Love the vortec heads, used my first set in 1999 if I remember correctly paid 420‽ from dealership, had to wait awhile on the intake, machine shop had no idea of what I was doing. Installed with a comp 270 cam and it was and still 20+ yrs later a great engine. Great video thanks
Oh yeah, the stay true comp 270 cam. Great cam on the street and track for sure a very stout 355. Has anyone ever seen the AFR 195 eliminators on a sbc 355 dyno with the comp 270 and 280 magnum cams? They can be very impressive cams with high flowing efficient heads. Then again they are like the baseline cam of all cams. The bar all modern cams are set by.
I ran this exact setup but with a lunati cam in my s10 and ppl thought I was crazy for claiming it to be right at 400hp. Until they seen how good it ran 😎
For 225.00 I bought heads (906's), manifold and Valve covers. Then had the heads gone through for another 200.00. Did clean up the exhaust ports as mentioned in his other vids. Running similar flat tops with the Felpro .015 gasket. Just over 10:1 compression. No problem on 91 octane. Runs strong in my 65 El Camino.
I have a set of .062 Vortec heads on my 355 sbc. Paid $200 for them. We magnaflux them and they weren't cracked. Machine shop said 9 out of 10 crack. Still rolling with these heads since 2017, over 100k miles.
@@lindajones1592 Providing it has low end enough to start moving without hesitation at stall- Depends on your idle while car is in drive. You could get away with a comp 260H10 , 268H10, 270H10, XE262H10, an XE268H10, a 265 deh, XE250H10, XE256H10, The question is, depending on the idle in drive, when does it start to pull through your brakes at a stop sign or red light? And depending on stall and gearing, when does it start to bog off the line under part throttle or even wide open throttle from a stop and shudder at trying to pull the car forward when it cannot get started moving ?. Even though any of these cams could use a stall converter that stalls at near peak or first high area of torque rpm on the dynograph, at the track. Some have used an XE274H10 & vortec heads with stock converter on youtube, even though a 2500 stall works at the track well. They had low idle while in drive tuned well. my opinion is that every cam could use a 2500 converter even a stock one. Also depends on your gearing, The ones using XE268H10 and XE274H10 cams had 3.73 gears. And a red 2nd gen with a 270H10 had 4.10 gears and stock converter. But even if your not moving on your brakes, if it is tugging against your brakes , they are going to be worn out in short order and the hubs too, eaten in a week or 2 or a few days. And the idle will be going crazy like a freight train that doesn't want to stop all the way into the middle and through the intersection, it will tug drag your car there standing on the brakes and even locking up the front tires it will push your car where you don't want to go. And through water puddles, down hills past the stop sign, etc. So stall. You can use a tight nitrous style converter with a high stall speed that is between stall and unstall. This shall allow your car to have neutrality but start moving the car sooner under part throttle and be more efficient than a high stall without this design.
This guy is a Vortec head LEGEND!!! I love those heads on a old school SBC. I am almost done with my 355 now. Next I want to put a set of these heads on a 400 SBC. Not sure what to put it in tho.
Thanks for the info.... Really looking at vortec heads for the motor I'm building. Old 4 bolt main, stock crank.... Maybe new rods definitely going to use the Summit pistons and a flat tappet cam. Really looking forward to your review on different head manufacturers. Keep it up! Thanks again!
Watching your videos is helpful, thinking I may use a similar build to this for my personal project. Already have a decent block with crank and my 062 heads are awaiting the beehive mod, should be a fun winter.
I got a set of 906 heads at a junkyard for 85 dollars and ported them and put summit racing springs in them and got screw in studs for them and they work really good .
Hell yeah! Thats awesome man, if you can find a deal like that on a good set and do most of the work yourself...you can really end up with a really good set of heads for the money
Look like my old 355 .I used aftermarket vortex heads thicker decks, screw in studs. I sold it a few years ago now I got a small block 406 aluminum heads roller cam roller Rockers. I love it much better better. They're like night and day
Dont forget to mention the good old world products sportsman 2 iron head. 200 cc intake runner. Semi cheap but made good power with larger flat tappet cams.
Start with a good junkyard Vortec L31 and stay with a roller cam. You'll not need to worry about the problems associated with flat tappet cams. Then, down the road step up to good aluminum heads and you'll be at 500+ hp no problem. 👍
What head gasket & was the block decked? The customer wanted a Thumper cam CL-12-600-4, adv 279in-297ex, 479in-465ex on a 107 LCA, vortec heads ported with 1.60 exhaust. Block wasn't decked so I'm going with a .015 head gasket to get .043 quench, pistons are the summit 4 valve relief flat tops down about 27 thousands in the bore, gapless 2nd rings, groved lifter bores, behive spring kit, valve guides cut down ect. Airgap port matched with an edelbrock carb. Going to break it in with a known good holley & swap. 2k-5800 is what comp says, with better springs & 1.60 ss exhaust valves...guessing 6k max. He basically wanted the sound but needs the power to move his lifted pickup. Think it will hit 400hp? Guessing your cam builds more tq though...?
I have a combo too. Summit flattop 9 1/2 to 1 . add vortecs. Summit 480 lift cam. Jegs 331 intake. 1 in. Spacer. Stock oil pump. Heavy duty single cloyes chain. HEI high fire distributor. Royal purple oil 30wt. 200 shot of sniff. I did this year's ago then people caught on such as yourself I still have the engine from 18 yrs ago to prove it.
@@kurrentevent I know right, when I ran it, it did low 11. I don't have anything to put the engine in now. It's just sitting in my garage with many other things.
I've got a 40 over 350 flat tops 288, 480 cam different brand General kennetecs if I remember right. Dual plane with a 600 edelbrock the stock heads are killing me. My brother-in-law is always getting old trucks. I think I will keep my eyes open.
I build a .40 350 with flat tops. A comp 270 cam with TBI heads and a performer RPM intake. That engine was a screamer and moved my 3600 lb car like it was a feather. So I can imagine how vortec heads would've done.
I used that comp camp magnum 270 in many street builds. Had a muscle car idle, stock converter worked, had vac for power brakes, and just a decent all-around street cam.
I have a question for you about the comp cams tool that I see used to cut down the valve guides on these heads. The videos I see here on youtube they completely remove the stepped portion of the valve guide. I thought the cutting would be to clear the retainers with higher lift cams? Or are they cutting away the entire stepped portion for another reason like doble sping clearance or what? I was thinking you could just cut down a portion of the guide for retainer clearance but maybe I am missing something??
Hey Pat, really enjoying all your videos, I purchased this same camshaft a little while ago, I am totally on the low budget theme and not ready for a roller just yet. I have a 290 hp crate that I swapped out the heads for Dart ss cast iron with 67cc chambers, and .015 head gaskets, so around 9:1 compression. My question is how do you install that Melling 22301 cam at 2 degrees advance , and does this help out with cranking compression, and low end torque? thanks Kent.
I'd suggest a Howards cam with similar specs but on a 110 or 112 LSA to up the vacuum for brakes. Won't sound as good but, the power will still be there and you'll be able to stop.
I bought a set of 062 in 2004; I put 2.02 /1.60 in them because there wasn't much data readily available... Does this negatively impact the flow of the head or is it a "cost vs benefits" scenario.. 2nd, other than gasket matching there was no port work done. Do you have any advice on what I can do to get the most out of these heads? I have 600 lift springs 7/16 screw-in studs guide plates, running 1.6 roller rocker, RPM airgap intake Holley 780 vac second isky RR272/282 hyd roller. All of this sits on a 4 bolt 355 (+.030) with recon factory rods, arp rod bolts & std stock crank. Bear in mind this truck has been killing grass since 2007 (kids, wife, etc etc) it and I are VERY RUSTY. Also; I'm really enjoying your videos thanks for taking the time to make them!
Does isky and others still rent piston flycutters and seal/seat cutters? Spending 175 bucks on the cutters kind of blows the budget aspect. And paying a shop to cut the seal/seat bosses down does to. I have a set of original 906 castings that were dealer removed from a 20,000 mile engine that had a rod knock. Plan to try my hand at some basic port work and simply want to do as much of the work that I can on a budget.
