I got my 347 stroker kit from Coast High Performance 15 years ago. The wrist pin in the oil ring problem was already solved way back then. The kit consisted of a new Crank. Forged Probe pistons and rods, rod and main bearings. I also bought a roller cam and lifters they recommended and a main cap girdle. They also recommended AFR 185 heads. They estimated 430 hp. It's been running like a scalded dog for 15 years with no problem.
That's a great way to go. You'll never regret it. I have a 351W in my 65, and it has always fought with me. Maintenance is always a challenge due to the really close quarters.
I've been watching your videos for a while now and you have helped me do the front disc brake conversion and the t5 swap on my fairlane. Thank you for the effort to make the videos for the car peoples.
All I have left to do is to figure out how to actuate the clutch. Unfortunately I don't have the clearance room under the dash to make the cable setup work.
Sounds like a plan. I also feel like when you go bigger displacement, not everything has to be radical in its approach. There's an objective cushion for reliability and performance. Well thought out Andy. Fun to watch!
Good plan Andy. My 66 coupe came with a 302 that someone swapped in at some point. A couple months after I got it I spun a cam bearing...so...time for a rebuild. Went with Edlebrock topend kit, Comp cam and lifters, went .20 over on pistons and .10 under on crank. Engine is sitting on stand waiting for the rest of the car to be finished. Looking forward to your progress.
I'm where you were at. Thanks for the video. Good luck though I think you're gonna be way satisfied with doing the 347 stroker. I'll be doing my 67 this late winter/spring 2023.
Hey Andy! Troubling shoot leaks etc is an art. After you pulled the motor, you nailed the problem and traced that oil flow down the from the head gasket and down the pan rail back to the rear main seal area. Good patience and good job. Now, having sold my 85 gt hatchback with a built 347, I have to say I loved that build. Over 400 hp N/A, Fast and dependable. Great street motor. I now have the 67 Gt coopay with the monster built 460 in it. Would gladly go back to a small block for room and space and ease of working on a small block. So, all in all, great choice. Can't wait to see the progress steps of the build. Love and blessings to you and yours from Motown/Dearborn. Oh I forgot to say, my 347 was a hydraulic roller motor paired with a 5 speed T-5 and 3:73 gears. Holley 650 Carb.
I might have to do a video on that leaky 289, it would be great to confirm it's problems, just in case someone else has the same issue. Excited for the 347, time is moving really slow right now. :)
Awesome Andy! That’ll be a fun project! I’ve got a mystery leak out the back too. Replaced the rear main (last guy left the pin in and installed a rubber seal), did head gaskets, thread sealant on the bolts… everything that the internets recommend. Still leaks. Albeit less now. It’s hard not to feel defeated. Between the oil burning and leaking, I’m at a quart every fill-up. But hey, after 3000 miles, the oil still looks brand new! …cause…you know…it is.
Hopefully you're able to diagnose the source of the leak, but if you're blasting through a qt every tank of gas, there's a much bigger problem lurking in there. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh, I know where the oil is going. It’s being used to perform magic. Every time I pull away from a stoplight, the car behind me mysteriously disappears in a cloud of blue smoke. She’s DONE IN. But it still gets me to work and back without a complaint or stumble.
Did you put loctite on flywheel bolts? Oil can come out of those on some crankshafts. I would check and see if the threads run through into the motor. They don’t on all motors, but is a good habit to put loctite sealer on those bolts. Orange permatex works well and doesn’t need heat to remove. Could explain part of rear main seal leak area. (if the crankshaft bolts go all the way through.) Flywheel is 85 ft lbs. Haynes manual for these cars has good info and leaves tips for where you should put extra gasket maker, etc. Like on the coolant ports around the intake gaskets
@@AndyKruseChannel This was the cause of my oil leak, looks like rear main seal and drips right down to it, but it was no locktite on the fly wheel bolts
jeff david what year 351w heads do you have? did you do any port work on them? I have a pair of 70 351w heads i'm going to put on my 289. Not planning to do any port work and wondering what hp increase will get, if any. Did you also go with higher compression pistons?
@@61chip72 Early stock 351W heads (69-72). Had engine rebuilt at race shop back in 1981. Don't know about port work. Compression @ 9.7:1. You could go higher. Runs fine on todays premium gas. Lots of info online about this head swap.
