Ebay Heads for BUDGET Power?? Are Ebay heads any good? - 400 HP 350 Small Block Chevy Build Part 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.ย. 2024
- #ebayheads #budget #sbc #enginebuild
Welcome to Dive In Garage! Follow along as I build a budget 350 Small Block Chevy, shooting for 400Hp! Don't forget to Subscribe!!
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In this video I'll be covering:
-Ebay heads, are they any good? Are Ebay heads worth it?
-amazon head studs
-porting and polishing, clean up really. With an inside view of polishing!
-how to measure spring install height
-installing an oil pump
-oil pain studs
-how to measure pushrod length
-retro roller camshaft install
-retro roller lifters
Thanks for watching! Don't forget to like and subscribe!
Music from: TH-cam Audio Library
Cartridge rolls are a much better choice over grinding stones. Your stone are clogged and a clogged stone doesn't remove metal unless you are melting it and pushing it aside. Get yourself some cartridge rolls and a couple of different length arbors. Unfortunately, you have to step up to 1/4" capacity grinder, not the 1/8" capacity of a Dremel tool. Believe me, it does a much better and nicer job. They are availabe in 3 diameters and a few different grits. The burrs you have should work nicely but keep the teeth clean and let the tool do the work and it will clog up less. Vevor sells an electric grinder that is cable operated. You might want to look into one of these unless this is the only pair of head you will ever work on.
Coat your burrs and stones with WD 40 it will keep your burrs from clogging up with aluminum, I’m not sure if it works on stones but I’d try it.
Yeah this is cheese ...pure DIY cheese 🧀 🤮
I am a Professional engine builder. The machine work and prep Assembly. With that said I enjoy these videos I like seeing guys and girls getting in there getting their hands dirty explaining it to everybody. Letter rip
Glad you're enjoying them! More on the way
Not a professional engine builder but was a power engineer and been building engines since early 90s, agreed its all in the details…machine work, prep, assembly but I would add quality and properly spec’d components to your list wrong bolts and springs will make any head garbage.
@msk3905 nothing good happens with poor valvetrain. Exactly
@@diveingaragecan you send me a link to the shims that you used I’m my Amazon/ eBay heads should be on the way !!
Nice!! After verifying spring install hight all that was needed was the locator. Double check for your application, part no below.
COMP Cams Valve Spring Locators 4693-16
Cool Video!, the spring fell in when someone was installing a distributor curve kit for GM HEI distributor, the distributor was removed and one of the old stock springs beneath the rotor fell down the distributor hole
Why did you do that ???
Good job bro… I watched the whole video on something I’ve done many times, you have a good delivery.
Thank you!
When doing intake ports on head's, the roof is the most important area! Actually fuel and air probably never touch the floor, air takes the quickest/easiest way it can! So out of your intake the first place it's going to hit is the "roof" of your ports on your head's. Probably don't want to make them really smooth either! Dang, there are much easier valve spring tools out there for cheap! Like 30-40 buck's, I know more expensive than that Ls deal, but a lot easier and safer!
What are you talking about the entire area of the port will be full of air. Saying none of it will probably never touch the floor is just stupid and if that was the case why would they have all that volume area to begin with…oh that’s right more volume of air can flow and smoothing them out helps air flow restriction is restriction period.
To save time just lap the valves right off the bat. New heads never seal out of the box. Also you lap the valves you have to lift the valve off the seat periodically because the lifting motion is what brings the lapping compound back in. Keeping the valve down on the seat as you lap keeps the compound on the edge.
Great job on your sbc
You should oil the tips of value stem before installing them
As well as have a steel oil pump drive you should also weld the pickup on the pump
Definitely! This one was welded a while back. Basically still new and good to go
Just an FYI on small black Chevy's I also drill a small hole Behind the Cam gear to provide pressurized oil between the block and the face of the back of the Cam gear because once in a Blue Moon that will chew up the block
Good tip, wouldn't have thought of that
@@diveingarage The small blocks in the late eighties in nineties, the center oil galley plug on the front of the block add a whole drill in the center of it from the factory to provide pressurized oil to the timing chain. I also do that on all of them no matter the era. But absolutely put some pressurized oil right Behind the face of that Cam gear to the block. Keep on building keep the cars on the road and keep the videos Coming. Just in FYI I'm a retired machinist, It was a full service engine machine shop as well as drive Shafts and suspension . I still knock out a handful of circle track engines And hot rod street engines every year. Please feel free if you have any questions absolutely speak up. I do keep current with parts and building friends and Machining and so forth
Thank you! I appreciate it, might take you up on that one day!
