Delboy, your videos have inspired me at 60 yrs old to purchase a 1999 ZZR 1100 Total refurb required but i will follow your videos and hopefully bring it back to life. Keep up the great vids.
Hi Andrew, Thanks great news my friend, good luck with the project, and have fun with it.. its an honour to know that we have inspired your build... Keep in touch and send us some pictures aye.. Good luck.. Del.
Del maaaate, what are you on about? Shrink fitting bearings is a mechanical engineering standard method for fitting bearings. When heating the bearing or housing it is never heated up more than 150 deg c normally, it's simply not normally necessary to heat higher and in most cases 100 deg c is more than sufficient, and excessive heat could cause damage. Putting the bearing or shaft in the freezer to bring it down to -10 deg c is standard and when combining both heating and cooling when done correctly causes absolutely no damage at all, there is no thermal shock as you implied when done correctly. Heating bearings in an oil bath to nearly boiling point is standard practice in the mechanical trade and causes no damage, and is safe if done correctly, for the average bloke at home the oven at 100 deg c is fine. Another point is that a hardened drift, hammer or old bearing should never be used in contact with a bearing to drive it into place as this can cause a hairline crack in the new bearing not to mention the safety issue if the bearing or hardened drift, hammer splintered whilst being struck. A friend of mine still has a piece of steel buried in his arm 40 years later from this exact issue. He left it in to remind him of his stupidity lol, he's never forgot it. Always use a soft material when driving bearings into place such as a copper, brass or aluminium hammer/drift, much safer and ensures no damage to the bearing or bruising to the shaft or housing.
Del, you star! I was working on my rear wheel bearings but didn't have a big enough socket to use as a drift. Tried the old bearing but it was getting stuck. Then I remembered this video. I cut the outer race on the old bearing, removed the inner and, hey presto, I had a reusable bearing drift. Cheers for that. Sorted!
Hi Maurice, most welcome indeed, these little nuggets of knowledge rattle round the bike community for years and will serve us forever more, so pass it on wherever you can, little tricks like this are gold!
I replaced my head stock bearings this week thanks to your video, my 2 bikes before the CBR I paid a fortune for a garage to do it. You have truly saved me hundreds of pounds my friends and for that I am truly grateful 👍🏼🙏🏼
Nicely done. Good to do the roller conversion. I hat ball head stock adjustments. Just when you think you have it the bike wanders and hunts when riding, then back to the garage GAH! Good rainy day entertainment :-)
Did my head bearings yesterday ,thanks to your vids it was relatively easy! Hardest part was removing the old outer cups in the headstock but sorted many thanks to you Del Dave
Last night a took out my head Stock bearings at my Ducati 900ss. I had to wate for New parts, the video helped a lot to do the job. I needed a grinder to get rid of the lower bearing.
Hello my friend!!! 😁 I was very bussy with a lot of work this weekend Bit if i have been watching the chapters 😃 And like always....Gorgeous Job!!! Keep pending and see on next one Regards and best wishes 👍
Again, top job, I used to do a lot of my own repairs, but I hadn’t done any spannering for years, I wanted my 750 Suzuki restored, & was gonna pay for it to be done, when he gave me a price at £6k, I started doing it myself & I’ve thoroughly enjoyed it,
Moonfleet41 for me to get all the powder coating, wheels rebuilt,and a few other bits, it hasn’t even cost me half, problem is that I’ve got the bug again & bought another project ,love the work on the channel, & keep up the good work
@@bluehazeboy It is an incurable addiction brother.. i feel your pain.. i usually find myself buying the next donor bike before ive even finished the last build..lol!
Thank you so much for making this video I am about to build a busa and needed a real understand of how to put everything in detail together cause at the end of the day that is my life on that bike so I meet to make sure everything is tight
You are most welcome Harold, it's great to hear you're building a Busa, what a cool project, have fun with it, take care and ride safe Brother.. let me know how you get on. Del.
I wish your neato little workshop was close to me - I have enough work to keep you busy '365-days' a year (HA - the occasional day off). CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Another nice tip about putting the new bearing on, thank you Del, that's so simple and handy. Your tip and the one about the piece of tubing goes together like peanut butter and jam =P Again it's really cool to see how something is taken apart then put back together properly. And what you said about finding that sweet spot by feel on the forks is proper old school mechanics talk, it's lovely to hear that again. Thanks. Wicked message on the board.