I put a 331 in my 65 based on a roller block from a 98 Explorer. Those extra cubic inches are really nice! I'm curious to find out what you plan on doing for heads in this latest adventure.
Andy I have exactly the same issue in exactly the same places. I have a rear main seal and was thinking of ordering a new oil pan. What has stopped me is that I believe that my oil leak is coming from where the block meets the heads, exactly where you point out. To add to this my 289 is less than thrilling to drive. I am now looking at a fully dressed 302 from Summit. It's 300 HP which a lot better than what I have currently. Most of my driving is mild so 300 HP will be more than fine. Weird that we are seeing the exact same issue. Oil leaks suck. Oh, I know that you put in a 347 Stroker. I think you're happy now. How does the car feel now?
If it's in the budget, try to swing for a 347, that extra 125HP is a game changer. If that is just too much, see what upgrades you can do the engine (internally) so that you can add power mods done the road and the engine is good for it. However, a fresh 302 will likely be 50% more power than you're making now, so it might be enough. The car is getting better all the time, slowly dialing in the various pieces to make it all work. :)
Well, typically when you replace the bearings there is a good chance it would burn less oil. Mainly due to the rings no longer banging into any ring ridge. Then replace the valve seals (doable without pulling the heads). Prolly lots of good miles left in it.
I'm a 331 CI guy just for the little better rod geometry but the 347 are nice! The T5 sounds like you need to add a cluster gear support plate. PM me and I will give you the heads up on it.
I think the 331 might be the better choice if you plan to spend you time in the upper rpm range, but I want some of that lower grunt that the additional displacement offers. I installed that cluster gear support plate when I rebuilt the trans, but that is a conversation for a later time. :)
Hi Andy, my 66 289 is weeping oil around the heads too; I just assumed it was the head gasket. My 289 is also pretty tired and ready to retire. I am thinking I will get a fresh rebuilt 302 (306) with GT-40P heads to replace it. Love the videos.
How awesome! I word of advice, I have a 347 in my 65 and cooling it was harder with the small 17 inch radiator. Upgraded to the 24 inch radiator and I’ve never had cooling issues. Downside is you’ll have to fab the front end to make it fit. Also, I went with a T5 just like you but I’m not content. I feel like first gear is useless with my motor. If I had to do it again, I’d go with a 4 speed top loader. Good luck!!
Not sure that the T5 is useless, but likely the gear ratios you have are not ideal. The Top Loader can have different ratios just like the T5. Also, the rear gear in your Third Member can play a role in how short your gearing can be. For example, a 4.11:1 ring gear can make almost any first gear useless in any transmission. Going back to the T5, the unit I have has the shorter first gear than the more common T5s (I believe mine is 3.35:1) and I have thought about replacing it but it will require more than just the gear to do the swap. Anyways, what I'm saying is don't give up on your T5 as that 5th gear really does make it nice when you need to go highway speeds, and synchros are so nice to have once you get used to them. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks! I don’t think the t5 is useless, just maybe first gear as is with stock specs and a 347. Are you going to keep your stock radiator with the upgrade?
@@AndyKruseChannel love your videos. Can’t wait! I forgot to mention one thing about the oil leak you found. I had the same issue. Changed rear main seal and to the exact same oil pan gasket one piece and it kept leaking out the back. After changing it twice following ur video, I noticed that the curved ends of the gasket didn’t make a nice seal around the pan. I always had about a time small slack. I switched to the four piece and the two curved gasket ends sealed up perfectly and my leak is gone.
The other choice is a 351 Windsor engine. Its the same external size as the 289/302 and bolts right onto the trans and engine bay. The other good news is you dont have to deal with the problems if the Cleveland which has a number of issues.