16:25 piston pullback spring
Always do a multi angle valve job because you want the valve seat to be on the outer edge of the valve face and about the thickness of a dime... this will seal and flow way better...a wide valve seat will not seal properly and can have a tendency to burn...a good valve job can give you up to 50 HP if done properly....
Honestly bought the exact same head and he's right they could use some clean up on ports but honestly they're better than alot of factory sbc heads
Nice! Glad you like them
I believe they may be dart knock offs. Witch is all good , they look exactly like my dart SHP heads. I believe there’s a lot of brotix knock offs to. For sbc also I forget what name they Go under.
@glennborek2359 like it tripped me out everyone said don't buy cheap Chinese heads they'll be a jightmare at the machine shop every hole is tapped so good I've put all my bolts in hand tight before I even touched a ratchet the deck surfaces were beautiful I've seen alot worse from alot more "reputable" brands
They really are solid! I'll be using them again for sure. What are you building?
@@diveingarageI'm building a 1968ish 327 , I have the double humps heads original 202 iron heavy they are looking very ruff, was thinking of going with a set of China special..
If I don't use on the 327 I will definitely use on my 350 that i plan to rebuild.
Do both methods. Spin the push rod and go up/down.
Never seen someone intentionally rough up the face of the cylinder head before 😂. Usually they just spray brake clean on a microfiber towl
Check the clearance with the double roller chain and gear around the bosses for the oil galleries around the cam snout. Not all chains are the same and sometimes you may need to clearance the boss is just a tickle with a die grinder so that the back side of the gear and chain cleaner. As mentioned before get a 12" set of calipers for the pushrod length. You just went through the whole process of setting the valve lash perfectly then ballparked it with a tape measure. Also your spring measurement tool is in metric measurements. It measures from outside edge to inside edge via the keepers. Measuring it the way you did your dial calipers will give you an incorrect measurement. You measured from outside edge to outside edge. Also use lube on the valve guides when machining them or lapping the valves. Putting a little bit of tape over the valve stem goes along way when putting the seals on. The valve stems have a very pronounced edge to them and can tear the seals really easy. I did appreciate the format of the video and the way you presented it keep making more videos. 🤟
Wow thank you for all the feedback, I genuinely appreciate it. Definitely going back to double check a few things before moving on.
@@diveingarage no prob brother we got to keep this hobby alive and strong 🤟 you also got a new subscriber if that helps.
Yes u can tape the tip or u can get a plastic cover to smooth the keeper groves for seal install.
Get a set of 12” calipers and you’ll be way more accurate on pushrod length, I’d actually say you’re closer to 7.266 or 7.100 pushrod length
Definitely a good idea, will need to pickup a set
7.266 to 7.100.. that narrows it down... Not! 🤣
@@b.c4066 what or Who asked for your input mongoloid?
Just buy a push rod checker. If u follow vice grip garage at all Derek did a great video on doing push rod length measuring recently on his Monte Carlo video engine build.
Agreed, go to your local harbor freight and get a set of 12 inch calipers! However remove the battery (s) when you're done with them otherwise the next time you go to use them it'll be a no go from a dead battery guaranteed!!! If you plan on doing this more than once or twice invest in a good set of calipers!
Hey buddy nice video.. Thanks it help alot. What valves and springs and parts did you use. Thanks
Awesome, glad it helped. I did a live video going over all of the parts I used. Check it out:
th-cam.com/users/livemv42BCPAHPU?feature=share
What was the point of hitting the sealing surface with 80 grit?
Just an FYI when using those bits, spray some wd40 or any lubricant and that will help with aluminum gumming up.
Mating surfaces like on the bottom of the head, use a block of wood (2x4) that is wider than the head so that you can grab both sides. Place sandpaper (about 600) around the wood and work the wood from end to end on the head. Should give you an idea if you have a low spot without removing to much material.
Which bit?
On the dremel
Well apparently TH-cam didn’t like my link. The burring bit is what I was referring to when using WD40, you can try it with the stone ones as well but I prefer to use the porting sandpaper rolls. You can find the porting set on Amazon and if you are just cleaning the runners up that would be your best option I think.
You need a intake gasket to mark your ports then do your intake
If all goes according to plan, this intake won't be on this engine for too long. So I didn't bother porting the intake, maybe if I reuse it on another engine later on
Did you forget the gallery plugs above the camshaft?