Thank you Sir, glad you appreciate it... it seems there's a formula for everything these days and people have become utterly reliant on manuals, despite all the previous reputations of various advice in manuals, they seem unable to work out solutions for themselves, even when it's just based on common sense... always keep the old skills aye?!
Hey Del i dont care how many times you do videos on replacing bearings brakes or any fluid change i love watchi g them over and over good educational videos love the content you and Penny do love you guys for taking time to teach and share your knowledgeable ideasthanks so much keep the videos coming
Hey Chris, thank you so much for those kind words, it's much appreciated, we do take time to make sure the subject is covered and we've been working harder on the editing than ever, but it's great to know that it's showing! Really appreciate your kind support, knowing that makes all the work worthwhile... cheers and have a great week yourself, D&Px
Great work Del Boy. I work in the cryogenic industry where machinery rotates unto 50000rpm and we therefore heavily rely on critical tolerances and correct interference fit of bearings. We very often cryo-cool bearings to allow them to be installed without damaging the housing in which they sit, but as you correctly point out, the material of manufacture needs to be correct to ensure there isn’t a detrimental impact on the integrity of the bearing. So spot on dear chap as per usual.... keep the great vids a comic’ 😁👏
Thank you Graham, its an honour to have approval from the professionals.. im just using common sense in the best interest of keeping things safe i guess... Thanks for taking the time to write.. all the best. .Del.
M Bourne in some cases we do do both because the shrink isn’t enough from the cold. So in some cases we’ll also use an induction heater, but only in rare instances
Another cracking video mate, the way you explain things and come across is a novice bike builders dream, here`s one for your board Del, " Be there for Others but never leave Yourself Behind". Have a great weekend, ride safe.
Your videos always give me confidence when trying new repairs. Just finished the headstock bearings on my 96 Vulcan. Referenced your old video as this one wasnt out yet. Great work as usual.
Brilliant video, i'm changing the roller bearings in my 125 for tapered. When I originally removed them one or two were actually missing. Fork stantions are going to be interesting, I need to learn how to do them as I have two sets to be done.
Just found your channel while looking for info on steering bearings replacement for my Honda CB 500X... Very informative / well done! Thank you. Subscribed... ✌️
Great video my friend, I have a Yamaha roadstar, it has about 19.500 miles on her, I need to repack the bearings but if I take the whole thing apart better just replace it, like you said this job even though people says is easy it kind of scares the hell out me.
I used your street fighter video to show me how to change the head stock bearings on my vfr and it works a treat, thanks for the reminder though, another great video.
Nice one Del. Well explained, updated version of a trusty old video. A job I've to do after our holidays. Awrabesht to you both bro from me and the clan. 😉💙🤘
Dude your videos are awesome. I am getting ready to take this on for a Suzuki Marauder. I think you have another video on steering bearings that I have watched. Thank you so much for sharing. 💪
S'funny. We were talking about bearings in the freezer just a few vids back - thanks for that detailed explanation. All Balls. Been using them since I recommissioned the viffer 5yrs ago. No complaints there. All the best... :o)
Great vid, Del. That, Sir, was not donkey’s work (as you called it) for someone like me... more like wizard’s work! Nicely done. This ‘Busa is looking like another ship of Theseus...! You certainly are taking pains to replace what needs to be replaced. Regards from Hong Kong- heading to Tokyo and then home on the weekend for some quality time in the garage! Woop woop! Have a great weekend, both of you!
Hi Gary, ah well, basic nut and bolt stuff i guess, just a matter of working clean and methodical aye.... Envious as ever, Globe trotting must make the world feel like a smaller place than it is aye... Safe travels sir, and have fun in the garage when you return... keep in touch.. D&Px
Very well explained. You would think that if there is not much price difference between OEM and tapered rollers that manufacturers would go for the better option.I liken it to the crappy seat most bikes come with. It would cost no more to make a decent OEM seat than it does to make a good aftermarket seat.
Greetings from Germany: I don´t agree on your comment with temperature changes causing a problem. surely, no-one wants to superheat parts. there are several more soft methods to make that an easy work. check out engine production vids of e.g. BMW. they use the supercool method to insert the shafts for engine valves into Boxer engines. also there are other vids here, ie. ZAMSCHANNEL, using the method of cooling down the bearings and then insert it.
love your videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Quick question, how big is your garage when completely empty? I'm looking for a place myself. Cheers!
