 or so ... better have it replaced than to be sorry ! Nice work love your videos very helpfull!! new sub ;)
Welcome aboard! Wow, those are some picky insurers. We had an insurance company insist on a survey (which I did myself prior to purchase) around a year ago. Rather than pay £500 for a survey which we didn't need, we just changed insurance company to an underwriter who didn't insist on seeing a survey for the boat. This may not always be an option but sometimes 'voting with your feet' can be a good option. Britaly is in Belgium now, so there will be videos of that at some point. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks for the great video, helped me a lot when putting together the parts after changing the seal rings! However, when I pressed the roller bearing ring in place like you have done at 1:03:10, the shims under the ring has some millimeters of space to move around. When you knocked the bearing housing home with a hammer at 1:04:47, you actually moved the roller bearing ring some more millimeters into the bearing housing so that it squeezes the shims, like it should. If you would remove the shaft and bearing housing again, you would see that there is some millimeters between the roller bearing ring and the edge of the bearing housing. If you removed the shaft and bearing housing again, you could easily put it back without using a hammer. I'm not trying to point at any errors, because you did nothing wrong, however, I spent some hours trying to figure out if I lost some shims and hope this comment will save someone else's time.
Very nice work, especially good documentation! We want to do the same thing on our boat this winter and change the platic valve as well. Can you tell us the diameter of the thread in the aluminium gear part? Would be a great help for preparation! Also there are boats like ours, where the saildrive goes throught a very needly hole in the hull without any rubber seal at the bottom, so we can´t get the bottom part of the saildrive out of the hull that easy. I think the bottom part can in this case stay in the boat, we have only lift it enought to reach the screws. Thank you for the great content! Greetings from germany!
Hi Tom, danke for the feedback! :-) The seacock thread is 1/2" and we bought ours here: www.yachtboatparts.com/volvo-penta-saildrive-sea-cock-seacock-bronzedzr-7204-p.asp I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the saildrive on your boat: if you want to replace the saildrive diaphragm seal then you need to split the leg. Let me know if I can be of further assistance when you do the job. 😉 Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks a lot for your help! At first I want to buy theese new Valve and fittings here in germany, but now we see the cheep prices you sem to get in england. Do you know a shop where we can get also t-parts and other fittings? With our installation on the boat, after splitting the saildrive leg, the bottom part will still stay in the hull, because the gearbox down at the propeller ist to wide to fit throght the hole in the hull. So my plan is to lift the saildrive up as much as possible, fix it in this position an then seperate the two leg parts in the boat. In this video you can see the small hole in the hull th-cam.com/video/U32xxY1eFX8/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Hi Tom, that's an unusual setup which makes me wonder how they got the leg in there in the first place! (There must have been a larger opening which has since been filled and faired) ASAP supplies were good for us www.asap-supplies.com/ but I believe SVB can be good for certain things www.svb.de (and expensive for others) We always shop around whenever we buy things because prices can vary a lot and different suppliers can often be competitive for different things. Happy fixing! Chris 👍
Hi, @@SailingBritaly , I think the got the leg in and laminate a plate around the bottom hole to get it very smooth. Thank you a lot for your help, we love your project!
Hi Chris, not sure if possible on your boat but we put a tackle on our boom to lift the engine out of her bay. The tackle takes the weight and you can concentrate on positioning. might be an option for future engine/saildrive jobs.
Hi there, yes that was the first thing I looked at but on our boat the lifting point would have pulled the engine forward about a metre, so this wasn't an option for us. Levers and manhandling worked ok though. Cheers, Chris
Glad to be of service! Good luck with your purchase and if you need a hand with any refit work we offer one-to-one assistance via video calls. Cheers, Chris
Interesting. I have a mostly the same sail drive unit and my mechanic has recommended ditching the raw water inlet completely and fitting an alternate thru hull at a more accessible position. The reason is mostly those mussels you found way up inside the unit. Apparently fine while the boat is in the water but when you haul out they die. When the boat goes back in the remains migrate and cause a nasty surprise as you head off on your passage with your nice clean bottom. So good plan to fit the backup supply.