I was suggesting the 351 Windsor. The only change from the 302 is a stronger block that is a little taller than the 302. It fits in just fine. I had one in my 1970 mustang, it made great power and no issues with getting it in the engine bay compared to the 302. Now if you go to the 347 or the 351W you’ll need a 9 inch rear end to take the power of either one. Also the trans you have is only rated for 300 ft lbs torque. Not sure it will stand up to either one of these engines making full power. Looking forward to seeing what you do. I still vote for the Windsor because of the stronger block. Also you can stoke it our to a 383 or a 427 if you wanted. Now that would be a beast. You can buy them from Jegs all done in many different versions and horsepower 👍👍👍
Hey Andy thanks for all of the videos. You have helped me so much. Question have you changed the motor mounts with the engine in? Have searched all over and not many videos charging motor mounts with engine in. I have a 65 coupe with 302 , 4 speed top loader. Thanks again.
Sorry Boss, I have not changed the mounts on any of my classic Mustangs, I just haven't needed to do them yet. However, I do know that getting a stock style mount to fit the early cars can be tricky as I believe they stopped making the early mounts? I don't recall the exact details, but I do recall people having trouble making the mounts they can buy fit. That being said, when I do plan to upgrade/replace the mounts, I will be buying some Ron Morris Motor Mounts. Maybe take a peek at those? :)
Many thanks. I have the mounts from CJs. It looks pretty straight forward just looking for thoughts on supporting the engine from below. Most say just use jack under oil pain with lice of wood. Will give it shot and will let you know
My 289 is tired. Built in the 80s. I am trying to decide the best bang for my buck... I know I have a bunch of options. If you stroke this, do you have to change out the tranny? Anything to the body to assist with the added ponies?
It depends on how extreme you go with the motor build that will determine what you need to do. The power I plan to make will be at the limit of my T5, and even then I might need to keep an eye on things. My 8” rear will likely be the weak link after the motor build. But I should be fine if I don’t do 6k clutch drops. And no chassis changes will be needed for what I’m doing.
Hey Andy make sure and put together a good well matched combo that makes decent compression 10 to 1 or better. and a good cam and heads, Not every 347 is created equal ;-). Get good parts don't be thrifty or cheap on parts ( AFR, trick flow etc....) build it once! and be done. ive had 289s 302s 347s 363s a well built 347 will roast tires all day and be a reliable FUN motor in a 5 spd fastback all day everyday.
I won't give away the goods yet, but this build will not be full of the most expensive parts nor will it be full of Black Friday Deals, if you know what I mean. I have faith in the build and my Engine Builder. :)
I would like to do the RPM, but the budget is keeping me with the current intake. But that's ok, it will give me something to upgrade to down the road. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yes another video! Keep up the great work Andy. I enjoy your channel. A lot of relevant information as I have a 69 Fairlane with 302
Hi, On my '66 Mustang I've decided to replace my worn out 289 w/ a new BluePrint ford 302 c.i.d. 300 hp dressed engine. Do you have any advice, what do you think of the 302?
That 302 will be a great upgrade over your tired 289. This is one of those times that’s easier to make decisions relative to your build and any future plans you might have. It’s easy to get carried away with upgrading your parts for even more power before you finalize your build, so keeping your budget in mind is solid advice. While your engine is out, it’s a great time to clean up and address any issues in your engine bay, so take advantage of that time while you have it! 😁
2:15 seconds in and we're about to start discussion engine options. I'm placing my bet on 347 stroker. Edit: nice 347!!! I think a couple of weeks ago I commented something about at 347 to you but it may have been one of the three other guys I subscribe to that work on their Mustangs. what oil pan are you going to run on the new block. The 9 quart Canton oil pan I have makes for a really long warm ups. Knowing what I know now I would like to run something a bit smaller.
@@JohnattanRivera1984 Haha, I appreciate that. The down side is the material cost and my time to make it would be more than the cost to buy one off the internet, and then you'd have shipping on top of that, where most of the stands online can be shipped for free. I'd have to make 100 of these to get the down to a realistic level. But again, I appreciate the request. 😀
I'd love to, but this is one of those things that require special tools and equipment. I could do some parts of the rebuild, but this is my first motor build, I'd like it to be done right. :)
It’s all about the $$ and how much is too much. I’ve been doing the same research as you, Andy. But I’ve got a 5 inch wider engine compartment in my 67 Fairlane. Actually, the 5” wider compartment was measured against a 67 Mustang. It might be even wider than the 65/66 Mustang. My engine compartment may be wider but my wallet is not. Blueprint crate engines offers 302 through 427? How can 427 be possible?? Their price doubles from about $8000 for a 408 to $14k for their 427. They call these bigger cu. in. displacements, “Ford small block ‘style’.” Their site states that they are no longer accepting orders for the 427. Maybe that’s more due to supply chain issues rather than the richer Ford enthusiasts?