Sweet technique right there Del. I was rather surprised that you didn't turn a bearing bar from a length of pipe. With the lathe right behind you the whole time. But that would have prevented the whole point of using the old race as a tool. Great idea! I must say. I do A-LOT of cryo-fit (solid bearing) installations. Mostly Stainless steel bushings into aluminum. Using interference fit. At work we a use liquid nitrogen bath to freeze the bushings (over-night) Then press fit into room temperature aluminum. It works every time. I agree, heating the receiving component could cause catastrophic results! No doubt a home freezer will not shrink the steel enough to be of any use. Dry ice overnight, perhaps. Just my 2 cents.
Hi Scott, wise words indeed Sir, and a very good point well made regarding the pointlessness of bearings in the freezer, it'd be an interesting experiment to measure just how much one shrinks by in a domestic freezer (if at all that is), it could be that the heating side of things (for those who do it) is actually expanding the receiving hole and that the bearing itself is no smaller... I guess cryo-freeing is another matter, because I guess if bearings would shrink at domestic freezer temperatures, then come the winter, all your bearings would fall out lol .... We got your email, just heading off to work now, so will make an accurate measurement this evening when I get home and send you the details!... chat later, cheers, Del
@bandr Our work instructions normally call for a 4 hour bath minimum (on hardened stainless steel, much less on bronze or alum/alloy). We usually make the bushings for each job, then toss the lot into the dewer before going home for the day. (often multiple sizes in one job). Then the bushings are wet installed the following morning. We use a two part epoxy primer to fill any microscopic voids. Please bear in mind, this application is not for motorcycle or automotive use. What i'm describing is for use on aircraft.My point is in agreement with Del, a home freezer is not nearly cold enough to provide satisfactory results.
@@Moonfleet41 We usually get a shrink rate of approximately 0.0005" to 0.0008" on 1" diameter Hardened 17-4 ph stainless in Nitrogen. So its not really enough to bother with in the "real world". I work with some ridicules dimensions . Its just the nature of the beast with aviation engineers.
@bandr A higher shrink rate can easily be achieved with softer metals as in bronze, copper, brass and aluminum and their compounds. I normally work with 17-4 heat treated stainless. resulting in about 1/2 tenth (0.0005) to 8/ tenths (0.0008) shrinkage. I have yet to see hardened 17-4 shrink by a 0.001, using 1.000" Diameter bushing. Yes more can be achieved based upon the diameter of the bushing. I just used the 1" as an example.
Just thought I would throw my two cents in. I have been a bike mechanic for 10 years now and in my experience tapered bearing wear out a lot quicker than caged balls. The needles wear long groves into the race. On correctly greased ball bearings I have yet to see these problems quite as bad. All you seem to have on they ones are corrosion, they are probably as old as the bike and are properly worn out. If I put my money where my mouth is I bet those tapered bearing will not last half the time. Anyway keep up the good work
Great video would of not attempted without it.Ive sent frame off to get powdercoated do I need to clean inside of headstock where its been sprayed or can I just tap new bearings in Thanks
Hi mate, thanks for the feedback, when your frame comes back, you just need to make sure that the inside rim where the new bearing cups will sit are free from any paint or debris so you can drift them into a nice clear seat. , and the same goes for the top face that the top yoke covers.. Hope that helps you mate.. good luck with it.. del.
Hi del! Thanks again for another Brill vid, just on your socket sizes you mention how the 32mm was a bit sloppy and the inch/quarter fitted much better, I found when stripping down my forks on my fireblade my metric spanners were the same, felt like they were half a mil to big sometimes this making some of the nuts look a bit of a mess, do you find imperial spanner/ socket sizes generally work better on Japanese bikes. Thanks john.
No John, not really, it's just that some fasteners, specially if they're a little worn, the imperial closest equivalent, if it's a fraction smaller, will give you a more snug fit... but typically, it's best to use the appropriate size socket for the fastener and flank drive if you can so it pushes on the flats not the corners.
Thanks del, just wanted to say I have been messaging you know since 2013 when I first got my zx9 and I've always had great replys from you, I've not had much time to spend watching videos over the last 12 months but I've recently became aware of this workshop guy mocking you all the time, I watched some of his videos because I wanted to know what his problem was, anyway I find it quite sad the man has nothing better to do with his time, it's like he's obsessed with you, he mentioned in one video you asked to talk to him over the phone to sort it out like adults and he wouldn't, if he's going to mock you so much he should be man enough to at least pick up the phone to you, anyway enough of him, keep up the great videos and thanks for your help over the years again👍
On my Z1000, I used a piece of pipe from Loew's. It's labeled 'Structural Pipe SCH 30 not for plumbing 1 1/4inch by 24inch. It's the perfect size and length, at least for my application. Rubber mallet, seated two taps.