Hi Simon, yes I was surprised to see such large mussels up so high, they obviously enter when tiny and then grow in-situ! We are happy to have the backup cooling water supply. It's like a cooling water insurance policy :-) Fair winds! Chris
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Hello there you wonderful bunch of people! Here is a link to a FREE / PUBLIC post on Patreon, where you can download PDF documents about doing this job: www.patreon.com/posts/23183271 Thank you very much for watching, if you want us to keep making videos you can join our 🌟Patreon Crew🌟 for as little as $1 per month, to help us keep making videos. Otherwise, give this video a thumbs up and share it somewhere: on a forum, Facebook, Reddit, Twitter, email a mate, whatever you like - just share it! YOU can help us grow and give us the incentive to keep making videos. Thank you! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
what size it your boat? lenght, beam, standing room? cheers
@@Kampup Hi there, it's a Bavaria 350: sailboatdata.com/sailboat/bavaria-350 Cheers, Chris 👍
Just about to replace my rubber seal myself from my Volvo motor. This is the first video that I found to show from start to finish. Thank you so much for a great video.
My pleasure Andrew, I hope it all goes smoothly for you! Chris 👍
By far, one of the best hands-on-diy videos out there. Honest, detailed, no stock-media look-a-like. Thanks for the work and keep it up!
Thank you Marcos! Cheers, Chris 👍
I know my gratitude doesn't pay the bills, but I am really thankful for the work you and your family does to include us in your lives.
Hi there, we love all our viewers, especially those who take the time to comment so supportively. We're sure that in time we will be able to grow our Patreon Crew to the point that makes our Channel financially sustainable, and any of our viewers who share our videos help us achieve this. If you would take the time to share this video then we would be immensely grateful. Fair winds! Chris, Rossella & Emma 🙂
Great work well done. Lovely to watch a REAL replacement instead of a bench type demonstration
Thank you Sean 👍
What a wonderful service you've done for do-it-yourselfers out there
Hi Dan, we love helping people and we know how useful it would have been for us to see a video like this before we did this job! Fair winds, Chris, Rossella & Emma 😊
You are a loving dad and husband and I love to see you interact with your precious baby. You have a great family and look forward to more videos of your journey.
Thank you Richard! Children are such a blessing and their natural joy and love for the world can teach us adults a lot about life... Welcome aboard and fair winds! Chris 😊
Good on you Chris, many thanks for sharing your experience and efforts. You’ve done a lot of boat owners a great service. Well done !!
My pleasure Nick, I'm very happy to help other boat owners. God bless and fair winds, Chris 👍
Done! Oh my, it was some work. Definitely not a one mad job for me, there was some heavy lifting involved... but a 2-man 3-days job. Your video was invaluably helpful and saved us so much trouble. Cheers!
🙏👍
you give clear instructioins as to what you are doing in each job....the sign of a good military man...thanks for your service.
Thank you Jeff. Chris 👍
Another brilliant demonstration, thanks for those small details, and for including the locking wire oversight. When you considered applying heat to the aluminum housing to get the sea cock off, I remembered a few disasters I've had doing automotive repair through the years. Heat and aluminum don't go so well, I've stripped out aluminum threads frozen to steel bolts more than once.
Hi there, that is a great compliment coming from you, thank you! I was being careful with the Aluminium as it is delicate. If things had gone wrong a helicoil could have been an option, but I had enough on my plate already whilst filming this, so fortunately that wasn't needed. :-) Comments on TH-cam are fantastic as it give the world a chance to peer review videos like this for the benefit of everyone, so thank you for taking the time to share your opinion. Cheers, Chris 👍
Hello From Nova Scotia! I have a 110s that needs doing and have been putting off due to the daunting nature of it. This is just so invaluable, and gives my confidence to do this a huge boost. For all their detractors, my md7a with sail drive has never let us down and gives incredible fuel economy. I owe her some TLC. Many, many thanks.
Hi Curtis, and hello to beautiful Canada! (I adore Canada and imagine Nova Scotia must be a fantastic place to sail) I'm very glad to hear that this video will help you look after your saildrive. We love helping people so it's very satisfying to get comments like this. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great vid !!thanks ! wish I was there to give you a hand……….no head banging music,no dropped cameras,thanks aguain !
Watching this makes me happy I don't have a saildrive. Great job keeping the video family friendly. I would have taken the opportunity to get some line cutters installed. Fair winds Chris & family.