I'd love to have the extra space, but that too comes at a cost. I believe the 427 they offer is a Stroked 35 as there just isn't enough meat in the block to add 40% more volume to a 302. However, that 427 would be awesome, so much power down low, it would be a blast to drive. :)
The shifter assembly I purchased was from LMR, it's a "SVE Mongoose" model and I love that is has shifter stops so I don't break the shifting lugs in the trans. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. I got my T5 conversion kit from Modern Driveline and may end up buying their shifter. I can't remember from your videos if you still have the Zbar clutch, cable or Hydraulic?? The 80's 302 blocks are no longer machined for the Zbar bushing and a special adapter is available.
@@pauls7751 Nope, ditched the Z-bar in both cars, and went with the Cable Kit option in both. I did switch to the Hydraulic Kit in my last car, but that was because I melted the cable after not following the instructions for certain headers and melted the Clutch Cable. :)
Wheels are American Racing Torque Thrust II, sized 16x7 w/ 4" backspacing - part number VN2156765 Tires are Falken Azenis RT615K+, sized 225/50/16, all four
No advance to running a 347, never seen one go over 30k, 331 much better setup, also figure a set of better heads than those stock 289 heads. I worked on a 289 with the one piece rear main, having to pull the transmission, just why.
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
I got my 347 stroker kit from Coast High Performance 15 years ago. The wrist pin in the oil ring problem was already solved way back then. The kit consisted of a new Crank. Forged Probe pistons and rods, rod and main bearings. I also bought a roller cam and lifters they recommended and a main cap girdle.
They also recommended AFR 185 heads. They estimated 430 hp.
It's been running like a scalded dog for 15 years with no problem.
This is what I want to hear! 15 years out of a 347 sounds fantastic. :)
That's a great way to go. You'll never regret it. I have a 351W in my 65, and it has always fought with me. Maintenance is always a challenge due to the really close quarters.
That's part of the reason why I elected not to do a 351, hopefully everything will go smoothly. :)
Great choice in the 347, I have a one in my 65. Good amount of power for these cars. Can’t wait to watch you through the process. Best of Luck
Thanks!
I've been watching your videos for a while now and you have helped me do the front disc brake conversion and the t5 swap on my fairlane. Thank you for the effort to make the videos for the car peoples.
Awesome! It’s always great to hear that someone can pull some value from my videos. 😁
All I have left to do is to figure out how to actuate the clutch. Unfortunately I don't have the clearance room under the dash to make the cable setup work.
Maybe check out the Hydraulic Clutch Kit from MDL?
@@AndyKruseChannel maybe
Sounds like a plan. I also feel like when you go bigger displacement, not everything has to be radical in its approach. There's an objective cushion for reliability and performance. Well thought out Andy. Fun to watch!
Thanks for the support!
If there’s no oil under it , there’s no oil in it !
Truth!
Good plan Andy. My 66 coupe came with a 302 that someone swapped in at some point. A couple months after I got it I spun a cam bearing...so...time for a rebuild. Went with Edlebrock topend kit, Comp cam and lifters, went .20 over on pistons and .10 under on crank. Engine is sitting on stand waiting for the rest of the car to be finished. Looking forward to your progress.
Broken parts are no fun, but sometimes they allow something better to be installed. Sounds like your new setup is going to be fantastic! :)
I'm in exactly the same position as you with a tired, oil leaking 289. I'm looking forward to the upcoming videos!
Cool, hopefully you'll be able to pull some info from the build to help you decide the path you want to go. :)
Great choice andy 👍
I did a all forged bottom end 347 solid roller early this year and haven't regretted it. Best to find a roller block
Nice 👍
Exciting journey Andy. Looking forward to your updates, thanks
Thanks 👍
I'm where you were at. Thanks for the video. Good luck though I think you're gonna be way satisfied with doing the 347 stroker. I'll be doing my 67 this late winter/spring 2023.