When you measured the spring height with the caliper did you take into account the thickness of the spring retainer ? Looks like you just measured to the top of the tool which would give you a false reading since the spring retainer is recessed in the measuring tool
Nice catch, I appreciate you calling that out! Going to go back and remeasure the spring heights.
@@diveingarage hopefully all is still ok !
@@diveingarage I noticed this also and was hoping you had that difference calculated in to your measurments.. hope it all works out ok!
Says while installing the thread sealant to be generous then when installing head gaskets and heads asks if there’s a better way because it made a mess. Nice video, just thought that part was funny
Use oil for the thread lube. Wiping thick thread sealer is not fun.
Biggest lesson i learned about cheap sbc heads is always hone the valve guides.
Where the valve stem travels? Or the shoulder where the seal goes?
After doing all that you really should take a pressure washer or go to the car wash and clean the heads with water to get all the crap and material out of all the holes because air does not clean it that good I find high pressure water get's it so much cleaner then just air
Good tip. I did some carb cleaner but a pressure washer sounds like a good idea
Why didn't you tac weld the pick up tube to the oil pump I never put a pump in without welding it
Agreed, good to tack weld the pickup. I did that to this pump combo when I installed it the first time. Way back when I got the truck.
Have you lapped and installed the valves without grease, or at least oil on the stems?
Stems were oiled
Might I recommend cartridge rolls for clean up vs using cutters that could damage?
Used a variety of dremel attachments, those sanding drum cartridges did work well.
I used them on my 383 Stroker, made 553 horsepower, 490 ft/lbs of torque
That's awesome! If I can hit 400 I'll be pumped!!
how much $$ were these heads?
About $170/ea on the evilbay
Have them on my 383 as well. Ported by Lloyd Elliot. 500ish hp and 520ish tq on E85.
@@diveingarage whats the build specs on that? Cam? Ported heads too?
Just wondering what brand or who is the seller of these heads on the Evol bay? I like the 35-degree angle for the Vortec and regular manifolds in one head.
No oil on the valve stems during assembly is a no no. Always oul tge stems.
Couple things you really missed the mark on. A HV pump on an engine that isn't worn out does more harm than good. If the bearings aren't shot, all you gain is more parasitic loss and heating of the oil.
On your spring height mic, tighten it JUST enough to take out the slack and take your measurement. If you have small OD retainers that measure off the recess, subtract the .150" depth from your measurement. When you tighten the crap out of it, it will skew your reading quite a lot. And its made worse when you measured the unloaded took with caliper tips. (that's why you numbers didn't come out even)
On your pushrod setup, centering your contact patch is 100% the wrong way to do it.
The valves and screw-in studs are not parallel. The tip height of the valve determines where the height of the rocker needs to be. Taller valves will move the rocker towards the exhaust manifold side of the valve. If the rocker is lower on the stud, it will pull back.
When the valve is 1/2 open, and the cam is 1/2 open, the rocker centerlines should be square with the valve stem. After you do that, if the contact patch is at the very edge of the tip, you need different rockers. Installing the wrong pushrods isn't the solution.
It's not where the patch is that really matters, it's how wide it is. The skinnier the patch, the more direct you're pushing the valve straight down. If the patch is wide as hell, that means you're pushing across the valve tip while you're pushing down. That results in side loading that wears out your valve, and you lose lift from moving at an angle the whole time.
Keep in mind, you're not pushing against the skinny valve tip, you're actually pushing against the spring. So even if you're .025" or .030" off of center, you're still pretty well centered in the spring.
You can actually ruin the ports by grinding away without knowing where to grind...
Can you send me a link to the shims you used I’m also in the process of building my eBay heads I’m going to be using a summit 8803 cam
If you dip your bit in candle wax or a bar of soap once in a while. It won't clog on soft metals.
Good tip, I'll give it a shot next time!
What part number for the guideplates and studs?
Check out this video, I go over all of the parts.
th-cam.com/users/livemv42BCPAHPU?feature=share
nice job !! could you tell me what cam you used to help get 400 hp i would like to know for an order thanks
I used a 230/236 @ .050 - Retrofit roller from CompCams
what was the point of the sandpaper on the heads?