😂 We have a fishing line cutter installed - a.k.a. the 'poor man's line cutter'! Cheers, Chris, Ro & Emma 👍
Very well presented and timely as I am going to inspect a 39 year old 27 foot boat for purchase which has a saildrive unit. I now have a few more things to look for and a few more questions to ask of the owner. While I most likely would not try a renovation, as you have done, I now can appreciate the work required if I have it done by a ship engineering company. Thanks again.
Great video on the DIY saildrive diaphragm replacement...perfect level of detail and nice to see you and your family included.
Thank you! Chris 👍
Hi great detail. You make this look simple, but in reality this is highly skilled, with some great improvisation. Thanks
One of the best, that is to say thorough, clear and well explained, "how to" sailboat maintenance videos I've seen. Well done and thank you. Happy sails!
Thank you!!! I am currently working up the courage to get into this job and I feel so much better after watching this excellent walk through. Again, thank you so much for making this video!
You're very welcome Erik. Good luck with the job! 👍
Brilliant work and thanks for sharing your mechanical knowledge.
I did my saildrive 7 years ago so our Bavaria 36 is due a change again this year. Like Chris I am a retired RAF aircraft engineer and well taught in the useful skills for this job (although my experience of aircraft is probably a couple of generations before Chris's!) But this video is a useful reminder of the sequence and pitfalls of the operation. The Bavaria does not have such good access as his boat but I was able to remove our engine completely which made life easier although it did involve disconnecting the engine entirely with the subsequent necessary reconnections and engine bleeding etc.
Hi there, thank you for watching & commenting. I'm sure it will be a lot easier for you this next time round as you've already done the job once. I couldn't find any videos like this out there before I did ours, so I hope that this will be of value to other boat owners who like to do their own boat work. I personally believe that the trade training at Cosford (or Halton as I believe it was before) is amongst the best in the world. I have certainly never seen anything anywhere near as professional anywhere in the commercial world, despite working for a variety of oil & gas companies with vast budgets. Fair winds! Chris 👍
Biggles One I was at Halton back in 1960 aged 15 on a 3-year apprenticeship. I worked on a whole host of aircraft, now all obsolete! I took up sailing in Gib where we lived next to the Sailing Club on the harbour (now filled in). As you say the RAF Training was second to none and set me up with long lasting skills which I am using sixty years on. Good luck with your project and hope that you and your young family have a great sailing adventure.
Very nice work! I have been doing this a couple of times, when I was working in a small boat workshop in Gothenburg, Sweden.
I saw some things that should be adressed sometimes in the future: 1) Control wires are brown = very old and often rusty inside the shield. They tend to break exactly in the middle of a maneuver. I would recommend new low friction wires. They are often black nowadays 2) When you have the shock absorbers loose, consider get a new pair. If they are 26 years old as well, the rubber often separates from the steel and then they do no good. 3) The fuel hose was reinforced plastic hose, that get extremely stiff by the diesel oil. It should be replaced by a oil resistent rubber hose, preferable of a type that don't generate static electricity.
You have a very good engine, VP 2003, but unfortunately the spare parts are discontinued by Volvo Penta. So take good care of it, never overheat it and change the oil one time too often, it's never wrong to have clean oil, whatever the instruction manual or your boat neighbor says. At least once a year despite running time.
Hi Patrick, thank you for watching and commenting with your intelligent observations. I was aware of the fuel hose before I bought the boat and at the time of filming this video I had already bought the replacement. A proper diesel-greade fuel hose has now been fitted (it's in one of our more recent videos). Thanks again for commenting, which helps any other viewers reading this, as well as us. Fair winds! Chris 👍 (plus Rossella & Emma 🙂)
Thanks for sharing your experiences in the servicing and maintenance of your yacht. Having just found your video channel I’m catching up with your videos. Thank guys and as for Admiral Emma for supervising the work.🏴⛵️
This was another great video from you Chris. It's one thing doing all the work it's another thing editing it all. Well done.
The editing on this was a killer. Once I had finished this monster I had about 10 or 15 failed exporting attempts and in the end I had to reduce the quality to 720p to get the video file without glitches. So many hours... I hope this helps people! Fair winds, Chris 👍
Chris, Just like to add my gratitude to the rest. A very real demonstration of work on a boat in a confined space. I'm about to embark on this task and there is a lot of very useful stuff here. Thank you
You are such an inspiration! Many thanks
Thank you! Don't forget to subscribe 😉 Chris 👍
Learned a lot, and got my Emma fix. I'm good!