Heres a options for not having to cut down the guide bosses on the vortec heads. You can do all the work yourself th-cam.com/video/FMQVxcQYHgw/w-d-xo.html
The thing that sucks for me is; I thought I found a unicorn about 30 years ago, when I found a good pair camel humps with bolt bosses for my 69 chevelle. Now I'm wondering if I should tear the top off the engine or just start over.
There is a aluminum double hump head in production now, but most aftermarket heads will out flow them, the tourqe numbers are so good for the street on the vortec heads. I like them.
What about using the vortec roller engines with some roller rockers? More powe? and torque plating helps the heads tremendously from twisting and cracking.
I need a bypass hose from top of water pump into the front of intake ! N block off the 3rd hole in front of block ,all on buget build N i have the 062 heads .
Question: I recently acquired two 880 blocks with one good set of 062 heads so I’m now on the hunt for 400hp as inexpensively as possible and love this buildup. I am splurging on a Howard’s roller 225/230 @ 050, .500/.510 lift (having the vortecs machined). Do you think the slightly bigger cam will overcome me not cleaning up the ridge on the heads? Also, when I set my combo up for a .040 squish, I’m at 10:1 scr and 8.5:1 dcm with the Howard’s cam. Do you think this will run good on 93 octane?
I always recommend some slight porting on vortecs if your running close to or over .500 lift. The larger cam will help but some pocket porting and some chamber work does wonders. I think you will be fine with high octane with as long as its kept cool and tune properly. I run 87 on my truck at 10:1 woth vortec heads with no pinging
@@cuttersperformance Thanks for your vids! You're helping make my dream truck a reality. I'm reusing the 350 block in my 93 Sierra Z71 but I'm slapping some new performance Vortecs from Clearwater on it (everything is going to the machine shop). Gonna use a low/mid-range flat tappet setup from Comp Cams (12-256-4). My question for you is what do you recommend for compression ratio? I want to squeeze as much power/torque out of this setup while keeping the smooth idle, strong vacuum, and run it on 87 gas. I'm concerned with 110°F+ summers in Phoenix and detonation. I will also be connecting the intake to the cold air port above the passenger side wheel well.
Cam timing plays a big role in fuel sensitivity (dynamic compression). Basically the later the intake valve closes (more aggressive cam) the more compression you can run on pump. Being that its a pretty mild cam, I would shoot for around 9.5 to 9.7:1 compression with a tight quench. You should have no issues on 87 octane as long as it tuned properly Cheers!
This is crazy, I am doing the same early 90s roller provisioned tbi block 062 vortecs 50K on it had 193s on it but a set if Mahle flat tops on rods.Only different is I was going to use an 1107 but the Melling is a better idea.
Awesome to hear! like i said in the video, this cam isnt the "perfect cam" but dont let anyone tell you there is such thing as a perfect cam haha This combination just works...works better than i thought it would. When it hit the dyno i was quite happy for such a basic cheap setup. Ive seen 383s with aluminum heads make less power to the wheels than this set up did The 1107 is more of a nitrous cam i believe with a wide LSA.
Summit, Jegs, Melling, and basic level cams from most cam companies all made by same company in S.W. Michigan... so go where price is lowest... currently Jegs... Summit K1107 is a 500 HP cam and not such a good matchup to Vortec heads that peter out by 425-450 HP... unless modding the heads for all out racing... going 11.5-12.5:1 compression ratio...
Why do SBC vortec heads have a tapered inlet ports, but all the after market inlet manifolds have rectangular port runners making it hard to port match.
So I built this engine not realizing the cam is rated to start at 3000 rpm. I have a 71 impala with I believe to be 2.56 gearing. It accelerates like a dump truck and is low on power in the low rpm’s. I didn’t get the 3500 stall converter in fear of burning up the trans cruising. I just wanted a motor I could rip the tires off if I wanted to but could still cruise. I’m now realizing the cam should be something in the lower rpm range. What cut of hydraulic cam to you recommend to keep some low end torque and not have to go with a high stall converter? I want to keep a choppy idle if possible also. Thank for the help.
Photo linked to this vid shows an "062" vortec head but when you rolled the head over later in the vid its actually the 906 vortec head. Everything ive heard is the 906 is the one more prone to cracking and we raced the 062 for multiple years with not problems.
very detailed and informative, except your HP numbers don't match my Vortec engine. I have a L31 Vortec from Jeg's with flat top pistons, 062 heads with a slight porting (236cfm @600) edelbrock 2116 intake stock valves/springs it was engine dyno'ed at 313hp 402tq and 232 chassis dyno. My question is what will the Melling cam #22301 increase my HP to? I'd be happy with 350+/- hp. I'm also running LT1 exhaust manifolds that are port matched/flowed to heads. Sadly it's a 2 bolt main with cast pistons.
@@cuttersperformance Cam Duration @ .050 in.: Intake 191 / Exhaust 194 Cam Lift: Intake 0.414 in. / Exhaust 0.428 in. Lobe Separation Angle: 112 lsa Pistons are same as in video
@@frankhershman7253 i recently put a vortec combo into a vette that had a cam similar to yours and it made 317 hp 400+ tq. You add a larger cam similar to meiling (springs and rockers to support), plus a set of long tube headers you'll be 360+ hp. Pull those heads, port the exhaust real well or add 1.6 exhaust valves (or both), 1.6 rockers and a 1 inch open carb spacer on that 2116 intake. 375+ hp
@@cuttersperformance sounds like an easy plan. I'll give it a try. FYI Flow numbers EX IN 100 51 62 200 96 134 300 137 184 400 155 224 500 164 232 600 169 236 question - have you ever added 4 bolt main caps to a 2 bolt block?
@@frankhershman7253 yeah you can get the 4 bolt caps and have it lined honed but i honesty wouldn't worry about it. I have a few decently powered two bolts kicking around (1pc rms blocks) one in particular is a vortec headed 355 that was originally build as a decent NA build but now he has gotten me to add a torqstorm supercharger. This thing hauls now! 6500 rpm and pushing 500+hp. Cast crank, pm rods and hyper pistons! Its gone a whole season now without a whimper Food for thought haha Also you can get almost 200 cfm out of the exhaust on a vortec with a 1.6 exhaust valves and porting
Not sure you still respond to comments. What would you do with an L98. I was thinking TPI delete and a turbo. Considering the compression is 9 ish to 1
Wow, I wasn't expecting that kind of power, from a "generic" flat tappet grind, at that. Makes me wonder how a similar budget setup would do using one of the ancient OEM solid grinds. Like the Elgin copy of the LT1 (242/254 @0.050 116 LSA) solid. Cheap and gentle on the valve train. Have a feeling it'd lose quite a bit of low rpm power.
@@BuzzLOLOL The Hydro grind may have a more modern lobe design but, the LT1 solid cam (Elgin E904P) is rated at 242/254 @ 0.050" lift on a 116 LSA. Suggested lash is 0.020". So, nowhere near 224/234 @ 0.050" on a 114 LSA. A difference of 15* overlap at 0.050". It's very possible the JEGS grind would still beat it on a dyno, but the basic numbers don't suggest they'd behave similarly.
The LT1 350 (solid) and L46 350 (hydraulic 224/224) gave almost identical numbers: www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1001-muscle-car-engine-shootout www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-1003-classic-chevy-small-block-dyno-testing
@@of_lion22 - The LT1 350 (solid) and L46 350 (hydraulic 224/224) gave almost identical numbers: www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1001-muscle-car-engine-shootout www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-1003-classic-chevy-small-block-dyno-testing
@@cuttersperformance really? i always was told and followed anything above 480 or so had to cut the guides down. its easy to do at home with a drill summit sells the cutter.