What drive was that ratchet Del half inch, you used with the inch and a quarter socket? And what what drive socket set do you use in your garage the most including torque wrench drive and measurement range at this present time as your bread and butter? Thanks Del x
Hi Del, you mentioned about replacing your fork stantions at the beginning of this video, just wondered is there a good aftermarket brand you would recommend as I need to replace mine on my zx7, many thanks john👍👍
Hi Del, when reassmbing the top yoke is it just a case of lining up the holes with the bottom yoke holes then tightening up the stem nut? I know you leave the forks out cos you have further work to do but should I put the forks back in before I tighten up the stem nut to make sure the yokes are perfectly aligned, thanks john.
Hi John, yes exactly, that's the correct way to do it... if you want really crisp alignment once it's all reassembled, leave the top yoke loose once you've set the bearing tension, so the top yoke swivels about on it's own, slip both forks through the bottom yoke and then the top yoke too, but firstly nip up the pinch bolts on the bottom yoke, this will hold the forks perfectly aligned, then when you do up the top yoke, do the pinch bolts up first, this will align the angle of the tp yoke perfectly to the forks.... THEN, do up the top centre nut last. This will mean everything is in perfect alignment... hope that helps mate, good luck, Del
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Delboy, your videos have inspired me at 60 yrs old to purchase a 1999 ZZR 1100 Total refurb required but i will follow your videos and hopefully bring it back to life. Keep up the great vids.
Hi Andrew, Thanks great news my friend, good luck with the project, and have fun with it.. its an honour to know that we have inspired your build... Keep in touch and send us some pictures aye.. Good luck.. Del.
Del maaaate, what are you on about? Shrink fitting bearings is a mechanical engineering standard method for fitting bearings. When heating the bearing or housing it is never heated up more than 150 deg c normally, it's simply not normally necessary to heat higher and in most cases 100 deg c is more than sufficient, and excessive heat could cause damage. Putting the bearing or shaft in the freezer to bring it down to -10 deg c is standard and when combining both heating and cooling when done correctly causes absolutely no damage at all, there is no thermal shock as you implied when done correctly. Heating bearings in an oil bath to nearly boiling point is standard practice in the mechanical trade and causes no damage, and is safe if done correctly, for the average bloke at home the oven at 100 deg c is fine. Another point is that a hardened drift, hammer or old bearing should never be used in contact with a bearing to drive it into place as this can cause a hairline crack in the new bearing not to mention the safety issue if the bearing or hardened drift, hammer splintered whilst being struck. A friend of mine still has a piece of steel buried in his arm 40 years later from this exact issue. He left it in to remind him of his stupidity lol, he's never forgot it. Always use a soft material when driving bearings into place such as a copper, brass or aluminium hammer/drift, much safer and ensures no damage to the bearing or bruising to the shaft or housing.
Del, you star! I was working on my rear wheel bearings but didn't have a big enough socket to use as a drift. Tried the old bearing but it was getting stuck. Then I remembered this video. I cut the outer race on the old bearing, removed the inner and, hey presto, I had a reusable bearing drift. Cheers for that. Sorted!
Hi Maurice, most welcome indeed, these little nuggets of knowledge rattle round the bike community for years and will serve us forever more, so pass it on wherever you can, little tricks like this are gold!
I replaced my head stock bearings this week thanks to your video, my 2 bikes before the CBR I paid a fortune for a garage to do it. You have truly saved me hundreds of pounds my friends and for that I am truly grateful 👍🏼🙏🏼
Nicely done. Good to do the roller conversion. I hat ball head stock adjustments. Just when you think you have it the bike wanders and hunts when riding, then back to the garage GAH!
Good rainy day entertainment :-)
Too right Darren, i made a brief point that they are challenging to set up.. but in reality, they can be a total nightmare as you know..!
Woohoo. I start going into withdrawal symptoms at about 2 days with no new Busa video.... Thanks.
😂😂💯
Did my head bearings yesterday ,thanks to your vids it was relatively easy! Hardest part was removing the old outer cups in the headstock but sorted many thanks to you Del Dave
Glad it helped Dave. that is always the hardest part... but glad you got it done, makes you feel proud to achieve it aye. !
Last night a took out my head Stock bearings at my Ducati 900ss. I had to wate for New parts, the video helped a lot to do the job. I needed a grinder to get rid of the lower bearing.