Good comment below about the timing chain. Usually the inexpensive double row Clear but the real deal true roller that are wider than the inexpensive change will rub on top of the center galley plug. Just take a car bide and roll that sucker over and grind it back a touch
Guess I got lucky on my set from comp. No interference
@@diveingarage If you were using the Like early nineties one piece seal blocks those Tend to clear without having to modify. The older 2 piece rear main seal engine blocks I've never had one wider true roller chain without modification. Maybe somebody in the past already touched it up. No matter the reason, good job For double checking. It's a bummer when ground engine metal circulate through your engine and worse than tmatt if the timing chain breaks because it wore through the link pins. I've seen it happen and wow does it make a lot of expensive carnage
Is that the ebay DNA heads? I've heard good and bad about the I heard about 2 years ago not to waste money on them because the guides were junk and so were the valves and springs a while back someone said they were way better now. Ñot that I would buy any. I always go with you get what you pay for.
If you're going to use these heads I would buy them bare, never know what you'll get with "complete" ebay heads. Better off to assemble them yourself.
Look like brass valve guides and bronze valve seats. Not what ya want for unleaded fuel.
@@pb68slab18 id run upper cylinder lube even if they were
Yes Sir gotta remove the casting flash
Yeah that was a distributor spring. Probably fell into the motor when swapping out distributor or adjusting and reinstalling it.
Crazy how it made its way down there!
did i miss something ? no mention of installed height , or valve stem length
yea i did miss it
Be sure to watch the next video in this series! Almost made a HUGE mistake
New pistons, heads, etc old oil pump?
Recently installed. Good high volume pump set up for this oil pan.
Need to thread seal the intake rocker studs on those.
I'll keep that in mind. Appreciate the tip
Is is possible for you to give part numbers
Yup, check this video out.
th-cam.com/users/livemv42BCPAHPU?feature=share
Freaking score bruhda. The cross hatch told a huge part. Saweet. So as a rookie here, just curious. What the most powerful stock roller cam the Vortec heads can deal with. Any summit secret cam by chance ??!!
Summit makes some great cams for roller and non roller SBCs. Definitely can't lose there
@@diveingarage There are a handful of fantastic Cam shafts for Vortex heads for those that want to Max out horsepower and Torque I won't make any recommendations right now because I don't know if vacuum is needed for power breaks, if somebody wants a flat tap it versus a hydraulic roller, idle quality what kind of vehicle etc But please reach out if you would like some info. The valve train is the heart Of the engine. Please Only use quality parts regarding the valve train. I will keep this reply short Good luck gentlemen keep on building And speak up if you would like more input please
Any bigger than 450 lift I think you have to have the spring pockets cut down.
Old post I know. Vortecs don't flow enough over 500 lift to use a bigger cam. You may loose power. There are a lot of good cams out there around 500 lift.
I wound up with a .470 lift from comp,they also recommended the correct springs. I did a basic clean up in the runners an blending the bowls just a touch. I'm still assembling everything. I upgraded the pulleys so I'm almost finished. I will keep you all posted. Thanks for the input.
What's the actual part numbers for the heads I can't seem to find 64cc DNA heads I found 68cc
Try searching: SBC Small Block Chevy 350 400 Aluminum Bare Cylinder Head. Should be plenty of options.
The amount of Teflon used on the threads was enough to assemble 3 motors 😂
Haha yeah, might have gone a little overboard there.. worked perfect!
Don't forget those valve guide seals!
Easy to forget ha Will cause lots of problems down the road if you do!
What you do to seal up the rocker studs ??
Blue Loctite
Are the heads Deepmotor SBC Small Block Chevy 350 Cylinder Head Bare Straight Plug Aluminum ?
Yup!
Man that pushrod pinch is nasty
Any specs or link to the specific heads that you purchased from eBay? I am trying to order a set for my 350 tbi
Plenty of them out there on the evil bay. Try: SBC Small Block Chevy 350 Aluminum Bare Cylinder Head
You did not lube the valve stems and guides and that is not good
good tip, I'll remember that
I bought the same heads so you have a parts list
I've had quite a few people ask for a parts list to assemble these heads. I'll do a build video next week
Build video is up! Check it out! th-cam.com/users/livemv42BCPAHPU?feature=share
Did you get a valve job done?? Because these out the box the valve seats are shit lol need a lot of cutting
No valve job. Wanted to see how these heads perform with the valve job they come with. I bet they could be improved for sure!
@@diveingarage I just got mine back from the machine shop yesterday valve job n porting done, they going on at 11.5:1 383 stroker
That sounds awesome!
@@diveingarage oh she should be a ripper my dad owns a FBO 15’ challenger SRT 392…this mf is a 3880lb long bed square body…it’s already got a decent 700R4 and 3.73 gears,
I hope w the hogged out ass DNA heads it can run good, should be shifting at 6500rpm…gotta beat the new, w spray or not idgaf
Did these heads last long?? Good or shit??