Thank you Mike! 👍
thank you very much for these and wish happy long years for little cute emma
Great job you've done and you should be proud of your self. Only one thing for next time when you put back steel bolts under sea level always deep them in marine grade grease first so next time they will come off easily and reduces galvanic corrosion too. I have worked with outboards for some time professionally and instructions are clear about using grease to every bolt except those that are on the engine like head bolts.
Greetings from Greece and thank you.
You wait for ever for a Volvo penta sail drive replacement video then two come along at once. Thanks Chris for your take on the procedure. #spiffy
😂 Cheers Matthew! 👍
Great
Work mate
Very practical good engineering mate!
That thing will last forever because you've done a great job.
I've had a boatyard do the same job and leaked straight away and they said it's fine and normal to leak (until the oysters grow and stop the leak that is)
So you have aced it really good work .
Thank you John! 👍
Just found your channel and immediately subscribed. Top notch work mate! Very well documented and organized. You will be both an inspiration and a HUGE help to me - a first time boat owner (Lippincott 30 with OCM Zepher sail drive made in the USA). Best of luck.
I wish I had seen this in February, just before I changed mine. It would have been a great help, especially as I didn't know what I as going to come across & needed to have everything to hand before I started.
This would have been a very helpful video. Hope you had a good year on the water.
Shame you missed this but I’m glad you got yours done. It would definitely be a lot easier the second time round as, like any job, you learn best by doing. Fair winds mate, Chris 👍
Great video 👏. I love your practical approach finding random tools that do the task, and thorough attention to detail .
Thank you Jon, Chris
Excellent job - I, like you, prefer to do things myself - I think it is unlikely that another person doing this in a shop would have spent as must time and care making sure everything was throughly cleaned before reinstalling. Yep it will take you twice if not three times as long doing it yourself but it’s worth it - and these videos are an immense help for the next DIY’er to know what they are getting into before starting a job and the shop manual never has all the information you need when the parts aren’t new and pristine. Keep up the good work!
Thank you John! 🙂
Thank you very much for taking the time to do this. We are in the process of renewing the diaphragm on our Bavaria 35. I noticed that you seemed to have solid engine mounts with no rubber bushing - ours has the original, which are rubber, and presumably take some of the loadings. The rear hole, which you had to pack out, is still circular on ours, (despite a lot of use!), and I wondered if this might be related to the fact that the rubber mounts provides some give on ours, so there is less stress on that bolt hole.
My pleasure! Our mounts do have rubber sections too, but my "stress test" was too much for the stbd one. The packing on the rear mount is still perfect. 🙏 Best regards, Chris 👍
Hello body, thanks you very much for this video, it is really awesome. I disassamble my saildrive years ago and really here you are describing very detailed all the things that you have to keep in mind when you want to do it, Again thank you very much.
My pleasure Diego! 👍
Very interesting, thanks.
BTW, I changed this seal on a friend's boat. We used the main sheet hoist to lift the engine (thru the companionway). I think its an interesting alternative to the use of wedges.
Hi Georges, that was my first choice too but the geometry was wrong on our boat and the engine would have come too far forwards (without taking the woodwork apart). This was easy enough, it probably looks harder in the video than it was in real life. Cheers, Chris
Hey there, thanks for this video and the pro tip on tying the saildrive to the keel... I just did a saildrive replacement and it was super valuable in helping me get the spline shaft of the drive aligned with the engine.
Hi John, I'm glad I could be of assistance and that the job went well for you. Cheers, Chris
Thank you for this excellent video, it helps me to understand my own engine and saildrive.
Great video guys, Even though i'll likely never change a sail drive diaphragm in my life i still found it interesting all the way through, gives me an idea how boats work :)
Great to see my Drone footage still coming in handy too :)
Emma's laugh is so funny :)
Catch up soon
Garreth
Hi Garreth! Never say never, you might own a boat with a saildrive one day... Your drone footage is excellent mate! I look forward to seeing you again soon. Cheers, Chris 👍
Complimenti....sei un temerario per fare questo lavoro tutto da solo!