Hello my friend!!! 😁
I was very bussy with a lot of work this weekend
Bit if i have been watching the chapters 😃
And like always....Gorgeous Job!!!
Keep pending and see on next one
Regards and best wishes 👍
Thanks David, glad you've been able to catch up, but don't work too hard lol,,, have a great week, enjoy the sunshine, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 exellent suggestion!!!! 😃
Equally my friend
Thank you very much!!!✌😎
Again, top job, I used to do a lot of my own repairs, but I hadn’t done any spannering for years, I wanted my 750 Suzuki restored, & was gonna pay for it to be done, when he gave me a price at £6k, I started doing it myself & I’ve thoroughly enjoyed it,
Yeah, i find that prices can be a great motivator aye..!
Moonfleet41 for me to get all the powder coating, wheels rebuilt,and a few other bits, it hasn’t even cost me half, problem is that I’ve got the bug again & bought another project ,love the work on the channel, & keep up the good work
@@bluehazeboy It is an incurable addiction brother.. i feel your pain.. i usually find myself buying the next donor bike before ive even finished the last build..lol!
Thank you so much for making this video I am about to build a busa and needed a real understand of how to put everything in detail together cause at the end of the day that is my life on that bike so I meet to make sure everything is tight
You are most welcome Harold, it's great to hear you're building a Busa, what a cool project, have fun with it, take care and ride safe Brother.. let me know how you get on. Del.
Love finding a build series long after they have been completed so I can binge watch the whole series 😍 so far really loving it.
I wish your neato little workshop was close to me - I have enough work to keep you busy '365-days' a year (HA - the occasional day off). CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
Another nice tip about putting the new bearing on, thank you Del, that's so simple and handy. Your tip and the one about the piece of tubing goes together like peanut butter and jam =P
Again it's really cool to see how something is taken apart then put back together properly. And what you said about finding that sweet spot by feel on the forks is proper old school mechanics talk, it's lovely to hear that again. Thanks. Wicked message on the board.
Thank you Sir, glad you appreciate it... it seems there's a formula for everything these days and people have become utterly reliant on manuals, despite all the previous reputations of various advice in manuals, they seem unable to work out solutions for themselves, even when it's just based on common sense... always keep the old skills aye?!
This is a really great instruction to follow step by step. Excellent work.
Hey Del i dont care how many times you do videos on replacing bearings brakes or any fluid change i love watchi g them over and over good educational videos love the content you and Penny do love you guys for taking time to teach and share your knowledgeable ideasthanks so much keep the videos coming
Hey Chris, thank you so much for those kind words, it's much appreciated, we do take time to make sure the subject is covered and we've been working harder on the editing than ever, but it's great to know that it's showing! Really appreciate your kind support, knowing that makes all the work worthwhile... cheers and have a great week yourself, D&Px
Mechanic people will hate us lol thanks bro I learn something 😁
Great work Del Boy. I work in the cryogenic industry where machinery rotates unto 50000rpm and we therefore heavily rely on critical tolerances and correct interference fit of bearings. We very often cryo-cool bearings to allow them to be installed without damaging the housing in which they sit, but as you correctly point out, the material of manufacture needs to be correct to ensure there isn’t a detrimental impact on the integrity of the bearing. So spot on dear chap as per usual.... keep the great vids a comic’ 😁👏
Thank you Graham, its an honour to have approval from the professionals.. im just using common sense in the best interest of keeping things safe i guess... Thanks for taking the time to write.. all the best. .Del.
Thats why you only do one or the other Heat or cool not both
I think you’re doing yourself an injustice dear chap. Your knowledge is immense, and I for one am learning huge amounts from you.....so thank you
M Bourne in some cases we do do both because the shrink isn’t enough from the cold. So in some cases we’ll also use an induction heater, but only in rare instances
Another cracking video mate, the way you explain things and come across is a novice bike builders dream, here`s one for your board Del, " Be there for Others but never leave Yourself Behind". Have a great weekend, ride safe.
Thanks buddy.. i like that one, i may even use that one in the next video... true words well said.. and im glad you enjoy the videos.
Just hoped this was out today and woop up it pops on my screen ! Great cuppa time and watch that busa getting ready for 200mph again
Because of your great video, I feel confident to tackle this job on my 09 Yamaha road Star. Thank you
Glad I could help Ralph, good luck with the job, and remember to enjoy the process and have fun!
Your videos always give me confidence when trying new repairs. Just finished the headstock bearings on my 96 Vulcan. Referenced your old video as this one wasnt out yet. Great work as usual.
