Cummins 24 Valve Head Gasket Replacement Tips And Tricks!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มี.ค. 2023
- This isn't a step by step head gasket replacement guide, but rather a series of helpful tips to do this job quickly and effectively. This information applies directly to 1998-2002 Dodge Ram trucks equipped with the 24v 5.9l Cummins engine, although a lot of the information also applies to the earlier 12v engine. As with most tips and tricks, I learned most of these the hard way...
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Idk why im even watching this, i havent owned a 24v for 5 years 😂 but i really enjoyed the whole video. Im Considering getting another 24v and this was very helpful incase i ever need to do this job or take it apart in anyway, you explained it beautifully👌🏻
Woow you are exelent to explain hevry single detail, l will give 100 % you are very good teacher and well take video , my brother God bless you and tanks for cheers your good video
Nice work on the head gasket and beautiful dually Cummins!
For as short as it was i found it very informative and straight up pretty fn entertaining. Thanx for the video man 😊👍
Dude you’re the most positive negative person I’ve met 😂, also I noticed my Cummins was cold blooded when I first bought it, so I bought an aftermarket thermostat thinking the one on was bad, now it runs too hot so I’m going back to oem 😂
Runs too hot? Huh. That’s the first time I’ve ever heard of one doing that. Lol.
Nice job and great tutorial, Sir.
oh yeah great video man it's hard to find videos on these models of trucks I wish you would make more
I will as these projects come along!
I watched through and through. Thank you sir 🙏
Gorgeous rig
Thank You very much for posting this. I had the same external leak. Would anyone advise adding a bit of rtv right at that part?
I have successfully pulled the head following your tips and tricks and it was extremely helpful. Wish you success! Regards
Awesome! No, don’t use RTV or anything else. Just clean the surfaces well and install the new gasket.
Great video minus not doing a valve set, ALWAYS check valve lash, just because it’s quiet doesn’t mean they’re set properly. Good way to burn valves out.
They’re notoriously loose from the factory too. Yeah, they should be done at the same time.
God your commentary is pure amazing
That’s not always the response I get 😅 but thanks.
good video!
Actually found that pretty interesting. Really glad that my Ram has a Hemi now lol. Yes, Mustang II guy also owns a Dodge!
Oooohhh… I guess you haven’t seen my third Gen hemi videos 😅
@@DeadDodgeGarage Lol!! You know, I don't think I have. And now I'm scared and don't want to lol.
I hope this one gets lots of views.
Me too, but not holding my breath. Lol.
Even watching this vid- at first I heard idling diesel engine in my head. 26 years- I am damaged.Haha!
That looks like way too much fun. 🔧
You made that look easy
Honestly it isn’t that hard - except for the heavy ass head.
Thank You much..
Hello 5.9 Owners. I can feel your pain if you are here to find the "FIX" your looking for and our DDG host is doing a great job! but there is something I really need to add and let you all in on something from my personal fails. I will make this as short as possible.... bear with me. The head gasket was later redesigned to avoid this issue but it still happens. Why you ask? My advice is this. He did mention the head bolts (cap screws) but at least use the Cummins plastic service gauge tool # 3164057 to check the stretch of the bolts before you reuse them, it is a go, no-go and for less than 10 bucks why wouldn't you do this? At least for peace of mind, do it. I agree the bolt torque is an issue but don't overdo it and break the head (just kidding) or what is bad (seriously) is stripping a/the holes in the block and it can happen. Consider studs but it is spendy but safer. Make SURE the holes and bolts are cleaned and oiled, use a tap and die for this, trust me. That said.... He already explained the failure and clearly showed all of us the failure of the gasket material itself where the water jacket is. The material is literally gone, and this is exactly how it looks every time it fails. See how there is no orange sealer at the outer edge? Here is the one step to fix this.
Permatex makes a resin sealer, Aviation #80019. Use this around and just inside all of the ports (conservatively)...but more specific, if you look at the front water port in the head, it is huge, and the block only has a hole. What happens over time is the gasket breaks down from the hole, gets saturated, and at the very outer edge, starts coming apart. You clearly see that happening right? Where do you think that gasket material goes?? So, within that area of the orange seal, the very edge of the seal jacket and the outer corner lip, head and block, seal it with that aircraft sealer. That resin helps hold the gasket material all together. So basically, coat the whole corner top and bottom. Same goes for the rear corner drivers side. Obviously, the bare gasket breaks down and it does not stick to the metal sandwich. The gasket eventually gets wetter and saturated on that thin outer lip once it is gone and that is when it blows out. Whatever your take is...putting that dry gasket on there is only asking to do this again. Buy some of this sealer, and work with it before you make a choice to use it if you will, but ONLY use the aviation #80019. If you don't, make plans to start over and use the sealer next time. Hope this adds to an already well-known failure. One more quick tip from the video not related but caught my eye is to move the turbo oil line from hanging over the exhaust manifold. Route it around the other side of the turbo to keep it cooler, it will fit. One last thing to add. You know if you have the new gasket design by looking at the edge of the gasket by the water port. The new design has a metal tab on it. You can see in the video that he took off an older design and the new one he installed has the tab... see for yourself.