Grazie Stefano, farlo e una cosa: registrarlo e un altro!... Sono aperto alle opinioni di tutto il mondo. Ci vuole piu' corraggio a metterti in piazza cosi, che a fare il lavoro. :-) Grazie, Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly Riflettevo che avresti potuto usare la drizza di randa per aiutarti a tenere il blocco motore in linea ed evitarti di fare tutta la fatica con i pali di legno per rimettere il motore in linea.
L'ho pensato anch'io, ma in realta' non era possibile perche la cima sarebbe arrivato da 1 metro in avanti dal centro di gravita' del motore. Invece di sollevarlo, lo avrebbe tirato verso la prua...
Fantastic video! Thanks from Norway!
Gunnar Haldorsen Cheers Gunnar! 👍
Nice video. I love to learn about boats. So thank you for being my teacher :D Sorry you had to run into the issues with the sail-drive (the prop and all).... But you pulled it off literary.. Well done!
Thank you Bjørn! If you know anyone else who might appreciate this then please share our channel with them th-cam.com/users/sailingbritaly Cheers, Chris 👍
Well informed video - well done and thank you for producing it .
Thank you Darrel 👍
Thank you for all your detailed step by step information, I'm replacing mine next month and your video is an absolute gold mine of information 👍. I'm truly thankful for your time and hard work in recording this.
SV Trigger Happy
Please Simon give me the adress of the store you will buy the elastic diaphragm, o rings ,etc. Here in Greece they do no stock old parts. My Rassy 26 haw a saildrive too, and children feel ready to be sailors...
@@ΔιονυσιοςΛαγογιαννης
Mechanical Services - Volvo Penta
Osprey Quay
19 Mereside
Portland
DT5 1PY
My pleasure Simon, good luck with the job and if you would like a hand with anything I offer one-to-one video call assistance. Cheers, Chris 👍
Great job! Love ya Emma!
Thank you Randy! Emma is our little superstar :-)
Very helpful, thank you very much! My only access point is through the engine door, so I will have to pull out the engine completely.
This is a really great video, you have a very engaging way of explaining how to do things. My sail drive seal is due to be replaced this year and we will certainly your video. Thank you so much. Fair winds to Family Britaly!
Hi Dianne, thank you very much. If you need a hand with anything I offer technical assistance by videocall. If you get stuck with something I can help you resolve it in just a few minutes: sailingbritaly.com/videocalls Cheers, Chris (plus Rossella & Emma) ⛵️👍
I really am no engineer but remember helping my Dad put a gearbox back into a car and had a real problem getting the gearbox spline to mate into the flywheel. If that makes sense did you get lucky because if the shaft didn’t align I’m not sure what you’d do. Turn the engine over by hand? You really are very talented 👍
Hi there, the main problem with this (as was seen on removal where it took a while to split the saildrive and engine) is keeping the saidrive and engine aligned - the saildrive can move around quite a lot and if it's not supported then it tends to drop down at the fwd end, this small angle of misalignment then makes it difficult for the splines to disengage (or engage on the way back in). When I was mating up the two the saildrive was held steady and at the correct height by the lines and support outside the boat, so as I lifted the engine and moved it backwards the splines were aligned. There is very little rotational resistance in the transmission and I believe the splined saildrive input shaft could be rotated by hand if necessary, however I believe that anyone who has trouble getting the engine and saildrive to mate is far more likely to be dealing with angular misalignment as outlined above, rather than rotational misalignment of the splines. Thank you! Chris 👍
Great video! Looking at your costs including the propeller it seem to be very good value. A result! Alignment of engine and splined input shaft seemed to go too easily... luck or judgement but rotating the prop shaft whilst in gear would get over any issues. Sealants and gaskets don't usually mix but you've got experience of this with your engineering history. Nice professional job, well done!
Bob Rose Hi Bob, thank you. Positioning the saildrive leg and holding it in position with lines and the stand below was judgement, manually lifting the engine up and sliding it aft straight onto the shaft was pure luck! Cheers, Chris 👍
26 years and it is in such a good shape1 THAT RELAX me a lot if I miss of some month the 7 year replacement schedule...
Hi - I changed mine last year - used a winch to drag the engine forward, rather than levering it. A tip for next time (which I expect you will have forgotten about in 7 years) Set up a Spanish windlass between the keel and the saildrive before you start and tension it - this will keep the drive level as you move the engine forward and save you from using levers on mating faces!