Thanks Del, im doing my headstock bearings this week, im revamping my 99 gen 1 everything i need to know is here, thanks mate
👍 Glad it helps buddy, enjoy your projects!
Brilliant video, i'm changing the roller bearings in my 125 for tapered. When I originally removed them one or two were actually missing.
Fork stantions are going to be interesting, I need to learn how to do them as I have two sets to be done.
Love seeing the guts of a bike, especially when Del is doing the work! 😁
Hi Harold, Thank you for your kind support my friend, Glad you enjoy the content sir.
Thanks for these videos. I'm following along on my 78 gl1000, and the how-to aspect has been invaluable.
Thanks del just done my r1 bearings thanks to your channel they came out a treat
No problem 👍 glad it helped you mate.
Just found your channel while looking for info on steering bearings replacement for my Honda CB 500X... Very informative / well done! Thank you. Subscribed... ✌️
Welcome aboard Jon, and thank you for your support, I hope the bearing replacement went well!
Awesome video, love your tricks of the trade and your little secrets. Penny and U Del ridesafely and have a wonderful week.
Thank you Paul, good to hear from you as ever.
I learned again! Thank you!
Great video my friend, I have a Yamaha roadstar, it has about 19.500 miles on her, I need to repack the bearings but if I take the whole thing apart better just replace it, like you said this job even though people says is easy it kind of scares the hell out me.
I used your street fighter video to show me how to change the head stock bearings on my vfr and it works a treat, thanks for the reminder though, another great video.
Normally watching at home in Australia, today watching in Scotland.
Nice one Del. Well explained, updated version of a trusty old video. A job I've to do after our holidays. Awrabesht to you both bro from me and the clan. 😉💙🤘
Very nicely done, crew. Thanks for the informative video!
REALLY ENJOYED this one, Del .... "Thanks" for all the great tips, sir !!!!
i never stop being captivated with your video's ! alway's learn new thing's better than a hayne's manual lol
Watched the zx7 vid yesterday and this one is a lot easier on the eye. You have come on so mucn in the way you put things across. Another good un!
Thank you Sir, that's very kind, I guess with practice all things improve!
Good stuff! Looks like a lot of this series applies to many bikes.
Fanatic job, thanks for sharing.
Excelente, aos poucos vai ficar zera......acompanahando.......
Yet another super useful video, Del, thanks so much my friend. Lots of useful tips and guidance that helps all of us. Well done on this job!
Massive thanks to you. Superbly educational content.
Most welcome my friend, glad you enjoy the videos..
Dude your videos are awesome. I am getting ready to take this on for a Suzuki Marauder. I think you have another video on steering bearings that I have watched.
Thank you so much for sharing.
💪
Most welcome Sir, glad the video can help you, good luck with your task, hope it goes smoothly for you!
S'funny. We were talking about bearings in the freezer just a few vids back - thanks for that detailed explanation.
All Balls. Been using them since I recommissioned the viffer 5yrs ago. No complaints there. All the best... :o)
Let's start the fabrication already! Come on del, great job with the bearing changes. Let's start the fab!. Thanks 😊
Great vid, Del. That, Sir, was not donkey’s work (as you called it) for someone like me... more like wizard’s work! Nicely done. This ‘Busa is looking like another ship of Theseus...! You certainly are taking pains to replace what needs to be replaced. Regards from Hong Kong- heading to Tokyo and then home on the weekend for some quality time in the garage! Woop woop! Have a great weekend, both of you!
Hi Gary, ah well, basic nut and bolt stuff i guess, just a matter of
working clean and methodical aye.... Envious as ever, Globe trotting
must make the world feel like a smaller place than it is aye... Safe
travels sir, and have fun in the garage when you return... keep in
touch.. D&Px
Moonfleet41 ever the humble one, you are! 😎
Very well explained. You would think that if there is not much price difference between OEM and tapered rollers that manufacturers would go for the better option.I liken it to the crappy seat most bikes come with. It would cost no more to make a decent OEM seat than it does to make a good aftermarket seat.
Absolute quality video Del, in every way!
Thanks Martin, You're too kind mate..
Great detail there as always Del, well done bud !!
great job
Greetings from Germany: I don´t agree on your comment with temperature changes causing a problem. surely, no-one wants to superheat parts. there are several more soft methods to make that an easy work. check out engine production vids of e.g. BMW. they use the supercool method to insert the shafts for engine valves into Boxer engines. also there are other vids here, ie. ZAMSCHANNEL, using the method of cooling down the bearings and then insert it.
nice vids mate, always such clear explanation
Brilliant tips.