I got this same setup in my truck now a .030 bore flatop 350 with vortecs and airgap Intake but mine has a little crane274 cam. I got a question though I got another pair of vortecs that’s fresh and drilled for a 400 sbc I got the whole rotating assembly and a old wore out block to lol. The only thing I need is a pair of .040 pistons for a 400 one of mine is cracked. I was thinking of going with a flatop and was wondering if the compression will be ok on 93 pump gas probably around 11.1. What’s a good cam for that setup that will work with just the comp retainers and ls6 springs. And what is some things I can do to improve power on the heads like porting??
You can get away with 11:1 on pump gas if you keep the Dynamic compression down around 8.2 (cranking psi of around 180). So thats where the cam choices plays the biggest factor. Some pocket porting would be great idea on those vortecs, I will be making a video on that in the upcoming weeks
Typically the general idea is you want a cam that favors the exhauat on a vortec head. Is that cam the perfect cam? No because there no such thing as the perfect cam but I can tell you this combo works well! 👍 Race on!
Hello Sir, I am building this combo for my grandson. decided on this because i already have most of the parts including a fresh bottom end and a couple of 906 heads I was saving for a someday project. Do you know the part # of the rocker arms you mention? I cant seam to find any that work or that I think will work. Thanks for all the great info and videos All the best
@@cuttersperformance You mention 1.52 in the video so ill go with that. I am doing the beehive, screw in stud upgrade on the heads and I've ordered the +.030 valve locks. The cam is the same as you used in the video melling 22301. With a lift of 480/480 the 1.52 ratio should work. Too many choices.
Use a head gasket that will give you between .040 and .045 quench (or piston to head clearance) if you need to run a .015 steel shim make sure you head and deck surfaces are good. But if the block has been decked you shouldn't need a shim gasket
Iv ran two sets of the 062s.on my 350 and 327.thay flow better than the double hump heads.ya there heavy conpaired to aluminum. But to hand port and bolt on ya can't beat um
I need to replace my Hydraulic Lifters out of my 1982 Chevy 350 (ran great) that I am putting a set of 062 Vortec heads out of a 1998 Chevy 350 truck from....do I buy the new hydraulic lifters to fit the 1982 Block or the 1998 Vortec Heads ?
All vortec engines use roller cams/lifters and won't work in your block. Your engine will have flat tappet lifters Let me know if you have any more questions! Cheers
@@cuttersperformance Thanks Pat for the fast reply.. so that I got this straight... I need to buy Hydraulic lifters for my 1982 350 block.... unless I want to switchs to a Roller Cam and lifters/rocker arms.
Yes thats correct but if you switch to a roller cam in that block you'll need a retro fit roller cam, link bar roller lifters, a cam button (stops the cam from walking), and possibly a different distributor gear. Quite expensive lol. Flat tappet cams work great but you need to use good lifters, proper break in (very important) and the proper oil (also very important). Also make sure you get yourself a set if self aligning rocker arms if your switching to vortec heads (unless they have been machined for guide plates)
The heads I got on the truck on the 350 are GM 906 heads they run great. The other fresh pair I have for the 400 are Mexico 906s. I heard there thicker but flow a little less is that true???
about to build a vortec 350 , where can you find a decent factory style roller with around 230 @50 duration and not give up your left nut for it? only shooting for between 350 and 400 hp for a truck.
I have a rebuilt 327 .030 10/10 on the crank. I doubt the pistons have valve relief. Truck is a manual. I had thought about the Comp Cams magnum kit. I’m thinking your setup may be just perfect and cost quite a bit less. Thoughts?
So with a 327 because of the short stroke you got to make sure you get the right pistons or your going to end up with a low compression ratio. You could put in a regular flat top and end up with less than 9:1 becuase of the deck height and compression height of the piston
@@cuttersperformance Well I guess I better stick a scope in the hole and see what I have. She runs fantastic and I wasn’t going to do any other work than heads and cam
What is good about beehive springs? Reduced retainer weight? this engine will never rev high enough for that to matter. I know several people who have grenaded LS engines in the last few years, even expensive builds, and every case was a beehive spring failing. Why put them on a regular sbc when there are well proven conventional springs?
I've used many sets of beehive springs, even the Mexican made GM springs (don't use them anymore) never had an issue. The offer excellent valve control throughout a wide rpm range without really heavy spring pressure. They work great for on more aggressive flat tappet cams with worrying about wiping the lobes. They offer a high lift on vortec heads with a single spring and no guide cutting. There's always different options when building a engine, its all about figuring out what combo works for you Race on! 🏁
Hey pat what's ur email it's not popping up for me I'd love to grab some of those valve springs etc I'm running a 98 vortec 5.7 in my 02 s10 I have 50 bucks in the engine and running a t5 behind it and getting ready to buy a camshaft
Yes I understand, stock is around.025 to .027. I’m just saying if the block was square decked to 9.020 the compression with summit pistons with 6cc valve releif and a .027 thick head gasket comes out to 10.1:1 according to summit calculator. It seems the math is off and it’s important to know what it is
Should be between 9.5 to 10:1 depending on your deck clearance and head gasket thickness If your shooting for a quench around .050 you will be closer to 10:1
@@ethanrobinson649 the factory piston pin height for a 350 piston is 1.560 some rebuilder pistons are 1.540 adding a extra -.020 to piston to deck clearance so with a undecked block 9.025 deck height you end up around -.045 in the hole. The math is stroke 3.48 divided by two plus rod lenght 5.7 plus piston pin height 1.560 = deck height 9"
As far as deck clearance. Go as close to zero deck on the piston you can. Decking the block helps a lot. Find a good machinist & see what is recommended.
I know this is an old video. But what part number from summit would you recommend for the pistons? I see they have several styles and CCs listed for a .30 over SBC. Thanks! Or maybe If you have a complete parts list would be nice too. Thanks!
Another question Pat ... is the Timing Set really necessary...will my stock 350 timing setup work if I'm adding a milder cam than the one you are suggesting ? Like I said...I'm not looking for 400hp...just a decent running 300hp (or so) 350 for my old 82 Cube Van/Camper ! I already have a Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Lift 0.420 / 0.433 in - Duration 278 / 288 - 112 LSA Cam I am going to install..
I would highly recommend doing a timing chain of you still have the stock one in there. Lumpy cam + heavier springs just adds more stress to the timing chain
Yeah a great engine to build from. The block has roller cam provisions so thats a huge bonus. The stock pistons are dished so maybe some flat tops to bring up compression But that will depend on how much power and how big of cam you want to run
hey Pat, i know this is an old video but i was wondering how you came up with the compression number of 9.74 to 1? when i run this through a compression calculator assuming 64 cc combustion chambers on the vortec heads and a quench of 45 thou im seeing compression of 10.14 to 1. I was looking to mimic this bottom end and vortec head combo but im worried this will be too much static compression. Am i missing a piece of the puzzle here? its just going into a beat up old squarebody with a manual ao i guess it doesn't really need to make this much power but i dont want to just leave free horsepower on the table either!
Id have to go back on my notes but I believe the quench wasnt ideal. .012 in the hole. -7cc piston, .040 (4.100) gasket, with a 64 to 65cc head, should give you around 9.7 to 9.8 or so
Heres a video on how to check for max lift without special tools Also make sure the seals are all the way down on the guides th-cam.com/video/FMQVxcQYHgw/w-d-xo.html
how do you feel about the 4.3 vortec? I may pick up an 89 S10 Blazer obviously non balance shaft. found long blocks for both non and balance shaft vortec engines around $1,300. Cheaper than parts and machine work depending on shipping would be the only down side depending on how much it offsets my personal times. In that situation do you think you would go wih the long block or build yourself? If I do go with a long block I will get the vortec, carb and intake manifold... Thoughts appreciated..
400 hp is a good power level for a fun street car. Plus for that range the vortec heads are more than adequate. The dodge magnum 360/318 engines fall under the same category for stock heads that work well along with the 302 Explorer suv truck engines that come factory with the better GT40 style heads and intake. Very popular stock performance budget builds. Out of curiosity, how much vacuum does that combo usually pull??
