Excellent video! One important caution. Since this is a large surface, wind will easily topple the structure. I fixed that by building stabilizers on each side to bear the load of wind resistance. In addition, I made it 10 degrees slope which is very similar to real playing conditions. 15 degrees gives too much of an arc.
"building stabilizers on each side"...? I had the same concern about the wind issue. Can you elaborate on the stabilizers? Are they weights? I also agree with the 10 degrees slope. Thanks!
The stabilizers are 3 feet long 4x4 lumber coming at 30 degrees angle. However they only lasted 1 year and a powerful storm tipped it over. Now I have put sand bags and rocks at the behind. I am going to reinforce it with two ropes tied to trees. The issue with any of these designs is that center of mass is quite elevated and it is quite easy to tip it over. The large surface area creates too much torque with high wind. But you can’t tie it to tennis court fences as the structure is too heavy and can bend the fences
@@seckinozdamar8638 About tieing off to tennis fencing …. If weight is on horizontal base, do you mean that in a high wind it could harm the fencing if tied to it? I ask because it seems I see structures like these attached to fencing all the time. Is it the angle that is the issue?
@@karenrotzler1661 update. Stabilizers on the side did not work. After a heavy storm, the board got knocked off again. I did two things afterwards. First, I used a rope to tie the board from the top back to a tree outside the court. Then I built a platform on the back of the board and put a dozen cement blocks (probably 30 lbs each). With these two, so far no tumbling. To your question. I don't think the angle is the issue. It won't matter as much between 8 to 15 degrees. Attaching to a fence is a good idea but make sure that it is super strong. The last thing you want is to bend your fence. If you are curious, please send your email and I can send you the pictures of how I did it
Any way you can introduce some sound dampening to this design or is it basically dependent on the material which you are using for the backboard, in this case plywood. Rally Master achieves sound dampening by - "Our patent-pending vibration dampeners and mounting technique substantially reduce rebound noise. Decibel readings indicate that a tennis ball hitting a Rally Master Backboard is no louder than a tennis ball hitting a tennis racket, and even quieter than a basketball being dribbled on an asphalt court." Could solid-core, dense plastic be used instead? Would it be cost-prohibitive? Thanks.
Your question is really good. To be honest I’m not sure what material could be added to reduce the noise. I suspect that the if you add ½” plywood to the back of the 2x4 that much of the noise would be mitigated as the sound would get “trapped” within the cavity which the 2x4’s create. Let me know what you decide to do.
I’m in the process of making this now with 4 sheets of 3/4” 4x 8 plywood. Do you or anyone have any tips or changes you would make? I plan on putting wheels on mine and it will be outside all the time in S. Fl weather. I’m also thinking about putting hinges on it in case I need to break it down.
Hi, thank you very much Tom! Just want to ask how depth (long) should you stand away from the wall? I have a garden 14 m long, wander if this is enough to return a bounced back ball
I have a different design in mind, but this looks great too. I would love to hear how your wall sounds when hitting. Also did you consider an adjustable angle?
I didn't get around to filming the wall in use (next time). It does have a very solid sound to it though. I didn't consider an adjustable angle wall. The wall lives outside in the winter; the snow and ice would have done a number on any hinge hardware.
Board looks great. I was wondering what kind of nails and screws you put it? I presume you lay down the 2x4s and then the plywood and measured to put in the screws. My plywood is wavy I am worried some of my nails or screws will miss the 2x4, is there a trick? Did you cover the holes with anything? Did you fill any imperfections in the wood? Are the boards only attached at the upper bolt? Do you plan to take it down during the winter? thanks
I used 2” deck screws and 2” nails. I started by marking the plywood 12” on center for the 2x4, then I added glue to the 2x4’s and put them on the top of the plywood, I screwed each end of the 2x4’s then flipped the plywood over and used my nail gun to nail the 2x4’s to the plywood. (I cut a few scrap spacers so I was sure that the 2x4’s were parallel and in the right place). I didn’t cover the holes because I had 3 coats of paint (primer, plus 2 coats). The plywood panels are screwed to the 4x4’s at the edges. I’ve left it up over the winter -without covering it - I’ll see how many years it lasts.
Thanks for posting this video. I'm getting ready to make one myself and had a question and a comment: In the comments, you mention nailing the 2x4s to the plywood from the front (plywood side). Any reason you used nails instead of screws for this? I think the list of supplies is missing a 2"x3"x12'. The drawing shows three of these but the list only includes two.
You can certainly use screws that would work great. I started with the back side of the plywood up, marked the 12” lines then added my exterior glue to the 2x4. I put a screw in each end then I flipped the sheet over and used my pneumatic nailer from the front. You are correct there are 3 - 2x4x12’ pieces.
@@LubaLuba1 I don't think solidworks is easier to learn. I'd say they are about the same. Sketchup is a great free tool however. I've also heard really good things about www.onshape.com. I believe it is also free and functions very similar to Solidworks. Best of luck!
I wish there is at least a demo of he end product!!
Excellent video! One important caution. Since this is a large surface, wind will easily topple the structure. I fixed that by building stabilizers on each side to bear the load of wind resistance. In addition, I made it 10 degrees slope which is very similar to real playing conditions. 15 degrees gives too much of an arc.
"building stabilizers on each side"...? I had the same concern about the wind issue. Can you elaborate on the stabilizers? Are they weights? I also agree with the 10 degrees slope. Thanks!