Cheers.
I like your videos cuz they are so detailed. I've learn everytime something new from u. Cheers
Only respect for you bro
Nice job
Evening chap did I see you using my favourite tool pipe grips 😂😂
You may well have done buddy... hope you enjoyed the weekend in the wobble box..!!
Moonfleet41 lol good lad
Yes it was a great weekend mate👍👍
thanks man i'm going to be doing mine as well here soon and you showed me alot to watch for. thanks for your video
Another great Video. Thanks Del.
Informative and perfectly executed, as always! Great job!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Brilliant advise as always Del.
love your videos, thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Quick question, how big is your garage when completely empty? I'm looking for a place myself.
Cheers!
If you search through the channel there are some videos from when he first moved in and painted it. check them out.
It more or less 20ftX10ft empty... although it doesn't seem like tat any more..lol
Tidy work Del, a mine of information 👍😎
You re King mate. .!!
Sweet technique right there Del. I was rather surprised that you didn't turn a bearing bar from a length of pipe. With the lathe right behind you the whole time. But that would have prevented the whole point of using the old race as a tool. Great idea! I must say.
I do A-LOT of cryo-fit (solid bearing) installations. Mostly Stainless steel bushings into aluminum. Using interference fit. At work we a use liquid nitrogen bath to freeze the bushings (over-night) Then press fit into room temperature aluminum. It works every time. I agree, heating the receiving component could cause catastrophic results! No doubt a home freezer will not shrink the steel enough to be of any use. Dry ice overnight, perhaps. Just my 2 cents.
Hi Scott, wise words indeed Sir, and a very good point well made regarding the pointlessness of bearings in the freezer, it'd be an interesting experiment to measure just how much one shrinks by in a domestic freezer (if at all that is), it could be that the heating side of things (for those who do it) is actually expanding the receiving hole and that the bearing itself is no smaller... I guess cryo-freeing is another matter, because I guess if bearings would shrink at domestic freezer temperatures, then come the winter, all your bearings would fall out lol .... We got your email, just heading off to work now, so will make an accurate measurement this evening when I get home and send you the details!... chat later, cheers, Del
@bandr Our work instructions normally call for a 4 hour bath minimum (on hardened stainless steel, much less on bronze or alum/alloy). We usually make the bushings for each job, then toss the lot into the dewer before going home for the day. (often multiple sizes in one job). Then the bushings are wet installed the following morning. We use a two part epoxy primer to fill any microscopic voids. Please bear in mind, this application is not for motorcycle or automotive use. What i'm describing is for use on aircraft.My point is in agreement with Del, a home freezer is not nearly cold enough to provide satisfactory results.
@@Moonfleet41 We usually get a shrink rate of approximately 0.0005" to 0.0008" on 1" diameter Hardened 17-4 ph stainless in Nitrogen. So its not really enough to bother with in the "real world". I work with some ridicules dimensions . Its just the nature of the beast with aviation engineers.
@bandr A higher shrink rate can easily be achieved with softer metals as in bronze, copper, brass and aluminum and their compounds. I normally work with 17-4 heat treated stainless. resulting in about 1/2 tenth (0.0005) to 8/ tenths (0.0008) shrinkage. I have yet to see hardened 17-4 shrink by a 0.001, using 1.000" Diameter bushing. Yes more can be achieved based upon the diameter of the bushing. I just used the 1" as an example.
@bandr I'm lazy!
Delboy, you da man!
Oh a Whistle from Me @ 9.20 mins . Thinking Pretty 'tapered' bearings 😯 .
Just thought I would throw my two cents in. I have been a bike mechanic for 10 years now and in my experience tapered bearing wear out a lot quicker than caged balls. The needles wear long groves into the race. On correctly greased ball bearings I have yet to see these problems quite as bad. All you seem to have on they ones are corrosion, they are probably as old as the bike and are properly worn out. If I put my money where my mouth is I bet those tapered bearing will not last half the time.
Anyway keep up the good work
oh yeah, good job.
Great video would of not attempted without it.Ive sent frame off to get powdercoated do I need to clean inside of headstock where its been sprayed or can I just tap new bearings in Thanks
Hi mate, thanks for the feedback, when your frame comes back, you just need to make sure that the inside rim where the new bearing cups will sit are free from any paint or debris so you can drift them into a nice clear seat. , and the same goes for the top face that the top yoke covers.. Hope that helps you mate.. good luck with it.. del.
try grease in the palm of your hand and pushing the bearing into the grease to force it up into the rollers
Good one Del, 👍👍👍.