Yeah 400hp is lots of fun! With great reliability and doesn't break the bank This combo will make approx 11 to 12 inches of vaccum if set up correctly. He is using power brakes with the original one I built Cheers!
@@cuttersperformance yeah that's still enough vacuum for power brakes and good signal to the carb preferred intake setup of(my choice) choice for the street, dual plane type performance intake, with a .5 to 1 inch 4 hole carb spacer to keep the carb cool. Thanks.
I have yet to do a 400 with vortecs. Im abit nervous to try because of the 400 hot spots + think deck vortecs. Maybe build a 406 wth the aftermarket vortecs with thick decks and drill some steam holes You would for sure have a torque monster!
That’s what I wanna do lol. I got a fresh pair of the Mexican 906s drilled and reworked for a 400. I got a old wore out .040 400 block and a good rotating assembly and I want to do the same thing.
The rotating assembly is nothing special eagle cast crank stock rods with aftermarket bolts and some cast or hyper flatops whichever one I can find that’s pretty cheap. On the the pistons I have is cracked I need another .040 400 pair for cheap.
Your the third guy thats asked recently about Schneider cams, I haven't personally used them but maybe I should try one? Thanks for the support! Cheers
@@cuttersperformance I new an engine builder in the 80's that used them. That was in dirt track cars though. They're old school. May be old school grinds.
I’ve been planning a budget, 400 horsepower vortec build for a while now. What’s the cost of this build? Ive got the parts I need besides the valve train and intake. I’ve got a 350 block I’m going to bore out .040 over, .040 flat top pistons with the valve reliefs and just a sock crank.
See Im looking to take the vortec heads I have laying around and I want to get the 400sbc my dad has in the corner and get that put together for my 1998 C1500 so I can get a lot more low end grunt than the 350 I have right now. The 350 I have at this moment has less than 250hp (the engine has 430,000 miles so id say it has like 225hp) and I need more than that. I already had to put a new trans in the truck and given Im starting college and I cant afford a new truck so I figure put a nice new engine.
@@crackjack8320 Yeah. I was talkin to my dad about the whole thing given that its his engine i wanted to use and he goes dude dont waste your time. Hes like ok 1. That engine is notorious for overheating issues even when you have a good radiator and you drill steam holes in the heads, 2 its old technology so parts for it are more expensive than like an LS, 3 that trans isnt gonna handle the torque you want to lay down (im shooting for like 550 ft lbs and a 4l60E is pretty notorious to not handle that) and then 4 thats so much time and money to put together a decent motor for a truck thats 23 years old and has a frame starting to rust somethin fierce. He told me itd be best to just buy a new truck and drive the old one till the wheels fall off. And I trust that diagnosis given hes my dad and this is his area of expertise
@@crackjack8320 honestly I think itd be really cool to say I have a 400 in my truck but my truck has a lot of issues at the moment. The frame has seen better days cause its been a michigan truck for the past 10 years and its been used almost everyday of its life. Im just going to say my money and when I get the chance ill buy something new
@@synshenron798 Buy a good rust free used truck from Texas,you can get it shipped cheap if you look around a bit. 47% of the rides on the roads in Texas are pickups! Prices are good and you can get one the way you like it.
@@carlinshowalter1806 I ended up purchasing an 06 GMC Sierra from California. The only thing I dont like about it is that its a V6. I want a V8 in the worst way cause having driven V8 trucks and now going to a V6 stinks. Even turning the AC on sucks power from the engine so much so that you can feel the truck lurch
Love the vortec heads, used my first set in 1999 if I remember correctly paid 420‽ from dealership, had to wait awhile on the intake, machine shop had no idea of what I was doing. Installed with a comp 270 cam and it was and still 20+ yrs later a great engine. Great video thanks
Oh yeah, the stay true comp 270 cam. Great cam on the street and track for sure a very stout 355. Has anyone ever seen the AFR 195 eliminators on a sbc 355 dyno with the comp 270 and 280 magnum cams? They can be very impressive cams with high flowing efficient heads. Then again they are like the baseline cam of all cams. The bar all modern cams are set by.
Do you have any videos of it on your page
can’t build it like you did 20 years ago when u where younger those knees don’t work how they used too god bless
@@rockfordhx2768 You are correct, God bless
I ran this exact setup but with a lunati cam in my s10 and ppl thought I was crazy for claiming it to be right at 400hp. Until they seen how good it ran 😎
Hell yeah man! Race on! 🏁
@@brandonbell8159 - Careful build with this cam and 1.6 rockers should dyno around 435 HP...
For 225.00 I bought heads (906's), manifold and Valve covers. Then had the heads gone through for another 200.00. Did clean up the exhaust ports as mentioned in his other vids. Running similar flat tops with the Felpro .015 gasket. Just over 10:1 compression. No problem on 91 octane. Runs strong in my 65 El Camino.
Thats awesome! Can't get a better set of heads for the money! 👌
Cheers!
I have a set of .062 Vortec heads on my 355 sbc. Paid $200 for them. We magnaflux them and they weren't cracked. Machine shop said 9 out of 10 crack. Still rolling with these heads since 2017, over 100k miles.
I went with hyper .125 dome pistions with .019 shim steal gasket. Have to run at minimum 100 octane fuel. Runs real good!
May need to clearance domed pistons a bit with a newer heart shaped combustion chamber...
What a great combo, simple and cheap. Who could ask for more? Thanks for sharing.
Its simple and it works! Thanks for the positive feedback
Race on! 🏁
@@cuttersperformance So im guessing with that Camshaft you have to run a Stall converter if using an auto trans?
@@lindajones1592 Providing it has low end enough to start moving without hesitation at stall- Depends on your idle while car is in drive. You could get away with a comp 260H10 , 268H10, 270H10, XE262H10, an XE268H10, a 265 deh, XE250H10, XE256H10, The question is, depending on the idle in drive, when does it start to pull through your brakes at a stop sign or red light? And depending on stall and gearing, when does it start to bog off the line under part throttle or even wide open throttle from a stop and shudder at trying to pull the car forward when it cannot get started moving ?. Even though any of these cams could use a stall converter that stalls at near peak or first high area of torque rpm on the dynograph, at the track. Some have used an XE274H10 & vortec heads with stock converter on youtube, even though a 2500 stall works at the track well. They had low idle while in drive tuned well. my opinion is that every cam could use a 2500 converter even a stock one. Also depends on your gearing, The ones using XE268H10 and XE274H10 cams had 3.73 gears. And a red 2nd gen with a 270H10 had 4.10 gears and stock converter. But even if your not moving on your brakes, if it is tugging against your brakes , they are going to be worn out in short order and the hubs too, eaten in a week or 2 or a few days. And the idle will be going crazy like a freight train that doesn't want to stop all the way into the middle and through the intersection, it will tug drag your car there standing on the brakes and even locking up the front tires it will push your car where you don't want to go. And through water puddles, down hills past the stop sign, etc. So stall. You can use a tight nitrous style converter with a high stall speed that is between stall and unstall. This shall allow your car to have neutrality but start moving the car sooner under part throttle and be more efficient than a high stall without this design.
Built this combo with a similar cam. It came to life today! Started for the first time at 5:27pm CST. It sounds AWESOME!
Hell yeah brother! What cam did you use?
EnginePro MC1995. 488/509. 234
O that's a pretty serious cam, I bet it sounds pretty sweet. How much compression are you running?
@@cuttersperformance Best calculation is around 10.3 to 1. I also used a 5.7 liter block so it isn't exactly the 355
Good enough for me I’m in the same boat but stick bottom end
That’s funny I came across somebody building with almost my exact parts list lol nice to know it’s gonna be around 400 hp thanks man
I almost have a'll the parts here and there to build this. Winter project
Awesome videos. Keep pumping these out and I bet you’ll get over 1 million subscribers.
This guy is a Vortec head LEGEND!!! I love those heads on a old school SBC. I am almost done with my 355 now. Next I want to put a set of these heads on a 400 SBC. Not sure what to put it in tho.