The stabilizers are 3 feet long 4x4 lumber coming at 30 degrees angle. However they only lasted 1 year and a powerful storm tipped it over. Now I have put sand bags and rocks at the behind. I am going to reinforce it with two ropes tied to trees. The issue with any of these designs is that center of mass is quite elevated and it is quite easy to tip it over. The large surface area creates too much torque with high wind. But you can’t tie it to tennis court fences as the structure is too heavy and can bend the fences
@@seckinozdamar8638 About tieing off to tennis fencing …. If weight is on horizontal base, do you mean that in a high wind it could harm the fencing if tied to it? I ask because it seems I see structures like these attached to fencing all the time. Is it the angle that is the issue?
@@karenrotzler1661 update. Stabilizers on the side did not work. After a heavy storm, the board got knocked off again. I did two things afterwards. First, I used a rope to tie the board from the top back to a tree outside the court. Then I built a platform on the back of the board and put a dozen cement blocks (probably 30 lbs each). With these two, so far no tumbling. To your question. I don't think the angle is the issue. It won't matter as much between 8 to 15 degrees. Attaching to a fence is a good idea but make sure that it is super strong. The last thing you want is to bend your fence. If you are curious, please send your email and I can send you the pictures of how I did it
Very nice. Have you considered attaching wheels?
Great Video but.......how about a complete , nuts, bolts, etc.material list?
Doing this this weekend. Do you think I could use concrete deck blocks as the base?
Any way you can introduce some sound dampening to this design or is it basically dependent on the material which you are using for the backboard, in this case plywood. Rally Master achieves sound dampening by - "Our patent-pending vibration dampeners and mounting technique substantially reduce rebound noise. Decibel readings indicate that a tennis ball hitting a Rally Master Backboard is no louder than a tennis ball hitting a tennis racket, and even quieter than a basketball being dribbled on an asphalt court." Could solid-core, dense plastic be used instead? Would it be cost-prohibitive? Thanks.
Your question is really good. To be honest I’m not sure what material could be added to reduce the noise. I suspect that the if you add ½” plywood to the back of the 2x4 that much of the noise would be mitigated as the sound would get “trapped” within the cavity which the 2x4’s create. Let me know what you decide to do.
I’m in the process of making this now with 4 sheets of 3/4” 4x 8 plywood. Do you or anyone have any tips or changes you would make? I plan on putting wheels on mine and it will be outside all the time in S. Fl weather. I’m also thinking about putting hinges on it in case I need to break it down.
If you could share some pics or video, that would be great. I am looking to put wheels on my design, as well.
This is great. Would it be possible for you to provide a link to the drawings?
I would really appreciate this too!
I'm looking into this. I will try to have the drawing uploaded in a day or two.
Fix It Tom Thank you
I've added a link to the description of the PDF of the drawings. It is also here: bit.ly/359i6Y4. Let me know if it works or not.
Not able to open the file to drawings.
any demo on how you used it?
Hi, thank you very much Tom! Just want to ask how depth (long) should you stand away from the wall? I have a garden 14 m long, wander if this is enough to return a bounced back ball
I have a different design in mind, but this looks great too. I would love to hear how your wall sounds when hitting. Also did you consider an adjustable angle?
I didn't get around to filming the wall in use (next time). It does have a very solid sound to it though.
I didn't consider an adjustable angle wall. The wall lives outside in the winter; the snow and ice would have done a number on any hinge hardware.
Board looks great. I was wondering what kind of nails and screws you put it? I presume you lay down the 2x4s and then the plywood and measured to put in the screws. My plywood is wavy I am worried some of my nails or screws will miss the 2x4, is there a trick? Did you cover the holes with anything? Did you fill any imperfections in the wood? Are the boards only attached at the upper bolt? Do you plan to take it down during the winter? thanks
I used 2” deck screws and 2” nails. I started by marking the plywood 12” on center for the 2x4, then I added glue to the 2x4’s and put them on the top of the plywood, I screwed each end of the 2x4’s then flipped the plywood over and used my nail gun to nail the 2x4’s to the plywood. (I cut a few scrap spacers so I was sure that the 2x4’s were parallel and in the right place). I didn’t cover the holes because I had 3 coats of paint (primer, plus 2 coats). The plywood panels are screwed to the 4x4’s at the edges. I’ve left it up over the winter -without covering it - I’ll see how many years it lasts.
Thanks for posting this video. I'm getting ready to make one myself and had a question and a comment:
In the comments, you mention nailing the 2x4s to the plywood from the front (plywood side). Any reason you used nails instead of screws for this?
I think the list of supplies is missing a 2"x3"x12'. The drawing shows three of these but the list only includes two.
You can certainly use screws that would work great. I started with the back side of the plywood up, marked the 12” lines then added my exterior glue to the 2x4. I put a screw in each end then I flipped the sheet over and used my pneumatic nailer from the front.
You are correct there are 3 - 2x4x12’ pieces.
Thank you very much, Tom! What software did you use to create the drawing and the virtual prototype?
I used solidworks.
It seems to me that 8 - 4x4x' are needed, not 6
Hi, I actually bought 6 and then cut 2 in half to get the full 8 needed.
What did you do this on sketchup?
The 3D model was actually completed on Solidworks. I'm not very good at using sketchup yet.
@@fixittom Is solid works easier? is it free too?
@@LubaLuba1 I don't think solidworks is easier to learn. I'd say they are about the same. Sketchup is a great free tool however. I've also heard really good things about www.onshape.com. I believe it is also free and functions very similar to Solidworks. Best of luck!
Show someone hitting with the wall….
A week !!?? Lmao a couple hrs is all it takes if you have the tools