Have you ever used one of those cooling system fillers that vacuums the system it's a time saver never had an air pocket with one
They look awesome but I somehow never spent the money. The old fashioned way has worked pretty well for me so far.
Awesome
I’ve got a coolant leak from the exact same area no coolant or oil mixing would it be a cool idea to send the head to a machine shop or would it be fine?
I’ve never had a Cummins head checked or machined. If your gasket comes out in pieces, the problem is self evident. Having it checked is a good idea - because apparently at least 24v heads are known to crack.
I have an odd question, I pulled my head off today and put a new gasket on, the surfaces were prepped and dry, the head was dripping a little coolant when I was putting it back on the block. After I set the head on the block, I took an hour break. I came back to torque the head studs and noticed a little coolant being “pinched” out the side of the head and block mating surface from being torqued. I assume a little coolant was dribbling out of the head onto the Headgasket while it was sitting on the block in that hour time before I torqued it all down. Will this be an issue for me? Should I buy another Headgasket and reinstall? Thanks and I liked your vid!
Ah, crap. Well that’s not ideal. It miiight be fine… but the coolant will likely keep the coating on the head gasket from sealing right in that area. I just can’t say to what extent that may cause a problem down the road. Personally, I might well run it - with the obvious knowledge that I may be changing it again in the future. But in a perfect world, that wouldn’t be there.
Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it!
I just replaced a head gasket on my 24v and was wondering since i adjusted my valve lash, i tried turning over my truck with the lines cracked, it spit fuel out of all the lines, i then tightened them and i start it and the truck only wants to run at around 500 rpm… kinda odd since this one just started right up , mine is starting a little rough and running rough on it’s own at around 4-500 rpm, wondering if you’d have any answers on what to do.
Where did you set the lash? If you spit out enough fuel to start, it should be enough to rev up and run normally.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I used the alternator pulley method and used the breather on the front cover to see where TDC is.. after i did .10 for intake and .20 for exhaust, i did the remaining few I didn’t do, went to crank it over and it ran very very ruff, like i said only around 500 rpm.. mind you i did new injectors and push rods during the entire head gasket procedure, even also had the head resurfaced, but not by a lot.. everytime i go to start it after bleeding/priming the lines which i’ve only done once, it runs like crap, and i’m sitting here scratching my head because it should fire and go up to where it should be at idle no problem, but right now i’m at a dead end and don’t know what to do.
Same over here 🇬🇧, no hoist only 💪🏻 arms, good job I is A R D 😂, all the best,🍺🍺🍺 CHEERS BIG EARS.
Is there a fuel return line/bandjo bolt that needs to be removed from the back of the head?
Yes! Did I not mention that? I thought I did. It’s 17 MM I believe.
Thank you for easing my mind. My 02 24v HO is due for the same exact repair, for the same reason. Coolant leaking out the front passenger corner of the head gasket. You really helped me with the visuals and confidence that it would likely not need resurfacing at this time due to the fact it is just an external gasket leak on 1 corner. What is your opinion on copper spray gasket with a new 9522PT fel pro? I have seen many people suggest using it without question. but others say reserve it only if you see excessive pitting on the mating surfaces. I would like to think it could benefit the front corners from producing another external leak but could be wrong. Thanks!
The leak seems to be caused by the gasket slowly disintegrating. I don’t think the copper coat will prevent that. The gasket is Teflon coated, and should generally be installed as is. I agree that the copper coat can be helpful in less than ideal sealing conditions, like in case of pitting. I have used it when reusing gaskets - with good results. I’ve done a handful of these and have never resurfaced a Cummins head. I think it’s fine. Haha.
Thank you so much for the reply! I appreciate the insight and am very glad to hear your insight on this. That makes sense the more I'm researching what you said. I think I will do exactly as you have and make sure the mating surfaces are spotless and should be good to go for years to come. (Basically stock, tow rig). You have given me the courage to execute this job, hope I can get to it this weekend. @@DeadDodgeGarage
I noticed you said that the head studs are under torqued from the factory. Does that intel that you reused the old head studs?