Thanks for the info.... Really looking at vortec heads for the motor I'm building. Old 4 bolt main, stock crank.... Maybe new rods definitely going to use the Summit pistons and a flat tappet cam. Really looking forward to your review on different head manufacturers. Keep it up! Thanks again!
Thanks!
Yeesir 🏁🏁🏁
Best engine builder on TH-cam folks listen and learn a lot
Watching your videos is helpful, thinking I may use a similar build to this for my personal project. Already have a decent block with crank and my 062 heads are awaiting the beehive mod, should be a fun winter.
I got a set of 906 heads at a junkyard for 85 dollars and ported them and put summit racing springs in them and got screw in studs for them and they work really good .
Hell yeah! Thats awesome man, if you can find a deal like that on a good set and do most of the work yourself...you can really end up with a really good set of heads for the money
Look like my old 355 .I used aftermarket vortex heads thicker decks, screw in studs. I sold it a few years ago now I got a small block 406 aluminum heads roller cam roller Rockers. I love it much better better. They're like night and day
Dont forget to mention the good old world products sportsman 2 iron head. 200 cc intake runner. Semi cheap but made good power with larger flat tappet cams.
Ima try this glad u show stuff like this I got a 91 s10 ex cab that I got a 350 sbc in it
How about a video on L98 aluminum 113 heads? Doesn't seem like anyone has gone over the old corvette heads.
Start with a good junkyard Vortec L31 and stay with a roller cam. You'll not need to worry about the problems associated with flat tappet cams. Then, down the road step up to good aluminum heads and you'll be at 500+ hp no problem. 👍
Man I love your stuff, and appreciate all the knowledge you share!
Thanks brother! I appreciate that
What head gasket & was the block decked? The customer wanted a Thumper cam CL-12-600-4, adv 279in-297ex, 479in-465ex on a 107 LCA, vortec heads ported with 1.60 exhaust. Block wasn't decked so I'm going with a .015 head gasket to get .043 quench, pistons are the summit 4 valve relief flat tops down about 27 thousands in the bore, gapless 2nd rings, groved lifter bores, behive spring kit, valve guides cut down ect. Airgap port matched with an edelbrock carb. Going to break it in with a known good holley & swap. 2k-5800 is what comp says, with better springs & 1.60 ss exhaust valves...guessing 6k max. He basically wanted the sound but needs the power to move his lifted pickup. Think it will hit 400hp? Guessing your cam builds more tq though...?
I have a combo too. Summit flattop 9 1/2 to 1 . add vortecs. Summit 480 lift cam. Jegs 331 intake. 1 in. Spacer. Stock oil pump. Heavy duty single cloyes chain. HEI high fire distributor. Royal purple oil 30wt. 200 shot of sniff. I did this year's ago then people caught on such as yourself I still have the engine from 18 yrs ago to prove it.
Man🔥 I wanna see that run!
@@kurrentevent I know right, when I ran it, it did low 11. I don't have anything to put the engine in now. It's just sitting in my garage with many other things.
I would like to buy the beehive springs and also your video on how to put the springs on the heads
I've got a 40 over 350 flat tops 288, 480 cam different brand General kennetecs if I remember right. Dual plane with a 600 edelbrock the stock heads are killing me. My brother-in-law is always getting old trucks. I think I will keep my eyes open.
I have a big pile of vortec heads all cracked. Got aftermarket aluminum with 7mm titanium valves
Good info man. I’ll look for a set of those at my pick & pull the next time I’m up there.
I build a .40 350 with flat tops. A comp 270 cam with TBI heads and a performer RPM intake. That engine was a screamer and moved my 3600 lb car like it was a feather. So I can imagine how vortec heads would've done.
I used that comp camp magnum 270 in many street builds. Had a muscle car idle, stock converter worked, had vac for power brakes, and just a decent all-around street cam.
I have a question for you about the comp cams tool that I see used to cut down the valve guides on these heads. The videos I see here on youtube they completely remove the stepped portion of the valve guide. I thought the cutting would be to clear the retainers with higher lift cams? Or are they cutting away the entire stepped portion for another reason like doble sping clearance or what? I was thinking you could just cut down a portion of the guide for retainer clearance but maybe I am missing something??
Got a gen 1 vortec in a 96k1500 I’m building thanks for the vid beautiful.
Hey Pat, really enjoying all your videos, I purchased this same camshaft a little while ago, I am totally on the low budget theme and not ready for a roller just yet. I have a 290 hp crate that I swapped out the heads for Dart ss cast iron with 67cc chambers, and .015 head gaskets, so around 9:1 compression. My question is how do you install that Melling 22301 cam at 2 degrees advance , and does this help out with cranking compression, and low end torque? thanks Kent.
I'd suggest a Howards cam with similar specs but on a 110 or 112 LSA to up the vacuum for brakes. Won't sound as good but, the power will still be there and you'll be able to stop.
108 LSA and just pump the brakes
I bought a set of 062 in 2004; I put 2.02 /1.60 in them because there wasn't much data readily available... Does this negatively impact the flow of the head or is it a "cost vs benefits" scenario.. 2nd, other than gasket matching there was no port work done. Do you have any advice on what I can do to get the most out of these heads? I have 600 lift springs 7/16 screw-in studs guide plates, running 1.6 roller rocker, RPM airgap intake Holley 780 vac second isky RR272/282 hyd roller. All of this sits on a 4 bolt 355 (+.030) with recon factory rods, arp rod bolts & std stock crank. Bear in mind this truck has been killing grass since 2007 (kids, wife, etc etc) it and I are VERY RUSTY.
Also; I'm really enjoying your videos thanks for taking the time to make them!
Does isky and others still rent piston flycutters and seal/seat cutters? Spending 175 bucks on the cutters kind of blows the budget aspect. And paying a shop to cut the seal/seat bosses down does to.
I have a set of original 906 castings that were dealer removed from a 20,000 mile engine that had a rod knock. Plan to try my hand at some basic port work and simply want to do as much of the work that I can on a budget.
Heres a options for not having to cut down the guide bosses on the vortec heads. You can do all the work yourself
th-cam.com/video/FMQVxcQYHgw/w-d-xo.html
Gasket matching is a good thing for intake ports ! 🤷🙋😉
The thing that sucks for me is; I thought I found a unicorn about 30 years ago, when I found a good pair camel humps with bolt bosses for my 69 chevelle. Now I'm wondering if I should tear the top off the engine or just start over.
There is a aluminum double hump head in production now, but most aftermarket heads will out flow them, the tourqe numbers are so good for the street on the vortec heads. I like them.
Sell them to a restorer and get something good.
What about using the vortec roller engines with some roller rockers? More powe? and torque plating helps the heads tremendously from twisting and cracking.
Could you have put in a bigger cam instead of the .480 lift since you have the new beehive springs with lift to .530?
I need a bypass hose from top of water pump into the front of intake ! N block off the 3rd hole in front of block ,all on buget build N i have the 062 heads .
Would have helped to unshroud the intake valve on the side of the combustion chamber .
That is true, pocket porting and valve unshrouding work well on the vortecs
The exhaust seems to be the hold up. At 60% of intake, that's where I would look to add power any way I could.
Question: I recently acquired two 880 blocks with one good set of 062 heads so I’m now on the hunt for 400hp as inexpensively as possible and love this buildup. I am splurging on a Howard’s roller 225/230 @ 050, .500/.510 lift (having the vortecs machined). Do you think the slightly bigger cam will overcome me not cleaning up the ridge on the heads? Also, when I set my combo up for a .040 squish, I’m at 10:1 scr and 8.5:1 dcm with the Howard’s cam. Do you think this will run good on 93 octane?
I always recommend some slight porting on vortecs if your running close to or over .500 lift. The larger cam will help but some pocket porting and some chamber work does wonders.
I think you will be fine with high octane with as long as its kept cool and tune properly. I run 87 on my truck at 10:1 woth vortec heads with no pinging
@@cuttersperformance
Thanks for your vids! You're helping make my dream truck a reality.