Awesome, good luck with your build!! :)
I'm excited...Looking forward to your new build. Roller cam, alluminum heads...Keep us posted!!
I can't spoil the surprise on the parts. :)
Hey Andy! Troubling shoot leaks etc is an art. After you pulled the motor, you nailed the problem and traced that oil flow down the from the head gasket and down the pan rail back to the rear main seal area. Good patience and good job. Now, having sold my 85 gt hatchback with a built 347, I have to say I loved that build. Over 400 hp N/A, Fast and dependable. Great street motor. I now have the 67 Gt coopay with the monster built 460 in it. Would gladly go back to a small block for room and space and ease of working on a small block. So, all in all, great choice. Can't wait to see the progress steps of the build. Love and blessings to you and yours from Motown/Dearborn. Oh I forgot to say, my 347 was a hydraulic roller motor paired with a 5 speed T-5 and 3:73 gears. Holley 650 Carb.
I might have to do a video on that leaky 289, it would be great to confirm it's problems, just in case someone else has the same issue.
Excited for the 347, time is moving really slow right now. :)
Awesome Andy! That’ll be a fun project!
I’ve got a mystery leak out the back too. Replaced the rear main (last guy left the pin in and installed a rubber seal), did head gaskets, thread sealant on the bolts… everything that the internets recommend. Still leaks. Albeit less now. It’s hard not to feel defeated.
Between the oil burning and leaking, I’m at a quart every fill-up. But hey, after 3000 miles, the oil still looks brand new! …cause…you know…it is.
Hopefully you're able to diagnose the source of the leak, but if you're blasting through a qt every tank of gas, there's a much bigger problem lurking in there. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel oh, I know where the oil is going. It’s being used to perform magic. Every time I pull away from a stoplight, the car behind me mysteriously disappears in a cloud of blue smoke.
She’s DONE IN. But it still gets me to work and back without a complaint or stumble.
Sounds great Andy! Looking forward to more on this! 🏁
Hopefully it will be as awesome as I hope it is. 😀
Did you put loctite on flywheel bolts? Oil can come out of those on some crankshafts. I would check and see if the threads run through into the motor. They don’t on all motors, but is a good habit to put loctite sealer on those bolts. Orange permatex works well and doesn’t need heat to remove. Could explain part of rear main seal leak area. (if the crankshaft bolts go all the way through.) Flywheel is 85 ft lbs. Haynes manual for these cars has good info and leaves tips for where you should put extra gasket maker, etc. Like on the coolant ports around the intake gaskets
Thanks for the heads up.
@@AndyKruseChannel This was the cause of my oil leak, looks like rear main seal and drips right down to it, but it was no locktite on the fly wheel bolts
Sounds very exciting! Good luck, I'm sure you'll keep us posted and I hope you had a great Thanksgiving!
Thank you! You too!
Love it!! Stoked to see the build
Me too!
I replaced the 289 heads with 351Windsor ones in my 66 Mustang. No clearance issues. Big upgrade in performance.
Yeah, letting these motors breathe is one of the secrets to more power since they're so restricted from the factory. :)
jeff david what year 351w heads do you have? did you do any port work on them? I have a pair of 70 351w heads i'm going to put on my 289. Not planning to do any port work and wondering what hp increase will get, if any. Did you also go with higher compression pistons?
@@61chip72 Early stock 351W heads (69-72). Had engine rebuilt at race shop back in 1981. Don't know about port work. Compression @ 9.7:1. You could go higher. Runs fine on todays premium gas. Lots of info online about this head swap.
@@jeffdavid9423 Appreciate the response!
I put a 331 in my 65 based on a roller block from a 98 Explorer. Those extra cubic inches are really nice! I'm curious to find out what you plan on doing for heads in this latest adventure.
The 331 was on the list, but when it came down to it, the 16 cubes were almost free, so it was an easy decision. The heads? Well, I am going to.......