Funny you ask I was just thinking about doing a one year review. They're still running great! Lmk If you have any other questions and I'll work them into that video
@@diveingarage kms done from then to now, was it in real hot whether or cold, how it ran in that whether. Compression test and maybe a look down the cylinders with snake camera if you got one. Or just pull the head off lol
Awesome. I'll get that video out soon!
You got a link to thos heads?
Plenty of them out there on ebay. Try searching: SBC Small Block Chevy 350 Aluminum Bare Cylinder Head
Sandpaper on the bottom of head ouch
You may wanna check your head stud washers next time they only go on in one direction. The bottom side is concave that goes flat while tightening , you don't just toss them on like rings on bowling pins at the town fare ! Lol 😂
Haha thanks for the tip. On name brand head studs you're right. But on the set I'm using they're just flat.
What ebay heads are those
These were from Deepmotor. But there are a lot of other sellers
Still don't work as well as a old set of Vortec's with a trick valve job
What kind of numbers are you making with that setup?
@@diveingarage I have made 490hp with a conservative hydraulic roller, on a 400 sbc 9.1 comp. Not crazy HP, but it made 535 ft lbs. I am building one right now to sell.
Wow! That is pretty good!
Aren’t you measuring in the wrong spot on the spring height gauge? The retainer sits in a counter bore on gauge. You are measuring from the top of the gauge with your calipers instead of measuring from where the retainer sits. You’re probably .080 off
yup, check out my next vid. I address this
Please check over your video you’ve made a big mistake on the valve spring installed Height this could get people in trouble you should’ve used a long valves The retainers are recessed Into your spring heights Gauge
Thanks, I did. Few comment threads about that
Could you please make a new video explaining to people your mistake so they don’t do it thanks
Sanding wheels... Grinding stones will plug up
You're right! I used quite an array of bits
After reading several of these comments. I find people correcting your work a lot. Maybe most of these people should start their own u-tube channel
🤪
Yep, lots of opinions out there. Some are pretty helpful
@@diveingarage are they??
We all can still learn.
That spring is off of a mechanical advanced distributor 😂.
Crazy!
All that valve seating for some valves that are too long lol
Haha I know! Ended up using them, check out the next video!
I didn't catch the name of these heads.
Plenty of them out there on ebay. Try searching: SBC Small Block Chevy 350 Aluminum Bare Cylinder Head
What is everyone's thoughts on running high volume oil pump with a stock volume pan like he is, I'm very curious bc I just did a 388 stroker with HV oil pump and stock style pan everyone keeps telling me it will suck the pan dry at higher rpm I was even told by someone that I couldn't even run it in a full 1320 without it emptying the pan before it had time to drain back thru the block
I was running this pump/pan combo on the street for quite a while and never had that problem. Always good oil pressure. At sustained high rpm I still don't see it emptying the pan and having nothing to pump. Just my .02
Old wives tail, as long as the drain back holes in the heads are clear, and opened up to the block/head gasket you'll be fine.
More oil pressure doesn't mean more volume.
Circle track raced a Camaro for years stock pan high volume pump never had a oil pressure issue
10 pounds of oil pressure per 1k rpm is needed, I prefer when I build mine to be little over 10 pounds
good heads are not expensive and no work needed, and you can sleep at night.
True. You can either spend $1200+ for ready to fo heads or about $400 and some of your time
I know you mean well, and have some basic knowledge, but I have to say that most everything you've done is exactly what not to do. Yes, most of this should be done. It's the method of doing it that is wrong. Yes it'll work, but there is MUCH room for improvement.
Appreciate the view and b comment! I'll say this, there's always a better way and another way for more HP at any power level. The point was to show people you CAN do this yourself, in your garage.
Thats RTV sealant
Aha! Thank you
You seem to have a basic knowledge of how to assemble heads, but I gotta ask. You had a bottle of assembly lube right there on the bench, yet you assembled the heads completely dry. WHY???
Now you're basically going to start an engine with no protection
Don't worry! Everything got a generous coat of assembly lube before startup! You'll see in later videos!
The way u measured the spring height was hilarious you were totally wrong on every measurement. The checker was a inch tall right? so each big number on the side are the .010 and the numbers on the line up the middle are the .001 so when u measured 35 and 7 it was reading 1.042 since .035 plus .007 is .042 it's graduated the same as a regular dial caliper on the barrel.
The height checker was over 1", can't remember exactly right now. But I did make some spring install height changes in my next video. Check it out!