Hi Anthony, the mating faces were intact as I was being gentle whilst levering. As always, doing this a second time round would take half the time (or in my case less than a quarter of the time as I won't be filming it again!) I used a trucker's hitch from the keel to the saildrive in the latter part of the video to achieve the same end and it worked a treat. It literally took about 10 minutes to get the engine and drive engaged with no help from anyone. If I was to do this job again I would use the same tachnique to maintain the position of the saildrive whilst moving the engine forward by hand (In the end I found I could just manhandle it around wherever I wanted it). Cheers, Chris
I like your knowledge and techniques!
Thank you Owen!
Thanks for the exhaustive representation, I solved my problem with galvanic currents...top.-..
Damn! That thing was a real pain! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching & commenting Brock 👍
Great job as you did it as first time, and great child!! Just to know... Volvo penta recall to put 15w40 oil in SD
Nice job, your RAF training paid off. I think I would have packed silicone grease between the two seals. Dave
Thanks Dave! The fitting instructions are pretty adamant about leaving the diaphragm seal dry under the clamping ring. It's dry so I'm very happy. 👍
I wasn’t clear, I meant to say place silicon grease between the two seals on the propeller shaft. This will help lube the seal on the water side. Love your channel and supper cute baby. Dave
Very good . I heve the same problem of refrigerations with this plug .
Oh man you are awesome and i tired when i was watching. Now i'm start to think how can i do with mine! well done! You got me and will check all your vlogs. best
Welcome aboard Murat 😊
Great video and thank you for posting. While you are at it may I advise you change your brass screens in your air intake silencer on your Volvo. Over 20 years ours fatigued and then got sucked into the #1 cylinder requiring us to remove the head. We replaced with a K&N air filter with foam interior to avoid headache again.
You’re very welcome. Thank you for your advice regarding the air intake silencer - we can all learn from each other. Chris 👍
Very impressive and informative. I did learn a lot! Thanks
Cheers Karl :-) 👍
Cool video, reminds me of my days in aviation training back in 1970's
Thank you :-)
Another great video Chris. I havent got a saildrive as I am on outboards and propshafts but if I did I would be watching your video. :) for tips. A good comprehensive chapter. Had a very worrying incident once with a propshaft. Both jibsheets fell over each side of boat while underway because our charter co forgot to put figure of 8 knots on bitter end of sheets after last hire and we overlooked it...duh.... Anyway upshot was (sods law) that they both got wrapped round prop and ripped the gearbox mounting plate off the engine face, causing the prop shaft to slid down inside the outer shaft tube a few inches. Not nice at 8pm at night when the wind drops in the Med. Thankfully it didnt bend the shaft or slide and drop into the med and fill the boat and leak...!!!!. No idea what impact it would have on a saildrive leg in the bottom of boat..... so worth knowing from our mistake. Always put a stop knot in end of jib sheets if they go far enough to back of boat to be near the prop. If your ever up our way send me a ping. Fair winds David
Hi David, thank you for your comment and for sharing your experience with the jib sheet / prop encounter, it only takes a minute for a trip to go from super chilled to oh flip! Sunny Blackpool will always be "home" for me :-) Fair winds, Chris 👍
the dozen who dislike you are idiots.
You are doing us all a great service and your videos are extremely detailed. Like any aviation mechanic you are meticulous and yet as practical as a sailor.
My 84 year old neighbor asked me for help replacing his bad sail drive which I have never done before and after watching your video I was able to take it off confidently in four hours. Of coarse putting the new one on will be a different story........
Keep up the good work, cheers!
Captain Lewis Overdorp
Hi Lewis, thank you very much. Getting everything back together should be easy if you spend the time to line everything up and support/tie the saildrive in place so it can't move. Good luck! Chris
merci pour cette video instructive; on se sent un peu plus preparé a changer le joint par ns meme; cheers
Hi, I love your videos. They are very informative. I'm saving them for future reference. I like your DIY approach. I'm on the hunt for a boat myself However is quiet difficult so look at boats right due to the covid19 restrictions. I got my eyes on a Ohlson 38.
Thanks for Sharing.
