If I may give you one tip - buy yourselves a drill, it will save so much time in unbolting, unscrewing and reattaching all the components. I bought a cheap Black and Decker one from Amazon and it’s been a lifesaver. Of course, don’t over-tighten when putting things back together (most will have variable torque settings, the lowest of which will be fine for what you’re doing), and always use a torque wrench and torque to spec anything that would be a pain to have to drill out.
Tip: because I heard you want to paint the car in the tent, maybe its better to prepare the doors, bonnet, etc outside. In this way you prevent all the dust from sanding of staying in the tent and later mess up your paint job. Great job!
A tip: Have the vehicle dipped or blasted but not sand blasted, you a doing more harm than good with the sander and heat transfer. Also you will spend the rest of your life sanding it to bare metal.
Thank you for that, when you say dipped is that in a paint removal liquid? And yeah I think we heavily underestimated how long it will take to sand but we’re trying to save money!
@@archieandbensadventures Sanding will leave waves in flat panels such as the door and sides once painted, chemical dip but it is costly. Soda blasting is cheaper than chemical dip. The cheapest way to paint it is remove all rust cutting back until you no longer see rust then prime the repair and if the original paint is somewhat ok then start cutting the paint until smooth.
@@archieandbensadventures That's going finer grit but Yep between your own force and heat transfer but if nothing is coming through the old paint, you can feather it in with good high fill E-primer on repaired metal. Paint maybe a 100x worst in person and honestly I can't tell from a video so If you are needing to strip it to bare metal you can use some regular old orange paint stripper i guess i've never tried it on such a large scale well not even on a whole body panel, make sure it's in a extremely well vented area. paint stripper and old lead paint fumes could be a very bad combo. Restoring an old vehicle is very expensive
Weld some new steel into those doors
You don’t need to unbolt the bonnet to remove it, remove the stay, lift and fold it almost flat to the windscreen and it simply lift up and free.
Thank you we will remember that for next time!
If I may give you one tip - buy yourselves a drill, it will save so much time in unbolting, unscrewing and reattaching all the components. I bought a cheap Black and Decker one from Amazon and it’s been a lifesaver. Of course, don’t over-tighten when putting things back together (most will have variable torque settings, the lowest of which will be fine for what you’re doing), and always use a torque wrench and torque to spec anything that would be a pain to have to drill out.
Sounds like a good idea, it’s the next item on our shopping list!
If you disconnect the bonnet stay and fold it back against the windscreen it should just lift off.
Thank you we realised this after we unbolted it all 🤣
Tip: because I heard you want to paint the car in the tent, maybe its better to prepare the doors, bonnet, etc outside. In this way you prevent all the dust from sanding of staying in the tent and later mess up your paint job.
Great job!
Yeah that makes more sense, I think we will from now on!
Keep up the bood work Guys!
Thank you mate!
A tip: Have the vehicle dipped or blasted but not sand blasted, you a doing more harm than good with the sander and heat transfer. Also you will spend the rest of your life sanding it to bare metal.
Thank you for that, when you say dipped is that in a paint removal liquid? And yeah I think we heavily underestimated how long it will take to sand but we’re trying to save money!
@@archieandbensadventures Sanding will leave waves in flat panels such as the door and sides once painted, chemical dip but it is costly. Soda blasting is cheaper than chemical dip. The cheapest way to paint it is remove all rust cutting back until you no longer see rust then prime the repair and if the original paint is somewhat ok then start cutting the paint until smooth.
@@jeremynoel4123 Would it still leave waves if we went up in grits all the way from 60-320 then primed and painted?
@@archieandbensadventures That's going finer grit but Yep between your own force and heat transfer but if nothing is coming through the old paint, you can feather it in with good high fill E-primer on repaired metal. Paint maybe a 100x worst in person and honestly I can't tell from a video so If you are needing to strip it to bare metal you can use some regular old orange paint stripper i guess i've never tried it on such a large scale well not even on a whole body panel, make sure it's in a extremely well vented area. paint stripper and old lead paint fumes could be a very bad combo. Restoring an old vehicle is very expensive
Okay thank you that’s very helpful!
Talking too quiet, or music way too loud :)
Thanks for the feedback mate I’ll make sure to turn it down a little!