Another nugget - if I was pushing that bearing in, I would have almost certainly been bashing the basket and trashing it.. Now I know 👍
Hi del! Thanks again for another Brill vid, just on your socket sizes you mention how the 32mm was a bit sloppy and the inch/quarter fitted much better, I found when stripping down my forks on my fireblade my metric spanners were the same, felt like they were half a mil to big sometimes this making some of the nuts look a bit of a mess, do you find imperial spanner/ socket sizes generally work better on Japanese bikes. Thanks john.
No John, not really, it's just that some fasteners, specially if they're a little worn, the imperial closest equivalent, if it's a fraction smaller, will give you a more snug fit... but typically, it's best to use the appropriate size socket for the fastener and flank drive if you can so it pushes on the flats not the corners.
Thanks del, just wanted to say I have been messaging you know since 2013 when I first got my zx9 and I've always had great replys from you, I've not had much time to spend watching videos over the last 12 months but I've recently became aware of this workshop guy mocking you all the time, I watched some of his videos because I wanted to know what his problem was, anyway I find it quite sad the man has nothing better to do with his time, it's like he's obsessed with you, he mentioned in one video you asked to talk to him over the phone to sort it out like adults and he wouldn't, if he's going to mock you so much he should be man enough to at least pick up the phone to you, anyway enough of him, keep up the great videos and thanks for your help over the years again👍
Love your work mate 👍👍👍👍👊👊👊👊👊
It’s funny how the more you take off the bike the better it looks😉👍
the mans a natural
Bit late but did anyone pick up on you not reinstalling the washer BETWEEN the nuts, you replaced it on top of both. Nice tips and good vids thanks.
On my Z1000, I used a piece of pipe from Loew's. It's labeled 'Structural Pipe SCH 30 not for plumbing 1 1/4inch by 24inch. It's the perfect size and length, at least for my application. Rubber mallet, seated two taps.
What drive was that ratchet Del half inch, you used with the inch and a quarter socket? And what what drive socket set do you use in your garage the most including torque wrench drive and measurement range at this present time as your bread and butter?
Thanks Del x
Doesn't matter how fast you are going, if you are going in the wrong direction you got problems. No such problems here. ;@)
Sir while applying front brakes ...i am feeling a play in the handle bar ...do i need to tighten the locknut ?
AAAAAAAAAHHHHH, neck bearings over here in the States. Changed them out to Timken Bearings, Nice job, have a drink on me.
I'm surprised they designed the front end with such a crappy bearing system for such a high performance bike, Good job on the upgrade!
Nice tutorial. I had a problem with your old video where you removed the lower bearing cup with a hammer, screw driver and cold chisel.
Hi Del, you mentioned about replacing your fork stantions at the beginning of this video, just wondered is there a good aftermarket brand you would recommend as I need to replace mine on my zx7, many thanks john👍👍
I got mine from Wemoto mate.! check their website, see if they list them for your bike.
good information
Another great video Del 👏👏👌🏻🤘
Good one again❤️
Thnx for the good video
Muito boa explicação. 5 Stars ✌️
A lot more harder than the other bearings!
Gute Arbeit.
Del, what tapered roller bearings did you use to replace the ball bearings?
9:29 I rewind this like five times 😂😂😂😂😂😂 that eye
Nuther good'n thanks :)
love it and informativ
Liked and subscribed 👍👍👍😁
Hi Del, when reassmbing the top yoke is it just a case of lining up the holes with the bottom yoke holes then tightening up the stem nut? I know you leave the forks out cos you have further work to do but should I put the forks back in before I tighten up the stem nut to make sure the yokes are perfectly aligned, thanks john.
Hi John, yes exactly, that's the correct way to do it... if you want really crisp alignment once it's all reassembled, leave the top yoke loose once you've set the bearing tension, so the top yoke swivels about on it's own, slip both forks through the bottom yoke and then the top yoke too, but firstly nip up the pinch bolts on the bottom yoke, this will hold the forks perfectly aligned, then when you do up the top yoke, do the pinch bolts up first, this will align the angle of the tp yoke perfectly to the forks.... THEN, do up the top centre nut last. This will mean everything is in perfect alignment... hope that helps mate, good luck, Del
@@Moonfleet41 thank u Del👍