Hi Luis, thank you! A lot can be done remotely, including negotiating on a boat. We have done this many times and have agreed substantial price reductions (well over 30%) from the comfort of our home. Funnily enough I'm currently launching a course on this very subject: www.boatbuyingblueprint.com Cheers, Chris
Hello .. I'am French and i don't speak very well
English , but i'have seing all this excellent vidéo. Thank's
Hi there, that is very nice to hear, merci boucoup. We will be travelling through the French canals down to the Mediterranean and we are looking forward to seeing more of your beautiful country. Fair winds, Chris 👍
Your French is better than my English. I'am from Méditerranée and my boat is in Marseille. Happy to see you in my country. @@SailingBritaly
My French is definitely not better than your English! :-) I look forward to learning some French during our trip through the canals. We are planning to enter the Med around Marseille so we will be pretty close at some point in the future... 🙂
Großes Kino - Danke
Dance schön! Chris 👍
Excellent video! Thanks for posting and explaining it all so well.
My pleasure Nick. Cheers, Chris 👍
Awesome video, really easy to follow along. 👌🏻
Thank you Carly & Dom, you guys have a great channel and will do very well indeed! Chris 👍
Sailing Britaly well as long as our family and friends can follow our travels through the videos and not get too bored watching, that'll do, anything else is a bonus.
We too have a sail drive and I have to say, judging how pristine your old one looked, I'm not going to panic too much that ours is dated 2010, although if I do find the nerve to tackle job myself, I'll be sure to bung you £50 to say thanks for the tutorial, and you can hold me to that 😁🍹
Well put together video and very informative spot on repair
Thank you! 🙏
Good job! Very didatic and profissional
Regards from Brazil
🙏
Thanks Chris!
The seal is only to control the amount of water so!
👍
Awesome video with lots of interesting information thank you for sharing
My pleasure, subscribe for more! Chris 👍
nice description professional work- Bravo
Thank you :-)
You're very calm I would be effing, beeing and ceeing throughout! Lol.
Good job, I enjoyed watching!
absolutely great great video
Bravo very good knowledge...
Hi Watching your removal of the Saildrive made me recall the old, super helpful, Haynes Manual 'instruction' - refitting is the reverse of removal! ;-)
Love those Haynes Manuals... 🙂👍
Excellent video!
Than you Anton! Chris 👍
Very good vid mate, can tell you have an engineers mind 👍
🙏
Excellent video on a job I have to do.
I’m glad this was useful Sean, buon lavoro! Chris 👍
Perfect job, thank you very much for this very detail oriented video.
I'll do the same job in August for my boat in Arabic.
By
Good luck with he job! 👍
Nice video. Job well done. Thanks
Cheers 👍
Hi there Chris fantastic Video ,watched it several times before I did the job on my boat which went very well thanks ,
one question ,you used a product called CT! to re-install the lower saildrive rubber was it successful ,did it stand the test of time ?
Hi David, thank you for your comment. Bit late now but I'll answer for the benefit of others: Yes the CT1 has worked perfectly, years down the line. Prep is key, sanding both the hull and the seal before installation. Cheers, Chris 👍
@@SailingBritaly Thanks for your reply , great Video
Excellent video.
Thank you Paul. :-)
I like your vids very useful.
Thanks John! 👍
Once again. Very informative. Thank you so very much.
I doing the same job now. Thanks to you I dare trying!
I just realized you do not use the supplied gasket at 44:38, instead you just use permatex when connecting the upper/lower part. I guess I am missing something.
Is there no need for the (green?) gasket?
Regards Karl Sitell
Very good and instructional video.
Can you help us with a complete shopping list including the o-ribgs?
Thank you for a very useful video. Only now I realized that it seemed as your prop anode was painted over with the antifoul. Hence, the anode was cut off from the water and the propeller got corroded. The kind of things that do not appear obvious until you learn by experience.
Your engine bed is a lot different than the newer ones, they don't have that deep gap behind the engine mount areas almost until you get to the flywheel.
Also - do you think that adding permatex might change the shimming needs? That will add a tiny amount of length to the transmission.
Thats number one on my to do list too but here in belgium we have to have it done by a Volvo penta mechanic otherwise the insurance won't cover anymore ... ! Will be around $1200 or so ... better have it replaced than to be sorry ! Nice work love your videos very helpfull!! new sub ;)
Welcome aboard! Wow, those are some picky insurers. We had an insurance company insist on a survey (which I did myself prior to purchase) around a year ago. Rather than pay £500 for a survey which we didn't need, we just changed insurance company to an underwriter who didn't insist on seeing a survey for the boat. This may not always be an option but sometimes 'voting with your feet' can be a good option. Britaly is in Belgium now, so there will be videos of that at some point. Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks for the great video, helped me a lot when putting together the parts after changing the seal rings!