I'm reusing the 350 block in my 93 Sierra Z71 but I'm slapping some new performance Vortecs from Clearwater on it (everything is going to the machine shop). Gonna use a low/mid-range flat tappet setup from Comp Cams (12-256-4).
My question for you is what do you recommend for compression ratio? I want to squeeze as much power/torque out of this setup while keeping the smooth idle, strong vacuum, and run it on 87 gas. I'm concerned with 110°F+ summers in Phoenix and detonation. I will also be connecting the intake to the cold air port above the passenger side wheel well.
Cam timing plays a big role in fuel sensitivity (dynamic compression). Basically the later the intake valve closes (more aggressive cam) the more compression you can run on pump.
Being that its a pretty mild cam, I would shoot for around 9.5 to 9.7:1 compression with a tight quench.
You should have no issues on 87 octane as long as it tuned properly
Cheers!
Does removing material and contouring the areas around the ports help improve flow and is it worth it when keeping the fuel injection
Great video.
Would appreciate more info on your spring kits please
Thank you!
Send me a email
pcperformance1@outlook.com
@@cuttersperformance
Interested in spring kit.
Still doing the spring kits?
This is crazy, I am doing the same early 90s roller provisioned tbi block 062 vortecs 50K on it had 193s on it but a set if Mahle flat tops on rods.Only different is I was going to use an 1107 but the Melling is a better idea.
Awesome to hear! like i said in the video, this cam isnt the "perfect cam" but dont let anyone tell you there is such thing as a perfect cam haha
This combination just works...works better than i thought it would. When it hit the dyno i was quite happy for such a basic cheap setup.
Ive seen 383s with aluminum heads make less power to the wheels than this set up did
The 1107 is more of a nitrous cam i believe with a wide LSA.
Summit, Jegs, Melling, and basic level cams from most cam companies all made by same company in S.W. Michigan... so go where price is lowest... currently Jegs...
Summit K1107 is a 500 HP cam and not such a good matchup to Vortec heads that peter out by 425-450 HP... unless modding the heads for all out racing... going 11.5-12.5:1 compression ratio...
Hello Sir, I do have a question what did you use for pushrods and what length?
Keep well and keep the videos coming 👍👍
Why do SBC vortec heads have a tapered inlet ports, but all the after market inlet manifolds have rectangular port runners making it hard to port match.
So I built this engine not realizing the cam is rated to start at 3000 rpm. I have a 71 impala with I believe to be 2.56 gearing. It accelerates like a dump truck and is low on power in the low rpm’s. I didn’t get the 3500 stall converter in fear of burning up the trans cruising. I just wanted a motor I could rip the tires off if I wanted to but could still cruise. I’m now realizing the cam should be something in the lower rpm range. What cut of hydraulic cam to you recommend to keep some low end torque and not have to go with a high stall converter? I want to keep a choppy idle if possible also. Thank for the help.
Photo linked to this vid shows an "062" vortec head but when you rolled the head over later in the vid its actually the 906 vortec head. Everything ive heard is the 906 is the one more prone to cracking and we raced the 062 for multiple years with not problems.
The one in the video is 906 but the original engine combo i built the first time was a 062 head
Love your content thanks for your help
I appreciate the positive feedback! Race on! 🏁
very detailed and informative, except your HP numbers don't match my Vortec engine. I have a L31 Vortec from Jeg's with flat top pistons, 062 heads with a slight porting (236cfm @600) edelbrock 2116 intake stock valves/springs it was engine dyno'ed at 313hp 402tq and 232 chassis dyno. My question is what will the Melling cam #22301 increase my HP to? I'd be happy with 350+/- hp. I'm also running LT1 exhaust manifolds that are port matched/flowed to heads. Sadly it's a 2 bolt main with cast pistons.
Few questions that might help
1) are you running the stock l31 cam?
2) for sure flat tops? L31's have dished pistons normally
@@cuttersperformance Cam Duration @ .050 in.: Intake 191 / Exhaust 194
Cam Lift: Intake 0.414 in. / Exhaust 0.428 in.
Lobe Separation Angle: 112 lsa
Pistons are same as in video
@@frankhershman7253 i recently put a vortec combo into a vette that had a cam similar to yours and it made 317 hp 400+ tq.
You add a larger cam similar to meiling (springs and rockers to support), plus a set of long tube headers you'll be 360+ hp.
Pull those heads, port the exhaust real well or add 1.6 exhaust valves (or both), 1.6 rockers and a 1 inch open carb spacer on that 2116 intake.
375+ hp
@@cuttersperformance sounds like an easy plan. I'll give it a try.
FYI Flow numbers
EX IN
100 51 62
200 96 134
300 137 184
400 155 224
500 164 232
600 169 236
question - have you ever added 4 bolt main caps to a 2 bolt block?
@@frankhershman7253 yeah you can get the 4 bolt caps and have it lined honed but i honesty wouldn't worry about it.
I have a few decently powered two bolts kicking around (1pc rms blocks) one in particular is a vortec headed 355 that was originally build as a decent NA build but now he has gotten me to add a torqstorm supercharger. This thing hauls now! 6500 rpm and pushing 500+hp. Cast crank, pm rods and hyper pistons! Its gone a whole season now without a whimper
Food for thought haha
Also you can get almost 200 cfm out of the exhaust on a vortec with a 1.6 exhaust valves and porting
What's the max h.p. on the vortex head ? I wonder with and without boost?
Not sure you still respond to comments. What would you do with an L98. I was thinking TPI delete and a turbo. Considering the compression is 9 ish to 1
Wow, I wasn't expecting that kind of power, from a "generic" flat tappet grind, at that.
Makes me wonder how a similar budget setup would do using one of the ancient OEM solid grinds. Like the Elgin copy of the LT1 (242/254 @0.050 116 LSA) solid. Cheap and gentle on the valve train.
Have a feeling it'd lose quite a bit of low rpm power.
Yeah I was also surprised when he called me to tell me how happy he was after the dyno... but vortec heads work quite well haha
By the time you take the lash out of the LT1 cam you're down to his hydraulic cam recommendation size...
www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/200105/10002/-1
@@BuzzLOLOL
The Hydro grind may have a more modern lobe design but, the LT1 solid cam (Elgin E904P) is rated at 242/254 @ 0.050" lift on a 116 LSA.
Suggested lash is 0.020".
So, nowhere near 224/234 @ 0.050" on a 114 LSA.
A difference of 15* overlap at 0.050".
It's very possible the JEGS grind would still beat it on a dyno, but the basic numbers don't suggest they'd behave similarly.
The LT1 350 (solid) and L46 350 (hydraulic 224/224) gave almost identical numbers:
www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1001-muscle-car-engine-shootout
www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-1003-classic-chevy-small-block-dyno-testing
@@of_lion22 - The LT1 350 (solid) and L46 350 (hydraulic 224/224) gave almost identical numbers:
www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1001-muscle-car-engine-shootout
www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-1003-classic-chevy-small-block-dyno-testing
Couldn't you use 1.6 rocker arms and gain a bit more?
Yeah for sure you could
So, no work needed on the valve guides?
As far as cutting them down?
Not with my spring kit, up to .580 lift with no machining
@@cuttersperformance This keeps getting better,I cannot wait til I get some issues out of the way and can get back in the shop.THANKS!
@@cuttersperformance really? i always was told and followed anything above 480 or so had to cut the guides down. its easy to do at home with a drill summit sells the cutter.
@@bigsean2473 thats one way to do it but I like to run full size guides with beehive springs
@@cuttersperformance i just didnt know you could get in the 500 without cutting them down
Would pinning the rocker studs be sufficient for a .506" lift Elgin Stage IV cam ?
@cutter’sperfromance did this camshaft provide enough vacuum for power brakes?