I secretly wish my 69’s 302 was tired too, so I’d have a legit excuse for an engine swap. So I’ll just live vicariously thru you Andy as they say 😊
Do you hear that? I think you're engine is done. Tell your wife that Andy said it's time to pull the engine and rebuild it. :)
Andy I have exactly the same issue in exactly the same places. I have a rear main seal and was thinking of ordering a new oil pan. What has stopped me is that I believe that my oil leak is coming from where the block meets the heads, exactly where you point out. To add to this my 289 is less than thrilling to drive. I am now looking at a fully dressed 302 from Summit. It's 300 HP which a lot better than what I have currently. Most of my driving is mild so 300 HP will be more than fine. Weird that we are seeing the exact same issue. Oil leaks suck. Oh, I know that you put in a 347 Stroker. I think you're happy now.
How does the car feel now?
If it's in the budget, try to swing for a 347, that extra 125HP is a game changer. If that is just too much, see what upgrades you can do the engine (internally) so that you can add power mods done the road and the engine is good for it. However, a fresh 302 will likely be 50% more power than you're making now, so it might be enough.
The car is getting better all the time, slowly dialing in the various pieces to make it all work. :)
Well, typically when you replace the bearings there is a good chance it would burn less oil. Mainly due to the rings no longer banging into any ring ridge. Then replace the valve seals (doable without pulling the heads). Prolly lots of good miles left in it.
There’s a ton of miles left in this block, it’s just not the route I am taking. 😀
That will be an awesome build!!! Good for you!
Thanks 👍
I'm a 331 CI guy just for the little better rod geometry but the 347 are nice! The T5 sounds like you need to add a cluster gear support plate. PM me and I will give you the heads up on it.
I think the 331 might be the better choice if you plan to spend you time in the upper rpm range, but I want some of that lower grunt that the additional displacement offers.
I installed that cluster gear support plate when I rebuilt the trans, but that is a conversation for a later time. :)
Partially inspired by your channel I went out scored a dream car. 1966 mustang fastback, factory gt.
Awesome, I hope yours is in better condition and easier to work on. :)
Hi Andy, my 66 289 is weeping oil around the heads too; I just assumed it was the head gasket. My 289 is also pretty tired and ready to retire. I am thinking I will get a fresh rebuilt 302 (306) with GT-40P heads to replace it. Love the videos.
The fun part about these motors is all the options. I bet that 306 is going to Rock in your car!
How awesome! I word of advice, I have a 347 in my 65 and cooling it was harder with the small 17 inch radiator. Upgraded to the 24 inch radiator and I’ve never had cooling issues. Downside is you’ll have to fab the front end to make it fit.
Also, I went with a T5 just like you but I’m not content. I feel like first gear is useless with my motor. If I had to do it again, I’d go with a 4 speed top loader. Good luck!!
Not sure that the T5 is useless, but likely the gear ratios you have are not ideal. The Top Loader can have different ratios just like the T5. Also, the rear gear in your Third Member can play a role in how short your gearing can be. For example, a 4.11:1 ring gear can make almost any first gear useless in any transmission. Going back to the T5, the unit I have has the shorter first gear than the more common T5s (I believe mine is 3.35:1) and I have thought about replacing it but it will require more than just the gear to do the swap. Anyways, what I'm saying is don't give up on your T5 as that 5th gear really does make it nice when you need to go highway speeds, and synchros are so nice to have once you get used to them. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks! I don’t think the t5 is useless, just maybe first gear as is with stock specs and a 347.
Are you going to keep your stock radiator with the upgrade?
@@raptorjesus99 Yes, there are some upgrades coming. 😉
@@AndyKruseChannel love your videos. Can’t wait! I forgot to mention one thing about the oil leak you found. I had the same issue. Changed rear main seal and to the exact same oil pan gasket one piece and it kept leaking out the back. After changing it twice following ur video, I noticed that the curved ends of the gasket didn’t make a nice seal around the pan. I always had about a time small slack.
I switched to the four piece and the two curved gasket ends sealed up perfectly and my leak is gone.
The other choice is a 351 Windsor engine. Its the same external size as the 289/302 and bolts right onto the trans and engine bay. The other good news is you dont have to deal with the problems if the Cleveland which has a number of issues.
Yeah, making the Cleveland fit in my car is a headache I don't want. :)
I was suggesting the 351 Windsor. The only change from the 302 is a stronger block that is a little taller than the 302. It fits in just fine. I had one in my 1970 mustang, it made great power and no issues with getting it in the engine bay compared to the 302. Now if you go to the 347 or the 351W you’ll need a 9 inch rear end to take the power of either one. Also the trans you have is only rated for 300 ft lbs torque. Not sure it will stand up to either one of these engines making full power.