However, when I pressed the roller bearing ring in place like you have done at 1:03:10, the shims under the ring has some millimeters of space to move around. When you knocked the bearing housing home with a hammer at 1:04:47, you actually moved the roller bearing ring some more millimeters into the bearing housing so that it squeezes the shims, like it should. If you would remove the shaft and bearing housing again, you would see that there is some millimeters between the roller bearing ring and the edge of the bearing housing. If you removed the shaft and bearing housing again, you could easily put it back without using a hammer.
I'm not trying to point at any errors, because you did nothing wrong, however, I spent some hours trying to figure out if I lost some shims and hope this comment will save someone else's time.
A method to get the sail drive lined up to the housing is really long bolts. Then swap them out for the correct bolts as you line it up.
Very nice work, especially good documentation! We want to do the same thing on our boat this winter and change the platic valve as well. Can you tell us the diameter of the thread in the aluminium gear part? Would be a great help for preparation! Also there are boats like ours, where the saildrive goes throught a very needly hole in the hull without any rubber seal at the bottom, so we can´t get the bottom part of the saildrive out of the hull that easy. I think the bottom part can in this case stay in the boat, we have only lift it enought to reach the screws. Thank you for the great content! Greetings from germany!
Hi Tom, danke for the feedback! :-) The seacock thread is 1/2" and we bought ours here: www.yachtboatparts.com/volvo-penta-saildrive-sea-cock-seacock-bronzedzr-7204-p.asp I'm not sure I understand what you mean about the saildrive on your boat: if you want to replace the saildrive diaphragm seal then you need to split the leg. Let me know if I can be of further assistance when you do the job. 😉 Cheers, Chris 👍
Thanks a lot for your help! At first I want to buy theese new Valve and fittings here in germany, but now we see the cheep prices you sem to get in england. Do you know a shop where we can get also t-parts and other fittings? With our installation on the boat, after splitting the saildrive leg, the bottom part will still stay in the hull, because the gearbox down at the propeller ist to wide to fit throght the hole in the hull. So my plan is to lift the saildrive up as much as possible, fix it in this position an then seperate the two leg parts in the boat. In this video you can see the small hole in the hull th-cam.com/video/U32xxY1eFX8/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Hi Tom, that's an unusual setup which makes me wonder how they got the leg in there in the first place! (There must have been a larger opening which has since been filled and faired) ASAP supplies were good for us www.asap-supplies.com/ but I believe SVB can be good for certain things www.svb.de (and expensive for others) We always shop around whenever we buy things because prices can vary a lot and different suppliers can often be competitive for different things. Happy fixing! Chris 👍
Hi, @@SailingBritaly , I think the got the leg in and laminate a plate around the bottom hole to get it very smooth. Thank you a lot for your help, we love your project!
Hi Chris, not sure if possible on your boat but we put a tackle on our boom to lift the engine out of her bay.
The tackle takes the weight and you can concentrate on positioning. might be an option for future engine/saildrive jobs.
Hi there, yes that was the first thing I looked at but on our boat the lifting point would have pulled the engine forward about a metre, so this wasn't an option for us. Levers and manhandling worked ok though. Cheers, Chris
Good lord. I didn't even know what one of these were and I'm about to buy a fairly modern but small mid 90s boat in a few months time!
Glad to be of service! Good luck with your purchase and if you need a hand with any refit work we offer one-to-one assistance via video calls. Cheers, Chris
Interesting. I have a mostly the same sail drive unit and my mechanic has recommended ditching the raw water inlet completely and fitting an alternate thru hull at a more accessible position. The reason is mostly those mussels you found way up inside the unit. Apparently fine while the boat is in the water but when you haul out they die. When the boat goes back in the remains migrate and cause a nasty surprise as you head off on your passage with your nice clean bottom. So good plan to fit the backup supply.
Hi Simon, yes I was surprised to see such large mussels up so high, they obviously enter when tiny and then grow in-situ! We are happy to have the backup cooling water supply. It's like a cooling water insurance policy :-) Fair winds! Chris