@@diveingarage plus you measured the spring height gauge from outside to outside BUT the top had a recess in it of 100 tho or what ever...opps i see below its pointed out so you got the picture cheers, plus dont over tighten any gauge it only needs very light finger tightness
He was wrong, but not in the way you say. The hash marks in the middle are worth .005" not .001". It's always a slight guess +/-.001" if the reading doesn't line right up with a hash mark.
The problem is he cranked down on the height mic like crazy, the measured the mic unloaded with a caliper.
The proper way to use it (and get correct measurements) is to tighten it just enough to square up with the retainer, and that's it. Then, when using small OD retainers like those, subtract the distance that equals the counterbores. Most height mics are .150" deep.
The overtightening is why the caliper measurement didn't come out even and match the height mic.
With thread sealer u just put way too much on. All u need is a little dab not completely painting the threads 😂
Haha might have overdone it. Oh well too much will work just fine over not enough I guess
If those are chinese valves, dont ever use them! They deform under load and heat and disrupt! (get a good set of Manley severe duty pro flo or Ferrea stainless steel valves with back cut heads, Milodon valves are also fine for street built)
Using some Elgin SS valves
@@diveingarage ok for street they might be ok as long they are not made in China....I would never ever use any chinese valve in my engine! (a hit or miss situation)
Definitely some low quality control on imported parts. But this will be a street engine.
@@diveingarage yes but valves (especialy exhaust ones) wont know whether they glow red on street or race.... I would not trust chinese metallurgy on exhaust valves. (Intakes will run cooler) Dont forget the price, you cant make a set of 8 good valves for 60 Dollars, not even for 100, a good valve will cost 30-40 dollars per piece.
a new oil pump is cheap
Definitely. I put that melling high volume pump on the motor when it was on the stand last.
up and down, spinning dosent matter your looking for 0 lash
That's right! I'll be using the up and down method in this build
What was the point of head studs 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
These head studs are pretty solid! I expected to have to swap them out for ARPs, but so far so good. Will update if they fail!
@@diveingarage oh okay! I was like why not just use bolts
Dont buy Chinese heads they have non hardened valve seats and those seats can come loose! You cant use the heads without a complete valve job! The valves wont seal and burn!
Wanted to try them out and see how they do.
@@diveingarage be careful, let the heads check by a good machine shop! Let them make a HQ 3 or 5 angle valve job and port the channels. Dont forget you will have to deck your block or you will get a too low compression ratio and a bad quench! The engine needs a 0.040" quench to prevent knock with todays crap fuels. If your block is undecked you need a special thin .15 head gasket for aluminum heads. Best use Fel Pro 1094 (other too hard gaskets for cast iron heads indent the aluminum head surface)
Umm… they’re ductile iron seats, these are also the same castings and seats used by AFR on their enforcer series small block Chevy head, same for Brodix with the Pro 1 cylinder heads, they DO NOT have “soft seats”.
@@Schlipperschlopper also, coming from a guy who owns a engine shop, and machine shop, everything you just said was and is complete bull-hockey, as I said in an earlier comment I made 553 horsepower and 490 ft/lbs of torque with these heads with a +.100 valve due to me running a Retro-fit roller cam, full roller rockers and 1.550(diameter) springs.
@@diveingarage you’ll be just fine, don’t listen to the guys who say “don’t buy Chinese heads” they tend to be the typical guys who’ll buy the same casting from AFR for triple the price, imagine it like Apple vs Samsung, or even Sony vs Microsoft, they don’t realize half the stuff from AFR, Edlebrock, Holley, Brodix, Clay smith, Professional products, and more are cast in Taiwan, China, Mexico, and also Australia, very few are made in the USA (and even then it’s a Chinese core).
Run them and you WILL be satisfied with them.
What is an Ebay head, Ebay doesn't and never has manufactured anything.
No name or off brand heads bought on ebay
400HP and your using junk parts and logic???? These cheap heads have lots of problems since they are chinesium.
Well they're working great so far! Will post if something happens. Tons of people use these
Why don't anyone port and polish these and also port them to the intake manifold for a fair comparo
Good thing it did make it to the pick up,, my luck,, it would have been uncoil'd twinxt the cam and bearings or crank bearings,, LOL
Ha I hear ya. Glad it was all in one pice and glad it's outta there now!
Why didn’t u just chick the valve into a drill and instead of spinning g ur hands use a certain rpm from the drill
I thought about that, seen it done. Just wanted to try it by hand this time. Definitely an option!
Block surface is not for od debris
I could definitely have sanded it down some. Next time!