Looking forward to seeing what you do. I still vote for the Windsor because of the stronger block. Also you can stoke it our to a 383 or a 427 if you wanted. Now that would be a beast. You can buy them from Jegs all done in many different versions and horsepower
👍👍👍
Nice looking forward to the progress. I would’ve recommended prestige motorsports. There 347 long blocks are like $7500
Thanks for the heads up, but I've got a great Engine Shop in my home town. :)
I built a 331 with an Isky cam, Johnson lifters, and AFR 185's. 347 should be nice, roller cam and block is a good choice.
Thanks!
Nice choice, I hope everything goes smoothly 🙏 I'm interested to see what heads you go with 👍
You and me both!
you need the roller cam block with roller rockers, 302 upgraded to 347. 450 horses.
You and I are on the same path brotha!! :)
Really cool to see the direction you are going to take with the engine! A 347 will wake the car up!
Thanks Brotha! I gotta build something to compete with your GTM.
Great video Andy (as usual)! I was hoping you were doing a 347 build :) Looking forward to the next video and thanks for putting out quality content!
Thanks for the support!!
Hey Andy thanks for all of the videos. You have helped me so much. Question have you changed the motor mounts with the engine in? Have searched all over and not many videos charging motor mounts with engine in. I have a 65 coupe with 302 , 4 speed top loader. Thanks again.
Sorry Boss, I have not changed the mounts on any of my classic Mustangs, I just haven't needed to do them yet. However, I do know that getting a stock style mount to fit the early cars can be tricky as I believe they stopped making the early mounts? I don't recall the exact details, but I do recall people having trouble making the mounts they can buy fit. That being said, when I do plan to upgrade/replace the mounts, I will be buying some Ron Morris Motor Mounts. Maybe take a peek at those? :)
Many thanks. I have the mounts from CJs. It looks pretty straight forward just looking for thoughts on supporting the engine from below. Most say just use jack under oil pain with lice of wood. Will give it shot and will let you know
I have a 66 coupe hipo 289 good videos they help me out
Awesome, thanks for the feedback, I hope they continue to help you out. :)
My 289 is tired. Built in the 80s. I am trying to decide the best bang for my buck... I know I have a bunch of options. If you stroke this, do you have to change out the tranny? Anything to the body to assist with the added ponies?
It depends on how extreme you go with the motor build that will determine what you need to do. The power I plan to make will be at the limit of my T5, and even then I might need to keep an eye on things. My 8” rear will likely be the weak link after the motor build. But I should be fine if I don’t do 6k clutch drops. And no chassis changes will be needed for what I’m doing.
Good luck Andy. And happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks! You too!
Hey Andy make sure and put together a good well matched combo that makes decent compression 10 to 1 or better. and a good cam and heads, Not every 347 is created equal ;-).
Get good parts don't be thrifty or cheap on parts ( AFR, trick flow etc....) build it once! and be done. ive had 289s 302s 347s 363s a well built 347 will roast tires all day and be a reliable FUN motor in a 5 spd fastback all day everyday.
I won't give away the goods yet, but this build will not be full of the most expensive parts nor will it be full of Black Friday Deals, if you know what I mean. I have faith in the build and my Engine Builder. :)
That's the best way Live and learn 🔧🐎🚗👊🇺🇸💪
Truth
Excited to see it! I think you said you’re swapping the intake over? Wouldn’t an RPM AirGap make more sense with that displacement?
I would like to do the RPM, but the budget is keeping me with the current intake. But that's ok, it will give me something to upgrade to down the road. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel yes another video! Keep up the great work Andy. I enjoy your channel. A lot of relevant information as I have a 69 Fairlane with 302
@@daveg5018 Thanks for the support Brotha!!
Hi, On my '66 Mustang I've decided to replace my worn out 289 w/ a new BluePrint ford 302 c.i.d. 300 hp dressed engine. Do you have any advice, what do you think of the 302?