They are head bolts, not studs, and they are absolutely reusable in just about all cases on these engines.
I apolagize i noticed my mistake after the fact. Thank you for the quick response.
is there a mileage the injector should be replaced before they break the chips off what's the recommendation what I find online is 50 to 100,000
The injection pump? I feel like that’s what you’re talking about. There’s no telling, really. With an upgraded fuel feed/lift pump that makes enough pressure to hold the bypass valve open, it may stay cool enough to live for a long time - or it may not. I do know that many pumps had issues by 100k, and that most have already been replaced once. But there’s no telling when it will happen.
Did you reuse the head bolts? And if you did! Did you have any problems with them?
I *always* reuse Cummins head bolts. Zero problems.
@DeadDodgeGarage wow you replied fast!!! Thanks for that!! Ok I think I'll reuse mine then! Thanks man!
Working in light duty diesels in passenger trucks looks like a pain. Especially the new stuff. ESPECIALLY the v8 ones. It makes me glad that I just work on class 8 trucks where everything is easy to get to. Just.... Heavy.
Right. As long as you have a fork lift or a crane you’re fine. Haha. I don’t even want to talk about diesel V8s… ok, the Duramax isn’t that bad.
I know this is head gasket Content, but have you heard of coolant leaking from the tappet cover?
No - there should be no coolant in there. It has to be streaming down from somewhere else, hitting the cover, and leaking off from there.
how did u take the fuel injection lines out
It’s kind of a huge pain. Remove hold down bracket bolts at engine. Loosen nuts at injectors, with #2 and #6 being the worst to get with a wrench. Loosen nuts at injection pump, starting with the easiest to get a wrench on. The lines are bracketed together in two sets of three, so I remove the set that is more on top of the other on the pump first, then finish loosening the other lines and remove them. I have a couple different styles of wrench, and find one with a very offset end the most useful. Good luck.
One of these days I'll have a Dodge Cummins
I love them! I’m on my fourth actual driving one I think.
Sometimes its just the oil cooler right there leaking coolant not the head gasket
Yes. I had that gasket leaking on my ‘99 24 valve truck, and that was our first guess on this one. No such luck though.
What head gasket did you use for this? Thanks
Felpro! I’ve never used anything else. Just your standard Felpro head gasket set.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks , you wouldn’t happen to have the part number would you. Every felpro set I find looks nothing like yours.
@@kennethrice4259 fairly sure it's FelPro HS9522PT
Thanks, going to try that one. That gasket shows for a 97 to 02. I’m working on a 06. Already done job with new head and
Combustion is getting in coolant as soon as you crank it. Same problem it was originally having before job. This gasket looks like it will seal better.
@@kennethrice4259 Ah - No, for that application you would need HS26216PT. Many things are different, although the head gasket itself should be the same. Wait, so even with a brand new head it's doing this? Wow. You likely have a cracked block. That's unfortunate. A bad gasket really can't leak badly enough to do that - and a brand new gasket, even more so.
Oooooh deezul stuff 🦧
Truck only had 147k on it
Mine leaks oil out of the left side almost mid block. I’m suprised it’s not in the rad but I’m happy is not. I have to do this same thing and not looking forward to it. When you work on everyone else’s stuff all day you don’t really like working on your own.
Yep… I never, ever want to have to work on my own normal daily driver junk…
I could swear my '98 (not 98 1/2) 12 valve has a primer pump in the vacinity of the fuel filter🤔.
Absolutely - 24v (which has an electric lift pump) does not have that, but 12v does. VE pump engine has a small lever, and your P pump engine has a plunger / button. It’s hard to reach and annoying to use. I have spent way too much time trying to prime and bleed the fuel system on a p pump truck that has run out of fuel. It’s much easier to prime the 24v.
I put a cummins head on my mill by hand once
That sounds horrible…
I think you're too much of a perfectionist on burping the cooling system, I just leave the radiator cap off, start the engine, and get out of the way so I don't get hit by the gush of water that inevitably comes out lol
The problem is, the Cummins will basically never heat up enough sitting there running to do that! Been there, tried that… and on other stuff, you brim the rad and start it, and as coolant and air in the system heat up it expands, shoves half a gallon of coolant into the fan and onto the floor and everything else… been there, done that a thousand times too! 😅 so these days I pre fill ‘em