I got this same setup in my truck now a .030 bore flatop 350 with vortecs and airgap Intake but mine has a little crane274 cam. I got a question though I got another pair of vortecs that’s fresh and drilled for a 400 sbc I got the whole rotating assembly and a old wore out block to lol. The only thing I need is a pair of .040 pistons for a 400 one of mine is cracked. I was thinking of going with a flatop and was wondering if the compression will be ok on 93 pump gas probably around 11.1. What’s a good cam for that setup that will work with just the comp retainers and ls6 springs. And what is some things I can do to improve power on the heads like porting??
You can get away with 11:1 on pump gas if you keep the Dynamic compression down around 8.2 (cranking psi of around 180). So thats where the cam choices plays the biggest factor.
Some pocket porting would be great idea on those vortecs, I will be making a video on that in the upcoming weeks
Question soak a piston for 30 minutes in purple power it cleaned it, but will it take the coating off? Thank you
My understanding is the vortecs don't like single pattern cams?
Typically the general idea is you want a cam that favors the exhauat on a vortec head. Is that cam the perfect cam? No because there no such thing as the perfect cam but I can tell you this combo works well! 👍
Race on!
I had a question. When I rebuild my 355 sbc what oil do I use to break in the engine ?and is the cam a direct swap or do I need anything else?
Hello Sir, I am building this combo for my grandson. decided on this because i already have most of the parts including a fresh bottom end and a couple of 906 heads I was saving for a someday project. Do you know the part # of the rocker arms you mention? I cant seam to find any that work or that I think will work.
Thanks for all the great info and videos
All the best
Are you looking for 1.52 6 1.6 ratio rocker arms?
@@cuttersperformance You mention 1.52 in the video so ill go with that. I am doing the beehive, screw in stud upgrade on the heads and I've ordered the +.030 valve locks. The cam is the same as you used in the video melling 22301. With a lift of 480/480 the 1.52 ratio should work. Too many choices.
PRW Sportsman Steel Roller Tip Rocker Arms Part# 0835019
Hi should the exh and int valves. be the same height at the spring after you get work done to the heads new valves 2.02 /1.060
Hey pat your forgot to mention which head gasket you ran. Would a steel shin .015 be a good idea or the stock composite .041?
Use a head gasket that will give you between .040 and .045 quench (or piston to head clearance) if you need to run a .015 steel shim make sure you head and deck surfaces are good. But if the block has been decked you shouldn't need a shim gasket
Iv ran two sets of the 062s.on my 350 and 327.thay flow better than the double hump heads.ya there heavy conpaired to aluminum. But to hand port and bolt on ya can't beat um
I need to replace my Hydraulic Lifters out of my 1982 Chevy 350 (ran great) that I am putting a set of 062 Vortec heads out of a 1998 Chevy 350 truck from....do I buy the new hydraulic lifters to fit the 1982 Block or the 1998 Vortec Heads ?
All vortec engines use roller cams/lifters and won't work in your block. Your engine will have flat tappet lifters
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Cheers
@@cuttersperformance
Thanks Pat for the fast reply.. so that I got this straight... I need to buy Hydraulic lifters for my 1982 350 block.... unless I want to switchs to a Roller Cam and lifters/rocker arms.
Yes thats correct but if you switch to a roller cam in that block you'll need a retro fit roller cam, link bar roller lifters, a cam button (stops the cam from walking), and possibly a different distributor gear.
Quite expensive lol.
Flat tappet cams work great but you need to use good lifters, proper break in (very important) and the proper oil (also very important).
Also make sure you get yourself a set if self aligning rocker arms if your switching to vortec heads (unless they have been machined for guide plates)
@@cuttersperformance
Thanks again for all of that info !
Much appreciated !
i believe it, 385HP at the wheels is defiantly achievable with Vortec Heads.
Hey I have a 1990 Chevy 1500 TBI I'm thinking about putting a set of 062 vortec heads but will that hurt the bottom end of the motor in the long run
Say I cannot find these heads what else would be another option to go with???
The heads I got on the truck on the 350 are GM 906 heads they run great. The other fresh pair I have for the 400 are Mexico 906s. I heard there thicker but flow a little less is that true???
I've had the Mexican vortecs flowed and ported and they seemed to flow about the same
Not sure if they are thicker though 🤔
about to build a vortec 350 , where can you find a decent factory style roller with around 230 @50 duration and not give up your left nut for it? only shooting for between 350 and 400 hp for a truck.
I have a rebuilt 327 .030 10/10 on the crank. I doubt the pistons have valve relief. Truck is a manual. I had thought about the Comp Cams magnum kit. I’m thinking your setup may be just perfect and cost quite a bit less. Thoughts?
So with a 327 because of the short stroke you got to make sure you get the right pistons or your going to end up with a low compression ratio.
You could put in a regular flat top and end up with less than 9:1 becuase of the deck height and compression height of the piston
@@cuttersperformance Well I guess I better stick a scope in the hole and see what I have. She runs fantastic and I wasn’t going to do any other work than heads and cam
@@lo1dakota 327 video th-cam.com/video/79WTx0f37wo/w-d-xo.html
What is good about beehive springs? Reduced retainer weight? this engine will never rev high enough for that to matter. I know several people who have grenaded LS engines in the last few years, even expensive builds, and every case was a beehive spring failing. Why put them on a regular sbc when there are well proven conventional springs?
I've used many sets of beehive springs, even the Mexican made GM springs (don't use them anymore) never had an issue. The offer excellent valve control throughout a wide rpm range without really heavy spring pressure.
They work great for on more aggressive flat tappet cams with worrying about wiping the lobes.
They offer a high lift on vortec heads with a single spring and no guide cutting.
There's always different options when building a engine, its all about figuring out what combo works for you
Race on! 🏁
Hey Pat! Don't be hatin' on my $100 heads hahaha. Looking forward to grabbing those valve springs from you soon
Haha! Everyone is jealous of your non cracked vortec heads for $100
Hey pat what's ur email it's not popping up for me I'd love to grab some of those valve springs etc I'm running a 98 vortec 5.7 in my 02 s10 I have 50 bucks in the engine and running a t5 behind it and getting ready to buy a camshaft
i used summit's compression calculator and came up with 10.1 to 1 with .030 over flattop's .020 in the hole and .027 head gasket and 64 cc vortec's
Stock deck isn't gonna see .20 in the hole
Yes I understand, stock is around.025 to .027. I’m just saying if the block was square decked to 9.020 the compression with summit pistons with 6cc valve releif and a .027 thick head gasket comes out to 10.1:1 according to summit calculator. It seems the math is off and it’s important to know what it is
Should be between 9.5 to 10:1 depending on your deck clearance and head gasket thickness
If your shooting for a quench around .050 you will be closer to 10:1
@@Hobo-Henry my pistons on stock deck measured .045.
@@ethanrobinson649 the factory piston pin height for a 350 piston is 1.560 some rebuilder pistons are 1.540 adding a extra -.020 to piston to deck clearance so with a undecked block 9.025 deck height you end up around -.045 in the hole. The math is stroke 3.48 divided by two plus rod lenght 5.7 plus piston pin height 1.560 = deck height 9"
Do you remember the compressed gasket thickness or the piston deck clearance?
I would have used a 501SD Felpro Head gasket on that one
I would have to pull out the build sheet for exact specs
Anything that compresses to .039 like Felpro 1043
As far as deck clearance. Go as close to zero deck on the piston you can. Decking the block helps a lot. Find a good machinist & see what is recommended.
What about running a gear drive , not a chain ? Which is better?
I prefer timing chains but you can use either
im thinking about making a 355 with pop up dome pistons and around 10.5-11 to 1 compression. with the vortec heads. would this combo work? thanks
Check out my latest video 11:1 vortec
th-cam.com/video/uK-qpiFkasA/w-d-xo.html
I know this is an old video. But what part number from summit would you recommend for the pistons? I see they have several styles and CCs listed for a .30 over SBC. Thanks! Or maybe If you have a complete parts list would be nice too. Thanks!