That 302 will be a great upgrade over your tired 289. This is one of those times that’s easier to make decisions relative to your build and any future plans you might have. It’s easy to get carried away with upgrading your parts for even more power before you finalize your build, so keeping your budget in mind is solid advice. While your engine is out, it’s a great time to clean up and address any issues in your engine bay, so take advantage of that time while you have it! 😁
2:15 seconds in and we're about to start discussion engine options. I'm placing my bet on 347 stroker.
Edit: nice 347!!! I think a couple of weeks ago I commented something about at 347 to you but it may have been one of the three other guys I subscribe to that work on their Mustangs. what oil pan are you going to run on the new block. The 9 quart Canton oil pan I have makes for a really long warm ups. Knowing what I know now I would like to run something a bit smaller.
7qt Moroso pan, I was able to get a really good deal on one. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Nice That's perfect!
Keep in mind 302 crank is lighter so it will take a 50oz balance not the 28oz
No, we're not using the crank from that 302, all new guts, and sticking with the 28oz imbalance. :)
347... yup...
my 67 has a 19895.0 full roller 347 stroker... worth it
That's what I want to hear! :)
I like the engine stand. Where did you get it?
I made it, from some left over steel bits and some caster wheels from Harbor Freight. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel i would so pay you if you made them for sale
@@JohnattanRivera1984 Haha, I appreciate that. The down side is the material cost and my time to make it would be more than the cost to buy one off the internet, and then you'd have shipping on top of that, where most of the stands online can be shipped for free. I'd have to make 100 of these to get the down to a realistic level. But again, I appreciate the request. 😀
You not going to do yourself Andy? Always wanted to tackle one day myself 💪
I'd love to, but this is one of those things that require special tools and equipment. I could do some parts of the rebuild, but this is my first motor build, I'd like it to be done right. :)
The T5 is not going to be happy with a 347 but don't worry Tremec makes the TKX.
Gives me an excuse to upgrade. Besides, it's the 6k clutch drops that blow up the T5s with more than 300HP.
Power shifting into 3rd broke a lot of them.
It’s all about the $$ and how much is too much. I’ve been doing the same research as you, Andy. But I’ve got a 5 inch wider engine compartment in my 67 Fairlane. Actually, the 5” wider compartment was measured against a 67 Mustang. It might be even wider than the 65/66 Mustang. My engine compartment may be wider but my wallet is not. Blueprint crate engines offers 302 through 427? How can 427 be possible?? Their price doubles from about $8000 for a 408 to $14k for their 427. They call these bigger cu. in. displacements, “Ford small block ‘style’.” Their site states that they are no longer accepting orders for the 427. Maybe that’s more due to supply chain issues rather than the richer Ford enthusiasts?
I'd love to have the extra space, but that too comes at a cost.
I believe the 427 they offer is a Stroked 35 as there just isn't enough meat in the block to add 40% more volume to a 302. However, that 427 would be awesome, so much power down low, it would be a blast to drive. :)
Hey, you will need to upgrade it with a Coyte 5.0 with a standalone ECM. you will have more fun. and you can make more videos
A coyote would be awesome, but not in the budget at this time. :)
Did you add a short throw shifter to your T5? If so what kind?
The shifter assembly I purchased was from LMR, it's a "SVE Mongoose" model and I love that is has shifter stops so I don't break the shifting lugs in the trans. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel thanks. I got my T5 conversion kit from Modern Driveline and may end up buying their shifter.
I can't remember from your videos if you still have the Zbar clutch, cable or Hydraulic??
The 80's 302 blocks are no longer machined for the Zbar bushing and a special adapter is available.
@@pauls7751 Nope, ditched the Z-bar in both cars, and went with the Cable Kit option in both. I did switch to the Hydraulic Kit in my last car, but that was because I melted the cable after not following the instructions for certain headers and melted the Clutch Cable. :)
What kind of rims are on your car
Wheels are American Racing Torque Thrust II, sized 16x7 w/ 4" backspacing - part number VN2156765
Tires are Falken Azenis RT615K+, sized 225/50/16, all four
Great 👍
Thank you 👍
347, I like it!
Me too!
No advance to running a 347, never seen one go over 30k, 331 much better setup, also figure a set of better heads than those stock 289 heads. I worked on a 289 with the one piece rear main, having to pull the transmission, just why.
Cool, so put a 347 in the car, got it.