Shoot me a email! Let me know what your looking for
Pcperformance1@outlook.com
Another question Pat ... is the Timing Set really necessary...will my stock 350 timing setup work if I'm adding a milder cam than the one you are suggesting ? Like I said...I'm not looking for 400hp...just a decent running 300hp (or so) 350 for my old 82 Cube Van/Camper ! I already have a Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Lift 0.420 / 0.433 in -
Duration 278 / 288 - 112 LSA Cam I am going to install..
I would highly recommend doing a timing chain of you still have the stock one in there. Lumpy cam + heavier springs just adds more stress to the timing chain
@@cuttersperformance Makes sense... Again... Thanks for your Reply !
@@Snailmailtrucker there really cheap anyway. get a stock one
I have a 99 vortec engine,with 062 heads,is this a good engine to build ,with aftermarket intake and 650 quickfuel carb,for a 94 k1500 chevy.
Yeah a great engine to build from. The block has roller cam provisions so thats a huge bonus.
The stock pistons are dished so maybe some flat tops to bring up compression
But that will depend on how much power and how big of cam you want to run
hey Pat, i know this is an old video but i was wondering how you came up with the compression number of 9.74 to 1? when i run this through a compression calculator assuming 64 cc combustion chambers on the vortec heads and a quench of 45 thou im seeing compression of 10.14 to 1. I was looking to mimic this bottom end and vortec head combo but im worried this will be too much static compression. Am i missing a piece of the puzzle here? its just going into a beat up old squarebody with a manual ao i guess it doesn't really need to make this much power but i dont want to just leave free horsepower on the table either!
Id have to go back on my notes but I believe the quench wasnt ideal.
.012 in the hole.
-7cc piston, .040 (4.100) gasket, with a 64 to 65cc head, should give you around 9.7 to 9.8 or so
@@cuttersperformance hey man thanks a ton! this is super helpful info to me!
What is the biggest cam I can run with a set of vortex 906 heads with the beehive spring set up and be safe ? Thank
Heres a video on how to check for max lift without special tools
Also make sure the seals are all the way down on the guides
th-cam.com/video/FMQVxcQYHgw/w-d-xo.html
Love this combo. What would you recommend for a hydraulic roller camshaft? For simular hp/tq.
Check out my "Saturday night special" engine
It uses a 276 roller cam that will give you similar results
th-cam.com/video/azfEkq1Prto/w-d-xo.html
Saturday night special is the combination I really like 👍
how do you feel about the 4.3 vortec? I may pick up an 89 S10 Blazer obviously non balance shaft. found long blocks for both non and balance shaft vortec engines around $1,300. Cheaper than parts and machine work depending on shipping would be the only down side depending on how much it offsets my personal times. In that situation do you think you would go wih the long block or build yourself? If I do go with a long block I will get the vortec, carb and intake manifold...
Thoughts appreciated..
Personally I haven't done any 4.3 builds. I can't seeing it being much cheaper in the long run but it probably depends on your hp goals ect
What about the l98 aluminum heads that came on the corvette tpi and the zz4 crate engine? How good are they for modding?
400 hp is a good power level for a fun street car. Plus for that range the vortec heads are more than adequate. The dodge magnum 360/318 engines fall under the same category for stock heads that work well along with the 302 Explorer suv truck engines that come factory with the better GT40 style heads and intake. Very popular stock performance budget builds. Out of curiosity, how much vacuum does that combo usually pull??
Yeah 400hp is lots of fun! With great reliability and doesn't break the bank
This combo will make approx 11 to 12 inches of vaccum if set up correctly. He is using power brakes with the original one I built
Cheers!
@@cuttersperformance yeah that's still enough vacuum for power brakes and good signal to the carb preferred intake setup of(my choice) choice for the street, dual plane type performance intake, with a .5 to 1 inch 4 hole carb spacer to keep the carb cool. Thanks.
I need a behive spring for My stock vortec heads with upgraded cam
Would this set up work with a 327 small Journal? block
Can you use the 906 vortec heads?
Yes
I want to do a cheapie motor like this but a 406 with vortecs... make a torque monster
I have yet to do a 400 with vortecs. Im abit nervous to try because of the 400 hot spots + think deck vortecs. Maybe build a 406 wth the aftermarket vortecs with thick decks and drill some steam holes
You would for sure have a torque monster!
Check out the impersonator CHP build
IT'S really really good
That’s what I wanna do lol. I got a fresh pair of the Mexican 906s drilled and reworked for a 400. I got a old wore out .040 400 block and a good rotating assembly and I want to do the same thing.
I’m just trying to find out a good cam choice and maybe some porting or bowl work on the heads idk.
The rotating assembly is nothing special eagle cast crank stock rods with aftermarket bolts and some cast or hyper flatops whichever one I can find that’s pretty cheap. On the the pistons I have is cracked I need another .040 400 pair for cheap.
What's a good timing cover on the vortec with a double roller timing chain set? I have heard of the timing set hitting the timing cover
Man. Gotta love this guy. I'm building a 93 S10 with a vortec 350. I'm dreading buying the roller cam. Anyone ever use Schneider cams.
Your the third guy thats asked recently about Schneider cams, I haven't personally used them but maybe I should try one?
Thanks for the support! Cheers
@@cuttersperformance I new an engine builder in the 80's that used them. That was in dirt track cars though. They're old school. May be old school grinds.
I’ve been planning a budget, 400 horsepower vortec build for a while now. What’s the cost of this build? Ive got the parts I need besides the valve train and intake. I’ve got a 350 block I’m going to bore out .040 over, .040 flat top pistons with the valve reliefs and just a sock crank.
Thats are hard question cause there are huge variables on part prices
But probably $2000+
I tried to asking some questions about spring that you have for sale
This is my email jd30597@gmail.com
@@cuttersperformance l looking for some springs
What length rods did you use with this cam?
And how much are the beehive springs
Hi, i have a 350 tbi with flat tapper, can i instal vortec head with stock tbi pushrod?
See Im looking to take the vortec heads I have laying around and I want to get the 400sbc my dad has in the corner and get that put together for my 1998 C1500 so I can get a lot more low end grunt than the 350 I have right now. The 350 I have at this moment has less than 250hp (the engine has 430,000 miles so id say it has like 225hp) and I need more than that. I already had to put a new trans in the truck and given Im starting college and I cant afford a new truck so I figure put a nice new engine.
@@crackjack8320 Yeah. I was talkin to my dad about the whole thing given that its his engine i wanted to use and he goes dude dont waste your time. Hes like ok 1. That engine is notorious for overheating issues even when you have a good radiator and you drill steam holes in the heads, 2 its old technology so parts for it are more expensive than like an LS, 3 that trans isnt gonna handle the torque you want to lay down (im shooting for like 550 ft lbs and a 4l60E is pretty notorious to not handle that) and then 4 thats so much time and money to put together a decent motor for a truck thats 23 years old and has a frame starting to rust somethin fierce. He told me itd be best to just buy a new truck and drive the old one till the wheels fall off. And I trust that diagnosis given hes my dad and this is his area of expertise
@@crackjack8320 honestly I think itd be really cool to say I have a 400 in my truck but my truck has a lot of issues at the moment. The frame has seen better days cause its been a michigan truck for the past 10 years and its been used almost everyday of its life. Im just going to say my money and when I get the chance ill buy something new
@@synshenron798 Buy a good rust free used truck from Texas,you can get it shipped cheap if you look around a bit. 47% of the rides on the roads in Texas are pickups! Prices are good and you can get one the way you like it.
@@carlinshowalter1806 I ended up purchasing an 06 GMC Sierra from California. The only thing I dont like about it is that its a V6. I want a V8 in the worst way cause having driven V8 trucks and now going to a V6 stinks. Even turning the AC on sucks power from the engine so much so that you can feel the truck lurch
Why didn't you use a dual profile? Not trying to be smart just honestly wondering.
It was just a simple single pattern cam that i had. Turned out to work great 👍
I'm interested in your complete vortec budget set up for 1986 305 engine how do we connect
Don’t waste your money get a 350